i trust you checked the serial number... my first reaction was it is a swapped junk engine, not the rebuilt one... the old owner kept the built one and sold him this boat anchor.
I know a couple of engine builders who put their own numbers some where on the engine, inside the crank case and head usually, to keep track on his engines. And writes down everything to do the the engine. One guy I know only will do complete engines and goes as far as putting tamper seals on them. He reckons you learn to cover your backside real quick when some bloke comes through the door with a baseball bat after blowing his engine.
I have been a mechanic for 36 years and have rebuilt loads of engines in my time and rotor engines too, that engine has done way more than 40 miles for a start,
@@anthonynewsome2389 You can see carbon build-up from the old engine oil at the bottom of the engine, The valves, and combustion chamber have a lot of carbon Deposit on them as an engine that's done 40k + yes the engine looks like it had oil starvation as an old oil pump fitted, plus a few other signs.
Cannot the bloke could say 40 miles and keep a straight face. If I was lee I would ring him in a week and say I would have rung earlier but when I stripped the engine down I remembered you said 40 miles I’ve only just stopped laughing so I thought I should call. 😂😂😂
That engine looks like it has been thrashed with low oil, the previous owner realised that the engine was knackered, sold it on with a lie to make it look like a new engine. Buyer beware.
It's amazing how little some people know or care about engine hygiene , then there's the try on merchants blaming everybody else but them selves. I take my hat off to you ,how you deal with them so calmly.
When I worked for a garage after school I was in charge of the parts washer. It was the most used tool in the workshop. Everything that came off an engine went through it. The boss was adamant, even if it added 30 mins to a job, everything had to be spotless before going back on the car. We also had a very good relationship with our engine builders and they had the same attitude. They were known for turning work away if they weren't happy about a customer doing some of it themselves.
I have the suspicion that goes with my station and that looks like it’s done more than 40 miles. If you buy an engine, pop the sump off, it always pays off, even if it makes you happy 😊
Definitely more than forty miles, if the engine was built 3 year's ago assembled dirty never had the correct oil or enough oil changes and then driven hard ( I don't think I mist anything ) that should do it.
I used to build competition engines in the seventies, minis, Fords and Jaguars, and I would never give any warranty on an engine unless I had assembled the entire engine myself, including fitting the gearbox on minis!
Would consider changing either your warranty or procedure of documentation. You seem to get a lot of grifters wanting new engines for things you did not have a hand in.
40 miles? I would say the 1st Customer had been flogging that engine,wore it out then sold it on,using your receipt as proof of work being done. . Looks like 40,000 miles without an oil change.
I agree. First owner sold the motor after he had problems n lied to the current owner. Why would a owner sell a motor that has just been rebuilt. He rebuilt it, didn't clean it. It had issues. He told next guy to run it in knowing full well it would have issues n prob said just do 40 miles then get it tuned so he could use tuner as scapegoat. First owner set up the next guy. Never buy 2nd hand engines.
I skipped a couple oil changes, now I am doing shorter intervals. Didn't do a lot of miles, but the last oil came out nice. A few short intervals - 5K should flush out any crap. (manual says 9K/12 months). For me that's July or 1,500 miles now.
@@simontheeldergeek523 Agreed. I'm in the radio business and occasionally work on tower mounted equipment. There's never been a day when I thought "what a waste of time taking all those hundreds of pics." There's been many times, however, that I've said "Thank F%#& I got a few snaps!" Lots of times it's because I needed to check a part number or attachment config, but sometimes it's to prove to accounting that indeed, the invoice should be paid.
Yup. 25 years ago I did a light Volvo B20 makeover, fitting a new 270° cam....without fitting the camshaft end bearing. Ran sweet for 200 miles, after which one of the Conrods seemingly had a completely unexpected malfunction, exiting the lump through the side. Still got a little bit bad conscience over that missing bearing. I simply forgot to tell the owner about it later. (I'm a different person now, luckily)
Sorry but no way in hell is that damage from the engine not being clean when assembled. Old boy ran the piss out of that motor for a couple years then fucked the guy he sold it to saying it was a new engine.
That was run well over the 40 miles that was claimed. Sludge and metal shavings alone would have been picked up by the filter. This is many miles with oil starvation.
It's not the contamination from the grinding, if this was a debris issue all the bearings would be sacked. This is a starvation issue most likely, as I stated in your previous video on the engine, and the answer to the damage is within the oil pan and pickup. Map out the oil system from pickup to the end of the last passage and it will start to make more sense why it failed the inner rod bearings.
The end rod bearing might indicate debris in the oil galleries. Also we don't know if the crank was plastigauged insuring proper clearances or the rods sized.
As an engine builder, that looks like nothing of the pan, timing kit, sump, and every other external was cleaned. That pickup tube even has a different color sealant particle stuck in it than the sealant used on the rest of the engine. This would also tell me that the customer did not prime the oiling system before the first startup either.
I suggested this to someone. "When I do an oil change , I take out the plugs and spin the engine on the starter to fill the oilways" he said I was risking damaging the engine and would tell his friends on the Vintage motorcycle club and get back to me how stupid I was , no come back at all. Would that be a good idea when doing a full rebuild ?
Sat for 3 years with no oil, assembly lube had dried out, pump not primed and took a while to prime itself. By the time the engine got oil the damage was done. Then driven hard with now semi-metallic oil.
I had one built in the 90's by a so called Mini expert . Come the winter I started it up one morning and it went bang. No anti freeze in it and the block cracked but the builder with his years warranty wouldn't accept it was his fault. Cut a long story short it cost me more to repair than the original rebuild cost .
@@follyfour506 No anti freeze in it? How do you not notice that? How the heck is that the builders fault? He builds, you make sure to use proper coolant & ensure it HAS coolant.
John J I would have done the same but back in the 60's. I did get my hands on a full race Downton Cooper S though which became a real money pit which I exchanged for a bog standard 998 Cooper - those were the days
Truly unbelievable. I have seen very high mileage engines and none have ever looked like that. The issue with that engine was totally avoidable! The engine deserved better owners!
I've only seen one engine that had that much glitter, and that was in my first car, a 1980 cortina 1.6l. When I stripped it for parts the oil looked like that, but that had well over 200ks on it and had been thrashed hard by the previous owner. That engine has either never had the parts cleaned before installation or has done way more mileage than hes been told
Might be time to take photos and upload them to cloud storage of every job that comes in the door as it arrives with all the found damage, and then also photos of the job as it is before the customer collects it ( inside and out , meaning just before the rocker cover goes on and the sump goes on and then of the totally completed unit) that way you can name the files according to job id and completion state and pop them all in their own job id folder this way its not only a written record of your work but a visual evidence
Learned to drive my friends 1965 , 3 speed , 289 cu. mustang early 70's ... we rebuilt that motor a couple times, in the middle of a dirt field , could never figure out why it only got 10,000 -20,000 miles before it failed ... we were all teens ... after aircraft power plant school and later wrenching as a auto tech ... it makes sense now I'm almost 60 ... 🙃
I’ve had a fair bit of experience in building engines newish and old. This one looks like it’s done high mileage and maybe oil changes have been few and/or not done very regularly. It’s a pity that some customers always want to blame someone else.
It is difficult to get the truth out of people as to what has really happened. Let me explain what I think is going on. I work in construction, I do a lot of maintenance in peoples houses. When I go to a new customers house the man of the house can act a little oddly, especially in front of the wife. Now for the explanation, men think they should know all about "Men things." construction, mechanics, fighting vikings." You get my point. Now most of them know as much about fighting vikings as the do about construction or mechanical's but that ancient gene in them makes them think they know. What really triggers them is when you point out that they know fuck all about vikings.
I don’t believe that this engine has only done 40 miles. 40 miles without oil maybe! I had a work colleague that had a Ford escort with a BDA engine and he stripped it down and had the work carried out by an engineering company, but rebuilt it himself. Unfortunately he didn’t clean the head after a skim and valve work. A month later the valve buckets looked like flat discs and the whole engine was wrecked. An expensive lesson!
I know what you mean about a box of bits, when I worked for a Rover dealership, we had a customer turn up with a cardboard box, containing the fuel injection pump from his Maestro Diesel, completely disassembled to individual component level, he asked if we could rebuild it and set it up so that he could refit it on his car himself, needless to say, we gave him his box back and directed him to the local diesel injection specialist !
That engine has done more than 40 miles,the damage to those con rod bearings is self explanatory really oil starvation is my bet without even looking at them
I've done engines for about 40 years never seen rods that lose and if I had built that engine it would not have gotten out the door the mains look used just my thoughts on it. Nice videos
Typical of an over fueled engine, they ran it way to rich and thinned the oil to a point where is was no longer lubricating. They kept running it and trashed the rod bearings which then due too metal contamination trashed the main bearings. Not sure on the 40 mile claim because, an extremely rich engine that was continually run with contaminated oil will produce this same result. Of which the appearance of longer distance use by not tuning the fuel mixture, possible incorrect ignition timing and improper lube system maintenance left this little engine to tear itself apart.
Nice to hear someone like yourself who knows what they are talking about and experience too , if I ever need a rebuild I wouldn’t hesitate in contacting yourselves and I know I would not get ripped off 👍excellent video
That sludge doesn't show up in 40 miles. They must have run it without of oil for a while to mess up the bearings that bad. Probably forgot to put oil in it after installing the engine.
A wiped out no. 1 bearing is usually an oil starvation issue like you said. I wonder if they installed the wrong size bearings, because that was a lot of bearing material.
Here in Australia there’s no warranty unless the radiator has been serviced or replaced And many years ago they used to also affix a metal disc using temperature calibrated wax to the back of the head and the wax was special stuff in that if the metal disc has fallen away that means she’s been overheated……. And no warranty….. Sometimes I wonder if sludge can also be due to dodgy friction additives or additives in general……
11:30, I have disassembled engines with 100k miles, that looked like new, those bearings are trashed! It's probably rtv clogged the oil line, when using rtv, it should barely be visible, not running off the sides, when it comes to rtv on a engine, less us best! Hopefully they learned something from this, being built by someone else, and somewhat unknown, they should disassemble it, have a look and check it out, then reassemble, if all is well, then install it... And clean off all the extra rtv! But all that is my opinion, based on what I have learned over the years!
Are you sure that's the same engine you put the crank / pistons in because the state of the oil residue in the sump / head looks like 100,000 plus mIles with not enough oil changes?
I’m not an expert by any means. I agree that the engine looks to have way more than 40 miles on it. I am wondering if the problem could have been caused by a way over rich fuel mixture. The head was very dirty and the exhaust valves did not look normal to me. It looks like the combustion temperature could have been relatively low so the carbon was not cooked off the exhaust valves. If bad enough (rich) unburnt fuel could have washed oil from the cylinder walls destroying the rings and diluting the oil. The oil would still circulate and cool the parts it come in contact with but not lubricate. The bearings would not last long in that situation. Just my two cents (or is it pence?)
This was my first thought too, then I saw that sludge. Oil diluted with fuel isn't going to form the slimy sludge in the sump. At best this engine was cleaned poorly and at worst not at all.
Ignoring the shredded bits the soot contamination seems amazing particularly as it is supposed to have just done done 40 miles BEFORE an oil change. The crank looks considerably cleaner than the sump, the exterior of the engine is the only part that makes the mileage credible. Looks like filthy old sump (and oil pump?) have been fitted without any cleaning. Demoralising for everyone involved....
also it looks like every single part that wasn't done by Barum looks like its just been taken off put in a pile and reinstalled with out cleaning or checking.
A little insight on the Mazda L3 engine for you. I worked for Mazda as s tech in a dealer. Reason I say I worked for Mazda is as a tech Mazda treats us as end user engineers. Anyway the L3 and LF engine s alike don't have keyways as I'm sure your aware of but what you may not know is there was a number of cases of rod bearing failures due to over torquing of rod bolts on cranks that where at the high end of the journal tolerance so what would happen was determined due to the close tolerance and thin oil heat would build to a dangerous level .if the oil was even slightly low the pressure would drop on rod 1and 2 causing a touch down . Due to this you would end up with spun bearings to locked up blocks. We found cases of rod bolts over torqued by as much as 65 ft . Why you don't hear about it is Mazda never blames a failure on there process publicly. They infact will blame an engine failure on an outside system failure like a oil cooler or filter or whatever.
i had a keyway cut recently! 10mm x 10mm x 300mm on a 60mm x 450mm shaft..not crank btw , industrial..quite pricey work...can't imagine why they'd avoid it 😂
Yep, it's been run on a restriction in oil flow. Doubt the 40 miles. Also engines with a history like this are a tuners nightmare. They're being set up to be responsible for an engine fail.
No way any bearings could survive starvation, no way of determining where the trash came from but starvation will make a lot of trash. Either the engine has been run more than 40mi, or it was assembled dirty and starved of oil. It wouldn't have run much longer and needs lots of parts now. Did it ever have oil pressure, customer wasn't watching oil pressure?
As a relatively old guy whose rebuilt a lot of engines. 1. Surgically clean and plenty of lube when reassembling. 2. That engine looks like an old 100k mile 80's Pinto that's never been serviced in it's life. 40 miles lubed with lapping paste ha ha? 3. There's one component in your car that touches every other ... it's supposed to be honey coloured and runny :-) 4. What a pleasure (to me) it is to hear this young man diagnosing on sight. When you showed the valves I though, blimey ... that's rich as hell. Proper mechanics are getting very hard to find, and you Sir are one. (4.5 ... dyno's destroy engines and transmissions ... a candle that burns twice as bright only burns half as long?) Looking forward to the uncomfortable phone call vid!
Yup, you nail that one! on all counts. Don't know about hearing someone playing the blame game when it's obviously negligence on the clown who's trying to pull a fast one on shop. Some folks just can't OWN their own screw-ups, so they go looking for anybody to Blame instead of learning from them. Big old smile on the pinto engine comment, only I was thinking 70s Chevy Vega. 50-50 HUH
@@tonysteppan8495 Cheers! The pinto was very hard engine to break. I remember doing a really quick fix on one. Scrap yards were full of them anyway so getting one was never an issue. It broke two compression rings. Gave it a quick set of cord rings and new shells ... don't think I even took it out of the car. It did another 100k ha ha. Should have added point 5. Put things back where they came from, like rockers valves etc if you're not replacing them. We used to grind out ports, stick in angry cams, all sorts of things. Quite fun ... and on a really tight budget. We had an lot of cam belt snaps, they were open to stones and things, just a tin cover. Valves were expensive so a mate had a lathe, heat them up, straighten them with a DTI, temper in the sink (my dear old Mum didn't like that). Re lap .. good to go. I kind of started reliving it all when my kids started to drive, they got old cars, showed them how to take a head off , decoke, re lap the valves etc. Just sold my Omega B, 2.6 V6 2002.. 4 cam shafts ... what a beautifully smooth balanced engine that was, and quite short, almost cute. The only engines I've never had to do anything engine wise on were 20E and 30E Opel Manta / Monza engines. Cam in head, chain driven? Keep the oil clean with good filters, and they are pretty much Immortal, so well oiled. (1990's!) I've grown up now ... so outside is a 1996 Z28, with 52k miles on it from new (in the UK)... it's not even run yet ha ha. Had her 6 years now? I'm not anti mapping, I just don't see the point. My way is more cc, a low stressed large V8 playing it's music for everyone to hear. Sorry to curse but christ it's quick! Sorry to go on.
@@black5f No Problem, my first car was a 1958 T Bird. $125.00 was a lot back then. My Dad help out getting it home due to a disputed payment on a head gasket set. Not running mind you, so I was told if I wanted to drive it, I had to fix it. My Dad bought parts, but I had to do the work. He taught me skills that have served well, even if I thought it was too much work at the time. We had OPELs that my dad bought through Buick back in the late 60s a rally coupe and Kadett One had a 1900 engine the other was 1. something, both were bullet proof. That was my 1st stick shift. My brother and I both had Opel mantas with black out hoods, I believe they were also rally optioned. We put headers and side exhaust on both, but my bro ditched the carb for a Holley 500 2 barrel messed with the timing just to end up with a cracked block! Aw the learning curve was ruff. Many a butter knife was lost to making scraper blades, not to mention being heated with a torch to make mini prying tools for lord knows what! Like you stated Poor MOM! I worked at the Van Nuys C-P-C plant for 2.5 years building Camaros and firebirds 1986-1988.They shut down and moved to Canada in 91 I believe. The Lt-1 is a sweet engine. I've gone backwards and have a 90 vett with only a L-98 engine as my fair-weather car.91 was a Lt-1 but the 90 was hard to pass up 27.000 miles. but little service had been done. But I can do that! Your 96 Z28 would truly scare the life out me with you being in the left lane and all. My turn to run on! CHEERS and miles of smiles in that Z28!
@@tonysteppan8495 Cheers! I took her out yesterday for a little run as the weather wasn't too bad. Keep the battery in good nick etc. My only niggle with her ... there's hardly any room under the hood, rather crammed. So far all I've done on her is WP, front seals and rad. L98 is a fine solid engine ... and easier to work on in a Vet!
@@black5f Howdy, 4th gen Camaro with a LT-4 engine. Good Hp and torque the only - was the Opti spark Disturber under the water Pump with the drain weep hole. Same with the Vett for 96. At least it's OBD 2, not OBD1 like mine. Mine is like a commadore 64 version. Pong anyone? One fault at a time with another fault lying in wait to get fixed. Oh, the good old days A. Is your Z run with Mobil 1 oil or do you run a blend mixture? I know that older cars than ours are sensitive to newer oil mixtures due the zinc content. plus, seals will let loose at the most inopportune time. Your seal may just be a common issue with that engine? Mine is the upper intake has RTV in the front and rear with gasket mat. along the head. My rear seal was toast. Not an easy repair but doable. Lotts of stuff to remove and replace while its apart. Hope you don't have to go through an Opi spark replacement! Way too much fun. I try to get an 8 to10 kilometer run in every other week depending on weather? To keep seals and injectors wet. Our fuel is rubbish so fuel stabilizer is a must for any prolong sitting. Sorry to babble! You and Your's have a Safe and Merry Holidays! One last thing Barum Engines you tubes are interesting to watch! I'm sure the GOOD engine shops state side have the same kind of Day-to-Day Going on, but these guys are thorough and seem to think things through not rushing into the next one. CHEERS
I've taken apart Chevy small blocks I've built after 100,000 miles and they were in better condition and cleaner inside than that! I have the original 262.5cid (4.3L) V8 from my '76 Monza on a stand in my garage after 100,000 miles since I "built" it (as in modded). I'll tear it down one day but I bet rings and valve stem seals is all it needs. 350 in the car now... ;)
Definitely looks to be more than 40 miles on that motor. Also looks like it wasn't tuned correctly due to how cold the combustion temps would have been to cause that wet/black build up on the head. Also could cause gas diluted oil that would contribute to bearing failure. Good place to check would be the cylinder bores, only 40 miles and those cylinders should be clean, good cross hatching and not much variation in size from 3 years ago. New owner is looking for someone to blame as he doesn't want to admit he's been taken advantage of in buying this used motor.
Wow what a week. Loving the Mini engine and the BMW M3. The first thing I was taught when I started in the Trade was Cleanliness is next to Godliness. That Nissan motor and no1 big end what a mess. Keep the videos coming. Bon weekend.
We had a set of stamps and would put a unique code on each engine or head or part which was recorded against invoice, that stopped the part switch scam.
Only done 40 Miles--Pig's arse! Due to glazed bore I would suspect cylinder washing due to overfuelling, probable oil dilution and heavy running loads resulting in damaged bearings. I do not see this as the tuners fault either, more like the previous owner has played engine rebuilder without the requisite knowledge. No way this has been done in 40 miles unless he ran it in using sewing machine oil!!
there is something you didnt mention or check, that would be the bores, when you tune an engine for more power you must re-gap the piston rings, the increase in power makes the in cylinder temps much higher and the rings will expand more and butt up against the gap and then deflect, in other words there is no where for the expanded ring to go so it can break the top of the piston off in extreme case's. ive seen it so many times after a tune they get a certain mileage from the engine then doom, the last one i looked at was an astra sri turbo tuned up to around 300hp, it went like stink, he got about 5000 miles out of it, then it got a misfire due to low compression, i asked about the rings, he said he didnt know the tuner never said anything about rings, we took the head off and the bores where junk, one of the rings had chipped at the end and the whole block was scrap....
@@kx250braap maybe, problem was hard piston ring particles has been in the engine and circulated, this caused damage to the every journal and bearing including the head, the car was sold on to someone who had a replacement engine.
Your best video yet really enjoyed it, the details of work done and the chance of seeing some of the vehicles the engines will go in, the examination of the Nissan engine and the story behind it was fascinating 👏. Can I ask what do you think of using engine flush prior to oil change and what flush and procedure would you recommend?
My question: what is the goop? Is it just old oil deposits, or it is it a slurry of oil and very fine metal? If the later it might have run 40 miles with basically no oil in it.
I love watching your videos and i have to say that engine was never cleaned as you know clean oil clean engine will last a long time keep up the good work 😊
The last time I came across gunk like that was after stripping a block that had been running with Winns oil additive for a year, and yes, it makes an engine quiet but it soon blocks the pickup mesh once it gets gummy because someone added it to synthetic, next in line then is the addition of the filings due to dry bearings. The customer seems to be a bit suspect if you ask me, 40 miles? yeah, not having that unless that main block was untouched for many more miles previously. Thanks for the video, maybe it will help to show how it is not good to try and con the guys who do it for a living 👍
@@beeftec5862 also by showing the customer the photos they know you have a record, makes it harder for them to tamper and hope to shift the blame should anything go wrong.
I think the first owner run it like crazy. It started a bottom end knock. Pulled the motor, cleaned the outside and sold it to to buy a replacement. Full knowing he could not reuse the crank and block after the damage. Thats my belief. Without a warranty. If I can not tear it down and look, it better be in a running state. I have bought 3 motors from friends just to find destroyed blocks and the loss of friends. Not the best of situations.
Maintaining high standards of workmanship pays off in the warranty case. It is also the perfect example of "shortcuts are not always the shortest". Keep the videos flowing and thanks for sharing.
Ah, love that glitter paint! The only way it sustained this catastrophic failure and level of varnish is likely by a severe lack of oil pressure. It looked cooked (and coked), and I suspect it smells like it too. You mentioned no excessive cylinder wear or ring ridge, only glazing (heat). How many miles without oil pressue would it take? There was no coolant in the cylinders and no sign of a blown head gasket, so... I was not the buid, yours or his. I have seen engines from trashy rebuilders still go 100k (and look much better), even if they have a few grooves in the bearings. Those bearings looked melted, not just worn, and journals did not reflect their level of destruction. Perhaps they should have filled the oil a wee bit sooner.
People tend to underestimate the amount of time they've run an engine as well as the running conditions when they seek out a warranty. Even if they are NOT trying to be dishonest, the memory can play tricks. The proof is in the actual wear in the engine, and if the machine parts are ground and running true to acceptable tolerances (lack of defects). As we know, letting an engine sit around for long periods is not good for the metals inside or the oil, and those conditions as well need to be figured in. What kind of temperature variations did it see etc regarding condensation forming. I agree that all that sludge didn't accumulate after 40 miles. Either the mileage was greater, or it was never cleaned during the rebuild.
Are these press in cylinder liners, if so did you press them out to check for cracks in the liner, seen it in the passed and it gives the impression the head gaskets blowing, the gunge looks as though it's been steaming up in there.
Nice work on mini engine, to me it looks like that’s done more than 40 miles for that damage also to have so much play in the big end. He needs to talk to the person he bought from?
Looks like someone started that engine with no oil in it. Realized what they did. Took it to the tuner hoping he would detonate it and get him to pay for it.
Engine has sat somewhere for 3 years? That can't be good. I can't believe anyone would put that engine back together with all that crud still in the sump. I don't know what else you saw when you took it apart but it looks like an engine that has been run 40000 miles without an oil change. And then it fails and they quickly change the oil.
Your record keeping is impeccable and this shows why it needs to be. I think the original owner half-assed it together and when it started making noise he sold it by saying you had built the lower end. He made money on your reputation. I feel bad for the new owner, but caveat emptor (translated: let the buyer beware). I won't build part of an engine for this exact reason. You repair a turn signal bulb and they blame you for a transmission failure. Keep up the good work, I want to meet you when I'm in the UK next summer.
looking at those main bearings It ate a lot of swarf from something which probable made it sound terrible but it was ignored until it had ground all the bearing material out of all of the big end and main bearing shells! I knew all the bearings were gone as soon as I saw the amount of grey sludge in the bottom of the sump, there is only one thing that looks like that and that is bearing materiel.
SR20 very strong reliable motor. Was the oil pump checked for tolerance(s) / wear before reinstallation, or replaced with new? Or did the client install old oil pump or supply and install new oil pump but installed wrong pump ? I understand there are different pumps for different versions of the SR20 S13, S14, S15? If client did the oil pump work then shop completely off the hook.
I got taught a lesson having stripped and replaced the timing chain on my Honda CB250 G5 in the early 1980’s laboriously cleaned absolutely everything so it was sparkling. Trouble was I’d been given a bag of industrial wipes/rags that weren’t lint free. Engine back in the bike, new oil, took it up the road for a final test and the camshaft seized solid. There was a tiny mat of fibres in the oil pickup. I was gutted, couldn’t afford to get the roller bearing conversion done, sold the bike in bits. Taught me a massive lesson.
40 miles could be true it just depends where, on a drag strip that’s a friggin lot of runs. That oil looks far to old and thick. My old wrx loves the 5w40 every few months, it’s not what’s recommenced but with it being thin on start up helps a lot and not thick when warm helps it not to blow the gaskets all the time
So is the New Engine owner a friend of the old owner ? I say friend lightly as I have had "friends" like that before . You know the ones that aren't in the slightest bit a friend. That oil looks like sludge from when you maybe have had water near it , Is it possible an engine flush additive did this ?
i agree. looks like the guy who originally refitted the sump just bolted the old one back on without cleaning it. so the oil he put in just shifted the gloop and up round the oilways it went.
I have been in the trade a long time ,,served my apprenticeship from 1970 and no way has it done just 40 miles ,you bring so many great memories back for me , you are amazing , great so see another technician at work , reminds me when I was given an engine a loads of bits of an engine of a Aston Martin v 8 and did everything like you every part checked and cleaned using graphite grease on all moving parts, just till the oil pump got oil through all engine ,,, love to see a true professional at work
Had an engine similar the SR. Engine had been rebuilt before i got it but not ran. I took it that it was assembled correctly, which it may have been but unknown to me it had been stood for 4 years outside. Although the engine ran for sometime when i used it, one bigend did let go. Looking at all the bearing they look like the ones in the SR. The bearing shell surfaces had welded to the crank whilst stood as it must have only been built up with oil. My fault for not running the oil pump up first i guess??
Something in my mind just does not add up. I have built and taken apart engines that have gone south. (Destroyed themselves) I have never seen that thick dirty muck in the pan like you are showing. Even when these engines destroyed themselves ie: Spun bearings, burned themselves to the crankshaft, the oil was still clean but there were debris everywhere in the pan in the pickup but NO dirty sludge anywhere. ???? I wonder what the oil filter looks like? That will tell you if the oil has 40 miles on it or if it has 30,000 miles on it.
I have seen oil go like that in just an hour running but it was due to some pretty nasty contaminants. That would not have happened if the engine was stripped down to the last nut and bolt then gone through an ultrasonic cleaner. Not doing that can cause extremely rapid wear and tear but I have never seen bottom end bearings go in less than 200 miles. Many decades ago when I was engine tuning for a proddy motorcycle team I used to get through a toothbrush per rebuild.
we need to come with a name for the male version of a Karen.... he bought a used engine probably thinking he stole it at the price he paid... then finds out that somewhere someone put a dent in the great deal he got and wants someone to blame instead of owning up to the fact he is the one that bought it with out doing the research. if the seller told him you built the engine he could have called to verify just what you had done with the engine. great video!
I agree with other comments. That is NOT a 40 mile engine. The amount of sludge in the sump and the color tell us that. First thing is DO NOT USE RTV as a gasket material. That is a rookie mistake. I have built engines professionally since 1972 and have seen too many engines where the RTV worms broke off on the inside of the engine and clogged an oil passage. At 11:57 you can see the worms on the inside of where the sump bolts on (we call it the pan rail). Those long thin ribbons of RTV that squished out when the sump was installed are doing nothing but waiting to break off and get in the oil. We use old school #2 Permatex or #4 Yamabond. The Yamabond is used by Yamaha and as we like to say "have you ever seen a Japanese motor cycle leak oil?". How about never. At 11:35 I do not understand why the main bearing inserts are loose in the caps. I see evidence of the debris in the oil and the bearings are trashed. But the inserts should still be firmly set into the caps. Are those the correct bearing inserts or is the housing bore incorrect? We had a Mercedes 190SL owner call us asking why there was oil coming out of the exhaust pipe at the rear of the car. We said that was impossible and asked the history of the engine. Owner claimed it was a 0 time newly installed engine but was built 5 years earlier. Why the delay in installation? Seems the idiot owner (a lawyer) was slow to pay the restoration shop. Now he has the car and his local mechanic shop is big on synthetic oil and sells the idiot lawyer a synthetic oil change on an engine designed for conventional oil. We are brought in to consult. Tear down shows during the 5 years of sitting in an outside storage shed the rings rusted and pitted the bores. With rings not seated, the syn oil was so slippery it would not allow the rings to seat and oil poured past them. Was incorrect break-in oil used in the Nissan?
@Barum Engines, I am surprised that all the engines you rebuild are not covered/Sealed up? Surely it should be a clinically clean environment? I wouldn't want my freshly rebuilt engine sitting there uncovered in a workshop getting covered in dust and crap?
Hes far to kind with them, they tried the same tricks 20 years ago when i was in trade. Probably trying to avoid bad internet reviews i this day and age.
When I rebuilt my Mk5 cortina engine everything was cleaned before re assembly.Done 600 km now and the oil is as clean as when it went in so yes I would suspect that engine was never cleaned before re assembly.
You do not normally see engine repairing to this level done anymore . I served my apprenticeship in a Ford main dealership starting in the 70s , this kind of work was normal for most garages at the time . If I were repairing an engine now to this level I would always renew the oil pump as they wear out also . Another issue we found when getting cranks reground and renewing the crank shells was that sometimes blocks ,rods and caps could be oversize and bearing shell outer diameters did vary . This could catch out even the best Technician .
Sorry, but I know nothing about the Mini motor you started the video with. What are the hex-drive looking parts pointing both directions low on the side of the block?
Авто/Мото
i trust you checked the serial number... my first reaction was it is a swapped junk engine, not the rebuilt one... the old owner kept the built one and sold him this boat anchor.
Same thoughts here.
That’s my thoughts as well.
I know a couple of engine builders who put their own numbers some where on the engine, inside the crank case and head usually, to keep track on his engines. And writes down everything to do the the engine. One guy I know only will do complete engines and goes as far as putting tamper seals on them. He reckons you learn to cover your backside real quick when some bloke comes through the door with a baseball bat after blowing his engine.
@@iananderson4897 yeah thats the way 2 do it. Tamper seals and stampings
I have been a mechanic for 36 years and have rebuilt loads of engines in my time and rotor engines too, that engine has done way more than 40 miles for a start,
The 40 miles was done in the back of a pick up from and to the shop. The other 40k hard miles who knows.
it was starved of oil how then will it look at 40 miles?
@@anthonynewsome2389 You can see carbon build-up from the old engine oil at the bottom of the engine, The valves, and combustion chamber have a lot of carbon Deposit on them as an engine that's done 40k + yes the engine looks like it had oil starvation as an old oil pump fitted, plus a few other signs.
Cannot the bloke could say 40 miles and keep a straight face. If I was lee I would ring him in a week and say I would have rung earlier but when I stripped the engine down I remembered you said 40 miles I’ve only just stopped laughing so I thought I should call. 😂😂😂
Maybe it did just 40 miles... but was strapped on a dyno or used as a generator for a few hundred million revs...
Guy he bought that engine off has had his pants down!!. That engine was knackered when he bought it. Brilliant work on the mini engine.
That engine looks like it has been thrashed with low oil, the previous owner realised that the engine was knackered, sold it on with a lie to make it look like a new engine. Buyer beware.
Exactly!
@@syncrosimon correct my friend
Your idea of clean is a light year from the person that finished the build
I personally tell him to go away
Hmm possible run without oil I'd say
It's amazing how little some people know or care about engine hygiene , then there's the try on merchants blaming everybody else but them selves. I take my hat off to you ,how you deal with them so calmly.
When I worked for a garage after school I was in charge of the parts washer. It was the most used tool in the workshop. Everything that came off an engine went through it. The boss was adamant, even if it added 30 mins to a job, everything had to be spotless before going back on the car. We also had a very good relationship with our engine builders and they had the same attitude. They were known for turning work away if they weren't happy about a customer doing some of it themselves.
I cant't help but wonder if its even the same engine that you worked on previously!
Can you verify that is the engine you worked on main caps marking big ends etc 40 miles my arse
I have the suspicion that goes with my station and that looks like it’s done more than 40 miles. If you buy an engine, pop the sump off, it always pays off, even if it makes you happy 😊
Definitely more than forty miles, if the engine was built 3 year's ago assembled dirty never had the correct oil or enough oil changes and then driven hard ( I don't think I mist anything ) that should do it.
I used to build competition engines in the seventies, minis, Fords and Jaguars, and I would never give any warranty on an engine unless I had assembled the entire engine myself, including fitting the gearbox on minis!
Would consider changing either your warranty or procedure of documentation. You seem to get a lot of grifters wanting new engines for things you did not have a hand in.
40 miles? I would say the 1st Customer had been flogging that engine,wore it out then sold it on,using your receipt as proof of work being done. . Looks like 40,000 miles without an oil change.
Oh that's obvious. You're exactly right. He straight up fucked that dude lol
Got to expect to be played as that sucker borned every min ! Does not mean that you got to be that said sucker !
I agree. First owner sold the motor after he had problems n lied to the current owner. Why would a owner sell a motor that has just been rebuilt. He rebuilt it, didn't clean it. It had issues. He told next guy to run it in knowing full well it would have issues n prob said just do 40 miles then get it tuned so he could use tuner as scapegoat. First owner set up the next guy. Never buy 2nd hand engines.
It shows how important it is that you keep a very detailed record of every engine that you work on in case it comes back with a problem.
Yes, including indelibly marking it
And photos, lots of photos
The pen is the mechanic's most important tool.
I skipped a couple oil changes, now I am doing shorter intervals. Didn't do a lot of miles, but the last oil came out nice. A few short intervals - 5K should flush out any crap. (manual says 9K/12 months).
For me that's July or 1,500 miles now.
@@simontheeldergeek523 Agreed. I'm in the radio business and occasionally work on tower mounted equipment. There's never been a day when I thought "what a waste of time taking all those hundreds of pics." There's been many times, however, that I've said "Thank F%#& I got a few snaps!"
Lots of times it's because I needed to check a part number or attachment config, but sometimes it's to prove to accounting that indeed, the invoice should be paid.
I’m all for semi-metallic brake pads, in the right application. As yet I’ve found no good applications for semi-metallic motor oil.
Great video 👍 When asked to look a engine it should be a paid inspection as a service and given a written assessment as to it's current condition!
This shows you the importance of assembling a surgically clean motor and checking everything carefully for anything that could be amiss.
Yup. 25 years ago I did a light Volvo B20 makeover, fitting a new 270° cam....without fitting the camshaft end bearing.
Ran sweet for 200 miles, after which one of the Conrods seemingly had a completely unexpected malfunction, exiting the lump through the side.
Still got a little bit bad conscience over that missing bearing. I simply forgot to tell the owner about it later. (I'm a different person now, luckily)
Sorry but no way in hell is that damage from the engine not being clean when assembled. Old boy ran the piss out of that motor for a couple years then fucked the guy he sold it to saying it was a new engine.
That was run well over the 40 miles that was claimed. Sludge and metal shavings alone would have been picked up by the filter. This is many miles with oil starvation.
It's not the contamination from the grinding, if this was a debris issue all the bearings would be sacked. This is a starvation issue most likely, as I stated in your previous video on the engine, and the answer to the damage is within the oil pan and pickup. Map out the oil system from pickup to the end of the last passage and it will start to make more sense why it failed the inner rod bearings.
The end rod bearing might indicate debris in the oil galleries. Also we don't know if the crank was plastigauged insuring proper clearances or the rods sized.
As an engine builder, that looks like nothing of the pan, timing kit, sump, and every other external was cleaned. That pickup tube even has a different color sealant particle stuck in it than the sealant used on the rest of the engine. This would also tell me that the customer did not prime the oiling system before the first startup either.
I suggested this to someone. "When I do an oil change , I take out the plugs and spin the engine on the starter to fill the oilways" he said I was risking damaging the engine and would tell his friends on the Vintage motorcycle club and get back to me how stupid I was , no come back at all. Would that be a good idea when doing a full rebuild ?
Sat for 3 years with no oil, assembly lube had dried out, pump not primed and took a while to prime itself. By the time the engine got oil the damage was done. Then driven hard with now semi-metallic oil.
That mini engine is a thing of beauty. I would have sold my soul for an engine swap like that when I was 18 back in the 80's 🤩
I had one built in the 90's by a so called Mini expert . Come the winter I started it up one morning and it went bang. No anti freeze in it and the block cracked but the builder with his years warranty wouldn't accept it was his fault. Cut a long story short it cost me more to repair than the original rebuild cost .
@@follyfour506 No anti freeze in it? How do you not notice that? How the heck is that the builders fault? He builds, you make sure to use proper coolant & ensure it HAS coolant.
Me too in 1977 when I tried to make my 998 cc into a 1275 cooper S !🙃
John J I would have done the same but back in the 60's. I did get my hands on a full race Downton Cooper S though which became a real money pit which I exchanged for a bog standard 998 Cooper - those were the days
Truly unbelievable. I have seen very high mileage engines and none have ever looked like that. The issue with that engine was totally avoidable! The engine deserved better owners!
I've only seen one engine that had that much glitter, and that was in my first car, a 1980 cortina 1.6l. When I stripped it for parts the oil looked like that, but that had well over 200ks on it and had been thrashed hard by the previous owner. That engine has either never had the parts cleaned before installation or has done way more mileage than hes been told
Might be time to take photos and upload them to cloud storage of every job that comes in the door as it arrives with all the found damage, and then also photos of the job as it is before the customer collects it ( inside and out , meaning just before the rocker cover goes on and the sump goes on and then of the totally completed unit) that way you can name the files according to job id and completion state and pop them all in their own job id folder this way its not only a written record of your work but a visual evidence
Learned to drive my friends 1965 , 3 speed , 289 cu. mustang early 70's ... we rebuilt that motor a couple times, in the middle of a dirt field , could never figure out why it only got 10,000 -20,000 miles before it failed ... we were all teens ... after aircraft power plant school and later wrenching as a auto tech ... it makes sense now I'm almost 60 ... 🙃
I’ve had a fair bit of experience in building engines newish and old. This one looks like it’s done high mileage and maybe oil changes have been few and/or not done very regularly. It’s a pity that some customers always want to blame someone else.
It is difficult to get the truth out of people as to what has really happened.
Let me explain what I think is going on. I work in construction, I do a lot of maintenance in peoples houses. When I go to a new customers house the man of the house can act a little oddly, especially in front of the wife.
Now for the explanation, men think they should know all about "Men things." construction, mechanics, fighting vikings." You get my point.
Now most of them know as much about fighting vikings as the do about construction or mechanical's but that ancient gene in them makes them think they know.
What really triggers them is when you point out that they know fuck all about vikings.
I don’t believe that this engine has only done 40 miles. 40 miles without oil maybe!
I had a work colleague that had a Ford escort with a BDA engine and he stripped it down and had the work carried out by an engineering company, but rebuilt it himself.
Unfortunately he didn’t clean the head after a skim and valve work.
A month later the valve buckets looked like flat discs and the whole engine was wrecked.
An expensive lesson!
I know what you mean about a box of bits, when I worked for a Rover dealership, we had a customer turn up with a cardboard box, containing the fuel injection pump from his Maestro Diesel, completely disassembled to individual component level, he asked if we could rebuild it and set it up so that he could refit it on his car himself, needless to say, we gave him his box back and directed him to the local diesel injection specialist !
I could just imagine that ! Fantastic.
And the diesel specialist would love that you had sent him!! 😁😁.
That engine has done more than 40 miles,the damage to those con rod bearings is self explanatory really oil starvation is my bet without even looking at them
I bet the 40 miles was done in two stages to and from the shop. The other 40k was done in the vehicle.
@@chrisclarke6344 yes definitely I totally agree
@@jay73jb its a definate 'con job' excuse the pun, to try and get the rebuild a bit cheaper or free.
I am loving this channel
I've done engines for about 40 years never seen rods that lose and if I had built that engine it would not have gotten out the door the mains look used just my thoughts on it. Nice videos
Typical of an over fueled engine, they ran it way to rich and thinned the oil to a point where is was no longer lubricating. They kept running it and trashed the rod bearings which then due too metal contamination trashed the main bearings. Not sure on the 40 mile claim because, an extremely rich engine that was continually run with contaminated oil will produce this same result. Of which the appearance of longer distance use by not tuning the fuel mixture, possible incorrect ignition timing and improper lube system maintenance left this little engine to tear itself apart.
Nice to hear someone like yourself who knows what they are talking about and experience too , if I ever need a rebuild I wouldn’t hesitate in contacting yourselves and I know I would not get ripped off 👍excellent video
If I ever need to have an engine rebuilt, I would like your shop to do it, you keep so calm and know what you are doing. Thank you for your videos !
That sludge doesn't show up in 40 miles. They must have run it without of oil for a while to mess up the bearings that bad. Probably forgot to put oil in it after installing the engine.
A wiped out no. 1 bearing is usually an oil starvation issue like you said. I wonder if they installed the wrong size bearings, because that was a lot of bearing material.
Here in Australia there’s no warranty unless the radiator has been serviced or replaced
And many years ago they used to also affix a metal disc using temperature calibrated wax to the back of the head and the wax was special stuff in that if the metal disc has fallen away that means she’s been overheated……. And no warranty…..
Sometimes I wonder if sludge can also be due to dodgy friction additives or additives in general……
11:30, I have disassembled engines with 100k miles, that looked like new, those bearings are trashed! It's probably rtv clogged the oil line, when using rtv, it should barely be visible, not running off the sides, when it comes to rtv on a engine, less us best! Hopefully they learned something from this, being built by someone else, and somewhat unknown, they should disassemble it, have a look and check it out, then reassemble, if all is well, then install it... And clean off all the extra rtv! But all that is my opinion, based on what I have learned over the years!
Are you sure that's the same engine you put the crank / pistons in because the state of the oil residue in the sump / head looks like 100,000 plus mIles with not enough oil changes?
I’m not an expert by any means. I agree that the engine looks to have way more than 40 miles on it. I am wondering if the problem could have been caused by a way over rich fuel mixture. The head was very dirty and the exhaust valves did not look normal to me. It looks like the combustion temperature could have been relatively low so the carbon was not cooked off the exhaust valves. If bad enough (rich) unburnt fuel could have washed oil from the cylinder walls destroying the rings and diluting the oil. The oil would still circulate and cool the parts it come in contact with but not lubricate. The bearings would not last long in that situation. Just my two cents (or is it pence?)
This was my first thought too, then I saw that sludge. Oil diluted with fuel isn't going to form the slimy sludge in the sump. At best this engine was cleaned poorly and at worst not at all.
Really enjoy your videos, top stuff, regards Howard, New Zealand
Ignoring the shredded bits the soot contamination seems amazing particularly as it is supposed to have just done done 40 miles BEFORE an oil change. The crank looks considerably cleaner than the sump, the exterior of the engine is the only part that makes the mileage credible. Looks like filthy old sump (and oil pump?) have been fitted without any cleaning. Demoralising for everyone involved....
also it looks like every single part that wasn't done by Barum looks like its just been taken off put in a pile and reinstalled with out cleaning or checking.
A little insight on the Mazda L3 engine for you. I worked for Mazda as s tech in a dealer. Reason I say I worked for Mazda is as a tech Mazda treats us as end user engineers. Anyway the L3 and LF engine s alike don't have keyways as I'm sure your aware of but what you may not know is there was a number of cases of rod bearing failures due to over torquing of rod bolts on cranks that where at the high end of the journal tolerance so what would happen was determined due to the close tolerance and thin oil heat would build to a dangerous level .if the oil was even slightly low the pressure would drop on rod 1and 2 causing a touch down . Due to this you would end up with spun bearings to locked up blocks. We found cases of rod bolts over torqued by as much as 65 ft . Why you don't hear about it is Mazda never blames a failure on there process publicly. They infact will blame an engine failure on an outside system failure like a oil cooler or filter or whatever.
Excellent read. Many thanks!
i had a keyway cut recently! 10mm x 10mm x 300mm on a 60mm x 450mm shaft..not crank btw , industrial..quite pricey work...can't imagine why they'd avoid it 😂
Yep, it's been run on a restriction in oil flow. Doubt the 40 miles. Also engines with a history like this are a tuners nightmare. They're being set up to be responsible for an engine fail.
No way any bearings could survive starvation, no way of determining where the trash came from but starvation will make a lot of trash.
Either the engine has been run more than 40mi, or it was assembled dirty and starved of oil. It wouldn't have run much longer and needs lots of parts now.
Did it ever have oil pressure, customer wasn't watching oil pressure?
As a relatively old guy whose rebuilt a lot of engines. 1. Surgically clean and plenty of lube when reassembling. 2. That engine looks like an old 100k mile 80's Pinto that's never been serviced in it's life. 40 miles lubed with lapping paste ha ha? 3. There's one component in your car that touches every other ... it's supposed to be honey coloured and runny :-) 4. What a pleasure (to me) it is to hear this young man diagnosing on sight. When you showed the valves I though, blimey ... that's rich as hell. Proper mechanics are getting very hard to find, and you Sir are one.
(4.5 ... dyno's destroy engines and transmissions ... a candle that burns twice as bright only burns half as long?)
Looking forward to the uncomfortable phone call vid!
Yup, you nail that one! on all counts. Don't know about hearing someone playing the blame game when it's obviously negligence on the clown who's trying to pull a fast one on shop. Some folks just can't OWN their own screw-ups, so they go looking for anybody to Blame instead of learning from them. Big old smile on the pinto engine comment, only I was thinking 70s Chevy Vega. 50-50 HUH
@@tonysteppan8495 Cheers! The pinto was very hard engine to break. I remember doing a really quick fix on one. Scrap yards were full of them anyway so getting one was never an issue. It broke two compression rings. Gave it a quick set of cord rings and new shells ... don't think I even took it out of the car. It did another 100k ha ha. Should have added point 5. Put things back where they came from, like rockers valves etc if you're not replacing them. We used to grind out ports, stick in angry cams, all sorts of things. Quite fun ... and on a really tight budget. We had an lot of cam belt snaps, they were open to stones and things, just a tin cover. Valves were expensive so a mate had a lathe, heat them up, straighten them with a DTI, temper in the sink (my dear old Mum didn't like that). Re lap .. good to go.
I kind of started reliving it all when my kids started to drive, they got old cars, showed them how to take a head off , decoke, re lap the valves etc.
Just sold my Omega B, 2.6 V6 2002.. 4 cam shafts ... what a beautifully smooth balanced engine that was, and quite short, almost cute.
The only engines I've never had to do anything engine wise on were 20E and 30E Opel Manta / Monza engines. Cam in head, chain driven? Keep the oil clean with good filters, and they are pretty much Immortal, so well oiled. (1990's!)
I've grown up now ... so outside is a 1996 Z28, with 52k miles on it from new (in the UK)... it's not even run yet ha ha. Had her 6 years now? I'm not anti mapping, I just don't see the point. My way is more cc, a low stressed large V8 playing it's music for everyone to hear. Sorry to curse but christ it's quick! Sorry to go on.
@@black5f No Problem, my first car was a 1958 T Bird. $125.00 was a lot back then. My Dad help out getting it home due to a disputed payment on a head gasket set. Not running mind you, so I was told if I wanted to drive it, I had to fix it. My Dad bought parts, but I had to do the work. He taught me skills that have served well, even if I thought it was too much work at the time. We had OPELs that my dad bought through Buick back in the late 60s a rally coupe and Kadett One had a 1900 engine the other was 1. something, both were bullet proof. That was my 1st stick shift.
My brother and I both had Opel mantas with black out hoods, I believe they were also rally optioned. We put headers and side exhaust on both, but my bro ditched the carb for a Holley 500 2 barrel messed with the timing just to end up with a cracked block! Aw the learning curve was ruff.
Many a butter knife was lost to making scraper blades, not to mention being heated with a torch to make mini prying tools for lord knows what! Like you stated Poor MOM! I worked at the Van Nuys C-P-C plant for 2.5 years building Camaros and firebirds 1986-1988.They shut down and moved to Canada in 91 I believe. The Lt-1 is a sweet engine. I've gone backwards and have a 90 vett with only a L-98 engine as my fair-weather car.91 was a Lt-1 but the 90 was hard to pass up 27.000 miles. but little service had been done. But I can do that! Your 96 Z28 would truly scare the life out me with you being in the left lane and all. My turn to run on! CHEERS and miles of smiles in that Z28!
@@tonysteppan8495 Cheers! I took her out yesterday for a little run as the weather wasn't too bad. Keep the battery in good nick etc. My only niggle with her ... there's hardly any room under the hood, rather crammed. So far all I've done on her is WP, front seals and rad. L98 is a fine solid engine ... and easier to work on in a Vet!
@@black5f Howdy, 4th gen Camaro with a LT-4 engine. Good Hp and torque the only - was the Opti spark Disturber under the water Pump with the drain weep hole. Same with the Vett for 96. At least it's OBD 2, not OBD1 like mine. Mine is like a commadore 64 version. Pong anyone? One fault at a time with another fault lying in wait to get fixed. Oh, the good old days A. Is your Z run with Mobil 1 oil or do you run a blend mixture? I know that older cars than ours are sensitive to newer oil mixtures due the zinc content. plus, seals will let loose at the most inopportune time. Your seal may just be a common issue with that engine? Mine is the upper intake has RTV in the front and rear with gasket mat. along the head. My rear seal was toast. Not an easy repair but doable. Lotts of stuff to remove and replace while its apart. Hope you don't have to go through an Opi spark replacement! Way too much fun. I try to get an 8 to10 kilometer run in every other week depending on weather? To keep seals and injectors wet. Our fuel is rubbish so fuel stabilizer is a must for any prolong sitting. Sorry to babble! You and Your's have a Safe and Merry Holidays! One last thing Barum Engines you tubes are interesting to watch! I'm sure the GOOD engine shops state side have the same kind of Day-to-Day Going on, but these guys are thorough and seem to think things through not rushing into the next one. CHEERS
I've taken apart Chevy small blocks I've built after 100,000 miles and they were in better condition and cleaner inside than that! I have the original 262.5cid (4.3L) V8 from my '76 Monza on a stand in my garage after 100,000 miles since I "built" it (as in modded). I'll tear it down one day but I bet rings and valve stem seals is all it needs. 350 in the car now... ;)
Definitely looks to be more than 40 miles on that motor. Also looks like it wasn't tuned correctly due to how cold the combustion temps would have been to cause that wet/black build up on the head. Also could cause gas diluted oil that would contribute to bearing failure.
Good place to check would be the cylinder bores, only 40 miles and those cylinders should be clean, good cross hatching and not much variation in size from 3 years ago. New owner is looking for someone to blame as he doesn't want to admit he's been taken advantage of in buying this used motor.
Wow what a week.
Loving the Mini engine and the BMW M3.
The first thing I was taught when I started in the Trade was Cleanliness is next to Godliness.
That Nissan motor and no1 big end what a mess.
Keep the videos coming.
Bon weekend.
Someone was being economical with the truth. Forty miles my eye !
The seller might have "forgotten" some zeros in the "40" because in some ways it looks like a high mileage engine.
Any indications that it is even the engine you worked on? Do the dates, brand, and size of the bearings match up to the invoice?
We had a set of stamps and would put a unique code on each engine or head or part which was recorded against invoice, that stopped the part switch scam.
Exactly
James said pop by and have a look at Your channel. Looking forward to watching.
Very thorough and logical analysis.
Only done 40 Miles--Pig's arse! Due to glazed bore I would suspect cylinder washing due to overfuelling, probable oil dilution and heavy running loads resulting in damaged bearings. I do not see this as the tuners fault either, more like the previous owner has played engine rebuilder without the requisite knowledge. No way this has been done in 40 miles unless he ran it in using sewing machine oil!!
there is something you didnt mention or check, that would be the bores, when you tune an engine for more power you must re-gap the piston rings, the increase in power makes the in cylinder temps much higher and the rings will expand more and butt up against the gap and then deflect, in other words there is no where for the expanded ring to go so it can break the top of the piston off in extreme case's.
ive seen it so many times after a tune they get a certain mileage from the engine then doom, the last one i looked at was an astra sri turbo tuned up to around 300hp, it went like stink, he got about 5000 miles out of it, then it got a misfire due to low compression, i asked about the rings, he said he didnt know the tuner never said anything about rings, we took the head off and the bores where junk, one of the rings had chipped at the end and the whole block was scrap....
Could have resleeved no?
@@kx250braap maybe, problem was hard piston ring particles has been in the engine and circulated, this caused damage to the every journal and bearing including the head, the car was sold on to someone who had a replacement engine.
Nah, if you don't regap, you simply blow the piston and it's obvious.
Great vid ! 👌
MINI engine does indeed look very nice!
Your best video yet really enjoyed it, the details of work done and the chance of seeing some of the vehicles the engines will go in, the examination of the Nissan engine and the story behind it was fascinating 👏. Can I ask what do you think of using engine flush prior to oil change and what flush and procedure would you recommend?
My question: what is the goop? Is it just old oil deposits, or it is it a slurry of oil and very fine metal? If the later it might have run 40 miles with basically no oil in it.
Definitely the slurry. Or he tried to use anti-seize as engine oil.
I love watching your videos and i have to say that engine was never cleaned as you know clean oil clean engine will last a long time keep up the good work 😊
The last time I came across gunk like that was after stripping a block that had been running with Winns oil additive for a year, and yes, it makes an engine quiet but it soon blocks the pickup mesh once it gets gummy because someone added it to synthetic, next in line then is the addition of the filings due to dry bearings. The customer seems to be a bit suspect if you ask me, 40 miles? yeah, not having that unless that main block was untouched for many more miles previously. Thanks for the video, maybe it will help to show how it is not good to try and con the guys who do it for a living 👍
I had a sr20de with 220k miles that looked cleaner inside than that engine.
Always synthetic oil never more than 4k oil changes.
I have a DE as well, also very clean. To be fair though, the non-turbo SRs aren't even remotely stressed so they do tend to last forever.
I feel it would be a good idea to film the job as you go along, wouldn't take too long but worth it in the end.
Or even just some build photos, good to show customer work done (but more importantly to have a point of reference if needed in future)
@@beeftec5862 also by showing the customer the photos they know you have a record, makes it harder for them to tamper and hope to shift the blame should anything go wrong.
I think the first owner run it like crazy. It started a bottom end knock. Pulled the motor, cleaned the outside and sold it to to buy a replacement. Full knowing he could not reuse the crank and block after the damage. Thats my belief. Without a warranty. If I can not tear it down and look, it better be in a running state. I have bought 3 motors from friends just to find destroyed blocks and the loss of friends. Not the best of situations.
Maintaining high standards of workmanship pays off in the warranty case. It is also the perfect example of "shortcuts are not always the shortest". Keep the videos flowing and thanks for sharing.
Ah, love that glitter paint! The only way it sustained this catastrophic failure and level of varnish is likely by a severe lack of oil pressure. It looked cooked (and coked), and I suspect it smells like it too. You mentioned no excessive cylinder wear or ring ridge, only glazing (heat). How many miles without oil pressue would it take? There was no coolant in the cylinders and no sign of a blown head gasket, so... I was not the buid, yours or his. I have seen engines from trashy rebuilders still go 100k (and look much better), even if they have a few grooves in the bearings. Those bearings looked melted, not just worn, and journals did not reflect their level of destruction. Perhaps they should have filled the oil a wee bit sooner.
People tend to underestimate the amount of time they've run an engine as well as the running conditions when they seek out a warranty. Even if they are NOT trying to be dishonest, the memory can play tricks. The proof is in the actual wear in the engine, and if the machine parts are ground and running true to acceptable tolerances (lack of defects). As we know, letting an engine sit around for long periods is not good for the metals inside or the oil, and those conditions as well need to be figured in. What kind of temperature variations did it see etc regarding condensation forming.
I agree that all that sludge didn't accumulate after 40 miles. Either the mileage was greater, or it was never cleaned during the rebuild.
The heavy plant I drive has engine hours not milage . Maybe vehicles should be fitted with engine hrs as well as milage .
Love these videos very interesting
Are these press in cylinder liners, if so did you press them out to check for cracks in the liner, seen it in the passed and it gives the impression the head gaskets blowing, the gunge looks as though it's been steaming up in there.
Surely all parts should look almost new with clean ish oil. I recon the guy meant 40 thousand miles not just 40 😂😂😁
Nice work on mini engine, to me it looks like that’s done more than 40 miles for that damage also to have so much play in the big end. He needs to talk to the person he bought from?
great video. You cannot lie about the open engine. Somebody is trying to blame the mechanic. But the story inside a 40 mile engine doesn't lie.
I'm a retired engine builder/machinist and agree with everything you have said on this one, the final assembler was the issue here.
Looks like someone started that engine with no oil in it. Realized what they did. Took it to the tuner hoping he would detonate it and get him to pay for it.
Engine has sat somewhere for 3 years? That can't be good.
I can't believe anyone would put that engine back together with all that crud still in the sump.
I don't know what else you saw when you took it apart but it looks like an engine that has been run 40000 miles without an oil change.
And then it fails and they quickly change the oil.
Your record keeping is impeccable and this shows why it needs to be. I think the original owner half-assed it together and when it started making noise he sold it by saying you had built the lower end. He made money on your reputation. I feel bad for the new owner, but caveat emptor (translated: let the buyer beware). I won't build part of an engine for this exact reason. You repair a turn signal bulb and they blame you for a transmission failure. Keep up the good work, I want to meet you when I'm in the UK next summer.
looking at those main bearings It ate a lot of swarf from something which probable made it sound terrible but it was ignored until it had ground all the bearing material out of all of the big end and main bearing shells! I knew all the bearings were gone as soon as I saw the amount of grey sludge in the bottom of the sump, there is only one thing that looks like that and that is bearing materiel.
IF it was run in for 40 miles he must of red lined it all the time
it would be difficult to believe that those shells could look like that even with bad oil in 40miles, this looks like a blame game.
SR20 very strong reliable motor. Was the oil pump checked for tolerance(s) / wear before reinstallation, or replaced with new? Or did the client install old oil pump or supply and install new oil pump but installed wrong pump ? I understand there are different pumps for different versions of the SR20 S13, S14, S15? If client did the oil pump work then shop completely off the hook.
I got taught a lesson having stripped and replaced the timing chain on my Honda CB250 G5 in the early 1980’s laboriously cleaned absolutely everything so it was sparkling. Trouble was I’d been given a bag of industrial wipes/rags that weren’t lint free. Engine back in the bike, new oil, took it up the road for a final test and the camshaft seized solid. There was a tiny mat of fibres in the oil pickup. I was gutted, couldn’t afford to get the roller bearing conversion done, sold the bike in bits. Taught me a massive lesson.
40 miles could be true it just depends where, on a drag strip that’s a friggin lot of runs.
That oil looks far to old and thick.
My old wrx loves the 5w40 every few months,
it’s not what’s recommenced but with it being thin on start up helps a lot and not thick when warm helps it not to blow the gaskets all the time
So is the New Engine owner a friend of the old owner ? I say friend lightly as I have had "friends" like that before .
You know the ones that aren't in the slightest bit a friend.
That oil looks like sludge from when you maybe have had water near it ,
Is it possible an engine flush additive did this ?
i agree. looks like the guy who originally refitted the sump just bolted the old one back on without cleaning it. so the oil he put in just shifted the gloop and up round the oilways it went.
I have been in the trade a long time ,,served my apprenticeship from 1970 and no way has it done just 40 miles ,you bring so many great memories back for me , you are amazing , great so see another technician at work , reminds me when I was given an engine a loads of bits of an engine of a Aston Martin v 8 and did everything like you every part checked and cleaned using graphite grease on all moving parts, just till the oil pump got oil through all engine ,,, love to see a true professional at work
Had an engine similar the SR. Engine had been rebuilt before i got it but not ran. I took it that it was assembled correctly, which it may have been but unknown to me it had been stood for 4 years outside. Although the engine ran for sometime when i used it, one bigend did let go. Looking at all the bearing they look like the ones in the SR. The bearing shell surfaces had welded to the crank whilst stood as it must have only been built up with oil. My fault for not running the oil pump up first i guess??
Something in my mind just does not add up. I have built and taken apart engines that have gone south. (Destroyed themselves) I have never seen that thick dirty muck in the pan like you are showing. Even when these engines destroyed themselves ie: Spun bearings, burned themselves to the crankshaft, the oil was still clean but there were debris everywhere in the pan in the pickup but NO dirty sludge anywhere. ???? I wonder what the oil filter looks like? That will tell you if the oil has 40 miles on it or if it has 30,000 miles on it.
Pcv
Do the numbers match your invoice ? are the bearings oversized, that’s way to much sludge for even 1000 miles - SR20DET ?
Hello looks like 20 000 miles without an oil change to me ! Ha Keep up the good work 👍
I have seen oil go like that in just an hour running but it was due to some pretty nasty contaminants. That would not have happened if the engine was stripped down to the last nut and bolt then gone through an ultrasonic cleaner. Not doing that can cause extremely rapid wear and tear but I have never seen bottom end bearings go in less than 200 miles. Many decades ago when I was engine tuning for a proddy motorcycle team I used to get through a toothbrush per rebuild.
we need to come with a name for the male version of a Karen.... he bought a used engine probably thinking he stole it at the price he paid... then finds out that somewhere someone put a dent in the great deal he got and wants someone to blame instead of owning up to the fact he is the one that bought it with out doing the research. if the seller told him you built the engine he could have called to verify just what you had done with the engine. great video!
I agree with other comments. That is NOT a 40 mile engine. The amount of sludge in the sump and the color tell us that. First thing is DO NOT USE RTV as a gasket material. That is a rookie mistake. I have built engines professionally since 1972 and have seen too many engines where the RTV worms broke off on the inside of the engine and clogged an oil passage. At 11:57 you can see the worms on the inside of where the sump bolts on (we call it the pan rail). Those long thin ribbons of RTV that squished out when the sump was installed are doing nothing but waiting to break off and get in the oil. We use old school #2 Permatex or #4 Yamabond. The Yamabond is used by Yamaha and as we like to say "have you ever seen a Japanese motor cycle leak oil?". How about never.
At 11:35 I do not understand why the main bearing inserts are loose in the caps. I see evidence of the debris in the oil and the bearings are trashed. But the inserts should still be firmly set into the caps. Are those the correct bearing inserts or is the housing bore incorrect?
We had a Mercedes 190SL owner call us asking why there was oil coming out of the exhaust pipe at the rear of the car. We said that was impossible and asked the history of the engine. Owner claimed it was a 0 time newly installed engine but was built 5 years earlier. Why the delay in installation? Seems the idiot owner (a lawyer) was slow to pay the restoration shop. Now he has the car and his local mechanic shop is big on synthetic oil and sells the idiot lawyer a synthetic oil change on an engine designed for conventional oil. We are brought in to consult. Tear down shows during the 5 years of sitting in an outside storage shed the rings rusted and pitted the bores. With rings not seated, the syn oil was so slippery it would not allow the rings to seat and oil poured past them. Was incorrect break-in oil used in the Nissan?
And document every job good. To make sure you have easy proof of what has been done in your workshop.
@Barum Engines, I am surprised that all the engines you rebuild are not covered/Sealed up? Surely it should be a clinically clean environment? I wouldn't want my freshly rebuilt engine sitting there uncovered in a workshop getting covered in dust and crap?
Perhaps they were uncovered for the videos...
@@TheEulerID Good point mate.
you need better customers.
Hes far to kind with them, they tried the same tricks 20 years ago when i was in trade. Probably trying to avoid bad internet reviews i this day and age.
As the owner of a restored 1275 classic mini I love to see other mini engines.
When I rebuilt my Mk5 cortina engine everything was cleaned before re assembly.Done 600 km now and the oil is as clean as when it went in so yes I would suspect that engine was never cleaned before re assembly.
You do not normally see engine repairing to this level done anymore . I served my apprenticeship in a Ford main dealership starting in the 70s , this kind of work was normal for most garages at the time . If I were repairing an engine now to this level I would always renew the oil pump as they wear out also . Another issue we found when getting cranks reground and renewing the crank shells was that sometimes blocks ,rods and caps could be oversize and bearing shell outer diameters did vary . This could catch out even the best Technician .
What are the benefits of straight cut gears please?
Do you record serial numbers on the engines you build and list them on the receipt
Sorry, but I know nothing about the Mini motor you started the video with. What are the hex-drive looking parts pointing both directions low on the side of the block?