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Yeah wattage matters. Your speakers should have a RMS and peak rating. Read that. Then dont feed it over that or you cook the coil and blow the cones. You can set up an amplifier that is over the ratings with the gain knob by ear. Just turn the head unit volume up 2/3 or even 3/3. with your gain and bass boost knobs on the amp low. Then slowly turn up the gain and bass boost on the amp until you either hear clipping and distortion then back off a little. Or the volume is sufficient for your listening needs. Setting it up this way avoids blowing your speakers or ear drums accidentally with the head unit knobs. If youre getting distortion and clipping on your speakers and the volume isnt loud enough by ear you've reached your speakers limits and your speakers are your bottle neck. Reference your amp watts and RMS/peak listed on the speaker to verify the bottleneck. For instance, I have a 500 watt RMS, 8 ohm cabinet with 4 10 inch speakers. The RMS is right there on the cabinet. and an amp that produces a max of 340 watts at 8 ohms. Theres no way to blow up the speakers in normal operation according to the labels. Im still careful with the volume knob, because. Because the factory might be lying or turning the volume up too much can introduce distortion clipping or blown ear drums. This example is with bass guitar amplifiers and speakers and not car audio. But same thing. Think of the cars speakers as the cabinet. The head unit as the guitar and the car audio amplifier as the amp board. The Gain functions or associated knobs is like your set it and forget it volume controls. over Volume translates directly to over current, pretty much.Thats why you can set up by ear. If youre asking how much watts for the amp? I got a 2channel 200watt tiny amp. thats 100 watt per channel if the factory isnt lying (they probably are and over stating watts) hooked up to 2 speaker cabinets rated 60 watt(peak) This fills up my living room with volume. But volume is subjective. BACK TO CARS: I got 1000watt 4 channel car amp. thats 250 watts per channel feeding 4 6 inch speakers. Gain knob is set to 10%. My speakers obviously bottle neck into distortion blowing and clipping. But subjectively the volume is loud enough with that set up. 10% of 1000 is 100. So technically, if that math works I could be feeding it from a 4 channel 100 watt. 25 watts per speaker and maxxing out the amp. Probably not good. I'd only run an amp at 75% to sustain its life. But if a 4 channel 100 watt was available for cheaper maybe thats the right call financially. IE 1000Watt 4 channel amp is highly over rated with alot of head room for 4 6 inchers with their current RMS ratings. But I was looking for a 4 channel. "PYLE PLG64 300 watts @ 4ohm" Because bass needs more watts and this cone leans toward bass, my current settings listed above it doesnt clip or distort. Im probably feeding it 25 watts tho. That speaker is not the bottle neck. All 4 doors speakers dont match. The 250 watt loudspeaker will start to clip in my set up. But the loudspeaker is like a guitar speaker that needs less watts. Here I dont care because Ive reached my maximum subjective listening volume settings without ditching the bottleneck of the loud speaker in the other rear door. Beyond the constraint of having a door that accepts 6 inches without modifications. the PYLE PLG6C component in my front doors are the lowest in volume speakers. While the PLG64 in my rear driver door gives bass frequency the loudest and the Rear right DS18 loudspeaker in the rear passenger door fills out the higher frequencies, like voice or guitar. Out of all of these the DS18 is the loudest but is the first to clip and distort creating a bottle neck of sending the other 3 louder. Also I dont consider my 4 door setup a pro audio solution as the engineers at VW can balance that out alot better in 2024 with a stock upgrade.. Its just alot better than a stock subaru 98.

thanks

No, you dont need one. But I have an amp because the head units driver is not loud on any speaker. Thats a head unit problem, not a speaker problem.

Yeah, the feet installed are for outdoor, tent and vehicle use. I just suspend the whole thing from a large carabiner with a chain, from the carry handle for indoor use. Inside the box the pump is mounted at the proper angle, but im sure there's a few degrees of lee way on angle before the pump would just immediately seize. Imagine you placed this on a tail gate. It would start cooking your tailgate bed plastic. BOOM feet. I like the box. I think it makes it more portable and versatile. But for a permanent install I think the uncased design is the way to go. Mine was the same price no matter what design so I figured Id go box and if I dont like it. When you throw away their box it turns into the kit design. Turns out I like the transferability of their box from use case to use case. Carabiner eyehook and chain gets it up off the ground. Then it goes through a open window while the unit hovers in mid air. The window gets blocked off by a custom horizontal stove jack I made(for exhaust vent) out of a piece of cement board and sealed for drafts with foil HVAC tape. That way its non permanent and keeps it mobile for in house use. So I can pop it in and out and remove the stove jack from the exhaust tubing to get it out for going mobile. My use cases are: for when Im cold, in a car inna tent inna house where they dun goofed and the power has failed for the next week. Since I have 600 watt hour battery pack with a tap from the buck converter I tie this thing in for 12 volt DC off an XT60 connector. It splits there and feeds the 12volt DC to both the XT60 connector, thus Diesel Heater, Then to a power inverter to flip it to 120AC where I can charge a phone run a light bulb etc. The battery can swap out for an additional 600WH. So I got 1.2 KWH man portable with heat. Other option is a 350watt electrical porcelain element. Naw dog. Not only does that spike to some nominal voltage for start up. Theres no hours there and produces no heat. It might be good for warming your hands on a toilet but Electrical is not efficient for heat. Theres no way you can carry that much battery on you. Also, since thats how you deliver it 12volt DC in that electrical schematic. In house youre trying to run it off the 120AC. So I just leave the battery charger connected to the battery and thus the battery and inverter are just in line to how I give it its 12 volts off the 120 Mains and have a battery capacity monitor I wired into the battery to monitor battery status. Battery gets changed out to spare batteries off a XT60 Whip prior to entering any of that setup.

that would seem to be how it works on paper but still no soap.

See Potassium Carbonate to Potassium Hydroxide for Ryan Hulbert @@gantz4u

I have sound deadening foam in the doors and its a mid bass not a sub bass woofer. You get distortion before you get rattle. And Japanese cars arent cheap. Youre just talking man. Youre just talking. I dont want or need sub bass rattle.

​​@@gantz4uI just ordered a pair for my 07 TL type s and using stock radio and stock amp installing on front door I need some low-key personal bass 😂

@@gsrjaycee4521 I like them. They seem like they slap mid bass for the value, as long as theyre not the plastic cones. I got the plastic cones in my front doors and Im not replacing them but im not impressed either.

you got the positive on the positive lead and negative on the negative? can you test the coil with an ohm meter? as it might be a defective coil or a bad solder joint and the speaker has no continuity, is defective and or blown. If youre in a car try opening the door and attempt to listen outside of the car at the door for any speaker noise with the speaker isolated like this, since its possible your other speakers are drowning a working speaker out and its just not hitting as hard and/or this speaker is pretty base heavy and doesnt produce other noise midrange and treble as loud. Also it might be a loose connection so test the signal entering the speaker by measuring the AC voltage on the speaker wire with music playing to confirm a signal is even reaching your speaker (if not trace it back to a loose plug or wire somewhere like your amp or head unit) then make sure theres a solid connection between the speaker's connections and the wires connectors. Sometimes its loose and you might have to squeeze the female side of the plug on the wire down with a pair of needle nose pliars to get a firm stable connection on the speaker terminals. Im no expert but this would be my work flow to try to troubleshoot this. Especially if its the whole right or left side of a car not working. Which would indicate a loose plug somewhere and no signal to the speakers. Also if you got a poly cone like a PYLE PLG6C component set. Those are pretty weak and you would suspect they are not working at all on how low volume they are. I made the same mistake determining the PLG64 is a winner and assumed the PLG6C should hit and was not impressed at all. The only recourse is to trash them and replace them or try to balance them with the better speakers over the head unit or amp. They obviously cut corners and the corner they cut was speaker quality in their component sets to get their price point that low. Which definitely reveals itself if you have any good speaker in your set up. I have the PLG64 in one rear door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in my other rear door and, even though its in my front doors..so closer to me, the PLG6C components are pretty trash. Still way better than a stock set up. But I dont like having to balance Front and Rear on my head unit, because it obviously reveals my front 6" mains are leaving something to be desired there. Also send me the partreon donation so I may buy the charcoal briquettes making machine from Thailand.

@@gantz4u my guess is that they are dead out of the box. At this point I’m ready to go get a set of coaxial speakers and call it a day

@@Louzahsol yeah send them back I bet they have a good return policy. theyll figure out if they work or not.

@@gantz4u I ended up testing them and they are 4.5ohm so I’m not sure why I have no sound

@@Louzahsol Yeah that means your coils not blown and theres no short circuit from a bad solder joint. have you looked for the line signal with a multimeter set to A/C voltage and the stereo head unit sending a signal at higher volume? You should see weird spikes of A/C power if your speakers are receiving a signal. If you got a 9 volt battery you can tap it onto the leads of the speaker and see if the cone goes up and down. But its dangerous as it could blow the speaker. as it needs only a little tap and usually best to use a pretty drained 9 volt.

Venetian snares Milk (knifehandchop Mix)

4. 6 inch long corner braces. Then measure and cut the portion of the legs that sit on the floor so they tuck under. For instance 1 corner brace I did not cut at all. I used an angle grinder to cut them. Then I marked and drilled holes. to secure them with the hardware. the hard ware I had laying around but its 4 bolts some large washers and wing nuts.

what if i was like deaf bro?

@@gantz4u you wouldn't be able to hear it either

what if you like, needed soap real bad tho?

@@gantz4u No thanks, I like to play it safe when it comes to chemicals. Some leaves in nature can be used as cleaners if I really need to find a cleaning source.

@@esmeraldapooner751 Good point. This Stuff is supposed to be extremely caustic. I just play with it like I got super powers of being stupid.

Flour for bread baking. It makes it like glue by cooking. But flour gets moldy. So charcoal gets moldy. But its fumes are safer than chemical glues for food cooking. Thank you for your interest. Kind sir.

Agreed. I cant tell how hard my front PYLE PLG6C hit with a PLG64 in the back left door and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker in the back right door anymore. Because the rear speakers hit so hard and drown out the fronts. Its like theres a concert in the back seats and I might be picking up some of it in the front. All running on a Dual XPR84D. But Im happy with the max loudness of the speakers VS the pre amp on an aboutbit single DIN deck. Because an Aboutbit head unit will cast over bluetooth even tho the built in preamp is a joke and I got the chinese sound insulation in all the doors.

yeah these hit for mids and bass and a DS18 PRO-X Mid-Range Loudspeaker helps balance everything out in the treble notes. I got in my friends Toyota prius and hes like you want me to put on Mike Jones and Paul Wall? and I swear he had a 2 inch speaker running solo somewhere in his dash. No hate. but it really showed the contrast of the situation enough to make me appreciate the sound quality Ive grown accustomed to.

Potassium carbonate is what should be leaching from ash. You can supposedly get it to saponify fats and oils in old soap recipes but I havent had luck trying it. Modern soap is made with lye, potassium hydroxide because its better at saponification so I attempted a double replacement reaction by creating Calcium Hydroxide from Calcium carbonate by slaking lime stone. The reaction did not take place. Either because the calcium hydroxide turned back into limestone by exposure to atmosphere or my double replacement reaction technique was poor. However The Potassium Carbonate I've found use for raising PH, since its basic, In fertilizer mixtures I put on my plants (tomato, Sweet potato) Since 0-10-10 fish emulsion drops PH too low and needs to be raised back up with something basic, but not harmful to plants. There its, just adding Potassium and Carbonates to the fertilizer mix while simultaneously buffering the PH. Where Potassium will act as a fertilizer nutrient and the carbonate will stimulate soil bacteria to produce Chelate acids(humic fulvic) and eventually some will be absorbed by the plant, according to what i assume to be the case.

@@gantz4u i thought the ash contained oxides, which react with water to make hydroxides, and then the exposure to carbon dioxide would turn them into carbonates.

@@gantz4u mh, you should do recristalisation to get rid of the yellow color, actualy those cristal that dont dry well are more likely to be the OH form cuz they suck water out of the air like NaOH do , and as soap maker it is only the OH form that do soap, you have to use NaOH (NaCo3 just used as tensioactif, helping reducing amount of soap for same result, but its the OH form that break bond in ur oil to do soap with lipid chain and leave like 5 10 pourcent glycerin from the molecule that bounded those lipid chain ... look google to separate them then look to convert back NaCo3 to NaOH, i think i maybe can be achieved just by heat like the carbon part + oxygen and heat will leave like concrete stuff is activated same way ,

@@sunoncream1118 Sodium and Potassium are both metals and have soap recipes. This is Potassium. But yeah I could convert Table salt through electrolysis to get a caustic base of Sodium, which is more cost effective. But I would need a platinum Anode and electric. I think my Calcium hydroxide was just old and converted back to Carbonate through exposure to air. As I wish to make old recipe soap, like wood ash recipes, using potassium carbonate or Hydroxide. Because it is more primitive and sustainable for making soap for low tech.environments. This recipe should just require fire and ash but I couldnt get it to kick. As far as purifying it I ran it to a temp. just around where Potassium carbonate would melt but not vaporize, so its relatively pure compared to crude forms of potassium carbonate from ash, for soap.

@@sunoncream1118 Looks like I might need to boil the saponification process for 3 days to make castille, without converting this stuff from its carbonate form.." olive oil could boil for three days until the lye activated and turned it into a thick liquid soap"

Nah. Its not potassium nitrate. I put some on a tomato plant to see what would happen and there was no difference between the control. If nitrate where present the plant would have been greener. If lye, I assume the plant would have died. Its possible that the double displacement did not work and its potassium carbonate. But,you would think, that would have yielded saponification. It tasted like potassium chloride. But ive never tasted potassium carbonate. Interestingly while sitting there for months. It absorbed moisture from the atmosphere and turned to a paste. When I taste tested it again, it was much more alkaline and burned my tongue this time. So Ive been meaning to get around to reattempting soap to see if it will saponify fats in this more alkaline state. I also added some, in the hard "fresh" state to sugar to rule out Potassium Chlorate and it did not ignite.

I don't think wood ash has any nitrogen

Thanks Mike.

I should figure something out about that.. like strap a go pro to my head or something..

but what if heroin and alcohol really does cure the rona? why u mad tho?...I liked and subscribed bro..Youre trippin

You where so mad with you're feelings hurt you deleted my comments too. All sad with you're feelings hurt deleting my comments and making fun of my soap making skills. :(

@@gantz4u I’m not mad at all, I thought it was hilarious that you’d subscribe just to hate😂🤣😂 please get some of your fellow haters to do the same so I can get more subscribers!!!

Let's collab. then. I got sick beats. You can put your rap songs on.

@@gantz4u I promise you my feelings are not hurt, I don’t let anyone’s opinion affect my mood , especially an internet troll I’ve never met. I also didn’t delete your comments💯 I thought you did. They showed up on my notifications feed but when I went to the videos to respond to them they were nowhere to be found. I never delete comments no matter what they say because I will always win the argument and leave you to be seen as an example for others of what could happen to them

Wut? You gotta make whole sentences.

Llegas tarde al espectáculo. Un hombre que te escucha caca por eyaculación que no puede ver desde los viejos tiempos.

@@gantz4u mierda, ahora que veo tu canal me doy cuenta que tú subiste el cover del Pepe clown "clone world". Por eso es que me apareció este video en recomendados. Por cierto: te quedó bien el cover: siempre lo oigo para alegrarme el día

Venetian snares Milk (knifehandchop Mix)

Dose this speaker hit better than the pyramid 6.5 speakers?

@@keneilbryan1617 I dunno I haven't tried them. I installed Pyle PLG6C's in the front doors. I dont recommend those speakers. Theyre bass heavy and muffled. Then Installed an amp. Blew out the right back doors stock speaker and replaced that with a DS18 loudspeaker in that door to try and counterbalance everything being a bit bassey. None of that is plug and play. Everything had to be modified on the install. The DS18 had some issues with vibrating on the bass tones but I went back in and I think it was vibrating on the doors speaker enclosure. The vibrating issue seems to be fixed and the system sounds fuller now. I also put door sound deadener(the cheap stuff) on the inner metal door shells. That was good bang for the buck as far as reducing vibration noise increasing sound fullness and brightness and reducing road noise in the interior. If I had to do it again I would have avoided the PLG6C's component set, the quality of those speakers are pretty junk and the fact its a component set doesnt outweigh the speakers quality. Overall that system is decent and I dont expect to upgrade the front PLG6C's, Since Im afraid 1 DS18 and 1 of these pyle mid woofers would create an imbalance, Im not sure what I would upgrade them to and speaker system seems to be ok this way. But the front PLG6C components are definitely the weak links in the chain now.

​@@keneilbryan1617speakers don't HIT.