When I was very ill I went to Las Vegas Open. I was ruining brushes left and right, the monument hobbies people helped me tremendously. He took the time to explain to me to never use your good brushes with metal paint or inks, to use a synthetic. Since then my brushes last longer and I get less frustrated
Same, I think that's how I'm killing my good brushes, because I'm super carefull with the maintenance (soap, no paint past the belly, etc) but I never tought about metal flakes.
Yes those 8s (or roughly that size) are GREAT! I have an heirloom from my mom, uknown brand, camel hair size 8 that I use for everything. It is OLD too. The only thing I'd add to your list, is if you do terrain at all (as is my main bent) a 1 inch house painting brush is your best friend!
The owner of my local art supply shop recommended a 1/4" dagger brush as a "workhorse." The dagger tip is like an angle shader with a curved edge, which turns out to be really versatile. You can use the point, edge, or side to make a variety of brush strokes, and it holds a moderate amount of liquid. The shop owner uses it as his workhorse for art painting, and it seems quite suitable for model painting as well.
I can see that. It's an artist type brush because on canvas you will use the brush in multiple ways (we are so insular in the miniature painting world, but we can learn a lot from that 2-d art world for sure). Your brush is a multi-faceted tool regardless of the shape, so I could certainly see the advantages of that shape.
Great video! I was given a "junkie old brush" from my Hobby shop owner friend a few years ago. He said I needed it to do the jobs my "good" brushes should never be used for. It had a wooden handle, looked like a paint stir stick, and the bristles were all caked up something fierce! I used it as directed by him for a good while, but started cleaning it with Masterson's brush soap after each use. It wasn't too long until the bristles became unbelievably soft, even holding their shape. It's actually my favorite brush now, used for surprisingly small details! He had no idea what brand it was...lol..
What a great break down of basic tools and uses! I feel like this gets skipped over in a lot of available content, and can be very overwhelming for new painters (or returning painters who didn't know what they are doing in the first place, and are pretending to know what they are doing now, who prefer to limit the number of dumb questions they ask haha). Seriously, great stuff as usual.
i have a tendency to obsess over notions of MUST HAVE THE RIGHT BRUSH FOR (THING) and this honestly helps my brain get away from that notion of the perfect brush for each and every little job. so thanks for this!
Thanks Vince. Its inspiring knowing that a significant portion of your painting is done with generic hobby store brushes (or ones you might find camping...) and not the super expensive name brands.
The 8404's have always been so good to me. I must have bought all dud WN Series 7's as I've had 3 and they basically turned into dry brushes after a few sessions with very good brush care. I always give brushes another chance because of the nature of brushes in general, however I don't see myself risking a 4th $20 plus Series 7. I'm really happy with the Monument Hobbies brushes, both synthetic and Sable.
A secret brush I find really useful around the hobby table (since long before I got in to mini painting specifically) is a cheap but clean, dry, and soft largish brush which never touches water or paint-its entire job is to dust. It's so nice having something handy that can I can quickly and gently sweep my work when coming back after it's sat a while, or if I notice a bit of dust or hair or whatever has settled on it that would wreak havoc if I were to paint over it. Also good for clearing off dust to see what you're doing while sanding/filing during the assembly step and for cleaning dust off stuff on display (first discovered it for the latter purpose with regard to kit modeling, nothing better for dusting fine and fragile details than a soft, dry paintbrush)...
I feel like it is also important to mention one brush that you don't need -- the super-tiny 10/0 or 20/0 that beginners always pick up when they go to the art store and get the smallest brush they can because miniatures are small, right? (though... I will admit that I find a 10/0 liner to be occasionally useful)
Well, I am a beginner and I would like to disagred partly. They are definitely useful for very small details like eyes. Sure you can paint everything with a medium sized brush, but a beginner will struggle immensely to paint a tounge, eye or individual golden tooth for example. I will definitely pick up a even smaller brush than my smallest one atm, eventhough it will be used only on very special occasions...
@@Over_Head_Press I have to disagree. At some point once you get past about 2/0, it's not the size that matters when doing details, it's the fineness of the tip. A good 2/0 will give you just as fine, if not a finer, tip than one of these super tiny brushes. Also, the 2/0 actually has enough belly on it to hold enough paint to be useful and it's easier to not get paint in the ferrule and wreck it. Try a nice sable 2/0 with a good tip and you won't go back to those tiny brushes.
I used to look for the smallest brushes I could find for minis but never found them that small normally would use 3/0 or 4/0 ,but now I've normally been using just a Sable 1 and a 2/0 for tiny details
My experience with the Raphaels is that they lose their point very easily. You can even see how "fluffy" this looked in the video. They start out with a beautiful point when freshly wetted with paint, but after just a few strokes I start to lose the point. Drives me nuts. I have 2 8404s, an 8408 and a special edition with some artist's name on it and they all do it. I always come back to my WN, which keeps its point pretty much indefinitely. Or a golden taklon brush, those things have great snap and a nice point, and leave nice smooth beautiful strokes, but they fray and need to be replaced quickly. They also "run out" of paint fast and always need to be dipped back into the palette. I'd highly recommend a cheap pack of size 2 or bigger taklon brushes for basecoating. Oh, about those sizes. I feel like it is just Raphael brushes that throw sizing out the window. I have DaVinci (standard brushes and the ones with the long red handle), Raphael, Opus, WN and golden taklon brushes branded vallejo and reaper. They all share similar sizing except for Raphael. A Raphael 000 is like a size 1 in every other brand. I have a Raphael 6/0 and it is slightly larger than a WN 000.
Thank you, I needed these basics to improve my painting. I’m going to go through my brushes and organize them according to the painting steps you outlined.
So, I know that many (most?) metallic mini paints use mica, a stone/mineral, not metallic fragments. I don't know if that makes a difference in how they affect your brush, so make of that what you will. Many do use real metal bits, though. Vallejo model air metallics and Vallejo Metal Color use ground up aluminum, for example, which is probably why people like them so much. Regardless, from now on I'll be using a "dedicated" metallics brush, just to be safe.
Junk Brushes FTW!!!!!!! i buy a a few of those, i use them for mixing paint, because i dont want to use my nice ones for it!! I have a few Winsor and newton, but its hard to find ones that work because sometimes i get them, im still learning to paint and not kill :( My favorite brush is the Army Painter Regiment brushes. they are my big ones.
I've watched about three or four of your vids so far and absolutely love them! I just got through trying out using the flow aid for straight lines doing my checker pattern on my orks and there's a super improvement! WOW! Now, later today I'm going to sink precious money into a winsor newton bursh, maybe two, what do you suggest for fine details? Eyes, teeth, straight lines. I'm looking at "o" and "oo". I intend on watching all your stuff now! Your the best instructor I've found yet! And I've been a commerical artist since 1986! If I ever get rich I'm gonna send you a bag of money! Lol
Many, here is an old bad one - ruclips.net/video/VDeaCMaqhjU/видео.html Another - ruclips.net/video/RLHsE7SgZyc/видео.html And the most recent - ruclips.net/video/lpB_YBcL5Ys/видео.html The playlist has everything in it and 360 videos in, I've touched most topics. :)
Very helpful thank you! I'll have to check the rest of your stuff. I'm new and i thought you would use the really tiny brushes for the detail stuff. Their being sharp as the really critical feature makes more sense now.
It's okay, everyone thinks tiny brushes are the way to go with small detail, you are FAR from alone (including myself originally), but it turns out the sharp tip is the key. Happy to help as always. :)
I will say what I always say. The brushes will get ruined, eventually, entropy is real. :) - That doesn't matter, you have already spent the money. It would be like buying a car and then never driving it because it will get miles and dings. THe point is to drive. As long as you use them for detail work and don't soak them in washes or anything, give them a good cleaning, they can last for quite a while. :)
I'd be petrified to try dry brushing with that monster make up brush. Some food for thought here as my brush toolbox is no where near what you have. I'll have to try the bigger brushes and see. Might bring my painting up a level (though that's not saying much). Thanks for the video! Very interesting.
Happy to help as always. I have a few smaller versions of the same dry brush, but the key is a good make-up brush for dry-brushing (you an get multi-packs for a few bucks on Amazon).
I watched a video of a Steve Kafka using a Liner Brush and I was mesmerized by how awesome the Liner Brush worked on the curves of the letters. These are obviously used for larger jobs but have you ever experimented with small Liner Brushes for free hand work on banners and such?
Hi sir. I'm so glad to have found your channel. Learning so much. Had a question. Which brush is perfect for washes? Is it the make up brush or something regular?
Thanks, Vince. Great video. This will really help me focus the brush types I use. Do you have a link where we could pick up some of those 08 Artist Brushes? Or a description of them so we could find something similar? Like hair type... I tried searching Amazon for 'Artist Brush', but couldn't find them...
I wish I did, as I would buy more of them. They used to come in a big pack from amazon, but the generic pack stopped including that size, my general advice is you will have to hunt around and try some random packs of brushes that say they include a round Size 6 or 8, that should be what you are looking for.
Either a nice cheap pack of synthetics (I have some linked in new video descriptions) or a nice sable like a Raphael 8404, that is my general go to sable brush.
I think maybe some turquoise and yellow for highlight and purple for lowlight, honestly I just mixed something on the day so I am not too sure (sorry, sometimes I was just throwing some paint around.) :)
@@VinceVenturella Excuse me Vince but do you know when the higher tier will become available? Is there a wait list once I’m subbed on your patreon? Will have some spare cash and more practice in after Xmas and the discord chat will be helpful enough for a while.
We are always adding classes. I am sure someone from CK studios is teaching there, but I have no current planned classes, but I am sure I will get around there eventually. :)
That's mostly the selection of brushes I paint with. I'm still using my W&N with true metallics. Maybe that's why they don't survive for long. What brushes do you use for high detailed TMM?
I have a few synthetic brushes that hold a nice point (like Cotmans ans such) that I use for it - OR older sable brushes that don't have the tip anymore but I don't mind ruining them more. :)
what about using brush soap and/or white spirit/turpentine/brush cleaner to clean the drybrush? should all of them being sable or is it better to use synthetics? btw: I wish, I could paint an ork like that...what brand and scale is that?
Brush soap is fine for Sables, I wouldn't use anything like white spirits, that will kill them fast. Synthetics can be cleaned with most anything. The Orc is from Big Child Creatives, he's 54mm.
I'll use this advice for when I buy better quality brushes. Is there any brand you may recommend? Looking for a good balance between quality and affordability
Hi Vince, question on detail brushes. For personal lifestyle reasons, I avoid purchasing animal products. Obviously this means I avoid sable brushes. So I wondered if there were any synthetic brushes you'd recommend that would offer similar performance to a sable brush. Based on some searching it looked like Winsor & Newton Cotman brushes could be the closest I could get.
Just so you know when you get down to it basically everything on this planet is at some point made of animal. Think of it this way 1 good brush made of a little weasel hair can last you a long time. Or you end up going through 50 synthetic brushes. So cost wise alone it's crazy and the amount of plastic and oil and pollutants pumping into the air to make your 50 synthetic brushes are definitely not helping the environment. And besides those weasels would eat you given the chance lol. Only seems fair
Vince, do you have a link to the pack of cheap size 8 brushes you said you buy from amazon? Also, how big are they (say in relation to a Space Marine). I bought a size 8 brush once and it is almost the size of the entire space marine (maybe from base to neck) while the one you showed seems a bit smaller (say the size of the torso).
I wish I did, I honestly can't find the exact brush anymore. The pack of brushes I bought before doesn't have them in there anymore (as it's some random pack from China basically). I am actually searching for a replacement now and will just have to make the 5 I have now last. It sucks, as I really love that brush.
Hey... So you attended a class with Sergio... I am a Patreon of his and still cant crack his use of airbrush to kind of glaze and bring all together in the end... It would great if you could talk about that in one of your videos, your impressions, etc... Thanks
Sir I have a question I paint Primarily 15 mm flames the war and team Yankee stuff what brush what are used to get the very fine details such as their bayonets on the end of their rifles The bolt action on the rifles and any other smaller details such as canteens and miss tense
In terms of Raphael 8404 Vs Winsor and Newton Series 7, would you say that the Series 7 has finer hairs hence a smoother finish with your brush strokes compared to the Raphael or do you think that's balloney?? P.S. I love the Raphael 8404
So if you hunt around on Amazon and the like, you can generally find them for a little cheaper. That being said, if it's just not in the cards, then a good synthetic brush like a Cotman will do pretty well in a pinch.
Generally 28/32mm. All my normal gaming and competition miniatures. The quality varies as per the project, but everything from army to Golden Demon/Crystal Brush.
Great video vince! Just what I needed! I want to try some new brushes and I think I`ll grab some Raphael`s. Also the staff from my local gaming store recommended 8404 series! Just won our local painting contest with my black knight -> white walker conversion and got Arkhan the Black! So excited to paint him! Have you tried citadel artificer brushes? I heard those are the same as W&N series 7
Raphael 8404 are great for fine point and holding paint, love them. Always use that 'the masters brush cleaner and restorer' soap after each painting session giving it a lukewarm shower via the water tap. If you get paint into the ferrule don't panic, Vallejo do a sable brush restorer (liquid blue colour), leave the brush dipped into the liquid for 4 minutes remove the wash clean with forementioned masters soap via a tap shower.
Hi again Vince! Hope you are well in these times! Can you point me online to some crappy synthetic brush megapacks that you use? I've tried many at this point and can't use 95% of the brushes...they either come with lots that aren't rounds or the rounds have no point whatsoever. Thanks!
I wish I could point you toward a set where I can still get the 8s. They changed the one I have always ordered so it doesn't have the 8s in it. So I am actually searching as well for my new replacement.
I used the first generation, I didn't like them for acrylics as they didn't have much of a belly, but I actually use them for oil paints as they are perfect sables for that purpose.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, makes sense, you get what you pay for. Ughhh, I really don't want to spend over $15 for a good brush, but perhaps there is no choice.
Any big brush like that will do, there are generics everywhere, so just something big and cheap that can hold a point. I buy bulk packs from amazon and the like.
I have searched everywhere for those size artist brushes and can't seem to find them to save my life. A link would be very much appreciated! (I've looked for any brush size in bulk like that and the biggest I found and bought was size 1 but I find them a bit small for getting stuff done.) Thanks again for another great vid, sorry I don't comment as often anymore. :)
Well, it's a random thing, I just ordered a pack and they didn't have more of these in it (so I ordered a different pack). I will link if it contains them. As they are just random packs, it's always hit or miss. :)
@@jrseitz21 I actually don't even remember what we're talking about but no, definitely not still waiting! ;-) If you have a good link to some nice brushes though I'm always down!
@@robv.johnson6360 if your talking sable hair like natural hair brushes Jackson art supply or blick art supply's would have them. As far as synthetic? It's a disaster. Every brand i tried barely makes 3 days without the famous jhook on the tip.
to bad you dont come to Tennessee are there any online classes I realize over the internet it's hard but with hangout and video chats now days may not be so bad ?
Does anyone use Escoda brushes for miniature painting? I'm just a regular artist but my Escoda versatil comes to such a tiny point, I'd imagine it could be used for all these tiny details.
I have used escoda for a lot of things in various sizes. nice point but have recently used raphael. seem to hold more and lay thinned paint better for me. like and use both though.
For the Raphael 8404, I literally just search for that on amazon. People resell through there, so links change all the time, but here is an example of what I mean with the nicer brushes (the cheap brushes are just anything) www.amazon.com/Raphael-Kolinsky-Sable-Point-Round/dp/B001UN6VL8/ref=sr_1_10?crid=43UYPCTG8YK4&keywords=raphael+8404&qid=1558223480&s=gateway&sprefix=Raphael+%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-10
These might be pretty close to the Artist Brush #8. www.webstaurantstore.com/charles-leonard-73508-black-size-8-round-camel-hair-bristle-artist-brush-pack/328LEO73508.html?Google&GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjaqso4SI4wIVF6rsCh10PQDLEAYYASABEgLd5fD_BwE
My source dried up, but I have found these packs which have 3s, 6s and 10s and they are pretty useful - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KQYC74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think the technical term for the pink brush is the "slut brush". It gets all kinda goop all over it. All the time. And whenever you're done with it, just throw it out and get a new one. It isn't a good girl brush. You're not supposed to take care of it forever.
When I was very ill I went to Las Vegas Open. I was ruining brushes left and right, the monument hobbies people helped me tremendously. He took the time to explain to me to never use your good brushes with metal paint or inks, to use a synthetic. Since then my brushes last longer and I get less frustrated
Thank you so much for making these. You have improved my hobbying immensely since I started watching about half a year ago
That's awesome to hear and I am happy to help. :)
never thought about metal flakes shredding my brushes O_o Thank you, Sir! What a great video! :)
Happy to help as always. :)
Same, I think that's how I'm killing my good brushes, because I'm super carefull with the maintenance (soap, no paint past the belly, etc) but I never tought about metal flakes.
Yes those 8s (or roughly that size) are GREAT! I have an heirloom from my mom, uknown brand, camel hair size 8 that I use for everything. It is OLD too. The only thing I'd add to your list, is if you do terrain at all (as is my main bent) a 1 inch house painting brush is your best friend!
It's a great point, when it's terrain time, it's time for the serious brushes! :)
The owner of my local art supply shop recommended a 1/4" dagger brush as a "workhorse." The dagger tip is like an angle shader with a curved edge, which turns out to be really versatile. You can use the point, edge, or side to make a variety of brush strokes, and it holds a moderate amount of liquid. The shop owner uses it as his workhorse for art painting, and it seems quite suitable for model painting as well.
I can see that. It's an artist type brush because on canvas you will use the brush in multiple ways (we are so insular in the miniature painting world, but we can learn a lot from that 2-d art world for sure). Your brush is a multi-faceted tool regardless of the shape, so I could certainly see the advantages of that shape.
Great video! I was given a "junkie old brush" from my Hobby shop owner friend a few years ago. He said I needed it to do the jobs my "good" brushes should never be used for. It had a wooden handle, looked like a paint stir stick, and the bristles were all caked up something fierce! I used it as directed by him for a good while, but started cleaning it with Masterson's brush soap after each use. It wasn't too long until the bristles became unbelievably soft, even holding their shape. It's actually my favorite brush now, used for surprisingly small details! He had no idea what brand it was...lol..
I love brushes like that, I have a few rando brushes I love myself.
What size is it?
Comparable to a Artis Opis series S 4@@mikebalis9963
What a great break down of basic tools and uses! I feel like this gets skipped over in a lot of available content, and can be very overwhelming for new painters (or returning painters who didn't know what they are doing in the first place, and are pretending to know what they are doing now, who prefer to limit the number of dumb questions they ask haha). Seriously, great stuff as usual.
Thank you, much appreciated for sure. :)
I use shampoo and conditioner for cleaning my sable brushes. It’s real hair so treating it like...well, hair...just makes sense.
It's a great call, I should have menioned it, but when dealing with natural hair, it turns out that real conditioner for hair is pretty good. :)
i have a tendency to obsess over notions of MUST HAVE THE RIGHT BRUSH FOR (THING) and this honestly helps my brain get away from that notion of the perfect brush for each and every little job.
so thanks for this!
Happy to help!
Thanks Vince. Its inspiring knowing that a significant portion of your painting is done with generic hobby store brushes (or ones you might find camping...) and not the super expensive name brands.
Absolutely, it's important to have some nice brushes, they have a purpose, it's just generally the last 20% of your work on a miniature. :)
The 8404's have always been so good to me. I must have bought all dud WN Series 7's as I've had 3 and they basically turned into dry brushes after a few sessions with very good brush care. I always give brushes another chance because of the nature of brushes in general, however I don't see myself risking a 4th $20 plus Series 7. I'm really happy with the Monument Hobbies brushes, both synthetic and Sable.
Yeah, I love the 8404s
A secret brush I find really useful around the hobby table (since long before I got in to mini painting specifically) is a cheap but clean, dry, and soft largish brush which never touches water or paint-its entire job is to dust. It's so nice having something handy that can I can quickly and gently sweep my work when coming back after it's sat a while, or if I notice a bit of dust or hair or whatever has settled on it that would wreak havoc if I were to paint over it. Also good for clearing off dust to see what you're doing while sanding/filing during the assembly step and for cleaning dust off stuff on display (first discovered it for the latter purpose with regard to kit modeling, nothing better for dusting fine and fragile details than a soft, dry paintbrush)...
Absolutely!
I feel like it is also important to mention one brush that you don't need -- the super-tiny 10/0 or 20/0 that beginners always pick up when they go to the art store and get the smallest brush they can because miniatures are small, right?
(though... I will admit that I find a 10/0 liner to be occasionally useful)
Really excellent point, those super tiny brushes with no belly just don't do what people think they are going to do.
@@VinceVenturella I have gone down that road though they where not that small, painting became so much easier and faster with a bigger brush.
Well, I am a beginner and I would like to disagred partly.
They are definitely useful for very small details like eyes. Sure you can paint everything with a medium sized brush, but a beginner will struggle immensely to paint a tounge, eye or individual golden tooth for example.
I will definitely pick up a even smaller brush than my smallest one atm, eventhough it will be used only on very special occasions...
@@Over_Head_Press I have to disagree.
At some point once you get past about 2/0, it's not the size that matters when doing details, it's the fineness of the tip. A good 2/0 will give you just as fine, if not a finer, tip than one of these super tiny brushes. Also, the 2/0 actually has enough belly on it to hold enough paint to be useful and it's easier to not get paint in the ferrule and wreck it.
Try a nice sable 2/0 with a good tip and you won't go back to those tiny brushes.
I used to look for the smallest brushes I could find for minis but never found them that small normally would use 3/0 or 4/0 ,but now I've normally been using just a Sable 1 and a 2/0 for tiny details
My experience with the Raphaels is that they lose their point very easily. You can even see how "fluffy" this looked in the video. They start out with a beautiful point when freshly wetted with paint, but after just a few strokes I start to lose the point. Drives me nuts. I have 2 8404s, an 8408 and a special edition with some artist's name on it and they all do it. I always come back to my WN, which keeps its point pretty much indefinitely. Or a golden taklon brush, those things have great snap and a nice point, and leave nice smooth beautiful strokes, but they fray and need to be replaced quickly. They also "run out" of paint fast and always need to be dipped back into the palette. I'd highly recommend a cheap pack of size 2 or bigger taklon brushes for basecoating.
Oh, about those sizes. I feel like it is just Raphael brushes that throw sizing out the window. I have DaVinci (standard brushes and the ones with the long red handle), Raphael, Opus, WN and golden taklon brushes branded vallejo and reaper. They all share similar sizing except for Raphael. A Raphael 000 is like a size 1 in every other brand. I have a Raphael 6/0 and it is slightly larger than a WN 000.
I've been looking at Windsor and Newton brushes. Do you use watercolour ones? The only ones I can find for acrylics are synthetic
Thank you, I needed these basics to improve my painting. I’m going to go through my brushes and organize them according to the painting steps you outlined.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Thanks for the video Vince. Really enjoy your style of explanation
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Another outstanding video with a ton of great information...very informative...well done, Thank You.
Glad it was helpful!
So, I know that many (most?) metallic mini paints use mica, a stone/mineral, not metallic fragments. I don't know if that makes a difference in how they affect your brush, so make of that what you will. Many do use real metal bits, though. Vallejo model air metallics and Vallejo Metal Color use ground up aluminum, for example, which is probably why people like them so much.
Regardless, from now on I'll be using a "dedicated" metallics brush, just to be safe.
Yep, most of the nicer metallics use ground up aluminum (which an shred sable brushes). They are also just harder to get out of brush hair.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
You bet
Junk Brushes FTW!!!!!!! i buy a a few of those, i use them for mixing paint, because i dont want to use my nice ones for it!! I have a few Winsor and newton, but its hard to find ones that work because sometimes i get them, im still learning to paint and not kill :( My favorite brush is the Army Painter Regiment brushes. they are my big ones.
Yep, always good to have some junk brushes. :)
I've watched about three or four of your vids so far and absolutely love them! I just got through trying out using the flow aid for straight lines doing my checker pattern on my orks and there's a super improvement! WOW!
Now, later today I'm going to sink precious money into a winsor newton bursh, maybe two, what do you suggest for fine details? Eyes, teeth, straight lines. I'm looking at "o" and "oo".
I intend on watching all your stuff now! Your the best instructor I've found yet! And I've been a commerical artist since 1986!
If I ever get rich I'm gonna send you a bag of money! Lol
Well thank you, that is all too kind and I am very happy to help. :) - As to your nice sable brushes, I would go with a 1 and a 00.
Didn't know metallics shredded natural hairs like that, shall be using old brushes for that from now on
Yep, synthetics are the way to go. :)
@@VinceVenturella I've got some synthetic brushes, but they're watercolour ones, I find that the tips start to curl.
I would add a good size flat brush. Painting vehicles, terrain and other flat surfaces would be a nightmare without one for me.
I can see that, I go for an airbrush for vehicles, but absent that, yes, I can see the value.
I love your videos! It's super helpful to watch you paint things too! Do you have any videos on painting wood texture?
Many, here is an old bad one - ruclips.net/video/VDeaCMaqhjU/видео.html
Another - ruclips.net/video/RLHsE7SgZyc/видео.html
And the most recent - ruclips.net/video/lpB_YBcL5Ys/видео.html
The playlist has everything in it and 360 videos in, I've touched most topics. :)
Very helpful thank you! I'll have to check the rest of your stuff. I'm new and i thought you would use the really tiny brushes for the detail stuff. Their being sharp as the really critical feature makes more sense now.
It's okay, everyone thinks tiny brushes are the way to go with small detail, you are FAR from alone (including myself originally), but it turns out the sharp tip is the key. Happy to help as always. :)
Gut myself some nice and pricey brushes. Now I am afraid of ruining them and hesitate to use them. 😂
Thanks for the great video Vince!
I will say what I always say. The brushes will get ruined, eventually, entropy is real. :) - That doesn't matter, you have already spent the money. It would be like buying a car and then never driving it because it will get miles and dings. THe point is to drive. As long as you use them for detail work and don't soak them in washes or anything, give them a good cleaning, they can last for quite a while. :)
Thanks again. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist
I'd be petrified to try dry brushing with that monster make up brush. Some food for thought here as my brush toolbox is no where near what you have. I'll have to try the bigger brushes and see. Might bring my painting up a level (though that's not saying much). Thanks for the video! Very interesting.
Happy to help as always. I have a few smaller versions of the same dry brush, but the key is a good make-up brush for dry-brushing (you an get multi-packs for a few bucks on Amazon).
I watched a video of a Steve Kafka using a Liner Brush and I was mesmerized by how awesome the Liner Brush worked on the curves of the letters. These are obviously used for larger jobs but have you ever experimented with small Liner Brushes for free hand work on banners and such?
I haven't, but it's an interesting thing to experiment with for sure.
Hi sir. I'm so glad to have found your channel. Learning so much. Had a question. Which brush is perfect for washes? Is it the make up brush or something regular?
a large synthetic brush
@@VinceVenturellaAwesome. Thank you so much.
Thanks, Vince. Great video. This will really help me focus the brush types I use. Do you have a link where we could pick up some of those 08 Artist Brushes? Or a description of them so we could find something similar? Like hair type... I tried searching Amazon for 'Artist Brush', but couldn't find them...
I wish I did, as I would buy more of them. They used to come in a big pack from amazon, but the generic pack stopped including that size, my general advice is you will have to hunt around and try some random packs of brushes that say they include a round Size 6 or 8, that should be what you are looking for.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much for the reply! I assume they're synthetic, right?
@@sdshuge2.0 Correct, just cheap synthetic brush packs, it's a sort of random lottery sadly.
I need a new brush for basecoat. Vince help me! Suggest me a good brand, master!
Either a nice cheap pack of synthetics (I have some linked in new video descriptions) or a nice sable like a Raphael 8404, that is my general go to sable brush.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the answer. 😊 I know the Raphael but I think I’ll go cheap and try some synthetic brush, gonna check those links. 👍🏻
Love! Love what you have done with Tsukigoro. That is the perfect shade of blue. Can I ask what you used?
I think maybe some turquoise and yellow for highlight and purple for lowlight, honestly I just mixed something on the day so I am not too sure (sorry, sometimes I was just throwing some paint around.) :)
Didn’t realize metal paint ruined brushes. Thank you.
Happy to help.
Thanks for this Vince mate.
Happy to help buddy.
Are any of your classes where you teach done online, Vince? I’m in Australia is all.
Through Patreon I do 1-1 coaching when that tier is available.
@@VinceVenturella Forgot to see if you have a Patreon! Might have to join over chrissy. Thanks again mate
@@VinceVenturella Excuse me Vince but do you know when the higher tier will become available? Is there a wait list once I’m subbed on your patreon? Will have some spare cash and more practice in after Xmas and the discord chat will be helpful enough for a while.
I didn't think to avoid using metallic paints with the natural brushes. I would love to take a class, do you ever teach around Denver?
We are always adding classes. I am sure someone from CK studios is teaching there, but I have no current planned classes, but I am sure I will get around there eventually. :)
That's mostly the selection of brushes I paint with. I'm still using my W&N with true metallics. Maybe that's why they don't survive for long. What brushes do you use for high detailed TMM?
I have a few synthetic brushes that hold a nice point (like Cotmans ans such) that I use for it - OR older sable brushes that don't have the tip anymore but I don't mind ruining them more. :)
what about using brush soap and/or white spirit/turpentine/brush cleaner to clean the drybrush? should all of them being sable or is it better to use synthetics?
btw: I wish, I could paint an ork like that...what brand and scale is that?
Brush soap is fine for Sables, I wouldn't use anything like white spirits, that will kill them fast. Synthetics can be cleaned with most anything.
The Orc is from Big Child Creatives, he's 54mm.
I'll use this advice for when I buy better quality brushes. Is there any brand you may recommend? Looking for a good balance between quality and affordability
Raphael 8404 is my general go to.
@@VinceVenturella Alright. Thanks and also hippy new year!
Hi Vince, question on detail brushes. For personal lifestyle reasons, I avoid purchasing animal products. Obviously this means I avoid sable brushes. So I wondered if there were any synthetic brushes you'd recommend that would offer similar performance to a sable brush. Based on some searching it looked like Winsor & Newton Cotman brushes could be the closest I could get.
Yeah, the cotmans are probably you're best bet, but sadly, there really is no perfect replacement for sable hair brushes.
Just so you know when you get down to it basically everything on this planet is at some point made of animal. Think of it this way 1 good brush made of a little weasel hair can last you a long time. Or you end up going through 50 synthetic brushes. So cost wise alone it's crazy and the amount of plastic and oil and pollutants pumping into the air to make your 50 synthetic brushes are definitely not helping the environment. And besides those weasels would eat you given the chance lol. Only seems fair
That orc figure looks amazing. Any footage of your class with Sergio?
Sadly no, but I recommend taking such a class if you get a chance, it's great.
thanks for yet another excellent video! slightly offtopic: what's that awesome miniature and who makes it? thanks! :-)
Big Child Creatives makes the Orc, great figure.
thank you very much, @@VinceVenturella! :-)
Vince, do you have a link to the pack of cheap size 8 brushes you said you buy from amazon? Also, how big are they (say in relation to a Space Marine). I bought a size 8 brush once and it is almost the size of the entire space marine (maybe from base to neck) while the one you showed seems a bit smaller (say the size of the torso).
I wish I did, I honestly can't find the exact brush anymore. The pack of brushes I bought before doesn't have them in there anymore (as it's some random pack from China basically). I am actually searching for a replacement now and will just have to make the 5 I have now last. It sucks, as I really love that brush.
So I assume you have dedicated brushes for metal paints, like a separate brush for metal basecoating and metal details?
Yep, you got it, just alternate versions of these, but it's just for metals yes.
Hey... So you attended a class with Sergio... I am a Patreon of his and still cant crack his use of airbrush to kind of glaze and bring all together in the end... It would great if you could talk about that in one of your videos, your impressions, etc... Thanks
I have a video on smoothing with an airbrush coming up next month. :)
@@VinceVenturella Awesome!
Watched!❤
Sir I have a question I paint Primarily 15 mm flames the war and team Yankee stuff what brush what are used to get the very fine details such as their bayonets on the end of their rifles The bolt action on the rifles and any other smaller details such as canteens and miss tense
Hmm...tough to say, but basically a Winsor & newton Series 7 or Raph 8404 size 00 should work for such tiny details on tiny figures.
Thank you Vincent you’re always very helpful right now I’m using a Windsor and Newton one and a zero for all my work
In terms of Raphael 8404 Vs Winsor and Newton Series 7, would you say that the Series 7 has finer hairs hence a smoother finish with your brush strokes compared to the Raphael or do you think that's balloney?? P.S. I love the Raphael 8404
I haven't noticed any such difference. I just like the snap of the 8404 a little more, but they are very comparable.
Great video!
Thank you, happy to help as always.:)
where do you buy your raphael 8404 brushes? they dont seem to be sold at any of my local hobby or art stores?
You can sometimes find them on Amazon, I also check Dick Blick's which sometimes has them, depending on location.
For those that aren’t in a place/skill level to drop $20 on a Kolisky Sable brush, what is a good alternative?
So if you hunt around on Amazon and the like, you can generally find them for a little cheaper. That being said, if it's just not in the cards, then a good synthetic brush like a Cotman will do pretty well in a pinch.
Escoda Prado ain't bad
what size of miniature do you paint with those and what quality of paint job do go for at different miniature sizes?
Generally 28/32mm. All my normal gaming and competition miniatures. The quality varies as per the project, but everything from army to Golden Demon/Crystal Brush.
‘Something I found in the woods’ 😂
Basically, sometimes I really have to put a fine point on "USE ANYTHING" - ;)
Great video vince! Just what I needed! I want to try some new brushes and I think I`ll grab some Raphael`s. Also the staff from my local gaming store recommended 8404 series! Just won our local painting contest with my black knight -> white walker conversion and got Arkhan the Black! So excited to paint him! Have you tried citadel artificer brushes? I heard those are the same as W&N series 7
Raphael 8404 are great for fine point and holding paint, love them. Always use that 'the masters brush cleaner and restorer' soap after each painting session giving it a lukewarm shower via the water tap. If you get paint into the ferrule don't panic, Vallejo do a sable brush restorer (liquid blue colour), leave the brush dipped into the liquid for 4 minutes remove the wash clean with forementioned masters soap via a tap shower.
Excellent, congrats on the award and happy to help. :)
I've got an xs artificer brush. The small belly means you dont have a very long work time with it, but it is awesome for extremely fine detail
Hi again Vince! Hope you are well in these times!
Can you point me online to some crappy synthetic brush megapacks that you use? I've tried many at this point and can't use 95% of the brushes...they either come with lots that aren't rounds or the rounds have no point whatsoever.
Thanks!
I wish I could point you toward a set where I can still get the 8s. They changed the one I have always ordered so it doesn't have the 8s in it. So I am actually searching as well for my new replacement.
Hi Vince, do you have any experience with Warcolours paintbrushes or hear anything about their quality?
I used the first generation, I didn't like them for acrylics as they didn't have much of a belly, but I actually use them for oil paints as they are perfect sables for that purpose.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, makes sense, you get what you pay for. Ughhh, I really don't want to spend over $15 for a good brush, but perhaps there is no choice.
Are you still loving Raphael after 3 years or back to W&N?
I'm using both is the honest answer. :)
Is your blue paint brush just a nylon brush?
Yep, just a cheap multi-pack synthetic.
Is the very large brush what you're glazing with?
Usually yes, the largest brush possible to make it smooth and control the glaze. (so either of the larger brushes).
"Razor. Sharp. Point... mmkay!" 💕💗💘
It's important, mmmkay. ;)
What is a comparable size to that artist brush size 8
Any big brush like that will do, there are generics everywhere, so just something big and cheap that can hold a point. I buy bulk packs from amazon and the like.
How do you do small drybrush areas with such a big brush?
Carefully. ;) - No, I have a smaller version of the same thing, but really, that does 90%+ of my drybrushing.
Awesome video bud. Where do we submit pmp now please ?
It moved to Facebook, if you look at last month's end of month review, you'll see the link.
the mat background is fucking up my eyes lol
Question: You say don’t use the “nice” brush for true metallic paints. What would you use for detailed / controlled application of such paints?
A new sharp synthetic.
@@VinceVenturella makes sense! Thank you
I have searched everywhere for those size artist brushes and can't seem to find them to save my life. A link would be very much appreciated! (I've looked for any brush size in bulk like that and the biggest I found and bought was size 1 but I find them a bit small for getting stuff done.)
Thanks again for another great vid, sorry I don't comment as often anymore. :)
Well, it's a random thing, I just ordered a pack and they didn't have more of these in it (so I ordered a different pack). I will link if it contains them. As they are just random packs, it's always hit or miss. :)
@@VinceVenturella You sir, are awesome. Thanks!
@@robv.johnson6360 still waiting on that link? Lol
@@jrseitz21 I actually don't even remember what we're talking about but no, definitely not still waiting! ;-)
If you have a good link to some nice brushes though I'm always down!
@@robv.johnson6360 if your talking sable hair like natural hair brushes Jackson art supply or blick art supply's would have them. As far as synthetic? It's a disaster. Every brand i tried barely makes 3 days without the famous jhook on the tip.
to bad you dont come to Tennessee
are there any online classes I realize over the internet it's hard but with hangout and video chats now days may not be so bad ?
Oh absolutely, there are many painters whose Patreons have an in-person hangout tier, might be something to look into.
Does anyone use Escoda brushes for miniature painting? I'm just a regular artist but my Escoda versatil comes to such a tiny point, I'd imagine it could be used for all these tiny details.
I have never tried them, that being said, give them a shot and see how they work is usually my take. :)
I have used escoda for a lot of things in various sizes. nice point but have recently used raphael. seem to hold more and lay thinned paint better for me. like and use both though.
what figure is this awesome orc?
He's from Black Sun miniatures. :)
Do you have links to amazon or art store that sells these brands
For the Raphael 8404, I literally just search for that on amazon. People resell through there, so links change all the time, but here is an example of what I mean with the nicer brushes (the cheap brushes are just anything)
www.amazon.com/Raphael-Kolinsky-Sable-Point-Round/dp/B001UN6VL8/ref=sr_1_10?crid=43UYPCTG8YK4&keywords=raphael+8404&qid=1558223480&s=gateway&sprefix=Raphael+%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-10
These might be pretty close to the Artist Brush #8. www.webstaurantstore.com/charles-leonard-73508-black-size-8-round-camel-hair-bristle-artist-brush-pack/328LEO73508.html?Google&GoogleShopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjaqso4SI4wIVF6rsCh10PQDLEAYYASABEgLd5fD_BwE
what is that orc model!?
I don't remember the name, but it's from Big Child creatives, I believe it was in the black sun range.
Had to pause to see what my dog was barking at. (Earbuds work too well sometimes.)
ha, that's funny, sometimes the dogs just barge in and there we are. :)
Oh cripes didn't know washes are bad
Yep, the same action that makes it flow into recesses, also makes it flow into the ferrule of your brush, harden and ruin them. :)
Anyone have luck finding cheap 8s?
My source dried up, but I have found these packs which have 3s, 6s and 10s and they are pretty useful - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KQYC74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@VinceVenturella Awesome thanks mate
If you use an old t-shirt to wipe down your car, you are scratching the paint. Car paint is fragile and thin.
I think the technical term for the pink brush is the "slut brush". It gets all kinda goop all over it. All the time. And whenever you're done with it, just throw it out and get a new one. It isn't a good girl brush. You're not supposed to take care of it forever.
There you go, yes that. :)