Rebuilding the Mini Rock Crawler Project - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this video we are bringing back the mini rock crawler project to rebuild it bigger and better. we are first starting off with bigger tires and upgrading the hubs, diffs and cv axles that broke in the last video of this project.
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Those bricks need to be awarded a medal for all the hard work they put in!
63" is the sweet spot bud. Many trails are limited to 63" because of bridges, etc.. The new tires being so much taller will help your top speed also. Looking good, keep up the good work!!
Trail width restrictions are non existent where he rides. I know a couple spots where there is a tunnel or a bridge at Brimstone thats good for 80+ inches. 70 to 72 is the sweet spot for this part of the country.
Chris, thanks for bringing this back. I really enjoyed this build
Hey, you should bring all your vehicles out sometime and show them all off. It would be really awesome to see them side by side
I think one of your projects needs to include some chain drive portal axle ends. I think that would be really slick and would take a lot of the load off the tiny ATV size drivetrains you put on these and give you tons of ground clearance!
Just as a first visual impression, looks way more proportionate. Looking forward to see where you go with this build. I enjoy your content. Thanks man.
The Polaris front diffs (pre viscolock) used a plastic caged sprague bearing style system for the front diff. The front turning slower is correct and your research is correct as to it being as designed but the reason exactly is the sprague engages when the driveshaft spins faster than the tires (no traction) and is disengaged when the driveshaft spins slower than the tires (traction). Think of it like a 3/8 or 1/2” ratcheting head on a handheld tool. That gives you less wear when 4wd is on and not needed,but the engaging and disengaging is what breaks them. The issue is those plastic sprague cages are brittle like glass and the older they get the worse. Look into aftermarket aluminum sprague cages and do NOT use OEM or Chinese axles. They are as fragile as the plastic cage. Find something like Gorilla, Rhino or SuperATV.
Great job explaining that. I was a tech at a polaris - can-am/ BRP near Seattle, and this refreshed my memory from polaris tech training in 07. I worked on snow and street machines, but also, orv when the snow went away.
@@crlawrence6359 I raced for Polaris for years before switching to Can-Am. Those diffs are great when they work but horrible when they don’t (they turn in to a 50/50 chance all time 4wd or all time 2wd). Their biggest issue is rapid back and forth loads while in 4wd. It makes the sprague bearing engage and disengage and shatters the plastic sprague cage. The axles on those units are weak like glass. Any aftermarket axle supplier can make any length, any spine. We ran Gorilla axles, 31” Outlaw tires or 32” Silverbacks. It’s basically paddle tires for mud. Never had a carrier break but bearings were changed as often as oil.
@@Beardest_Fishing I never raced, but my banshee was hard to beat on the dunes. Clem sponsored a handful of local motocross racers, so I built and maintained a bunch of dirt bikes. I also rode a ridiculous CR500 at the Oregon dunes
Very good explanation and warning!
The tires look so good, nice purchase.
ROCK CRAWLER IS BACK 🔥🔥
I would love to see you finish this with paint and make it a finished project. This was always my favorite build.
Widen it for sure. Also please consider painting what you can as you go after cleaning up the parts. If you need to weld on them again it will likely only be a small area that needs cleaning off. Brush painted one coat paint is better than rust!
Keep up the great work, I always look forward to your videos.
Massive update. Very busy, tons of progress. Those tires are insane.
I really like when you modify these things, shows how intrinsicate are your designs. And puts character to your builds!
As long as it's not using an automotive based engine, I'd say "Mini" fits it fine. After all, the lifted UTV scene still call them UTV's despite HUGE tires.
when i built my mini didnt have much cash so . ended up using suzuki Samauri axles and transfer case mated to a t5 trans with a rotax 700 triple . for tires 30-10/14 boggers the stock rims that i widen to 8.5 inch them put self tappers in the bead . foa coilovers 4 link front and watts link rear . love it for everything !
Outstanding upgrade. Nice work!
It is so cool you are still up to all this fun stuff. Last time I saw one of your videos was when you got the crazy loud Kawasaki chop saw good to see you have a huge following and still make these sweet builds!
Looks so much better man!! Bet it will preform better as long as you have the power. 🤙🏻 Love your videos been watching for years.
I’m liking where you’re going with this project.
B welding Rock Buggy returns!!
You are a bad ass. I am always impressed with your work.
Looks so good with the bigger wheels🎉
Best way to learn huh? Haha build -> thrash -> break -> improve!
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
24:37 I love watching your brain at work with the heavy mods I envy you to be honest
I was going like "Why the hell did you you put diffs in a rock crawler?! Also those diffs are obviously faulty!" at the going into the garage shot before you explained the CV joints broke 😅
Rock crawlers are usually things like Jeeps or whatever. And they usually have locking differential so they don't ever spin. They're also usually geared really low and slow moving.
Heck yeah man this is looking sweet!! Awesome to see this build back 👌🏻
Great job as usual, just a quick note, when you're building your new shop, please make accomodations for a sandblasting booth 😊
if you look for axles out of a 64 inch wide sxs you could make your rig wider and then just buy axels without modifying them plus this is my favorite build im a big fan of off-roading and was missing seeing this build but i love the way its turning out
Many Quad trails have width limits and I'm pretty sure you're right at them as is. The way you have this set, with the engine and drivetrain, puts the center of gravity pretty low already, so don't bother widening. You'll get through the turns and rocks better as you've set it up.The old electric steering from the other buggy should work better in this.There should be a rheostat in the power input for it to increase it's torque. Seeya.
It's time for paint Chris... Looks amazing with the new diffs and wheels though.
Always enjoy your designs and work. Always improving 👌
that's a pretty nice chassi. next build, use that and automotive parts, Expedition rear independent suspension, S10 or Ranger trans & transfer case and a V-tech. it should rip and be quite durable
better make sure that front diff works. I just rebuilt that same one and the rollers inside have to be able to move freely. Can't make it too wide not to fit on your trailer.
paint job to those frames or powder coating will add a nice touch to your vehicles!
Also have you ever thought on building like a full size project? big engine, big power..
That was a great idea cutting the housing down . It still looks factory & not soo bulky. You know what your doing for sure .
Not sure if you said anything about this, but most rock crawlers have locking differentials, or are mechanically locked. It kills your turning radius, (one of the reasons many have 4 wheel steer) but they perform much better on the rocks.
We need to get this out west for some crawling 🤙🏻
Chris, you have the right attitude!! Laughing your ass off as the thing is being difficult. Evidently, the transfer case uses a viscous coupling. my first thought was smaller front wheel diameter than rear. Another note... Universal joint face at front and rear of each propeller shaft need to be within 1° of one another on the same shaft. More than that can result in u joint failure and/or some vibration in the drive train, especially under acceleration.
Chris I think the Mini Rock Crawler is one of my favorite builds on RUclips I really do like it out of all your builds I have it the most 😊😢😊
I could watch the cleaning time laps ALLLL DAAAAY!
I have the same exact jumper. They are awesome!
You should look more into the single seater sand rail parts available. People have been building street bike engine powered mini sand rails for thirty years that I know of and some of those put 200+ hp to the ground, some strong compact parts! The Porsche axles they use often on them will hold several hundred horsepower!
Over/underdriving the front wheels can also be a tuning aid to improve handling. Its probably not something you need in this application but it does have its uses.
You built a giant world leader toys crawler 😮😅😅 wobbly tires and all but it's awesome 👌
The simple reason for the different final drive ratio's front and rear is to compensate for the front and rear tyres being a different size on the 450 quad
Yes.I've noticed the fronts are slightly taller and thinner than the rears too.
A crazy idea would be to paint things before they rust....
Hell yeah, big tires and beadlocks, finally you'll be comfortable enough to drive with low PSI, right? keep up the good work bro😁
Keep it narrow for now and see what breaks. Also, look into a rekluse clutch, it will help you offroad as you don't need to use the clutch to take off anymore. They are expensive though and not sure if it's made for the sv650 engine.
The timbers on your shed doors should be the other way around 👍
Lol well noticed. They are in tension but they should be in compression.
Absolutely upgrade the hubs and widen it now. It will be less work in the long run, because those old ones are definitely going to break. Same situation as using those tiny 250 diffs on a vehicle that probably weighs 800 pounds. Just make it strong so you have a chance to use and enjoy it.
I don't know about the new stuff, but generally the four-wheel drives I have had, would have something like a 4.11 rear end and a 4.10 front, so the front end will spin just slightly faster than the rear to drag the vehicle around
cool project
Midi rock crawler 😂😂😂❤ And check how wide your trailer is 😊 so it will fit on the trailer 🥊🥊🇬🇧
I think its still a mini! I think it needs 4-6 inches wider. Love the new wheels! mike
You are making some great improvements on the mini rock crawler.
Im excited for this!
Keep it narrow to get through the ATV trails but air down the tires and run water in them when you’re going to really crawl it.
Mini rock crawler is good still I’d say, and 64” is ideal for east coast trail riding.
29:22 that looks sick
I really like your comment. It’s not a rather be welding video without modifying something heavily. lol
You might think about gussets for the tab mounts
Widen It and use those cv and make it 4 wheel steering. Definitely still a mini crawler.
Tires look good! I say keep the width as is.
A big thank you to the guy who sent in the stuff to help you along with the project and also enhancing our viewing pleasure.
It'd be great to see what that rig could do with a complete suspension. Right now you have shocks but no springs. Springs are what handle the ride characteristics, body angle, ride softness/firmness etc. while shocks dampen and control the motion of the springs.
You only have shocks so the suspension on this rig is always lopsided and wonky.
More than once I have wondered if you've ever considered mounting a winch on some sort of heavily constructed, welded up steel structure securely attached to the back of the shop directly across from the door. It could be used to pull vehicles up into the shop, but also with some securely mounted pulleys up near the roof it could help to lift and lower heavy parts like engines and such.
Since you are redoing things, i would have put the differential higher up and the hubs lower at a similar angle that the control arms would have been but made it solid like you did so your center ground clearance is much higher. It would be similar to a hummer but a live solid axle.
If you dont already have one, a Portaband is a wonderful tool lol
Great video 💯👍
Polaris makes quads with chain driven front differentials , I believe it might be the sportsman 425 magnum or something like that, with all the smaller type engines you use that might be a better choice for your drive train or even on another project you do down the road it would be cool to see you use a chain driven front and rear differential with a jack shaft and it just be full time 4x4 .. anyway great work all the way around love the stuff on your channel
Diff ratio/wheel rotation can be equalled out with tyre profile changing the rolling ratio..
You need to get some of that wipe on clear coat for your projects, it would help slow down the rust. until you have finalized them and paint them. This is my favourite project of yours even though it had many flaws.
Looks great with those larger wheels. Think you are going to have to change that gearing if you want to go over 20mph!
I definitely appreciate the work to this happen but… you could always cram some Dana 30s from a jeep under there ;) I’d imaging you can get them dirt cheap.
Samurai transfer case and axles!!!!!!!
if you think that clutch was screaming for dear life before..... i bet it melts down on his first off road trip
You should make a four wheeler. It would be nice to see how that would work out!
What you could do to see if it looks better with a wider axle is to make some temporary hub mount extension that bolt onto the original hub location that way you can see if it is better or not and if it is only a smaller modifications is required as you could use the temporary hub extension to make a permanent wider axle
Chris, if I remember right, the motor you are using is a kawasaki Clone engine suzuki borrowed. You can swap the rear pinion/bevel gear swap with a 2008ish Teryx sidebyside. This will help with the gearing issue. If I'm wrong with the motor, my bad.
ALL GOOD
Nice work. While you are cleaning all the bits up, you should paint them as you go, as you know what bits already work and what bits wont be changed, so may as well start doing that now, rather than having to strip the whole thing down later again and doing it then.
Holy build resurrection Batman!
For that front diff, it can surely work if there is a one way bearing (like on bicycle) so that the front wheels can "free spin" in the forward direction. Once the rear starts slipping, the driveshaft it will start spinning faster, so the front wheels will get engaged. Maybe that is the way it works? But in that case, the 4x4 mode would be in forward direction only. Or maybe there is some other interesting mechanism? :)
Big fan of your builds Chris, but sorry to say something negative that rear axel is a lot of work that a second hand $100 different would solve? And it would be lighter and stronger. Going to look awesome on those wheels though!
Of course you have to mod the new differentials!
the engine isn't bad, I have the same in my bike, the 2014 V-Strom 650, and for lightweight stuff, it's perfect, but a rock crawler isn't as lightweight as a motorcycle, so idk how it performs in this usecase. btw, really fun bike to have, as it's capable of doing everything I want to use it for as a beginner on 2 wheels
Just run it with the current hubs.
You can find out if it needs widening. If so, do it with the stronger hubs
They call those Rock bouncers
I do think widding the wheel base would improve it and make it look it a little bit more aggressive looking.
Looks like a mini rock bouncer
Let's go! Been waiting for this one.
I’m glad you aren’t afraid to tear into a project and rework it. Something to think about would be your weight bias and visibility. If you could extend that wheelbase in the rear, it seems it would shift your weight bias forward. You could then afford to move that radiator to the back to improve visibility. Even though you’re moving the radiator to the back, extending the rear links/driveshaft would effectively move your weight forward and more than make up for the radiator shift. Just an idea.
I do like the idea of the samurai axles. I’d be curious to weigh your axle setup before you connect it back to the rig, and then compare that to the weight of a samurai axle.
Another idea would be to compare the ratio of width/height/length/tire size of the Jesse Haines Fabrication buggies and see how that ratio compares to yours. You could still call it a mini rock crawler compared to the tires on those.
Your axles are essentially portal axles! While you’re widening them, why not maximize clearance too? The bottom of the axle shaft could be almost flush with the bottom of the axle “housing” tubes with almost no risk of damaging them. Also you could have the ends a couple inches lower than you already do.
Love what you do!
I would play with wheel spacers, before I spent all the time/money modifying the axle cage.
Agree if you upgrade to the bigger hubs people run spacers on sxs’s all the time I think a 1” wheel spacer on both ends would get you where you want and not really sacrifice strength and make it a lot easier to do as well
You Underestimate that awesome 650 Suzuki engine mate Got the old Vstrom and shes awesome
With the cv axle set up, you could have arched the axle frame to give you more ground clearance.
think about the axels widen it where you can find axels for it to have a spare on the trail.
I think keep it simple keep the original hubs and it's current width. Those hubs should be OK.
I want to see 4 wheel hydraulic steering 😆