Here's how you move the SS lever out of the way. I do it all the time on a KP15 lower. Move the SS cam to the rightmost position and then stick the pointed end of a zip tie into the gap where the detent slides along. Move the lever rearward so the detent will stay flush enough and the lever will move out of the way. It may take a couple attempts since the zip tie is acting like a ramp so the detent can let the cam rotate enough so the lever is out of the way. Change your buffer and then push the lever forward to have the detent snap back into the channel.
You should look into the "gentle recoil system" by Blowback9 Really great chap with many interesting videos Would be interesting to see how it fares with the super safety
Thanks for the heads up! I went and checked out that video, I will probably end up putting that assembly together. He said it is reported to shoot nicer then the Maxim defense, which is quite fast and has a solid shove when firing fast. The longer buffer tube and heavier buffer would probably provide a really nice rate of fire.
@@Redacted-Arms I don’t understand why you said you couldn’t use a short barrel in the video, that doesn’t make any sense, there are tons of people that use short 4 inch barrels for super safe AR9s
@@mrgrump2534It was in regards to the Maxim RDB. The safety had no issues. The RDB had a break in period where it wouldn't work with the short barrel. That was when this video was made. It later worked itself out and worked great for me.
Very interesting product. It looks like it basically locks the buffer spring out, and adds mass to the bolt. which the mass should equal more stored energy, so it just might have enough to run the super safety. It has been a while since I messed with a cmmg conversion, but if I remember right the sear trips (technically wouldn't be a sear on the safety) come separately. A 22lr would be a extremely fun piece if you could get it to work!
Not being able to change the position of the safety after firing is not an “inherent flaw” to the HT super safety as a conventional AR safety behaves the exact same way…
Yes I did. My video titled "Hoffman Tactical Super Safety AR-9 Roller delayed and Sliding weight buffers tests" I am using the RDB with the 4.5" barrel. It took a little bit of a break in period with the 16" barrel before it worked with the 4.5" barrel. but it currently runs great and is still VERY fast!
so do you think if you put the weight back into the 9mm bcg and used maybe a super hard buffer spring and maybe a heavy buffer cause i know 9mm ar’s run better with heavier buffers that would help it with the bolt bounce?
I will conduct some further experiments with this. I will try a AR10 spring. I ordered a 10oz sliding weight buffer from KAK. sliding weights were Colts original solution to bolt bounce in the M16 platform. Hopefully I can slow the triggers active reset speed down as well.
Thanks! I was going for a specific look with it. The "brand name" is "tacfun" which is stupid, but it was the only one that looked how I wanted it to look. It is aluminum and the perfect thickness, quality is quite good. It comes with the barrel nut as well all for around $20.
As far as I know there are no firearms that are sold equipped with these. they are all retrofits. I am not aware of any development for the Ruger PC carbines, There are "Binary" triggers for them. From the trigger pictures I looked up of the PC carbines it may be feasible to use the SS concept and implement it in a Ruger. If you have a printer, I would highly encourage you to explore that option with your firearm.
@@Redacted-ArmsI don’t have a printer nor do I have the knowledge but I would love to help in an any other way . Testing / using mine as a Guinea pig kinda thing .
Ok, I am not aware of any efforts that have made in converting the PC's, I don't have any plans to as I don't have any of those firearms and don't plan to in the near future. I have a couple other projects that I am working on instead. It doesn't cost "to" much to put together a 9mm AR if you want a 9mm with a safety for now.
@@controlledchaos8851 I am not terribly familiar with the MP5 family (I live in the wrong tax bracket), But as long as the internals on the Zeniths are standard (it appears they are) I believe it could be made to work with it. Hoffman Tactical mentioned in his MP5 video where he got the adaptor to run the Safety in his MP5.
Hoffman Tactical actually refers to it as a active trigger system (page one of the documentation). He does not ever refer to it as a "forced" trigger however. I believe the legal brief does mention the word "forced" however. Vernacular aside, the trigger is "active" as I demonstrate in this video, the effect is basically assisted/controlled bump firing.
Not necessarily. The Safety allows the trigger to be pulled when the bolt is .013" from battery. How the tail of the trigger is modified to accept the Safety will affect that measurement. Lock time is not short enough to be a issue with that small of a measurement. The bolt is at the end of its travel and is most likely at its highest speed at that point. Most likely the light strike is from the bolt bouncing to far back that is simulated hammer follow.
@@Redacted-Arms I'm not understanding everything you're describing. Yes how the rear of the trigger has been rounded will affect the timing, too little material removed could cause the hammer to drop prematurely on the next trigger pull. Also I think youre describing bolt bounce, in which case a heavier buffer and spring would help. But since you're not shooting 5.56 I'm not sure what to suggest for buffers and springs.
@@Zukuri620 No worries. So think of the safety as a cam lobe. If the tail of the trigger isn't ground down enough, then you can not pull the trigger as it will jam (effectively the gun is on "safe"). conversely, if you grind to much it will not assist the trigger forward. I will try to describe it better in my next video where I will be experimenting with sliding weight buffers and different springs. I would really like to slow the ROF down.
@@Redacted-Arms I'm a mechanical engineer. I understand the mechanism completely. I drew a jig in CAD and 3d printed to ensure the angle and radius were cut correctly on mine. Worked perfectly. I used the dimensional drawings provided in the SS documentation.
Perfect! I think that we are basically on the same page then. You probably understand how bolt bounce works and why it could different symptoms in a direct blowback gun then in a rotating bolt gun then. As I mentioned to one of the other commenters, I am getting a 10oz sliding weight buffer to experiment. I made a lighter sliding weight buffer that I am going to experiment with as well. I believe I have seen a printable jig file floating around the net. Is that yours?
@@project_AK47 Maybe, the atf however didn't rule anything and the only 'trustable source' is twinbros lol, they trusted hundreds of people outa money haha
JFC why are so many people using 24fps in the 2020s for internet videos? Ugghhh. I know it's off-topic, but damn, this is the 5th channel and like 10th video I've come across with 24fps filming (and bad settings making the already bad 24fps look worse) and I just can't stand it. >30fps (True 30 if possible, not 29.97. But better to keep the recording and editing setup matched. If the cam only says 30 in the menu, it's likely shooting 29.97 and lying, consult the manual/internet for confirmation) >1/50th shutter speed (the 180-deg rule sucks and is not based on how physics works with exposure time. It will make your footage look worse via reduced and unnatural motion blur) >Shutter Priority auto exposure mode (unless you manually expose) so the camera can't change the shutter speed automatically and ruin your motion blur >Get a single darkness ND filter (ND16 if you only buy one) so that the previous step can actually still get the exposure dark enough while outside on a sunny day (ND8 and ND32 if you want to buy two filters. Don't buy adjustable filters (esp cheap ones) since those have visual artifacts and other problems) >Film in an all-intra-frame codec such as Apple ProRes or XAVC-SI (not just S or X). Google your camera to find out which codecs do this, if any. If you insist on the exact visual qualities of 24fps (even over the only 25% smoother 30fps), all the other above steps besides switching to 30 will still vastly improve the look of your footage. And if you're willing to, you can switch the camera's region to PAL mode and shoot 25fps, instead, and retain ALL of the visual qualities of 24, but 4% smoother and with much less confusion/mismatching since there were never decimal versions of the PAL frame rates to fk over your footage with. The only downside is that you'll be forced to either a 1/30th (too low IMO), 1/40th, or 1/60th of a second shutter speed to prevent interior lighting from flickering on camera since PAL regions power line frequencies run at 50hz instead of our 60hz, and you must have EITHER your framerate or shutter speed be an even division or multiplication of 2x the power line frequency to counter that flicker. You could also film at 50fps full time with 1/60th, then simply edit in a 25fps timeline and throw away half the frames and that will work much smoother than 60fps and doing a 3:2 pulldown or whatever to derive 24fps from it. Filming at 50 all the time also gives you baked in 2x (50%) slow motion since you can just interpret the 50fps footage in a 25fps editing timeline to get that slowdown. You could also speed-ramp between full speed and slow motion in either a 25 or 50fps timeline and you'll have good motion blur for both full speed and slow motion that way.
@@Redacted-Arms I feel like this is somewhat patronizing. But either way, to post something on topic for the video: DAMN that thing shoots fast! I also appreciate the suppressor usage and agree with the magazine opinion. Double stack/Double feed is the only acceptable magazine type when the magwell is outside the grip. Unless it's like, 12ga shells or a rotary mag like a 10/22 or something.
@@Drunken_Hamster My apologies, it was a somewhat sarcastic answer to a somewhat niche pet peeve lol. I don't have a large opinion on framerates. I shot this all at 59.94 and intended to upload it at that framerate so if viewers wished to slow it down they could more smoothly to some extent. I checked and it looks like I accidentally exported it at 24fps. So I did screw up there. I will try to keep a better handle on that in the future. I just looked through my other videos, and it appears that I did not repeat the mistake. Yes! it is VERY fast! Calculating based off of the audio file, the 16" suppressed is running a whopping 1350RPMS! Is it practical? Not exactly. is it fun? Absolutely! I later got it to work in my 5" barrel with the roller delay and that is 1200RPMS. I had originally had some feed issues with those magazines (only dump half of a mag then not feed) due to weak springs. So I swapped one of these mags with an Uzi spring, and the other with one from a promag (promag doesn't even fit in the gun).
@@Redacted-Arms Neat. Well, if you want to make the most out of 60fps, all of the other tips still apply, only you'll have to set the shutter speed at 1/60th of a second, since your camera either won't let you set a shutter lower than the frame rate, or it might mess up the footage by doing so. If you're curious, the reason why I don't follow the 180-deg rule (frame rate x2 = ideal shutter speed) it's because it's not rooted in the physics of how motion is captured. Shutter speed is an expression of time per frame. If you capture 1/60th of a second of time, it doesn't matter if you do it once, 24 times, 30 times, 48, 60, or whatever. Each frame will have 1/60th of a second of time captured and will contain that much motion blur. The only time you want motion blur to even possibly scale with the frame rate is when you're using a higher frame rate with the explicit intention to play it back ONLY in slow motion. As far as natural motion blur for full-speed playback is concerned, that occurs in the 1/40th to 1/60th of a second range regardless of recorded (or derived by deleting excess frames) frame rate. Anything past 1/80th quickly degrades in motion blur quality and naturalness. I won't bother with flicker compatibility again since I assume you'll stick with NTSC rates (24, 30, 60, 120 etc) which don't need a flicker compatibility shutter speed here in America since we have the 60hz power lines and all "our" frame rates are even divisions of 120. Oh, also, you can do your own slow motion in editing whether it's in a 24, 30, or 60fps timeline. Look into "speed-ramping" and how to activate it in your editing software, or if there's another editing software you can use that'll do it. With 60fps, I've found you can go as much as 3x slow motion (or 33% speed, depending on how it's expressed) before it looks too choppy. That would be slowing from 60 to 20. It's also a nice round number so no goofy pulldown judder like what happens when you play back 24 in a 60 timeline.
I installed SS but when I charge the handle the handle sticks and won't work also when I am able to chamber a round the first round I shoot the BCG ends up getting stuck once again.. The function rest seems fine and my lower worked well before, any help would be great.. Thank you..
I will paste my reply to both videos you commented on just for future people. What it sounds like to me is a bad lever. I have had that issue with badly printed parts. I had mine all printed in stainless steel, so I was able to grind it down to work. If you look at the bottom of your bolt, the rear round portion sticks down lower then the flat portion that normally resets the hammer. You are most likely jamming up on the bottom of that flat part. What I have done is trimmed the top of the lever (the flat of the "L") with a sanding wheel on a Dremel. If you wipe the bottom of your bolt off good, and put a nice daub of grease on the top of the lever, it should leave a indicator of it jamming on the bottom of the bolt. The issue that it sounds like you are having is the exact issue I had in the first gun I was using in my second video (the gun with the mean arms magazines).
I did not mention it. I looked up my order history. I bought it from KM Tactical. They currently only list one on their website and that is it. It works with both colt mags and that Austrian brand of magazines.
It is a Leupold Freedom RDS. I generally like it, not fond of Leupolds single button of confusion. But I do like the shake awake (very important to me).
@@LoneStarHomestead3 Yep! I maintain transparency in my videos, so I include also the "uncool" things. I don't pretend to be the says all on anything gun related, im just a enthusiast sharing my enthusiasm. I dont rely on "casual" mentions of overpriced gucci guns that may or may not exist to validate whatever point is trying to be made (I seriously can't figure out where you are coming from except to be divisive).
I’m going to be cool with you. The Hoffman is a licensed FFL so he’s allowed to do that. I don’t know about you, but people need to stop making these videos. That’s what happened to the rare breed tired of losing my freedoms by the ATF me and all fellow Americans people like self and others continue to make these type of videos. This is another rare breed trigger thing by the ATF. Please stop making these videos because that gives freedom to the ATF as evidence to take a freedom away stop
Thanks for the candid comment! How can you take away freedom that you do not have? I would highly recommend that you educate yourself on Firearm laws and rules (and the difference). Everything that I have done in any of my videos is 100% legal for any non felon American to do. There are some excellent youtube channels that are run by lawyers that are all about the ins and outs and legalities of firearm ownership. My personal favorite (in my featured channel list) is @WashingtonGunLaw. There are a couple others (they are a little dryer to listen to). I do think it interesting that you assumed Hoffman Tactical LLC is in fact a FFL. I actually assumed that they are not (never asked him). They do not manufacture firearms to sell (class 7), They do not manufacture machineguns (class 7 and Special Option Taxpayer/couple other hoops). Here is a list of FFL's as just "being a FFL" isn't a carte blanche for whatever business you want to do. class 1: Dealer in firearms (retail) Class 2: Pawnbroker Class 3: C&R collector Class 6: Ammunition manufacturer Class 7: Firearms Manufacturer Class 8: importer Class 9: dealer in destructive devices Class 10 Manufacture of destructive device ammunition (or armor piercing) Class 11: Importer of destructive devices, ammunition for destructive devices and armor piercing.
^^You: Screw the ATF taking our freedoms Also You: Please obey our master ATF. They will stop taking our rights if you just submit..... Thats what I collected from that statement...lol
This didn’t age well at all lol. We have a Supreme Court ruling now. ATF can’t touch FRTs, Super Safeties or anything else of the like that mimics FA fire but still requires subsequent trigger pulls.
Here's how you move the SS lever out of the way. I do it all the time on a KP15 lower. Move the SS cam to the rightmost position and then stick the pointed end of a zip tie into the gap where the detent slides along. Move the lever rearward so the detent will stay flush enough and the lever will move out of the way. It may take a couple attempts since the zip tie is acting like a ramp so the detent can let the cam rotate enough so the lever is out of the way. Change your buffer and then push the lever forward to have the detent snap back into the channel.
On my 5.56, I had to bump up to an H3 buffer. I was having the exact same issue with my SS. The buffer swap cured it completely.
You should look into the "gentle recoil system" by Blowback9
Really great chap with many interesting videos
Would be interesting to see how it fares with the super safety
Thanks for the heads up! I went and checked out that video, I will probably end up putting that assembly together. He said it is reported to shoot nicer then the Maxim defense, which is quite fast and has a solid shove when firing fast. The longer buffer tube and heavier buffer would probably provide a really nice rate of fire.
@@Redacted-Arms I don’t understand why you said you couldn’t use a short barrel in the video, that doesn’t make any sense, there are tons of people that use short 4 inch barrels for super safe AR9s
@@mrgrump2534It was in regards to the Maxim RDB. The safety had no issues. The RDB had a break in period where it wouldn't work with the short barrel. That was when this video was made. It later worked itself out and worked great for me.
I’ve been looking into this with a cmmg 22 lr bolt weights and a battery buddy seems to be the best bet for reliability
Very interesting product. It looks like it basically locks the buffer spring out, and adds mass to the bolt. which the mass should equal more stored energy, so it just might have enough to run the super safety. It has been a while since I messed with a cmmg conversion, but if I remember right the sear trips (technically wouldn't be a sear on the safety) come separately. A 22lr would be a extremely fun piece if you could get it to work!
Not being able to change the position of the safety after firing is not an “inherent flaw” to the HT super safety as a conventional AR safety behaves the exact same way…
Any updates? Ever get the maximum rbd / SS combo to run right with a short barrel?
Yes I did. My video titled "Hoffman Tactical Super Safety AR-9 Roller delayed and Sliding weight buffers tests" I am using the RDB with the 4.5" barrel. It took a little bit of a break in period with the 16" barrel before it worked with the 4.5" barrel. but it currently runs great and is still VERY fast!
so do you think if you put the weight back into the 9mm bcg and used maybe a super hard buffer spring and maybe a heavy buffer cause i know 9mm ar’s run better with heavier buffers that would help it with the bolt bounce?
I will conduct some further experiments with this. I will try a AR10 spring. I ordered a 10oz sliding weight buffer from KAK. sliding weights were Colts original solution to bolt bounce in the M16 platform. Hopefully I can slow the triggers active reset speed down as well.
Its the bcg or the buffer spring, take the can off and see what it does
I really love that hand guard
Thanks! I was going for a specific look with it. The "brand name" is "tacfun" which is stupid, but it was the only one that looked how I wanted it to look. It is aluminum and the perfect thickness, quality is quite good. It comes with the barrel nut as well all for around $20.
So like I would love that for the Ruger PC Charger but is there a system that I can buy that is already set up for this ?
As far as I know there are no firearms that are sold equipped with these. they are all retrofits. I am not aware of any development for the Ruger PC carbines, There are "Binary" triggers for them. From the trigger pictures I looked up of the PC carbines it may be feasible to use the SS concept and implement it in a Ruger. If you have a printer, I would highly encourage you to explore that option with your firearm.
@@Redacted-ArmsI don’t have a printer nor do I have the knowledge but I would love to help in an any other way . Testing / using mine as a Guinea pig kinda thing .
Ok, I am not aware of any efforts that have made in converting the PC's, I don't have any plans to as I don't have any of those firearms and don't plan to in the near future. I have a couple other projects that I am working on instead. It doesn't cost "to" much to put together a 9mm AR if you want a 9mm with a safety for now.
@@Redacted-Arms so would the zenith mp5 work with it ?
@@controlledchaos8851 I am not terribly familiar with the MP5 family (I live in the wrong tax bracket), But as long as the internals on the Zeniths are standard (it appears they are) I believe it could be made to work with it. Hoffman Tactical mentioned in his MP5 video where he got the adaptor to run the Safety in his MP5.
Not an active trigger system. That's the whole point of the safety.
Hoffman Tactical actually refers to it as a active trigger system (page one of the documentation). He does not ever refer to it as a "forced" trigger however. I believe the legal brief does mention the word "forced" however. Vernacular aside, the trigger is "active" as I demonstrate in this video, the effect is basically assisted/controlled bump firing.
If your getting hammer follow, then thr super safety geometry is such that there is bad timing of your follow up trigger pull.
Not necessarily. The Safety allows the trigger to be pulled when the bolt is .013" from battery. How the tail of the trigger is modified to accept the Safety will affect that measurement. Lock time is not short enough to be a issue with that small of a measurement. The bolt is at the end of its travel and is most likely at its highest speed at that point. Most likely the light strike is from the bolt bouncing to far back that is simulated hammer follow.
@@Redacted-Arms I'm not understanding everything you're describing. Yes how the rear of the trigger has been rounded will affect the timing, too little material removed could cause the hammer to drop prematurely on the next trigger pull. Also I think youre describing bolt bounce, in which case a heavier buffer and spring would help. But since you're not shooting 5.56 I'm not sure what to suggest for buffers and springs.
@@Zukuri620 No worries. So think of the safety as a cam lobe. If the tail of the trigger isn't ground down enough, then you can not pull the trigger as it will jam (effectively the gun is on "safe"). conversely, if you grind to much it will not assist the trigger forward. I will try to describe it better in my next video where I will be experimenting with sliding weight buffers and different springs. I would really like to slow the ROF down.
@@Redacted-Arms I'm a mechanical engineer. I understand the mechanism completely. I drew a jig in CAD and 3d printed to ensure the angle and radius were cut correctly on mine. Worked perfectly. I used the dimensional drawings provided in the SS documentation.
Perfect! I think that we are basically on the same page then. You probably understand how bolt bounce works and why it could different symptoms in a direct blowback gun then in a rotating bolt gun then. As I mentioned to one of the other commenters, I am getting a 10oz sliding weight buffer to experiment. I made a lighter sliding weight buffer that I am going to experiment with as well. I believe I have seen a printable jig file floating around the net. Is that yours?
Anyone having issies with the pistol uppers or pistol bcg with super safety
Where did ya buy it?
wouldnt buy it anymore 🤣
@@project_AK47 Maybe, the atf however didn't rule anything and the only 'trustable source' is twinbros lol, they trusted hundreds of people outa money haha
@@jraddd3477 there is ring camera of the atf raid or so I heard and they ar also refunding people money
JFC why are so many people using 24fps in the 2020s for internet videos? Ugghhh. I know it's off-topic, but damn, this is the 5th channel and like 10th video I've come across with 24fps filming (and bad settings making the already bad 24fps look worse) and I just can't stand it.
>30fps (True 30 if possible, not 29.97. But better to keep the recording and editing setup matched. If the cam only says 30 in the menu, it's likely shooting 29.97 and lying, consult the manual/internet for confirmation)
>1/50th shutter speed (the 180-deg rule sucks and is not based on how physics works with exposure time. It will make your footage look worse via reduced and unnatural motion blur)
>Shutter Priority auto exposure mode (unless you manually expose) so the camera can't change the shutter speed automatically and ruin your motion blur
>Get a single darkness ND filter (ND16 if you only buy one) so that the previous step can actually still get the exposure dark enough while outside on a sunny day (ND8 and ND32 if you want to buy two filters. Don't buy adjustable filters (esp cheap ones) since those have visual artifacts and other problems)
>Film in an all-intra-frame codec such as Apple ProRes or XAVC-SI (not just S or X). Google your camera to find out which codecs do this, if any.
If you insist on the exact visual qualities of 24fps (even over the only 25% smoother 30fps), all the other above steps besides switching to 30 will still vastly improve the look of your footage. And if you're willing to, you can switch the camera's region to PAL mode and shoot 25fps, instead, and retain ALL of the visual qualities of 24, but 4% smoother and with much less confusion/mismatching since there were never decimal versions of the PAL frame rates to fk over your footage with.
The only downside is that you'll be forced to either a 1/30th (too low IMO), 1/40th, or 1/60th of a second shutter speed to prevent interior lighting from flickering on camera since PAL regions power line frequencies run at 50hz instead of our 60hz, and you must have EITHER your framerate or shutter speed be an even division or multiplication of 2x the power line frequency to counter that flicker.
You could also film at 50fps full time with 1/60th, then simply edit in a 25fps timeline and throw away half the frames and that will work much smoother than 60fps and doing a 3:2 pulldown or whatever to derive 24fps from it. Filming at 50 all the time also gives you baked in 2x (50%) slow motion since you can just interpret the 50fps footage in a 25fps editing timeline to get that slowdown. You could also speed-ramp between full speed and slow motion in either a 25 or 50fps timeline and you'll have good motion blur for both full speed and slow motion that way.
Thank you for your service in the crusade my brother
@@Redacted-Arms I feel like this is somewhat patronizing. But either way, to post something on topic for the video: DAMN that thing shoots fast! I also appreciate the suppressor usage and agree with the magazine opinion. Double stack/Double feed is the only acceptable magazine type when the magwell is outside the grip. Unless it's like, 12ga shells or a rotary mag like a 10/22 or something.
@@Drunken_Hamster My apologies, it was a somewhat sarcastic answer to a somewhat niche pet peeve lol. I don't have a large opinion on framerates. I shot this all at 59.94 and intended to upload it at that framerate so if viewers wished to slow it down they could more smoothly to some extent. I checked and it looks like I accidentally exported it at 24fps. So I did screw up there. I will try to keep a better handle on that in the future. I just looked through my other videos, and it appears that I did not repeat the mistake.
Yes! it is VERY fast! Calculating based off of the audio file, the 16" suppressed is running a whopping 1350RPMS! Is it practical? Not exactly. is it fun? Absolutely! I later got it to work in my 5" barrel with the roller delay and that is 1200RPMS.
I had originally had some feed issues with those magazines (only dump half of a mag then not feed) due to weak springs. So I swapped one of these mags with an Uzi spring, and the other with one from a promag (promag doesn't even fit in the gun).
@@Redacted-Arms Neat. Well, if you want to make the most out of 60fps, all of the other tips still apply, only you'll have to set the shutter speed at 1/60th of a second, since your camera either won't let you set a shutter lower than the frame rate, or it might mess up the footage by doing so.
If you're curious, the reason why I don't follow the 180-deg rule (frame rate x2 = ideal shutter speed) it's because it's not rooted in the physics of how motion is captured. Shutter speed is an expression of time per frame. If you capture 1/60th of a second of time, it doesn't matter if you do it once, 24 times, 30 times, 48, 60, or whatever. Each frame will have 1/60th of a second of time captured and will contain that much motion blur.
The only time you want motion blur to even possibly scale with the frame rate is when you're using a higher frame rate with the explicit intention to play it back ONLY in slow motion. As far as natural motion blur for full-speed playback is concerned, that occurs in the 1/40th to 1/60th of a second range regardless of recorded (or derived by deleting excess frames) frame rate. Anything past 1/80th quickly degrades in motion blur quality and naturalness.
I won't bother with flicker compatibility again since I assume you'll stick with NTSC rates (24, 30, 60, 120 etc) which don't need a flicker compatibility shutter speed here in America since we have the 60hz power lines and all "our" frame rates are even divisions of 120.
Oh, also, you can do your own slow motion in editing whether it's in a 24, 30, or 60fps timeline. Look into "speed-ramping" and how to activate it in your editing software, or if there's another editing software you can use that'll do it. With 60fps, I've found you can go as much as 3x slow motion (or 33% speed, depending on how it's expressed) before it looks too choppy. That would be slowing from 60 to 20. It's also a nice round number so no goofy pulldown judder like what happens when you play back 24 in a 60 timeline.
I installed SS but when I charge the handle the handle sticks and won't work also when I am able to chamber a round the first round I shoot the BCG ends up getting stuck once again..
The function rest seems fine and my lower worked well before, any help would be great..
Thank you..
I will paste my reply to both videos you commented on just for future people.
What it sounds like to me is a bad lever. I have had that issue with badly printed parts. I had mine all printed in stainless steel, so I was able to grind it down to work. If you look at the bottom of your bolt, the rear round portion sticks down lower then the flat portion that normally resets the hammer. You are most likely jamming up on the bottom of that flat part. What I have done is trimmed the top of the lever (the flat of the "L") with a sanding wheel on a Dremel. If you wipe the bottom of your bolt off good, and put a nice daub of grease on the top of the lever, it should leave a indicator of it jamming on the bottom of the bolt. The issue that it sounds like you are having is the exact issue I had in the first gun I was using in my second video (the gun with the mean arms magazines).
@@Redacted-Arms
I got mine from twin Bros
Which ar9 bcg were you using? I didn’t catch it in the video
I did not mention it. I looked up my order history. I bought it from KM Tactical. They currently only list one on their website and that is it. It works with both colt mags and that Austrian brand of magazines.
Well I’m glad I never ordered one of those safety’s 😂
Does anyone have a working phone number for twin Brothers 3-D printing?
I do not see one on their website, they do have a email. My guess is that is on purpose
What’s the optic?
It is a Leupold Freedom RDS. I generally like it, not fond of Leupolds single button of confusion. But I do like the shake awake (very important to me).
*exactly what I'd expect from a PCC that uses Colt mags*
Lol! yeah, I know this isn't exactly a good advert for them!
That's really ignorant.
I use colt style mags & modified Uzi mags & NO PROBLEMS, even in a real M-16
@@LoneStarHomestead3 Ignorance is bliss!
@@Redacted-Arms It seems you know that very well
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@@LoneStarHomestead3 Yep! I maintain transparency in my videos, so I include also the "uncool" things. I don't pretend to be the says all on anything gun related, im just a enthusiast sharing my enthusiasm. I dont rely on "casual" mentions of overpriced gucci guns that may or may not exist to validate whatever point is trying to be made (I seriously can't figure out where you are coming from except to be divisive).
I’m going to be cool with you. The Hoffman is a licensed FFL so he’s allowed to do that. I don’t know about you, but people need to stop making these videos. That’s what happened to the rare breed tired of losing my freedoms by the ATF me and all fellow Americans people like self and others continue to make these type of videos. This is another rare breed trigger thing by the ATF. Please stop making these videos because that gives freedom to the ATF as evidence to take a freedom away stop
Thanks for the candid comment! How can you take away freedom that you do not have? I would highly recommend that you educate yourself on Firearm laws and rules (and the difference). Everything that I have done in any of my videos is 100% legal for any non felon American to do.
There are some excellent youtube channels that are run by lawyers that are all about the ins and outs and legalities of firearm ownership. My personal favorite (in my featured channel list) is @WashingtonGunLaw. There are a couple others (they are a little dryer to listen to).
I do think it interesting that you assumed Hoffman Tactical LLC is in fact a FFL. I actually assumed that they are not (never asked him). They do not manufacture firearms to sell (class 7), They do not manufacture machineguns (class 7 and Special Option Taxpayer/couple other hoops).
Here is a list of FFL's as just "being a FFL" isn't a carte blanche for whatever business you want to do.
class 1: Dealer in firearms (retail)
Class 2: Pawnbroker
Class 3: C&R collector
Class 6: Ammunition manufacturer
Class 7: Firearms Manufacturer
Class 8: importer
Class 9: dealer in destructive devices
Class 10 Manufacture of destructive device ammunition (or armor piercing)
Class 11: Importer of destructive devices, ammunition for destructive devices and armor piercing.
^^You: Screw the ATF taking our freedoms
Also You: Please obey our master ATF. They will stop taking our rights if you just submit.....
Thats what I collected from that statement...lol
This didn’t age well at all lol. We have a Supreme Court ruling now. ATF can’t touch FRTs, Super Safeties or anything else of the like that mimics FA fire but still requires subsequent trigger pulls.