Nice, powerful machine; very capable tooling, precise measuring instruments; rigid fixturing combined with the power of Mastercam . . . all of those would be sitting idle without you putting everything together. I like your trick/tip on measuring and adjusting your tool length offset to establish your datum . . . you have only eluded to nesting position practices (that subject is very deep). I loved your chain-drilling solution to avoid chip-jamming problems - foreseeing these potential problems is a sign of extensive, expert level experience. BTW - those are some beautiful drills. Drilling is done everywhere, from a job shop, to medical, automotive, aerospace . . . you name it, and I am always amazed of how neglected it is in many places. You showed us again, that every detail is important - proper entry into material, coolant . . . even down to having a mini 'TITANS of CNC MACHINING' eagle on the safety glasses🙂
KILLER JOB !!!!!!! I am running some of those tools as I type this. Drills are the most productive way to remove material, I think. When we have to make a large through hole in our parts. I drill holes close to the diameter and remove a large slug form the center. then mill the I.D.
I agree. It's hard to argue with the efficiency of a drill. But they still scare me sometimes lol especially the big Kraken drill that Barry runs all the time!
Some really good tips in there brother. Many of these lessons are learned the hard way creating headaches for everyone in the manufacturing process. Keep these coming please.
Well I can tell ya I'm impressed with what the machines ( and you too ) can do with a chunk of really tough metal....... IF I didn't see it I would never believe that a small tool ( insert ?) would cut this stuff like it is .....ah... Butter. NICE JOB👍👏 wish you could turn me loose for a wee bit in your shop....... I have this bracket ( Ultralight Aircraft Wing Attach fuel tank support ) that would be so perfect .... and.....( in Titanium it would be worth more than the whole craft I bet🤔)....OH WELL, back to my Solid Works Home Study design class book . As always a great Video.😁
Most likely you "got by" by being mediocre and telling people that 90% of what they were asking for "couldn't be done." Sounds like you're awful salty that we are telling the world how easy it is to do all of this stuff.
Great video Jessy. I learned that I don't know a ---- thing. I was a machinist for years all manual. I made tools , dies , molds , fixtures , and so many other very precision things that took me days just to make 1 section of a die. So I guess I have learned you could make every top and bottom sections in a day or two after you made the program for each section with great accuracy. Our die making tolerance was +-.001 that must be a mile to you. I am impressed with the machines and the programming skills you have.
Thanks Ronny. I always marveled at drawings that I would get in the past that I knew were so old they were originally hand drawn and in the back of my mind I knew someone had to make that part on a manual and hit those tolerances. Manual machining is definitely a beautiful skill. One that I wish I had more of.
@@Jessie_Smith thank you Jessie Smith and I am sorry for misspelling your name. And yes I worked from prints of the finished part to be made from the die that was to be built. I had to know what material the parts were made of and the thickness of the material/metal. Then I build the die to stamp out the part or parts. Some of these are simple others are very complex. Some metals like 2024T6 at .125 inches thickness are easily shaped or just punching holes into it. Some dies I built were making parts..250 inch steel. I had to build all the sections of the top and bottom of the die and hold the tolerance +-.001 where the top half and the bottom half meets together on the die shoe. 1 mistake on any section would have to be remade so great care was always taken to make it right. Thanks for your time
@@ronnydowdy7432 That is why I always tried to stay away from die work. It is so tedious and one little mistake can cause you to have to remake the whole part. I love doing fine detail work but building dies would drive me insane lol. I've made some simple components for dies but that's about it.
Nice and short, not too much time and lots of good information. I do not use those type of drills with the rotate in heads. I have heard that the drill body can expand if it gets hot and the insert will come loose? Charles
I’ve noticed something that caught my attention! Jessie said at the beginning of the video when he changed the first drill that he runs the drill with 0.006” Feed per REVOLUTION (0:59). On the screen it shows 0.006” IPT (Inch per Tooth)-(it might be just an editing mistake). Unless Jessie created the tool with 1 tooth in the program, the IPT/FPT and IPR/FPR are the same, if not, the IPT means double IPR(if the tool is programmed with 2 teeth)! Usually I create my drills with 2 teeth in Mastercam (unless it’s a special 3 or more flute drill) thats why I’m a little bit confused! Let me give an example: Tool programmed with 1 tooth: 0.006” IPT/FPT is 0.006” IPR/FPR. Tool programmed with 2 teeth: 0.006” IPT/FPT is 0.012” IPR/FPR. Please make it more clear for me! Thank you!
Hello Daniel. You are absolutely correct. A typical twist drill or modular drill would be 2 flutes but Indexable drills such as the DFSP should be programmed as 1 flute instead of 2. It has two inserts but one is at the center of the tool (or close to it) and the drill only has 1 peripheral insert making it a 1 flute tool. Usually I only talk in FPT terms but for this instance I said FPR because that is how NOVO gives the feedrate recommendations for this tool so I was trying to be consistent with what you would see if you were to look it up in NOVO.
Thanks for the reply, I’ve learned something new about the indexable drills! (They are defined as 1 flute drills and bc of that FPT is same as FPR) If the your tools are programmed as 2 flutes (modular drills), then the datas are wrong in the video! It’s either the IPT or the IPM is wrong! (With all 4 modular drills in the video) First modular drill is 0.3976” and 350 SFM=3367 RPM, that’s correct. 3367 RPM with 23.57 IPM is 0.007” IPR not 0.007” IPT. (It should say 0.0035” IPT) Or 3357 RPM with 0.007” IPT is 47 IPM. (IF Tool is defined as 2 flute drill in the program) I don’t try to tease you!:) Thank you guys for everything that you do in this CNC community!
What do you guys do with all the material that gets removed ? Do you recycle it ? I was thinking you could make Aluminium powder or something depending on the materials.
You could always qualify the datum then in process probe of that qualified face and update your work offset, then establish the holes. That way the side holes will always be right on the money.
I will see if I can't do a specific video on it breaking it down. The KSEM drill is great for this application because it has a very strong seat for the insert. I failed to mention it in the video but when you come back and drill in between two holes you need to reduce the feedrate by 50%.
@@bridged13b You certainly could do this with a small feed mill as long as you had good thru spindle coolant or air blast to get the chips out of the pocket without re-cutting them. But the feed mill wouldn't be as fast as the drill.
Did i miss some tips? I work on weak umc750 and making much more complicated patrts than this. I work in stainless, steel 1.2842 or 2311/12 in tolerances about .02-.03[mm] and this is tough. When u have solid machine, great tools and a hundret sponsors there is no big deal make to make things like this.
Congratulations on being so awesome! I promise you that we could make some parts that would BLOW your mind, but they would be useless to 99.99% of our viewers. And you can whine all you want about not having great tools......but that is why we like to show what GREAT tools are capable of doing. Maybe your boss will stop blowing money on garbage and start buying what you actually NEED.
How can you trust your MRZP settings to set your tool accurately enough through qualifying features? I think it’s safer and easier to give the holes another work offset.
I used this method countless times at my last job and would hit .001" true positions all day. At the end of the day you will need to do what makes sense to you and your shop. I am just trying to give some different techniques. On a part like this that only has holes on two sides then additional work offsets would be easy. But the more complex you get and the more sides you have it becomes a lot for the operator to keep up with. Our parts I used to run would have over 200 features on them and they were painfully over toleranced so I always tried to come up with things that would be the least amount of effort for my operators. For us, having an M00 in the program and a statement on the setup sheet saying "check this dimension, it should read this, if not, adjust this tool" was the best solution we found and was the least confusing for our guys
How is it that you guys never seem to spring cut and get the dimension you want? Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I always seem to have to spring cut to make sure I don’t get deflection towards the bottom of the part.
You know that instead of stoping the machine and measuring with a caliper you could use a touch probe and do everything automatically. You could save time and all other errors by doing this
Depending on the number of parts they need to make the programming of the probe may take longer than doing it by hand. If they are running 1000's of these then definitely probing them in the machine would totally be worth it.
yes, but it's all about levels. this is the first level and the easiest for people to understand and implement. I hope to later make a video performing this automatically with a probe and inserting a macro to automatically adjust the tool.
For the holes dimensioned to datum A, wouldn’t it be better to take new offsets for a production run? Checking the side dimensions seem to increase the work of the operator to me? Sorry if i sound ignorant, am new to this 😅😅
What worries me more is setting that datum and than going on roughing away big volumes of material. I don't know the tolerances on that part but stainless can move a lot on you. So I would do much more roughing before going into those fine details.
This feature really only has to be stopped and checked on the first part. Once the tool is set you won’t have to keep checking it unless you want to. And yes this is really meant for low volume work when you can’t afford to scrap a piece. At my last job the material was so expensive they would only order the exact amount needed and no extra so you had to get creative and find ways to make sure the features were being cut correctly on the first part. Yes it added a little extra machining time on the first part but if we would have scrapped a part it would have taken even longer to machine another one.
@@Jessie_Smith Thanks for your explanation! I was curious as to which would have been better techniques for different circumstances and your example cleared it up for me 👍👍
Very aware this is for 5 axis milling but was wondering if you have or had a Swiss type lathe (almost certain you had one in a old old vid) my current work place has mostly machined mild steels and we have a job in 316L but are struggling to find decent carbide. Any input off yourselfs or other commenters would be appreciated cheers from the UK
Do you have a preferred brand of tooling? If you are having issues call you local tooling representative. Get help from them. They are a great resource and in some cases you can get a guaranteed test. Meaning that if the tooling doesn't work out like it supposed to based on what the tool rep says you don't have to pay for the tooling. I've done this with Iscar several times. At my last shop we have a $3200 boring bar on a guaranteed test. They brought the bar and several interchangeable insert heads for it so we could dial in what was best for us. After we were done we only paid for what we actually needed. It saved us a bunch of time and head ache.
Are you looking for good turning inserts for swiss or milling tools? I will be straight honest with you, before I came to Titans of CNC I did not use much Kennametal milling tools. I had used several of their lathe inserts but not much solid carbide tooling. Since I have been here over the past 8 months I have been very impressed with the quality of Kennametal's carbide substrate itself. They make very good carbide blanks. Anyone can grind a tool and put a standard coating on it. But having a good carbide blank is where it starts. I have watched Barry put a Harvi I-TE that was chipped on every flute (not a little bit chipped, it was toast!) in the machine and full slot 316L like it wasn't nothing. Any other tools would have blown up instantly.
Definitely could have. I was trying to keep it simple just to teach a good method for machining qualifying features to ensure your tool is set properly. You have given me a good idea though. I can do a follow-up video on automating the process and probing the dimension and using a macro to adjust the tool length.
People new to a trade need to learn how to do things without the automation to fall back on. If someone knows how to measure with calipers, "yes sir, I know I have to get 25 of these out by the end of the day but we're dead in the water because the interface card for the probe blew out last night" will never come out of his or her mouth.
The tool was only off by .0025”. Probably had a bad hit on the tool setter. The point was that if you have a critical feature or when setting datum’s you really want to KNOW the tool is set correctly. If you just touch off on the tool setter and hit cycle start you are really just ASSUMING it is correct and trusting that it is. Which is fine if you don’t have tight tolerances but when dealing with true position tolerances everything becomes much more critical. If you are off just .002” in X and Y then your true position will be .0056 which could be out of tolerance. I just wanted to show a simple, easy trick to verify to yourself that the tool is cutting correctly on a feature that isn’t easily measured
We do this for filming purposes only. After we film it cutting without coolant so you guys can actually see what's going on I go back and run it again with coolant
Great video, Jessie. The advice on datums and programming in qualifying features is priceless.
Thanks big bear!
A I can't wait to see this baby completely finished Mr Jessy BOOM 🔥
Me either! Thanks for watching!
#DoubleBoom
Nice, powerful machine; very capable tooling, precise measuring instruments; rigid fixturing combined with the power of Mastercam . . . all of those would be sitting idle without you putting everything together. I like your trick/tip on measuring and adjusting your tool length offset to establish your datum . . . you have only eluded to nesting position practices (that subject is very deep). I loved your chain-drilling solution to avoid chip-jamming problems - foreseeing these potential problems is a sign of extensive, expert level experience. BTW - those are some beautiful drills. Drilling is done everywhere, from a job shop, to medical, automotive, aerospace . . . you name it, and I am always amazed of how neglected it is in many places. You showed us again, that every detail is important - proper entry into material, coolant . . . even down to having a mini 'TITANS of CNC MACHINING' eagle on the safety glasses🙂
Could you elaborate on "nesting position practices"? I'm always interested in learning new techniques.
Wow! This Awesome! Straight of the chain!🙂 Man you folks at Titans of Cnc are always raising the bar!
Thanks Timothy!
You're always able to give us - the viewers useful info! thanks!
Thanks for watching!
KILLER JOB !!!!!!!
I am running some of those tools as I type this.
Drills are the most productive way to remove material, I think.
When we have to make a large through hole in our parts. I drill holes close to the diameter and remove a large slug form the center. then mill the I.D.
I agree. It's hard to argue with the efficiency of a drill. But they still scare me sometimes lol especially the big Kraken drill that Barry runs all the time!
Awesome! I really like this! My dream is operation 5 axis CNC! Congratulations for your videos!
Man this video is packed with useful info. Great work as always Jessie, that chain drilling trick is slick!
Thanks Trevor. The chain drilling was my favorite
It’s insane what you guys are capable of!!
love the FEG tip from kennametal no more using endmill to flat-bottomed the hole anymore
It is very nice to make a flat bottom hole in one operation and not have to setup a separate tool just to get rid of the tip
I got the laughing feeling when you learn something new and amazing that choked up laugh, anybody else ?
Congrats on reaching 400,000 subs!
YESSSS
Woo hoo! Thanks!
Awesome video mate! Very informative.
Cheers.
Thank you!
Great video Jessie! Love those new Texas shirts! BOOM!
Thanks Shanie! me too! they are my new favorite
Some really good tips in there brother. Many of these lessons are learned the hard way creating headaches for everyone in the manufacturing process. Keep these coming please.
Thanks Travis. That’s exactly why I wanted to make this video. I’ve had to learn these things the hard way lol
Well I can tell ya I'm impressed with what the machines ( and you too ) can do with a chunk of really tough metal....... IF I didn't see it I would never believe that a small tool ( insert ?) would cut this stuff like it is .....ah... Butter. NICE JOB👍👏 wish you could turn me loose for a wee bit in your shop....... I have this bracket ( Ultralight Aircraft Wing Attach fuel tank support ) that would be so perfect .... and.....( in Titanium it would be worth more than the whole craft I bet🤔)....OH WELL, back to my Solid Works Home Study design class book . As always a great Video.😁
These people KNOW it all....how did we get by all those years without them?
Most likely you "got by" by being mediocre and telling people that 90% of what they were asking for "couldn't be done." Sounds like you're awful salty that we are telling the world how easy it is to do all of this stuff.
Great video Jessy. I learned that I don't know a ---- thing. I was a machinist for years all manual. I made tools , dies , molds , fixtures , and so many other very precision things that took me days just to make 1 section of a die.
So I guess I have learned you could make every top and bottom sections in a day or two after you made the program for each section with great accuracy.
Our die making tolerance was +-.001 that must be a mile to you. I am impressed with the machines and the programming skills you have.
Thanks Ronny. I always marveled at drawings that I would get in the past that I knew were so old they were originally hand drawn and in the back of my mind I knew someone had to make that part on a manual and hit those tolerances. Manual machining is definitely a beautiful skill. One that I wish I had more of.
@@Jessie_Smith thank you Jessie Smith and I am sorry for misspelling your name.
And yes I worked from prints of the finished part to be made from the die that was to be built. I had to know what material the parts were made of and the thickness of the material/metal.
Then I build the die to stamp out the part or parts. Some of these are simple others are very complex.
Some metals like 2024T6 at .125 inches thickness are easily shaped or just punching holes into it.
Some dies I built were making parts..250 inch steel.
I had to build all the sections of the top and bottom of the die and hold the tolerance +-.001 where the top half and the bottom half meets together on the die shoe.
1 mistake on any section would have to be remade so great care was always taken to make it right.
Thanks for your time
@@ronnydowdy7432 That is why I always tried to stay away from die work. It is so tedious and one little mistake can cause you to have to remake the whole part. I love doing fine detail work but building dies would drive me insane lol. I've made some simple components for dies but that's about it.
This is awesome!
Thank you JD
Watch out Barry, Jessie doing one hell of a job on this 316 stainless part.
AWESOME
Awesome video. Would be very interested on how u would go about machining the input/exhaust holes (it's it's a 2stroke of course )
Great video!
Nice and short, not too much time and lots of good information. I do not use those type of drills with the rotate in heads. I have heard that the drill body can expand if it gets hot and the insert will come loose? Charles
I’ve noticed something that caught my attention!
Jessie said at the beginning of the video when he changed the first drill that he runs the drill with 0.006” Feed per REVOLUTION (0:59). On the screen it shows 0.006” IPT (Inch per Tooth)-(it might be just an editing mistake). Unless Jessie created the tool with 1 tooth in the program, the IPT/FPT and IPR/FPR are the same, if not, the IPT means double IPR(if the tool is programmed with 2 teeth)!
Usually I create my drills with 2 teeth in Mastercam (unless it’s a special 3 or more flute drill) thats why I’m a little bit confused!
Let me give an example:
Tool programmed with 1 tooth:
0.006” IPT/FPT is 0.006” IPR/FPR.
Tool programmed with 2 teeth:
0.006” IPT/FPT is 0.012” IPR/FPR.
Please make it more clear for me!
Thank you!
Hello Daniel. You are absolutely correct. A typical twist drill or modular drill would be 2 flutes but Indexable drills such as the DFSP should be programmed as 1 flute instead of 2. It has two inserts but one is at the center of the tool (or close to it) and the drill only has 1 peripheral insert making it a 1 flute tool.
Usually I only talk in FPT terms but for this instance I said FPR because that is how NOVO gives the feedrate recommendations for this tool so I was trying to be consistent with what you would see if you were to look it up in NOVO.
Thanks for the reply, I’ve learned something new about the indexable drills! (They are defined as 1 flute drills and bc of that FPT is same as FPR)
If the your tools are programmed as 2 flutes (modular drills), then the datas are wrong in the video! It’s either the IPT or the IPM is wrong! (With all 4 modular drills in the video)
First modular drill is 0.3976” and 350 SFM=3367 RPM, that’s correct.
3367 RPM with 23.57 IPM is 0.007” IPR not 0.007” IPT.
(It should say 0.0035” IPT)
Or 3357 RPM with 0.007” IPT is 47 IPM.
(IF Tool is defined as 2 flute drill in the program)
I don’t try to tease you!:)
Thank you guys for everything that you do in this CNC community!
@@danielkincses1408 yes it is supposed to be FPR not IPT. It looks like the wrong graphic was used
@@Jessie_Smith Keep up the good work guys!! Teach us more about the CNC world!
Solid!
Top KEK!
What do you guys do with all the material that gets removed ?
Do you recycle it ?
I was thinking you could make Aluminium powder or something depending on the materials.
Nice video thank you is there a reamer tool for kennametal series.
Yes sir. Kennametal has a full line of reamers from Straight flute to spiral flute and inserted reamers as well!
You could always qualify the datum then in process probe of that qualified face and update your work offset, then establish the holes. That way the side holes will always be right on the money.
You must then be absolutely sure for the probe length, i sometimes use Jessie trick to verify or find the probe length.
Can you please make a video on chain drilling? In my experience I have broken many solid carbide drills trying to chain drill. Thanks!!
I will see if I can't do a specific video on it breaking it down. The KSEM drill is great for this application because it has a very strong seat for the insert. I failed to mention it in the video but when you come back and drill in between two holes you need to reduce the feedrate by 50%.
Would a feedmill not be a better option for this proccess?
@@bridged13b You certainly could do this with a small feed mill as long as you had good thru spindle coolant or air blast to get the chips out of the pocket without re-cutting them. But the feed mill wouldn't be as fast as the drill.
hey dont you guys get taper in dimensions when you use the whole flute length while finishining.
the kings of aluminum
Did i miss some tips? I work on weak umc750 and making much more complicated patrts than this. I work in stainless, steel 1.2842 or 2311/12 in tolerances about .02-.03[mm] and this is tough. When u have solid machine, great tools and a hundret sponsors there is no big deal make to make things like this.
Congratulations on being so awesome! I promise you that we could make some parts that would BLOW your mind, but they would be useless to 99.99% of our viewers. And you can whine all you want about not having great tools......but that is why we like to show what GREAT tools are capable of doing. Maybe your boss will stop blowing money on garbage and start buying what you actually NEED.
Just curious, but why not use an air blast on the pocket?
How can you trust your MRZP settings to set your tool accurately enough through qualifying features? I think it’s safer and easier to give the holes another work offset.
I used this method countless times at my last job and would hit .001" true positions all day. At the end of the day you will need to do what makes sense to you and your shop. I am just trying to give some different techniques. On a part like this that only has holes on two sides then additional work offsets would be easy. But the more complex you get and the more sides you have it becomes a lot for the operator to keep up with. Our parts I used to run would have over 200 features on them and they were painfully over toleranced so I always tried to come up with things that would be the least amount of effort for my operators. For us, having an M00 in the program and a statement on the setup sheet saying "check this dimension, it should read this, if not, adjust this tool" was the best solution we found and was the least confusing for our guys
How is it that you guys never seem to spring cut and get the dimension you want? Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I always seem to have to spring cut to make sure I don’t get deflection towards the bottom of the part.
Spring pass does not give the best finish, ballasted cuts is the way to go, Edge Precession and Stefan Gotteswinter have great videos on the subject.
You know that instead of stoping the machine and measuring with a caliper you could use a touch probe and do everything automatically. You could save time and all other errors by doing this
Depending on the number of parts they need to make the programming of the probe may take longer than doing it by hand. If they are running 1000's of these then definitely probing them in the machine would totally be worth it.
yes, but it's all about levels. this is the first level and the easiest for people to understand and implement. I hope to later make a video performing this automatically with a probe and inserting a macro to automatically adjust the tool.
For the holes dimensioned to datum A, wouldn’t it be better to take new offsets for a production run? Checking the side dimensions seem to increase the work of the operator to me? Sorry if i sound ignorant, am new to this 😅😅
What worries me more is setting that datum and than going on roughing away big volumes of material. I don't know the tolerances on that part but stainless can move a lot on you. So I would do much more roughing before going into those fine details.
This feature really only has to be stopped and checked on the first part. Once the tool is set you won’t have to keep checking it unless you want to. And yes this is really meant for low volume work when you can’t afford to scrap a piece. At my last job the material was so expensive they would only order the exact amount needed and no extra so you had to get creative and find ways to make sure the features were being cut correctly on the first part. Yes it added a little extra machining time on the first part but if we would have scrapped a part it would have taken even longer to machine another one.
@@ensen89 I agree. Normally I don’t do ANY finishing until I have everything completely roughed.
@@Jessie_Smith Thanks for your explanation! I was curious as to which would have been better techniques for different circumstances and your example cleared it up for me 👍👍
Very aware this is for 5 axis milling but was wondering if you have or had a Swiss type lathe (almost certain you had one in a old old vid) my current work place has mostly machined mild steels and we have a job in 316L but are struggling to find decent carbide. Any input off yourselfs or other commenters would be appreciated cheers from the UK
Do you have a preferred brand of tooling? If you are having issues call you local tooling representative. Get help from them. They are a great resource and in some cases you can get a guaranteed test. Meaning that if the tooling doesn't work out like it supposed to based on what the tool rep says you don't have to pay for the tooling. I've done this with Iscar several times. At my last shop we have a $3200 boring bar on a guaranteed test. They brought the bar and several interchangeable insert heads for it so we could dial in what was best for us. After we were done we only paid for what we actually needed. It saved us a bunch of time and head ache.
Are you looking for good turning inserts for swiss or milling tools? I will be straight honest with you, before I came to Titans of CNC I did not use much Kennametal milling tools. I had used several of their lathe inserts but not much solid carbide tooling. Since I have been here over the past 8 months I have been very impressed with the quality of Kennametal's carbide substrate itself. They make very good carbide blanks. Anyone can grind a tool and put a standard coating on it. But having a good carbide blank is where it starts. I have watched Barry put a Harvi I-TE that was chipped on every flute (not a little bit chipped, it was toast!) in the machine and full slot 316L like it wasn't nothing. Any other tools would have blown up instantly.
I see a lot of dvf in videos, how the machine work?
Why not use probe to verify dimensions.
Instead if calipers?
Jeff in Virginia
Definitely could have. I was trying to keep it simple just to teach a good method for machining qualifying features to ensure your tool is set properly. You have given me a good idea though. I can do a follow-up video on automating the process and probing the dimension and using a macro to adjust the tool length.
People new to a trade need to learn how to do things without the automation to fall back on. If someone knows how to measure with calipers, "yes sir, I know I have to get 25 of these out by the end of the day but we're dead in the water because the interface card for the probe blew out last night" will never come out of his or her mouth.
Why was the length out .005 from programmed dimensions?
The tool was only off by .0025”. Probably had a bad hit on the tool setter. The point was that if you have a critical feature or when setting datum’s you really want to KNOW the tool is set correctly. If you just touch off on the tool setter and hit cycle start you are really just ASSUMING it is correct and trusting that it is. Which is fine if you don’t have tight tolerances but when dealing with true position tolerances everything becomes much more critical. If you are off just .002” in X and Y then your true position will be .0056 which could be out of tolerance. I just wanted to show a simple, easy trick to verify to yourself that the tool is cutting correctly on a feature that isn’t easily measured
Would you show how to single block ?
Oh yea she's getting pretty
Please share me the camera technical specification
sick music
ISCAR THE BEST TOOLS !
Cutting stainless with no water coolant
We do this for filming purposes only. After we film it cutting without coolant so you guys can actually see what's going on I go back and run it again with coolant
@@Jessie_Smith ahh I see thanks for that.