I made my own DYI coping sled using similar design as Rockler coping sled which has a toggle clamp to hold the piece down as well. I found that trying to get the acrylic piece that rides the fence to be parallel to the sled is difficult to do. What I wound up doing is using the coping sled to ride the fence. To make this work I made an 3/4” inset on the sled so that only the ends of the coping sled makes contact with the router fence. When I completed it, I fine tuned it by running it again on the tablesaw to get the backing runner perpendicular to the sled/router fence. It’s working good.
Thanks Reg! We will pass that on! Patrick is one of these movie star types who never watches his own videos, and his humility prevents him from checking for kind comments like yours. SO! We will have to let him know, mate! :-)
As always good videos. I don’t think I care for this design personally... First fumbling with that adjustable hold-down... a Second the sandpaper on the sacrificial backing peace creates a void between the workpiece and I believe would cause partial tear-out... Just my thoughts, Greg
Thanks for your question, Tim. Naturally the coping sled featured in our video would not work due to its size limitations. There are two possibilities that come immediately to mind. You could simply dismantle the existing sled and, using the various pieces, simply build a larger base using MDF or plywood or the like. Otherwise, you could use a handheld router along the length of your piece using a guide to keep it straight and parallel.
What happens if your workpiece is thicker than the runners and stop block on the bottom of the jig? Seems like it might get a little tippy if the workpiece is thicker, doesn’t it?
$179.00 dollars for the coping saw. Ouch. One can make a great coping saw by just placing a decent block of squared up timber behind the timber your trying to cope.
I made my own DYI coping sled using similar design as Rockler coping sled which has a toggle clamp to hold the piece down as well. I found that trying to get the acrylic piece that rides the fence to be parallel to the sled is difficult to do. What I wound up doing is using the coping sled to ride the fence. To make this work I made an 3/4” inset on the sled so that only the ends of the coping sled makes contact with the router fence. When I completed it, I fine tuned it by running it again on the tablesaw to get the backing runner perpendicular to the sled/router fence. It’s working good.
Great presentation Patrick
Thanks Reg! We will pass that on! Patrick is one of these movie star types who never watches his own videos, and his humility prevents him from checking for kind comments like yours. SO! We will have to let him know, mate! :-)
@@timbeconaus Thankyou
+1 - Thanks
Neat jig, can never be too safe around the router!👌🏽
Great tips there too, mate. 👍🏽
Thanks Bill. We can always rely on you to be among the first to comment!
As always good videos. I don’t think I care for this design personally... First fumbling with that adjustable hold-down... a Second the sandpaper on the sacrificial backing peace creates a void between the workpiece and I believe would cause partial tear-out... Just my thoughts, Greg
Thanks Greg - both for your kind comments and your thoughts. Always appreciated mate.
Great stuff but what if the piece of wood you want to work with is wider than the sled ??
Thanks for your question, Tim. Naturally the coping sled featured in our video would not work due to its size limitations. There are two possibilities that come immediately to mind. You could simply dismantle the existing sled and, using the various pieces, simply build a larger base using MDF or plywood or the like. Otherwise, you could use a handheld router along the length of your piece using a guide to keep it straight and parallel.
@@timbeconaus Thanks.
What happens if your workpiece is thicker than the runners and stop block on the bottom of the jig? Seems like it might get a little tippy if the workpiece is thicker, doesn’t it?
$179.00 dollars for the coping saw. Ouch. One can make a great coping saw by just placing a decent block of squared up timber behind the timber your trying to cope.