The use of silicone adhesive around electronics is not recommended since it emits acetic acid as it cures which will eat away at copper conductors. If you must use silicone find a source for silicone adhesive that is for aquarium construction. It has very little emission of corrosive off gassing.
This is awesome. I would recommend adding a battery keep the esp online for at least a few hours after power is turned off to be able to tell the difference between a bad wifi connection and a power-off event.
No, this is terrible Exposed electrical wires, which goes into distribution board is terrible idea or rather deadly one Idea itself is illegal in most countries in UK it is absolutely illegal, not to mention plastic which should be phased out due to risk it posses (it can melt and drip on flammable material causing fire)
Wait You want to add possible source of heat or fire or even explosion to energise something in place where you have perfect source of electric energy? This makes no sense Especially because DIN rail mounted Bell transformers are cheap standard
Awesome project, but be careful with soldered wires in screw terminals. Under sustained pressure the solder deforms and becomes loose over time. Here in Hungary it is also against the code to solder any wires installed in buildings. It's a fire hazard.
Do this only in case if you live alone in your flat. --- Anyway don't follow this video if you have children and you would like to see them growing up.
It looks nice but this design would probably not be anywhere close to being regulatory compliant here in the UK or anywhere which uses British Standards (e.g. BS1363) such as Ireland, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malta or much of Africa (e.g. Botswana). I do however think that you should've connected each breaker terminal via a busbar instead of a thick cable with the insulation stripped so that it can connect to the busbar but since you did it this way, you could've at least not left any bare metal exposed, i.e. it looks like some of the cables are not fully inside of the breaker. It might of also been worth only using RCD breakers for added safety and installing a socket inside the breaker board (like what is done with CEE 7/3 and CEE 7/5 EU [socket] standards) either connected to it's own breaker or an existing circuit...
I still don't understand much about electrical power, but I'm manufacturing a CNC Router, it still has the whole system from protection to electrical I am a system designer and developer for me it doesn't make sense to buy a bunch of equipment from different manufacturers to control a simple on and off and logic which is involved in protecting the electrical network and also protecting the CNC control electronics.... But I see that it is possible to do the same as you did in this video, of course adapting it to the universe of the CNC Control Box... .. I'll watch your video many times and see what I learn here on the channel to try to develop this!
It is mini SCADA programme for lighting and power distribution board including energy management and monitoring. Everything is right except standards,, workmanship and management the wires of control,communication and monitor module.Either there should be a seperate segment for ELV circuit or additional door for avoiding entanglement with LV wires.
Tripping that CB that way is asking for trouble. Breakers have a purpose built device called a shunt trip that does this very thing. It would have been nice to power your ESP from the line side of your main so it stayed on all the time. Then you could add a shunt close which you could use to turn the breaker on through the ESP.
Very ingenious. but do not try in the UK as it will not meet BS7671 wiring regulations and will invalidate your home insurance. It will also render you liable to prosecution unless you are an approved Building regulation Part P contractor.
I have no idea which country you live in, but in mine it's not good practice to put low current hardware in the mains circuit breaker box. We rather use two separate boxes, one for the high current and one for the low current, allowing only low current probes to live in the high current box.
WOW, super illegal and unsafe, what a major fire hazard.... DO NOT FOLLOW THIS ADVICE! Takes a special kind of stupid to solder cable going into a terminal block or to hot glue exposed circuit boards in place shows you have no idea what you are doing...
That is so unsafe in so many ways. You could have made a unit that plugs into your consumer unit using a contact transformer. And a relay to trip the RCD if you wish to. But what is the point of it all you can not switch it on again.
Protection from overvoltage? (>255V)? But yeah, it's not very safe to use a Chinese power module. Use a voltage and current transformer instead. That way, there's nothing that affects the incoming power in any way. It also galvanically isolates the microcontroller making it an order of magnitude safer.
Nice project, but i would NEVER install any low voltage sensible electronics inside the fuse box without proper insulating housing ... And hot melt glue / silicone "glue" is not a way to fix things, you need something more robust and durable. (Metal strips, screws ...) But working good for now, i am planning to implement some zigbee based monitorint for individual sockets / modules in our shop to monitor the power consumption of our fridges / freezers and also to check their temperature, and enable them as thermostats to precisely control their temperature as well. (And also to apply an automatic deicer function during the nights to get rid of the ice buildup in our showcase fridges)
Nice idea , but with all the electronics , soldering , wires and possible getting something wrong + those kinds breakers you used as far as I know are not meant to be triggered repeatedly they are for residual current protection. As much as I love DIY this is one place I would go with something from a good firm like Sonoff , they have smart wifi breakers. And if you only need to measure and on/off the entire grid just get a smart breaker as your main breaker.
You are right too but for more flexibility someone can build this, like me who likes to get data like the voltage, frequency, p.f, current, power & energy that the smart breaker will not be able to give me some of. Extracting the data is another issue on those smart breakers. In summary, we just have to build it to a standard then everything will be ok. Love the idea
This project was pure genius. So inspiring. Keep up the great work. Cheers. Oh can you recommend a book that deals with some of the design theories you dealt with here. Thanks.
Very interesting the approach you took. But I will like to suggest a more usuable and simple product with the display and power monitor. Also you should take a look to the SIEMENS LOGO programable switch. Thanks for the video
Ok, I know it is an old video but I have to ask - why did you cover the little glass fuses up? In case one goes off you need to take all down to figure out which one was the culprit.
This looks very convenient and the design is very clean! I would recommend you only use it for emergencies as the GFCI breakers are not designed to trip very many times.
@@Jarni1979 his setup has a remote turn off feature that's implemented through tripping the GFCI. GFCIs are not switches. If you have to do it regularly, it is better to use a relay specifically designed for that.
Do this only in case if you live alone in your flat. --- Anyway don't follow this video if you have children and you would like to see them growing up.
I can't recommend this at all. Not sure how the electrical regulations are in your country but here in Australia this would be a definite no go. Much of what you have done would be deemed unsafe and non-compliant.
@@mikhailkh8560 🤦♂️. That's mitigation, not prevention. With an attitude like that we should stop using seatbelts because they don't prevent road deaths.
@@shaunclarke94 in real life scenario fence will reduce victims chances for escape. And do nothing to stop intrusion. But its costs a lot. Which is great for subcontractors. Seatbelts is not correct analogue in this case. Road bumper would be better, you could use it for speed limit. But that will increase infrastracture cost, impact environment, car maintenance, etc.
One comment: When working on distribution panels like this, ensure you follow your countries regulations on electrical installations . You may not be able to do this legally.
Try getting your insurance to pay if you have any accident in the home. If your entire house goes up in flames you lose the lot as the insurance would laugh when they see this. Fun project sure, Illegal in every sense - Yep, Dangerious - Yep, (You have no way to issolate the mains coming into an electric box as you would need to pull the feed fuse out which your not allowed to do !)
This is cool and all but it's not legal to install in a distribution board in australia and even if you did without the consent of Ausgrid or Endeavour the moment one of their techs see it THEY WILL REMOVE IT WITHOUT TELLING YOU On top of that, you will get massive fines for interferring with the main distribution board since they don't understand arduino all too well in the call centre they will just take it as you were fucking around and when asked to explain it.... CAN YOU IMAGINE THEIR REACTION WHEN YOU TELL THEM "I Saw it on a You Tube video" LOL... yeah.. that's gonna go down well isn't it?
Good project! only one thing the wires of the proteccions are to small for the current of a house! you must use mínimum secction of 6mm2 for the bridges of the breakers.
Hey , the mains cables along the bottom of the mcbs from RCD, was this for testing only, did you change to bussbar on proper installation, cables looked small
Hey, all wires are 2.5mm², it is AWG13 if converted to this standard. All wires that is thinner than this I removed. Input wires to the house are the same, so no point in using thicker wires.
@@ElectricalPro Great work !! I really liked your project idea and I am very excited to implement the project, Can you write to me all elements of the project pls ? because there is some element u connect in video isn't exist in the element list and circuit diagram . Waiting for your reply as soon as possible..
Прикольная реализация, но тебе не кажется, что можно было бы сместить на DIN рейке все модули в одну сторону, а "умную часть" собрать в одну группу с противоположной стороны, а не "размазывать" по всему щитку? И, как мне кажется, не лучшая идея отключать электричество, провоцируя срабатывание автомата xD Когда делал автоматизацию своего дома, открыл для себя китайские корпуса на din рейку, есть как компактные, так и не очень, но главное, есть простые, которые содержат в себе только семисторы, реле или иногда просто макетную плату, на основе таких модулей сделал часть освещения "умным", а главное в общем наборе автоматов, почти не выделяется.
The project is only good for the little house, with little energy consumption. P.S. Despite living in US, this guy still has very strong russian accent :-)
I have a question regarding the power meter module. I have a problem when the voltage reading always increases to more than 250VAC after the device has been turned on for a few times. Where is the problem sir?
7:00 "... because I never trust devices that were build in China...". Do you say it for the UNI-T multimeter, probably the camera you are using to record, I2C Display, solder for soldering, the LEDs over your desk, the micro controller, maybe the mobile phone you use...?? xDD nowadays there is no way we can do some DIY without Chinese products!! :P Nevertheless good project!! was a good inspiration for me ;)
I understand from the comments there is a lot in this build that would notmeet BS7671. Would there ever be a case to install low voltage DC electronics in a domestic consumer unit? I’m thinking 12v doorbell transformers are OK so Is the problem just the way they are mounted in this build?
The idea is nice but in practice this is not so good. Tripping GFCI instead of having a purpose-made relay do that is wrong, GFCIs are NOT switches (btw same with circuit breakers, which few know or think about). And this way you can not turn it on remotely as well. Risking burning down your house due to malfunction of any of the large number of components not designed to be used in such applications... When there are devices that perform the very functions demonstrated but are designed and manufactured for that specific purpose, such as over- and undervoltage protection (with much better functionality), temperature monitoring, remote switching. Installation is also suboptimal. Best to install the device in one housing, use ferrules for crimping wires that go into terminals vs solder, use proper gauge wire, etc. I'd rather spend the time and effort on making the main functionality better. Only one GFCI for all the breakers? No master switch? And so on. These are the things to be addressed first. Adding bells and whistles comes second and should be done responsibly, particularly if you live in a multi-appartment building where others may have to pay for your mistakes with their belongings and perhaps even lives.
Can You sugest me a module or sensors through which i can mesure Voltage UpTo 300v 50Hz AC (Because in my house Volgate Rating 240v -- 260v ). I want to integrate with ardino/ esp32 .
Great work !! I really liked your project idea and I am very excited to implement the project, Can you write to me all elements of the project pls ? because there is some element u connect in video isn't exist in the element list and circuit diagram . Waiting for your reply as soon as possible..
That's awesome project i found all the files and circuit diagram but i can't find the lines of code where i put the name of Wifi and password ,... Please help .🤝🏻
Because I don't have any fuse holders... and I like soldering :) Hopefully, I never gonna need to replace those fuses, if the fuse blows it means something terribly went wrong, in that case the permanently soldered fuse will be the last problem to worry about. I probably don't need those fuses, I'm just paranoid that something may go wrong.
![Electrical Projects [CreativeLab]](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_nXuaCebPi8RjzINYxrETo1-K9WQerCEIndpQMoSs0BfQ=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
The use of silicone adhesive around electronics is not recommended since it emits acetic acid as it cures which will eat away at copper conductors. If you must use silicone find a source for silicone adhesive that is for aquarium construction. It has very little emission of corrosive off gassing.
This is awesome. I would recommend adding a battery keep the esp online for at least a few hours after power is turned off to be able to tell the difference between a bad wifi connection and a power-off event.
No, this is terrible
Exposed electrical wires, which goes into distribution board is terrible idea or rather deadly one
Idea itself is illegal in most countries
in UK it is absolutely illegal, not to mention plastic which should be phased out due to risk it posses (it can melt and drip on flammable material causing fire)
Wait
You want to add possible source of heat or fire or even explosion to energise something in place where you have perfect source of electric energy?
This makes no sense
Especially because DIN rail mounted Bell transformers are cheap standard
@@WizardNumberNext Not a very perfect source of power during a power outage.
Awesome project, but be careful with soldered wires in screw terminals. Under sustained pressure the solder deforms and becomes loose over time. Here in Hungary it is also against the code to solder any wires installed in buildings. It's a fire hazard.
Do this only in case if you live alone in your flat. --- Anyway don't follow this video if you have children and you would like to see them growing up.
@@kkokemaki8593 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I built nearly the same. One ESP board, one Max485 ic and a rs485 meter. A little bit of code and it works since one year 😊
can u share the details, circuit diagram and cource code?
@@YasinNurRahmanSGHS did you see my answer? I think RUclips delete it :(
@@mischi515 i did not see ur answer. i dont see any reply about my question.
@@YasinNurRahmanSGHS sorry but both two answer from me were deleted. Try to find my repo with the keys hiking meter tasmota plug control esp8266.
Can i get your circuit diagram?
It looks nice but this design would probably not be anywhere close to being regulatory compliant here in the UK or anywhere which uses British Standards (e.g. BS1363) such as Ireland, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malta or much of Africa (e.g. Botswana).
I do however think that you should've connected each breaker terminal via a busbar instead of a thick cable with the insulation stripped so that it can connect to the busbar but since you did it this way, you could've at least not left any bare metal exposed, i.e. it looks like some of the cables are not fully inside of the breaker.
It might of also been worth only using RCD breakers for added safety and installing a socket inside the breaker board (like what is done with CEE 7/3 and CEE 7/5 EU [socket] standards) either connected to it's own breaker or an existing circuit...
Meme, Everybody is free to build it in his favour and national standards. 🙄 It is a project to show what is possible.
@@IPMan-me6loI agree with you because I also built this project to the standard the country I live in uses
The cables entering into the circuit breakers need to be ferruled. Good idea for a project.
I still don't understand much about electrical power, but I'm manufacturing a CNC Router, it still has the whole system from protection to electrical I am a system designer and developer
for me it doesn't make sense to buy a bunch of equipment from different manufacturers to control a simple on and off and logic which is involved in protecting the electrical network and also protecting the CNC control electronics.... But I see that it is possible to do the same as you did in this video, of course adapting it to the universe of the CNC Control Box... .. I'll watch your video many times and see what I learn here on the channel to try to develop this!
It is mini SCADA programme for lighting and power distribution board including energy management and monitoring.
Everything is right except standards,, workmanship and management the wires of control,communication and monitor module.Either there should be a seperate segment for ELV circuit or additional door for avoiding entanglement with LV wires.
Tripping that CB that way is asking for trouble. Breakers have a purpose built device called a shunt trip that does this very thing. It would have been nice to power your ESP from the line side of your main so it stayed on all the time. Then you could add a shunt close which you could use to turn the breaker on through the ESP.
This creation is a fire hazard, life risk and over all a good idea with the worst execution possible
Very ingenious.
but do not try in the UK as it will not meet BS7671 wiring regulations and will invalidate your home insurance.
It will also render you liable to prosecution unless you are an approved Building regulation Part P contractor.
This is a really bad idea. You're using a safety device for a switch. Instead, use a contactor. And have the electronics in a separate enclosure.
People please do not do this, unless you want your house to burn down.
Build whatever smart home shit you like, but NOT in your distribution board.
I have no idea which country you live in, but in mine it's not good practice to put low current hardware in the mains circuit breaker box. We rather use two separate boxes, one for the high current and one for the low current, allowing only low current probes to live in the high current box.
far worse things in this video than putting AC and DC together in the same box...
The wire used to feed the circuit breakers is way too small. You will burn your house down if your not carefull
Wire connections in screw terminals also should not be soldered.
6 seconds in and I'm hooked by that opener :D
WOW, super illegal and unsafe, what a major fire hazard.... DO NOT FOLLOW THIS ADVICE!
Takes a special kind of stupid to solder cable going into a terminal block or to hot glue exposed circuit boards in place shows you have no idea what you are doing...
That is so unsafe in so many ways. You could have made a unit that plugs into your consumer unit using a contact transformer. And a relay to trip the RCD if you wish to. But what is the point of it all you can not switch it on again.
Protection from overvoltage? (>255V)?
But yeah, it's not very safe to use a Chinese power module. Use a voltage and current transformer instead. That way, there's nothing that affects the incoming power in any way. It also galvanically isolates the microcontroller making it an order of magnitude safer.
Nice project, but i would NEVER install any low voltage sensible electronics inside the fuse box without proper insulating housing ...
And hot melt glue / silicone "glue" is not a way to fix things, you need something more robust and durable. (Metal strips, screws ...)
But working good for now, i am planning to implement some zigbee based monitorint for individual sockets / modules in our shop to monitor the power consumption of our fridges / freezers and also to check their temperature, and enable them as thermostats to precisely control their temperature as well. (And also to apply an automatic deicer function during the nights to get rid of the ice buildup in our showcase fridges)
Nice idea , but with all the electronics , soldering , wires and possible getting something wrong + those kinds breakers you used as far as I know are not meant to be triggered repeatedly they are for residual current protection. As much as I love DIY this is one place I would go with something from a good firm like Sonoff , they have smart wifi breakers. And if you only need to measure and on/off the entire grid just get a smart breaker as your main breaker.
You are right too but for more flexibility someone can build this, like me who likes to get data like the voltage, frequency, p.f, current, power & energy that the smart breaker will not be able to give me some of. Extracting the data is another issue on those smart breakers. In summary, we just have to build it to a standard then everything will be ok. Love the idea
And no, they can not handle 2000 volts magically, with 2kV the voltage would easily jump from solderpad to solderpad
This project was pure genius. So inspiring. Keep up the great work. Cheers. Oh can you recommend a book that deals with some of the design theories you dealt with here. Thanks.
Very interesting the approach you took. But I will like to suggest a more usuable and simple product with the display and power monitor. Also you should take a look to the SIEMENS LOGO programable switch. Thanks for the video
Ok, I know it is an old video but I have to ask - why did you cover the little glass fuses up? In case one goes off you need to take all down to figure out which one was the culprit.
This looks very convenient and the design is very clean! I would recommend you only use it for emergencies as the GFCI breakers are not designed to trip very many times.
WTF are you saying
@@Jarni1979 his setup has a remote turn off feature that's implemented through tripping the GFCI. GFCIs are not switches. If you have to do it regularly, it is better to use a relay specifically designed for that.
Спасибо за видео! Родной язык детектед.
Do this only in case if you live alone in your flat. --- Anyway don't follow this video if you have children and you would like to see them growing up.
I can't recommend this at all.
Not sure how the electrical regulations are in your country but here in Australia this would be a definite no go. Much of what you have done would be deemed unsafe and non-compliant.
5 volts 2a - is so dangerous! It will burn his appartment!!
@@mikhailkh8560 there's strict regulations for segregation of services. This is a great example of how not to do it.
@@shaunclarke94 at my side regulation assume that fences could stop terrorist attack.
It never did, but regulation ensists as it.
@@mikhailkh8560 🤦♂️. That's mitigation, not prevention.
With an attitude like that we should stop using seatbelts because they don't prevent road deaths.
@@shaunclarke94 in real life scenario fence will reduce victims chances for escape. And do nothing to stop intrusion.
But its costs a lot. Which is great for subcontractors.
Seatbelts is not correct analogue in this case. Road bumper would be better, you could use it for speed limit. But that will increase infrastracture cost, impact environment, car maintenance, etc.
While a nice idea, UK's 14th edition regs would have a fit that that!
Really cool project but it will be even better if you make a custom pcb
Good project! But safety switches we breakers???... The relay price is 10Eur, but the idea is interesting :)
One comment:
When working on distribution panels like this, ensure you follow your countries regulations on electrical installations .
You may not be able to do this legally.
Definitely not legal in Australia
@@aussiegruber86 or the UK!
@@aussiegruber86 absolutely agree.
Probably not legal anywhere but 3rd world countries. Probably not there either but they just don't care 🤣
Amazing project. I will do it myself
Video should be named: "How to burn your house and make sure insurance doesn't pay for it?"
My GOD what county are you in? Love the IoT install but LV side needs a little work. Great concept though!
Try getting your insurance to pay if you have any accident in the home. If your entire house goes up in flames you lose the lot as the insurance would laugh when they see this.
Fun project sure, Illegal in every sense - Yep, Dangerious - Yep, (You have no way to issolate the mains coming into an electric box as you would need to pull the feed fuse out which your not allowed to do !)
Fantastic! Just brilliant!
This is cool and all but it's not legal to install in a distribution board in australia
and even if you did without the consent of Ausgrid or Endeavour the moment one of their techs see it THEY WILL REMOVE IT WITHOUT TELLING YOU
On top of that, you will get massive fines for interferring with the main distribution board
since they don't understand arduino all too well in the call centre they will just take it as you were fucking around and when asked to explain it.... CAN YOU IMAGINE THEIR REACTION WHEN YOU TELL THEM "I Saw it on a You Tube video" LOL... yeah.. that's gonna go down well isn't it?
Man you took this to while new level
Superb no comments
Good project! only one thing the wires of the proteccions are to small for the current of a house! you must use mínimum secction of 6mm2 for the bridges of the breakers.
Hey , the mains cables along the bottom of the mcbs from RCD, was this for testing only, did you change to bussbar on proper installation, cables looked small
Hey, all wires are 2.5mm², it is AWG13 if converted to this standard. All wires that is thinner than this I removed. Input wires to the house are the same, so no point in using thicker wires.
There is no much load anyway, here is the live chart: electrical-pro.github.io/epro/power.html you can see occasional microwave usage :)
@@ElectricalPro Great work !!
I really liked your project idea and I am very excited to implement the project,
Can you write to me all elements of the project pls ? because there is some element u connect in video isn't exist in the element list and circuit diagram .
Waiting for your reply as soon as possible..
Прикольная реализация, но тебе не кажется, что можно было бы сместить на DIN рейке все модули в одну сторону, а "умную часть" собрать в одну группу с противоположной стороны, а не "размазывать" по всему щитку?
И, как мне кажется, не лучшая идея отключать электричество, провоцируя срабатывание автомата xD
Когда делал автоматизацию своего дома, открыл для себя китайские корпуса на din рейку, есть как компактные, так и не очень, но главное, есть простые, которые содержат в себе только семисторы, реле или иногда просто макетную плату, на основе таких модулей сделал часть освещения "умным", а главное в общем наборе автоматов, почти не выделяется.
А поделитесь названием такого корпуса с макеткой?
да, лучше использовать независимый расцепитель
I am surprised how many free space is in a standard circuit breaker wall box... :)
The project is only good for the little house, with little energy consumption.
P.S. Despite living in US, this guy still has very strong russian accent :-)
Good idea. But wires were too small. Bare wires all over. You should have separate electronic parts from high voltage ac
Great as a power monitor but why did you use the temprature sensor?
I have a question regarding the power meter module. I have a problem when the voltage reading always increases to more than 250VAC after the device has been turned on for a few times. Where is the problem sir?
7:00 "... because I never trust devices that were build in China...".
Do you say it for the UNI-T multimeter, probably the camera you are using to record, I2C Display, solder for soldering, the LEDs over your desk, the micro controller, maybe the mobile phone you use...?? xDD
nowadays there is no way we can do some DIY without Chinese products!! :P
Nevertheless good project!! was a good inspiration for me ;)
Lmao bro got schooled
@@bassooll69indeed 😂
thats so cool thank you i will try it
3:41 hello, what application for making circuit like this ?
thanks in advance
How did you connect you nodemcu with pc wirelessly ? Did you flash it using arduino OTA before doing this project ??
Awesome project maine
Amazing project!!
Sure, if you want your house to burn down....
The best Project
I understand from the comments there is a lot in this build that would notmeet BS7671. Would there ever be a case to install low voltage DC electronics in a domestic consumer unit? I’m thinking 12v doorbell transformers are OK so Is the problem just the way they are mounted in this build?
Love from India
The Excellence Project
Do you power the pzem module with 3.3V? Does this work well? I added a level shifter to 5V
I want to run a computer and refrigerator will a 5v relay be enough to handle?
great work, i needed something like this in normal inverter to make wifi or bluetooth operate and monitor. can you help with that ?
I can't get ESP8266 Plugin installed in Arduino 2.1.0v any video for that setup?
good job, thanks for sharing, but i wouldn't installing in distribution box.
I hope this dude isn't using this in his home
The idea is nice but in practice this is not so good.
Tripping GFCI instead of having a purpose-made relay do that is wrong, GFCIs are NOT switches (btw same with circuit breakers, which few know or think about). And this way you can not turn it on remotely as well.
Risking burning down your house due to malfunction of any of the large number of components not designed to be used in such applications... When there are devices that perform the very functions demonstrated but are designed and manufactured for that specific purpose, such as over- and undervoltage protection (with much better functionality), temperature monitoring, remote switching.
Installation is also suboptimal.
Best to install the device in one housing, use ferrules for crimping wires that go into terminals vs solder, use proper gauge wire, etc.
I'd rather spend the time and effort on making the main functionality better. Only one GFCI for all the breakers? No master switch? And so on. These are the things to be addressed first. Adding bells and whistles comes second and should be done responsibly, particularly if you live in a multi-appartment building where others may have to pay for your mistakes with their belongings and perhaps even lives.
Hello there...!
I made this project, but i am getting problem in Light Off command !
Can anyone, please help me in this !
Can this be modified for a 3 phase power supply ?
Arduino IDE coding is not good for industrial products, it's just for prototype
а почему температура в доме всего 11 ° С ? экономите на отоплении?
is not bether do it in esphome softwaew side?
Now switch all ON with the smartphone?
I like it thanks my dear
Can You sugest me a module or sensors through which i can mesure Voltage UpTo 300v 50Hz AC (Because in my house Volgate Rating 240v -- 260v ). I want to integrate with ardino/ esp32 .
That module will work fine,
Wow. Subscribed!!!
Well why just buy a 15$ module that does the same job, just smaller and safer xD I finally found the reason why diy kills people
What is the name of this module?
@@OK-kn9cn for example shelly 1pm or shelly 2.5
MacGyver would like this...
Great work !!
I really liked your project idea and I am very excited to implement the project,
Can you write to me all elements of the project pls ? because there is some element u connect in video isn't exist in the element list and circuit diagram .
Waiting for your reply as soon as possible..
Excelente!!!...
Why is the mains voltage so low?
Can you add more some tutorial about the wiring thanks
how do you connect the bashbord to the website and what's it name the site ?
Mantaf.....mr
How to set API key in Coding please help me.
Исполнение нулевой шины не одобряю, остальное отлично.
Keep it up 😁
That's awesome project i found all the files and circuit diagram but i can't find the lines of code where i put the name of Wifi and password ,...
Please help .🤝🏻
Can u plz help me with more details nd informations for this project?
Hello. It is very cool
Why would you solder fuses?
Because I don't have any fuse holders... and I like soldering :) Hopefully, I never gonna need to replace those fuses, if the fuse blows it means something terribly went wrong, in that case the permanently soldered fuse will be the last problem to worry about. I probably don't need those fuses, I'm just paranoid that something may go wrong.
It most western countries doing this yourself is highly illegal
Nice
this o cool man..
nice
hi man how can i talk to you . i need some advices about my project
Great
How'd you make that webpage?
How to connet web server.plz help me😥
can i get the proposal for this project?
You want to be prepared for th worst case scenaio while creating an even worse scenario...
What song do you use?