Interesting, this is this first video I have seen of tree bark dry wall mud texturing. Thanks for the video and idea of dry wall texturing style. 🌳Next palm tree bark dry wall texturing .🌴
To be honest Joshua, above all the creative comb videos donning my channel, this pattern was highly called for. And you know what? I made this video. Thanks again for commenting have a great day
Great work..!!!! Thank you for this video. I am getting texture wall done in my restaurant. I m gona show this video to the workers. It will help them a lot. Thank you once again.
+Travis Brown Thank you Travis. There is a guy I have been tutoring online, he's from Canada and have been working creatively with texturing comb tool patterns, and he tells me there is no one that does this for over 100 miles circumference of his area, and interest is already piquing for his work/finishes. Have a nice day, thanks for commenting
Just sent hubby out to get the supplies we need to do this in our living room. We're super excited! We love in a double wide home, and the sheets of "drywall" are connected with batten (sp?) strips... I HATE them! So we want to remove thoae, and apply this technique to the walls to hide the cracks between the "drywall" sheets. :)
+Heather Chambers Hi there Heather, a cunning idea & I sincerely hope you make your hubby a loverly cup of tea when he comes back from the DIY store. I would love if yet us know how your task goes, and the roller you used to make the tree bark, plus which texture you found the easiest to work with. The joints between the wallboards will still need taping as the texture finish will cover certain bad aspects of a surface, but any cracks/joints will still come through once the texture has dried. (Please accept my appologies if you already know this, and if you do not, I have a video in my yt collection focusing on taping cracks prior to texturing) so joints and cracks still require the correct preparation first And as you already know, to make a decent tree bark texture, the surface does have to be flat (unlike some other texture patterns) and reasonably smooth, so the roller glides down the wall, unfettered One last thing, in my latest video just uploaded to youtube ruclips.net/video/A7FmQPq-ORg/видео.html I am giving the home made roller that I made, away for free, the competition ends last day of April. If you are interested or know someone who is, just go to our new fb page 'creative ceiling wall textures' and make a post (the competition rules are there on the page) Thank you for commenting Heather, I really appreciate it and I hope you and your hubby do a fantastic job Have a great day
+Dale Ovenstone Thanks for the reply! The seams between the boards are very tight... Almost impossible to get mud between them. So hopefully everything will go okay without taping, as I didn't have him get any tape! We shall see how things go. ;) I saw your new video on the DIY roller for this technique, and that's what we're going to do too since he couldn't find a wallpaper seam roller at the hardware store. If I can figure it out, I'll share our results with you once we're finished. :)
Used this technique in my bathroom remodel. Used 1.5 inch PVC for the hard roller. Inside corners and narrow areas are difficult. Thank you for the instruction.
Thank you Sushmita, for your comment that is really kind of you. So long as there is a quality flexible material specifically designed for creating such fine textures, the texturing comb tools & rollers availability, the imagination of the practitioner + the enthusiasm + the tenacity to master an enjoyable art, and with plenty of dedication thrown in for good measure, will surely take care of the rest. Have a great day
Hi, Excellent video. Am interested in using this method in our home. I can't seem to find the roller that you are using. Could you please supply a link to the roller that you are using. Would be very much appreciated. Thanks
Ceseme, usually drywall compound is texture for interior ceilings & walls, there are various types for creating patterned finishes, such as in the UK, Wondertex & Artex are 2 brand name texture powders that are both capable for the job
Nice work. is it the lighting, or is that mud yellow? I would imagine you had to really water down that compound to be able to roll it on like that. Thanks for sharing!
The lighting did affect the colour of the texture shown when I saw the video outcome, I thought I was wearing yellow tinted contact lenses. I think I may even have a yellow glitch in my camcorder. For the tree bark texture finish (or any other texture finish, in fact,) that is the greatness of texture compounds specifically manufactured to adorn ceilings & walls, made specifically for the job, which work adequately through a wide spectrum of the materials, (when mixed with water,) consistencies, depending on what pattern is chosen. Various tools such as combs and rollers and sponges and designated texturing tools ect (including the fingers (known as a 'medusa' finish)) can be used to create a plethora of creative patterns, as the consistency will fluctuate depending on desired textured pattern to furnish interior walls and ceilings. As it happens, I published a video explaining consistencies of texture on my youtube channel quite some time ago, but I get a lot of folk sharing their disappointments and frustrations and I'm not really a counsellor, so I don't openly share the video link. Thank you for commenting. Have a great day
Absolutely love it. I even liked it before you knocked it back. It has a more post modern feel. I cant wait to try it. What is the material applied to the walls, please? I've never heard of 'texture' material. Would plaster work sufficiently?
Hi there Veronica, thank you for ALL your comments I hope you found the videos informative. If you need texturing questions answered do let me know I may be abll to help out. Have a great day
Very good. Here in Brazil there is no roller like this one. But I can make with another type. The question is: You dont show the edge painting. How to paint the edge, making the texture, so the roller dont reach the edge ? I hope you understand my question.
Hello Ricardo. I will make a video in the near future showing the finish around the edges. Basically, 1 1" paint brush is run across the top and bottom of the wall, to complete a neat finish. I hope this helps. Have a great day
Hi Dale when you mention elastic bands, if you were to use elastic bands on the flat roller how would you have them on the roller? I take it you wouldn't have the bands criss crossing over each other, you'd just have them straight around the roller? thanks! Great video by the way and thanks very much for your help
Hi Brian, thanks for commenting To be upfront about the elastic bands placed onto a flat roller; Many texturer's believed that by placing elastic bands onto their flat roller, would create a really thick, prominent tree bark wall texture The elastic bands were sometimes criss-crossing each other, but were placed around the roller, as per your observation in your comment... But the same kind of effects could also be achieved without using any bands on your flat roller... How this is achieved is; If the mixed texture was of a thicker consistency once applied to the wall, and even laid on as a thicker coat, then when you draw your flat roller over this surface, would create a really proud, thick texture. Where as if your mixture was of a watery'r consistency and once placed onto the wall, would create a less visible and dribblier patten So as you see, the desired pattern effect outcome to make a tree bark (or broken leather, or a stillpe etc), would depend on the thickness of the consistency, and how thick you lay that mixture onto the surface I hope this explains the elastic band myth, and really, to create the desired effect will take practice on an inconspicuous area until you reach the desired outcome you wish to achieve I hope tis helps please let me know Regards, Dale
Hi there Brian, thanks for commenting There are products called 'textured finishes, or, texture coatings, designed especially for creating artex, or drywall patterns onto ceilings & walls This is the material I used, and certainly not paint or emulsion The colour you see on the video is just a light effect, but in reality, the texture coating I am applying is a 'off-white' colour As for the consistency, on my channel here, I have a few videos where I mix to the correct consistency for the pattern desired Hope you check them out and discover what you are seeking Have a great day
Hello . I am Persian language and I live in Iran. This type of color has recently become popular in Iran. If you can explain the different types of colors and how to use them, or if you can make a video, I'm very grateful. Kazemi from Iran
Hi there, thanks for commenting. The colour of the texture in this video, is kind of pale yellow, because of the powerful spotlight I am using to showcase the video. The original texture colour (without painting it) is actually 'off white.' I hope this helps please let me know Regards, Dale
Thank you for answering you ... But my question was about the type of color or texture (such as acrylic or base oil), or its type. Also, does the manufacturer of this type export, export or export to other countries? And what other products does it produce? Many thanks
The paint is water-based (EMULSION) because it is used to paint on interior ceilings and walls. Oil-based paint is normally used on painting woodwork, and sometimes metal, inside houses. Also, the texture is water-based. Like a cream coloured powder, then add water and mix to the consistency for the texture pattern required. This is made to make patterns on ceilings and walls inside the house Let me know if this answered your question Regards, Dale
Excellent ..... In Iran, this color is made of texture (dough shape) and only its acrylic type, and unfortunately it is not good quality. I and some friends try to enter Iran better quality and brand. But just from this color or powder model for the walls of the houses ..... with the tools associated with it
Munir, this is an interior finish called texture compound cannot be used outside. I have seen the similar pattern made with a cement-based mix for exterior walls
hi i like how it looks when you have it, but my house was built with this texture and it looks terrible, i really need to know how i would get rid of it? can you help? all i can think of is to scrap it all off and then sand it down
ThePiacentini Hi there. As of the building regs for health and safety, it is wise/essential/regulations to get a sample of texture checked by a reputable company dealing with such issues, as the old stuff may have contained asbestos, and removing/disturbing the texture coating could release particles. With that said, sometime a textured surface is difficult to scrape as the copious amounts of paint applied over the years makes scraping difficult. Some texture is applied thick (as in your bark pattern) & will possibly require the services of a plasterer. Let me know how you get on
Will be something like drywall compound. Try rolling standard plaster on your walls and your going to have a nightmare on your hands! Plaster is generally applied with a hawk and trowel. At least here in the UK anyway.
Khalid, my dear, do not be confused for what you see in the demonstration is what you get and I have tried to make the task for creating this pattern as straight forward as possible. Thanks for commenting. Have a great day
Nice one Javier. Over the years I have seen some attempts where folk have used plaster/gypsum, and it is just not the same rto work with for creating patterns, so best not try. Thanks for watching my texturing videos and for commenting. Have a great day
Hi Dale can you please help - I have tried this but even though I get the correct pattern, the gap/ width between the bark effect patterns is less than the width on your pattern. Its almost as if my pattern is like a mini replica of what it should be. Can you advise how I can use the roller to get wider patterns? thanks
Hi David. Thanks for reaching out to me via email I have only just now read your comment here. Please comment back let me know how you got on Have a great day
Keep trying, you may have to experiment with a few compounds before you find your favourite. The mud I use mainly is a texture specifically designed to tape up joints prior to texturing, caulking out uneven surfaces, also feather edges besides finishing all manner of texture patterns. I mix the texture from powder, and is specifically designed for creating textured finishes on interior walls & ceilings. The actual product is available in the UK, currently, and is called WONDERTEX. That is my personal preference. Another popular brand is a texture called ARTEX. It has been around for many many years in the UK, and as wondertex,, does the job nicely. Many texture's in US & Canada use specific texturing brands for creating intricate texture finishes on interior ceilings & walls (using combs or rollers or brushes etc) and they have their favourites too, but I do not know where you are from? Below is a link to an article with more information which may be useful inspired-to-write.hubpages.com/hub/Which-Drywall-Texturing-COMB-Tools-Art-Effects-Compound-Mud-to-Use-USA-CANADA Thank you for commenting Joe, have a nice day
Hi there No Name. Basically using a 1.5" - 2" paint brush to lightly brush the edges. I have been asked this question so many times that I am in the process of uploading a video demonstration, because my typing fingers are basically knackered answering the same question. Then again, my fault I should have showed the process in the tree-bark texture video uploaded here. Thanks for commenting have a great day
Hey Dale, I love the tree bark texture and want to recreate it on my accent wall. The only problem is that I can't find that roller anywhere. I've tried looking for it online and in stores with no luck. By chance can you send me the website that you ordered it from?
+Cassie Miller Hi Cassie. The roller is actually called a '7.5" wallpaper seam roller' and is made of a very hard foam. I should soon be making a short video showing how to make one at home using plastic plumbing pipe and a small roller, these materials/tools may be available in major DIY stores worldwide
+Cassie Miller Hi there Cassie. I have just made a short video demonstration (link below) showing how to make a tree bark wall texture roller applicator at home using obtainable (hopefully) materials which are cheap to purchase. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting. Regards, Dale ruclips.net/video/A7FmQPq-ORg/видео.html
Heather In the olden days we used to create this pattern on ceiling beams in pubs to create a wooden effect. Play around with the consistency of the mixture and the depth of how you apply it. You may find it often creates more of an untidy 'stipple effect.; Until you get all the above mentioned factors correct Practice on smaller area until all feels right Let us know how you get on Thanks for commenting Have a great day
Zeyno, thanks for your comment. The material is called texture compound. Sometimes called ARTEX in the UK, or drywall texture in the US. It is not a plaster or a paint, but often it comes as a powder, where you mix with water to create a consistency desirable depending on what pattern you intend making on ceilings and walls. I hope this helps please let me know
@@Artexing i have searched on internet but couldn't find as texture compound but I have found as joint compound and translated it into my languaged and bought it. I hope i have bought the correct one. I m gonna try this on my sister's home's wall. I hope I can do it:) Thank you sooooo much ❤
Zeyno, some folk have used joint compound for interior walls, as they could not obtain texture compound. So long as it is not too fast drying and you can mix it to the required consistency to create the texture you wish to make, then give it a go. Don't forget to seal / prime your walls before hand, and let this dry, to help diminish as much porosity as possible, so that the compound does not dry too fast into the surface once you place it onto the wall. Also, my texturing guide, 'Nifty Tips n Tricks of a Professional Drywall Texture Practitioner' is available on kindle for more information, and sometimes is free to download there. Please let me know how you get on at your sisters. And best of luck
where can you get those smooth rubber roller? Ive called every hardware store around here cannott find. where can they be ordered on the internet? would a foam roller work? Thank you!
The paint is for interior ceilings and walls. Only problem is, you need to take caution when painting a porous surface such as new plaster or texture for the first time, to diminish the chance the paint has from flaking off the wall / ceiling. I am about to upload a new vid demonstrating this, 'painting new plastered & textured ceilings & walls' Thanks for your comment have a nice day
Hi there samdean77 thanks for commenting. Here goes the answer to your question 1: As long as the wall is an interior wall (because this kind of texture is for interior usage) 2: As long as the plaster is solid and stable to the wall (For any further decorating finishes & purposes, any background surface has to be sound first) 3: As long as you seal/prime the wall prior to texturing (To seal/prime the wall aids in diminishing porosity of the texture material, and helps the texture to bond/stick to the wall/surface) I hope this helps, please let me know. And by the way, thanks for watching. Hope you have a great day
Thank you so much! I was waiting for your comment to start texturing tomorrow. But to clarify (as it is important, please bare with me) I have primed the cement wall with PVA and put the first coat on. The second coat of plaster I did not use PVA, should I have? And finally, with the texture tree bark being the third layer, do I want to PVA it ontop of the second layer plaster before applying texture? Thanks so much in advance, Sam
You are most welcome Sam, I hope I can help further. Now this is going to take a bit of explaining, but I got sausages roasting in the oven so I got a few minutes before they are ready. Just to clarify your queries 1: To add 2 coats/sets, of skim plaster is normal. You have PVA'd the concrete and then plastered, and for the second set of plaster, as long as the first coat of plaster has not dried too much, you can skim over the second coat, that should be fine (Normally the second coat/skim of plaster will adhere to the first coat/skim as long as there is sufficient moisture still left in the first coat, which thus reacts with the sound layer, present there, and makes the 2 bond, but the first coat has gone enough dry so it is 'touch dry' that is, when you can barely mark it with your fingers, but it still looks wet enough, and has not gone solid, then second coat/skim on top of that.) 2: Allow all your skimmed/plastered area dry completely prior to texturing. All the damp marks has disappeared first. (You may find when you skim an outwards, interior wall, that will take more time to dry than when you skimmed an 'interior, or partitioned' wall, especially in the cold weather.) Check out any dodgy parts or blown plaster you may think that may not have adhered, as per your concerns, and then if you find you have fkd up, hey ho don't worry be happy we all make mistakes, then remove the bad/loose plaster, prime/seal as necessary, and make good and let it all dry. 3: You are about to seal a very porous surface. You have to, prior to texturing any pattern. The PVA solution carries enough water/moisture, enabling a sufficient layer of bonding/sealing, solution to 'key' into the plaster, (acting as a 'solid/sound' base for more coats of sealer/primer to adhere to, eventually diminishing even more porosity enabling a practitioner to attempt/complete, texturing.) Follow product manufacturers recommendations contained on packaging, which ever building material you use, for the type of surface to be sealed/bonded//primed. Check this vid, which explains in-depth ruclips.net/video/Q3bYVMegSpM/видео.html I can smell my roasted sausages now, Mmm Anyway Sam, I hope this helps please let me know Have a great day, and thanks for commenting and viewing my video
Thank you so much, Dale! I'm in Vietnam and it's a bit difficult asking questions at the local hardware store. :) Good advice in a pinch and I appreciate your time in responding, sir!
Hi there Bo Haggin, thanks for commenting. The edges and corners I use a 1" (inch) paint brush to run around the edges and perimeter whilst the texture is still wet. If you notice on many of my other texture videos, I use the same technique to tidy up the edges one the texture pattern is completed. For results with the bark roller, as you cannot seem to get the roller too near to the ceiling edge (because of the diameter of the roller)...better still, I'll be uploading a video soon containing/showing the information I am attempting to describe here. Have a great 2018
+Charlie Renteria A great, juicy question and one I get many email enquiries about. If you are curious about creating beautiful eye-catching textures on ceilings and walls, be subscribed stay updated as the 'why' you ask needs quite a bit of explaining possibly via a video demo or an article, in the near future But I can say right now, where the tree bark texture pattern is concerned the actual circumference of the finishing roller matters alot, which determines how close the tool could get to the edge (ceiling/wall). You are right But that does not really interfere with the finish as the bark roller you should use to create a tree bark texture has an adequate circumference that would get the finished texture to nearest, where it needs to be. It doesn't need to be patterned to the edge, just texture blended in to finish In a few texturing videos uploaded on youtube (comb work vids and demonstrations) I cover how to finish a variety of texture patterns such as comb mud effects, broken leather pattern, stipple, knockdown, which also applies the same method for finishing edges of tree bark texture I wanted to create a youtube channel covering all aspects of creative textures including preparation and repairs and these questions, answered, are there somewhere Use a one inch wide soft paintbrush doused occasionally in water to FINISH all kinds of textured edges; ceiling, wall, top, bottom, sides. The length should be around 1.5" (the hairy bit) In Fact to have around 3 different sizes (hairy bits) 1" wide paintbrushes, could be even handier on the job As finished textures is a form of visual art, the final product the practitioner should be 'very' proud of, no matter a pro offering to someone else, diy'ers doing for themselves, friends, family. Using a 'finishing' brush is 'just another new tool to get used to' and is just as important for the completed / presented finish, as each of the other tools used for texturing A few slabs and dabs here and there, a bit of time with the texture and the tools and you'll be fine But don't run off and go texturing yet there's more As with DIY, Professional Texture Practitioners / finishers, the all importance applies Thorough understanding of material being being used (to experiment with a few textures, sealers / primers until you find what you are happy working with.) Good knowledge of a surface to be textured (preparation, key, and I talk about it a lot in my other videos, it's that important for successful ceiling / wall textures) Conditions (humidity of room & surface to be textured onto) Plus Physical practice As for a tree bark texture, if one were heavy handed drawing the paintbrush over/through the texture (after you have created the pattern and close to the edge) if done wrong it would look an awful mess. But mostly it cannot be avoided, turn to the 1" paintbrush and let creativity continue and texture along complete an entire wall Thanks for commenting I hope this helps. Have a great day
Hey Valerie, just give it a go there are plenty of tutorials here on yt or you can confide in me and I will help all I can. Confidence grows with action taken I'm sure you know this and excuse me for saying. When I first started creative texturing I was not confident in the finished product, or even how to do it proper, but I knew I had to keep on doing until it become easier and better looking. Heck, I even remember many years ago when I was a mere fetus (before your time) I couldn't walk or I couldn't talk back then and I used to wriggle around the floor gurgling shitting and being sick and stuff and I remember thinking sod this, I need to progress and I discovered my capabilities and just went for it anyway. Yes I fell, and yes I gurgled some random words that meant nothing to anyone only myself, but I persisted all the same. All the best Valerie. Thanks for commenting. Have a great day
In this video I am using a product called 'WONDERTEX premier 5 texturing powder.Some of my other videos I use a product caller 'ARTEX' texturing powder. These texturing products are available in the UK, (& a tad further afield.)There are also some great products for creating texture patterns in other countries; and the question would be,'which country are you from and what texture product do you prefer for creating texture patterns???
I couldn't find a smooth roller either so what I did was to get a piece of 2 inch pvc pipe and inserted a paint roller with 1 1/4 inch nap. I am wondering how do you get that tree bark effect all the way to the ceiling joint .
+Lee Mullen For best results, to get the pattern as near to the ceiling line, it helps if there is cornice/coving inserted onto the ceiling/wall edge. This allows you to be able to push the roller (where the texture has been laid onto the wall) nearer to the edge. Also, if you notice in the video, the roller that I am using to make the bark pattern is rather fat in diameter, whereas the original bark roller that was manufactured by a company, was rather slim, which is ideal for getting nearer to edges (bottom of wall and top of wall.) When using the narrower pipe placed onto a small paint roller, this is ideal. I have actually purchased the materials to show how to make a home made, cheap bark roller, an d will be posting a video tutorial soon
Hi dale. I have tiles on one of the walls in restaurant. But I want to get texture done on it. Workers here are telling me that all tiles should be removed because it won't hold pop on it. But what if we scrap the tile surface or give dents on tile . Then is it possible?
Hi there. It would be recommended to remove the tiles first, and make the background sound and secure with plaster, etc, prior to texturing. In the past, I have plastered (skimmed) over tiles (at the customers request). I have degreased the surface, and then put on a 'neat' PVA sealer, which acts as a glue, left to dry, and double skimmed the surface with plaster afterwards. For texturing, the background must be reasonably smooth (depending on the texture finish required) and sealed/primed (to diminish as much porosity as possible. For the tiles to be removed first, then wall made good and then textured, ensures no comebacks (loose tiles/greasy surface etc) later after the job is completed. Thanks for your comment, I hope it all goes well for you. Have a great day. Regards, Dale
Gary Henson Hi there Gary. I have no pictures of this pattern painted as this is only a demonstration wall. Is there any particular question relating to the bark pattern that you are not sure about? Thanks for sharing this video. Regards, Dale
Gary Henson Hey Gary hope you are having a good day, I am making my next video with the complete wall that has been painted (faux like, two tone) this is just an experiment but will give more of an idea what a painted wall should resemble. Regards, Dale
I've searched for hours for a smooth roller...on the internet and I come up with nothing. Could someone please post a web address or company who makes a "smooth roller". Thank you
+Harry Kellogg www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/f/FDDWALLRC/ here is an example 7" hard foam wallpaper seam roller as I have used similar for making bark textures. Hope this helps, Harry
+Harry Kellogg This kind of product seems to be in abundant supply in the UK and Europe but not in the US. I wonder why. We use wallpaper here. The only firm I could find that would ship to the US wants to charge $33 for one $3 roller cover. I'll keep looking.
+Harry Kellogg That is very unfortunate Harry, I hope you find one soon. One viewer actually used a 9" paint roller, and he placed a round plastic pipe (plumbing) over the roller to make it smooth and flat, job done. Another alternative could be to remove the hairs/material, off an ordinary paint roller, and see if that helps. Years ago the actual (7" smooth hard roller) was for sale in decorators shops here in the UK, & made specifically for creating the texture bark, but not any more. Hope you find a smooth roller for bark, or some manufacturer could be reading this, and supply them at competitive cost, worldwide?
+Harry Kellogg www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8SWBW8/ref=asc_df_B00L8SWBW83870543?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=merbethomgarbhg-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B00L8SWBW8&ascsubtag=878298355 Here is a 6" version, still good for the job
Dutta Barun. You have watched my videos and even taken the time to comment, for that I love you like a brother, and I may even send you a keyboard where the 'e' digit is intact. Either that, or you are calling me nic when my name is actually Dale, or maybe your names not really Dutta, afterall, but nic, really??? Only messing. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Have a great day
I wish I would of came across this video before I tried to match my original walls. I did it with bunched up newspaper, it was okay but not as good as this way.
+Rob Bobcat Hi there Rob, thanks for commenting. I usually use a 1" paint brush and run this along all the skirtings and ceiling lines. I notice I left that part out of the video so I should soon do a short vid on finishing the texture bark. Have a great day
The problem here is this is the exact opposite of most tree bark... In that the thin lines are raised instead of troughs between chunks of bark. For wall texture I guess its ok but certainly isnt ideal for creating imitation tree bark imho
DevCreates Unfortunately some attempts of bark texture look dreadful. And as a heavy wall covering containing sharp spiky finishes, could cause damage to furniture flesh and clothing. When done correctly and laced back, or knocked down, the pattern does look nice, and if you decide to get rid of any old texture adorning walls or ceilings, please make sure you have the old texture checked out by a repetuble operator before disturbing the compound
I can understand my Mexican coworkers better then him. And he and I speak English. I guess I been in "Texico" way too long. It took awhile but their stomach rubbed off. but it took awhile. Took my brother and me a year to figure out that everytime we told them to do something they would say "coma-caca"...once I dated a Mexican girl she said it meant "Eat shit". so next time they said it. my brother said "No Rudy. You eat shit" they all had a laugh because for the longest time it was their inside joke. Man were we a couple of pendejos.
Yes, joint compound, but here in the UK there is specifically produced texture (powder) for creating finishes as well as prepping joints/joins between plasterboards. And a massive muahahaha to you Veronica.
That is fantastic news Veronica, and the Carpenters were a great group also, you have inspiring taste in music yourself. Thanks for commenting, have a great day
+Dale Ovenstone Hello my brother, I unfortunately do not answer the English language, but since I wrote you told a great job and I wish you a beautiful success
You are so kind. Sorry about the language mixup i did translate but I couldn't figure out the meaning of your message I do appolgise. I wish you a great day and every success for your future. Thank you again for commenting. Have a great day fellow creator
Interesting, this is this first video I have seen of tree bark dry wall mud texturing. Thanks for the video and idea of dry wall texturing style. 🌳Next palm tree bark dry wall texturing .🌴
To be honest Joshua, above all the creative comb videos donning my channel, this pattern was highly called for. And you know what? I made this video. Thanks again for commenting have a great day
True master of his craft
Now I'm blushing :-) Thanks for commenting have a great day
Great work..!!!! Thank you for this video. I am getting texture wall done in my restaurant. I m gona show this video to the workers. It will help them a lot. Thank you once again.
That is great news Kripaali I wouldn't mind popping in for a bite, on the house, hopefully. Have a great day
stunning. a big hats off from a Canadian taper/mudder, you don't see that kind of finesse and artistry here
+Travis Brown Thank you Travis. There is a guy I have been tutoring online, he's from Canada and have been working creatively with texturing comb tool patterns, and he tells me there is no one that does this for over 100 miles circumference of his area, and interest is already piquing for his work/finishes. Have a nice day, thanks for commenting
Just sent hubby out to get the supplies we need to do this in our living room. We're super excited! We love in a double wide home, and the sheets of "drywall" are connected with batten (sp?) strips... I HATE them! So we want to remove thoae, and apply this technique to the walls to hide the cracks between the "drywall" sheets. :)
+Heather Chambers Hi there Heather, a cunning idea & I sincerely hope you make your hubby a loverly cup of tea when he comes back from the DIY store. I would love if yet us know how your task goes, and the roller you used to make the tree bark, plus which texture you found the easiest to work with.
The joints between the wallboards will still need taping as the texture finish will cover certain bad aspects of a surface, but any cracks/joints will still come through once the texture has dried. (Please accept my appologies if you already know this, and if you do not, I have a video in my yt collection focusing on taping cracks prior to texturing) so joints and cracks still require the correct preparation first
And as you already know, to make a decent tree bark texture, the surface does have to be flat (unlike some other texture patterns) and reasonably smooth, so the roller glides down the wall, unfettered
One last thing, in my latest video just uploaded to youtube ruclips.net/video/A7FmQPq-ORg/видео.html I am giving the home made roller that I made, away for free, the competition ends last day of April. If you are interested or know someone who is, just go to our new fb page 'creative ceiling wall textures' and make a post (the competition rules are there on the page)
Thank you for commenting Heather, I really appreciate it and I hope you and your hubby do a fantastic job
Have a great day
+Dale Ovenstone Thanks for the reply! The seams between the boards are very tight... Almost impossible to get mud between them. So hopefully everything will go okay without taping, as I didn't have him get any tape! We shall see how things go. ;) I saw your new video on the DIY roller for this technique, and that's what we're going to do too since he couldn't find a wallpaper seam roller at the hardware store. If I can figure it out, I'll share our results with you once we're finished. :)
Heather Chambers That is fantastic and thank you for viewing the new vid. Good luck with the roller making too (please let me know how you get on)
Used this technique in my bathroom remodel. Used 1.5 inch PVC for the hard roller. Inside corners and narrow areas are difficult.
Thank you for the instruction.
Welcome Clint
This takes me back to my childhood. Due a comeback…
I like your style, Edward. Thanks for commenting
Wow- very cool.
Nice to see it's simple once you develop the touch.
Thanks for sharing!
hey, thank you for commenting have a great day
Excellent work! You also did a good job of getting back with the comments. Keep it up.
Brilliant! I am so doing this in our living room! Thanks much for the video.
+Heather Chambers Thank you for commenting Heather, you are most welcome. hope your treebark texture feature wall turns out fine
Dale Ovenstone ggge
Heather Chambers 0
Jawdropping.... Never ever imagined that these textures could be achieved thus! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you Sushmita, for your comment that is really kind of you. So long as there is a quality flexible material specifically designed for creating such fine textures, the texturing comb tools & rollers availability, the imagination of the practitioner + the enthusiasm + the tenacity to master an enjoyable art, and with plenty of dedication thrown in for good measure, will surely take care of the rest. Have a great day
Thanks for posting, I've got to do some patchwork on my wall "tree bark" style wall & this will be very helpful, thanks again.
You are most welcome Brian, thanks for commenting, have a great 2017
Thank you, I think this will greatly help me
Well hit me up sonic if you want any tips. Thanks for commenting have a great day and happy texturing
You have inspired me to step my game up. You do excellent work!
Nice one thank you for commenting.The bark pattern textured onto an entire wall looks beautiful
totally inspired...great work
Thank you Dustin for commenting. I am adding more videos after Christmas, with a new idea using comb tools. Have a nice holiday period
only a professional can do it so well👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏Bravo master
Hey Kostadin, thanks for watching and commenting. Have a great day
Hi, Excellent video. Am interested in using this method in our home. I can't seem to find the roller that you are using. Could you please supply a link to the roller that you are using. Would be very much appreciated. Thanks
nice very good roller and nice tecture....
Thanks Sameer
the best way to get rid of a old texture is to reskim the walls.that texture is amzing thow
thanks you so much!!! for that vedeos paint technology bravo... mabuhay...
Cheers man
Very nice work. Is there a special putty you have to use for that?
+Lee Mullen The material used is called texture powder. Thanks for commenting
Ceseme, usually drywall compound is texture for interior ceilings & walls, there are various types for creating patterned finishes, such as in the UK, Wondertex & Artex are 2 brand name texture powders that are both capable for the job
Nice work. is it the lighting, or is that mud yellow? I would imagine you had to really water down that compound to be able to roll it on like that. Thanks for sharing!
The lighting did affect the colour of the texture shown when I saw the video outcome, I thought I was wearing yellow tinted contact lenses. I think I may even have a yellow glitch in my camcorder.
For the tree bark texture finish (or any other texture finish, in fact,) that is the greatness of texture compounds specifically manufactured to adorn ceilings & walls, made specifically for the job, which work adequately through a wide spectrum of the materials, (when mixed with water,) consistencies, depending on what pattern is chosen.
Various tools such as combs and rollers and sponges and designated texturing tools ect (including the fingers (known as a 'medusa' finish)) can be used to create a plethora of creative patterns, as the consistency will fluctuate depending on desired textured pattern to furnish interior walls and ceilings.
As it happens, I published a video explaining consistencies of texture on my youtube channel quite some time ago, but I get a lot of folk sharing their disappointments and frustrations and I'm not really a counsellor, so I don't openly share the video link.
Thank you for commenting. Have a great day
Absolutely love it. I even liked it before you knocked it back. It has a more post modern feel. I cant wait to try it. What is the material applied to the walls, please? I've never heard of 'texture' material. Would plaster work sufficiently?
Hi there Veronica, thank you for ALL your comments I hope you found the videos informative. If you need texturing questions answered do let me know I may be abll to help out. Have a great day
8
amazing
Thank you
Very nice!
Very thank you
Nice ,thanks for the lesson.
Very good. Here in Brazil there is no roller like this one. But I can make with another type. The question is: You dont show the edge painting. How to paint the edge, making the texture, so the roller dont reach the edge ? I hope you understand my question.
Hello Ricardo. I will make a video in the near future showing the finish around the edges. Basically, 1 1" paint brush is run across the top and bottom of the wall, to complete a neat finish. I hope this helps. Have a great day
Hi Dale when you mention elastic bands, if you were to use elastic bands on the flat roller how would you have them on the roller? I take it you wouldn't have the bands criss crossing over each other, you'd just have them straight around the roller? thanks! Great video by the way and thanks very much for your help
Hi Brian, thanks for commenting
To be upfront about the elastic bands placed onto a flat roller;
Many texturer's believed that by placing elastic bands onto their flat roller, would create a really thick, prominent tree bark wall texture
The elastic bands were sometimes criss-crossing each other, but were placed around the roller, as per your observation in your comment...
But the same kind of effects could also be achieved without using any bands on your flat roller...
How this is achieved is;
If the mixed texture was of a thicker consistency once applied to the wall, and even laid on as a thicker coat, then when you draw your flat roller over this surface, would create a really proud, thick texture.
Where as if your mixture was of a watery'r consistency and once placed onto the wall, would create a less visible and dribblier patten
So as you see, the desired pattern effect outcome to make a tree bark (or broken leather, or a stillpe etc), would depend on the thickness of the consistency, and how thick you lay that mixture onto the surface
I hope this explains the elastic band myth, and really, to create the desired effect will take practice on an inconspicuous area until you reach the desired outcome you wish to achieve
I hope tis helps please let me know
Regards, Dale
Hi Dale is this a thick magnolia coloured emulsion paint you have used or textured coating as I can't get your consistency! thank you :-)
Hi there Brian, thanks for commenting
There are products called 'textured finishes, or, texture coatings, designed especially for creating artex, or drywall patterns onto ceilings & walls
This is the material I used, and certainly not paint or emulsion
The colour you see on the video is just a light effect, but in reality, the texture coating I am applying is a 'off-white' colour
As for the consistency, on my channel here, I have a few videos where I mix to the correct consistency for the pattern desired
Hope you check them out and discover what you are seeking
Have a great day
Awesome video dale💪
Thank you Milan
Hello . I am Persian language and I live in Iran. This type of color has recently become popular in Iran. If you can explain the different types of colors and how to use them, or if you can make a video, I'm very grateful. Kazemi from Iran
Hi there, thanks for commenting. The colour of the texture in this video, is kind of pale yellow, because of the powerful spotlight I am using to showcase the video. The original texture colour (without painting it) is actually 'off white.'
I hope this helps please let me know
Regards, Dale
Thank you for answering you ... But my question was about the type of color or texture (such as acrylic or base oil), or its type. Also, does the manufacturer of this type export, export or export to other countries? And what other products does it produce?
Many thanks
The paint is water-based (EMULSION) because it is used to paint on interior ceilings and walls. Oil-based paint is normally used on painting woodwork, and sometimes metal, inside houses.
Also, the texture is water-based. Like a cream coloured powder, then add water and mix to the consistency for the texture pattern required. This is made to make patterns on ceilings and walls inside the house
Let me know if this answered your question
Regards, Dale
Excellent ..... In Iran, this color is made of texture (dough shape) and only its acrylic type, and unfortunately it is not good quality. I and some friends try to enter Iran better quality and brand. But just from this color or powder model for the walls of the houses ..... with the tools associated with it
Love it.
Thank you Dog Days
Thats beautiful . Can it be done on ceiling as well ?
Sure Sajid. At times we used to treebark overhead beams so they resemble tree trunk finishes. Thanks for commenting
Very nice good job
Thanks Sanjay
This is an awesome pattern and you make it look so easy. How do you get the pattern / roller into the top corners?
Normally Kenneth we use a 1.5" paint brush to create a smooth border edge around the entire perimeter of the textured pattern
this is nice bit I did it in my largest room...took FOREVER.
can I use this material outside, front of my house and what's the name of the material, please, good job I like it👍👍👍
Munir, this is an interior finish called texture compound cannot be used outside. I have seen the similar pattern made with a cement-based mix for exterior walls
hi i like how it looks when you have it, but my house was built with this texture and it looks terrible, i really need to know how i would get rid of it? can you help? all i can think of is to scrap it all off and then sand it down
ThePiacentini Hi there. As of the building regs for health and safety, it is wise/essential/regulations to get a sample of texture checked by a reputable company dealing with such issues, as the old stuff may have contained asbestos, and removing/disturbing the texture coating could release particles. With that said, sometime a textured surface is difficult to scrape as the copious amounts of paint applied over the years makes scraping difficult. Some texture is applied thick (as in your bark pattern) & will possibly require the services of a plasterer. Let me know how you get on
ThePiacentini Thank you for the share
thank you for the reply, i will get it checked out right away, will let you know if anything changes, thank you
I would like to see you load the roller. Thanks, a lot of work.
There are many videos here where I am actually loading a roller with texture. Thanks for commenting have a great day
Great teaching, thank
You are welcome thanks for commenting
love it
Go on Cindy, you got taste. Thanks for commenting
Dear, its looking awesome but i have confusion in this video
you are using plaster or gypsum?
Your roller is simple or you make changes?
Will be something like drywall compound. Try rolling standard plaster on your walls and your going to have a nightmare on your hands! Plaster is generally applied with a hawk and trowel. At least here in the UK anyway.
Khalid, my dear, do not be confused for what you see in the demonstration is what you get and I have tried to make the task for creating this pattern as straight forward as possible. Thanks for commenting. Have a great day
Nice one Javier. Over the years I have seen some attempts where folk have used plaster/gypsum, and it is just not the same rto work with for creating patterns, so best not try. Thanks for watching my texturing videos and for commenting. Have a great day
Hi Dale can you please help - I have tried this but even though I get the correct pattern, the gap/ width between the bark effect patterns is less than the width on your pattern. Its almost as if my pattern is like a mini replica of what it should be. Can you advise how I can use the roller to get wider patterns? thanks
Hi David. Thanks for reaching out to me via email I have only just now read your comment here. Please comment back let me know how you got on
Have a great day
you do beautiful work,i try do get the same texture but i think i'm using the wrong mud,taping mud.What kind of mud are you using?
Keep trying, you may have to experiment with a few compounds before you find your favourite.
The mud I use mainly is a texture specifically designed to tape up joints prior to texturing, caulking out uneven surfaces, also feather edges besides finishing all manner of texture patterns.
I mix the texture from powder, and is specifically designed for creating textured finishes on interior walls & ceilings.
The actual product is available in the UK, currently, and is called WONDERTEX. That is my personal preference. Another popular brand is a texture called ARTEX. It has been around for many many years in the UK, and as wondertex,, does the job nicely.
Many texture's in US & Canada use specific texturing brands for creating intricate texture finishes on interior ceilings & walls (using combs or rollers or brushes etc) and they have their favourites too, but I do not know where you are from? Below is a link to an article with more information which may be useful
inspired-to-write.hubpages.com/hub/Which-Drywall-Texturing-COMB-Tools-Art-Effects-Compound-Mud-to-Use-USA-CANADA
Thank you for commenting Joe, have a nice day
Thank you for sharing the video Joe
How do you handle the top 2" and bottom 2" of the wall that the roller misses?
Thanks for sharing.
Hi there No Name. Basically using a 1.5" - 2" paint brush to lightly brush the edges. I have been asked this question so many times that I am in the process of uploading a video demonstration, because my typing fingers are basically knackered answering the same question. Then again, my fault I should have showed the process in the tree-bark texture video uploaded here. Thanks for commenting have a great day
Dale Ovenstone Thank you Dale for the answer and video. Such a cool texture and idea!
Hi, is it artex you used or can you recommend a similar product.
Hi Grimes. Artex if available, or another product available in the UK, is Wondertex. Let me know how you get on
Hey Dale, I love the tree bark texture and want to recreate it on my accent wall. The only problem is that I can't find that roller anywhere. I've tried looking for it online and in stores with no luck. By chance can you send me the website that you ordered it from?
+Cassie Miller Hi Cassie. The roller is actually called a '7.5" wallpaper seam roller' and is made of a very hard foam. I should soon be making a short video showing how to make one at home using plastic plumbing pipe and a small roller, these materials/tools may be available in major DIY stores worldwide
+Cassie Miller Hi there Cassie.
I have just made a short video demonstration (link below) showing how to make a tree bark wall texture roller applicator at home using obtainable (hopefully) materials which are cheap to purchase. Hope this helps.
Thanks for commenting.
Regards, Dale
ruclips.net/video/A7FmQPq-ORg/видео.html
Any tips for doing this on a ceiling?
Heather
In the olden days we used to create this pattern on ceiling beams in pubs to create a wooden effect.
Play around with the consistency of the mixture and the depth of how you apply it.
You may find it often creates more of an untidy 'stipple effect.; Until you get all the above mentioned factors correct
Practice on smaller area until all feels right
Let us know how you get on
Thanks for commenting
Have a great day
nice job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Any examples of this painted? Really interesting technique, man.
Yeah Dan check out my other vids I experiment painting the tree bark different colours
Hello is this an normal , ordinary interior wall paint or a special kind paint?
Zeyno, thanks for your comment.
The material is called texture compound. Sometimes called ARTEX in the UK, or drywall texture in the US.
It is not a plaster or a paint, but often it comes as a powder, where you mix with water to create a consistency desirable depending on what pattern you intend making on ceilings and walls.
I hope this helps please let me know
@@Artexing i have searched on internet but couldn't find as texture compound but I have found as joint compound and translated it into my languaged and bought it. I hope i have bought the correct one. I m gonna try this on my sister's home's wall. I hope I can do it:) Thank you sooooo much ❤
Zeyno, some folk have used joint compound for interior walls, as they could not obtain texture compound.
So long as it is not too fast drying and you can mix it to the required consistency to create the texture you wish to make, then give it a go.
Don't forget to seal / prime your walls before hand, and let this dry, to help diminish as much porosity as possible, so that the compound does not dry too fast into the surface once you place it onto the wall.
Also, my texturing guide, 'Nifty Tips n Tricks of a Professional Drywall Texture Practitioner' is available on kindle for more information, and sometimes is free to download there.
Please let me know how you get on at your sisters. And best of luck
@@Artexing thank you sooooo much i will definitely let you know the result. Kissing you ( a perfect kind hearted man) from your heart ❤
What membrane or product did you use ?
where can you get those smooth rubber roller? Ive called every hardware store around here cannott find. where can they be ordered on the internet? would a foam roller work? Thank you!
Janet Chessor The roller is actually smooth and hard and is a 7" wallpaper seam roller' I think it may be made of foam. And available on the internet
I purchased mine at Lowe's.
can you use drywall mud instead
Texture is kind of a drywall mud. But you cannot use plaster. Thanks for commenting, Brandy, have a great day
@@Artexing Why can't we use plaster ?
is it a normal paint or it can be done with any normal wall paints..??
The paint is for interior ceilings and walls. Only problem is, you need to take caution when painting a porous surface such as new plaster or texture for the first time, to diminish the chance the paint has from flaking off the wall / ceiling. I am about to upload a new vid demonstrating this, 'painting new plastered & textured ceilings & walls' Thanks for your comment have a nice day
+Dale Ovenstone Thank you so much..
shahnawaj alam 1
can this be used on a plastered concrete wall? Or would it fall off as a third layer plaster?
Hi there samdean77 thanks for commenting. Here goes the answer to your question
1: As long as the wall is an interior wall (because this kind of texture is for interior usage)
2: As long as the plaster is solid and stable to the wall (For any further decorating finishes & purposes, any background surface has to be sound first)
3: As long as you seal/prime the wall prior to texturing (To seal/prime the wall aids in diminishing porosity of the texture material, and helps the texture to bond/stick to the wall/surface)
I hope this helps, please let me know. And by the way, thanks for watching. Hope you have a great day
Thank you so much! I was waiting for your comment to start texturing tomorrow. But to clarify (as it is important, please bare with me) I have primed the cement wall with PVA and put the first coat on. The second coat of plaster I did not use PVA, should I have?
And finally, with the texture tree bark being the third layer, do I want to PVA it ontop of the second layer plaster before applying texture? Thanks so much in advance, Sam
You are most welcome Sam, I hope I can help further. Now this is going to take a bit of explaining, but I got sausages roasting in the oven so I got a few minutes before they are ready. Just to clarify your queries
1: To add 2 coats/sets, of skim plaster is normal. You have PVA'd the concrete and then plastered, and for the second set of plaster, as long as the first coat of plaster has not dried too much, you can skim over the second coat, that should be fine (Normally the second coat/skim of plaster will adhere to the first coat/skim as long as there is sufficient moisture still left in the first coat, which thus reacts with the sound layer, present there, and makes the 2 bond, but the first coat has gone enough dry so it is 'touch dry' that is, when you can barely mark it with your fingers, but it still looks wet enough, and has not gone solid, then second coat/skim on top of that.)
2: Allow all your skimmed/plastered area dry completely prior to texturing. All the damp marks has disappeared first. (You may find when you skim an outwards, interior wall, that will take more time to dry than when you skimmed an 'interior, or partitioned' wall, especially in the cold weather.)
Check out any dodgy parts or blown plaster you may think that may not have adhered, as per your concerns, and then if you find you have fkd up, hey ho don't worry be happy we all make mistakes, then remove the bad/loose plaster, prime/seal as necessary, and make good and let it all dry.
3: You are about to seal a very porous surface. You have to, prior to texturing any pattern. The PVA solution carries enough water/moisture, enabling a sufficient layer of bonding/sealing, solution to 'key' into the plaster, (acting as a 'solid/sound' base for more coats of sealer/primer to adhere to, eventually diminishing even more porosity enabling a practitioner to attempt/complete, texturing.) Follow product manufacturers recommendations contained on packaging, which ever building material you use, for the type of surface to be sealed/bonded//primed.
Check this vid, which explains in-depth ruclips.net/video/Q3bYVMegSpM/видео.html
I can smell my roasted sausages now, Mmm
Anyway Sam, I hope this helps please let me know
Have a great day, and thanks for commenting and viewing my video
Thank you so much, Dale! I'm in Vietnam and it's a bit difficult asking questions at the local hardware store. :) Good advice in a pinch and I appreciate your time in responding, sir!
what do you do in the corner where the walls meet the ceiling, where the roller wont fit?
Hi there Bo Haggin, thanks for commenting.
The edges and corners I use a 1" (inch) paint brush to run around the edges and perimeter whilst the texture is still wet. If you notice on many of my other texture videos, I use the same technique to tidy up the edges one the texture pattern is completed.
For results with the bark roller, as you cannot seem to get the roller too near to the ceiling edge (because of the diameter of the roller)...better still, I'll be uploading a video soon containing/showing the information I am attempting to describe here. Have a great 2018
Awesome video, but how does the top comes out as the roller or texture will not be close to the ceiling?
+Charlie Renteria A great, juicy question and one I get many email enquiries about.
If you are curious about creating beautiful eye-catching textures on ceilings and walls, be subscribed stay updated as the 'why' you ask needs quite a bit of explaining possibly via a video demo or an article, in the near future
But I can say right now, where the tree bark texture pattern is concerned the actual circumference of the finishing roller matters alot, which determines how close the tool could get to the edge (ceiling/wall).
You are right
But that does not really interfere with the finish as the bark roller you should use to create a tree bark texture has an adequate circumference that would get the finished texture to nearest, where it needs to be. It doesn't need to be patterned to the edge, just texture blended in to finish
In a few texturing videos uploaded on youtube (comb work vids and demonstrations) I cover how to finish a variety of texture patterns such as comb mud effects, broken leather pattern, stipple, knockdown, which also applies the same method for finishing edges of tree bark texture
I wanted to create a youtube channel covering all aspects of creative textures including preparation and repairs and these questions, answered, are there somewhere
Use a one inch wide soft paintbrush doused occasionally in water to FINISH all kinds of textured edges; ceiling, wall, top, bottom, sides.
The length should be around 1.5" (the hairy bit) In Fact to have around 3 different sizes (hairy bits) 1" wide paintbrushes, could be even handier on the job
As finished textures is a form of visual art, the final product the practitioner should be 'very' proud of, no matter a pro offering to someone else, diy'ers doing for themselves, friends, family.
Using a 'finishing' brush is 'just another new tool to get used to' and is just as important for the completed / presented finish, as each of the other tools used for texturing
A few slabs and dabs here and there, a bit of time with the texture and the tools and you'll be fine
But don't run off and go texturing yet there's more
As with DIY, Professional Texture Practitioners / finishers, the all importance applies
Thorough understanding of material being being used (to experiment with a few textures, sealers / primers until you find what you are happy working with.)
Good knowledge of a surface to be textured (preparation, key, and I talk about it a lot in my other videos, it's that important for successful ceiling / wall textures)
Conditions (humidity of room & surface to be textured onto)
Plus
Physical practice
As for a tree bark texture, if one were heavy handed drawing the paintbrush over/through the texture (after you have created the pattern and close to the edge) if done wrong it would look an awful mess.
But mostly it cannot be avoided, turn to the 1" paintbrush and let creativity continue and texture along complete an entire wall
Thanks for commenting I hope this helps. Have a great day
Love this! Wish I had the confidence to try it on my bedroom. BTW, how is it removed if one ever wanted to change it?
+Valerie Mercer
* a whole lot of sanding !
^
Hey Valerie, just give it a go there are plenty of tutorials here on yt or you can confide in me and I will help all I can. Confidence grows with action taken I'm sure you know this and excuse me for saying.
When I first started creative texturing I was not confident in the finished product, or even how to do it proper, but I knew I had to keep on doing until it become easier and better looking.
Heck, I even remember many years ago when I was a mere fetus (before your time) I couldn't walk or I couldn't talk back then and I used to wriggle around the floor gurgling shitting and being sick and stuff and I remember thinking sod this, I need to progress and I discovered my capabilities and just went for it anyway.
Yes I fell, and yes I gurgled some random words that meant nothing to anyone only myself, but I persisted all the same.
All the best Valerie. Thanks for commenting. Have a great day
Nice
Thanks
what are you using for the texture material?
In this video I am using a product called 'WONDERTEX premier 5 texturing powder.Some of my other videos I use a product caller 'ARTEX' texturing powder. These texturing products are available in the UK, (& a tad further afield.)There are also some great products for creating texture patterns in other countries; and the question would be,'which country are you from and what texture product do you prefer for creating texture patterns???
cool video but it left me with more questions than answers.
There are more questions than answers. And I didn't make that one up it's already there. Thanks for commenting have a great day
I couldn't find a smooth roller either so what I did was to get a piece of 2 inch pvc pipe and inserted a paint roller with 1 1/4 inch nap. I am wondering how do you get that tree bark effect all the way to the ceiling joint .
+Lee Mullen For best results, to get the pattern as near to the ceiling line, it helps if there is cornice/coving inserted onto the ceiling/wall edge.
This allows you to be able to push the roller (where the texture has been laid onto the wall) nearer to the edge.
Also, if you notice in the video, the roller that I am using to make the bark pattern is rather fat in diameter, whereas the original bark roller that was manufactured by a company, was rather slim, which is ideal for getting nearer to edges (bottom of wall and top of wall.)
When using the narrower pipe placed onto a small paint roller, this is ideal. I have actually purchased the materials to show how to make a home made, cheap bark roller, an d will be posting a video tutorial soon
Hi dale. I have tiles on one of the walls in restaurant. But I want to get texture done on it. Workers here are telling me that all tiles should be removed because it won't hold pop on it. But what if we scrap the tile surface or give dents on tile . Then is it possible?
Hi there. It would be recommended to remove the tiles first, and make the background sound and secure with plaster, etc, prior to texturing. In the past, I have plastered (skimmed) over tiles (at the customers request). I have degreased the surface, and then put on a 'neat' PVA sealer, which acts as a glue, left to dry, and double skimmed the surface with plaster afterwards. For texturing, the background must be reasonably smooth (depending on the texture finish required) and sealed/primed (to diminish as much porosity as possible. For the tiles to be removed first, then wall made good and then textured, ensures no comebacks (loose tiles/greasy surface etc) later after the job is completed. Thanks for your comment, I hope it all goes well for you. Have a great day. Regards, Dale
Thanks a lot dale.
You are welcome. Please keep us posted for the outcome of the job. Have a great day
How do u get the roller near the ceiling?
Brute force, Ariana. Thanks for commenting
Hello Dale,
Do you have any pictures of the wall after it was painted?
Gary
Kansas, USA
Gary Henson Hi there Gary. I have no pictures of this pattern painted as this is only a demonstration wall. Is there any particular question relating to the bark pattern that you are not sure about? Thanks for sharing this video. Regards, Dale
Gary Henson Hey Gary hope you are having a good day, I am making my next video with the complete wall that has been painted (faux like, two tone) this is just an experiment but will give more of an idea what a painted wall should resemble. Regards, Dale
the technique is a lot like the way cool- deck around a swimming pool is done
Sounds interesting Chris, thanks for commenting. Have a great day
nice
You too
IS THE PATTERN DONE ON UNDERCOAT OR SKIM CEMENT?
Gary, so long as the texture material is applied onto a non-porous interior ceiling / wall, that should suffice
which roller is used?
The one in the video Xavier. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Have a great day
ruclips.net/video/A7FmQPq-ORg/видео.html make a tree bark texture roller at home
I've searched for hours for a smooth roller...on the internet and I come up with nothing. Could someone please post a web address or company who makes a "smooth roller".
Thank you
+Harry Kellogg www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/f/FDDWALLRC/ here is an example 7" hard foam wallpaper seam roller as I have used similar for making bark textures. Hope this helps, Harry
+Dale Ovenstone
Thank you Dale. I never thought of a "wallpaper roller". Thanks
+Harry Kellogg This kind of product seems to be in abundant supply in the UK and Europe but not in the US. I wonder why. We use wallpaper here. The only firm I could find that would ship to the US wants to charge $33 for one $3 roller cover. I'll keep looking.
+Harry Kellogg That is very unfortunate Harry, I hope you find one soon. One viewer actually used a 9" paint roller, and he placed a round plastic pipe (plumbing) over the roller to make it smooth and flat, job done. Another alternative could be to remove the hairs/material, off an ordinary paint roller, and see if that helps. Years ago the actual (7" smooth hard roller) was for sale in decorators shops here in the UK, & made specifically for creating the texture bark, but not any more. Hope you find a smooth roller for bark, or some manufacturer could be reading this, and supply them at competitive cost, worldwide?
+Harry Kellogg www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8SWBW8/ref=asc_df_B00L8SWBW83870543?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=merbethomgarbhg-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B00L8SWBW8&ascsubtag=878298355 Here is a 6" version, still good for the job
it's nic
Dutta Barun. You have watched my videos and even taken the time to comment, for that I love you like a brother, and I may even send you a keyboard where the 'e' digit is intact. Either that, or you are calling me nic when my name is actually Dale, or maybe your names not really Dutta, afterall, but nic, really??? Only messing. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Have a great day
I wish I would of came across this video before I tried to match my original walls. I did it with bunched up newspaper, it was okay but not as good as this way.
Now that sounds like an interesting concept, scrumbled up newspaper wall texture pattern. Thanks for commenting have a great day
where did you get that roller?
Contact Kathy Weare on Facebook She has an online store in Chicago. They are only a couple bucks I think but very durable
how do you do the ceiling corner?
+Rob Bobcat Hi there Rob, thanks for commenting. I usually use a 1" paint brush and run this along all the skirtings and ceiling lines. I notice I left that part out of the video so I should soon do a short vid on finishing the texture bark. Have a great day
thanks
The problem here is this is the exact opposite of most tree bark... In that the thin lines are raised instead of troughs between chunks of bark. For wall texture I guess its ok but certainly isnt ideal for creating imitation tree bark imho
Yes, but you must admit that it DOES look good. Thanks for commenting have a great day
Sir your more vedio not back why
Thanks for watching and commenting, Ak, but I do not understand your comment, how do you mean? Have a great day
Sorry sir A'm worker painting
i have the same kind of wallpaer
what type of paint is it? Is it Normal paint or some special paint used for only this pattern?
Now how to get rid of tree bark textured walls my mom has them n 4room ugh they gotta go
DevCreates Unfortunately some attempts of bark texture look dreadful. And as a heavy wall covering containing sharp spiky finishes, could cause damage to furniture flesh and clothing. When done correctly and laced back, or knocked down, the pattern does look nice, and if you decide to get rid of any old texture adorning walls or ceilings, please make sure you have the old texture checked out by a repetuble operator before disturbing the compound
+Dale Ovenstone thank u
You are most welcome. Let me know how you get on
I can understand my Mexican coworkers better then him. And he and I speak English. I guess I been in "Texico" way too long. It took awhile but their stomach rubbed off. but it took awhile. Took my brother and me a year to figure out that everytime we told them to do something they would say "coma-caca"...once I dated a Mexican girl she said it meant "Eat shit". so next time they said it. my brother said "No Rudy. You eat shit" they all had a laugh because for the longest time it was their inside joke. Man were we a couple of pendejos.
We live and learn, Rick, and I was about to reply here in WELSH. Great story though lol thanks for sharing. Thank you for commenting have a great day
AHA! JOINT COMPOUND! Muahahahha....
Yes, joint compound, but here in the UK there is specifically produced texture (powder) for creating finishes as well as prepping joints/joins between plasterboards. And a massive muahahaha to you Veronica.
Dale Ovenstone you've inspired me so much that I have decided to enroll in a carpenter's training program. 😁
That is fantastic news Veronica, and the Carpenters were a great group also, you have inspiring taste in music yourself. Thanks for commenting, have a great day
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يعني حلوووو
Thank you for commenting, hope you enjoyed the video
+Dale Ovenstone
Hello my brother, I unfortunately do not answer the English language, but since I wrote you told a great job and I wish you a beautiful success
You are so kind. Sorry about the language mixup i did translate but I couldn't figure out the meaning of your message I do appolgise. I wish you a great day and every success for your future. Thank you again for commenting. Have a great day fellow creator
This time I'll use woodprix instructions to make it easy with my own hands.
Nice. Thanks for commenting have a great day
owoww
texture roller ...
Elaborate if you wouldn't mind?
veg
musanjemedia
musanje
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Hindi l.
Yes
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Hey arpit, thanks for commenting. Have a great day
Чем проще в работе,тем хуже смотрится.Туфта.
It really is not that difficult with the correct compound a well prepared surface and a bit of practice. Thanks for commenting have a great day
@@Artexing Я понял,удачи!