Arod, sorry dont know how to DM on RUclips. My 2021 6.7 did something strange this morning. Cold morning for Texas 37F high idled (1100rpm) until warm (ECT 120+F). All seemed normal still high idling, then my turbo spooled up at high idle 8lbs of boost. Engine louder than normal but didnt sound unhealthy. Any ideas? Defroster turned up to max, could it be from a voltage drop, or EGR activation? Truck drove like a dream per usual, didnt miss a lick. Unfortunately didnt have time to troubleshoot with scanner. Any insight is very appreciated and thanks for all you do for the 6.7 community.
I was working on an f550 one afternoon. The rims were totally rusted on as I live in Maine and it was a plow/sand truck. I tried every tool and way I could think of but nothing was working. An old farmer had stoped by the shop and told me the easiest and best way for your body to remove the stuck wheels. Just loosen the lug nuts so they are 1/16" away from the rim but still fully on the studs. Then take the truck amd just drive it around the lot and over some bumps. It will pop off and move ever so slightly but never enough to damage the studs or any other break/suspension component. It has saved my back and tools for years now!
In the first step you need to bite the outer part of the opening in the rim not the inner (outside rim). That's why it kept slipping. Hopefully that is understandable.
I always clean the mounting surfaces of the duals and paint on the anti-seize. Seems to help, I never had a dual super stuck since. Most if not all I could just use my feet or a sledge on the rubber tire and it comes loose.
I work for a highway department and with salt this is a huge issue. We take the wheels off when the vehicle is BRAND NEW, sand off the new paint on the hub and liberally coat that area with anti seize. It really works. I will get this tool, though. Much better than the huge press you can buy that rolls around on it's own cart.
Pause at 3:17. That's how that tool should catch the outer upper lip of the rim. I think it would then push straight out instead of at an angle. I could be wrong. Like your videos
I have used a short chain with a hook on each end. I would place a bottle jack on its side, against the axle, and prop it up with wooden blocks. I would then attach the chain to the wheel and pump the jack. I leave 2 lug nuts loosely on to keep the wheel from flying off.
When I worked in the salvage yard we threw a cement block at it and it usually worked every time. Just like bowling we would actually get a little run at it never had any damage.
I always have backed the lugs off a couple of turns, hosed the hub and studs with FreeAll, and cut donuts until the wheel comes unstuck. So far it has always worked. BTW, if you are using antiseize for corrosion, be sure to use the marine grade. Standard antiseize is really only to prevent galling.
@@markschultz1606 To avoid anybody doing that, I want to be clear: DO NOT REMOVE THE LUGS---ONLY LOOSEN TWO TURNS. Thanks for bringing to my attention that others might misinterpret my meaning.
my tech school had a line of 4 or 5 speed bumps spaced about 5 feet apart that we used for doing that. usually only took 1 or 2 trips over them for even the most stubborn wheels
@@johnmorrow1628 we use a copper/aluminum mixture from Tifco on every one we come across. We prep the hubs and load em up, the wheels always come off after this. We live in the north east, we know about rust as well.
As a DIY car guy in the rust belt, those pops are so satisfying. I don't care how much anti-sieze you use, unless you're God himself after a few winters your tires are going to be welded onto the hub. My dad wanted to teach me a lesson to appreciate power tools when I first was learning. He had me try and remove a single rust welded tire by hand. 1 hour of futile pounding with a 5lbs mallet later, it was still stuck. so he came out with his air hammer and the thing came right off.
They were well corroded! On my truck when changing wheels between summer and winter I loosened the lug nuts one turn and go for a short drive. This only happens on the summer rims which are alloy, I also use anti seize on the hub assembly.
All you need is a small bottle jack you put the base of the jack on the inside lip of the dually as in the inner. And face the top of the Jack and Brace it to one of the u-bolts. Start pumping that Jack and they'll both break loose at the same time
I've seen many videos of wheels falling off vehicles. This is not one of those vehicles..... Good to know this tools exists if I start working on dual tire trucks. Good vid!
A buddy of mine made a homemade tool for doing a job like this he took a solid piece of steel shaft and took the head from an old hatchet that broke, welded the hatchet head on the shaft and boom put that in between the two rims and tap with a hammer lightly and they pop right off. The buddy tool you got there definitely is the more legit way to do it but when you’re in a pinch anything that works!
Years ago I drove a truck with dual rears to get the outside rim off I would drive over a block of wood with just the inner wheel 🛞 this transferred all the weight to the inner then I loosened the nuts a bit and a good tap and they separated. Copper grease would help
I do tractor trailer repair. I have been thinking of getting one of those. Right now I use a 10 ton Porta power and rams between rim and frame to push them off
I experienced this common issue of wheels stuck today. Did not have this tool so was forced to improvise. Tried the old hammer with no prevail. I ended up double stacking two 2x4's under the outside tire. Then I lowered and raised the axle a couple of times. On the third time I heard the wheel break free.
I found a nut that fit my ball joint forcing screw and welded a lip on the side of it. Works the exact same as that tool. I also cut an angle on a 5/8 bolt head to fit near the hat of the rotor to minimize damage. Works great Great video. Not a tool you need everyday but sometimes saves hours of bearing and heating the rim
A VERY nifty tool. Where was this when I needed it, during the years that I was actually working on my share of dually trucks? As for the removal method? The biggest sledge hammer I could get my hands on. As an alternative method, remove all the lug nuts and rethread two of the lug nuts on loosely and do a couple of "spirited" drives around the lot 'till they break free. I never did actually get the pleasure of trying that method.
I always clean the rim and hub and spray with never seize every time I have the wheels off . I had to use a porta power once to get a set off and now I always clean them .
What i do is use a 6x6 pressure treated beam under the truck against the tire/wheel so i can get a full swing with 20lb sledge. A prybar/wedge in between the two wheels to get the outer wheel off first. Gotten plenty of bad ones off our plow fleet
I had Alu mags stuck ion Opel hub. Needed to take off to repair puncture. Made a tool that pushed against disc brake. Was a bit of a mission at first but once I got the hang of it, went easy. Centre hub had corroded onto rim. Cleaned both sides and added a bit of copperslip to stop corrosion.
It's aluminum wheels they really like to be a real pain in the ass. Judging by the fact the truck has schitty continental tires, those back wheels haven't been off since the truck came from the factory.
I mean ya it worked!! My only concern would be potentially causes damage to a wheel, studs and or rotor. But if you know your placing studs and rotors then you only have to worry about the wheel. Cool tool though. Also little antiseize goes a long way when putting them back together.
say you don't know technology and innovation because you are stuck in the I used to do it another mentality. There has been more damage done from people using hammers than this tool could ever do
@@moneymoney12 ummmm ok. I have been a diesel mechanic for 15 years now. I didn't say I didn't like the tool. Just be mindful not to cause damage to the customers equipment. Why are you so angry?
@@OUTLAWBBQ I'm not angry; I am a very happy person! And I have been a mechanic for over 20 years. You can damage a customer's vehicle with any tool that you use. You can have a lazy mechanic that doesn't care or the next mechanic that is in a hurry and cause damage. One of the biggest problem tools that we, as mechanics, use that causes the most damage to customers' property is an Impact Driver. They are overused and are not used to start items. They are used to complete assignments in places where they are not designed, causing problems. Another problem is we are too lazy to cover the customer's seats, floor, and steering wheels because it would take us an extra few seconds to add, and not adding potentially causes us to leave oil/grease stains/dirt in their vehicles. The tool that we have that causes more damage is the improper lifting of the vehicles causing undercarriage damage. An additional tool that we have that cause problem or lack of tool is ignorance... deciding that it is ok to go through a customer's vehicle and try and steal their money or medicine or to take the customer's car on a test drive and treat it like we are on a racetrack or use it to go home, to lunch, etc. We can go on and on... Yet, when a customer comes in with issues like this, they typically live in a rust-belt area, work in, or travel through frequently, and 1. are coming to us because they have already tried to remove the rims and couldn't or 2. already have an idea or bases that there is going to be trouble getting the wheels off and are happy that WE ARE doing the work and not them. Again, you can cause damage to a person's vehicle through simple carelessness, and it happens all of the time. Such as forgetting a screwdriver is in your back pocket and then getting in the customer's car and punching a hole in the seat or scratching the interior as you get in or out. The lack of anti-seize is most likely caused by the last mechanic that worked (remember, some of us are lazy). Finally, we should be mindful of what tools we are using, how we are using them, and our surroundings at all times; we aren't working on toy cars... they are real, big, and have flammable and hazardous liquids; we work on them with hazardous chemicals, and some of our fellow mechanics are just plain ignorant and are a hazard to them, us and everyone in the shop! Be blessed
I lived on an island where we had to drive through 9-10 inches of sea water because the beach was the road. A tire got cut but still held air. After heating, hammering and lots of penetrant it wouldn't budge. I left the lug nuts 2 turns loose, then gave them a lot of paint. Drove on the worst bumps I could find for 2 days. Wheel popped loose. Snugged up the lugs, got home, fixed the tire.
Always place a light smear of anti seize on the hub face where the rotor mates up. I’ve heard people using a little film on the hub face on some DRWs but I don’t recommend that. That tool however is a great invention. Beats the old way of using a sledgehammer. Lol
I usually just loosen the lugnuts enough the rim will wobble safely and do some forward and backward stops to get any super stuck wheel loose. Sometimes it requires the e brake braking as brake while holding the e brake release for rear wheels and or some left to right shaking. Spraying wd40 or pb blaster through the lugnut stud holes when the nuts are off first if you can get to the holes along with the center. I used to try to kick them .etc but it usually works to just spray all the stud holes and center then do that. Once you see the tire is sideways , thunked loose or the rim is separated tighten the lugs snug and get everything including vehicle in position to remove the wheel. It also scrapes the rust, but sometimes it's good to use a wire brush with a oil or spray around that center to scrub everything smooth. You obviously don't want to damage the lug stud threads so the whole point is to get the nuts just loose enough for it to move with something like a half turn or full turn loose from snug.
Living in the rust belt as we do when you finish the brake job or tire rotation etc. do you put fluid flim on or something like that? Like Eric O from SMA to help mitigate future issues.
Nice tool, easy to make, just like their "guide buddy" for broken exhaust bolt extraction. I always apply anti seize between hub and inner rim, and between the rims. No problems.
I use a 5 pound sledge hammer and smack the sidewall of the tire inside out to break wheels loose off the hub. I mostly work on med duty and heavy duty trks though, the tires and wheels are a bit bigger. I did do the same thing on my F350 when I still had it just used a smaller hammer.
Air hammer with flat round bit. Go around between the studs a couple times to break up the rust and then the tires should come off. Then clean, paint, anti sieze to prevent it from happening again.
Air chisel , bought a locking chuck and won’t ever look back. Ball joint removal no time, stuck tie rod no problem. On this application hammer the face while spraying PB blaster, drink coffee, smoke cigarette, come back long chisel between the rims, off, more air chisel hammer on the face with PB blaster then pry bar in off the caliper working it 180, 90, 180 degrees till she slides off.
I just loosen the lug nuts a few turns and go drive the truck. They work themselves loose. I've even had to take the outside dual off and go drive it again.
I wish I had one of these right now. Taking the rears off my '08. I've had it 3 years and haven't taken them off. No clue how long they've been on. This truck came from Idaho...
And that is why I don't use penetrant, if I'm doing exhaust nuts I just use oil because half the time the nuts will break free an get caught up on open threads.
Hub centric wheels, another great Ford idea -. NOT. Use a carbide on cordless drill or half round bastard file and clean center of rim removing a small amount of material. Then lubricate with bearing grease. Anti seize has a tendency to dry out over time. You can do the same thing with alloy wheels on light duty vehicle's as well that use hub centric wheels.
I bought a 12lb dead blow sledge for just that purpose. Also take an air hammer with a flat bit to hit on the flat in between the lugs after spraying slickem. 99% of time though my big red pecker works fine.
I always keep 1 or two lug nuts remaining with a couple turns of thread. Old timer relayed a story where he once saw the tire break free from the rust and it launched straight off the axle. Put the worker in the hospital for a bit, could have killed him. Especially on the big trucks there is ALOT of built in tension.
Duhhhh...... like your carrying a generator and a compressor, or a combustible engine driven air compressor and a impact everywhere you go in case you need to change a tire on the road!
So many antiseize comments. Antiseize is great for you to put on there but it does not fix the fact the last guy didnt. Dont get it on your lug studs. It affects torque and they can also work loose. DRY! I consulted a bus place to do my tires and possibly get the rims unstuck, they and a local tire shop said they beat the rims with a sledgehammer. 😳 I used a chain, bottlejack, heat, wood blocks+sledge gingerly. Mine wasnt as bad as that one. I already found this tool last year when i researched it and did them. Combined with those methods i bet it would be even better. I still have to do the passenger side, so i may buy one.
I was trying to get a wheel hub off on a rusty car. Nothing would work and didn’t have a puller. So I used a air chisel with blunt tip. Worked it around the face for a bit. Worked like a charm came right off.
That's exactky how you should try to get stuck wheels off preliminarily. If the wheels wont come off, put the lugs back on , finger tight only, then loosen 1/2 turn Then take it out for a spin on some rocks / jarrring curbs/ donuts If that doesnt work, spray acetone Nd atf mix between the hubs If that doesnt work, the wheels are so corroded, that you now know that you dont need to baby them Get a wide slender air chisel on between and get on with your day. Extra time = extra money
I would just use propane torch to heat center of rim. Always works on pickups and cars with steel rims. Quick heat up wont even ruin paint. Greetings from Finland!
Where was this video last week when I spent several hours hammering and heating and spraying a set of these wheels?!! Great product, you've got me sold. Btw how do you balance these things? The hub center is too big for all my adapters on the balancer.
I had my duals stick together and wouldn't come off I took all the lugnuts off except 2 loosen I stuck a 6 inch steel pipe between the tires drove forward and bam they weren't stuck together anymore
Are you running this on your 6.7?
ruclips.net/video/cjU58qkdW1U/видео.html
Arod, sorry dont know how to DM on RUclips. My 2021 6.7 did something strange this morning. Cold morning for Texas 37F high idled (1100rpm) until warm (ECT 120+F). All seemed normal still high idling, then my turbo spooled up at high idle 8lbs of boost. Engine louder than normal but didnt sound unhealthy. Any ideas? Defroster turned up to max, could it be from a voltage drop, or EGR activation? Truck drove like a dream per usual, didnt miss a lick. Unfortunately didnt have time to troubleshoot with scanner. Any insight is very appreciated and thanks for all you do for the 6.7 community.
Youll have 2 email us.
I was working on an f550 one afternoon. The rims were totally rusted on as I live in Maine and it was a plow/sand truck. I tried every tool and way I could think of but nothing was working. An old farmer had stoped by the shop and told me the easiest and best way for your body to remove the stuck wheels. Just loosen the lug nuts so they are 1/16" away from the rim but still fully on the studs. Then take the truck amd just drive it around the lot and over some bumps. It will pop off and move ever so slightly but never enough to damage the studs or any other break/suspension component. It has saved my back and tools for years now!
In the first step you need to bite the outer part of the opening in the rim not the inner (outside rim). That's why it kept slipping. Hopefully that is understandable.
Yeah we already went over this thanks
I always clean the mounting surfaces of the duals and paint on the anti-seize. Seems to help, I never had a dual super stuck since. Most if not all I could just use my feet or a sledge on the rubber tire and it comes loose.
I work for a highway department and with salt this is a huge issue. We take the wheels off when the vehicle is BRAND NEW, sand off the new paint on the hub and liberally coat that area with anti seize. It really works. I will get this tool, though. Much better than the huge press you can buy that rolls around on it's own cart.
Pause at 3:17. That's how that tool should catch the outer upper lip of the rim. I think it would then push straight out instead of at an angle. I could be wrong.
Like your videos
Me thinks you are right.
I kept thinking he was doing it wrong. It just made sense to me that it goes the way you describe.
You're right.
I have used a short chain with a hook on each end. I would place a bottle jack on its side, against the axle, and prop it up with wooden blocks. I would then attach the chain to the wheel and pump the jack. I leave 2 lug nuts loosely on to keep the wheel from flying off.
This is the way to go! Taken many of these wheels of exactly as you described
Good tip
When I worked in the salvage yard we threw a cement block at it and it usually worked every time. Just like bowling we would actually get a little run at it never had any damage.
I actually ordered one of them the other day. I haven’t used it just yet so I got a video on it thanks.
I always have backed the lugs off a couple of turns, hosed the hub and studs with FreeAll, and cut donuts until the wheel comes unstuck. So far it has always worked. BTW, if you are using antiseize for corrosion, be sure to use the marine grade. Standard antiseize is really only to prevent galling.
'Cut donuts until the wheels [fall off]': Ditto.
@@markschultz1606 To avoid anybody doing that, I want to be clear: DO NOT REMOVE THE LUGS---ONLY LOOSEN TWO TURNS. Thanks for bringing to my attention that others might misinterpret my meaning.
@@channelview8854 - Could just be how this lunatic interpreted meaning. 🤣👍
Works EVERY time. Plus works wonders on the aluminum car tires that corrode on. NEVER had one I couldn't loosen.
my tech school had a line of 4 or 5 speed bumps spaced about 5 feet apart that we used for doing that. usually only took 1 or 2 trips over them for even the most stubborn wheels
Anti seize, be proactive.
Anti seize dosent work very well in the rust belt
@@johnmorrow1628 I beg to differ
@@johnmorrow1628 we use a copper/aluminum mixture from Tifco on every one we come across. We prep the hubs and load em up, the wheels always come off after this. We live in the north east, we know about rust as well.
I’m in Michigan and works well for me. Have never had a lug nut or wheel hub rust up and not come off.
Not his problem or his own truck.
Everyone can preach preventative maintenance but when it comes into a shop you never know what your getting
As a DIY car guy in the rust belt, those pops are so satisfying. I don't care how much anti-sieze you use, unless you're God himself after a few winters your tires are going to be welded onto the hub.
My dad wanted to teach me a lesson to appreciate power tools when I first was learning. He had me try and remove a single rust welded tire by hand. 1 hour of futile pounding with a 5lbs mallet later, it was still stuck. so he came out with his air hammer and the thing came right off.
Lololol now u know
I always would loosen the lugs and do a couple figure eights in the parking lot. It has never not worked for me.
Mix ATF and acetone at 50/50 ratio. Shake bottle before each use as it separates. Stuff works amazing!
Loosen lugs, soak studs and mating surface, hand tighten, hoon around the block, proceed with brakes.
They were well corroded! On my truck when changing wheels between summer and winter I loosened the lug nuts one turn and go for a short drive. This only happens on the summer rims which are alloy, I also use anti seize on the hub assembly.
Seems like a good way to bend the wheels!
And warp the brake discs.
Yeh no
Holy cow. Never thought it would so hard to get a wheel off. That kicks ass Bro!
Excellent tool, a must have for any dually owner.
No I’ve never had too I’ve got the Alcoa rims . But I’m going to buy one
its always good to lube your forcing screw. help your tool last.
All you need is a small bottle jack you put the base of the jack on the inside lip of the dually as in the inner. And face the top of the Jack and Brace it to one of the u-bolts. Start pumping that Jack and they'll both break loose at the same time
Great Tool Works Great !!! Use it on our Municipal Fleet of Plow Trucks. Clean area and use Fluid Film on reassembly.
Begs the question- use it on any trucks with rear discs? Does it damage the discs?
No
Thanks for showing us how to use that tool, picked something similar up and was wondering how to use it properly. Now I know, thanks.
Simplest is to way loosen your Lugnuts a little bit like a couple of turns take a drive around the block real quick and Wala.
Nice tool to have. Thanks for sharing ARod
I've seen many videos of wheels falling off vehicles. This is not one of those vehicles..... Good to know this tools exists if I start working on dual tire trucks. Good vid!
A buddy of mine made a homemade tool for doing a job like this he took a solid piece of steel shaft and took the head from an old hatchet that broke, welded the hatchet head on the shaft and boom put that in between the two rims and tap with a hammer lightly and they pop right off. The buddy tool you got there definitely is the more legit way to do it but when you’re in a pinch anything that works!
I find a 1.3 tonne digger usually does the job
And also sometimes the tyre 😂
Years ago I drove a truck with dual rears to get the outside rim off I would drive over a block of wood with just the inner wheel 🛞 this transferred all the weight to the inner then I loosened the nuts a bit and a good tap and they separated. Copper grease would help
I do tractor trailer repair. I have been thinking of getting one of those. Right now I use a 10 ton Porta power and rams between rim and frame to push them off
I LOVE THAT!!! GOING TO ORDER ONE RIGHT NOW!!!
dang that its slick I have used a 10 ton ram and a straight bar between them Hydraulics always wins in the end lol
I experienced this common issue of wheels stuck today. Did not have this tool so was forced to improvise. Tried the old hammer with no prevail. I ended up double stacking two 2x4's under the outside tire. Then I lowered and raised the axle a couple of times. On the third time I heard the wheel break free.
I found a nut that fit my ball joint forcing screw and welded a lip on the side of it. Works the exact same as that tool.
I also cut an angle on a 5/8 bolt head to fit near the hat of the rotor to minimize damage. Works great
Great video.
Not a tool you need everyday but sometimes saves hours of bearing and heating the rim
A VERY nifty tool. Where was this when I needed it, during the years that I was actually working on my share of dually trucks? As for the removal method? The biggest sledge hammer I could get my hands on.
As an alternative method, remove all the lug nuts and rethread two of the lug nuts on loosely and do a couple of "spirited" drives around the lot 'till they break free. I never did actually get the pleasure of trying that method.
Hey buddy, hope your well
I always clean the rim and hub and spray with never seize every time I have the wheels off . I had to use a porta power once to get a set off and now I always clean them .
Custom bottle jack an a chain with pinch hooks. Always lube Always leave a nut half on unless you enjoy wearing a wheel. Works well on semis
What i do is use a 6x6 pressure treated beam under the truck against the tire/wheel so i can get a full swing with 20lb sledge. A prybar/wedge in between the two wheels to get the outer wheel off first. Gotten plenty of bad ones off our plow fleet
I had Alu mags stuck ion Opel hub. Needed to take off to repair puncture. Made a tool that pushed against disc brake. Was a bit of a mission at first but once I got the hang of it, went easy. Centre hub had corroded onto rim. Cleaned both sides and added a bit of copperslip to stop corrosion.
That's friggin genius!! I hate trying to get rusty rims off!
It's aluminum wheels they really like to be a real pain in the ass. Judging by the fact the truck has schitty continental tires, those back wheels haven't been off since the truck came from the factory.
A couple of days prior to work I loosen the lug nuts a few threads and then drive her hard. Everything loosens up real nice
I use my porta-power, same idea, those rims blow to get off. Fun Times!
I mean ya it worked!! My only concern would be potentially causes damage to a wheel, studs and or rotor. But if you know your placing studs and rotors then you only have to worry about the wheel. Cool tool though. Also little antiseize goes a long way when putting them back together.
say you don't know technology and innovation because you are stuck in the I used to do it another mentality. There has been more damage done from people using hammers than this tool could ever do
@@moneymoney12 ummmm ok. I have been a diesel mechanic for 15 years now. I didn't say I didn't like the tool. Just be mindful not to cause damage to the customers equipment. Why are you so angry?
@@OUTLAWBBQ lol angry people are normally pretty stupid too
@@OUTLAWBBQ I'm not angry; I am a very happy person! And I have been a mechanic for over 20 years. You can damage a customer's vehicle with any tool that you use. You can have a lazy mechanic that doesn't care or the next mechanic that is in a hurry and cause damage. One of the biggest problem tools that we, as mechanics, use that causes the most damage to customers' property is an Impact Driver. They are overused and are not used to start items. They are used to complete assignments in places where they are not designed, causing problems. Another problem is we are too lazy to cover the customer's seats, floor, and steering wheels because it would take us an extra few seconds to add, and not adding potentially causes us to leave oil/grease stains/dirt in their vehicles. The tool that we have that causes more damage is the improper lifting of the vehicles causing undercarriage damage. An additional tool that we have that cause problem or lack of tool is ignorance... deciding that it is ok to go through a customer's vehicle and try and steal their money or medicine or to take the customer's car on a test drive and treat it like we are on a racetrack or use it to go home, to lunch, etc. We can go on and on...
Yet, when a customer comes in with issues like this, they typically live in a rust-belt area, work in, or travel through frequently, and 1. are coming to us because they have already tried to remove the rims and couldn't or 2. already have an idea or bases that there is going to be trouble getting the wheels off and are happy that WE ARE doing the work and not them.
Again, you can cause damage to a person's vehicle through simple carelessness, and it happens all of the time. Such as forgetting a screwdriver is in your back pocket and then getting in the customer's car and punching a hole in the seat or scratching the interior as you get in or out.
The lack of anti-seize is most likely caused by the last mechanic that worked (remember, some of us are lazy).
Finally, we should be mindful of what tools we are using, how we are using them, and our surroundings at all times; we aren't working on toy cars... they are real, big, and have flammable and hazardous liquids; we work on them with hazardous chemicals, and some of our fellow mechanics are just plain ignorant and are a hazard to them, us and everyone in the shop!
Be blessed
@@moneymoney12 I agree. You be blessed also 🙏
Drive around lot sharp left and right circles with 4 somewhat loose nuts. Usually pop free in a couple circles
That’s crazy! We never see that kind of rust here in Phoenix. Thanks for the video of that tool tho
I lived on an island where we had to drive through 9-10 inches of sea water because the beach was the road. A tire got cut but still held air. After heating, hammering and lots of penetrant it wouldn't budge. I left the lug nuts 2 turns loose, then gave them a lot of paint. Drove on the worst bumps I could find for 2 days. Wheel popped loose. Snugged up the lugs, got home, fixed the tire.
That definitely looks like a game changer! Made quick work of getting them off.
🤙🤙🙌🙌🙌🙌😎😎😎
I send that work down the street, nothing but gravy for me
Always place a light smear of anti seize on the hub face where the rotor mates up. I’ve heard people using a little film on the hub face on some DRWs but I don’t recommend that.
That tool however is a great invention. Beats the old way of using a sledgehammer. Lol
I usually just loosen the lugnuts enough the rim will wobble safely and do some forward and backward stops to get any super stuck wheel loose.
Sometimes it requires the e brake braking as brake while holding the e brake release for rear wheels and or some left to right shaking.
Spraying wd40 or pb blaster through the lugnut stud holes when the nuts are off first if you can get to the holes along with the center.
I used to try to kick them .etc but it usually works to just spray all the stud holes and center then do that.
Once you see the tire is sideways , thunked loose or the rim is separated tighten the lugs snug and get everything including vehicle in position to remove the wheel.
It also scrapes the rust, but sometimes it's good to use a wire brush with a oil or spray around that center to scrub everything smooth.
You obviously don't want to damage the lug stud threads so the whole point is to get the nuts just loose enough for it to move with something like a half turn or full turn loose from snug.
I'm sold any tool that comes in a gun case is worth my money
I feel lucky that I’ve never needed that tool. I’ve removed plenty of 22.5- 24.5 duals and never had them seized that hard.
Living in the rust belt as we do when you finish the brake job or tire rotation etc. do you put fluid flim on or something like that? Like Eric O from SMA to help mitigate future issues.
Ypupppppppp
Nice tool, easy to make, just like their "guide buddy" for broken exhaust bolt extraction. I always apply anti seize between hub and inner rim, and between the rims. No problems.
I use a 5 pound sledge hammer and smack the sidewall of the tire inside out to break wheels loose off the hub. I mostly work on med duty and heavy duty trks though, the tires and wheels are a bit bigger. I did do the same thing on my F350 when I still had it just used a smaller hammer.
Leave a few lugs loose and go do a few turns in the parking lot
That's the kind of tool that is worth its weight in gold
I would say that an air hammer with a flat tip moving it around between the studs should free up quite a bit of that rust
Air hammer with flat round bit. Go around between the studs a couple times to break up the rust and then the tires should come off. Then clean, paint, anti sieze to prevent it from happening again.
The notch on the nut is supposed to grab the outer rim on the outer lip of the rim slot, no?
Air chisel , bought a locking chuck and won’t ever look back. Ball joint removal no time, stuck tie rod no problem. On this application hammer the face while spraying PB blaster, drink coffee, smoke cigarette, come back long chisel between the rims, off, more air chisel hammer on the face with PB blaster then pry bar in off the caliper working it 180, 90, 180 degrees till she slides off.
I just loosen the lug nuts a few turns and go drive the truck. They work themselves loose. I've even had to take the outside dual off and go drive it again.
I wish I had one of these right now. Taking the rears off my '08. I've had it 3 years and haven't taken them off. No clue how long they've been on. This truck came from Idaho...
Impressive tool. Those rims were stuck af!
And that is why I don't use penetrant, if I'm doing exhaust nuts I just use oil because half the time the nuts will break free an get caught up on open threads.
Thanks for the video. I'm needing to buy a tool for my deully pickup. Because I've had the same problems.
Order em up, great folks over there. Tell em where ya found it💪
I definitely need this. I do a lot of rear brakes
Callem up, tell em i sent cha
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh you know the deal 😁
Hub centric wheels, another great Ford idea -. NOT.
Use a carbide on cordless drill or half round bastard file and clean center of rim removing a small amount of material. Then lubricate with bearing grease. Anti seize has a tendency to dry out over time.
You can do the same thing with alloy wheels on light duty vehicle's as well that use hub centric wheels.
I bought a 12lb dead blow sledge for just that purpose. Also take an air hammer with a flat bit to hit on the flat in between the lugs after spraying slickem. 99% of time though my big red pecker works fine.
I always keep 1 or two lug nuts remaining with a couple turns of thread. Old timer relayed a story where he once saw the tire break free from the rust and it launched straight off the axle. Put the worker in the hospital for a bit, could have killed him. Especially on the big trucks there is ALOT of built in tension.
Nifty little tool for a dually owner to have who likes to do their own repairs
Duhhhh...... like your carrying a generator and a compressor, or a combustible engine driven air compressor and a impact everywhere you go in case you need to change a tire on the road!
How about rotate tires on schedule and maybe a wire wheel on a grinder before a touch of flat black. No rust no problem....
Right. Lol. One of the guys in the comments mentioned they're the factory tires.
Forklift works great
Now THAT is quite the nifty tool to have on hand.
You need 1.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod not at the moment but quite possibly soon.
Cool tool!
So many antiseize comments. Antiseize is great for you to put on there but it does not fix the fact the last guy didnt.
Dont get it on your lug studs. It affects torque and they can also work loose. DRY!
I consulted a bus place to do my tires and possibly get the rims unstuck, they and a local tire shop said they beat the rims with a sledgehammer. 😳
I used a chain, bottlejack, heat, wood blocks+sledge gingerly. Mine wasnt as bad as that one. I already found this tool last year when i researched it and did them. Combined with those methods i bet it would be even better. I still have to do the passenger side, so i may buy one.
My dad was a diesel mechanic for 35 years for brinks and He ALWAYS PUT ANTISEIZE ON THE BOLTS. I CAN ASSURE YOU IT WORKS
you gotta get the wheels off first
I always use the big boy’s torch to get them off
I was trying to get a wheel hub off on a rusty car. Nothing would work and didn’t have a puller. So I used a air chisel with blunt tip. Worked it around the face for a bit. Worked like a charm came right off.
And is that a Massachusetts phone number I see. Love to see stuff made in my home state
Yessiir
Man that thing is sweet
That was so satisfying
Geez don’t even need lug nuts with that rust weld 😂
That's exactky how you should try to get stuck wheels off preliminarily.
If the wheels wont come off, put the lugs back on , finger tight only, then loosen 1/2 turn
Then take it out for a spin on some rocks / jarrring curbs/ donuts
If that doesnt work, spray acetone Nd atf mix between the hubs
If that doesnt work, the wheels are so corroded, that you now know that you dont need to baby them
Get a wide slender air chisel on between and get on with your day.
Extra time = extra money
Chain and a forklift works too 😂
At my work we just use hammers to beat them off but showing Thai to my boss so we can get one for the shop
Nice tool... Seems like a very simple homemade copy to build...
I would just use propane torch to heat center of rim. Always works on pickups and cars with steel rims. Quick heat up wont even ruin paint. Greetings from Finland!
Greetings my friend
I've never had that tool or that problem
Thats why I own GMC dually
That makes entirely no difference
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod my dually never sticks there rotated every 5000 miles. My newest one is an 2002 with 750000 miles on it
This IS the rust belt
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I hear you I'm in N.M. it's bad but not the rust belt bad. keep the videos comin
Glad to have a need for only a SRW 17 F350...will share with my fat bottom friends with duallys.
Handy tool, easy to make too.
Don’t have that problem done here in the south !
Were the rims STUCK ON or RUSTED ON? I saw quite a bit of rust around
those lug studs. Would never seize betwix the 2 rims help next time?
!
Stuck rusted same thing. Yes anti sieze wld werk too!
Where was this video last week when I spent several hours hammering and heating and spraying a set of these wheels?!! Great product, you've got me sold. Btw how do you balance these things? The hub center is too big for all my adapters on the balancer.
I think there was an add on adapter
Need some metal protector for them hubs
20 sledgehammer works good semi tires 👌
Must have! What do you think about putting some never seize on the mating parts when you reassemble?
💯💯💯
Didn't know this was a thing.
Take the handle off of a floor jack and pry in-between the tires.
I had my duals stick together and wouldn't come off I took all the lugnuts off except 2 loosen I stuck a 6 inch steel pipe between the tires drove forward and bam they weren't stuck together anymore