Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I'm currently redoing all of my cabinet doors and drawer fronts in my house, and your jig has accelerated my workflow immensely!
Hi Colin , great little jig as always. your videos are fantastic and I love your natural and informative style. I always learn something new and useful from your videos. Would it be possible to do a video on setting up a mitre lock router bit as i never seem to be able to obtain nice tight joints.Anyway keep up the great work and i look forward to your next video. Best Regards Glenn
I was watching as you made the first pass and that little thin strip on the bottom got jammed into the second part of the fence stopping the forward motion.
I'm on my third one. The clamps push the work piece down and out of alignment. I know, lighten up on the clamp pressure. I need harder and stronger base material also.
I noticed that you added your bit extension after screwing in your 1st screw. I usually realize that I need the extension after trying to drive a screw.
Any reason you didn't use the t-track and fixings to guide the sled and make sure that there was no movement away from the fence? Nice sled, but I was a little confused that you didn't. Just about to make some of your jigs, circular saw ones and router dado one. Thanks for those too :D
Andy P you should never use your t track in conjunction with your router table fence it’s just a recipe for a disaster, you can use feather boards in your t track with a fence in place. I believe it’s because of the set up depending completely on both the fence and t track set up such as a mitre gauge to be perfectly square to one another along with the piece you are routing, if any one of the 3 were to bind or lose it’s perfect squareness to one another your not stopping the work piece or any of the components from flying apart at 100 mph. At least that is my understanding of why we don’t use fence and Ttrack setup...I personally will not do so in my table saw either.
Looks like may have stopped because the back fence on the left side is loose. Probably protruding out just a bit because the wood piece hits it and shifts it over little.
A question: after a few cuts, wouldn't the backer block be cut away to the extent that it would no longer prevent tear-out? Thank you for your video - it was great.
If the repeated cuts are consistent, the backer board should be applying support exactly where needed as the profile on the backer board is identical to what's being cut. I think this is all the support needed to minimize tear-out. Change bits or adjust height and that changes. I think it should still be fine, but have no direct experience to back up my theory. I like the idea of making one of these for each bit set and then using for setup on consequent projects. What I don't like about these simplified coping sleds is that the front edge of the base is cut away on the first cut, thereby no longer riding along the fence for the remaining cuts. You have to remember that. :D Makes me think that it should be made extra long on the back end for fence-riding purposes.
Seen others do similar to that. Don't even need to clamp the workpiece to the backer. I've seen folks make a good sized square piece with four different profiles on each side. Just make sure it's big enough to keep you away from the cutter and provide good support across the workpiece.
www.woodcraft.com/products/shaker-profile-stile-rail-router-bit-set I'm not sure if that's the same brand, but that's basically the same in all other respects. Be careful, as some versions/brands of this set don't have the shanks lined up. What I mean is that you can put the bit shank into the router where the shank "necks up", but then the bits (and their cuts) won't line up. The one I linked appears to not have that problem, but I've never used it, so buyer beware.
Love your videos Colin, I have a quick question.. This might be a dumb one but I’ve always wondered why a coping sled is necessary for those type of routes? Couldn’t you just use the miter gauge with an extended fence and backing piece just as well?
For a straight cut like this either one would work. I think a coping sled would be more versatile for example if you want to do small piece template routing while keeping your fingers safely away from the cutter.
This jig is tied to your specific router bit. If you buy a new router bit, you have to replace the jig. Have you made a coping jig with a replaceable backer board?
On your coping sled. I have been trying to find those clamps and there's nothing in my area that has those. Matter of fact they said they've never seen them before. Where do you get them if you do not mind me asking?
Personally I think that tips and jigs are very useful. Sometimes more useful than seeing somebody making something. Many RUclips makers show you making something and they do not explain well, or not at all, no or not good plans available, etc. This is one of the best woodworking channels because everything is explained very well.
I've have got a ton of requests for jigs and tips, so that's why they've been the majority of my content. I do have a few projects videos in the works! Hopefully, I'll have time to complete them soon!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I'm currently redoing all of my cabinet doors and drawer fronts in my house, and your jig has accelerated my workflow immensely!
Thank you all the tips you have given me in 2022 and have a good new year
Another name for this jig could be a coping mechanism ;) Thanks for the video.
Simple to build sled which is very useful. Really like all your jigs Colin.
Nice simple jig, love those self centering bits, work great on setting door hinges also.
Thanks, Tom!
Great jig I just made one works great thank you.
nice jig design Colin and a lot safer when working with the router table.
Man, I need to get one of those self-centering drill bits! what a great idea! By the way, great video, keep up the great work :D
Hi Colin , great little jig as always. your videos are fantastic and I love your natural and informative style. I always learn something new and useful from your videos. Would it be possible to do a video on setting up a mitre lock router bit as i never seem to be able to obtain nice tight joints.Anyway keep up the great work and i look forward to your next video. Best Regards Glenn
Awesome great idea 💡 💯👍😎
Great video, you would make a very good woodworking tutor 👍🏻
Thanks for watching Christian!
That self-centring drill bit looks very useful - I can't centre a screw hole to save my life.
Yes, it comes in handy! Thanks for watching.
No one can. That's why they made it. They usually come in a pack of three sizes. Well worth the price
I’m sorry but how is it considered “self-centering”? Is this the Freud adjustable tongue & groove double bit set?
Very neat Sled Colin :) Thank you ॐ
I was watching as you made the first pass and that little thin strip on the bottom got jammed into the second part of the fence stopping the forward motion.
Yes, I spotted this as well, you can see the fence trying to move.
It didn't look like the fence was tightened. The washer on the screw is loose and vibrating (if you look closely).
Good one Colin
Thanks Ty!
ty for your videos..... great
I'm on my third one. The clamps push the work piece down and out of alignment. I know, lighten up on the clamp pressure. I need harder and stronger base material also.
I noticed that you added your bit extension after screwing in your 1st screw. I usually realize that I need the extension after trying to drive a screw.
Thanks Colin...Happy New year...rr
I have a topic for a future video for you. How and where do you store all the jigs you make so they don't fill your shop and you can find them again.
lol ... that's been asked a few times now! Truth me, I'm running out of room!!!
Any reason you didn't use the t-track and fixings to guide the sled and make sure that there was no movement away from the fence? Nice sled, but I was a little confused that you didn't.
Just about to make some of your jigs, circular saw ones and router dado one. Thanks for those too :D
Andy P you should never use your t track in conjunction with your router table fence it’s just a recipe for a disaster, you can use feather boards in your t track with a fence in place. I believe it’s because of the set up depending completely on both the fence and t track set up such as a mitre gauge to be perfectly square to one another along with the piece you are routing, if any one of the 3 were to bind or lose it’s perfect squareness to one another your not stopping the work piece or any of the components from flying apart at 100 mph. At least that is my understanding of why we don’t use fence and Ttrack setup...I personally will not do so in my table saw either.
nice video thanks for sharing
You're Welcome!
Goed werk vriend 👍
Thank You!
Looks like may have stopped because the back fence on the left side is loose. Probably protruding out just a bit because the wood piece hits it and shifts it over little.
A question: after a few cuts, wouldn't the backer block be cut away to the extent that it would no longer prevent tear-out? Thank you for your video - it was great.
If the repeated cuts are consistent, the backer board should be applying support exactly where needed as the profile on the backer board is identical to what's being cut. I think this is all the support needed to minimize tear-out. Change bits or adjust height and that changes. I think it should still be fine, but have no direct experience to back up my theory. I like the idea of making one of these for each bit set and then using for setup on consequent projects. What I don't like about these simplified coping sleds is that the front edge of the base is cut away on the first cut, thereby no longer riding along the fence for the remaining cuts. You have to remember that. :D Makes me think that it should be made extra long on the back end for fence-riding purposes.
nice jig...have you simply clamped a board to the right along side the one you are routing to achieve a similar result? what would be the pros cons?
Seen others do similar to that. Don't even need to clamp the workpiece to the backer. I've seen folks make a good sized square piece with four different profiles on each side. Just make sure it's big enough to keep you away from the cutter and provide good support across the workpiece.
Great video.....What router bits were you using? Where did you buy them? thanks
www.woodcraft.com/products/shaker-profile-stile-rail-router-bit-set
I'm not sure if that's the same brand, but that's basically the same in all other respects.
Be careful, as some versions/brands of this set don't have the shanks lined up. What I mean is that you can put the bit shank into the router where the shank "necks up", but then the bits (and their cuts) won't line up. The one I linked appears to not have that problem, but I've never used it, so buyer beware.
Love your videos Colin, I have a quick question.. This might be a dumb one but I’ve always wondered why a coping sled is necessary for those type of routes? Couldn’t you just use the miter gauge with an extended fence and backing piece just as well?
For a straight cut like this either one would work. I think a coping sled would be more versatile for example if you want to do small piece template routing while keeping your fingers safely away from the cutter.
Thank you I damn love it.
Why not a bolt or two for the t-slot?
Yo necesito dos coping sled como conseguirlos
I think you got hung up because the router fence on the left side was loose. You can see the washer rattling when the router was on.
This jig is tied to your specific router bit. If you buy a new router bit, you have to replace the jig. Have you made a coping jig with a replaceable backer board?
On your coping sled. I have been trying to find those clamps and there's nothing in my area that has those. Matter of fact they said they've never seen them before. Where do you get them if you do not mind me asking?
Larry Craft try harbor freight if you're in the U. S.
@@reaux5351 a very well know action site is where i got mine from
Little place called Amazon...type in Toggle clamp for butt cheeks
So many jigs and tip videos lately. Any plan on making something soon?
Personally I think that tips and jigs are very useful.
Sometimes more useful than seeing somebody making something.
Many RUclips makers show you making something and they do not explain well, or not at all, no or not good plans available, etc.
This is one of the best woodworking channels because everything is explained very well.
I've have got a ton of requests for jigs and tips, so that's why they've been the majority of my content. I do have a few projects videos in the works! Hopefully, I'll have time to complete them soon!
WoodWorkWeb Got ya! Looking forward to them!
This is bad design. The toggle clamps will push the thin base (bend)
away from them and this will ruin the precision of the jig
Callllmmmmm. Don't have to be manic to be a successful youtuber. Take Paul Sellers for example. Other than that great video!