I think a con with a 2 piece flex shaft in combo with high voltage system is the wiggle room or play the shaft has when it meets the drive collar, small vibrations can equate to bigger issues down the line. It happened to mine, as the flex cable turned into a pretzel and whipped around the inside the hull causing a lot of damage lol. Great explanation though 🤙🏽 1 piece for the win! Maintenance for the win!
It’s worth saying that if you get the shafts mentioned, you’ll need to: 1. Cut them at least 10.25” from the threaded straight shaft end back to the flex end. The extra length depends on if you’re running a higher pitched prop, multiple nuts like a lock nut and a bullet nut on the end. 2. You’ll have to grind/ taper the cut tip and solder the flex shaft wires. Clean with alcohol, but the heat will burn away oils & other contaminants 3. Install and make sure each side is even. Test fit the drive dog and leave a few mm space gap. Then you’ll have to Dremel the flat spot for the drive dog. I applied w/ thread locker. Great shafts though. Thanks for the info!
Do you think I could divide a third line off the water intake to cool extra electronics? Or will it compromise the one inlet cooling system? Thank you.
Hey quick question what receiver do u recommend?? I got a flysky gt5 for it thinking it would work best but not sure if props are moving the right way with it it seem like the both running the same direction
Great video, I ran mine for the first time this past weekend, did the one piece flex shaft and installed according to the TFL instructions, two min into the run, Destruction!! followed the instructions to the T and everything shows props turning inward, I put the Boat in the water and checked the throttle to make sure it was right, hit forward and it ent backwards, logged into the radio and reversed it so it was going forward when depressing the trigger, now I'm going to have to battling TFL to replace the destroyed parts, they already did the shafts were rotating backwards and sent me a pic of how they should be rooting and it's not the same as the instructions, now have to repair a boat with less then 2 min on it because I followed there instructions. any advise for cutting out the drive shaft support and repairing the Transit where the tube spun due to the flex cable becoming a bird nest? Thanks~
Great vid real good info I saved it for future reference. Iam looking into the tfl sd just wondering your thoughts from experience if it’s worth the money. I have 2 DT E51 53”, miss geico 36” and a traxxas m41 just looking to and to my collection hoping you’ll give me some help in my decision. Thx
They are a standard 4.76mm or 3/16 inch, you can get some from Steven at offshore electrics. You can also get universal cables like TFL 510b50 and 510b50R and cut them to the proper length. You need one of each.
Hey squirrel! What props would you recommend for this boat with a stock 6s x2 setup? I wanted to know where do you get your one piece shaft from? Would you recommend a dual pickup?
Abc 1714 or 1715, shafts are getting harder to find, tfl has some that you can cut, ose had some you can also try bonzi sports they are not on their website but the guy told me they had some in stock. For speed runs its not necessary, I run single, for normal running or bashing it wouldn't hurt to upgrade.
If you have them already then use them, they run a little warm...so temp often. If not then get 1715, (5mph difference) then if the 1715 isnt enough for you then get some 1717 for speed runs
@@secretsquirrel1942 Yeah I will tell you that I was thinking the 1716 because I think I may use a Seaking 180 and a 4074 2000kv Leopard motor I figure that that setup should swing the 1716 a little easier.
Another thing to consider is how much room you have, bigger props need tons of room also the smaller prop will accelerate faster and will preform better on a smaller body of water.
from what I understand 4092 motors are recommended in this class. In comparison to the 3674 it adds weight and the 3674 do just fine. what is your take on bigger motors? Worth it? Or you loos agility?
Another thing to think of when using two piece or 1 piece shafts is where the load is placed on the boat. With 1 piece it's at the motor, with 2 piece it's at the strut. Which is better will always be debated. With a 1 piece you have to allow space between the drive dog and strut. If not, you you hit the trigger and the flex cable tightens under load and you would have binding where the drive dog hits the strut face. With a two piece system, the flex is able to tighten inside of the prop shaft because it floats in the shaft and not soldered. That's why they can put the drive dog right up against the white Teflon washer.
I like info about it im just getting into this hobby,waiting for mine to come on bangood comes 120amps seaking ,Motor: SSS 3674 2075KV brushless motor can u help me wat lipo battery to use plz ?or even wat u reackonmend ?thank u for video helpful for people like me
Thank you for watching You can use two 4s 5000mah or two 6s 5000mah, you can use bigger mah as long as it fits, HRB 6s 6000mah fit no problem, it just depends on how fast you want to go. More S is more speed More mah is longer runtime.
@@secretsquirrel1942 Thank you replyn back so if I understood you right,each side 6s 6000mah 50c/100c rating and it be safe for stock esc 120amps. Keep vids coming its very good learning and maybe how to program the esc when first turn on the boat.Thank u again appreciate .
This motor would not be my first choice for a 6s single motor application but on a twin motor application they share the load there is less stress on them, two motors pushing one boat, the motors will stay cooler vs one motor pushing the same boat. There is hundreds of these boats running 6s successfully, if you are concerned install a dual cooling rudder they are about 30 bucks. I have been over 113mph on these motors with single inlet cooling, I also run the same set of sss motors in my zelos twin without an issue and that boat has been 103mph so I don't exactly take it easy on them.
65-75mph(TFL 4219, Octura x442, , TFL 4519) 80-90mph(stock miss geico36 props, abc1714, abc1715.) You can also use abc1614,abc1615 if you are worried about temps.
Well i kinda did just not in one video, watch all the videos starting with the first one, that was with the drives all the way down 76mph, everything after that I moved the drives up a very small amount in every video, especially watch the 80-95mph videos I talk about it in the vid. The ideo of the vid is great but setting will be different depending on the goal for the boat, there is more then one correct answer......if you know what i mean.
Zonda 105mph pass here:
ruclips.net/video/lZYuhVULcxc/видео.html
Great information!
Keep the awesome content coming!
Thanks my friend for the continued support
Secret squirrel be knowing things. Great video bud !
Thanks my friend
Great info I'm not looking for a world record but maybe an 80 or 90 mile an hour boat with some sort of dependability would be great
What a good video! Thank you!
Thanks my friend
Ordered mine this morning, great info!
Thank you
Thanks buddy! I would have loved to know all of this before i got my zonda 🥳👍🏼
No problem
I think a con with a 2 piece flex shaft in combo with high voltage system is the wiggle room or play the shaft has when it meets the drive collar, small vibrations can equate to bigger issues down the line. It happened to mine, as the flex cable turned into a pretzel and whipped around the inside the hull causing a lot of damage lol.
Great explanation though 🤙🏽
1 piece for the win!
Maintenance for the win!
Yes sir, I completely agree with you
and thank you.
Thanks for sharing bro! Ive subbed
Thank you for watching....
It’s worth saying that if you get the shafts mentioned, you’ll need to:
1. Cut them at least 10.25” from the threaded straight shaft end back to the flex end. The extra length depends on if you’re running a higher pitched prop, multiple nuts like a lock nut and a bullet nut on the end.
2. You’ll have to grind/ taper the cut tip and solder the flex shaft wires. Clean with alcohol, but the heat will burn away oils & other contaminants
3. Install and make sure each side is even. Test fit the drive dog and leave a few mm space gap. Then you’ll have to Dremel the flat spot for the drive dog. I applied w/ thread locker.
Great shafts though. Thanks for the info!
Yes
I really like your detail oriented post.
You don't have to taper the end but it sure makes it easier to install if tapered slightly.
the 1 piece shafts from Offshore electrics are supposed to be a direct fit.....no cutting?????
Thanks for the tip...what is the screw call on the runder?
How did you build your Boat shelves ? Those are perfect for my boats. Id love to put some on my wall.
Do you think I could divide a third line off the water intake to cool extra electronics? Or will it compromise the one inlet cooling system? Thank you.
Hey quick question what receiver do u recommend?? I got a flysky gt5 for it thinking it would work best but not sure if props are moving the right way with it it seem like the both running the same direction
Dear Sir, what type of, if any, reinforcements have you done to your Zonda and Zelos to survive the speeds you are pushing?
I zonda keeps tearing the liner at the top right before the collet. Also makes a screeching noise. It's greased, but maybe not enough?
Great video, I ran mine for the first time this past weekend, did the one piece flex shaft and installed according to the TFL instructions, two min into the run, Destruction!! followed the instructions to the T and everything shows props turning inward, I put the Boat in the water and checked the throttle to make sure it was right, hit forward and it ent backwards, logged into the radio and reversed it so it was going forward when depressing the trigger, now I'm going to have to battling TFL to replace the destroyed parts, they already did the shafts were rotating backwards and sent me a pic of how they should be rooting and it's not the same as the instructions, now have to repair a boat with less then 2 min on it because I followed there instructions. any advise for cutting out the drive shaft support and repairing the Transit where the tube spun due to the flex cable becoming a bird nest? Thanks~
Thanks
Leave the support in place, if you can, reposition the stuffing tube to the correct angle then glue back in place.
Do you lubricate the entire shaft, or just the flex? Getting a Zonda soon. Never used 2pc drives before.
I would grease both
Great vid real good info I saved it for future reference. Iam looking into the tfl sd just wondering your thoughts from experience if it’s worth the money. I have 2 DT E51 53”, miss geico 36” and a traxxas m41 just looking to and to my collection hoping you’ll give me some help in my decision. Thx
TFL boats preform better then most RTR boats Popeye, pursuit,zonda, cheetah there all good.👍👍
Thx you
What Props would you recommend to start with for more speed, over the stock ones?.
I like these
ruclips.net/video/rUYuZSYOdsc/видео.html
You can also try abc 1614 or 1615
Where I can get my shaft for my zonda i been looking on some places but am not really sure what mm are they
They are a standard 4.76mm or 3/16 inch, you can get some from Steven at offshore electrics.
You can also get universal cables like TFL 510b50 and 510b50R and cut them to the proper length. You need one of each.
For the 510B50R is the end thread reversed? wondering if I need reversed thread bullet for that side thanks man
That's a great question, no both sides thread in the same direction.
@@secretsquirrel1942 thanks for the help, even the peeps over at TFL in CN weren’t sure about that one lol
No problem 👍👍
Hey squirrel! What props would you recommend for this boat with a stock 6s x2 setup? I wanted to know where do you get your one piece shaft from? Would you recommend a dual pickup?
Abc 1714 or 1715, shafts are getting harder to find, tfl has some that you can cut, ose had some you can also try bonzi sports they are not on their website but the guy told me they had some in stock.
For speed runs its not necessary, I run single, for normal running or bashing it wouldn't hurt to upgrade.
@@secretsquirrel1942 Ok I was thinking in the same neighborhood 1716. Thanks for the advice.
If you have them already then use them, they run a little warm...so temp often.
If not then get 1715, (5mph difference) then if the 1715 isnt enough for you then get some 1717 for speed runs
@@secretsquirrel1942 Yeah I will tell you that I was thinking the 1716 because I think I may use a Seaking 180 and a 4074 2000kv Leopard motor I figure that that setup should swing the 1716 a little easier.
Another thing to consider is how much room you have, bigger props need tons of room also the smaller prop will accelerate faster and will preform better on a smaller body of water.
from what I understand 4092 motors are recommended in this class. In comparison to the 3674 it adds weight and the 3674 do just fine. what is your take on bigger motors? Worth it? Or you loos agility?
Bigger motor will have More torque better acceleration less runtime.
@@secretsquirrel1942 I was wondering if the extra weight kills some of the top speed.
Another thing to think of when using two piece or 1 piece shafts is where the load is placed on the boat. With 1 piece it's at the motor, with 2 piece it's at the strut. Which is better will always be debated.
With a 1 piece you have to allow space between the drive dog and strut. If not, you you hit the trigger and the flex cable tightens under load and you would have binding where the drive dog hits the strut face.
With a two piece system, the flex is able to tighten inside of the prop shaft because it floats in the shaft and not soldered. That's why they can put the drive dog right up against the white Teflon washer.
Sure
But even with that being said, I still prefer the 1 piece with a small gap at the drive dog.
I like info about it im just getting into this hobby,waiting for mine to come on bangood comes 120amps seaking ,Motor: SSS 3674 2075KV brushless motor can u help me wat lipo battery to use plz ?or even wat u reackonmend ?thank u for video helpful for people like me
Thank you for watching
You can use two 4s 5000mah or two 6s 5000mah, you can use bigger mah as long as it fits,
HRB 6s 6000mah fit no problem, it just depends on how fast you want to go.
More S is more speed
More mah is longer runtime.
@@secretsquirrel1942 Thank you replyn back so if I understood you right,each side 6s 6000mah 50c/100c rating and it be safe for stock esc 120amps. Keep vids coming its very good learning and maybe how to program the esc when first turn on the boat.Thank u again appreciate .
Yes 6s each side, I like the turnigy graphene panther 5000mah 75c 👍👍
You still need to keep an eye on temps
@@secretsquirrel1942 Thank you very much grateful for ur help.keep up the vids.Maybe later on down the track I can join the 100 mile club!!
How are you getting these boats to survive on 6S what am I missing? TFL North America says they will burn up, the motor’s are not rated for 6S.
This motor would not be my first choice for a 6s single motor application but on a twin motor application they share the load there is less stress on them, two motors pushing one boat, the motors will stay cooler vs one motor pushing the same boat.
There is hundreds of these boats running 6s successfully, if you are concerned install a dual cooling rudder they are about 30 bucks.
I have been over 113mph on these motors with single inlet cooling, I also run the same set of sss motors in my zelos twin without an issue and that boat has been 103mph so I don't exactly take it easy on them.
@@secretsquirrel1942 ok cool I just installed the dual cooling rubber. What is a good set of props to run, not looking to push it to hard?
65-75mph(TFL 4219, Octura x442, , TFL 4519)
80-90mph(stock miss geico36 props, abc1714, abc1715.)
You can also use abc1614,abc1615 if you are worried about temps.
What props do you recommend for the 20mph-30mph range? Just got my boat.
Stock props and 3s =30mph, stock props and 6s will get you almost 60, 4s is a good starting point and will go about 40mph.
@@secretsquirrel1942 will I have to get really expensive props to reach 80ish mph?
No a set of octura 442 will get you 70-75 maybe more, a set of stock miss geico 36 props should get you 80-85, a set of prepped abc1715 can go 90+.
You should do a video on adjusting the stingers/struts on the TFL Zondas. If you haven't already. I've looked but could've over looked it.
Well i kinda did just not in one video, watch all the videos starting with the first one, that was with the drives all the way down 76mph, everything after that I moved the drives up a very small amount in every video, especially watch the 80-95mph videos I talk about it in the vid.
The ideo of the vid is great but setting will be different depending on the goal for the boat, there is more then one correct answer......if you know what i mean.