Nice!!! 2 amp motor with a lithium battery would go nicely.. with the thermistor installed that for sure would melt the plastic case of the motor…. Great find !!!
The results of the upgrade are insane! And we're talking about an M motor. Imagine a buggy motor "engine swap" and then throwing it into a lightweight RC chassis
Very cool! Is it correct that these motors only support running at up to 3V? That's what the item I'm seeing on Amazon says. That would seem to limit power gains compared to Lego motors running at 9-12V. Do you have any idea how this would compare with the customized motors used in the monster trucks on the channel A-zee?
Am I see you hammering a brass pinion out using needle nose pliers ? Do you have a pinion extractor? It’s the most sano way to remove a pinion. You can also make your own using a U shaped aluminum or other metal profile, cut a V groove on one side and a threaded hole and push screw/ bolt on the opposite side. Regarding the heat, it has to go somewhere. A small cutout on the lego gearbox casing would allow installation of a small aluminum heat sink. Or even rectangular slots to allow ambient air to cool the casing better. I found that overheating can be reduced if the motor is operating within its healthy operating load. Find the stall current ( max consumption when motor is physically blocked ) then measure the current draw when motor is running the lego vehicle with no load ( wheels in the air ) and then Measure again when the vehicle is running a medium and full speed. The proper gearing can ensure that the motor is not operating too close into its red zone for normal operation. therefore not creating as much heat. Sometimes the motor has documentation, specs , where its ideal load and rpm range is for maximum efficiency. I tend to go by feel, sound and “ feel “. Not very scientific but after building mucho miniature gear reductions it does develop some kind of intuition. I also experimented with nerf motors, in similar 130 size. There are some crazy high power ones at very affordable prices. The rear casing does not have plastic cap but tends to be all metal and it requires a bit of surgery to install inside a lego or other gearbox. One last thing to worry about, the tamiya motors could be polarized, meant to spin one way. Depending on the carbon brushes installed and inner construction I found out sometimes the motor tends to favor one direction of rotation more than the other. A few hundred rpm difference . It is best for longevity to configure the transmission with the motor running in its optimal rotation. Thanks for the great video, I did not know about those ultra dash motors from Tamiya, will have to try these out. cheers!
Already tried that too. But in the end brushless motors got so much more power and they much longer. Brushed motors are just a bad choice to drive fast. Thx anyway for a good video again
@@MaxBrix there are a lot motors that fit. I am working on some 3d printed stuff for cars. Already got ball beared wheelhubs and at the moment I am working on a differential
Thanks for sharing, I am interested in knowing how do you mesure torque for a range of voltages and current, ... to apply it to geekservo dc and servo motors, plus banbao, mio ... used on arduino/microbit kits combined with compatible lego plastic structures.
To calculate torque. Measure the force produced. Multiply the weight in grams by .0098 to convert to newtons. Find the length of the lever arm and multiply by the newton force. This give the torque in Newton centimeters.
Wow, nice. I search for those in the past and didnt find somthing that fits to the buggy motor size. The one that i burn. (: I never thought of medium. 2A is not that high, is it including picks of current? I wonder how is that motor, compare to the buggy motor. Thanks for sharing ❤️
@@MaxBrix i think so too. But 2A is around the same continues current with buggy motor, so i think it should be all right 👍🙏 i dont think you end up with melting like some said here.
@@MaxBrix I recently discovered that S. M. C. Motor type 260 (dimensions: 24x27x18,2 mm) fit smooth like a butter in buggy motor case, so anything close to this size is fine. Standard DC motor type 130 will be too small, but the bigger version might work out(see dimensions I mentioned). Although I find the correct size, I cannot measure or check which would be the best to UPGRADE buggy motor - maybe a good opportunity to find out in a next video? :D
Very cool! Is it correct that these motors only support running at up to 3V? That's what the item I'm seeing on Amazon says. That would seem to limit power gains compared to Lego motors running at 9-12V. Do you have any idea how this would compare with the customized motors used in the monster trucks on the channel A-zee?
I have seen them run at 9 volts in mini 4wd. I have run mine at 8 volts on a 2 cell lipo. I will be putting 12 volts through it. I will try to let you know when it burns.
Ok, cool! Yeah, he never gave much detail on his motors, but I think it's a similar idea. I think he mentioned on Eurobricks that he used high powered dart gun upgrade motors
I've been hoping to see someone do this for a while. Thanks for sharing. I'm excited to try this for myself at some point.
Nice!!! 2 amp motor with a lithium battery would go nicely.. with the thermistor installed that for sure would melt the plastic case of the motor…. Great find !!!
The results of the upgrade are insane! And we're talking about an M motor. Imagine a buggy motor "engine swap" and then throwing it into a lightweight RC chassis
Yes!
@@MaxBrixi have a tamiya and it has a fast motor and ivw been needing a tutorial on how to replace the lego motor thanks
nice research. I think though, it just makes me want to stay with 100% RC gear.
Great to see you posting again, hope all's well? 👍🍺🇬🇧
It's good to be back.
Good work !
Very cool! Is it correct that these motors only support running at up to 3V? That's what the item I'm seeing on Amazon says. That would seem to limit power gains compared to Lego motors running at 9-12V.
Do you have any idea how this would compare with the customized motors used in the monster trucks on the channel A-zee?
@@2godbdglorylegotechnicvide966 I am afraid I can't reply.
Yeah, I didn't mean to reply in your comment... I'll try again
Am I see you hammering a brass pinion out using needle nose pliers ? Do you have a pinion extractor? It’s the most sano way to remove a pinion. You can also make your own using a U shaped aluminum or other metal profile, cut a V groove on one side and a threaded hole and push screw/ bolt on the opposite side. Regarding the heat, it has to go somewhere. A small cutout on the lego gearbox casing would allow installation of a small aluminum heat sink. Or even rectangular slots to allow ambient air to cool the casing better.
I found that overheating can be reduced if the motor is operating within its healthy operating load. Find the stall current ( max consumption when motor is physically blocked ) then measure the current draw when motor is running the lego vehicle with no load ( wheels in the air ) and then Measure again when the vehicle is running a medium and full speed. The proper gearing can ensure that the motor is not operating too close into its red zone for normal operation. therefore not creating as much heat. Sometimes the motor has documentation, specs , where its ideal load and rpm range is for maximum efficiency. I tend to go by feel, sound and “ feel “. Not very scientific but after building mucho miniature gear reductions it does develop some kind of intuition.
I also experimented with nerf motors, in similar 130 size. There are some crazy high power ones at very affordable prices. The rear casing does not have plastic cap but tends to be all metal and it requires a bit of surgery to install inside a lego or other gearbox.
One last thing to worry about, the tamiya motors could be polarized, meant to spin one way. Depending on the carbon brushes installed and inner construction I found out sometimes the motor tends to favor one direction of rotation more than the other. A few hundred rpm difference . It is best for longevity to configure the transmission with the motor running in its optimal rotation.
Thanks for the great video, I did not know about those ultra dash motors from Tamiya, will have to try these out. cheers!
I don't call them pliers. I call them hammers.
So fast Tamiya motor..
You just know you NEED the Hobbywing MAX10 4kv motor! I have one. It's not sensible, although compared to some ot probably is!
That is larger than any hobby motor I have used. I just graduated from salvaging motors from broken electronics to buying cheap stuff. Baby steps.
Already tried that too. But in the end brushless motors got so much more power and they much longer. Brushed motors are just a bad choice to drive fast.
Thx anyway for a good video again
I love brushless. I think I found one I can fit in a Lego motor case!
@@MaxBrix there are a lot motors that fit. I am working on some 3d printed stuff for cars. Already got ball beared wheelhubs and at the moment I am working on a differential
Thanks for sharing, I am interested in knowing how do you mesure torque for a range of voltages and current, ... to apply it to geekservo dc and servo motors, plus banbao, mio ... used on arduino/microbit kits combined with compatible lego plastic structures.
To calculate torque. Measure the force produced. Multiply the weight in grams by .0098 to convert to newtons. Find the length of the lever arm and multiply by the newton force. This give the torque in Newton centimeters.
@@MaxBrix thanks a lot
Wow, nice. I search for those in the past and didnt find somthing that fits to the buggy motor size. The one that i burn. (:
I never thought of medium. 2A is not that high, is it including picks of current?
I wonder how is that motor, compare to the buggy motor.
Thanks for sharing ❤️
Same thing, I burned mine as well ;) Would be cool to see Tamiya motor that could easily fit in buggy motor and gain even more power or torque :D
Mabuchi makes the motors for tamiya. They might have a motor that fits and has better performance than stock. I might check that out.
I think the manufacturer current rating is continuous not peak.
@@MaxBrix i think so too. But 2A is around the same continues current with buggy motor, so i think it should be all right 👍🙏 i dont think you end up with melting like some said here.
@@MaxBrix I recently discovered that S. M. C. Motor type 260 (dimensions: 24x27x18,2 mm) fit smooth like a butter in buggy motor case, so anything close to this size is fine. Standard DC motor type 130 will be too small, but the bigger version might work out(see dimensions I mentioned). Although I find the correct size, I cannot measure or check which would be the best to UPGRADE buggy motor - maybe a good opportunity to find out in a next video? :D
Makes more sense to just use a complete standard rc setup with proper motor brushed or brushless and use esc servos etc
Like my brushless Lego m-motor and brushless XL-motor with Geek Servo.
@@MaxBrix link
Is this the same motor for the L motor?
No, it's different. You should look at my brushless motor conversions. They have massive power.
Try the Hyper one
Very cool! Is it correct that these motors only support running at up to 3V? That's what the item I'm seeing on Amazon says. That would seem to limit power gains compared to Lego motors running at 9-12V.
Do you have any idea how this would compare with the customized motors used in the monster trucks on the channel A-zee?
I have seen them run at 9 volts in mini 4wd. I have run mine at 8 volts on a 2 cell lipo. I will be putting 12 volts through it. I will try to let you know when it burns.
I am not finding A-zee's motors.
Ok, cool! Yeah, he never gave much detail on his motors, but I think it's a similar idea. I think he mentioned on Eurobricks that he used high powered dart gun upgrade motors
Tamiya = “Ta-me-ya” 🙂
I was afraid of that.
so
when deans motor
hello, which motor would you recommend to fit the baggy engine
I haven't been able to modify the buggy motor. It is not as tough as the XL and I think higher power would probably break it.
@@MaxBrix
in general, what could be suitable so that the buggy motor does not break down
Makes me wonder if it's a good idea to do something like this to an Ali Express L motor and torque the shit out of my train
There is always rocket motors!