Thank you! I have an MSM and you are the only RUclipsr who makes informative videos that really help novice users like myself understand how to use my MSM.🤗
Although I understood your explanation, your string lights example of identifying anchor stars for shooting a pano was great. Another great tutorial. Thank you.
Alex, you make this look so easy. You have a very easy way of describing things. Thank you. Awesome pano. Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Alex, Thank-you for the videos. I've been watching, and enjoying them, in my quest to decide which way I want to go; back to a GoTo scope, or tracker. I do have one question for you. I have noticed that you and your colleagues are quite bundled up when out making shoots. Do you take any time to acclimate your equipment to the temperatures prior to shooting? I was taught at the various star parties that I attended that acclimating your equipment for a few hours could minimize the chance of contamination. Have you experienced any such issues?
I don't do any intentional acclimation. But I do set my camera and lens is outside as soon as i park. Then while I am polar aligning it has at least some time to come to the ambient temperature. But we're talking minutes, not hours
I have never done a MW Pano. Since is early in the season, I'm going to practice. I have the Batis 18mm and Sony 35mm f1.8 which is the one I would use for my vertical panos. My question as you shoot your targets from right to left. Is it better capturing more by moving camera up to do your next group of shots from Left to Right? Or not required? Also,, when you did the Left to Right, did you just focus up by a few degrees?
Thanks, very well explained. I was curious as to what your exposure times were using the tracker, but I see that you answered the question below--2 min. I'm happy to hear that you were able to get away with that long an exposure. Your ISO was what? 800? 1200? Thanks again.
@@chasingluminance Thanks! I thought it would be somewhere around there. That's an exposure length I've often used with success (give or take a bit depending on the level of darkness) for foreground shots (on Canon 6D or 5D4). So it makes sense that it would work in the sky too--if you have the benefit of a tracker!
Greeting from Zagreb, Croatia. Excellent video. I just have one question - did you take just one shot on each pano position or several of them and then you stack them before merging them. I use to do MW panoramas using L bracket, taking 5 vertical photos on 6 positions (30 degrees between each). That was without tracker. Should I take just one photo on each position with tracker or shoud I keed doing multiple shots on each position?
Have you ever done a milky way panoramic of stacked long-exposure photos (stacked = multiple photos of the same area of sky to reduce noise)? If so, what are some of your key insights to pass along?
I have... it's hard. I'll frequently do small stacked Panos. Mayne 3 or 4 frames, but never like 9-12. It takes a TON of time. Depending on how long your exposures are you could need to shoot for several nights to get on tracked/stacked/pano with lots of frames. I'd say planning is key. Know your exposure and how many you want to stack. Then do the math to see if you have enough time
Thank you for all of your instructional videos using the MSM tracker. I just purchased my MSM and I want to try doing tracked panoramas similar to what you have done, however, I have a question which I hope isn't too dumb. When you align your sky shots (be it 30 or 50 degrees), do you turn OFF the tracker or just let it run?
After getting my MSM etc. I realized that my older Rebel EOS XS only goes to 1600. With my Samyang 135/f2. What can I really expect overall. Kinda bummed out a bit now. What am I sacrificing not having an ISO of 6400 and lower. I see some vlogs suggesting around 3000 is optimal. I also have the CoolPix 900 and that appears to be even worse ( but had not bought it with astro in mind- which is all a new ball game for me).TIA.
I like to shoot lower iso with those rebels. if you can track long enough I'd stay at iso 800 or 1600 will be fine. you'll probably need to track for 2 minutes at least to get good results, so that 135 might be hard to use on the MSM
Thanks. After watching more of your videos and looking at the values the others use on FB I realize that most use lower ISO anyway and wont be a major issue for this amateur.. I have a D300s also to play with. Thanks for the reply.
Hi, thank for the content, very impressive shots! But one thing I've missed, when using an astro-rotator like the MSM, when you have completed the first shot and move the camera to take the second one, don't you loose the alignment to the north star? How do you manage this issue? Thanks a lot and keep up the good work
So, if you have a ball head or somthing like it connecting your camera to your tracker ... you can adjust your camera without moving the tracker at all
@@chasingluminance So I’ve been watching several of your videos and about ready to pull the trigger on an MSM. My question regarding the above was answered however how long was each exposure of the sky with the rotator? And then you shot that 4 across correct?
@@johnmccaffery5186 I don't remember exactly , it was over a year ago.... I THINK it was 3-4 minutes each. I shot a row of 4, moved up and shot another row of 4 then shot the foreground with the rotator off
Have you tried switching lenses between the foreground and sky. This part really confuses me. I want to use my 50mm for the sky and a 20mm for the foreground. Maybe this is a stupid question, but how do I know many images I'm gonna need to match the sky and foreground? (Width wise) thank you!
Yeah, I've done that for sure... I've shot the sky at 24 and the foreground at 85. It works pretty well. I think the best way of judging is by using reference points.... stars or foreground object that will keep your Panos in the same area
Chase , guess I’m the dummy in this group. I’m trying to figure out how do do a tracked pano. Say a 3 minute exposure do you shoot 3 minutes then move to your next anchor point. Ron
Another great video Alex! Just a quick question. If I want to do panaroma of say constellations from light polluted sky, do I need to stack multiple exposures for each frame of the panaroma and then stitch? E.g. 10 exposures of each 8 frames of sky covering wide field to create 8 stacked+denoised frames and then stitch those 8 to create panorama.
@@chasingluminance last question..will it also work if I shoot from top to bottom?if I start from the upper right? Since the milky way is rising? Or will I be able to capture it all in one riw using an 11-16mm? Thanks. :)
@@chasingluminance thanks a lot! Sorry last question...what is your recommended e posure time per section if the panorama? I'm also thinking of stacking as my camera doesn't do well with noise...3 shots with 3mins exposure is good? Really sorry for the many many questions.
@@jordancruz9843 don't apologize, I love talking stars. I might go somthing like f2.8 2 minus iso 1600 x3 stacked... if you're going for a panorama and stacking and tracking the time can past insanely fast
Is there any indication on the polar scope which shows when the polar alignment crosshair is inserted in the perfect way? I'm just wondering since I got mine 7 days ago and did a little bit of dry testing indoors when I found out that there seems to be no way of telling if you inserted the scope the right way.
There are numbers inside the scope like a clock...a 0 a 3 a 6 and a 9... You want to make sure the 6 is pointed down just like it would be on a clock. Is that what you're getting at?
@@chasingluminance Is there any way of telling if the 6 is exactly in the right spot (down in a line which is parallel to the body of the rotator) or does that not really matter?
It doesn't REALLY matter. In my experience "close" is good enough for most situations. I think a way of making it as close as possible would be to set everything up at home where its conviemt to work on then don't take the scope out of the bracket when you move into the field
@@chasingluminance is it a good idea to turn off the tracker when panning the camera? Just seems like loosening knobs and moving the camera around then tightening again would strain the motor
Background music is annoying. But everything else is just great! Thank you Alex for this interesting video. You don't see that much of thourougy presented content on YT.
@@chasingluminance I think I have to level the plate of the ballhead and then use a other ballhead where I can pan parallel to the ground, and follow the degrees I move
@@SuperSafari6 If your camera has a built in level display, then when shooting the pano level the camera using that. Remember it is only MSM that needs to be aligned to Polaris.
To shoot a Milky Way Pano using any tracker you will need to adjust and re-level the camera because of the tracking. The camera will not be level for 1-4 minute exposures. Nothing is explained here about how to allow for that.
Thank you! I have an MSM and you are the only RUclipsr who makes informative videos that really help novice users like myself understand how to use my MSM.🤗
That's awesome! I'm so glad you're enjoying them!
I love Alex's videos - however they are far from the only excellent YT videos available, check out Alex's pals !
Although I understood your explanation, your string lights example of identifying anchor stars for shooting a pano was great. Another great tutorial. Thank you.
Love the finished product….hope I can achieve something close to this!
loving your videos many thanks, Norfolk, England, U.K
Thank you so much...now if I could only get some clear skies!
Right! That's the most frustrating part
Thank you
Great job with this video
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing your technique! Very insightful!!
Glad you enjoyed
Thank you for the videos. I feel much more confident in trying my new MSM when the sky clears
That's awesome to hear!!
@@chasingluminance Man, there's a learning curve with this. Back to school this morning with your videos
Very good and helpful video Alex!!!
😁😁 glad you enjoyed
Well, that is certainly something to aspire to. Familiar with landscape panos but never thought about how to do an astro pano. Great images!
Give it a shot! It can be frustrating, but very rewarding
Alex, you make this look so easy. You have a very easy way of describing things. Thank you. Awesome pano. Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Thank you!!! I hope it helps
very good video, thank you!
Great work!!
Thank you
Very helpful thanks. Where is the video you mentioned about how you do your editing? I can't find it.
Alex, Thank-you for the videos. I've been watching, and enjoying them, in my quest to decide which way I want to go; back to a GoTo scope, or tracker.
I do have one question for you. I have noticed that you and your colleagues are quite bundled up when out making shoots. Do you take any time to acclimate your equipment to the temperatures prior to shooting? I was taught at the various star parties that I attended that acclimating your equipment for a few hours could minimize the chance of contamination. Have you experienced any such issues?
I don't do any intentional acclimation. But I do set my camera and lens is outside as soon as i park. Then while I am polar aligning it has at least some time to come to the ambient temperature.
But we're talking minutes, not hours
@@chasingluminance Understood. Thank-you!
Great video, thanks for the tips, just got my MSM, can't wait to try it!
Get it!!
Have you tried your msm ? And do you recommend it ?
Always great info, thanks so much….got yourself a new stalke……subscriber. 😂
You are so talented!
Why thank you!!!
Great tutorial and appreciated
Thank you!
Another great video and tutorial. The final image was magnificent, and I'm looking forward to having a go myself. Thanks again!!
Excited to see it!!
Awesome video!
Thanks!
great
Been waiting for this video for a while!! Can't wait to try panos with my rotator 🧡 thank you! 😊
Let me know how it goes!
@@chasingluminance I sure will 😊😊
I have never done a MW Pano. Since is early in the season, I'm going to practice. I have the Batis 18mm and Sony 35mm f1.8 which is the one I would use for my vertical panos. My question as you shoot your targets from right to left. Is it better capturing more by moving camera up to do your next group of shots from Left to Right? Or not required? Also,, when you did the Left to Right, did you just focus up by a few degrees?
Good stuff man thanks.
thank you!!
Thanks, very well explained. I was curious as to what your exposure times were using the tracker, but I see that you answered the question below--2 min. I'm happy to hear that you were able to get away with that long an exposure. Your ISO was what? 800? 1200? Thanks again.
I don't remember exactly, but if I'm at 2 minute I'll probably be at 2.8 iso 1600
@@chasingluminance Thanks! I thought it would be somewhere around there. That's an exposure length I've often used with success (give or take a bit depending on the level of darkness) for foreground shots (on Canon 6D or 5D4). So it makes sense that it would work in the sky too--if you have the benefit of a tracker!
Greeting from Zagreb, Croatia. Excellent video.
I just have one question - did you take just one shot on each pano position or several of them and then you stack them before merging them.
I use to do MW panoramas using L bracket, taking 5 vertical photos on 6 positions (30 degrees between each). That was without tracker. Should I take just one photo on each position with tracker or shoud I keed doing multiple shots on each position?
I've done both... if I'm don't a large pano I don't stack cuz it would take forever... but if I'm just don't 3-4 frames I might stack them
Have you ever done a milky way panoramic of stacked long-exposure photos (stacked = multiple photos of the same area of sky to reduce noise)? If so, what are some of your key insights to pass along?
I have... it's hard. I'll frequently do small stacked Panos. Mayne 3 or 4 frames, but never like 9-12.
It takes a TON of time. Depending on how long your exposures are you could need to shoot for several nights to get on tracked/stacked/pano with lots of frames.
I'd say planning is key. Know your exposure and how many you want to stack. Then do the math to see if you have enough time
Nice job of explaining things....except it would be helpful to see how you had the camera set up on the MSM and show how you moved it to do the grid.
I see I failed to explain that.. several comments. It's a simple as set up normal and adjust ball head as if the msm wasn't there
Great Tutorial, thanks. For the overlap, you could use an index scale on your tripod head rather than live view.
That's true... but I find it challenging out there in the dark... maybe I should practice that
Hi, love this,many thanks for this. Do you have a link to how you blended the 2 panos together?
ruclips.net/video/TG-G2zmb2cA/видео.html
@@chasingluminance fantastic, thank you
Thank you for all of your instructional videos using the MSM tracker. I just purchased my MSM and I want to try doing tracked panoramas similar to what you have done, however, I have a question which I hope isn't too dumb. When you align your sky shots (be it 30 or 50 degrees), do you turn OFF the tracker or just let it run?
Let it run. I don't turn off the tracker once in the imaging session
After getting my MSM etc. I realized that my older Rebel EOS XS only goes to 1600. With my Samyang 135/f2. What can I really expect overall. Kinda bummed out a bit now. What am I sacrificing not having an ISO of 6400 and lower. I see some vlogs suggesting around 3000 is optimal. I also have the CoolPix 900 and that appears to be even worse ( but had not bought it with astro in mind- which is all a new ball game for me).TIA.
I like to shoot lower iso with those rebels. if you can track long enough I'd stay at iso 800 or 1600 will be fine. you'll probably need to track for 2 minutes at least to get good results, so that 135 might be hard to use on the MSM
Thanks. After watching more of your videos and looking at the values the others use on FB I realize that most use lower ISO anyway and wont be a major issue for this amateur.. I have a D300s also to play with. Thanks for the reply.
Nice video bro!
Thank you!
Hi, thank for the content, very impressive shots! But one thing I've missed, when using an astro-rotator like the MSM, when you have completed the first shot and move the camera to take the second one, don't you loose the alignment to the north star? How do you manage this issue? Thanks a lot and keep up the good work
So, if you have a ball head or somthing like it connecting your camera to your tracker ... you can adjust your camera without moving the tracker at all
@@chasingluminance thanks honestly I've answer myself just a seconds after hitting return on my question... Silly me!
That's funny. I suppose the video should show that more clearly
@@chasingluminance So I’ve been watching several of your videos and about ready to pull the trigger on an MSM. My question regarding the above was answered however how long was each exposure of the sky with the rotator? And then you shot that 4 across correct?
@@johnmccaffery5186 I don't remember exactly , it was over a year ago.... I THINK it was 3-4 minutes each. I shot a row of 4, moved up and shot another row of 4 then shot the foreground with the rotator off
Have you tried switching lenses between the foreground and sky. This part really confuses me. I want to use my 50mm for the sky and a 20mm for the foreground. Maybe this is a stupid question, but how do I know many images I'm gonna need to match the sky and foreground? (Width wise) thank you!
Yeah, I've done that for sure... I've shot the sky at 24 and the foreground at 85. It works pretty well. I think the best way of judging is by using reference points.... stars or foreground object that will keep your Panos in the same area
@@chasingluminance thank you so much! :)
Chase , guess I’m the dummy in this group. I’m trying to figure out how do do a tracked pano. Say a 3 minute exposure do you shoot 3 minutes then move to your next anchor point. Ron
Yes. This was taken with 2 minute exposures. Then move, then another exposure... and repeat
@@chasingluminance Just to clarity, the tracker is moving for the 2 minutes, then you manually move the camera for the next shot.
@@craigc7708 yes, exactly
Another great video Alex! Just a quick question. If I want to do panaroma of say constellations from light polluted sky, do I need to stack multiple exposures for each frame of the panaroma and then stitch? E.g. 10 exposures of each 8 frames of sky covering wide field to create 8 stacked+denoised frames and then stitch those 8 to create panorama.
That is an option. I know some people make stacked mosaics of DSOs
I have before stacked 3 frames per panel before... it just takes a while
Yes.
no
Where will I start if the Milkyway is rising from the horizon? I'll also be using MSM to track my shots.
Bottom right... or south east. Get the Antares area then pan left
@@chasingluminance last question..will it also work if I shoot from top to bottom?if I start from the upper right? Since the milky way is rising? Or will I be able to capture it all in one riw using an 11-16mm? Thanks. :)
Yeah, that makes sense. Should work
@@chasingluminance thanks a lot! Sorry last question...what is your recommended e posure time per section if the panorama? I'm also thinking of stacking as my camera doesn't do well with noise...3 shots with 3mins exposure is good?
Really sorry for the many many questions.
@@jordancruz9843 don't apologize, I love talking stars. I might go somthing like f2.8 2 minus iso 1600 x3 stacked... if you're going for a panorama and stacking and tracking the time can past insanely fast
Is there any indication on the polar scope which shows when the polar alignment crosshair is inserted in the perfect way? I'm just wondering since I got mine 7 days ago and did a little bit of dry testing indoors when I found out that there seems to be no way of telling if you inserted the scope the right way.
There are numbers inside the scope like a clock...a 0 a 3 a 6 and a 9...
You want to make sure the 6 is pointed down just like it would be on a clock. Is that what you're getting at?
@@chasingluminance Is there any way of telling if the 6 is exactly in the right spot (down in a line which is parallel to the body of the rotator) or does that not really matter?
It doesn't REALLY matter. In my experience "close" is good enough for most situations. I think a way of making it as close as possible would be to set everything up at home where its conviemt to work on then don't take the scope out of the bracket when you move into the field
@@chasingluminance Thank you very much!
The picture you used as an example, what was it printed on and what was the finish?
Printed using the dy - sublimation technique on aluminum. finish glossy
when you pan doesnt it throw off your polar alignment?
No sir, just loosen the ball head holding the camera, or doesn't effect the tracker
@@chasingluminance is it a good idea to turn off the tracker when panning the camera? Just seems like loosening knobs and moving the camera around then tightening again would strain the motor
hi how long did u take the exposure for the sky?
Pretty sure they were 2 minute exposures
Thank you! I had the same question. Interesting that Alex could get away with 2 min. exposures.
Background music is annoying. But everything else is just great! Thank you Alex for this interesting video. You don't see that much of thourougy presented content on YT.
Noted!
Balancing music takes some learning for sure
Thanks for your videos. I'm learning a lot from you. One question. How do you do a panorama on the MSM tracker. I've tried ones and did not work out
What problem did you run into? If you're using a ball head to attach your camera, loosen it and pan to a new position
@@chasingluminance I think I have to level the plate of the ballhead and then use a other ballhead where I can pan parallel to the ground, and follow the degrees I move
If you watch the very last time-lapse at the end of the video you'll see how i had it set up. Only 1 ball head supporting camera
@@chasingluminance thanks I’ll do that
@@SuperSafari6 If your camera has a built in level display, then when shooting the pano level the camera using that. Remember it is only MSM that needs to be aligned to Polaris.
I seem to slightly knock my move shoot move off poont anytime i touch my camera. Do you readjust befor each shot?
I do not. I'm just as careful as possible
@@chasingluminance thanks for the response! I'll make some adjustments to my setup
The title literally says with "Move Shoot Move Rotator"! Not one bit of information on using a tracker for Nightscape panoramic photography.
The one thing I don’t like about your videos is you bring up the ski resorts covid is screwing me out of visiting. Being stuck in Ga sucks!
Everything sucks. I'm sitting by these epic mountains wishing I was at the beach... grass is always generous? Or i should appreciate what i have?
What about grass? Sounds like another reason I’d trade places right now
GREENER... the grass is greener. I make videos because I can't type
@@chasingluminance trust me it’s not greener down on this side.
So what happened to Astro panorama with MOVE SHOOT MOVE rotator. You don't use it!!!
I totally did... why do you say no?
Notice how the mountains are blurry in the post processing
@@chasingluminance you don’t show any settings and what the buttons on the MSM do
@@Carlosdani17 covered that in my original set up video.
To shoot a Milky Way Pano using any tracker you will need to adjust and re-level the camera because of the tracking. The camera will not be level for 1-4 minute exposures. Nothing is explained here about how to allow for that.