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@@PaulRosenow brother Paul your making me jealous! A Patron in the discord has a Saturn 2 and the prints look so crisp!! I hope you have printed plenty on it!
Just this: don't be scared of 3D printing. Some people who are against 3D printing will always try to pound into your head how difficult it is, how often prints fail (which was only true for the very first printers lol) and how much more time consuming it is. It is not difficult at all, but as any novel machinery, you will have to learn the process. You can expect good prints right away if you don't make it overly complicated. Yes prints will fail from time to time, but 99% of the time it is due to bad supports. There are some super easy tutotials out there to optimize the process and software will only get better, to a point at which you won't even have to worry about supports anymore. That 3D printing is time consuming is an absolute myth. Sure, you're not as quick as a guy who runs into a TT shop and drops the better part of his weekly salary onto the counter, but if you are patient and are sensible about printing time, you'll have printed an entire army in a few days. While you are out with your family/friends enjoying life, the printer is happily beeping and booping away and when you return, the model should be just about done. Now you only have to wash and cure it and youre done. You know what is actually time consuming? Popping plastic parts out of a grid and meticulously glueing them together. With 3D printing, most of what you print comes out in one go and is thus less prone to breaking/popping off.
Well said! The old time consuming argument will be phased out soon enough with new printers being made! I think there is even one commercially that cures while it prints! So it won't be long until we will get it in retail for a reasonable price.
I got a Mars 3 pro recently, and I was expecting a week of fails until I started printing good looking minis. Printed a Cones of Calibration on the recommended settings, and it told me the exposure time was too high, so I lowered it a bit, and it worked perfectly. Not one fail due to the machine since, only 2 or 3 because I broke some basic rules like scaling down a pre-supported mini etc.
@@dylangajewski Ventilation will depend mostly on which resin you use. I used Elegoo Grey ABS like resin first and it definitely gave off a smell and fumes that were unpleasant to be around. I had to keep my door closed or the smell would get into the rest of the house. The next resin I tried was Anycubic standard black resin and that basically just give off a bit of a smell, and I can leave my door open without bothering anyone. As for noise, that depends on the printer. I'm sure it's something that they are working on improving, as being able to have a 3d printer that can just sit in your bedroom and run while you sleep is the dream. Again, I have a Mars 3 Pro, and it's pretty loud in my opinion. There is fan that is constantly blowing which isn't quiet, but the loudest noise comes from the threaded rod that spins to lift the build plate up and down. The faster it moves, the louder it is, so theoretically I could reduce all the movement speeds and it might be tolerable. But yeah, in the quiet of the night you could probably hear it from one room over, so a room that wasn't directly connected to a bedroom would be idea. But one important issue about printing at night is temperature. The colder it is, the thicker the resin is and this can cause issues. Also quick changes in temperature can create lines in your prints (so next to a radiator is a bad idea. 20C is the "ideal" temperature.
For failed prints stuck to the fep, I put a piece of support material I can get a good hold on and hold it in place it in the corner while I run a "print" of a box that's my full plate size by 1mm without the build plate attached. When it's done pull up the supports and along with it comes a sheet of cured resin containing everything that was stuck.
A easier way at least on elegoo machines is the tank clean function I do the same with the support in the vat but run the tank clean for 60 secs and then just peel it off! It may be worthwhile to check your machine.
The Mars series is what I was looking into, but it's because I read an article saying it was the absolute best beginner printer for miniatures and it's in my price range you could get a mars 2 pro for 135 bucks on Black Friday but apparently the small build size is the only thing separating it from the rest of the pack
You can also overcome the small build plate by cutting larger models into pieces then supergluing them together and filling in the seams with some putty and sandpaper!
Mars 2 Pro bro here. I've run a shit load of resin thru it and I've found that the Fast + Tenacious is indeed awesome. Edit: microfiber cloths are incredibly useful for cleaning your vat and stuff.
would you go back to any other resin after using the fast+tenacious? Yes microfibres are a must have!! I missed out on a few obvious to me things that i'm kicking myself for now!
@@battlebrothersam I don't think I would go back unless I had to. It's so much more resilient and I've had more consistent results with it. Also the prints just look so much nicer with the navy grey.
How do you use the micro fiber cloths? Is it just to get the remainder of the resin out of the vat? Or do you mean using them when you're actually washing the vat? Do they get caked with resin quickly? Do you clean them or just toss them after? I'm getting some supplies to get started and I've not heard this suggestion before so I want to know if i need to pick them up or not haha
@@brianp6859 OK so I use them after a good cleaning out with a wash bottle full of alcohol. Basically I wipe out the corners of the vat and surface of the FEP with the microfiber cloth to get rid of any leftover before a FEP change or after a big print fail or whatever. They are about the only thing that won't scratch the FEP. I also use them to clean the plate, my silicone spatula, and my plastic razor without fear of leaving little bits of paper towel or anything on them. Basically if a tool is going into the vat at any time it only gets cleaned with microfiber cloth. Also I use one that is kept clean to sit the vat on when I need to futz with something, because the Mars 2 Pro doesn't have feet on the vat so the FEP sits directly on whatever you put it which can scratch the heck out of it. I think most newer models have feet on the vat so that might not be a concern. At any time I have one dirty cloth that I am using to wipe down the plate and occasionally clean the vat, and one clean cloth that only acts as a mat for the vat when i need to set it down for leveling or whatever. Once the dirty one is gross as hell I lay it out in the sun to harden up the resin and then it goes in the hazardous waste trash.
I can think of a few things. Paper towels - you WILL spill or at least drip resin and need to clean things up. Kitchen rolls will do, but I'd pick up some big blue "shop" rolls, like the ones you see in garages. Microfibre cloths - at some point you'll want to clean your resin vat or your screen and you don't want to use abrasive paper towels that will leave microscratches that will degrade quality. I've found disposable floor wipes do a great job. A funnel and a set of paper paint filters - when you get a failed print (and you will) you might be left with fragments of cured resin floating free in the vat, which can damage your FEP film and even your screen. So you'll want to pour the unused resin in the vat back into the bottle, through the filter which will remove any solid chunks. Coffee filters & old 2l soft drink bottles - once you've used IPA for cleaning for a while it will go very cloudy with resin particles. You can recycle this IPA by pouring it into empty clear plastic bottles and putting it somewhere in direct sunlight for a couple of weeks (even UK sunlight). The sun's UV slowly cures the resin which sinks to the bottom leaving the clear IPA. After a while you can decant the IPA through the coffee filter for reuse. I've got about a 50% recovery rate on my used IPA, which is better than nothing for not much work. The "baller" option for this would be a full distillation setup, which I've seen some people try, however boiled IPA vapours are a bit explody, so it's not recommended unless you really know what you're doing and have somewhere safe to do it.
I've been consuming 3d printing videos lately, saw a pretty good one about using several layers of cheese cloth to help get out the majority of the resin from the IPA and then running it through another process using cheapo filters which gets it looking pretty good, I think the guy was getting back about, I want to say, 80% of his IPA atleast.
Bought my first printer yesterday and can't wait for it to arrive. Gonna be printing all the things now! Thanks for the vids and advice for getting into this hobby
I started with an LD-002r which has worked great. Great price for entry then after 6 months got an halot-lite for the bigger build plate. They have been really good printers and I usually don’t have many failures but I usually buy cheap resin and have since learned you get what you pay for when it comes to resin. I love your channel!
How necessary/important is a mask and/or a grow tent or other ventilation feature for the resin fumes? I wear gloves when dealing with mine of course, but using the Elegoo 8k resin it doesn't really have that bad of a smell. It's in our office, since that's the warmest room in the house, and I use the cover when it's printing. The Saturn 2's mini air filter also seems to do a pretty good job of filtering the air inside the printer housing.
An aptly timed video Brother Sam! I just picked up a new anycubic mono 4k printer because it was selling super cheap on the second hand market. Wasn't the printer I had planned on but for the price it was a no brainer. Got some resin and a wash and cure station showing up today and tomorrow and this video will give me a good list of stuff to pick up today while I wait. I also ordered the anycubic water washable resin+. Couldn't find any RUclips reviews of it so we'll see how it stacks up compared to the elegoo water washable that there are a millions reviews on
Perfect timing brother! From what I gather they are near identical keep me updated on it I always like to hear people's experiences with resin I haven't tried!
Thanks brother, i haven't yet tried it but I plan to hopefully later in the year! at the moment it's a bit too much out of my budget, the pictures ive seen of models printed with these 2 mixed have so much detail in the models and also seen someone bend a sword almost over 90 degrees but i'll have to try it myself
How do you dispose of the excess IPA after cleaning prints? Should you put it in a container and then in a cure station, to cure any remaining bits of resin and then let the remaining fluid evaporate outside or something?
3d printing is very simple now 😁 I just got some new Meths (much cheaper than normal alcohol) 5 liters was 28 euro. Have most of my HH bits printed off now as well hehe. Again printing is so easy these days. Took me a day or so to get my settings right and I am still using these same settings almost a year later! I have the Mars 3.
@@battlebrothersam I think it's several reason they think it's alot like FDM that is much more fiddley also the fact again they haven't a clue 🤣 and somehow think it is hard and complex. Also yeah it's much cheaper to get it is very common usage does the same job. I got it from a big company got it delivered so it was nice I woke up to it there ha
Thanks for all the great videos!. I'm waiting to buy a 4k or 8k resin printer and have been doing research for weeks now. This might be a noob question here.. but.. what resolution would the genuine GW 40k minis in terms of detail equivalent if compared to 3d resin printers ? 8k? Or 4-6k?? 16k? I know it's two different techniques injector mould vs 3d print so isn't a perfect comparison etc.
I have an original Saturn and a Saturn 2 that I purchased a couple of months ago. The Saturn 2 is even better than the Saturn. I have only had one file fail to print, and that was due to improper supports. Once I got it figured out, the file printed without a problem. The 8K resolution is absolutely amazing.
looking to get a saturn 3 ultra with the ultimate aim of printing a warlord once i learn enough to do so. Is this a good choice and will it print all the parts or will some need to be cut, all help welcomed as im a noob to this and im only getting into this after watching many of your vids.
Pretty comprehensive guide. Nothing much more to add. That was a smug and sly pointer behind you for the bigger Prints. Love people sticking it to GW with these little gestures.
I'm looking to get into 3D printing for minis and such and was wondering why you would need a grow tent? Is it to help keep it warm or something? Good video.
Great video! I would have put the Elegoo Water-Washable Resin in the "Budget" option since you don't have to buy IPA and can just wash your prints in the sink.
I would recommend trying out the abs, water washable did seem to show more detail in fairness but I dropped a few models like I usually do and the abs ones survived where the water washable didn't.
Can i print big buss dragons and terrin with saturn or should i go bigger? Also is it toxicity difference in different resins, and, do u Use goggles and breathing mask
I bought a pack of PFA (FEP 2.0) six months ago, but since I learned how to take care of the FEP, I'm still using the original FEP that came with my Saturn 2 - that was nearly a year ago! I'm almost looking forward to replacing the film, but it's got months of life left in it yet.
I have a Prusa MK3S+ but plan to get a Saturn 2 if there is a Black Friday deal going on, otherwise, maybe with a Christmas bonus from work. I'm just finishing up building my big bench enclosure for my Prusa, and future 3D print tools. I'm in Canada, so I have the living space to build big hobby benches. If GW sends letters threatening someone who designed their own models (not recasts which I do think should be illegal, it's basically forgery) should tell GW that they'll see them in court, because GW will never go to court over every designer. If you can show you created original work, even if inspired by something else, it's still a unique piece of artwork, and protected under law. That's why there hasn't been any court cases, because GW has no basis for their threats. Otherwise, they could go sue Blizzard for Starcraft and Warcraft, because those started as GW product designs (fun history story).
I'll be joining you on black friday stalking the amazon page brother! lol you could have a printing farm! I want to get a FDM printer sometime in the future.
for an even cheaper obtion for a printer i recomend the Mars 2 MONO..."the Green one"(ca 100 bucks)...basicly the same printer as the mars 2 pro (1cm less build height) got mine and a wash&cure and all that i needed (gloves ,IpA ,2xresin ect) for under 300..🙂
Laugh at me if you wan, but I bought a good/used resin printer from elegoo, it's the saturn 4k one. It was 209 compared to 400. I bought water washable resin on a budget, picked up 20ft of 405 nm UV LEDS, and I picked up a box of nitrile gloves. I have a padded box I'm going to cover in aluminium tape and put the leds in a giant spiral inside
The mono 4k is 289 USD (with no offers) and the mono X is 529 (right now they are both on offer for about 40 percent off tho Edit: the offer ends in 1 Hour lol
This video is great. I've started about month ago. Already used down 1 liter of resin :) Learning a lot like submerging prints in warm water to remove supports. Now I know it's about 40C, above that it might severly damage prints. Started with mars 3 pro. What I would like to know is if that plant growing tent without fan works well? I was thinking about getting one because my apartment smells for 2-3 days after printing and it's really bad :D
Thanks! Yeah it worked well for me without fans, I just opened the window when I opened the tent because all the smells were stuck in there lol I've started using elegoo air purifiers for the printers but haven't used them enough to make a recommendation
I would like to recommend an anycubic eco resin ( which is water washable). The pros are that everyone has easy access to water, it is less toxic, there are some interesting color choices, secret less curing esp5 with transparent resin and you spare yourself from inhaling alcohol. As for the brittleness it is up to everyone 's handling of the miniatures.
@@battlebrothersam It is understandable that each of us can only share personal experiences, and some times this is biased, but although I had some drop accidents I found it easy to reattach broken parts with some fresh resin on the spot and recuring under direct uv light.
@@UnknownEntity334 I am not an expert about toxicity. I moved on to elegoo plant based translucent green resin because it seems to beore durable to accidental falls of my printed miniatures
@@battlebrothersam it is cheaper, but not that much, at least in my country. Most important not that smelly, IPA for me is the bigger issue than the resin itself. :)
@@DiavloPL Find your nearest Polmos and ask them if they produce ethanol based paint thinners. It is a byproduct from vodka production which doesn't meet purity regulations for food products.
I find a very hot sponge on the screen after a resin spill works wonders getting cured resin off. Leave on for a few minutes the resin will go soft and flakes or peels off with almost no effort.
8" or 10" carbon filter and blower to filter your air. All steps in the process: printing and post-printing, degassing, etc. generate fumes and VOCs. Purify your air and pipe the cleaner air out of your space. I 3D printed an adapter and pipe the air out of the basement window.
Do you mean mixing 2 different resins together? Like the siraya tenacious and a standard resin? You'd print valuation tests in 0.5 secs increments in exposure time starting from. 2.5
I have an Elegoo Saturn S, I haven't printed my first object yet, the problem I am running into is trying to make sure I don't have islands when I print.
No its not needed only if your sensitive to the resin I have mine for days where it gives me headaches but its mostly the alcohol when cleaning! Some people wear one when they are near the open printer.
You have inspired me to buy a 3d printer, It arrives tomorrow and went for the mars 3 pro. I cannot wait. Finally all of my D&D mini s and Warhammer will be so much cheaper.
If your planning to sell it then yes its illegal, I actually have another video where I address this! It's the top questions asked about 3d printing for warhammer
Is there anything I missed?
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Have you picked up a Saturn 2 yet? I've had mine for a while now and its incredible.
@@PaulRosenow brother Paul your making me jealous! A Patron in the discord has a Saturn 2 and the prints look so crisp!! I hope you have printed plenty on it!
@@battlebrothersam Are there any alternative materials of someone wouldn't want to use resin?
@@randomidoit9605 no
@@andrebenoit404 okay
Just this: don't be scared of 3D printing. Some people who are against 3D printing will always try to pound into your head how difficult it is, how often prints fail (which was only true for the very first printers lol) and how much more time consuming it is.
It is not difficult at all, but as any novel machinery, you will have to learn the process. You can expect good prints right away if you don't make it overly complicated.
Yes prints will fail from time to time, but 99% of the time it is due to bad supports. There are some super easy tutotials out there to optimize the process and software will only get better, to a point at which you won't even have to worry about supports anymore.
That 3D printing is time consuming is an absolute myth. Sure, you're not as quick as a guy who runs into a TT shop and drops the better part of his weekly salary onto the counter, but if you are patient and are sensible about printing time, you'll have printed an entire army in a few days. While you are out with your family/friends enjoying life, the printer is happily beeping and booping away and when you return, the model should be just about done. Now you only have to wash and cure it and youre done.
You know what is actually time consuming? Popping plastic parts out of a grid and meticulously glueing them together. With 3D printing, most of what you print comes out in one go and is thus less prone to breaking/popping off.
Well said! The old time consuming argument will be phased out soon enough with new printers being made! I think there is even one commercially that cures while it prints! So it won't be long until we will get it in retail for a reasonable price.
I got a Mars 3 pro recently, and I was expecting a week of fails until I started printing good looking minis. Printed a Cones of Calibration on the recommended settings, and it told me the exposure time was too high, so I lowered it a bit, and it worked perfectly. Not one fail due to the machine since, only 2 or 3 because I broke some basic rules like scaling down a pre-supported mini etc.
What kind of ventilation do I need? Is it too noisy to run at night?
@@dylangajewski Ventilation will depend mostly on which resin you use. I used Elegoo Grey ABS like resin first and it definitely gave off a smell and fumes that were unpleasant to be around. I had to keep my door closed or the smell would get into the rest of the house. The next resin I tried was Anycubic standard black resin and that basically just give off a bit of a smell, and I can leave my door open without bothering anyone.
As for noise, that depends on the printer. I'm sure it's something that they are working on improving, as being able to have a 3d printer that can just sit in your bedroom and run while you sleep is the dream.
Again, I have a Mars 3 Pro, and it's pretty loud in my opinion. There is fan that is constantly blowing which isn't quiet, but the loudest noise comes from the threaded rod that spins to lift the build plate up and down. The faster it moves, the louder it is, so theoretically I could reduce all the movement speeds and it might be tolerable.
But yeah, in the quiet of the night you could probably hear it from one room over, so a room that wasn't directly connected to a bedroom would be idea.
But one important issue about printing at night is temperature. The colder it is, the thicker the resin is and this can cause issues. Also quick changes in temperature can create lines in your prints (so next to a radiator is a bad idea. 20C is the "ideal" temperature.
@@cormacsmall9442
Vacuum cleaner loud or air conditioner/fan loud?
Ironically enough, white noise helps me sleep.
For failed prints stuck to the fep, I put a piece of support material I can get a good hold on and hold it in place it in the corner while I run a "print" of a box that's my full plate size by 1mm without the build plate attached. When it's done pull up the supports and along with it comes a sheet of cured resin containing everything that was stuck.
A easier way at least on elegoo machines is the tank clean function I do the same with the support in the vat but run the tank clean for 60 secs and then just peel it off! It may be worthwhile to check your machine.
So the Elegoo Jupiter has this air filter do you need another protection against the resin steam or is it enough?
The Mars series is what I was looking into, but it's because I read an article saying it was the absolute best beginner printer for miniatures and it's in my price range you could get a mars 2 pro for 135 bucks on Black Friday but apparently the small build size is the only thing separating it from the rest of the pack
The Mars 2 done me fine for the first year or so but the Saturn's build volume is nice
You can also overcome the small build plate by cutting larger models into pieces then supergluing them together and filling in the seams with some putty and sandpaper!
Just had my Saturn 2 turn up. Now the fun begins
Mars 2 Pro bro here. I've run a shit load of resin thru it and I've found that the Fast + Tenacious is indeed awesome.
Edit: microfiber cloths are incredibly useful for cleaning your vat and stuff.
would you go back to any other resin after using the fast+tenacious? Yes microfibres are a must have!! I missed out on a few obvious to me things that i'm kicking myself for now!
@@battlebrothersam I don't think I would go back unless I had to. It's so much more resilient and I've had more consistent results with it. Also the prints just look so much nicer with the navy grey.
@@PantsReduction I've heard loads of great things about it! Also heard you can buy a 5kg barrel? 😂
How do you use the micro fiber cloths? Is it just to get the remainder of the resin out of the vat? Or do you mean using them when you're actually washing the vat? Do they get caked with resin quickly? Do you clean them or just toss them after? I'm getting some supplies to get started and I've not heard this suggestion before so I want to know if i need to pick them up or not haha
@@brianp6859 OK so I use them after a good cleaning out with a wash bottle full of alcohol. Basically I wipe out the corners of the vat and surface of the FEP with the microfiber cloth to get rid of any leftover before a FEP change or after a big print fail or whatever. They are about the only thing that won't scratch the FEP. I also use them to clean the plate, my silicone spatula, and my plastic razor without fear of leaving little bits of paper towel or anything on them. Basically if a tool is going into the vat at any time it only gets cleaned with microfiber cloth.
Also I use one that is kept clean to sit the vat on when I need to futz with something, because the Mars 2 Pro doesn't have feet on the vat so the FEP sits directly on whatever you put it which can scratch the heck out of it. I think most newer models have feet on the vat so that might not be a concern.
At any time I have one dirty cloth that I am using to wipe down the plate and occasionally clean the vat, and one clean cloth that only acts as a mat for the vat when i need to set it down for leveling or whatever. Once the dirty one is gross as hell I lay it out in the sun to harden up the resin and then it goes in the hazardous waste trash.
I just got a mars 3 pro last week, so happy with it, so much fun to fiddle around with.
Excellent choice!
@@battlebrothersam thanks brother! Your channel was definitely one of the main reasons I got a resin printer and how I knew most the stuff I needed
that's great to hear brother! :)
I can think of a few things.
Paper towels - you WILL spill or at least drip resin and need to clean things up. Kitchen rolls will do, but I'd pick up some big blue "shop" rolls, like the ones you see in garages.
Microfibre cloths - at some point you'll want to clean your resin vat or your screen and you don't want to use abrasive paper towels that will leave microscratches that will degrade quality. I've found disposable floor wipes do a great job.
A funnel and a set of paper paint filters - when you get a failed print (and you will) you might be left with fragments of cured resin floating free in the vat, which can damage your FEP film and even your screen. So you'll want to pour the unused resin in the vat back into the bottle, through the filter which will remove any solid chunks.
Coffee filters & old 2l soft drink bottles - once you've used IPA for cleaning for a while it will go very cloudy with resin particles. You can recycle this IPA by pouring it into empty clear plastic bottles and putting it somewhere in direct sunlight for a couple of weeks (even UK sunlight). The sun's UV slowly cures the resin which sinks to the bottom leaving the clear IPA. After a while you can decant the IPA through the coffee filter for reuse. I've got about a 50% recovery rate on my used IPA, which is better than nothing for not much work. The "baller" option for this would be a full distillation setup, which I've seen some people try, however boiled IPA vapours are a bit explody, so it's not recommended unless you really know what you're doing and have somewhere safe to do it.
your 100% right i use all of those aswell! i've looked into the distillation setup too but yeah like you say its not super safe. Good points Doc
too add onto this get a uv flashlight/ use your curing setup to cure you paper towels to make them safe to dispose of
Never thought of that! That's a good tip
I've been consuming 3d printing videos lately, saw a pretty good one about using several layers of cheese cloth to help get out the majority of the resin from the IPA and then running it through another process using cheapo filters which gets it looking pretty good, I think the guy was getting back about, I want to say, 80% of his IPA atleast.
Bought my first printer yesterday and can't wait for it to arrive. Gonna be printing all the things now! Thanks for the vids and advice for getting into this hobby
Excellent news brother! Glad to have you on board
@@battlebrothersam glad to be joining the resin master race hahaha. Already found some nice corn on the cob angry bois to start my printing career off
corn on the cob LOL good time to be printing a plant munching army now with the new book coming soon
@@battlebrothersam the code names for these files never cease to amuse me 🤣
new subscriber from Spain that is starting into painting, nice work m8
Gracias hermano!
I started with an LD-002r which has worked great. Great price for entry then after 6 months got an halot-lite for the bigger build plate. They have been really good printers and I usually don’t have many failures but I usually buy cheap resin and have since learned you get what you pay for when it comes to resin. I love your channel!
How necessary/important is a mask and/or a grow tent or other ventilation feature for the resin fumes? I wear gloves when dealing with mine of course, but using the Elegoo 8k resin it doesn't really have that bad of a smell. It's in our office, since that's the warmest room in the house, and I use the cover when it's printing. The Saturn 2's mini air filter also seems to do a pretty good job of filtering the air inside the printer housing.
Just ordered a Mars 3 Pro with the Mercury Wash/Cure combo. So psyched
Excellent brother
An aptly timed video Brother Sam! I just picked up a new anycubic mono 4k printer because it was selling super cheap on the second hand market. Wasn't the printer I had planned on but for the price it was a no brainer. Got some resin and a wash and cure station showing up today and tomorrow and this video will give me a good list of stuff to pick up today while I wait. I also ordered the anycubic water washable resin+. Couldn't find any RUclips reviews of it so we'll see how it stacks up compared to the elegoo water washable that there are a millions reviews on
Perfect timing brother! From what I gather they are near identical keep me updated on it I always like to hear people's experiences with resin I haven't tried!
good vid brother have you tried the uber expensive resin if so what is so great about it and what does the mixing do?
Thanks brother, i haven't yet tried it but I plan to hopefully later in the year! at the moment it's a bit too much out of my budget, the pictures ive seen of models printed with these 2 mixed have so much detail in the models and also seen someone bend a sword almost over 90 degrees but i'll have to try it myself
Great Video, i would love a rundown from the pc part to the printing to painten.
Ask and you shall receive brother! I have it on my list of videos to do now thanks to you
Really good Video. Thanks for the whole information in a really funny way. Best wishes from Germany.
How do you dispose of the excess IPA after cleaning prints? Should you put it in a container and then in a cure station, to cure any remaining bits of resin and then let the remaining fluid evaporate outside or something?
3d printing is very simple now 😁 I just got some new Meths (much cheaper than normal alcohol) 5 liters was 28 euro. Have most of my HH bits printed off now as well hehe. Again printing is so easy these days. Took me a day or so to get my settings right and I am still using these same settings almost a year later! I have the Mars 3.
😁I don't know why people think it's so complicated 😆 new meth alc you say? You getting it local on the island?
@@battlebrothersam I think it's several reason they think it's alot like FDM that is much more fiddley also the fact again they haven't a clue 🤣 and somehow think it is hard and complex. Also yeah it's much cheaper to get it is very common usage does the same job. I got it from a big company got it delivered so it was nice I woke up to it there ha
Thanks for all the great videos!. I'm waiting to buy a 4k or 8k resin printer and have been doing research for weeks now.
This might be a noob question here.. but.. what resolution would the genuine GW 40k minis in terms of detail equivalent if compared to 3d resin printers ? 8k? Or 4-6k?? 16k? I know it's two different techniques injector mould vs 3d print so isn't a perfect comparison etc.
I have an original Saturn and a Saturn 2 that I purchased a couple of months ago. The Saturn 2 is even better than the Saturn. I have only had one file fail to print, and that was due to improper supports. Once I got it figured out, the file printed without a problem. The 8K resolution is absolutely amazing.
looking to get a saturn 3 ultra with the ultimate aim of printing a warlord once i learn enough to do so. Is this a good choice and will it print all the parts or will some need to be cut, all help welcomed as im a noob to this and im only getting into this after watching many of your vids.
Wearing a kreator shirt now!! Good video
🤘 Thanks brother!
Pretty comprehensive guide. Nothing much more to add.
That was a smug and sly pointer behind you for the bigger Prints. Love people sticking it to GW with these little gestures.
Thanks brother! 😂😂 Well when we can print these for a fraction of the cost might aswell point them out lol
I'm looking to get into 3D printing for minis and such and was wondering why you would need a grow tent? Is it to help keep it warm or something? Good video.
Thanks brother, its to keep the fumes in but it also does keep the printer and resin warm as a byproduct
@@battlebrothersam awesome, thanks for explaining!
Great video! I would have put the Elegoo Water-Washable Resin in the "Budget" option since you don't have to buy IPA and can just wash your prints in the sink.
Thanks! I contemplated it but I found it too brittle for me but your right it would save on the IPA costs! Even though I still ended up using IPA lol
@@battlebrothersam I've only ever used it, so I don't have a comparison for the brittleness. Tempted to pick up ABS-like and some IPA though.
I would recommend trying out the abs, water washable did seem to show more detail in fairness but I dropped a few models like I usually do and the abs ones survived where the water washable didn't.
@@battlebrothersam nice. I'll give it a go
I hope you don't actually wash in the sink though, resin is toxic and washing it down the drain is terrible for everyone.
So im thinking of buying one but not sure if its good idea, i live in a small apartament and i dont know if it will fit etc.
Can i print big buss dragons and terrin with saturn or should i go bigger? Also is it toxicity difference in different resins, and, do u Use goggles and breathing mask
I bought a pack of PFA (FEP 2.0) six months ago, but since I learned how to take care of the FEP, I'm still using the original FEP that came with my Saturn 2 - that was nearly a year ago!
I'm almost looking forward to replacing the film, but it's got months of life left in it yet.
Are PLA printers any good for 40k?
They can be but they need more calibration than resin printers
I have a Prusa MK3S+ but plan to get a Saturn 2 if there is a Black Friday deal going on, otherwise, maybe with a Christmas bonus from work.
I'm just finishing up building my big bench enclosure for my Prusa, and future 3D print tools. I'm in Canada, so I have the living space to build big hobby benches.
If GW sends letters threatening someone who designed their own models (not recasts which I do think should be illegal, it's basically forgery) should tell GW that they'll see them in court, because GW will never go to court over every designer. If you can show you created original work, even if inspired by something else, it's still a unique piece of artwork, and protected under law.
That's why there hasn't been any court cases, because GW has no basis for their threats. Otherwise, they could go sue Blizzard for Starcraft and Warcraft, because those started as GW product designs (fun history story).
I'll be joining you on black friday stalking the amazon page brother! lol you could have a printing farm! I want to get a FDM printer sometime in the future.
for an even cheaper obtion for a printer i recomend the Mars 2 MONO..."the Green one"(ca 100 bucks)...basicly the same printer as the mars 2 pro (1cm less build height)
got mine and a wash&cure and all that i needed (gloves ,IpA ,2xresin ect) for under 300..🙂
hey cool, you had my reddit post on there!
Smile! Your on TV 📺😂😂
I personaly luw da final part
😂😂 Glad to see you stayed till the end!
should I get the elegoo 8K abs resin?
Laugh at me if you wan, but I bought a good/used resin printer from elegoo, it's the saturn 4k one. It was 209 compared to 400. I bought water washable resin on a budget, picked up 20ft of 405 nm UV LEDS, and I picked up a box of nitrile gloves. I have a padded box I'm going to cover in aluminium tape and put the leds in a giant spiral inside
Thinking of getting the photon mono 4K? Any good.
From what I've heard it's good! Is there much price difference between it and the mono x?
The mono 4k is 289 USD (with no offers) and the mono X is 529 (right now they are both on offer for about 40 percent off tho
Edit: the offer ends in 1 Hour lol
This video is great. I've started about month ago. Already used down 1 liter of resin :) Learning a lot like submerging prints in warm water to remove supports. Now I know it's about 40C, above that it might severly damage prints. Started with mars 3 pro. What I would like to know is if that plant growing tent without fan works well? I was thinking about getting one because my apartment smells for 2-3 days after printing and it's really bad :D
Thanks! Yeah it worked well for me without fans, I just opened the window when I opened the tent because all the smells were stuck in there lol I've started using elegoo air purifiers for the printers but haven't used them enough to make a recommendation
Is to possible to easily print a land raider on a Mars?
I would like to recommend an anycubic eco resin ( which is water washable). The pros are that everyone has easy access to water, it is less toxic, there are some interesting color choices, secret less curing esp5 with transparent resin and you spare yourself from inhaling alcohol. As for the brittleness it is up to everyone 's handling of the miniatures.
I'll be the first to admit I'm clumsy with my models 😂😂 thanks for the recommendation for anycubic
@@battlebrothersam It is understandable that each of us can only share personal experiences, and some times this is biased, but although I had some drop accidents I found it easy to reattach broken parts with some fresh resin on the spot and recuring under direct uv light.
Is this the least toxic resin u found
@@UnknownEntity334 I am not an expert about toxicity. I moved on to elegoo plant based translucent green resin because it seems to beore durable to accidental falls of my printed miniatures
I'm currently switching from IPA to Ethanol. Much less smelly, and seems to get the same results.
Oh nice is it much cheaper than IPA?
Me: write that down, write that down!
@@battlebrothersam it is cheaper, but not that much, at least in my country. Most important not that smelly, IPA for me is the bigger issue than the resin itself. :)
@@DiavloPL Find your nearest Polmos and ask them if they produce ethanol based paint thinners. It is a byproduct from vodka production which doesn't meet purity regulations for food products.
I find a very hot sponge on the screen after a resin spill works wonders getting cured resin off. Leave on for a few minutes the resin will go soft and flakes or peels off with almost no effort.
Oh now that's a unique one! I haven't heard that before, thanks for sharing
8" or 10" carbon filter and blower to filter your air. All steps in the process: printing and post-printing, degassing, etc. generate fumes and VOCs. Purify your air and pipe the cleaner air out of your space. I 3D printed an adapter and pipe the air out of the basement window.
So the Elegoo Jupiter has this air filter do you need another protection against the resin fumes or is it enought?
I print my models on the FDM printer Ender 3 V2 Neo just cause I had it then got into printing minis.
"It goes for about 25 pounds..."
"Im sure it dont weigh anywhere near that much"
come on brotha, say it like we do!!!
ALUMINUM!!
😂😂😂😂 Slip of the tongue
@@battlebrothersam Love the content Sam. one day I’ll be in the 3d printer game.
I´m thinking of getting an anycubic photon 4k
Aluminium!!! lol anyway, how do you calibrate the setting of the resin in the slice software if you mix the resin??
Do you mean mixing 2 different resins together? Like the siraya tenacious and a standard resin? You'd print valuation tests in 0.5 secs increments in exposure time starting from. 2.5
I have an Elegoo Saturn S, I haven't printed my first object yet, the problem I am running into is trying to make sure I don't have islands when I print.
Just as I ordered my Anycubic mono 4k this shows up
Hopefully good timing then 😁
Good video. But if I buy a grow tent I would definitely gro weed and keep my 3d printing outside of it 😂
I have an anycubic photon 4k. I would like to get something bigger to help with larger prints.
I think anycubic have a sale on now for their new m3 line and saturn 1 is on sale for quite cheap
I just got a Anycubic photon mono x 6k. It was cheaper to get a printer than just keep expanding my krieg the normal way
Ipa vs d- natural alcohol?
I have 3 ender 3 pros and 2 longer orange 30
You've got a farm going! 😁
I chuckled pretty hard at Aluminum. Join us in US English brother 😂
Great video so what i understand i cant have 3d printer in the same room as i am sleeping etc.... ?
I wouldn't unless you either keep a window open or have it contained in a growtent
@@battlebrothersam And i must Have respirator while being in thé room where Are the miniatures being cured ?
No its not needed only if your sensitive to the resin I have mine for days where it gives me headaches but its mostly the alcohol when cleaning! Some people wear one when they are near the open printer.
A grow tent is an eye opener for me, I still was thinking how to do proper indoor fumes isolation and it's subsequent ventilation, thanks a million!
Completly understand if we cant answer this, but what sort of words could i search for the angry war loving space fungus faction?
Heisenberg: "Jesse, we need to print."
Hmmm maybe a campervan would be the ideal spot for a 3d printer 🤔😂
You have inspired me to buy a 3d printer, It arrives tomorrow and went for the mars 3 pro. I cannot wait. Finally all of my D&D mini s and Warhammer will be so much cheaper.
Al-you-mini-um.
😂😂😂😂😂 Glad to see you made it to the end brother
@@battlebrothersam It's even funnier because I'm an American.
@@nickschaefer9320 your Americanisms are invading my vocabulary Nick! Next thing I'll be taking out the trash! 😂😂
finding "real" stl files is borderline impossibile unfortunately
Isn’t this like, illegal? Because of copy right?
If your planning to sell it then yes its illegal, I actually have another video where I address this! It's the top questions asked about 3d printing for warhammer