Your two postings about the subwoofer installation in your SQ5 were invaluable in my selection and installation of the VPSTX12 (shallow version) in my 2018 Q5 with the B&O system. Absolute perfect fit on all fronts. Happy to send you pics of the wiring harness I fabricated, with a factory connector so that no splicing was necessary -- total plug 'n play. One issue I've been having is the absense of signal to the subwoofer every 10 or uses. Cerwin Vega sent me a fix that required installing 47ohm/10 watt resistors across each output channel (left & right channel with the B&O system), which I did and it worked fine . . . so I thought. CV claims the issue is that the smart circuitry in the factory amplifier is looking for a resistance that would be present at all times with a passive speaker and that, absent that resistance, the factory amp self-protects by shutting off output to the subwoofer channel. Wonder if anyone else has experienced this issue.
@@DanielGuzman83 Yes. Still no sound from the sub every 10 or so uses. Need to do a bit of further diagnostics to see if there is a signal from the factory B&O sub channel or if the issue is a faulty sub. When it works, it is superb.
@@DanielGuzman83 I will likely re-connect/re-install the factory sub for a few days to see if the issue persists. If it does, then the problem is with the car's factory amp and not the Cerwin Vega sub. Could be I never noticed it because the factory sub is "ok" but not so obvious if it were episodically not working.
Alright, so I bought the CW normal depth sub for our SQ5 and just did the install based on this video. I'm relatively experienced in DIY auto projects (performance and audio) so figured this would be relatively simple based on this video. If you have the B&O system, there are a few things you have to do that aren't mentioned. 1. The wire splicers that were recommended to tie into the factory sub harness are not perfect. They sit close together and need to be sealed off from each other to prevent feedback. 2. You cannot simply connect the factory harness to the Kicker low line converter and then to the wires from the CW harness as shown in the final diagram. The Kicker that is linked needs to use RCA cables that connect to the RCA female inputs on the CW harness (and do not wire anything to the CW wires in the diagram in this video if you use RCA). 3. The CW blue remote wire will need to be connected. I connected it to the remote wire coming off the Kicker low line converter which finally triggered the sub's amp to power on. 4. I'm also already seeing a semi-frequent "sub does not turn on when the car is turned on" so not sure what I'll be doing, but I imagine I'm going to have to find a true 12v cigarette lighter-esque source to tap into that will be a sure trigger to power the CW internal amp on/off. 5. And finally, I chose to just remove the spare tire altogether. We have AAA and will never use it, and I wanted the 250W RMS version vs the shallow mount which is listed at 150W RMS.
I think you may misunderstand the wiring. The Cerwin Vega has a built in high to low converter. You will not need an external line converter that you are referencing. In addition, the high to low line converter is power sensing. That means when you power on the car with the line converter hooked up, it will take some of the power from the subwoofer lines and turn on the cerwin vega amplifier / subwoofer. Essentially, you do not need to hook up the blue line when you use the built in line converter. I wouldn't necessarily splice the cables in the same spot. as it does get bulky. I usually stagger them down the line a bit. The last note here is that you shouldn't hear any interference. The line run is so minimal, and the alternator is far enough away you shouldn't get any. If you do, it's likely a bad ground and you would need to ground it better. Great job getting the subwoofer going! I just wanted to clarify a few items. for you.
ok... one more response... For the RMS / bass quality. There is a definite issue with all the Audi MMI systems, that bluetooth sounds like crap at high levels. While you may want more power, it definitely has enough power when tuned right. I am going to create a recommended settings video. I would #1 make sure that you are phased properly -- i had to phase the sub 180 to get it to sound better. Second I would make sure your eq on the cerwin vega is about 80 hz. Last if you are using bluetooth- I would turn on the EQ settings as it sounds loads better. I use bass boost on the iPhone. I would also make sure you don't have the Subwoofer setting maxed, and use the gain sparingly on the subwoofer itself. The subwoofer is going to max out on subwoofer output, but a few tweaks will make it sound better.
@@tangentsdailythanks for the clarification. Your links in the description on both of your CW videos include one to the kicker converter. That theoretically makes sense if you don’t already know that the CW does the converting in the built-in amp, which I obviously don’t understand watching this. This will help immensely and I’ll likely just remove the oem connector coming from the oem amp altogether (we’ll have the car for a long time and I’ll just sell the car with the CW whenever that time comes). Thanks for replying @tangentsdaily, you do an awesome service making these videos.
Unfortunately I didn't do a video of the install. Of all the videos That I thought would be popular, I didn't see this one being one of my best ones over the last couple of years. Fail on my part :(
I installed the slim profile version in SQ5 last month. It’s fits perfectly. How is your phase set up since the subwoofer is firing downward in the SQ5 and what’s your subwoofer level set to on the Audi MMI to sound best?
My phase is set to 180 - gain (non-b&o) is set to a little past the “N” in the word gain. Bass boost is set to the first “s” in bass. LOw pass filter is set to the “P” in the LPF. Phase is set to 180.
Thank you for the video! For some weird reason all of the grills on my q5 2012 are labeled bang & Olufsen but the sub has just 2 wires. I took it out and it is not the dual coil one. How can that be? The sub harness doesn’t look like was modify so it is weird. Any thoughts?
I am researching this now. I bought my wife a 22 Audi Q5 Sportback Prestige S-Line Black Optics Package "moth full". It has the B&O 19 speaker 755 watt 3D surround sound which sounds absolutely phenomenal however, I'd not balanced to be bass heavy. Previous Audi vehicles (cars) we have owned in the past with the B&O audio system have not had the 19 speaker cinematic sound quality but, were much more bass heavy. In VWs and other Audis utilizing the spare tire subwoofer I have seen a lot of writings, description of simply replacing the OEM DVC 8 ohm subwoofer with aftermarket ones from Polk, Kicker ect Reporting that the bass was noticeably louder and deeper with just the subwoofer swap. Have you seen any videos, writeups, post about this "swapping the OEM sub for a higher grade aftermarket sub" into the OEM box on an Audi Q5 ? I am not finding anything in searching.I do not want to wire up converters, locs, power wires ect. If the bass was just 20% louder and deeper, I believe it would be a perfect match for what I am looking to achieve.
This is exactly what you are looking for -- HOWEVER -- I would recommend you get the shallow mount version so it sits flush. It just gives a little more depth and sound that the stock system doesnt
@@tangentsdaily so I’m all hooked up but I don’t seem to have it syncing with my stereo volume. It’s basically on full blast no matter what. Tried adjusting the settings on the remote and it’s not making much of a difference. Spliced into the factory harness so my remote wire is not hooked up to anything. Any ideas?
Non b&o i would do the positives + positives and negative + negative of the white and greys on the line in on the speaker. Since it's an input, it will be able to emulate "right / left" channels by sending the same signal to each channel.
So, I followed your advice a little over a year ago and got the slim version installed in my SQ5...Love it, But two days ago it just stopped working and looking at the sub itself, the power light is not lit up...any thoughts or recommendations. I can't figure out if it's a fuse issue ( or which one it would be) or what...just trying to figure out what the heck happened!!
Does anyone have a photo of where you added the power wire for the sub? My battery is pretty wedged in is the best way to access by removing the small panel between the battery and the backseats? Thanks
Thanks for pointing me to this video! This may be the first thing I do when I take delivery of my 19 SQ5 w/ the 19 speaker B&O. Also.. are you in So Cal by any chance?
I noticed in my Audi Q3 stock speaker system there is no subwoofer control in the mmi settings, the older Q3 had it. Like why would they take that away? I suppose it’s because they probably want people to buy the more expensive trim with the Sonos system.. I’m really curious if this can be done in an Audi Q3?
unfortunately they cannot add a subwoofer control in after the fact. However, This system does come with a long cable to run to the front if you want to control the bass on the fly. Thanks for stopping by!
@@tangentsdailySo can this be done in the Audi q3 without having to tap into the head unit in the glove department? I would just splice the existing spare tire sub wire in the boot and connect it via high level to the Cerwin Vega?
I did it at 180. It actually has to do more with the direction of the firing of the woofer. The best way to tell correct phase is the bass will be softer when it is out of phase because a reversed phase it will cancel out the existing bass from the midrange speakers in the doors.
Do you feel this is substantially better than the stock sub ? I have a 2018 SQ5 with the B&O. There is just no depth in the stock - no deep bass IMO. I am on the fence between a small powered sub that I know I will lose trunk space, or give this a go.
If you skip to 1:40 in the video, I go over the surface area of the speakers. While the B&O box says 2x100 -- it is actually dual voice coils in a single 6.5" subwoofer. Where as the Cerwin Vega is 11.3" and 600 watts RMS. Triple the power RMS, and double the surface area of the B&O system. Go with the shallow subwoofer noted in the description and you won't be disappointed. Yes it has way more bass than stock and the depth is absolutely there. I took a bit of time tuning the dials on the bass controller to balance the bass punch and the sound quality. An external subwoofer is not a bad idea, but are trunks are small enough, I just don't see a need to take up more space along with having a subwoofer that slides around... An external subwoofer would also require a line converter, a remote mount amp, and just is less clean than the Cerwin Vega. Don't forget to like and subscribe and thank you for stopping by!
I bought the non amplified version and connected it directly. Bass sounded low, thought it didn’t work. I then installed a kicker key 500.1 and a 12” down fire kicker cvt. Sounded the same as the passive cerwin vega. The tuning helped out a lot. I think this tire sub would sound really good after it’s tuned. If you really want some had bass, I think a whole system overhaul would be the key.
I ended up taking the leap and purchases the CV spare tire sub. I also made sure that I ordered the shorter version and I can tell you it fits perfectly with no rubbing on the foldable cover area in the back. I have played around with the tuning - getting the gain set correctly and the bass boost took some tweaking over a few weeks to get it just right. I can tell you this is a significant difference over the stock B&O subwoofer and added exactly what I was looking for - some deeper, richer bass without the need to revamp my system. For the money, I think this was a great decision.
@@tangentsdaily what is the major difference between shalow and other version. I do see one is 6.5 and another is 4.7 inches and generaly which one do you think is better?
Thank you for posting this! I love the sub and got it off of your recommendation. Wish I got the slim as well. One thing I noticed is that the center collar if you take the bottom grill off in mine, bounces around at times. This causes it to make a metallic rattle noise if not centered just right. Is there any way to fix that or is mine just broken and suppose to be stationary? Thanks for these awesome vids!
I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by that? I don't have that particular issue with my Cerwin Vega. I do have a layer of Dynamat underneath the tire to stop some of the vibrations -- but I never have an issue with the subwoofer mounting vibrating. The factory system does -- however -- have that issue.
so if I have the b&o i can use the prosumer harness with block connector directly to the built-in high to low converter and i don't need anything else?
If you get the prosumer harness with the block connector--- you can connect the built in high to low converter no issues. If you get the Prosumer harness with the RCA's attached, you will need to find a 12v power source for your amp to power on.
You may have an issue with the Cerwin amp not turning on sometimes. I have noticed from time to time, that the sub will not "turn on" even though all the lights are green and the controller is lit up. From my understanding, the CV Input using High Level is 0.9V-12V. That’s not enough to support the B&O amp from cutting out after some start cycles. I haven't put in the Kicker 47KeyLOC, but still may do it
@@matthewdube7802 I noticed this issue, but I actually think I know the reason. When you are on a bluetooth call with the car -- I noticed that it turns off the subwoofer. Perhaps to cancel out the feedback? Essentially, if I started the car, and was on a call as it started, the subwoofer never turned on until I turn off the car, open the door, then start the car again. Maybe an MMI Bug?
@@tangentsdaily good to know. I also have an ODB eleven. I didn't disconnect the battery to install mine. I took it very easy. One step at a time. Prosumer Garage guided me through the set up. That harness was well worth the money. A shop wanted to charge me $300 to install and I was willing to pay but it seemed like he didn't know much about the car and tried to sell me more equipment so I backed off.
Your two postings about the subwoofer installation in your SQ5 were invaluable in my selection and installation of the VPSTX12 (shallow version) in my 2018 Q5 with the B&O system. Absolute perfect fit on all fronts. Happy to send you pics of the wiring harness I fabricated, with a factory connector so that no splicing was necessary -- total plug 'n play. One issue I've been having is the absense of signal to the subwoofer every 10 or uses. Cerwin Vega sent me a fix that required installing 47ohm/10 watt resistors across each output channel (left & right channel with the B&O system), which I did and it worked fine . . . so I thought. CV claims the issue is that the smart circuitry in the factory amplifier is looking for a resistance that would be present at all times with a passive speaker and that, absent that resistance, the factory amp self-protects by shutting off output to the subwoofer channel. Wonder if anyone else has experienced this issue.
Are you still having the issue? I’m installing a newer slim version next week. I’m never installed amps and subs before
@@DanielGuzman83 Yes. Still no sound from the sub every 10 or so uses. Need to do a bit of further diagnostics to see if there is a signal from the factory B&O sub channel or if the issue is a faulty sub. When it works, it is superb.
@@garyfriend3097 is there any way to test another sub? Maybe purchase the same one, if it doesn’t fail, return the old one.
@@DanielGuzman83 I will likely re-connect/re-install the factory sub for a few days to see if the issue persists. If it does, then the problem is with the car's factory amp and not the Cerwin Vega sub. Could be I never noticed it because the factory sub is "ok" but not so obvious if it were episodically not working.
@@DanielGuzman83 If testing concludes the CV sub is faulty, then it can be swapped out under warranty.
Alright, so I bought the CW normal depth sub for our SQ5 and just did the install based on this video. I'm relatively experienced in DIY auto projects (performance and audio) so figured this would be relatively simple based on this video.
If you have the B&O system, there are a few things you have to do that aren't mentioned.
1. The wire splicers that were recommended to tie into the factory sub harness are not perfect. They sit close together and need to be sealed off from each other to prevent feedback.
2. You cannot simply connect the factory harness to the Kicker low line converter and then to the wires from the CW harness as shown in the final diagram. The Kicker that is linked needs to use RCA cables that connect to the RCA female inputs on the CW harness (and do not wire anything to the CW wires in the diagram in this video if you use RCA).
3. The CW blue remote wire will need to be connected. I connected it to the remote wire coming off the Kicker low line converter which finally triggered the sub's amp to power on.
4. I'm also already seeing a semi-frequent "sub does not turn on when the car is turned on" so not sure what I'll be doing, but I imagine I'm going to have to find a true 12v cigarette lighter-esque source to tap into that will be a sure trigger to power the CW internal amp on/off.
5. And finally, I chose to just remove the spare tire altogether. We have AAA and will never use it, and I wanted the 250W RMS version vs the shallow mount which is listed at 150W RMS.
I think you may misunderstand the wiring. The Cerwin Vega has a built in high to low converter. You will not need an external line converter that you are referencing. In addition, the high to low line converter is power sensing. That means when you power on the car with the line converter hooked up, it will take some of the power from the subwoofer lines and turn on the cerwin vega amplifier / subwoofer. Essentially, you do not need to hook up the blue line when you use the built in line converter. I wouldn't necessarily splice the cables in the same spot. as it does get bulky. I usually stagger them down the line a bit. The last note here is that you shouldn't hear any interference. The line run is so minimal, and the alternator is far enough away you shouldn't get any. If you do, it's likely a bad ground and you would need to ground it better. Great job getting the subwoofer going! I just wanted to clarify a few items. for you.
ok... one more response... For the RMS / bass quality. There is a definite issue with all the Audi MMI systems, that bluetooth sounds like crap at high levels. While you may want more power, it definitely has enough power when tuned right. I am going to create a recommended settings video. I would #1 make sure that you are phased properly -- i had to phase the sub 180 to get it to sound better. Second I would make sure your eq on the cerwin vega is about 80 hz. Last if you are using bluetooth- I would turn on the EQ settings as it sounds loads better. I use bass boost on the iPhone. I would also make sure you don't have the Subwoofer setting maxed, and use the gain sparingly on the subwoofer itself. The subwoofer is going to max out on subwoofer output, but a few tweaks will make it sound better.
@@tangentsdailythanks for the clarification. Your links in the description on both of your CW videos include one to the kicker converter. That theoretically makes sense if you don’t already know that the CW does the converting in the built-in amp, which I obviously don’t understand watching this. This will help immensely and I’ll likely just remove the oem connector coming from the oem amp altogether (we’ll have the car for a long time and I’ll just sell the car with the CW whenever that time comes). Thanks for replying @tangentsdaily, you do an awesome service making these videos.
Do you have the actual video of the install? That would be epic!
Unfortunately I didn't do a video of the install. Of all the videos That I thought would be popular, I didn't see this one being one of my best ones over the last couple of years. Fail on my part :(
I installed the slim profile version in SQ5 last month. It’s fits perfectly. How is your phase set up since the subwoofer is firing downward in the SQ5 and what’s your subwoofer level set to on the Audi MMI to sound best?
My phase is set to 180 - gain (non-b&o) is set to a little past the “N” in the word gain. Bass boost is set to the first “s” in bass. LOw pass filter is set to the “P” in the LPF. Phase is set to 180.
does this set up work for the B8.5 2017 SQ5? Thanks!
Thank you for the video! For some weird reason all of the grills on my q5 2012 are labeled bang & Olufsen but the sub has just 2 wires. I took it out and it is not the dual coil one. How can that be?
The sub harness doesn’t look like was modify so it is weird.
Any thoughts?
I am researching this now. I bought my wife a 22 Audi Q5 Sportback Prestige S-Line Black Optics Package "moth full". It has the B&O 19 speaker 755 watt 3D surround sound which sounds absolutely phenomenal however, I'd not balanced to be bass heavy. Previous Audi vehicles (cars) we have owned in the past with the B&O audio system have not had the 19 speaker cinematic sound quality but, were much more bass heavy.
In VWs and other Audis utilizing the spare tire subwoofer I have seen a lot of writings, description of simply replacing the OEM DVC 8 ohm subwoofer with aftermarket ones from Polk, Kicker ect Reporting that the bass was noticeably louder and deeper with just the subwoofer swap.
Have you seen any videos, writeups, post about this "swapping the OEM sub for a higher grade aftermarket sub" into the OEM box on an Audi Q5 ?
I am not finding anything in searching.I do not want to wire up converters, locs, power wires ect. If the bass was just 20% louder and deeper, I believe it would be a perfect match for what I am looking to achieve.
This is exactly what you are looking for -- HOWEVER -- I would recommend you get the shallow mount version so it sits flush. It just gives a little more depth and sound that the stock system doesnt
Awesome info! Placing my order for my 18 q5 now. Thanks!
What’re you thoughts on adding sound dampening material around the setup on the trunk base? Underneath the floor cover too?
Very Cool! You won't regret it!
@@tangentsdaily thanks for the response! You mind giving me your input on my other comment I posted on this thread?
@@tangentsdaily so I’m all hooked up but I don’t seem to have it syncing with my stereo volume. It’s basically on full blast no matter what. Tried adjusting the settings on the remote and it’s not making much of a difference. Spliced into the factory harness so my remote wire is not hooked up to anything. Any ideas?
Sorry if I missed this but on the non-B&O system what is the best way to join the wires from the sub together before using the quick splices?
Non b&o i would do the positives + positives and negative + negative of the white and greys on the line in on the speaker. Since it's an input, it will be able to emulate "right / left" channels by sending the same signal to each channel.
So, I followed your advice a little over a year ago and got the slim version installed in my SQ5...Love it, But two days ago it just stopped working and looking at the sub itself, the power light is not lit up...any thoughts or recommendations. I can't figure out if it's a fuse issue ( or which one it would be) or what...just trying to figure out what the heck happened!!
Does anyone have a photo of where you added the power wire for the sub? My battery is pretty wedged in is the best way to access by removing the small panel between the battery and the backseats? Thanks
I made a small slit in the foam retainer between the battery and the spare tire. I'll see if I have a picture of it and reply if i find it.
How did you connect the 8 gauge power wire to the harness power wire?
Thanks for pointing me to this video! This may be the first thing I do when I take delivery of my 19 SQ5 w/ the 19 speaker B&O. Also.. are you in So Cal by any chance?
I am not but always feel to ping me. I’d be happy to setup a video call to answer any questions you have!
I noticed in my Audi Q3 stock speaker system there is no subwoofer control in the mmi settings, the older Q3 had it. Like why would they take that away? I suppose it’s because they probably want people to buy the more expensive trim with the Sonos system.. I’m really curious if this can be done in an Audi Q3?
unfortunately they cannot add a subwoofer control in after the fact. However, This system does come with a long cable to run to the front if you want to control the bass on the fly. Thanks for stopping by!
@@tangentsdailySo can this be done in the Audi q3 without having to tap into the head unit in the glove department? I would just splice the existing spare tire sub wire in the boot and connect it via high level to the Cerwin Vega?
Can anyone suggest what Phase to set the CV controls for on the SQ5 with B&O system ?
I did it at 180. It actually has to do more with the direction of the firing of the woofer. The best way to tell correct phase is the bass will be softer when it is out of phase because a reversed phase it will cancel out the existing bass from the midrange speakers in the doors.
Great video, Cerwin Vega is on the way! My 2019 Q5 does have a 12V outlet in the trunk. Any tips for splicing into that line to power the sub?
Do you feel this is substantially better than the stock sub ? I have a 2018 SQ5 with the B&O. There is just no depth in the stock - no deep bass IMO. I am on the fence between a small powered sub that I know I will lose trunk space, or give this a go.
If you skip to 1:40 in the video, I go over the surface area of the speakers. While the B&O box says 2x100 -- it is actually dual voice coils in a single 6.5" subwoofer. Where as the Cerwin Vega is 11.3" and 600 watts RMS. Triple the power RMS, and double the surface area of the B&O system. Go with the shallow subwoofer noted in the description and you won't be disappointed. Yes it has way more bass than stock and the depth is absolutely there. I took a bit of time tuning the dials on the bass controller to balance the bass punch and the sound quality. An external subwoofer is not a bad idea, but are trunks are small enough, I just don't see a need to take up more space along with having a subwoofer that slides around... An external subwoofer would also require a line converter, a remote mount amp, and just is less clean than the Cerwin Vega. Don't forget to like and subscribe and thank you for stopping by!
I bought the non amplified version and connected it directly. Bass sounded low, thought it didn’t work. I then installed a kicker key 500.1 and a 12” down fire kicker cvt. Sounded the same as the passive cerwin vega. The tuning helped out a lot. I think this tire sub would sound really good after it’s tuned. If you really want some had bass, I think a whole system overhaul would be the key.
I ended up taking the leap and purchases the CV spare tire sub. I also made sure that I ordered the shorter version and I can tell you it fits perfectly with no rubbing on the foldable cover area in the back. I have played around with the tuning - getting the gain set correctly and the bass boost took some tweaking over a few weeks to get it just right. I can tell you this is a significant difference over the stock B&O subwoofer and added exactly what I was looking for - some deeper, richer bass without the need to revamp my system. For the money, I think this was a great decision.
@@mdube72 nice!! I love my set up but now I'm struggling to fit the baby stroller. At least my kids will enjoy Baby Shark at full bass.
@@tangentsdaily what is the major difference between shalow and other version. I do see one is 6.5 and another is 4.7 inches and generaly which one do you think is better?
Thank you for posting this! I love the sub and got it off of your recommendation. Wish I got the slim as well. One thing I noticed is that the center collar if you take the bottom grill off in mine, bounces around at times. This causes it to make a metallic rattle noise if not centered just right. Is there any way to fix that or is mine just broken and suppose to be stationary? Thanks for these awesome vids!
I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by that? I don't have that particular issue with my Cerwin Vega. I do have a layer of Dynamat underneath the tire to stop some of the vibrations -- but I never have an issue with the subwoofer mounting vibrating. The factory system does -- however -- have that issue.
Is there a performance difference with the slim version? any downside to choosing it over the full-sized one?
From my understanding it should be relatively the same since it is an open design.
so if I have the b&o i can use the prosumer harness with block connector directly to the built-in high to low converter and i don't need anything else?
If you get the prosumer harness with the block connector--- you can connect the built in high to low converter no issues. If you get the Prosumer harness with the RCA's attached, you will need to find a 12v power source for your amp to power on.
You may have an issue with the Cerwin amp not turning on sometimes. I have noticed from time to time, that the sub will not "turn on" even though all the lights are green and the controller is lit up. From my understanding, the CV Input using High Level is 0.9V-12V. That’s not enough to support the B&O amp from cutting out after some start cycles. I haven't put in the Kicker 47KeyLOC, but still may do it
@@matthewdube7802 I noticed this issue, but I actually think I know the reason. When you are on a bluetooth call with the car -- I noticed that it turns off the subwoofer. Perhaps to cancel out the feedback? Essentially, if I started the car, and was on a call as it started, the subwoofer never turned on until I turn off the car, open the door, then start the car again. Maybe an MMI Bug?
what size is the oem driver for the NON B&O subwoofer?
6.5 inches. Thanks for stopping by
Did disconnecting the battery mess anything up? Did anything reset?
Not with my experience. I do have a ODB Eleven if I needed to reset anything as a backup.
@@tangentsdaily good to know. I also have an ODB eleven. I didn't disconnect the battery to install mine. I took it very easy. One step at a time. Prosumer Garage guided me through the set up. That harness was well worth the money. A shop wanted to charge me $300 to install and I was willing to pay but it seemed like he didn't know much about the car and tried to sell me more equipment so I backed off.
@@tangentsdaily I also watched both videos like twice a day for two weeks before installing, haha
@@DanielGuzman83 That's awesome! I appreciate the support!
What Fuse (amperage)did you use?
I believe it was a 20 in the factory amp wiring harness.