Episode 6 - Driver's door latch remove and replace for 2016 Ford Transit Connect
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Welcome! In this video I remove and replace the front driver's door latch assembly in order to fix a radio shut off switch issue. This was one of the most challenging repairs I've done in the last few years.
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This is the only video on RUclips that shows you how to remove the door panels on the Transit Connect.
Woah. Really? I would have thought someone else would have done it, maybe a company or something.
I just finished about 6 total hours on this one. My door on my 2014 would not latch shut. The T15 screws that attach the latch assembly to the window guide rail were the worst. I had to get a tiny 1/4" ratchet (Klein tools 65200) just to get the torx bit in there. I had a T15 screwdriver and put that through the latch cutout to get the top screw. Definitely would not have been able to do this without this video. Thank you so much!!!
I'm glad I was able to help. Swapping the latch assembly was probably one of the most challenging repairs I've done so I'm glad it helped you get it done by yourself. The stealership would have charged way too much to do it.
Just done this on my connect due to sensor failing at times. Easiest way to remove is to remove the external door handle mechanism and the T20 screw. Along with the ones down side of door. Whole thing comes out and you can easily rebuild the new one from there.
I'll keep this in mind when the passenger sensor eventually fails.. or the driver sensor fails again.
I left the window track assembly attached on reassembly. Hemostats ( roach clips) helped tremendously on the inner cable and rod when putting back together. Thank you for your video it helped a lot.
You are most welcome. With the number of views this video has, I wonder if there are that many TC owners out there or if this is a more general modern Ford thing?
@@MazdaB3Kmine started acting up after Ford fixed the latch recall. Go figure.
@@joshuavandal7526 There was a recall for this? Never got the memo for the Transit Connect. I'm guessing for the F series trucks?
@@MazdaB3K mine is a 2016 Transit Connect xlt cargo. Early this year or late last year I believe I got the recall notice. Took it in, even though I didn't feel or see any issues. Right around then it started cubing trouble with sensor like you explained- door open radio keeps going. I would either have to shut door hard or wiggle it after clicking latch without completely latching it.
This is my problem too this video was really useful for me thank you so much
Glad I was able to help. If you try to do the repair, understand it's going to take the better part of a day to do. And lots of patience....
Thanks for the video. Helpful.
As an friendly FYI, it's never left or right when relating to cars. I understood you (and what you didn't say) because I'm a mechanic, but if someone was using your video to remove the passenger side front door panel, it's better to say driver side, passenger side, torward the front of the car or toward the rear of the car to make sure they didn't use "left" on that side. They would break the part. On the passenger side it is on the right, or again towards the rear of the car.
👍
Very good observation. I'll work on that as I continue to make videos. Thanks for commenting!
@@MazdaB3K no problem.
Been building cars, and teaching people to build cars, for about 50 years now. It's these new-fangled cars I find RUclips helpful to show where all the hidden bits are.
If only I had RUclips 40 years ago, and used it like you do, think how many subscribers I'd have by now! Tens of tens!
@@whoaaanelly65 It's definitely slow going at first. My channel has been active 1 year and 1 day. But like most things, you take a little bit at a time and eventually you wind up with something.
@@MazdaB3K There is nothing wrong with right and left. Also, this is a worldwide vehicle and there are plenty out there with right hand drive. So "driver" and "passenger" are always relative terms. But when possible, use front and rear when facing sideways. So everything has the same point of reference.
I found it easier to remove all the white clips and put them in the panel before reinstalling
I just took mine to a Northern Michigan Ford dealer on February 8th 2023 to have the driver's door latch replaced. Parts and labor was $213. I got there at 9 and my van was done at 10:15.
It would have taken me that long to figure out how to get the door panel off.
Sounds like you have an exceptional Ford dealer, I'm glad to hear it. My local one is.... not so great.
@@MazdaB3K been working on cars since 1980. And as much as I like to do it, I know when to call it good and let the professionals take over.
I pretty much watched your video three times and that's what convinced me to call my dealer and ask him what it would cost to replace the driver's door latch. 👍
What I also know now is that I could have removed the external door handle and a few other things that would have made this job much easier. I'm about to do this x4 for my F250 and it's not a bad job if you remove all the pieces needed. That being said if my local stealership was decent I would probably send them some work from time to time. I still have two active recalls against the van in the video due to how lousy they are in communicating and getting recall work done.
Very helpful video.
Thanks!
I wonder if it’s something small, just a worn or misaligned spring causing the issue. I’m having same issues, a little nudge on the latch tricks it into turning off radio.
For quite a while I was able to press down on a small switch located inside the latch and that would trigger the cutoff. I think there is a switch in the latch that is supposed to cut the radio off when it no longer has contact with the latch, like a break in a circuit. I didn't take the time to pull the assembly apart though to identify the actual failure.
I have a problem where the radio and Bluetooth does not turn off when I turn off the truck I open the door then 2 hours later I come back to the car and Bluetooth and radio is still on
Only way to turn everything off is if I open the passenger door after turning off the truck.
Any thougts on this issue?
2018 Ford transit connect
I replied to your other comment about this. The door lock module cutoff switch is going bad. I replaced this module in my wife's 2016 and it was not fun at all. I made a video but I don't have much footage of the actual work because I couldn't really get a camera inside the door.
Video: ruclips.net/video/YIZWLtTmrkA/видео.htmlsi=8mIM_LdEKBIKqErp
@@MazdaB3K OK great thanks so you had the same issue? Do you have a link or part number and where did you buy the part from?
I generally have good luck buying from Tasca Ford or from Quirkparts. I don't remember where I picked this one up. For a 2018 the part would be DT1Z-6121813-B. To be specific, that is for the driver's door (left)
@@MazdaB3K btw my window and mirror function works the only thing as mentored that doesn't work is the trucks radio and Bluetooth does not turn off and also the dome light doesn't turn on when I open the drivers side door.
I need to open passenger door to turn off radio
Your still think it's the doors actuator?
Yes. The actuator module contains the door latch, door lock, all the connection points for the lock and the infotainment cutoff switch. The part that is going bad is the cutoff switch for the infortainment. The power mirror control and power window control are separate parts.
Trick is to take the window regulator out in full with latch attached
If you remove out side door handle the screws on side that hold the track the whole window truck latch n all will come out one piece Just found this out hard way
Good to know. The window track was an enormous pain in the butt to work around. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Just done it this way too. All working a dream now. Thankfully!!
I'm looking for information on how to remove the rear sliding door panel. Can you help
Unfortunately I've never done that and I don't have this van anymore. Are you trying to take the door proper off or an interior panel?
@@MazdaB3KThank you for your return. I will change speakers
Does this switch also put a message on dash that transmission not in park because it thinks the door is open? Domelight stays on and radio turns off soon as the van is turned off. I think because it thinks the door is open.
There is a sensor that should be in the console shifter assembly that determines what gear the van is in. If the bushing that connects the shifter to the shift linkage is failing, the shifter can be moved into a gear position and that position not be what the transmission prawl moves to. At least for the 2016 Transit Connect, there is an open recall for the shifter bushing for that exact reason. There is also another shifter bushing that connects directly on the to the transmission prawl. If that bushing fails then you won't be able to shift correctly either. It happened before I started this RUclips channel, but I accidentally melted that bushing with carb cleaner fixing an EGR code. I had to engineer a new one as Ford won't sell you the bushing alone.
In short, if you are getting vehicle not in park warnings I would start your troubleshooting with the console shifter, not the door. Check and see if your van is affected by the recall for that shifter bushing.
If you want to see an example of what I'm talking about, check out my video where I replace the floor shifter in a 2010 Fusion I have. The setup is pretty similar.
Link here:ruclips.net/video/4aSSexG-I38/видео.html
@@MazdaB3K when u shift gears the indicator shows the right gear that the van is in a message just shows on display that trans in not in park shift to P… and front dome lights won’t go out but guess what all this happened once I put an alarm and remote start on customers van so I’m just trying to figure the issue out
Hmm... that changes things. I don't have any experience with the installation of aftermarket security systems, but my complete SWAG would be that one of the wires that you tapped to make the system work is now causing a sensor to feed bad data to the ECU. I would seek support from the manufacturer of the system, see what they tell you.
@@MazdaB3K Yeah did that I completely took the system out disconnected everything still no change. Thanks for responding
What was the part #
DT1Z6121813B. Some part houses still have the -A part, which will work as well. So you can search against what I put, or replace the B and the end with an A and that should give good results as well.
This looks like a nightmare. Probably $800 job if done by ford service department?
Unless they have a method that makes this go fast, it would be pricey due to the amount of labor involved. I don't have a Ford field service manual for my wife's van, so I don't know what the "official" repair method it for this.
Yeah this looks out of my range of patience and skill. Such a FORD designed money pit. I’m starting to hate my van.
Mine's been pretty good, at 120k right now. I had to clean the EGR valve to clear an engine code and that results in me melting the transmission shift linkage bushing which made the shifter not work so I had to fix that... my fault though. Changing the battery is a pita, changing the CV axles and front shock/struts wasn't very fun either, but they are normal wear items. I really haven't had much of anything fail that was out of norm. Water pump went at around 20k but fully replaced under warranty so I didn't have to do that one.
Yeah I’m same year 2016.. owned it for a year. At 65k, changed the cv axles few months back and now this alarm going off randomly. I believe it’s the door actuator bc my mechanic friend noticed my clock and dash not powering down after whatever..20 seconds of closing the door. So we wrapped some electrical tape on the bracket on the door jam.. As a temp band aid. This helped! Until recently as my alarm just goes off randomly sometimes. I also get a different amount of chirps off the factory alarm during unlock on the key fob. The dealer here in Maui said there should be no sounds during unlock. I get anywhere from two chirps to four fast trips. When it does the four fast trips is seemingly when my alarm goes off about 10 minutes later. So sometimes I feel like I can’t lock my car up or else the alarm will go off once I walk away after a few minutes. Even though the Band-Aid tape is still working and my clock and dash are powering down, I’m assuming it is a faulty sensor or hast to do it that driver side door actuator. Which doesn’t really make sense because the power is going off.
Yeah I’m same year 2016.. owned it for a year. At 65k, changed the cv axles few months back and now this alarm going off randomly. I believe it’s the door actuator bc my mechanic friend noticed my clock and dash not powering down after whatever..20 seconds of closing the door. So we wrapped some electrical tape on the bracket on the door jam.. As a temp band aid. This helped! Until recently as my alarm just goes off randomly sometimes. I also get a different amount of chirps off the factory alarm during unlock on the key fob. The dealer here in Maui said there should be no sounds during unlock. I get anywhere from two chirps to four fast trips. When it does the four fast trips is seemingly when my alarm goes off about 10 minutes later. So sometimes I feel like I can’t lock my car up or else the alarm will go off once I walk away after a few minutes. Even though the Band-Aid tape is still working and my clock and dash are powering down, I’m assuming it is a faulty sensor or hast to do it that driver side door actuator. Which doesn’t really make sense because the power is going off.