Agreed. I cant tell how hard my front PYLE PLG6C hit with a PLG64 in the back left door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in the back right door anymore. Because the rear speakers hit so hard and drown out the fronts. Its like theres a concert in the back seats and I might be picking up some of it in the front. All running on a Dual XPR84D. But Im happy with the max loudness of the speakers VS the pre amp on an aboutbit single DIN deck. Because an Aboutbit head unit will cast over bluetooth even tho the built in preamp is a joke and I got the chinese sound insulation in all the doors.
yeah these hit for mids and bass and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker helps balance everything out in the treble notes. I got in my friends Toyota prius and hes like you want me to put on Mike Jones and Paul Wall? and I swear he had a 2 inch speaker running solo somewhere in his dash. No hate. but it really showed the contrast of the situation enough to make me appreciate the sound quality Ive grown accustomed to.
Yeah wattage matters. Your speakers should have a RMS and peak rating. Read that. Then dont feed it over that or you cook the coil and blow the cones. You can set up an amplifier that is over the ratings with the gain knob by ear. Just turn the head unit volume up 2/3 or even 3/3. with your gain and bass boost knobs on the amp low. Then slowly turn up the gain and bass boost on the amp until you either hear clipping and distortion then back off a little. Or the volume is sufficient for your listening needs. Setting it up this way avoids blowing your speakers or ear drums accidentally with the head unit knobs. If youre getting distortion and clipping on your speakers and the volume isnt loud enough by ear you've reached your speakers limits and your speakers are your bottle neck. Reference your amp watts and RMS/peak listed on the speaker to verify the bottleneck. For instance, I have a 500 watt RMS, 8 ohm cabinet with 4 10 inch speakers. The RMS is right there on the cabinet. and an amp that produces a max of 340 watts at 8 ohms. Theres no way to blow up the speakers in normal operation according to the labels. Im still careful with the volume knob, because. Because the factory might be lying or turning the volume up too much can introduce distortion clipping or blown ear drums. This example is with bass guitar amplifiers and speakers and not car audio. But same thing. Think of the cars speakers as the cabinet. The head unit as the guitar and the car audio amplifier as the amp board. The Gain functions or associated knobs is like your set it and forget it volume controls. over Volume translates directly to over current, pretty much.Thats why you can set up by ear. If youre asking how much watts for the amp? I got a 2channel 200watt tiny amp. thats 100 watt per channel if the factory isnt lying (they probably are and over stating watts) hooked up to 2 speaker cabinets rated 60 watt(peak) This fills up my living room with volume. But volume is subjective. BACK TO CARS: I got 1000watt 4 channel car amp. thats 250 watts per channel feeding 4 6 inch speakers. Gain knob is set to 10%. My speakers obviously bottle neck into distortion blowing and clipping. But subjectively the volume is loud enough with that set up. 10% of 1000 is 100. So technically, if that math works I could be feeding it from a 4 channel 100 watt. 25 watts per speaker and maxxing out the amp. Probably not good. I'd only run an amp at 75% to sustain its life. But if a 4 channel 100 watt was available for cheaper maybe thats the right call financially. IE 1000Watt 4 channel amp is highly over rated with alot of head room for 4 6 inchers with their current RMS ratings. But I was looking for a 4 channel. "PYLE PLG64 300 watts @ 4ohm" Because bass needs more watts and this cone leans toward bass, my current settings listed above it doesnt clip or distort. Im probably feeding it 25 watts tho. That speaker is not the bottle neck. All 4 doors speakers dont match. The 250 watt loudspeaker will start to clip in my set up. But the loudspeaker is like a guitar speaker that needs less watts. Here I dont care because Ive reached my maximum subjective listening volume settings without ditching the bottleneck of the loud speaker in the other rear door. Beyond the constraint of having a door that accepts 6 inches without modifications. the PYLE PLG6C component in my front doors are the lowest in volume speakers. While the PLG64 in my rear driver door gives bass frequency the loudest and the Rear right DS18 loudspeaker in the rear passenger door fills out the higher frequencies, like voice or guitar. Out of all of these the DS18 is the loudest but is the first to clip and distort creating a bottle neck of sending the other 3 louder. Also I dont consider my 4 door setup a pro audio solution as the engineers at VW can balance that out alot better in 2024 with a stock upgrade.. Its just alot better than a stock subaru 98.
you got the positive on the positive lead and negative on the negative? can you test the coil with an ohm meter? as it might be a defective coil or a bad solder joint and the speaker has no continuity, is defective and or blown. If youre in a car try opening the door and attempt to listen outside of the car at the door for any speaker noise with the speaker isolated like this, since its possible your other speakers are drowning a working speaker out and its just not hitting as hard and/or this speaker is pretty base heavy and doesnt produce other noise midrange and treble as loud. Also it might be a loose connection so test the signal entering the speaker by measuring the AC voltage on the speaker wire with music playing to confirm a signal is even reaching your speaker (if not trace it back to a loose plug or wire somewhere like your amp or head unit) then make sure theres a solid connection between the speaker's connections and the wires connectors. Sometimes its loose and you might have to squeeze the female side of the plug on the wire down with a pair of needle nose pliars to get a firm stable connection on the speaker terminals. Im no expert but this would be my work flow to try to troubleshoot this. Especially if its the whole right or left side of a car not working. Which would indicate a loose plug somewhere and no signal to the speakers. Also if you got a poly cone like a PYLE PLG6C component set. Those are pretty weak and you would suspect they are not working at all on how low volume they are. I made the same mistake determining the PLG64 is a winner and assumed the PLG6C should hit and was not impressed at all. The only recourse is to trash them and replace them or try to balance them with the better speakers over the head unit or amp. They obviously cut corners and the corner they cut was speaker quality in their component sets to get their price point that low. Which definitely reveals itself if you have any good speaker in your set up. I have the PLG64 in one rear door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in my other rear door and, even though its in my front doors..so closer to me, the PLG6C components are pretty trash. Still way better than a stock set up. But I dont like having to balance Front and Rear on my head unit, because it obviously reveals my front 6" mains are leaving something to be desired there. Also send me the partreon donation so I may buy the charcoal briquettes making machine from Thailand.
@@Louzahsol Yeah that means your coils not blown and theres no short circuit from a bad solder joint. have you looked for the line signal with a multimeter set to A/C voltage and the stereo head unit sending a signal at higher volume? You should see weird spikes of A/C power if your speakers are receiving a signal. If you got a 9 volt battery you can tap it onto the leads of the speaker and see if the cone goes up and down. But its dangerous as it could blow the speaker. as it needs only a little tap and usually best to use a pretty drained 9 volt.
@@keneilbryan1617 I dunno I haven't tried them. I installed Pyle PLG6C's in the front doors. I dont recommend those speakers. Theyre bass heavy and muffled. Then Installed an amp. Blew out the right back doors stock speaker and replaced that with a DS18 loudspeaker in that door to try and counterbalance everything being a bit bassey. None of that is plug and play. Everything had to be modified on the install. The DS18 had some issues with vibrating on the bass tones but I went back in and I think it was vibrating on the doors speaker enclosure. The vibrating issue seems to be fixed and the system sounds fuller now. I also put door sound deadener(the cheap stuff) on the inner metal door shells. That was good bang for the buck as far as reducing vibration noise increasing sound fullness and brightness and reducing road noise in the interior. If I had to do it again I would have avoided the PLG6C's component set, the quality of those speakers are pretty junk and the fact its a component set doesnt outweigh the speakers quality. Overall that system is decent and I dont expect to upgrade the front PLG6C's, Since Im afraid 1 DS18 and 1 of these pyle mid woofers would create an imbalance, Im not sure what I would upgrade them to and speaker system seems to be ok this way. But the front PLG6C components are definitely the weak links in the chain now.
Can't imagine what would be more ignorant than putting a bass speaker in a door, especially in a cheap little Japanese car is going to Rattle like no tomorrow
I have sound deadening foam in the doors and its a mid bass not a sub bass woofer. You get distortion before you get rattle. And Japanese cars arent cheap. Youre just talking man. Youre just talking. I dont want or need sub bass rattle.
@@gsrjaycee4521 I like them. They seem like they slap mid bass for the value, as long as theyre not the plastic cones. I got the plastic cones in my front doors and Im not replacing them but im not impressed either.
These speakers hit. I just ordered skar 6.5s and I sent them back n stuck with the same pyles I put in my wife’s car
Agreed. I cant tell how hard my front PYLE PLG6C hit with a PLG64 in the back left door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in the back right door anymore. Because the rear speakers hit so hard and drown out the fronts. Its like theres a concert in the back seats and I might be picking up some of it in the front. All running on a Dual XPR84D. But Im happy with the max loudness of the speakers VS the pre amp on an aboutbit single DIN deck. Because an Aboutbit head unit will cast over bluetooth even tho the built in preamp is a joke and I got the chinese sound insulation in all the doors.
yeah these hit for mids and bass and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker helps balance everything out in the treble notes. I got in my friends Toyota prius and hes like you want me to put on Mike Jones and Paul Wall? and I swear he had a 2 inch speaker running solo somewhere in his dash. No hate. but it really showed the contrast of the situation enough to make me appreciate the sound quality Ive grown accustomed to.
Does wattage matter for cars like is 600 total to much
Yeah wattage matters. Your speakers should have a RMS and peak rating. Read that. Then dont feed it over that or you cook the coil and blow the cones. You can set up an amplifier that is over the ratings with the gain knob by ear. Just turn the head unit volume up 2/3 or even 3/3. with your gain and bass boost knobs on the amp low. Then slowly turn up the gain and bass boost on the amp until you either hear clipping and distortion then back off a little. Or the volume is sufficient for your listening needs. Setting it up this way avoids blowing your speakers or ear drums accidentally with the head unit knobs. If youre getting distortion and clipping on your speakers and the volume isnt loud enough by ear you've reached your speakers limits and your speakers are your bottle neck. Reference your amp watts and RMS/peak listed on the speaker to verify the bottleneck.
For instance, I have a 500 watt RMS, 8 ohm cabinet with 4 10 inch speakers. The RMS is right there on the cabinet. and an amp that produces a max of 340 watts at 8 ohms. Theres no way to blow up the speakers in normal operation according to the labels. Im still careful with the volume knob, because. Because the factory might be lying or turning the volume up too much can introduce distortion clipping or blown ear drums. This example is with bass guitar amplifiers and speakers and not car audio. But same thing. Think of the cars speakers as the cabinet. The head unit as the guitar and the car audio amplifier as the amp board. The Gain functions or associated knobs is like your set it and forget it volume controls. over Volume translates directly to over current, pretty much.Thats why you can set up by ear.
If youre asking how much watts for the amp? I got a 2channel 200watt tiny amp. thats 100 watt per channel if the factory isnt lying (they probably are and over stating watts) hooked up to 2 speaker cabinets rated 60 watt(peak) This fills up my living room with volume. But volume is subjective.
BACK TO CARS: I got 1000watt 4 channel car amp. thats 250 watts per channel feeding 4 6 inch speakers. Gain knob is set to 10%. My speakers obviously bottle neck into distortion blowing and clipping. But subjectively the volume is loud enough with that set up. 10% of 1000 is 100. So technically, if that math works I could be feeding it from a 4 channel 100 watt. 25 watts per speaker and maxxing out the amp. Probably not good. I'd only run an amp at 75% to sustain its life. But if a 4 channel 100 watt was available for cheaper maybe thats the right call financially. IE 1000Watt 4 channel amp is highly over rated with alot of head room for 4 6 inchers with their current RMS ratings. But I was looking for a 4 channel.
"PYLE PLG64 300 watts @ 4ohm" Because bass needs more watts and this cone leans toward bass, my current settings listed above it doesnt clip or distort. Im probably feeding it 25 watts tho. That speaker is not the bottle neck. All 4 doors speakers dont match. The 250 watt loudspeaker will start to clip in my set up. But the loudspeaker is like a guitar speaker that needs less watts. Here I dont care because Ive reached my maximum subjective listening volume settings without ditching the bottleneck of the loud speaker in the other rear door. Beyond the constraint of having a door that accepts 6 inches without modifications.
the PYLE PLG6C component in my front doors are the lowest in volume speakers. While the PLG64 in my rear driver door gives bass frequency the loudest and the Rear right DS18 loudspeaker in the rear passenger door fills out the higher frequencies, like voice or guitar. Out of all of these the DS18 is the loudest but is the first to clip and distort creating a bottle neck of sending the other 3 louder.
Also I dont consider my 4 door setup a pro audio solution as the engineers at VW can balance that out alot better in 2024 with a stock upgrade.. Its just alot better than a stock subaru 98.
I give this video a 2/10 for the weird music selection. 😂
Do you need an amp for these mids?
No, you dont need one. But I have an amp because the head units driver is not loud on any speaker. Thats a head unit problem, not a speaker problem.
I have a set of these and I cannot get them to work
you got the positive on the positive lead and negative on the negative? can you test the coil with an ohm meter? as it might be a defective coil or a bad solder joint and the speaker has no continuity, is defective and or blown. If youre in a car try opening the door and attempt to listen outside of the car at the door for any speaker noise with the speaker isolated like this, since its possible your other speakers are drowning a working speaker out and its just not hitting as hard and/or this speaker is pretty base heavy and doesnt produce other noise midrange and treble as loud. Also it might be a loose connection so test the signal entering the speaker by measuring the AC voltage on the speaker wire with music playing to confirm a signal is even reaching your speaker (if not trace it back to a loose plug or wire somewhere like your amp or head unit) then make sure theres a solid connection between the speaker's connections and the wires connectors. Sometimes its loose and you might have to squeeze the female side of the plug on the wire down with a pair of needle nose pliars to get a firm stable connection on the speaker terminals.
Im no expert but this would be my work flow to try to troubleshoot this. Especially if its the whole right or left side of a car not working. Which would indicate a loose plug somewhere and no signal to the speakers.
Also if you got a poly cone like a PYLE PLG6C component set. Those are pretty weak and you would suspect they are not working at all on how low volume they are. I made the same mistake determining the PLG64 is a winner and assumed the PLG6C should hit and was not impressed at all. The only recourse is to trash them and replace them or try to balance them with the better speakers over the head unit or amp. They obviously cut corners and the corner they cut was speaker quality in their component sets to get their price point that low. Which definitely reveals itself if you have any good speaker in your set up. I have the PLG64 in one rear door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in my other rear door and, even though its in my front doors..so closer to me, the PLG6C components are pretty trash. Still way better than a stock set up. But I dont like having to balance Front and Rear on my head unit, because it obviously reveals my front 6" mains are leaving something to be desired there.
Also send me the partreon donation so I may buy the charcoal briquettes making machine from Thailand.
@@gantz4u my guess is that they are dead out of the box. At this point I’m ready to go get a set of coaxial speakers and call it a day
@@Louzahsol yeah send them back I bet they have a good return policy. theyll figure out if they work or not.
@@gantz4u I ended up testing them and they are 4.5ohm so I’m not sure why I have no sound
@@Louzahsol Yeah that means your coils not blown and theres no short circuit from a bad solder joint. have you looked for the line signal with a multimeter set to A/C voltage and the stereo head unit sending a signal at higher volume? You should see weird spikes of A/C power if your speakers are receiving a signal. If you got a 9 volt battery you can tap it onto the leads of the speaker and see if the cone goes up and down. But its dangerous as it could blow the speaker. as it needs only a little tap and usually best to use a pretty drained 9 volt.
Oh dear
Wut? You gotta make whole sentences.
Dude what? That song
Venetian snares Milk (knifehandchop Mix)
Bruuuh. What is that song
Venetian snares Milk (knifehandchop Mix)
Dose this speaker hit better than the pyramid 6.5 speakers?
@@keneilbryan1617 I dunno I haven't tried them. I installed Pyle PLG6C's in the front doors. I dont recommend those speakers. Theyre bass heavy and muffled. Then Installed an amp. Blew out the right back doors stock speaker and replaced that with a DS18 loudspeaker in that door to try and counterbalance everything being a bit bassey. None of that is plug and play. Everything had to be modified on the install. The DS18 had some issues with vibrating on the bass tones but I went back in and I think it was vibrating on the doors speaker enclosure. The vibrating issue seems to be fixed and the system sounds fuller now. I also put door sound deadener(the cheap stuff) on the inner metal door shells. That was good bang for the buck as far as reducing vibration noise increasing sound fullness and brightness and reducing road noise in the interior. If I had to do it again I would have avoided the PLG6C's component set, the quality of those speakers are pretty junk and the fact its a component set doesnt outweigh the speakers quality. Overall that system is decent and I dont expect to upgrade the front PLG6C's, Since Im afraid 1 DS18 and 1 of these pyle mid woofers would create an imbalance, Im not sure what I would upgrade them to and speaker system seems to be ok this way. But the front PLG6C components are definitely the weak links in the chain now.
@@keneilbryan1617speakers don't HIT.
Can't imagine what would be more ignorant than putting a bass speaker in a door, especially in a cheap little Japanese car is going to Rattle like no tomorrow
I have sound deadening foam in the doors and its a mid bass not a sub bass woofer. You get distortion before you get rattle. And Japanese cars arent cheap. Youre just talking man. Youre just talking. I dont want or need sub bass rattle.
@@gantz4uI just ordered a pair for my 07 TL type s and using stock radio and stock amp installing on front door I need some low-key personal bass 😂
@@gsrjaycee4521 I like them. They seem like they slap mid bass for the value, as long as theyre not the plastic cones. I got the plastic cones in my front doors and Im not replacing them but im not impressed either.