Thank you so much for this video. I wanted to replace the ageing thermocouple on my FMI natural gas fireplace. The thermocouple was routed from the rear of the valve and made it very difficult to remove. After disassembling the thermocouple, I discovered a white plastic piece and a loose blue wire dangling from the rear of the valve. I had no idea where they came from or what their purpose was. I searched RUclips and came across your thorough presentation on the two possible thermocouple connections on the SIT 820 NOVA Gas Valve. You also answered what these two pieces were and how they contribute to the overall safety of the fireplace. In the end I opted for the t-connection in the front of the valve, making it a whole lot easier to access if I ever have to replace the t-connection again. Thanks again!
This video saved my day today . I had it into the rear of the valve . (Like the old valve ) the new one was set to the front option. Never knew . Great video !!! Thank you !
I have this same 820 SIT Valve. When I press in on PILOT, I get gas to the pilot, and to the main burner. Aside from that, it works normal. Of course this also means when you turn from ON to PILOT, it stays running. I don't care, because I'm happy to manually start and stop this only when I use it. I'm just unsure if there is a safety issue here? I'm starting to think this has a diaphragm in it that is ruptured, that could cause this?
Hey there. Thank you for this video and for responding to comments. I just installed a brand new valve (replaced a Honeywell), but in the testing phase, whenever I turned from OFF to PILOT, it opened the valve to the pilot- allowing gas to flow even without manually depressing the pilot button. I've replaced a couple of these before and this has never happened. Thought maybe it was to do with having assumed I would run the thermocouple off the front valve outlet, and maybe it needs to run off the rear? Or maybe just a bad magnet? How is the thermo position determined? Or can one simply choose which port to use for the thermo, so long as the blue wire is also connected there? Thanks!
The valve should not do that. So either a bad valve or something is hooked up wrong, and I'm not sure what could be hooked up wrong to make the gas flow before it is supposed to... not good
Hola, luego de ver tu video de una válvula parecida a la de mi caldera me surge hacerte una pregunta. Sabes si la válvula Elettrosit 810 s2 lleva también una pila, ya que enciende el piloto pero los quemadores no. Muchas gracias
Hi thanks for this video. Question on this exact valve. It’s started with pilot not staying on, after turning to on position. Have replaced thermocouple. No luck still pilot won’t stay on. And now for some reason, not getting any gas to pilot at all. Have taken the valve apart, clean it, still no gas at pilot. Your advice will be appreciated.
1st- I would NEVER EVER recommend taking the gas valve apart. There are no field serviceable parts inside. 2nd--if your thermocouple is generating enough voltage and the connection from the thermocouple to the gas valve is solid and correct to conduct the 10 to 20 millivolts and it still does not hold pilot... then it is either a bad gas valve or you have other parts in this electrical loop (like a vent spill switch)
Thanks for this video. I have several of these valves and the low setting is now low enough. Is there a way to adjust the High/Low adjustment so the flow can be reduced more? Or do I have to add an external regulator and then increase the pilot flow?
Your appliance is only tested and listed between a certain range from high to low...so I would not mess with that. Nor would I add another regulator upstream...then everything would be off. Delayed ignition can be a serious problem if your manifold pressure is to low.
@@stevenchristini2263 SIT has different regulators for the valve. (The part with the High/Low knob). BUT...your appliance is designed for the range they made it with, tested it with. Changing that could lead to problems like delayed ignition or combustion problems.
what is the difference between a "Vent Free" valve and a non vent free valve. Can a valve for a fireplace like the one here with just a thermocouple be used instead of of using a valve with a thermocouple and a pilot generator ? Thank you
the valve is not the key whether it will work for a "vent free" or not... the pilot assembly in a vent free is very specific design called "ODS" which reacts to the percentage of oxygen in the room... Any combustion is burning up oxygen so the ODS design is a very accurate and safe way to ensure the burner will shut off before we have a problem.
Do you know what holds the blue wire to the plastic valve in order to make contact with the thermocouple? I lost the internal connection for the plastic valve and it doesn't make the connection anymore with the thermocouple.
At the end of the blue wire is a flat metal plate (male spade connector). I believe it is both crimped onto the end of the wire and likely soldered too. This flat connector is slide into a special white plastic housing to hold it in place for the end of the thermocouple to be pressed firmly in place then it is tightened down (finger tight us 1/4 turn)
The thermostat connection on mine randomly stops and I have to jiggle it for it to turn on. Not the wire the connection on the nova gas valve. Is there a way to fix that? I put a little force on it and it turns the gas stove on and stays on but it seems like it doesn’t connect for long and shuts off.
it is considered common maintenance to remove t-stat wire and clean the ends of the wire (both at the valve and at the t-stat) and reattach to ensure a solid connection. if the issue is internal to the gas valve it must be replaced
I am 99% sure that little plastic piece is NOT a part sold by itself. But if you know some fireplace gas techs (local gas fireplace shop) they might have some old valves they could cannibalize for that part?
I have got a gas valve the exact same one that the pilot light will stay lit and run all day long soon as I turn the gas on it fires up it will run for about 2 minutes a click and everything turns off what would that be
2 things some to mind for this: 1) the thermocouple is not tightened into pilot assembly bracket (finger tight plus 1/4 turn). This results in the entire thermocouple getting hot instead of only the top 1/3 getting hot from the pilot flame. 2) once we start to get a good draft we are causing turbulence at the pilot flame. Could need a pilot shield or a method to slow down the draft.
to adjust the manifold pressure would require changing the regulator.... unless it has the clever SIT regulator that has a special designed screw in the "High/Low" adjustment knob that can be flipped 180 degrees to change from NG to LP
yes, we can test the resistance for the part of the valve that opens the main burner gas flow with a standard ohm meter. But to test the part of the valve that controls the pilot gas flow requires an expensive (rare) ohm meter to read super small amount of resistance.
Thank you so much for this video. I wanted to replace the ageing thermocouple on my FMI natural gas fireplace. The thermocouple was routed from the rear of the valve and made it very difficult to remove. After disassembling the thermocouple, I discovered a white plastic piece and a loose blue wire dangling from the rear of the valve. I had no idea where they came from or what their purpose was. I searched RUclips and came across your thorough presentation on the two possible thermocouple connections on the SIT 820 NOVA Gas Valve. You also answered what these two pieces were and how they contribute to the overall safety of the fireplace. In the end I opted for the t-connection in the front of the valve, making it a whole lot easier to access if I ever have to replace the t-connection again. Thanks again!
This video saved my day today . I had it into the rear of the valve . (Like the old valve ) the new one was set to the front option. Never knew . Great video !!! Thank you !
Thanks so much, you saved me!!!!
Pilot gas valve only .Great info for sure .Pilot works but can,t get the main burner to operate at all .???
I have this same 820 SIT Valve. When I press in on PILOT, I get gas to the pilot, and to the main burner. Aside from that, it works normal. Of course this also means when you turn from ON to PILOT, it stays running. I don't care, because I'm happy to manually start and stop this only when I use it. I'm just unsure if there is a safety issue here? I'm starting to think this has a diaphragm in it that is ruptured, that could cause this?
It needs separate ignitor?
Thanks, Nice, and how to restore the contact to spark generator, the light grey plastic on the top of the valve.
Hey there. Thank you for this video and for responding to comments. I just installed a brand new valve (replaced a Honeywell), but in the testing phase, whenever I turned from OFF to PILOT, it opened the valve to the pilot- allowing gas to flow even without manually depressing the pilot button. I've replaced a couple of these before and this has never happened. Thought maybe it was to do with having assumed I would run the thermocouple off the front valve outlet, and maybe it needs to run off the rear? Or maybe just a bad magnet? How is the thermo position determined? Or can one simply choose which port to use for the thermo, so long as the blue wire is also connected there? Thanks!
The valve should not do that. So either a bad valve or something is hooked up wrong, and I'm not sure what could be hooked up wrong to make the gas flow before it is supposed to... not good
Hola, luego de ver tu video de una válvula parecida a la de mi caldera me surge hacerte una pregunta. Sabes si la válvula Elettrosit 810 s2 lleva también una pila, ya que enciende el piloto pero los quemadores no. Muchas gracias
Hi thanks for this video. Question on this exact valve. It’s started with pilot not staying on, after turning to on position. Have replaced thermocouple. No luck still pilot won’t stay on. And now for some reason, not getting any gas to pilot at all. Have taken the valve apart, clean it, still no gas at pilot. Your advice will be appreciated.
1st- I would NEVER EVER recommend taking the gas valve apart. There are no field serviceable parts inside. 2nd--if your thermocouple is generating enough voltage and the connection from the thermocouple to the gas valve is solid and correct to conduct the 10 to 20 millivolts and it still does not hold pilot... then it is either a bad gas valve or you have other parts in this electrical loop (like a vent spill switch)
Thanks for this video. I have several of these valves and the low setting is now low enough. Is there a way to adjust the High/Low adjustment so the flow can be reduced more? Or do I have to add an external regulator and then increase the pilot flow?
Your appliance is only tested and listed between a certain range from high to low...so I would not mess with that. Nor would I add another regulator upstream...then everything would be off.
Delayed ignition can be a serious problem if your manifold pressure is to low.
@@AEStechnical Thank you. Is there a compatible SIT model (or other) that would have a larger adjustable range?
@@stevenchristini2263 SIT has different regulators for the valve. (The part with the High/Low knob). BUT...your appliance is designed for the range they made it with, tested it with. Changing that could lead to problems like delayed ignition or combustion problems.
@@AEStechnical OK. Thank you very much for all of this information. Very helpful!
what is the difference between a "Vent Free" valve and a non vent free
valve. Can a valve for a fireplace like the one here with just a
thermocouple be used instead of of using a valve with a thermocouple and
a pilot generator ? Thank you
the valve is not the key whether it will work for a "vent free" or not... the pilot assembly in a vent free is very specific design called "ODS" which reacts to the percentage of oxygen in the room... Any combustion is burning up oxygen so the ODS design is a very accurate and safe way to ensure the burner will shut off before we have a problem.
Do you know what holds the blue wire to the plastic valve in order to make contact with the thermocouple? I lost the internal connection for the plastic valve and it doesn't make the connection anymore with the thermocouple.
At the end of the blue wire is a flat metal plate (male spade connector). I believe it is both crimped onto the end of the wire and likely soldered too. This flat connector is slide into a special white plastic housing to hold it in place for the end of the thermocouple to be pressed firmly in place then it is tightened down (finger tight us 1/4 turn)
The thermostat connection on mine randomly stops and I have to jiggle it for it to turn on. Not the wire the connection on the nova gas valve. Is there a way to fix that? I put a little force on it and it turns the gas stove on and stays on but it seems like it doesn’t connect for long and shuts off.
it is considered common maintenance to remove t-stat wire and clean the ends of the wire (both at the valve and at the t-stat) and reattach to ensure a solid connection. if the issue is internal to the gas valve it must be replaced
what is the name of the white plastic that goes on the blue wire? I dropped mine where I can't retrieve it. And do you know where I can buy this part?
I am 99% sure that little plastic piece is NOT a part sold by itself. But if you know some fireplace gas techs (local gas fireplace shop) they might have some old valves they could cannibalize for that part?
Can you help me figure out where to install the igniter wire?
The igniter will not normally attach to the gas valve. It will depend on the brand and model of the fireplace/stove.
I have got a gas valve the exact same one that the pilot light will stay lit and run all day long soon as I turn the gas on it fires up it will run for about 2 minutes a click and everything turns off what would that be
Did you ever find an answer to this? Having the same issue and I cannot work it out
2 things some to mind for this:
1) the thermocouple is not tightened into pilot assembly bracket (finger tight plus 1/4 turn). This results in the entire thermocouple getting hot instead of only the top 1/3 getting hot from the pilot flame.
2) once we start to get a good draft we are causing turbulence at the pilot flame. Could need a pilot shield or a method to slow down the draft.
Hi, where's the adjustment screw to adjust manifold gas pressure? Thanks
to adjust the manifold pressure would require changing the regulator.... unless it has the clever SIT regulator that has a special designed screw in the "High/Low" adjustment knob that can be flipped 180 degrees to change from NG to LP
Thanks , hay- is there any way to test this valve with an ohm meter?
yes, we can test the resistance for the part of the valve that opens the main burner gas flow with a standard ohm meter. But to test the part of the valve that controls the pilot gas flow requires an expensive (rare) ohm meter to read super small amount of resistance.