Thank goodness you made this video. My battery needed to be replaced before I left town for 3 months. I got home and jumped it, and everything seemed good. After shopping at a few stores, I get home and can't get the key out of the ignition. So it's probably the battery. Last thing I need is to add another $1000 expense on my car. Good thing I decided to look up online and saw your video.
I had the problem on our 2017 Legacy. I called the dealer to see what it would cost to fix. He looked up the VIN and told me Subaru had extended the warranty for this problem. TRY THIS FIRST. They did the repair for no charge!!!
Thank you. I recently experienced the same problem and just last week, I received a notice from Subaru addressing this issue. They extended the Warranty for CVT parking brake switch. This is not a recall, but for those who have this problem, definitely check with the dealership. Good luck and be safe!
I just started having this problem on my 2016 Subaru Outback. I did see the following Service Bulletin 16-112-18R. (Revised May 2022) "This bulletin announces a design change to the CVT select lever (shifter) mechanism in response to isolated customer concerns of not being able to remove the key from the ignition switch when the vehicle is in Park. The cause is contamination of the Park-Range switch internal components." Going to call my dealership and look into getting this serviced.
First off, great video, very helpful, thank you! The below might help some others if they are still having issues after trying this. We had this switch replaced a while back under warranty and the behavior started up again a few years later. I noticed that when I took it apart there was grease on the metal tab and on the nubbin on the shifter. I cleaned it off with contact cleaner, bent the tab, reassembled and...key would not come out. At all. I panicked as the lights and radio all were on and I couldn't make it stop without disconnecting the battery. I then started thinking about the grease I cleaned off and realized it was likely dielectric like you would use on car lightbulbs. I think it was causing the sporadic contact as it wore off from the switch replacement. I went to the parts store and picked up a $2 packet of bulb grease, cleaned the shifter nubbin with light sandpaper and applied a liberal amount of the grease to the tab and the nubbin. Key came right out 10 times in a row. Let's see how it holds up in a field test after my wife has driven it for a few days but very promising. Good luck and buy a Toyota next time!
Kurt - thanks for your insight to the sticking key issue. Your solution was spot-on. Here's a slight twist to your discovery that others might be interested in. I have a 2016 Outback w/ the same key-stuck-in-ignition problem, and never had a problem w/ the key until Sep 2021. A few months prior to the key problem starting, I had a NEW battery installed by O'Reillys. I noticed at that time that the "tech" from O'Reillys didn't clean the obvious corrosion built-up on the positive battery terminal when he installed it. He was talking so much about all his trucks he owned during the battery install, I didn't get a chance to ask him to clean the terminal. I'd just do it myself later, but forgot about it. Fast forward 3 months, to the start of the key ignition sticking problem. Investigating on the web, I found your video above, and it reminded me of the corroded battery terminal. So I cleaned it with a wire brush, thin coated w/petroleum jelly, and lo and behold! The key sticking problem disappeared instantly. I'm guessing the electric switch in the gear shifter, or key ignition lock, is designed w/ little-to-no margin to battery voltage degradation from a weak battery, corroded terminals, or whatever. Calling Subaru service centers was fruitless, btw. One guy said he never heard of the problem, the other dealer didn't return my call to a voicemail. Thanks Kurt! You saved me big bucks and lots of frustration with Subaru dealers.
Google "Warranty Extension for CVT Parking Brake Switch certain 2012-2018 MY Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Crosstrek, WRX and Forester vehicles" I have an appt tomorrow to get my car in as the keys been stuck a couple of times now. All costs should be covered. I have a 2016 Legacy. Will try to update tomorrow after the appt.
I changed the battery but the problem continued. I tool the center console off and without bending any metal contact points the problem went away. I put the center console back and the problem came back. It turns out that on a 2017 Legacy the problem is with the shifter knob. If for whatever reason the knob slips down a bit it will prevent the park lock mechanism from fully engaging and in turn causing the same phenomenon as you described. So for some models perhaps before you go digging into the center console, take the knob off and test the system. Good luck everyone. I had to learn this the hard way with many expletives along the way. Great video by the way, still very informative. Perhaps consider adding this bit as a side note.
Seems like there’s a lot of issues that can cause this problem. Look at your battery terminals to make sure they aren’t corroded or bad ground too. Also some cars got a recall for this so look into it. Thanks’
How did you ultimately fix this? Do you just replace the shifter knob? I have a new battery and have this issue, wondering if the knob is the source of the problem.
@@John-fk4lh I wish i knew. I have if from time to time but my situation happens when the plastic rod mysteriously turns and is no longer releasing the shifter to a full park position. I just do what I described before on periodic basis and at this point i am considering cutting the plastic rod that pushed down when the button is pressed a little bit. I would stay away from any major work in this area unless absolutely necessary. Once i figure it out I will provide an update too.
100% recreated this just now. When i put the car in park but the key is still stuck I can gently lift the shift knob about 2mm and the key comes out. This has been repeatable through all of my weird tests.
@@olowek8what do you mean the plastic rod mysteriously turns? i just started having this issue in my 2016 legacy last night and it started happening after my friend tried to put an aftermarket auto shift knob in my car to replace the oem one. it’s not in my car but when they put back together the oem shift knob, is that plastic rod supposed to be turned a specific way?
Had this problem on a 2016 Subaru Impreza over the summer. I only put in 38000 miles on it and the battery was replaced around 2018. I restart the car and pull the key out immediately once the engine is turned off to release the key. It works most of the time but it made me run late for classes.
I was thinking buying a new battery as you suggested, but decided to called Subaru first. They checked the VIN for my 2017 Forester, said it's covered under extended warrenty. So they'll fix it for free.
I just started experiencing this problem (2016 Outback with 31000 miles). I have the extended warranty and the special extension for this issue ( issued 9/21). Off to repair in a few days. In the meantime you can, I found , push the shift lever “button” three or four times when in park (engine on or off) and the key releases. Best to have wheels straight and wait a few seconds after the vehicle stops to do this. There is an electrical connector located behind the ignition key receptacle. Unhooking that disconnects the shift lever switch from the Ignition. You do have to remove the shroud in back of the steering wheel ( see You Tube video). I would only do that in a pinch. As far as the battery goes, the OEM battery from Subaru is bare minimum to begin with as , I found, their OEM brake pads.
Glad to be of help. Off the dealer tomorrow for the “big fix”, which is a new , entire shift mechanism replacement ( what fool designed this ?). Will update if needed.
my roommate and i have been sitting in her car for about an hour now trying to get her key back. she's had a long day and has been in tears for the majority of this ordeal. your comment has saved us. thank you so much, internet stranger. i hope you have a wonderful life.
@@liz8126 what a nice thing to say. You made my day. So far the “big key fix” has been effective for my Outback. Hopefully ,your car is still within the eight year warranty extension. If not, definitely appeal to Subaru HQ. They often can make exceptions that the dealer won’t offer. Best wishes.
Do you have a link on how to remove that area of the center console where the shift mechanism is at? Installed a new battery and it worked for a couple days but then the issue returned.
My battery checked good at O'Reilly's. But their instrument for checking does not provide the voltage, just a "good" reading...great right? I think the issue then maybe the brake light switch which is on recall. I did however change the brake light switch under the dash myself a few years ago which fixed the same problem I had back then. The current issue with this problem started after I had a spare key made. All of the keys have the same problem with sticking most of the time. The brake light switch is only about $20 and can be replaced your self. Get a couple pillows to lay on while you get under the dash to get. I don't want to take apart the shift mechanism, or the key ignition. The dealerships seem clueless about the inter-relationship between the shifter, the ignition and the brake lights and the interlock. Hmm I wonder if my brake lights are actually working...will go and check that now. Alright, brake lights worked...called O' Rielly's again, the worker there said their gadget can check voltage so come back. I went back and the battery seemed to be checking out with 12.5V. I had stopped and started the car a few times during the testing and it was observed that when the key was stuck the voltage in the battery was belowq 12V. This is because some items are still on , dash lights for example, even though the car engine is not running. Replaced the battery and so far the problem is resolved. Also consider this...if when you turn the ignition off (part way) and you have your foot on the brake, and/or the headlights switch is on you are diverting voltage that could be going to the ignition interlock switch. SO you might experiment with voltage conservation by ensuring your foot is off the brake (you should be in park) and the headlights are off when you turn the car off...this might help you see that the issue is related to the battery. When the issue is the brake light switch then you will have 3 dash lights on simultaneously to tell you that it needs replacement. The brake light switch is important as it controls the anti-lock braking ability of the vehicle which can save your life if needed. SO you probably don't want to ignore this issue. Ok...after driving the vehicle few miles around town here and there the issue is happening again, but not as much, ugh. Will update after I figure out what to do next...
Just like you said, my key was getting stuck in my vehicle, and I was also having problems with my battery. I replaced a year old battery, and it was fine for a bit but it’s coming back more and more frequently once again. Could it be a fuse issue?
Could see this as a Subura ‘bad battery’ detector. But constructively: if you have a little battery jumper box, fully charged, hook it up as directed. If your key now pops out properly you’ll know the problem is electrical not mechanical. Likely new battery time. If the key is still held in it’s either a mechanics of the electrical system, that little tab not making contact, or shifter trouble.
I’m done paying off my 2017 Impreza within a year and it just started doing this . So aggravating. It’s only got 20k miles (I only drive it to work and back ), Trial and error I guess.
Excellent video, I crashed my Impreza and afterwards the key was stuck in the ignition, come to find out the battery exploded upon impact so no voltage to the shifter switch that releases the key.
I just experienced the same issue with my 2013 Impreza. I saw someone say turn the steering wheel to the left and the key actually slipped out. My battery is one year over warranty but let’s see how long that lasts
Brand new battery, mine is linked to the shifter “trigger”. I have to push the button in several times before I hear a click in the dash and the key is released
Same issue, 2016 suburu impreza. Mechanic said battery read fine so made appt. at dealership. Before taking in, saw this video. Decided to buy new batt anyway since I was still using batt that came in car when new. Called AAA and they came out and measured and said batt was not fine (one number read okay and the other about half of what it should be reading.). Problem went away first test drive after new batt installed. Based on other comments, I see problem may return and if it does, I will ask dealer about that extended warranty.
That happened to me on my 2013 crosstrek with manual trans. I just move the steering wheel whichever way it will turn (usually to the left) and it pulls right out.
Subaru has issued warranty extension for battery drain issue caused by DCM and Parking break issue that causes key to get stuck in the ignition. Check with Subaru for warranty extension before you pay for either of these to be fixed.
As can be surmised from other replies, this video is somewhat obsolete. Although a weak battery can exacerbate the problem, the basic cause was a poor switch design, which allowed lubricant to enter and foul the electrical contacts. Subaru now uses a better design, hopefully not subject to this problem. Subaru first issued a service bulletin, and after the problem became sufficiently widespread with owners complaining, issued a recall for the affected model years. People who previously paid to replace the switch may be entitled to reimbursement.
I replaced the brake lught switch a couple years ago on my Impreza as the 3 lights on the dash display were illuminated and tge key was sticking. The switch costs me about $20 and I did tge work myself. This was before tge recall occurred for the switch. A dew weeks sgo I had a new key made and now all 3 of my keys have periodic sticking issues. Tge dash lights i dicating a faulty brake light switch are not illuminated. Next step I will check the battery (GREAT IDEA!!). Then get dealer to change out tge brake light switch if that doesn’t work. Ty!
Yes, Subaru's are junk. I have a '14 Forester and I take very good care of it and have all services done properly. But it's still falling apart. And has cost me nearly $5K in repairs in the 9 years I've owned it. 1) Rear suspension springs, bad. 2) CVT transmission service very expensive, 3) Brakes make of junk replaced at low mileage. 4) Front end alignment for some stupid reason, expensive fix. 5) Interior fabrics made of garbage, falling apart, carpet also cheap garbage. 6) Ignition key getting stuck in ignition. 7) dashboard material curling up, pulling away from surface (and I always keep it out of the sun!). 8) Interior door handles getting loose. 9) head gaskets leaking slightly, loosing engine coolant slowly. 10) Rear wheel bearings failed ($1300 repair). 11) Front wheel bearings failed (another $1300). These cars are junk!! Junk I say!! I also have an '05 Chevy pickup that I bought new in '05, and it's NEVER given me any trouble of any kind, so I have something that's actually very good to compare this Subaru to. I will never buy another Subaru once I get rid of this money pit.
This video didn’t do a damn thing. Why is everyone so excited? Check your battery cmon jesus. Worthless. You need to go into depth on what it is inside because it’s clearly a mechanism not due to any voltage issue-my battery is fine and this still persists. On to the next hopefully someone with a bit more insight
If you found this helpful consider sending me a Super Thanks with the icon below the video, ❤💰 I will buy a Coffee with it! ☕
Buying and replacing the battery did not solve the problem on my 2017 Subaru legacy.
You saved me during a mental breakdown at a gas station. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Thank goodness you made this video. My battery needed to be replaced before I left town for 3 months. I got home and jumped it, and everything seemed good. After shopping at a few stores, I get home and can't get the key out of the ignition. So it's probably the battery. Last thing I need is to add another $1000 expense on my car. Good thing I decided to look up online and saw your video.
This is the best video of all time. Clear, concise, and hella informative!
I had the problem on our 2017 Legacy. I called the dealer to see what it would cost to fix. He looked up the VIN and told me Subaru had extended the warranty for this problem. TRY THIS FIRST. They did the repair for no charge!!!
Thank you. I recently experienced the same problem and just last week, I received a notice from Subaru addressing this issue. They extended the Warranty for CVT parking brake switch. This is not a recall, but for those who have this problem, definitely check with the dealership. Good luck and be safe!
Thanks glad to help!
Yo you literally just saved me from an anxiety attack thank you so much bro 😭😭😭😂😂😂
Haha no problem
I just started having this problem on my 2016 Subaru Outback. I did see the following Service Bulletin 16-112-18R. (Revised May 2022)
"This bulletin announces a design change to the CVT select lever (shifter) mechanism in response to
isolated customer concerns of not being able to remove the key from the ignition switch when the
vehicle is in Park. The cause is contamination of the Park-Range switch internal components."
Going to call my dealership and look into getting this serviced.
This helped! Thank you- before watching the video I didn't know it was related to being in park. 🙏🏽👏🏽🙌🏽
First off, great video, very helpful, thank you! The below might help some others if they are still having issues after trying this.
We had this switch replaced a while back under warranty and the behavior started up again a few years later. I noticed that when I took it apart there was grease on the metal tab and on the nubbin on the shifter. I cleaned it off with contact cleaner, bent the tab, reassembled and...key would not come out. At all. I panicked as the lights and radio all were on and I couldn't make it stop without disconnecting the battery. I then started thinking about the grease I cleaned off and realized it was likely dielectric like you would use on car lightbulbs. I think it was causing the sporadic contact as it wore off from the switch replacement. I went to the parts store and picked up a $2 packet of bulb grease, cleaned the shifter nubbin with light sandpaper and applied a liberal amount of the grease to the tab and the nubbin. Key came right out 10 times in a row. Let's see how it holds up in a field test after my wife has driven it for a few days but very promising. Good luck and buy a Toyota next time!
Kurt - thanks for your insight to the sticking key issue. Your solution was spot-on. Here's a slight twist to your discovery that others might be interested in.
I have a 2016 Outback w/ the same key-stuck-in-ignition problem, and never had a problem w/ the key until Sep 2021. A few months prior to the key problem starting, I had a NEW battery installed by O'Reillys. I noticed at that time that the "tech" from O'Reillys didn't clean the obvious corrosion built-up on the positive battery terminal when he installed it. He was talking so much about all his trucks he owned during the battery install, I didn't get a chance to ask him to clean the terminal. I'd just do it myself later, but forgot about it. Fast forward 3 months, to the start of the key ignition sticking problem. Investigating on the web, I found your video above, and it reminded me of the corroded battery terminal. So I cleaned it with a wire brush, thin coated w/petroleum jelly, and lo and behold! The key sticking problem disappeared instantly. I'm guessing the electric switch in the gear shifter, or key ignition lock, is designed w/ little-to-no margin to battery voltage degradation from a weak battery, corroded terminals, or whatever. Calling Subaru service centers was fruitless, btw. One guy said he never heard of the problem, the other dealer didn't return my call to a voicemail.
Thanks Kurt! You saved me big bucks and lots of frustration with Subaru dealers.
That’s a good observation about the corroded terminals! Thanks!
Dude O'Reilly "technicians" install batteries for FREE, what would you expect from a Free Battery Installation? A Tune Up and Tire Rotation too??
Helpful comment!
Thanks dude! You saved my butt with the whole push in the metal "nubbin" comment.
Google "Warranty Extension for CVT Parking Brake Switch
certain 2012-2018 MY Legacy, Outback, Impreza, Crosstrek, WRX and Forester vehicles" I have an appt tomorrow to get my car in as the keys been stuck a couple of times now. All costs should be covered. I have a 2016 Legacy. Will try to update tomorrow after the appt.
I changed the battery but the problem continued. I tool the center console off and without bending any metal contact points the problem went away. I put the center console back and the problem came back. It turns out that on a 2017 Legacy the problem is with the shifter knob. If for whatever reason the knob slips down a bit it will prevent the park lock mechanism from fully engaging and in turn causing the same phenomenon as you described. So for some models perhaps before you go digging into the center console, take the knob off and test the system. Good luck everyone. I had to learn this the hard way with many expletives along the way. Great video by the way, still very informative. Perhaps consider adding this bit as a side note.
Seems like there’s a lot of issues that can cause this problem. Look at your battery terminals to make sure they aren’t corroded or bad ground too. Also some cars got a recall for this so look into it. Thanks’
How did you ultimately fix this? Do you just replace the shifter knob? I have a new battery and have this issue, wondering if the knob is the source of the problem.
@@John-fk4lh I wish i knew. I have if from time to time but my situation happens when the plastic rod mysteriously turns and is no longer releasing the shifter to a full park position. I just do what I described before on periodic basis and at this point i am considering cutting the plastic rod that pushed down when the button is pressed a little bit. I would stay away from any major work in this area unless absolutely necessary. Once i figure it out I will provide an update too.
100% recreated this just now. When i put the car in park but the key is still stuck I can gently lift the shift knob about 2mm and the key comes out. This has been repeatable through all of my weird tests.
@@olowek8what do you mean the plastic rod mysteriously turns? i just started having this issue in my 2016 legacy last night and it started happening after my friend tried to put an aftermarket auto shift knob in my car to replace the oem one. it’s not in my car but when they put back together the oem shift knob, is that plastic rod supposed to be turned a specific way?
CC M's comment did it for me. Subaru extended the Warranty for CVT parking brake switch. Seeing Subaru in a few weeks to get it fixed. Thanks!
Had this problem on a 2016 Subaru Impreza over the summer. I only put in 38000 miles on it and the battery was replaced around 2018. I restart the car and pull the key out immediately once the engine is turned off to release the key. It works most of the time but it made me run late for classes.
Dealer quotes $1000 for their mistake in design. Sad how the automotive industry has taken a backseat in quality.
Dealers don't design the cars they just sell and service them so it's not the dealer's fault there is a issue it's the manufacturers fault
Lmao it’s 60 dollar part and hr of time
I was thinking buying a new battery as you suggested, but decided to called Subaru first. They checked the VIN for my 2017 Forester, said it's covered under extended warrenty. So they'll fix it for free.
Nice!
Ah. I have the same Forester w this problem...though it resolved with a 3 hour road trip recharge; may still call Subaru.
I just started experiencing this problem (2016 Outback with 31000 miles). I have the extended warranty and the special extension for this issue ( issued 9/21). Off to repair in a few days. In the meantime you can, I found , push the shift lever “button” three or four times when in park (engine on or off) and the key releases. Best to have wheels straight and wait a few seconds after the vehicle stops to do this. There is an electrical connector located behind the ignition key receptacle. Unhooking that disconnects the shift lever switch from the Ignition. You do have to remove the shroud in back of the steering wheel ( see You Tube video). I would only do that in a pinch. As far as the battery goes, the OEM battery from Subaru is bare minimum to begin with as , I found, their OEM brake pads.
Thanks, clicking the shift button worked like a charm!
Glad to be of help. Off the dealer tomorrow for the “big fix”, which is a new , entire shift mechanism replacement ( what fool designed this ?). Will update if needed.
Big fix done. In at 840 AM and out the door at 1020. No charge as covered under extended warranty until late September for my car.
my roommate and i have been sitting in her car for about an hour now trying to get her key back. she's had a long day and has been in tears for the majority of this ordeal. your comment has saved us. thank you so much, internet stranger. i hope you have a wonderful life.
@@liz8126 what a nice thing to say. You made my day. So far the “big key fix” has been effective for my Outback. Hopefully ,your car is still within the eight year warranty extension. If not, definitely appeal to Subaru HQ. They often can make exceptions that the dealer won’t offer. Best wishes.
Do you have a link on how to remove that area of the center console where the shift mechanism is at? Installed a new battery and it worked for a couple days but then the issue returned.
No I don’t, I’ll try and find pne
@@KurtofTrades Any luck finding one?
My battery checked good at O'Reilly's. But their instrument for checking does not provide the voltage, just a "good" reading...great right? I think the issue then maybe the brake light switch which is on recall. I did however change the brake light switch under the dash myself a few years ago which fixed the same problem I had back then. The current issue with this problem started after I had a spare key made. All of the keys have the same problem with sticking most of the time. The brake light switch is only about $20 and can be replaced your self. Get a couple pillows to lay on while you get under the dash to get. I don't want to take apart the shift mechanism, or the key ignition. The dealerships seem clueless about the inter-relationship between the shifter, the ignition and the brake lights and the interlock. Hmm I wonder if my brake lights are actually working...will go and check that now. Alright, brake lights worked...called O' Rielly's again, the worker there said their gadget can check voltage so come back. I went back and the battery seemed to be checking out with 12.5V. I had stopped and started the car a few times during the testing and it was observed that when the key was stuck the voltage in the battery was belowq 12V. This is because some items are still on , dash lights for example, even though the car engine is not running. Replaced the battery and so far the problem is resolved. Also consider this...if when you turn the ignition off (part way) and you have your foot on the brake, and/or the headlights switch is on you are diverting voltage that could be going to the ignition interlock switch. SO you might experiment with voltage conservation by ensuring your foot is off the brake (you should be in park) and the headlights are off when you turn the car off...this might help you see that the issue is related to the battery. When the issue is the brake light switch then you will have 3 dash lights on simultaneously to tell you that it needs replacement. The brake light switch is important as it controls the anti-lock braking ability of the vehicle which can save your life if needed. SO you probably don't want to ignore this issue. Ok...after driving the vehicle few miles around town here and there the issue is happening again, but not as much, ugh. Will update after I figure out what to do next...
Dude! You’re a lifesaver. My man!
Thank God I have a 5MT! Well done as always man!
Thanks! New battery completely fixed mine.
@@KurtofTrades sure thing. Easy fixes are the best fixes.
It happens to them also.
@Kurt of Trades it did for me until 3 month later I've had the same issues ever since
Just like you said, my key was getting stuck in my vehicle, and I was also having problems with my battery. I replaced a year old battery, and it was fine for a bit but it’s coming back more and more frequently once again. Could it be a fuse issue?
Not likely, most likely need the parking switch replaced
Could see this as a Subura ‘bad battery’ detector. But constructively: if you have a little battery jumper box, fully charged, hook it up as directed. If your key now pops out properly you’ll know the problem is electrical not mechanical. Likely new battery time. If the key is still held in it’s either a mechanics of the electrical system, that little tab not making contact, or shifter trouble.
I’m done paying off my 2017 Impreza within a year and it just started doing this . So aggravating. It’s only got 20k miles (I only drive it to work and back ), Trial and error I guess.
Looks like many have found out that Subaru extended the warranties for 2017 models with this issue. I am going to call and see myself.
Excellent video, I crashed my Impreza and afterwards the key was stuck in the ignition, come to find out the battery exploded upon impact so no voltage to the shifter switch that releases the key.
Glad to help!
I just experienced the same issue with my 2013 Impreza. I saw someone say turn the steering wheel to the left and the key actually slipped out. My battery is one year over warranty but let’s see how long that lasts
Thanks!
Thanks for the super! Let me know if you want a free bumper sticker from my spreadshop! It’s on my channel page
You saved my butt, thank you
Brand new battery, mine is linked to the shifter “trigger”. I have to push the button in several times before I hear a click in the dash and the key is released
Same issue, 2016 suburu impreza. Mechanic said battery read fine so made appt. at dealership. Before taking in, saw this video. Decided to buy new batt anyway since I was still using batt that came in car when new. Called AAA and they came out and measured and said batt was not fine (one number read okay and the other about half of what it should be reading.). Problem went away first test drive after new batt installed. Based on other comments, I see problem may return and if it does, I will ask dealer about that extended warranty.
Any problems since?
@@VictorPoulin yes. Problem returned. Got it into dealer just before extended warranty expired and they installed fix. No problems since then.
Thanks for the knowledge and your advice was helpful
😎👍
Thank you!! Just happened to me in my 2017 Subaru Forester. Took the shift know out of park and back again and the key slid out.
Took too long explaining that it might be the battery, was looking more for a tip on how to remove the key.
Unscrew the plastic under the dash and unplug the wire
That happened to me on my 2013 crosstrek with manual trans. I just move the steering wheel whichever way it will turn (usually to the left) and it pulls right out.
I fucking hate this shit. Especially when you’re frustrated and had a bad day.
Subaru has issued warranty extension for battery drain issue caused by DCM and Parking break issue that causes key to get stuck in the ignition. Check with Subaru for warranty extension before you pay for either of these to be fixed.
Totally saved me right now
Thanks for the video but in my 2017 Outback it’s happening with a brand new battery. Guess I’ll just keep jiggling.
how do we get to the tab
Gotta take the trim panels all off
Great idea! I will try it
Hope it works!
As can be surmised from other replies, this video is somewhat obsolete. Although a weak battery can exacerbate the problem, the basic cause was a poor switch design, which allowed lubricant to enter and foul the electrical contacts. Subaru now uses a better design, hopefully not subject to this problem. Subaru first issued a service bulletin, and after the problem became sufficiently widespread with owners complaining, issued a recall for the affected model years. People who previously paid to replace the switch may be entitled to reimbursement.
I will agree with you but I changed my battery 2 years ago and the problem completely went away
I replaced the brake lught switch a couple years ago on my Impreza as the 3 lights on the dash display were illuminated and tge key was sticking. The switch costs me about $20 and I did tge work myself. This was before tge recall occurred for the switch. A dew weeks sgo I had a new key made and now all 3 of my keys have periodic sticking issues. Tge dash lights i dicating a faulty brake light switch are not illuminated. Next step I will check the battery (GREAT IDEA!!). Then get dealer to change out tge brake light switch if that doesn’t work. Ty!
Which switch? You talking about the stop light switch which this isn't related to. So no.
Where can I find the info on this recall? I need Subaru to fix their faulty design.
What's the part number?
Subaru has extended the warranty to 8 years on this matter. "Warrenty Extension for CVT Parking Brake Switch" has been issued in 2022.
Worked for me too. Going to get it fixed in a few weeks. Extension runs out by end of December 2022 in Canada
sometimes you just have to push the gear stick to the left when in park..
But my batteries in good shape
i just left it in the ignition 2 clicks up for 2 minutes and it came out.
Thank you Kurt.
Glad to help!
I changed my battery and cleaned out corrosion and it didn't fix it :(
Watched the whole video just to look down and see the car was turned off but not in park lol
Thanks mate
Also a problem on Foresters
I fixed mine by disengaging my hand brake and then taking my key out then re-engaging it.
My problem began after I got a new battery.
Hmm wrong battery maybe? Also could be the slide connector bent in the mechanism. Also could be something else too.
Sorry I have a new battery
Subaru released a tsb for it I would give them a call they might replace it for free.
OMG... 3 minutes video to just say... replace the battery?? BTW... this is NOT the case. I have a brand new Battery and it till getting stuck
These cars are garbage, my family’s 2013 Impreza is a ticking time bomb of a money pit. Countless issues and things to replace
Yes, Subaru's are junk. I have a '14 Forester and I take very good care of it and have all services done properly. But it's still falling apart. And has cost me nearly $5K in repairs in the 9 years I've owned it. 1) Rear suspension springs, bad. 2) CVT transmission service very expensive, 3) Brakes make of junk replaced at low mileage. 4) Front end alignment for some stupid reason, expensive fix. 5) Interior fabrics made of garbage, falling apart, carpet also cheap garbage. 6) Ignition key getting stuck in ignition. 7) dashboard material curling up, pulling away from surface (and I always keep it out of the sun!). 8) Interior door handles getting loose. 9) head gaskets leaking slightly, loosing engine coolant slowly. 10) Rear wheel bearings failed ($1300 repair). 11) Front wheel bearings failed (another $1300). These cars are junk!! Junk I say!! I also have an '05 Chevy pickup that I bought new in '05, and it's NEVER given me any trouble of any kind, so I have something that's actually very good to compare this Subaru to. I will never buy another Subaru once I get rid of this money pit.
No sound on video
This video didn’t do a damn thing. Why is everyone so excited? Check your battery cmon jesus. Worthless. You need to go into depth on what it is inside because it’s clearly a mechanism not due to any voltage issue-my battery is fine and this still persists. On to the next hopefully someone with a bit more insight
Worst suggestion ever
Thanks!
This was not helpful because you said nothing about how to get the presently stuck key out.
The EZ fix? Trade in your Subaru and never buy a vehicle with this ASININE DESIGN ever again
A bunch of info we didn’t ask for, get to the freakin point dude