Machine Maintenance Tips for Top Notch Performance
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2017
- Well maintained equipment is fundamental to producing professional work. This video shows some of the routine things I do to keep machines at Next Level Carpentry fit for demanding projects. Spending time doing routine maintenance on shop equipment ensures top-notch performance, long life expectancy and optimal ROI.
This Amazon Influencer's link includes some of the products I use and recommend for cleaning and maintaining cast iron surfaces on shop equipment:
a.co/5VffHXT 
Хобби
Could’ve sworn you did a video replacing the arbor bearings on your t.s. but after going thru your catalog a couple of times I can’t find it. Can you point me in the right direction?
My bandsaw, Jointer are 30+ years old, they are from my first woodworking tools... a ShopSmith and still working hard. To maintain the tops I them I use a 3M sanding block and WD-40 and a coat of furniture wax... I first used WD-40 in the Marines for my Rifles and it has been a mainstay ever since. My shop is in the garage, an unheated garage in New England which means if I don't stay on it... rust will show up. Just watching your videos I pick up small ideas that bloom into really good ideas. Keep it up you do a great job and as I said before "I'm watching a MasterCraftsman at work! ***** Five Stars
Kudos for keeping after those cast iron tops... it takes dedication but definitely has rewards. Thanks for your service as a Marine... sounds like you learned well and take semper fi to heart!
Best, Matt
Thank you so much for taking the time to make all your videos. I have been watching many of your videos and they ALL have been so helpful.
Glad to hear it Brandt... knowing they're helpful is motivation to make more! Best, Matt
great tips for taking care of equipment. thanks Matt
Thanks for responding so quickly. At the moment I'm watching one of your videos on how to make a cylinder using a router. So far everyone of your videos I've watch gave me some insight to better ways of doing things. Thank you so much.
Terry,
Very cool! I gotta get to 'real work' putting up some crown moulding today but it's fun to start the day interacting with engaged viewers! Brainstorming through the process to make those round legs was a good one... hope you enjoy it :-) I made a note to upload pictures of the finished table to Pinterest this evening so you can check it out through the Pinterest link in the NLC Channel banner later if interested.
Best,
Matt
Thanks for the awesome rundown on equipment maintenance. Very timely for me.
You're welcome, Larry... timing is everything! Keep those Sandflex Blocks in mind... sorry it sounds like a sales pitch but they really are key to getting the best results. If I ever need to polish up my pool game I'm going to visit your channel... 128, 134, 124 ball runs? Remarkable! Best, Matt
Great video, Matt! So important to make any equipment you use last by performing routine maintenance. Not many guys/gals show this, glad you do such a great job explaining the steps and more importantly WHY you do what you do! Love your Channel!
Explaining the 'why' is the main reason NLC videos are usually much longer than those produced by other Channels in the same genre, Rich. It's attentive viewers like you who are the main reason NLC is growing despite the fact longer content isn't 'favored' by the RUclips algorithm. Thanks for letting me know you 'love (this) Channel'! Really means a lot to me and lets me know the track I've chosen is the right one... Best, Matt
Thank for being so detail in your videos they are really helpful. So appreciated.
I worry about how long NLC videos end up but don't want to leave out the detail that you find helpful... stay tuned for more! Best, Matt
I'm a firm believer in periodic maintenance on ALL my wood working equipment. This is an excellent video on how to take care of the surfaces especially the cast iron. I live in FL so humidity is always the nemesis. I also have to move my equipment (tablesaw, jointer , planer, etc.) outside the garage to work. Sweat, humidity and also the unexpected rain wrecks havoc on the cast iron. After (actually while) watching your vid I went to Amazon and ordered the SandFlex pads. I know I'll make good use of these. Thank you, Matt, for your great videos! I always find new things I can use from your woodworking wisdom!
RHI Hodag, I feel your pain fighting all that moisture and humidity! I get upset when a bit of rain/mist blows in the shop door during a summer afternoon rain and tarnishes my bandsaw with a few speckles of water... guess it's payback for having to deal with -18 degree winter temps :-)
Might want to check out Greg Bungard's comment below about padded blankets to minimize affect of humidity in Georgia.
Keep up the good maintenance... you're going to love those Sandflex blocks for sure... and don't spare the paste wax!
Best,
Matt
Excellent tips. I'm in north Texas, where humidity is a problem. After cleaning and waxing, I cover the cast iron surfaces with a canvas painting tarp when I'm not using the table saw and jointer...this seems to help quite a bit.
Nothing better than a clean well oiled machine! Great video and thanks!
You're welcome, billeybop! Thanks for commenting too... it always takes me a good half hour to respond to your comments because I start to browse all the great music videos you have on your channel... there's some true classics in your collection. A new favorite is the acoustic version of Breathe by Anna Natlick... very nice!
Thanks and I appreciate your great tips. I love the wealth of information youtube provides to its many subscribers! Happy Thanksgiving :)
I got my cast iron topped table saw about 2 years ago and I haven't taken very good care of it. After watching this video, I resolved to clean it up and never let it get rough again. I couldn't find any Sandflex blocks locally, but I found out they can be ordered online then picked up (at the giant department store based out of Arkansas whose name shall not be spoken) about 2 weeks later with no shipping charge. I didn't want to wait. I had some naval jelly from a previous project, so used that and some #00 steel wool to clean it up, followed by a nice coat of Johnson's paste wax. What a huge difference it makes to have the material glide over the table surface. I will never again let a cast iron table surface get so out of hand. Thank you so much for all your videos, they're great. I have learned so much from you.
Sandflex blocks work so well and last so long that I've never had a problem getting them through Amazon... great value for sure! Even if you don't need them for your tablesaw top now, I find myself using mine for routine cleaning and maintenance for everything from shop equipment to hand tools to door hardware, etc. I think you'd find them well worth the wait... and you can get them through the Amazon link in the video description above of the Arkansas source is an issue😒😁😎 Best, Matt
Thanks for shooting me over here. Very helpful. Especially the Sandflex block.
You're quite welcome Donald... thanks for watching NLC videos! Best, Matt
Also a good tip is run a dehumidifier in a garage with a cement slab. I never get rust, use the johnson wax like you and all my cast surfaces and tools stay in good shape. Worth the electrical cost for the humid months. Thanks to you for your videos and tips, they have helped a lot !!
Thanks for the wax application tip of putting the glob of wax inside the rag Matt. I was my CI tool surfaces a couple times a year using Boston Paste Wax. One thing I experienced when I stripped the old wax off my Unisaw top once was flash rust. Caught me by surprise but was able to remove it without much trouble. The time spent caring for CI surfaces is well worth it. Thanks for another informative video.
You're welcome for the 'wax glob' tip Bob... hard to beat those SandFlex blocks for cleaning rust off cast iron! Best, Matt
Great suggestions
Hi Matt, In Georgia. were I live Harbor Freight sells pleaded thick moving blankets usually dark blue, 5.99 on sale
These are great for your shop machines when not using, in additions to what Matt does in video, this extends the maintenance cycle as well amount of work required periodically to the bed, in addition, to protecting them from humidity and dust. Nothing sweeter than a polished waxed bed.
Thanks for sharing this, Greg... if it helps keep rust from tools in Georgia's humidity it will help woodworker's everywhere! I've pinned your tip/comment for benefit of other viewers.
Best,
Matt
I've been doing this same maintenance on my machines for years, but it also took me years to figure it out. I wish I could've had this video then, it would've saved me some time. Nice job!
21mph12, Thanks! I don't know what I did before finding the Sandflex blocks but it wasn't nearly as good, fast or effective! It's great when you take the time to shine up the equipment once in awhile, isn't it?!
Best,
Matt
Thanks Matt, the wax in the rag is a good idea. I can see my next maintenance on my tools go a little bit easier. Good video.
Gary, glad you like the idea and you're certainly welcome. I 'stole' the idea from olde tyme furniture refinishers who use it for applying various finishes and waxing when done. I use it for waxing parts on jigs and fixtures too because it makes them work much more smoothly. Matt
This is great advice and technique. A link to this video should be included in the instruction manual of all woodworking machinery. My PM 66, 60 and Laguna 18" bandsaw reside in a garage in N. Illinois so humidity is a big problem. Paste wax is marginal but will work if you apply it regularly. Boeshield is another product I use but like the feel wax gives. I love your videos; lots of practical and important information (woodworking wisdom). I certainly benefit from your many years of experience (successes and failures). You are a wonderful teacher that has inspired my efforts and skill to advance to the next level!
Thanks Paul! FYI I spent my early years in N. Illinois and can relate to the effect of humidity there... makes me appreciate the dry climate here for this and other reasons😎 I've recently made it a point to take a closer look at Boeshield and may gravitate that way going forward. Glad you've found inspiration here and hope you find it in other videos as well... Best, Matt
You share my ethos in life, a tradesman is only as good as his tools, buy the best and look after them, they will outlast you and you can pass them on to the next caring person, not only that, but badly maintained tools,let alone machinery can be dangerous
As usual, 10/10 for video content, audio and interest.
Rich, thanks so much for your comments and taking the time to post them. Knowing there's appreciative folks like you in the Next Level Carpentry 'audience' is motivation to press on with the Channel. Since the video/audio/interest part of the RUclips endeavor is the most challenging for me your generous 10/10 rating is very encouraging! Stay tuned and I'll try not to disappoint :-)
Best,
Matt
Finally video that shows important fact that is overseen.... MAINTENANCE of your tools *your investment* great job!! Got sub from me.. btw.. good long term lubricant / rust prevention is product called Boeshield T9...
BF Florida,
Thanks for the sub and for commenting! Your humid Florida environment is a great endorsement for Boeshield T9 and I expect viewers will recognize it as such.
Great job as always.....In your years of experience what species of wood do you recommend to make an outdoor planter box. I'm just getting my feet wet into carpentry and really enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us all, I've learned a great deal from your videos....
That's a lot of elbow grease you've used - but the time and effort speak for themselves, the results are stunning ---- Great video --- I'm definitely covetous of the Powermatic Jointer!
Jim, At least making a video of the process made me think less about the drudgery involved but, as you mention, the results are always worth it! I suspect that Powermatic is cause for more than a bit of coveting :-) I well remember the feeling before I invested in it. I feel it's the best in its class, especially when upgraded with a Byrd Shelix cutterhead! It can hog through a full 1/2" deep x 8" wide cut on a plank if I ask it to but is equally capable of removing a 'frogs hair' from a face or edge too.
Keep in mind though that your helpers are either going to hate you or quit when you get one for Christmas and make them haul it to your portable jobsite workshop... that machine is a BATTLESHIP in the shop!
Another great 'how to' video. I will need to find some of those sanding blocks, my table saw and jointer need some TLC
Tom, thanks for a complimentary comment on this video! You'll really appreciate how the Sandflex blocks work for this sort of thing. If you can't find 'em elsewhere there's always the Next Level Carpentry page on Amazon... juss sayin' :-)
Happy Thanksgiving!
Matt
I have found my soulmate in you. I am so glad that you show the young people how much easyer working is when you keep your tools and workplace clean and in good order.
In other ( always execelent ) videos you talk about safety.
It made me think of the times back in the sixties, when I sometimes worked as a young electrician in carpenter machine shops. There is was rare to find a caepenter with all his fingers intact. But please stop making more videos, I spend so much time watching them that I cant find time to sleep. I need to sleep. ;-)))
Thanks for a nice comment Steffen... it's always gratifying to connect with a 'soulmate'! Safety came into focus the day I nipped the tip off my right index finger... my mission is to pass that focus on to others BEFORE they have a paradigm-shifting reminder of their own to guide them through their life and career. I too have encountered 'digitally challenged' guys in millwork shops... it was nearly inevitable in days when production and career were the biggest motivators, even if it meant compromising safety to achieve it.
There would be double benefit if I 'stop making more videos'... that way I'd get more sleep too as a result of many dozens of hours that I wouldn't spend editing video into the wee hours. But I'm not going to tell Mrs Next Level Carpentry of your tempting suggestion because she'd agree with you that we BOTH need more sleep! 😲😉😎 Best, Matt
It 4 o'clock in the morning here in Denmark. So see what you have done. Greetings to the mrs.
@@steffentauber4996 am I to assume you've stayed up VERY late and not that you got up really early? 😃 I've still got a couple hours work to do in the shop before tackling the latest video editing project 😩 which is the unboxing of the new Gyro Air G700 Dust Processor I got for the shop... I hope the video comes out worthy of a late night... Best, Matt
Cant wait.
I bought a used band saw awhile ago and the table for it is pretty rusty. What's your advice for how to restore it to its glory days and suggestions on an overall cleaning for the bearings? It's my first band saw and I'm now to woodworking. Only about 3 years and still new to this stuff. Love your videos and advice. I appreciate the extra time you take to really explain the steps for everything.
Great video man. I've never heard of sandflex blocks, I'll have to get some of those.
Jake, Glad to know you like this video... I see you realize you NEED Sandflex blocks :-) Keeping cast iron looking good is only the beginning... you'll find they work great on all kinds of stuff! BTW I use the coarse grit most, the medium some and the fine only once in awhile when I need to almost 'polish' something.
Best,
Matt
Another good one, I also put moving blankets over mine when not using between jobs.
Greg,
Moving blankets? Interesting... seems too simple to be effective...will you explain for viewers and me? Do you have to use WD-40 or something with the blanket or is just covering enough? My first reaction is that the blanket would get damp from ambient humidity and make matters worse... I get the feeling I'm about to learn something new :-)
Thanks!
Matt
I bought my Delta Rockwell 10” Tilting Arbor Table Saw in 1972: it continues to serve me well-even after all these many years. My saw came with the very stable and functional fully cast iron top. Of course, I immediately converted it to 220v, and added a laminate extension; eventually, I added a Biesemeyer rip fence, and a Fenner Link V-Belt.
My late father-in-law, who was a wood shop teacher, taught me about the regular use of Johnson’s Paste Wax to protect the cast iron and the laminate surfaces. Bottom line: the cast iron and laminate remain in excellent condition.
I was worried about the wax interfering with wood finishes until my father-in-law noted that Johnson’s was used as a floor wax, and it did not muck up shoes-or damage carpets when you walked from a waxed floor to a carpeted one!
Since I’m a chemist, I looked into the chemistry of carnuba wax, the main ingredient of Johnson’s. Suffice it to say, its chemistry is completely consistent with its not being detrimental to wood finishing techniques.
By the way, thanks for teaching us about “faux fingernails”: my local DYI store has just been liberated of many samples of the less popular Formica colors/patterns. The Formica samples are much better than the sharpened plastic putty knife I’ve been using, AND VERY COST-EFFECTIVE!
Great anecdote Joe.. I love to hear how people preserve and appreciate solid machinery to abet their woodworking hobby/career. Sounds like you might agree with me that many people who have trouble with finishes end up blaming paste wax or silicone (used judiciously) as the culprit when a more likely cause is poor workshop/woodworking hygiene. Work safe and have fun! Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry
Matt,
My “vintage” tools are like long-time friends: I treat them well, and they reciprocate.
I don’t consider myself an expert at applying wood finishes, but I remember what my father-in-law told me: over 50% of wood finishing is preparation-even the much dreaded process of sanding! You might appreciate what he told me when I said that I’d bought a belt sander: “You now own the most destructive woodworking tool ever invented.”
Best, Joe
@@joewrosenthal00 "the most destructive woodworking tool ever invented." truer words are seldom spoken! LOL Best, Matt
@@joewrosenthal00 "the most destructive woodworking tool ever invented." truer words are seldom spoken! LOL Best, Matt
Typically I leave the paste wax application until the end of the day. I then spend a lot of time cleaning and about an equal time applying the paste wax. Though I've never used the wax in a rag method I can see the value of it because it would speed up my process. I too have seen many people using sanding machines to clean their cast iron tops, much to my disdain. I have also seen many table saw stored outside allowing the cast iron top to rust. These people apparently have no pride in their equipment. My wood working tools are considered my toys and i take real good care of my toys! Thanks for sharing!
Terry; great minds think alike when it comes to taking good care of 'toys', right? :-) Your method of leaving wax wax application until the end of the day is a good one... letting it sit awhile before buffing off seems to make it 'last' a bit longer than buffing it off right away, doesn't it? I often find myself in the thick of things with a sticky jointer bed and so end up in 'wax and go' mode more often than not. I think you'll like the wad-o-wax in a rag method when you give it a try... especially helpful on larger/longer surfaces.
Best,
Matt
Hello! Love your videos:) an Idea I'll pass along for protecting your surface... What I do is get a sacrificial sheet of melamine, cut it to just over size of my work surface. Glue just pops right off melamine, and it is double sided for lots of use.
Hi Matt. The GIGALOO is a spray on application you spray it on whatever it draies in minutes but than you have a very well lubricated surface and it’s protected from moisture and so on
I spray it on all of my aluminum tools that I have like table saw top and miter saw stand by Dewalt and many other things
Being exposed here to the snow I also use it on my car hinges and door bottoms where they are subjected to the snow and salt on the road
I might have mentioned before I also use it on my bikes chain
Regards Dave
Interesting... I'm curious what similar products might be available here by a different name. Having something so universally helpful sounds great! Best, Matt
Paste wax comment. I've used Johnson's for years. I do first apply Boeshield T-9, buff it in, then put paste wax after. I'm in the Pacific Northwest and winters are humid; it works well for me.
Regarding a thick layer of paste wax vs multiple wax coats, etc. From multiple sources I've read that after you have buffed out the wax, the remaining layer is microns thick. Essentially, paste wax doesn't stick to paste wax. Based on that I feel that if your 1st layer is evenly and thoroughly applied, it can be a thin layer. A 2nd layer will just dissolve the 2st later. A single thin coat will apply faster, dry faster, and buff out faster.
Interesting.... thx for adding this info Jim! Best, Matt
I am so thankful for this video in particular as we have upgraded our shop with some cast iron surfaces machinery. I have my sanding blocks and am excited to clean some glue marks off of my table saw 🤦🏻♀️.
Thanks MSAF... Not sure if I covered it in the video or not but if there's any glue left on the surface scrape it first with a sharp razor blade... the blocks are invaluable for removing marks but really weak for removing glue😉😎 Nothing like going to work on machines with gleaming bright cast iron surfaces though! Best, Matt
Next Level Carpentry thank you Matt! I did this today and it worked out wonderful. I tried to find you on IG or send a pic through here but could not. Instead I posted a pic and put a link to this vid on my IG. Jolene_the_toolwoman_taylor. If you want to see :).
@@mysinsareforgiven Glad to hear it... there's just nothing like the look, feel and performance of a shiny piece of cast iron, right? BTW the only 'photo' account I have is Pinterest but plan on setting up IG soon since I recently upgraded to a new smart phone that can handle it. Hope your IG photo inspires others to give their machines a bit of this TLC! Best, Matt
Matt, thanks for your efforts, I appreciate the tidbits.
Food for though, in case you needed an idea for a short video. Have you considered a short piece on "how to build" your table saw work space extension. Taking into account the things you considered when building your own table saw extension, or anything you might have done different reflecting on hind site? The extension size, distance of the router, etc? Just in case you needed an idea for another short video.
I will be adding an extension table to my old delta table saw, and prefer not to reinvent the wheel if not necessary.
As a side note, in the video where you used body filler to level the damaged boards used for the door frames with the frosted glass inserts, it would have been nice to see your thoughts and process in fitting the door frame with the router.
Keep up the good work?
Thanks for being such an attentive viewer Bat Time... you're more than welcome for the tidbits. Unfortunately video ideas aren't something I lack, it's time and ability to produce videos that's the bottleneck here. That said I'll be replacing the extension table on my saw at some point in the future and, with luck, will be able to do a meaningful video about it at that time. In the meantime I made it longer than the fence rail and wider than the regular tabletop because, as you've seen, it doubles as a work surface. Bigger is better for the most part. The top is supported and strengthened by a welded and bolted steel framework that adapts to the old Delta Unisaw. Router placement as you see it has always been fine but I may relocate it now that I want to add dust collection to it. That aside, I chose a central location for better support when routing larger, oddly shaped pieces. You see it in action when I make Professional Pushsticks in that video. The top you see is 3/4" particleboard with 'formica' type laminate on both top and bottom to keep it flat. I put plastic 'tee-edge' around it which has worked well but not as good as solid wood edging would. The new top will be made out of a sheet of solid phenolic panel 3/4" thick. It will be a great improvement but only possible because a friend gave me the piece he got as salvage; it was a mis-ordered toilet partition panel. Otherwise I probably wouldn't justify $400 plus just for a worktable top.
As far as the door frame goes I plan on going deep in the weeds for assembly of door and jamb when I make my new shop door out of wood from the Perfect Pallets. That video should answer a lot of questions about how I make and fit the door frame together. If you had a specific question about it in the meantime ask and I'll try to answer.
Thanks for watching and commenting here! Best, Matt
Hi Matt hope all is well .congrats on the new place and new shop looking foreword to some vids from it
seeing this video reminded me of a product I’m using a lot up here in Montreal
It’s called GIGALOO. it’s a dry silicon base I lube with it my bicycles and just about everything that needs a lube
I’m sure you have the equivalent down in your neck of the woods give it a try I’d love to hear what do you think of it
Cheers Dave
Hey David... thanks for your comment. Sounds like a useful product... haven't seen the brand or name before. Bostic makes a spray on product called Dri-Cote ??? that sounds similar but it's a non-silicone base. Overall I like paste wax better than spray on since I have a possibly false impression that it holds up longer. Is Gigaloo spray on or liquid or paste? I'm always interested in newer better products, especially when they work better, last longer and/or are easier to use and apply. New shop's coming along nicely making me anxious to get some new videos going... Best, Matt
Matt, you never fail to impress. I thought I did a decent job cleaning my saw but you just upped the game. Where did you get that throat plate with the sliding insert?
Hey thanks Rick... sorry man I really wasn't trying to one-up you😀 I've received so many comments on that awesome throat plate but sadly I have to reply that it's no longer available. I forget the name of it just now but you can see it in my response to other similar questions on this thread and if you find the name of it you might luck out and come up with one of those on eBay or something. It's a fantastic accessory and if you do much woodwork is probably worth the effort it would take to locate one. Best, Matt
Thanks.
You are the fastest scrubber I think I've ever seen... Don't tell my wife I told you this
OOHRAH! Outstanding! Semper Fi
Fun to get an authentic 'OOHRAH!"... enthusiasm is good for the soul!
I thoroughly enjoy your videos! I'm trying to figure out how to make a workbench where I can spread my tools in the order I use them. Would you have any suggestions? Semper Fi
You might be familiar with the saying "fight your battles with force you have, not the force you wish you had"... or something like that. Same goes for woodwork/carpentry: it's not what you got but how you use it that counts! A bench like you're trying to figure out is a pipe dream... unless the bench is dedicated to a single task. Otherwise there's no such thing as a bench big enough for even a narrow range of projects. Best is to have a good, solid bench of reasonable size (like 36 x 72) with essentials like a vise, drawers and shelf/tray for in-use stuff from any project. If you find yourself doing one thing more than others ie: like making cabinet doors or making drawers, you might gravitate towards a particular collection of tools. Start with the largest, most solid bench you can and go from there. Hope that helps a little?
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Indeed it does! In more ways, you can imagine, and thank you, Mr. Matt! Semper Fi, Rob
Oh! and BTW, I love the sounds of wood coming together. Especially on the bench! Those sounds are great, at least to me.
Thanks for the tips. What would you do to recondition a saw that was very neglected? I am talking a heavy orange-brown coat of rust from side to side? I inherited a reasonable saw that was left in a shed with a bad roof. -KJ
Great TLC on the bread winners Matt.
What type of setup do you have when working in a customers home? I’m exploring ways to be more efficient on portable.
Thanks Brian... I just happen to be sitting here reviewing comments :-) My portable tablesaw is a DeWalt DW745 10-Inch Compact Job-site model with a teflon coated aluminum top so it doesn't need much at all in the way of upkeep. I don't use a jointer or bandsaw on-site so no cast-iron there either. Ditto on my miter saw.
I don't do a ton of on-site work so my setup, although it works great for my needs, might not be anything to model for your projects. I do make my own welded steel portable stands for my tools: mitersaw, tablesaw, thickness planer, etc because that way they are specific to my equipment and needs. If you look closely in my videos you'll see the custom portable stands in use. IMHO any 'universal' portable base is going to be an inefficient compromise in order to fit a wide enough range of tools to make it profitable for the manufacturer. So I guess my short answer is that I achieve efficiency in portable by using 'lean design' wherever possible.
Hope that helps?
Best,
Matt
OK muy bien y limpio , gracias
J.M.
Gracias por el comentario y el cumplido!
El mantenimiento puede ser pesado, pero es muy agradable trabajar con equipos limpios, ¿no?
thanks to you, I follow your channel, I am a carpenter in Spain and I also apply cleaning especially to portable tool so as not to fail in customer site, thank you again.-------- gracias a usted, le sigo a su canal , soy carpintero en España y también aplico la limpieza sobre todo a portátil herramienta para no fracasar en sitio cliente,, gracias de nuevo -----------
J.M.
It's great to hear from Spain... thanks for your comments! As you've learned there's no greater marketing method than when you show up on a jobsite with clean, well organized tools!
Es genial saber de España ... ¡gracias por tus comentarios! ¡Como
has aprendido, no hay un método de comercialización mayor que cuando
apareces en un lugar de trabajo con herramientas limpias y bien
organizadas!
I had an enlarger bought used with a laminate base wit some chips like yours. Plastic wood made a great filler and lacquer thinner is the solvent.
Ron, thanks for commenting... Do you think plastic wood is strong enough to hold up as a chip repair? I'm not sure... I have considered using autobody filler to fill the chips but will probably just wait until it's time to replace the whole laminate surface though...
Been holding in a 1" chip that was there when I purchased the saw. So yes for sure. Do not over fill and try to sand down as it gets stone hard. For something I cared about, buy a flexible pallet knife and apply in thin layers. Tone trick dentists use is to undercut a filling, i.e. drill down and make bottom wider than top. Think of it as a dovetail filling.
larger areas can be squared , routed down to wood layer, and a patch put in.
If I used a laminate top, I would use wood edges so as not to expose edges to chipping.
Best of luck
I like the idea of 'dovetail filling'... makes sense and has to work... Nice! Thanks for the follow up... Best, Matt
Matt, where did you get the insert plate for your Unisaw? I like the slide-in wood insert for zero clearance. Thanks for all of your videos!
That's a Wood Dynamics zero clearance insert that I've had for decades Kevan. Unfortunately it's out of production and the patent is expired. Good news is that I'm working with Greg's Garage to reproduce a 'replica' with improved look and design... stay tuned for developments? Best, Matt
Nice vid... where did you get that zero clearance insert with the replaceable wood?
www.pinterest.com/pin/551479916872563704/
Can you show me a couple of pictures of the base you made?
Great tips. I keep my machines in my basement and for what ever reason, probably related to the oil fired boiler, in the last year or two the surfaces are rough from a surface of rust. Where would you start...what abrasive.. to cleanup the surface. And what would would you do about the poor quality metal parts such as screws , and in particular the cylindrical post for my floor Rigid drill press that have deteriorated? Even my Freud dado set that I used yesterday for the first time in two years had some imperfections in the surface.
SKWDMDYT,
Rust happens! An oil fired boiler should be a plus by putting some oily fumes in the air during cold months... I'd guess it's ambient humidity in the basement that's the culprit so you'll need to take extra measures to prevent rust from quickly undoing any hard work you do to clean up rust you have. Living in a dry climate I'm not the one to know which measures are best so do some searching around for stuff like BoeShield, desiccants, etc recommended by woodworkers in Seattle, Hawaii or other extremely humid locale.
Start off with the easier stuff like the dado blade so you feel like you're winning. For that I'd start on the dado set with a SandFlex block which I use for bare metal tools like sawblades, rulers and squares, etc. Avoid hitting cutting surfaces on the teeth because sharpness is more important than shine there. Once you've got it cleaned up use a protective spray or store those smaller things in a plastic box with desiccant packs or the like.
When in 'restoration' mode rather than maintenance mode you'll need to resort to more drastic measures to get things cleaned up. It's kind of like chemotherapy for tools so once you do the treatment, do whatever it takes to keep it from recurring. That might mean spraying it with BoeShield after use and then wiping the surface with a solvent so it's clean and dry before each work session. The first drillpress I owned was neglected and badly rusted similar to yours. I used an old beltsander belt, #80 or #100 grit. Tear it so at the seam and then make a couple strips from it. Wrap a strip around the column and scrub until clean. This aggressive measure will change the diameter of the column slightly so make a plan so you only have to do it once.
For the tablesaw I'd start with about #100 or so; use your judgement to choose between speed and results. The only way I'd do it is to put good sandpaper on a hard, flat block and approach it methodically. Other videos show using a random orbit sander or belt sander but it's too easy to distort the top surface and/or edges so I wouldn't consider it on any saw of quality or value. The goal is to remove rust and restore the surface and to avoid rounding off edges.
As I mention in the video: any time spent cleaning up your tools and equipment will reward you with satisfaction when working with well maintained tools. Plus the elbow grease you expend will encourage you to keep stuff from getting neglected :-)
Best,
Matt
thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I can't help but notice what has been happening to my machines, but unfortunately my profession requires a lot of "stuff" as well, and with aging comes the inablility to do it all. Your video was the tipping point to get busy with the maintenance. Thanks again. As I contemplate a van conversion or tiny house build I need my tools in tip top shape!
now i need sunglasses to watch your videos lol thanks for the info
Pieter,
Maybe some SPF 80 sunscreen for the shop lights too? :-) If you own the piece of industrial woodworking equipment I see in your Channel Icon I'll bet you spend time cleaning and polishing too!
Thanks for commenting...
Best,
Matt
it is a robland hx310pro i love to clean it and work whit it !
Hi
Just look for a dry silicone spray
I have watched many of your videos and I seen you roll your table saw around your work space. I have a heavy cabinet Delta 5HP saw and I bought the heaviest duty mobile base I could find but it is failing. What kind of rolling base do you use on your table saw?
Sorry I don't have a better answer for you Frank... I custom made the mobile base with steel tube and industrial grade wheels that are rated for extreme weight. The steel base is sturdy and wheels don't get flat spots in them like hard rubber ones do. Best, Matt
Sorry I don't have a better answer for you Frank... I custom made the mobile base with steel tube and industrial grade wheels that are rated for extreme weight. The steel base is sturdy and wheels don't get flat spots in them like hard rubber ones do. Best, Matt
Matt i'll give $1 for that jointer ,lol
Very nice
Cheap at twice the price 😁😎
Detailed video as always, but I couldn't find the link to elbow grease. The local shops just gave me a strange look when I asked them about it, so I guess they don't carry that type of grease either. Hmmmm...
It is indeed a rare commodity Chris. The best source is through psychiatrists because it's stored in the mind in a similar lobe as ambition, motivation and common sense!😉😎
I have been trying to go through the posts on many of your videos, to learn what table saw your using, in order for me to get an idea of the specs. But I have come up short. I remember you mentioned the name in a video, but trying to remember when and on which one.. :-)
I'm trying to find a second hand saw with a sturdy construction here in Denmark (Europe), but I seam to find only very large ones. Nothing as "nimble" as the one you have.
Any chance you can post a few short lines on your saw. My portable Dewalt table saw is okay for smaller things, but I should like to up the game a little.
I don't remember where I've described my tablesaw either, Michael.😯 It's a Delta Unisaw circa 1982. I've used it since new without disappointment. It's done everything I've ever asked of it although, unfortunately, it's long since been discontinued. I've not upgraded to a new saw like a Powermatic primarily because all new models are left-tilt and I like/want right tilt like I've always used. Sadly they discontinued that feature too too many years back. Not sure if Delta was ever sold/distributed in Denmark or what brands/models compare so my reply is not likely to help you much... sorry. I do hope you're able to find a suitable machine for your work because a tablesaw is, to me, the cornerstone of a versatile woodwork shop since it's responsible, in many ways, for the quality of finished product a shop can produce. Best, Matt
How often do you check the calibration of your equipment for proper alignment and parallelism? You seem to be a perfectionist so where do you draw the line on good enough, considering wood is an imperfect material, and the machines, tape measures, squares, etc have their tolerances as well?
SKWDMDYT, Good question. I do have perfectionist tendencies so I use this credo to draw a line to balance perfectionism and practicality:
"If it takes a little work to make something a lot better, it's usually worth it. If it takes a lot of work to make something just a little better, it's probably not worth it"
Applied to equipment adjustments I check and adjust anything that will affect the quality of the job at hand. For instance I'll check the squareness of the fence on my jointer every time I'm milling pieces for edge glueing because it's imperative that edges are 'perfectly' square. On the other hand you probably saw the chipped laminate on my tablesaw extension table in the video. It grates on my perfectionist nerves to see those chips but they don't affect the quality of work I'm doing so I just leave them... for now.
I expect the machines I invest in and rely on to tenaciously hold alignment, parallelism etc and only check/readjust if I notice a change. An example is 'dialing in' the rip fence on the tablesaw if/when I notice cut quality deteriorating. The fence slides on nylon guides (far from an ideal design) and over time they wear to the point of needing adjustment or replacement. It doesn't matter for routine ripping work but isn't acceptable for cutting expensive veneered panels. That's when I do a lot of work to make something (parallel alignment) just a little better.
Hope that helps, sir!
Always appreciate your comments, questions and feedback..
Work safe and be well!
Happy Thanksgiving...
Matt
Hi Matt, try and pour from a gallon can with the spout on the top and not the bottom, you won't have a residue on the top of the gallon can.
Definitely the best way... just need to remember, right? 😉😎
Remember what? lol
Can you talk about your band saw base?
Hey Bill, sure... but there's not much to talk about. It's just a mobile base that's available from Laguna for their saws. It works OK but is actually a bit on the flimsy side. In a perfect world I'd copy their design but make it from heavier steel but as it is I put up with it as far better than none at all. Hope that helps? Best, Matt
Matt, I see that you use a large washer on your table saw blade. Did that come with your saw or is that an add on?
Hey Ron,
That large washer is an aftermarket blade stabilizer made by Forest. You can see it on Amazon influencers page in the video description. I use it whenever possible to make sure I'm getting the smoothest Cuts possible but I've never done any scientific evaluation to determine exactly what benefit it provides but I am always pleased with the cuts I get while using it.
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Ok thank you very much for getting back to me so quickly. I love your videos and how detailed you are! I also have some ocd in me so keep up the next level work!
My equipment used to live in an unheated garage, regular paste wax wasn't enough an auto wax worked much better. Some are silicone free.
Good you found a product with adequate protection, Monte... unheated spaces can be brutal to preserving bare cast iron. BTW I wouldn't be concerned about a wax that worked well even if it has silicone in it... I've never had any trouble with surface lubricants 'infecting' wood during milling to the point it had any negative effect when finishing.
Best, Matt
So Matt, you French Polished your table saw. hehehe. That's a cool idea. I had never thought of that. Today is cleaning day for my saw, so I gotta try that. I usually just keep dipping the rag into the wax, so this should go much easier. Are those sandflex blocks any different than the normal Norton or 3M sandpaper blocks that are ubiquitous in the local big box stores?
Don, I'm proud of you for devoting time to cleaning your saw! I think you'll love the 'french polish' method of applying wax... seems to me it goes 3 times as fast and comes out twice as good. It's such a good feeling when you walk into the shop afterward and see that gleaming top!
The Sandflex blocks are quite different than sanding sponges (blocks) in a few ways. First they're pretty dense so they don't 'squish around' which means you can get more aggressive where you need/want to and they're less likely to round off sharp edges like along your miter guide slots.
Second: the material is kinda like a extra dense eraser rubber and the grit goes all they way through, not just a coating on the outside of a sponge. That means that they don't get 'dull' like worn sandpaper because the 'rubber matrix' that binds the abrasive particles wears away in use continually exposing fresh, sharp particles.
Third: all the sides have the same abrasive where some sponge blocks don't have any on the ends (right?)
I originally bought one of each coarse, medium and fine but have only replaced the coarse one but each person's use is going to be a bit different. I sound like a salesman but the Sandflex blocks are one of those things I'd hate to have to do without... and there's a link to 'em on the Next Level Carpentry Amazon Influencer's page in case you can't find them locally :-) Best, Matt
I usually just use some of those 3M sanding blocks, but I just ordered the set of 3 sandflex blocks from your amazon page to try out. Sounds like they will do a better job and last longer. Never did manage to clean the top yesterday (life got in the way), so I'll wait until those sandflex blocks arrive to do my french polish. :-)
Don T You sound like the kind of person who'll really appreciate the difference those blocks make... and thanks for going through the NLC Amazon page... I really appreciate it!
You'll no doubt find applications for the blocks for other tool maintenance too. Seems I use the Medium one for spiffing up my block and bench plane bodies when they tarnish from perspiring palms when planing in warm weather. The Fine one does a great job of repolishing my steel rulers, machinist's squares, etc because the stiffness of the block and fineness of the grit keep it from erasing markings in the slight grooves of the markings where steel wool or sandpaper seem to make those fade over time. Hope you get the life stuff dealt with without undue stress? Best, Matt
Life stuff......I went thru a divorce 25 years ago....nothing can mess me up for long after that. It was just a minor inconvenience yesterday, but thanks for the concern -- and the tips for using the blocks on other stuff. Looking forward to it.
I understand... what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, right? Glad it wasn't more than what it was... onward and upward :-) Matt
Hi matt,
How are things in the black hills, i saw that you commented on a bosch line laser video, i am looking at the dewalt one and would value your two cents,Liam
Hey Liam I don't have experience with anybody else's line lasers but I am thoroughly pleased with the Bosch 3-axis Green Line laser I have. At about 550 bucks it wasn't cheap but man I can tell you that thing has paid for itself a dozen times over and just the two years that I've had it. The one I own is listed on the Amazon influencers page in the video description in case you want a closer look at it and its features. Happy shopping and I'm excited for you to bring a line laser into to Arsenal because they are amazing especially for a one-man operation like mine... And yours?
Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks matt
Like you i'm a one man band specialising in finish carpentry, been at for nigh on 40yrs and love it most days. When pitching for a contract i sometimes say if you hire me ,not like some big crews that are as you say your self all hat no cattle,
Thanks again for yourtime in replying
Liam
Meant 2 say if you hire me you get me.
Companies with crews are probably our greatest source of job security, right? So often people end up disappointed by what they get from the all hat/no cattle companies that we're virtually assured a steady stream of work for as long as we want it. All the best in your endeavors... let me know what you decide on the laser? Best, Matt
Hi Matt, excellent informative content as always. I do have a request! Any chance of creating a similar video about the "Under the Hood Machine Maintenance". There are tons of video about cleaning and maintaining the surface of machines, but you can't find any good one that address the cleaning up, and lubricating what is below the surface. Also, I haven't been able to find SC Johnson Fine Wood Paste Wax, here in Canada. Amazon doesn't ship this item to Canada (no idea why). I have contacted the manufacturer directly, and they said the same thing. Is there any way one of you guys who are in the U.S can send me a tub? I will gladly reimburse the cost, by e-transfer.
Glad you found video content helpful on this one. The difficulty of 'under the hood' information for machines is that there's so much variety in design it would be difficult to cover the topic adequately. Maybe lube types, what to look for, and cleaning products/methods might be helpful so I'll consider it. If I had a video crew it would be another matter altogether as my tablesaw is due for exactly that sort of TLC and they could shoot the video while I cleaned which I could do tomorrow😯
Check into Trewax brand paste wax to see if you have any better luck with availability. I've used both with identical results.
Best, Matt
👍
I see you use Johnson’s paste wax. I have used it in the past with good results. I can no longer find it and have been told it is no longer made. Can you recommend a good substitute?
Looks like Amazon still has the exact Johnson's stuff I'm using www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DIWIM/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d&tag=aiponsite-20&linkCode=ic6&ascsubtag=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ and it's on the NLC Influencer's page in case you still can't find it locally. I'm in the middle of a box beam project involving extensive milling on about 240bf of white oak so I've been waxing machines with this stuff extensively to confirm its worth. Hope this helps Paul... let me know? Best, Matt
I don't know where you are Paul, but I found it in stock in the paint department at my neighborhood Home Depot.
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