I have a 1989 trooper w 4ze1 motor..last week i saw tiny bubbles in the coolant after a short drive..thought it might be the head gasket starting to leak..proceeded to retighten the head bolts..in sequence..like another 20 or so degrees...real tight..it has worked..thanks alot johnny for sharing
Question: Would you not re-torque the head first and then adjust the valves? Is re-torquing necessary? It seems scary to me to loosen the headbolt while the rest is at 75 pounds. And do you do this on a cold or warm engine? Thanks.
Great to see some instructional videos on the 4ze1 ! thanks!! was wondering where that ticky sound was coming from.. mines pretty loud in my Holden Rodeo (from Australia here!) i've hit 450,000+ kilometers, such a strong motor !
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 As recommended by the legendary Isuzu guru Jerry Lemond, I am using DELO400 5-40 or Shell Rotella 5-40. I have been very happy with this diesel oil. It is supposed to have zinc in it, and it is good for the engine. Use the same in the manual transmission and transfer case, or use synchromesh.
Yes, It's an interference engine. I'm not aware of any clearance addition caused by tightening the lock nut. The head bolt appeared really loose because I break them loose and tighten them back up one at a time, I just didn't show doing all 10... You can reposition your timing belt like I do in the 2.6 head installation video.
I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily adjust them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. You see, the valves need to seat tightly against the head, both to seal, and for the exhaust valve to remain cool. The head is its heat sink. Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec. Buy ear plugs.
Hi Johnny and thank you for you videos real good lots of help. I have a 1986 isuzu pub 4CD1 it has a emision air pump and a rail of some cain on the exost manifold side but on the head Mi cuestion is can I remove all this crap ? and just plug the holes ?
something seems weird with the oil drain back oils in the head dude, i honestly dont know thes engines, but shouldnt there be a drain at the front of the engine?
I have a 1994 isuzu spacecab with 2.6 efi. Mine has a rough idle i changed everything and still runs rough and goes dead but runs fine going down the road and when warm idling pretty good will my valves cause this
kai konu I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily have them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec.
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I have a 1989 trooper w 4ze1 motor..last week i saw tiny bubbles in the coolant after a short drive..thought it might be the head gasket starting to leak..proceeded to retighten the head bolts..in sequence..like another 20 or so degrees...real tight..it has worked..thanks alot johnny for sharing
I just bought an 88 Trooper with a locked down engine and it looks like you are my new hero. Thanks for all these vids.
You're very welcome, and thank you for taking the time to post the comment. It makes me feel good to be appreciated.
What exactly is a "locked down" engine?
Question: Would you not re-torque the head first and then adjust the valves?
Is re-torquing necessary? It seems scary to me to loosen the headbolt while the rest is at 75 pounds.
And do you do this on a cold or warm engine?
Thanks.
Thank you man appreciated it
No problem.
Thanks Dude, my grand kid has one and I heard it ticking and thought Solids, but I wasn't sure.
Great to see some instructional videos on the 4ze1 ! thanks!!
was wondering where that ticky sound was coming from.. mines pretty loud in my Holden Rodeo (from Australia here!) i've hit 450,000+ kilometers, such a strong motor !
What oil viscosity do you use in the 4ze1
How much miles it has now
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 As recommended by the legendary Isuzu guru Jerry Lemond, I am using DELO400 5-40 or Shell Rotella 5-40. I have been very happy with this diesel oil. It is supposed to have zinc in it, and it is good for the engine. Use the same in the manual transmission and transfer case, or use synchromesh.
Yes, It's an interference engine. I'm not aware of any clearance addition caused by tightening the lock nut. The head bolt appeared really loose because I break them loose and tighten them back up one at a time, I just didn't show doing all 10... You can reposition your timing belt like I do in the 2.6 head installation video.
I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily adjust them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. You see, the valves need to seat tightly against the head, both to seal, and for the exhaust valve to remain cool. The head is its heat sink.
Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec. Buy ear plugs.
Was the car tipped nose-down, causing the oil to pour out of the top of the head and run down the outside like that? (@ 20 seconds)
Hi Johnny and thank you for you videos real good lots of help. I have a 1986 isuzu pub 4CD1 it has a emision air pump and a rail of some cain on the exost manifold side but on the head Mi cuestion is can I remove all this crap ? and just plug the
holes ?
yes
Gracias homy me gusta lo ke haces
Disculpa amigo oye no se hablar ingles. Oyes ese ajuste de válvulas que haces es con el motor en frío. O en caliente o eso no importa
something seems weird with the oil drain back oils in the head dude, i honestly dont know thes engines, but shouldnt there be a drain at the front of the engine?
Thank u helpful
I have a 1994 isuzu spacecab with 2.6 efi. Mine has a rough idle i changed everything and still runs rough and goes dead but runs fine going down the road and when warm idling pretty good will my valves cause this
what year are you working on?????
92 isuzu .whats the valve adjustments clearance for 2.3l pickup
I just luv your own torque specs. for her the book. Lol
top dead center, 1 is only open. bad cam shaft?
Hey had a question. when my engine is running 2.3L it will tick. The tick will get faster as the rpm does. any ideas?
kai konu
I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily have them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec.
logmeindangit agreed it’s better loose that tight
How come you didn't give me a call?
medida de abertura de balvula
where does a guy get those valve cover cap screws? i lost two of the three on the rebuild
Byron Nalos I can send you a set. Email me please. J5@johnny5troopers.com
@@Johnny5troopers ok
Tengo una kv 91 silva el motor cundo acelero.
Hai i'm from saudi arebia i' m mechanic 1problem is timing kemshaft how to 4zd1 petrol timing order please up load 1vedeo
Sexy little service-able little motors :)
1/3/4/2 our defrent
Es que tentó una Izuzu con un motor 4ze1
yo tengo una isuzu 1991 que le acabó de mandar rectificar la cabeza hace 20 Días que la sake del taller y ya no hay comprensión en el pistón 3,y4
no tienes compresión?? o es que no hay explosión en el cilindro?? o esta desarmada? si es q esta desarmada, son anillos de piston
no