no weight, no interest. what is the problem with this "no weight information thing" its called ultra light? wtf, is this a joke? . i want to know the weight and no: its kinda like depending on ya config, bro.
Dang. Wish I would have know. Just got done with ul7 build. Would love to see a way to attach a cine cam to the bigger 8 and 10 inch frames since you will be able to run it as a x8. Or maybe we can get a cinelifer version. That would be killer, and I would get one asap. Thanks for your hard work, and keep innovation going.
What would you say the flight efficiency is between the 7" and 10" with your suggested motor choice and similar pitched props? Is distance and flight time increased going up to the 10" or is it the 10" more suited for carrying heavier cameras/Gear?
From my experience the 10inch doesn't have a longer flight time than a 7 inch. In fact the flight time with the same battery is less. But of course you can carry a larger battery and extend the flight time. So all in all 10 inch can just carry more weight, but flight time is pretty much the same with a 50% higher all up weight. For me I was disappointed from the 10 inch and prefer my 7 and 8 inch build.
@@chrisbee5481 imma about to find (finding out)...built the UL7 last year, LOVE IT, very light, trustworthy and efficient. Got impatient waiting on his UL10, and all the Helion videos didnt help haha, so i bought the Pulsar 10 from geprc. Very heavy, large foot print, still working out the kinks but so far havent been getting decent flight time... and about 2kg with a small battery =/ time will tell!
Man Chris I don't feel the same way about my medium length sma antenna as you have described here and in the past, I will go as far as a long antenna could cause adverse affects due to the fact that it is weight that is extended from the body of the quad, but where I'm having problems is the fact that the TPU is mounted to standoffs that don't have allowance for movement, that would reduce the effect of the antenna movement. The antenna is not designed to be a spring my true rc antenna is very stiff in fact.
I'm going to reprint my antenna mounts on my Demibot in PLA and see if the is a difference in my blackbox. The fact that the antenna being hard mounted on the plate vs soft on the standoffs I believe is negligible.
I'd expect to run a 6S 10,000 mah Li-ion pack with the 10" Hey Chris the footage without the ausio was really nice at the beggining, reminds me when flying LR when you can no longer hear the quad, very zen moment!😃
I fly my AOS7UL with 21700 6S2P Molicel, 8000mAh. Total flight time is between 20 and 25 minutes and total range up to 25km depending on height. I only used thin nickel strips on the selfmade packs I might go to copper over the winter to get even more efficiency. Total weight is about 1650g with GoPro12.
Why is the motor size leap from 8 inch to 10 inch props so high? You say 2808 for 8 inch props and at least 3215 for 10 inch props. The disc area is 56 percent larger but the motor is 145 percent larger. From my personal building experience : 2806.5-2808 for 7" 2810, 2812 or 3110 for 8" 3115 and above for 10"
I just build your regular AOS 7 Mantis frame. It flies and looks amazing with your filters and tune. I think its even an older version of the frame now because you just continue pushing out great frames all the time! If i had all the money i would buy the UL7 8 and 10 and build some cinematic long range drones. Keep it going!
All nice, but... I'd imagine these double, vertical arms may be pretty draggy. Flying LR, often in pretty high winds, aero efficiency is more important than in freestyle or even racing (nothing worse than watching the battery voltage going into the red zone on your way back home, while fighting headwinds...). Also, in the name of efficiency, why not make it a pusher, with arms mounted to the upper deck?
I have a Chimera7 for long range and I use 18650 3000 mah Li-Ion batteries 6s3p ( 9000 mah ) and it gives me around 30Km total trip flight. I have also experimented with two of them in parallel and I got 40+ Km trip distance (20Km from home). But it was to heavy for that build . That would fit perfectly to your 10'' and it would cover much more distance.
6S2P with the new P50Bs would be quite the pack. 10,000mah for about the same weight as a 6,000mah LiPo. Rated to I think 120A? Downside is it’ll fly like a 4S pack on the way home so better have enough thrust/KV. Could even consider a 4S build to save 300g of Li-Ion battery weight.
lithium ion can cells have like 2x the energy density of poly packs lol. 2P 2170's would probably handle the current just fine. make sure to use chunky Ni strips!
I just bought the AOS 7in V5. Sadly the spacing of 60.5mm between the two frame - mounted video antennas is ~1mm shy of the width of 3x 21700 cells So my Lithium Ion packs won't lay between them. I'll probably run a 2P configuration with two separate packs arranged fore and aft of the antennas most of the time, but if I want to run a 6S1P pack I have to mount it on edge. Also, in the 2P configuration the forward battery only gets one strap. I guess I could enlarge the antenna mounting holes to move the antennas further apart, but that might weaken the top plate. Kind of disappointing. What is the space between the antenna mounts on this UL7 frame?
Nice design, it makes me want to chase races ! The cut outs (X-Cell) around the flight controller look very similar to the ones for 5''. does that mean the vibration attenuation performance of these cut outs do not depend on the size of the quad ? Another Question is why so much carbon area is needed on the top plate ? Are there quads meant to lift sizeable cameras ? Or is the lipo disproportionately big for this class of quads ?
I have AOS UL7 and can say that beams connection in the motor end is unfortunate: the motor bracket start rotating by some degree in motor spinning area. I fixed this by filling joints with two component compound. Probably AOS 7 EVO would be better frame.
Given all the FAA laws around VLOS.. and these are super long range.. do you have to have multiple people along the flight path to fly them legally? Or are you able to get waivers to fly BVLOS?
Those frames are not designed for crashing. If you crash frequently while cruising don't get it. When you crash doing long range it doesn't matter anyway if your frame breaks or not it's usually gone for good.
@@snviper the problem is that Chris is not any kind of reputable pilot. He designs as an engineer, and almost always an engineer over complicates functionality because it looks good on paper and rarely translates to any practical benefit. His frames are a prime example of this sentiment, and his testing of products is so extremely skewed by bias, that I personally don’t believe that this guy is trustworthy in any capacity.
While mounting the antenna in the middle of the frame gets rid of gyro noise from the antenna, you end up blocking your antenna with the rest of the body when the quad is in forward flight, pointing away from your position. That's why we place the antenna on the rear with a rearward tilt that matches the camera angle. That way, when in forward flight, your antenna is pointed straight up and effectively positioned at the highest point in the frame, clear of any obstruction. So I don't agree that the rear is the 'worst possible option' at all. Thankfully, the SMA ports can be unscrewed and re positioned where they should be, as signal integrity matters /much/ more than frame resonance in long range flight.
Question: in your design, both antennas are placed in a close proximity to the battery, doesn't it make any influence on characteristics of antennas? In our tests, we observed that SWR curve was changing as you bring antenna closer to the battery.
Looks great. Perhaps I missed it in the video, but any specs for approximate frame weights? Don't see these values on the website either.
Video looks like it,s bit shaky and stuttering a bit?
no weight, no interest. what is the problem with this "no weight information thing" its called ultra light? wtf, is this a joke? . i want to know the weight and no: its kinda like depending on ya config, bro.
Dang. Wish I would have know. Just got done with ul7 build. Would love to see a way to attach a cine cam to the bigger 8 and 10 inch frames since you will be able to run it as a x8. Or maybe we can get a cinelifer version. That would be killer, and I would get one asap. Thanks for your hard work, and keep innovation going.
Will there be some BNF Versions in the near future ?
What would you say the flight efficiency is between the 7" and 10" with your suggested motor choice and similar pitched props? Is distance and flight time increased going up to the 10" or is it the 10" more suited for carrying heavier cameras/Gear?
From my experience the 10inch doesn't have a longer flight time than a 7 inch. In fact the flight time with the same battery is less. But of course you can carry a larger battery and extend the flight time. So all in all 10 inch can just carry more weight, but flight time is pretty much the same with a 50% higher all up weight. For me I was disappointed from the 10 inch and prefer my 7 and 8 inch build.
@@chrisbee5481 imma about to find (finding out)...built the UL7 last year, LOVE IT, very light, trustworthy and efficient. Got impatient waiting on his UL10, and all the Helion videos didnt help haha, so i bought the Pulsar 10 from geprc. Very heavy, large foot print, still working out the kinks but so far havent been getting decent flight time... and about 2kg with a small battery =/ time will tell!
Man Chris I don't feel the same way about my medium length sma antenna as you have described here and in the past, I will go as far as a long antenna could cause adverse affects due to the fact that it is weight that is extended from the body of the quad, but where I'm having problems is the fact that the TPU is mounted to standoffs that don't have allowance for movement, that would reduce the effect of the antenna movement. The antenna is not designed to be a spring my true rc antenna is very stiff in fact.
I'm going to reprint my antenna mounts on my Demibot in PLA and see if the is a difference in my blackbox. The fact that the antenna being hard mounted on the plate vs soft on the standoffs I believe is negligible.
Awesome updates, Chris! AOS frames are still the GOAT!
Weights? Your website doesnt list the weights. At least a rough estimate would be nice.
Hey, Chris! You can up-scale video to 2,5K60 or 4K30 to trick RUclips to use more efficient vp09 codec.
Great news Chris, AddictiveRC just got a huge AOS motor delivery.
Thanks for bringing us a different choice for this hobby we like.
any plans to create a 6-in or 5-in in the same frame structure with vertical arms?
I'd expect to run a 6S 10,000 mah Li-ion pack with the 10"
Hey Chris the footage without the ausio was really nice at the beggining, reminds me when flying LR when you can no longer hear the quad, very zen moment!😃
Really fantastic designs, Chris! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I fly my AOS7UL with 21700 6S2P Molicel, 8000mAh. Total flight time is between 20 and 25 minutes and total range up to 25km depending on height.
I only used thin nickel strips on the selfmade packs I might go to copper over the winter to get even more efficiency.
Total weight is about 1650g with GoPro12.
Why is the motor size leap from 8 inch to 10 inch props so high?
You say 2808 for 8 inch props and at least 3215 for 10 inch props. The disc area is 56 percent larger but the motor is 145 percent larger.
From my personal building experience :
2806.5-2808 for 7"
2810, 2812 or 3110 for 8"
3115 and above for 10"
Prop weight doubles from 8 to 10
My new 9" longrange/cinelifter build run's on 8S2P 8000mAh and 6S 6000mAH, flight performance is great :D X4 3214 an 9"4.5 props, 4in1ESC 65A/100A
@tiefflieger9712 not true.
A light 8" prop gemfan 8040 is 11g.
A light 10" prop gemfan 1050 is 17g.
That's 54% more weight not double
I just build your regular AOS 7 Mantis frame. It flies and looks amazing with your filters and tune. I think its even an older version of the frame now because you just continue pushing out great frames all the time! If i had all the money i would buy the UL7 8 and 10 and build some cinematic long range drones. Keep it going!
All nice, but... I'd imagine these double, vertical arms may be pretty draggy. Flying LR, often in pretty high winds, aero efficiency is more important than in freestyle or even racing (nothing worse than watching the battery voltage going into the red zone on your way back home, while fighting headwinds...).
Also, in the name of efficiency, why not make it a pusher, with arms mounted to the upper deck?
I have a Chimera7 for long range and I use 18650 3000 mah Li-Ion batteries 6s3p ( 9000 mah ) and it gives me around 30Km total trip flight. I have also experimented with two of them in parallel and I got 40+ Km trip distance (20Km from home). But it was to heavy for that build . That would fit perfectly to your 10'' and it would cover much more distance.
6S2P with the new P50Bs would be quite the pack. 10,000mah for about the same weight as a 6,000mah LiPo. Rated to I think 120A? Downside is it’ll fly like a 4S pack on the way home so better have enough thrust/KV. Could even consider a 4S build to save 300g of Li-Ion battery weight.
lithium ion can cells have like 2x the energy density of poly packs lol. 2P 2170's would probably handle the current just fine. make sure to use chunky Ni strips!
I’d love to see some competition to the Flywoo Explorer LR 4
I just bought the AOS 7in V5. Sadly the spacing of 60.5mm between the two frame - mounted video antennas is ~1mm shy of the width of 3x 21700 cells So my Lithium Ion packs won't lay between them. I'll probably run a 2P configuration with two separate packs arranged fore and aft of the antennas most of the time, but if I want to run a 6S1P pack I have to mount it on edge. Also, in the 2P configuration the forward battery only gets one strap. I guess I could enlarge the antenna mounting holes to move the antennas further apart, but that might weaken the top plate. Kind of disappointing. What is the space between the antenna mounts on this UL7 frame?
Nice design, it makes me want to chase races !
The cut outs (X-Cell) around the flight controller look very similar to the ones for 5''. does that mean the vibration attenuation performance of these cut outs do not depend on the size of the quad ?
Another Question is why so much carbon area is needed on the top plate ? Are there quads meant to lift sizeable cameras ? Or is the lipo disproportionately big for this class of quads ?
I have AOS UL7 and can say that beams connection in the motor end is unfortunate: the motor bracket start rotating by some degree in motor spinning area. I fixed this by filling joints with two component compound. Probably AOS 7 EVO would be better frame.
Chris will iFlight be making these frame kits too?
nice work, quick question can you provide a tune for the AOS 10? thats the one I will be building
hold on a minute... don't the arms support the body and not the motors when in flight.
10" should be oriented into 8S-12S....
You dont recommend crossfire for long range in your website?
These are cool and all, but any plans on a 3.5-4" LR that can be sub250g?
Very nice. Next we need an AOS tiny whoop !
What make VTX antennas are those on the UL7?
nice job chris
Any plans to stock these in the UK?
Nice update Chris.
Given all the FAA laws around VLOS.. and these are super long range.. do you have to have multiple people along the flight path to fly them legally? Or are you able to get waivers to fly BVLOS?
I think "legal" is a loose term when flying long range 😏
And… break an overcomplicated frame on the first crash
Those frames are not designed for crashing. If you crash frequently while cruising don't get it.
When you crash doing long range it doesn't matter anyway if your frame breaks or not it's usually gone for good.
@@snviper the problem is that Chris is not any kind of reputable pilot. He designs as an engineer, and almost always an engineer over complicates functionality because it looks good on paper and rarely translates to any practical benefit. His frames are a prime example of this sentiment, and his testing of products is so extremely skewed by bias, that I personally don’t believe that this guy is trustworthy in any capacity.
While mounting the antenna in the middle of the frame gets rid of gyro noise from the antenna, you end up blocking your antenna with the rest of the body when the quad is in forward flight, pointing away from your position. That's why we place the antenna on the rear with a rearward tilt that matches the camera angle. That way, when in forward flight, your antenna is pointed straight up and effectively positioned at the highest point in the frame, clear of any obstruction. So I don't agree that the rear is the 'worst possible option' at all. Thankfully, the SMA ports can be unscrewed and re positioned where they should be, as signal integrity matters /much/ more than frame resonance in long range flight.
Agreed. I mounted my antenna in the back on my UL7 for that reason. When it was in the middle I had total signal loss sometimes on hdzero.
@@snviper Thats why design and simulation alone can't make a good product. You have to actually test it in the real world.
Got the mountian drive tee, and it's cool :)
Also don't judge my mark4 clone with 7in arms with stock beta flight
Question: in your design, both antennas are placed in a close proximity to the battery, doesn't it make any influence on characteristics of antennas? In our tests, we observed that SWR curve was changing as you bring antenna closer to the battery.
Thanks 👐 this will probably be my first non DJI drone .
Is there room in the body for single ESCs?
3
Really stoked to see the continued rolling thunder of innovation from AOS!
What's the innovation ? I would say it's upselling...
Pretty cool, but not for me.