BMW Z4: How To Replace The Water Pump And Thermostat
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Brian Eslick from How to Automotive www.howtoautomo... takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the water pump and thermostat on a 2003-2009 BMW E85/E86 Z4 2.5L-3.0 L engine.
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for BMW WATER PUMP Germany OEM HEPU P472 amzn.to/2jq85Rv
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for MAHLE ORIGINAL TM1397 Map-Controlled Thermostat amzn.to/2x0Tijw
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for BMW Coolant amzn.to/2fZ6DyY
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Milwaukee 2457-21 3/8-in Cordless M12 Lithium-Ion Ratchet Kit amzn.to/2xzQwor
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Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick. #howtoautomotive #AutoRepair #BrianEslick
2003 2.5L Z4. I started out removing the intake manifold to replace the plastic CCV system and plastic heater pipes but then decided it would be best to replace the associated rubber heater hoses too. Then I decided I should replace the radiator hoses, thermostat and water pump. Everything went well until I discovered the water pump wouldn't come out all the way. Your video saved me. It was so simple after that. It worked just as you showed. Thanks.
Is the 2003 2.5L Z4 the same as this?
@@KB-cw5tt - If you mean is it the same as what is shown in the video, then yes it is the same.
Most underrated channel. So many DIY channels out there that spend half their time talking about nothing with not as much detail. The people who have their cars repaired by you are very lucky, so many dishonest mechanics out there.
OoDeucexoO thank you!!
You make great vids Brian. You manage to catch all of the right angles to see exactly what you're talking about. The only improvement that I can think of is adding the torque specs as you go, or voice them over in your commentary.
Thanks Brian
Rob's Wrenches thank you Rob. I'm always working on improving the videos
Great video. Thanks for the tip on Jacking the engine up. I owe you a beer!
Congrats on another excellent video.
Not even one knuckle busted
or curse about BMW hyper engineering.
A tip of my hat to you sir !
jafxdwg thank you!
Thanks for video, I was nomally using BMW manuals for replacement. For water pump it gives much much more components needed to be removed. This underside solution saved my time and made the work neat, thank you!
Also when removing the drive belts there are holes in the casings, you can see it at 1 min to the right of the ratchet. you can put a small dowell in there to hold the tension, I actually used an old drill bit, makes replacing them a breeze!
How do we take off these belts again bro you're not showing a clear picture or right description for tools to use for torque
Thank you for this great tutorial, it would be good to change the jar of the cooling liquid at the same time.
great video! its still helpful in 2020!!
Great video. Thanks. My only suggestion to people making these videos is to indicate how long it took to do the job. That way, I can multiply it by 3 or so to give me an idea how long it will take me. Thanks.
Great video, I like how you're so fast and concise in you explanation. However, I think there is value in seeing you actually do each of the screws/bolts/nuts all the way out so that diys get the idea of how easy/difficult each task is. Then we will also see how you get around any stubborn bolts/nuts and how much force is needed.
Other than that, could be better, thanks Brian!
Guy Ligier I'm always working on them to make them better. It's tough to figure out what you're going to leave in and out of the videos. Some of these jobs are three to four hours and you have to condense them down to 10 to 15 minutes
Just an FYI, on my 2003 Z4, that lower tensioner for the A/C belt is actually a T-60 torx. A 55 might work, but it's actually a T-60 (at least it is on mine).
At 4:02, referring to the motor mount, you state "we have to loosen two nuts that are holding it down. However, you only remove one nut. Was the reference to two nuts just misspeaking, or is there a second nut to loosen that you didn't show?
I am wondering the same
Great video \ tremendous help and tip on getting the water pump out!
Nice video. I had trouble seeing and getting to the two bolts under the thermostat and had to use a mirror to help. There is not enough room to get both hands between the fan crossmember and the thermostat. Working with a mirror was tough. I would recommend removing the airbox and removing the plastic over over the top of the radiator (that covered the bleeder screw) first, before starting the project. This would have given me better access and I could have seen the bolts on the thermostat that I used the mirror to see. BMW should have a class-action suit against it for not properly designing the from radiator support correctly. Such a long engine bay, but THIS flaw! A simple 1 inch adjustment or carve-out could have saved a lot of time and uncertainty as I jacked the engine up to get the pump out. If I ever have the engine out, I will modify that bracket with a Sawzall or the trusty hammer. This was not a tough job, it just took a little time.
Excellent video. I'd like to suggest an easier way to lift the driver's side of the engine, I used a 2x4 as a bridge with one end on the driver's side strut tower brace and the other end on the core support. I placed a scissor jack on top of the 2x4. Used a ratchet strap as a sling, looping it under the bracket attached to the driver's side engine mount and over the scissor jack. I then used the scissor jack to hoist the driver's side of the engine high enough (4 inches or so) to be able to remove the water pump. Definitely a PITA but doable.
This video saved me big time.
Nathan Partridge Glad to hear that!! Did every thing go smooth?
@@HowtoAutomotive I was prepared for the job watching a lot of videos...but your solution for raising the engine was what got me over the hump!
Nathan Partridge Glad it hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching !
I was watched your videos and did the job myself. Thanks a lot my friend you helped me saved tons of money. Now I can spend it on stuffs for my oncoming baby. Thanks a lot and more power to you Brian
Lavender 1277 glad the video help and you can save some money. Congratulations on your new baby!!
I can't believe they designed it so you can't remove the water pump without these kind of gymnastics! I have a bad thermostat that I was going to replace and was thinking I might as well do water pump hoses and belt. But now, as a novice DIYer I am a bit intimidated with the whole engine lifting exercise. I may just stick with the thermostat.
First, thank you a thousand times for this video! My wife's 03 Z4 busted a belt, which in turn cut the upper rad hose. Long story short, I decided to change the thermostat, water pump, and idler pullys, in addition to the belts, as long as I was in there. As you probably guessed, I got stuck at the part of the job where I went to pull out the water pump.
MEMO TO BMW ENGINEERS: You're idiots! It would have been so easy to design that cross member such that it would still allow the water pump to be extracted without the need to unbolt an engine mount! That's just poor design - period! Of course the BMW dealers love it because they can charge ridiculous rates to people not bold enough to undertake the task.
Did the job and your video was very usefull, thanks a lot for your tips.
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
I tried slackening the 2x18mm bolts off and it did nothing. I found an easier way, I just slackened of the 17mm mounting strut nut being careful not to completely remove it from inside the engine bay and jacked over. It was tight but it went, thanks for the vid.
Ok the water pump on the 2006 to 2008 are electric, and the procedure is totally different
Only if it is the 3.0si model with the N series motor.
Will not be easier to remove the radiiator to have way more space ?
Very clear instructions. thanks
Thank you , working on one right now
Great video, very informative.
aj guardino thank you glad the video is helpful. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting this!
pgreenx thank you for watching!
Regarding the motor mount, you state "we have to loosen two nuts that are holding it down. Where is second nut to loosen that you didn't show? I tried removing the bottom nut shown and then jacking, but the engine didn't separate from the mount.
..i was able to do all of that work from up top.
getting those bolts off doesnt require you to be under the car, nor to remove the bracket.
a short socket 13 worked just fine for me
Keith Weller cool thank you for the tips👍🏻 and thank you for watching!
definitely! i forgot to thank you for the vid! it was helpful either way :)
Maybe helps catch coolant without it going everywhere on under tray. Although jacking up with wood on ali sump still would worry me.
Thank you
Thank you for watching!
Awesome
I handstart and backspin all my bolts takes a second and prevents crossthreading with the ratchet.
Great video, simple no nonsense explanation...thank you
Good video
Great video
Thank you!
I believe later Z4 with N52 engine uses electric water pump.
Great video but what year and engine is this?
Did he say remove two nuts?
How long was the job to replace both?
Great video. All went well until the water pump removal. I failed after one of the two "extracting" bolts needed to remove the water pump sheared off. I tried to remove the 'sheared off bolt' but no joy. Can anyone tell me if the hole behind where you screw the two removable bolts into the water pump is threaded or have I now permanently attached the water pump. Spent all day trying to remove the bolt, luckily no coolant came out so I put everything back to how it was, now with an extra "stud"!!!
Trying to work out what to do next.
What did you end up doing?
Just FYI this isn't accurate. This is only relevant to 03-05 Z4s with the M54. Facelift Z4s are a whole other animal when it comes to water pump changes.
I have an 06. Do i have an electric water pump or mechanical?
@@Shinobi117 electric 😉
While you're under there, why not replace the hoses and belt? And a couple of those pulleys are plastic, no? Or a fiber material that likes to break. This is also true of the hose connections. (If I remember correctly)
Leon Allan Davis you're right it's is common for the other parts to fail. But the customer is on a budget.
I sure don't want to tell you how to run your show but if the water pump and thermostat are being replaced refuse to do that without doing the hoses and belts. Package deal. If the engine overheats the heads will warp and that will be the name of that tune. If the customer pitches a fit, sell the belts and hoses at cost. Give him a loyal customer discount. Otherwise, send him down the road to your hack competition. Just my opinion but it's a hell of a marketing strategy. Shows you care.
Leon Allan Davis I fully agree with you but I'm not the man in charge of the shop. We do make the customer signing for disclosure stating that the other parts were needed.
Oops! I thought it was your shop. Sorry 'bout that. I'm a yuge fan of "Peace of Mind" package deals. Preventative maintenance. Don't wait until it wears out or breaks to replace it. My best...
Leon Allan Davis I believe in that philosophy to. Thank you for watching!
Couldn't you have removed the radiator and radiator fan to give you more space in front of the motor?
Augie Inciong The crossmember would still be in the way.
True. I just did my tensioner. It helped to remove the electric fan to have some frontal access to the tensioner bolts through the crossmember. Thanks for the video.
It’s funny the engine compartment is so large but there’s not enough space for repairs 🙄
Rotor Blade They make everything on the engine tight and compact because it goes into smaller vehicles.
I clicked the link and amazon says it wont fit mine. Its 04 2.5
mike stu there may be some difference between year to year. I would try looking up the exact part on Amazon to see if they have it for your year make and model.
@@HowtoAutomotive thx! Purchased the car less than a month ago trying to make it road worthy. It has 53k on the clock but it seems like it was a rough 53
Welp. Don’t start this unless you’re absolutely sure you can get your water pump out!!!!!!! I cannot for the life of me get my water pump out (2003 BMW Z4 m54b30 3.0 automatic) lift the engine and still doesn’t clear :(
Hay, the 2006 to 2008 BMW Z4 has electric coolant pump. I don't know what car you have in the video, but its not a Z4.
This video is relevant only for 03-05
What do you mean it’s not a z4 ???
4:00, 5:10
Clicked thr thermostat link too and it says the same thing... ? What gives?
There's no such thing as a e55 torque
Pull the fan and shroud and you dont need to do 90% of these steps.
at least have the decency to retitle this video it is not for 2006 or later
richard pohl make your own video and you can title it whatever you want.
@@HowtoAutomotive it is not for 2006 up z4 so why not correct the name it is wrong or do you like to look stupid
@@HowtoAutomotive ups