Nice project. Nice for ARMA, but certainly has me thinking, of a solution for my DCS modules. Was wondering why you choose an encoder over a hall sensor for the main collective position?
My EE SR project 55 years ago was about 1/10th this difficult and took 6 months. The 741 OP amp had just been invented. The PDP8 computer had been in the lab for about 1yr. Must be wonderful to be a EE student in this day and time. Progress now easily made at warp speed.
after paying 150USD in importation taxes on a 150USD joystick im looking for a cheap alternative to complete my setup! This really is outstanding content, not only a great video but you even made cad files and code public... I just wish more people looking into buying a collective for a flight sim could reach this video or even buy this as a complete kit. Like you said, buying a collective is really expensive, especially when you live in a country where customs are basically legal robbers.
Have you thought about adding a twist grip? I know arma 3 would probably allow it too as you can switch flight modes to realistic or advanced controls.
I think I solved the problem... You just gave me an idea. Buy 2nd joystick, mount at 90 degree angle by your left hand, map controls. You then have a collective with neutral position built in, a twist throttle, and hotas built in. Two Logitech 3d pro's would do it for $100.00 or less. Love what you did but I don't have a 3d printer.
Hel(l)o. Thank you for this very interesting content. I can see you use a (relatively expensive) encoder that gives you 128 PPR. What's the point, since you could have used a dirt cheap potentiometer on an analog input? There has to be something I don't know, since I'm not in electronics at all. The fact is, I ordered a teensy LC and a few potentiometers to do roughly the same thing (flight controls). To me, the encoder seems rather pointless if you're not going to use it for more than one revolution, whereas a 10 bit reading on a potentiometer could give you a far better resolution (and some room to filter the reading if needed). I don't mean to criticise anything, because I don't have the knowledge to do so in this field, but perhaps someone could explain me. I must be missing something, here. For the mechanical side, which is more my thing, congrats! This is a nice design. I might add some counterweight myself, if I had to use it. This way, the friction plates would have almost nothing to do, appart from giving you the resisting effort you want (no need to deal with the weight, thus you reduce the friction needed and end up with a better feeling, theoretically, and no difference between the push and the pull efforts). Maybe I'd try to implement some kind of adjustable neutral position, but that would become a bit more complicated ;-) But in the end, I'm just typing, and you DID the thing.
I’m in the middle of building a throttle quadrant with 3 linear slide pots plenty of buttons and toggles and an arduino micro, this is my first time even looking at an arduino and I have no idea what the frig I’m doing regarding the code! I have the pots in the analog inputs and the switches wired as a grid into the arduino but the code is blowing my mind and it’s still blank 😭
one big reason to choose an optical encoder over a potentiometer is no touch. After a while the wiper contact gets dirty and will fritz out on you. The sealed case on the encoder means it will continue to work until the LED burns out.
As someone wanting to build one of these, as soon as you mentioned 3D printed parts, my heart sank. I don't have, and can't afford a 3D printer. So i'd have to get the parts printed and mailed to me, which won't be cheap, or buy a 3D printer, which would cost the same as a premade collective. I was totally onboard and looking for all the mechanical parts until you mentioned those bits. :( Back to my own build i guess. I was just going to use a ~22mm dowel rod, as the collective rod. Why the 22mm dowel rod? So i can put an e-bike/electric scooter throttle on the end to control the helicopter's RPM. My biggest problem is the friction bit. I need a way to add the friction to keep it in place.
You might check if your local library has a 3d printer. A lot of them are doing that these days. Where I live a local air and space museum also has a maker space.
use a spring washer to press against the handle at the rotation point. I'd think about five pounds would do it. Spring washer are curved washers that are thin the tighter you squeeze it the heavy the pressure.
This friction parts are flat so you can easly cut it with coping saw from plywood or mdf. Same apply to big cog. Small cog will be harder to make but nothing impossible. You can simply open stl file in 3d builder (free microsoft software) and print it on paper. Then You glue this to some playwood and cut. 3d builder also can make cross-section of part so more complex elements are possible to make by layering few cutouts - just like in 3d printing process :)
Brandon has a good point, a makerspace would be a great resource for printing the parts. If you are interested in this sort of thing it may be a good connection to make anyway!
I'm in the process of designing/building a helicopter collective too. I've decided to use Hall Sensors for the collective instead of an encoder, and using Atmel 328P with V-USB's USB implementation.
"I love to fly in simulators, especially helicopters." Then why are you showing that in ArmA? Building a DIY collective for ArmA just doesn't compute...
iv made a few button boxes and im learning cad too, im interested in designing and making a collective too at some point! iv never used hall effect or arduiino and hvavnt got a clue. how many buttons and axis will the arduino take?
I'm 4 years late but still have a Question: - Is this printed with a 0.4 nozzle? - Why the complicated mechanics and not a induction sensor? Great work! I love this collective!
In the Element14 project page, there is "[Click Here] for access to all the supporting files you will need to replicate this build! " That leads to GitHub, where you can find the code: github.com/KalebClark/HeliCollective
Greetings: I love your build and I am new to the gaming world. Being 73yo and have all the tools, Material and experience that you posses. I was wondering if you could build me what you have for a future sim that I plan to building.
Very good tutorial. I have just built a button box for the h145 helicopter, but I'm having trouble i do not know how to code for arduino i have tried . Many youtube. videos and websites but the code is full of errors. I just need some code for 3 rotary encoders with switch and my buttons are in a 2 row 6 column configuration. Any chance someone can help me with the code please
In Flight Simulator FSX at least, the collective function can be simply the normal throttle input from a joystick vertical axis - any normal joystick can be used, and it seems to me this is the same basic function you created here. You added a number of buttons that can be pushed w/o having to remove your hand from the collective - that's a valuable addition to a simple joystick functionality. I'm impressed by all the design and fabrication you presented, plus the digital circuitry and programming needed. But really, it seems a case of overkill for just the collective lever. Any decent helicopter control set needs foot pedals. That should be your project. It's mainly a mechanical problem to keep it smoothly linear over a wide enough dynamic range for the simulator, and using only short range of leg motion. Additionally it might be programmed to have variable sensitivity so that the signal varies more rapidly the harder the pedal is pressed. I made my own pedals years ago using one analog potentiometer, some springs, a few hunks of wood and a switch, activated by toe press, for the brakes when landing fixed wing. It worked to allow the correct method of sideslip for crosswind landings in fixed wing simulations. At that time most controls were analog, so the pedals and the two analog joysticks were connected to the PC game port. When PC's went to USB, I just inserted an inexpensive parallel to USB convertor box. You can do better since you know all about digital controls and mechanical design.
A advice, many people today have problems with his eyes, do to the lot of hours looking at bright screens, if possible try to not have fully white parts on your videos, I say cause i have this problem and notice lot of almost complete white screens on that video, what for us is terrible, like a sun right at mto face, Im not hater or anithing, Just saying as am little trick for next videos. The Project os amazing, i Love it!! (Beside the bright screens hhahhahha)
i was thinking about building somehting more usefull for helicopters too. but i was jsut thinking to do it on a easy way and only extend the shafts and cables of the joystick and the throttle... it should be easier and dont need any extra parts except a "stick" for both controllers, 4 connectors and a cableset... gonna see when i need a new controller to do it....
... be great if you can do something for the cyclic control also... pedals i'd say is easy, as there are many commercial options available at a reasonable price.
any chance youve done a similar covering pedals. having issue with hall sensor and readings, very narrow range from one side to other as the sensor is moved between 2 magnets.
This is...really well-made. But the real test comes when you fly the Huey in DCS. If you really like helicopters, I recommend you start flying in DCS, especially with the Huey.
Awesome project. Yes, collective for PC sims are ridiculously priced because it is a niche market. Thanks for this video. As much as Arma3 is an amazing infantry simulator and the graphics are awesome, it is at the level of a 1990 arcade game when it comes to fly helicopters. The only decent chopper sim on the market for PC is DCS. Also, IRL chopper pilots are always flying right seat. copilots are flying left seats.That's why, as you could see, the collective usually more simple on the left side as it is just meant for the copilot to take over the controls in case something happens to the pilot.
4 года назад
Blackshark Den, not all helicopter are commanded from the right seat, MD500 series (little bird) are commanded from the left seat. Cheers
The reason the collective is on the left side is that, most of humanity is right handed and the pilots primary work load is the moving the cyclic with their right hand. All Helicopters have the collective on the left. And, if the copilot takes over, the copilot has her / his own cyclic controls as well as the anti-toque pedals, collective and throttle mounted on the twist grip of the collective. There is no way a copilot could control a helicopter from an opposite seat! I have been flying helis under the X-plane software for three years. I have a set of $3500 heli sim controls. My cyclic is partially not working and I was looking to replace its electronics. This is the reason I watched the this excellent video as it gave some hope that I might be able to come up with some electronics to replace my defective electronics in my cyclic control. My heli hardware manufacture has gone out of business. So I tried to buy a cyclic from Komodo Simulations that I found on the internet. It looks like they have an excellent design with many different cyclic models and configurations. I sent them $3500 the first week in February (22 weeks ago) and they never sent me my cyclic. So a word of warning - stay away from Komodo. (My credit card company is helping me get my money returned).
At 9:18 You said something like "let's get I2c setup on the icp" then moved wires about, and played a silly tune 🤷♂️..HOW exactly us that supposed to help ?? 😕
@@JamesW81 I'm currently planning on building a Teensy 4.0 based joystick, and it will have a "lockable" twist for the rudder (not everyone wants a twist-stick :D). I'll just use potentiometers for the analog inputs, though. I see no real advantage of hall effects in this case.
@@cy-one I was just thinking HE for ease with the twist axis... Although saying that, I guess if you fit a pot in the end of the twist and fixed it to the tube somehow it wouldn't be much more difficult.
Absolutly brilliant design, I have actualy built this and ready to fly, BUT as I am new to the Arduino IDE i'm having trouble uploading the code as I keep getting : Arduino: 1.8.13 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Micro" CollectiveControl:1:10: fatal error: ClickEncoder.h: No such file or directory #include Can anyone point me in the right direction please as to the correction of this problem.
You just gave me an idea. Buy 2nd joystick, mount at 90 degree angle by your left hand, map controls. You then have a collective with neutral position built in, a twist throttle, and hotas built in. Two Logitech 3d pro's would do it for $100.00 or less. Love what you did but I don't have a 3d printer.
I really wanted to watch this video as I am doing a similar project. I got nauseous from the jerky movements of the part preview and had to stop. More of of a FYI then a complaint. I will come back in a bit once my stomach settles down anbd skip forward in the build.
Wow such a very professional job u have done with your collective home made, thinking of to build and sell ? In that case what price ? will be nice to fly with FS2020 really ! Greetings and congratulations from Sweden...
I think an easier solution than a mechanically transmitted absolute encoder would be a VL6180X distance sensor measuring the arc distance. Might need something more powerful, like raspberry pico to smooth the results. Also: Raspberry pico allows programming joysticks with micropython...
I don't mean to be abrasive, but, I feel like this could've been done better for the level of effort. Do you know about how the total cost of the project was if you didn't have any of the components (tools aside of course)? I ask because I share your interest and I would like to see how what I would do would compare in cost.
I am thinking about making a flight stick modification to one of my sticks. It uses the mechanical pot to read the twist and it is very jumpy. I would like to make a Hall effect sensor but how do i know which sensor to buy for the stick? I am assuming that any square neo magnets should also work as long as they are small? Last thing... is it simply a matter of hookingg up a hall sensor to the same wires as the original pot? Windows will see it as the original?
Awesome build! Nice job! Just one thing, helicopter collectives have also a throttle control (wrist rotation). Will try to work on your build and add a throttle control. Thanks !
It would be great for those of us who don't have a clue what you are doing to have people who do produce these finished at a reasonable cost for those of us who want a collective but can't afford the exhorbitatve prices companies charge for retail versions.
20:00 The cables that come out of the aluminium tube needs some cable protection tube, otherwhise the isolation will scrub off at the edge of the aluminium tube.
You can use "1-position spring-back" switches bought as rc transmitter replacement parts. I found some on ali express when searching "transmitter switch". I haven't seen any 2-position ones though.
It's cool having Matt Damon teach us how to make a helicopter collective.
Good to know I wasn't the only one thinking it was Matt Damon in the thumbnail haha
I thought he really was Matt Damon 🤣
😂
Same here
rrsrrs
As an engineer, I love this project. As a helicopter pilot, the flying between wires and the approach made me very uncomfortable!
I got that pucker factor of 11 at the wires and approach also. LOL. Ever fly near cherry orchards 0.0
@@bungycord1169 Fixed wing pilot here: we always suspected helicopter pilots have a fear of heights! LOL
Didn't know Matt Damon was into DIY peripherals building and gaming in general. Such an awesome dude.
Talks about Flight sim, uses Arma to demonstrate LoL. But in all seriousness, I'm kind of jealous.
Nice project. Nice for ARMA, but certainly has me thinking, of a solution for my DCS modules. Was wondering why you choose an encoder over a hall sensor for the main collective position?
My EE SR project 55 years ago was about 1/10th this difficult and took 6 months. The 741 OP amp had just been invented. The PDP8 computer had been in the lab for about 1yr. Must be wonderful to be a EE student in this day and time. Progress now easily made at warp speed.
The Thumbs down are from CSAT soldiers. ;)
I think they're from the DCS pilots.
My two favorite things Arma3 and arduino !
Now I want to start on my custom controls and cockpit for Mechwarrior Online. Awesome job!
after paying 150USD in importation taxes on a 150USD joystick im looking for a cheap alternative to complete my setup! This really is outstanding content, not only a great video but you even made cad files and code public... I just wish more people looking into buying a collective for a flight sim could reach this video or even buy this as a complete kit. Like you said, buying a collective is really expensive, especially when you live in a country where customs are basically legal robbers.
Have you thought about adding a twist grip? I know arma 3 would probably allow it too as you can switch flight modes to realistic or advanced controls.
I think I solved the problem...
You just gave me an idea. Buy 2nd joystick, mount at 90 degree angle by your left hand, map controls. You then have a collective with neutral position built in, a twist throttle, and hotas built in. Two Logitech 3d pro's would do it for $100.00 or less. Love what you did but I don't have a 3d printer.
Why use an Encoder and not just a Potentiometer for the AXIS though ?
Couldn’t you modify a sim e-brake for driving and mount a flightstick grip on it?
I'm loathe to spoil the comment count and be 129, but I want to know how you apply throttle?
Might be a throttle axis on the joystick he's using.
Hel(l)o. Thank you for this very interesting content. I can see you use a (relatively expensive) encoder that gives you 128 PPR. What's the point, since you could have used a dirt cheap potentiometer on an analog input? There has to be something I don't know, since I'm not in electronics at all. The fact is, I ordered a teensy LC and a few potentiometers to do roughly the same thing (flight controls). To me, the encoder seems rather pointless if you're not going to use it for more than one revolution, whereas a 10 bit reading on a potentiometer could give you a far better resolution (and some room to filter the reading if needed). I don't mean to criticise anything, because I don't have the knowledge to do so in this field, but perhaps someone could explain me. I must be missing something, here.
For the mechanical side, which is more my thing, congrats! This is a nice design. I might add some counterweight myself, if I had to use it. This way, the friction plates would have almost nothing to do, appart from giving you the resisting effort you want (no need to deal with the weight, thus you reduce the friction needed and end up with a better feeling, theoretically, and no difference between the push and the pull efforts). Maybe I'd try to implement some kind of adjustable neutral position, but that would become a bit more complicated ;-)
But in the end, I'm just typing, and you DID the thing.
I’m in the middle of building a throttle quadrant with 3 linear slide pots plenty of buttons and toggles and an arduino micro, this is my first time even looking at an arduino and I have no idea what the frig I’m doing regarding the code! I have the pots in the analog inputs and the switches wired as a grid into the arduino but the code is blowing my mind and it’s still blank 😭
one big reason to choose an optical encoder over a potentiometer is no touch. After a while the wiper contact gets dirty and will fritz out on you. The sealed case on the encoder means it will continue to work until the LED burns out.
Old thread but the encoders will be perfectly linear which the potentiometers probably won't be, and they won't wear out.
How much helicopter collective joystick control?
Aren't pilots in the right seat for helicopters?
Nice job, i am a beginner and would like to built the complete this project, where could I get the parts, software etc.
thanks
The parts list and links to the STL files can be found here: bit.ly/2R5Pwk4
The slider on my joystick stopped working yesterday, all the connections seems fine though so it's time for an upgrade! DIY style, thank you!
This is an amazine desing.I hope you make the same for a cyclic!!!!
As someone wanting to build one of these, as soon as you mentioned 3D printed parts, my heart sank.
I don't have, and can't afford a 3D printer. So i'd have to get the parts printed and mailed to me, which won't be cheap, or buy a 3D printer, which would cost the same as a premade collective.
I was totally onboard and looking for all the mechanical parts until you mentioned those bits. :(
Back to my own build i guess. I was just going to use a ~22mm dowel rod, as the collective rod.
Why the 22mm dowel rod? So i can put an e-bike/electric scooter throttle on the end to control the helicopter's RPM.
My biggest problem is the friction bit. I need a way to add the friction to keep it in place.
You might check if your local library has a 3d printer. A lot of them are doing that these days. Where I live a local air and space museum also has a maker space.
use a spring washer to press against the handle at the rotation point. I'd think about five pounds would do it. Spring washer are curved washers that are thin the tighter you squeeze it the heavy the pressure.
This friction parts are flat so you can easly cut it with coping saw from plywood or mdf. Same apply to big cog. Small cog will be harder to make but nothing impossible. You can simply open stl file in 3d builder (free microsoft software) and print it on paper. Then You glue this to some playwood and cut. 3d builder also can make cross-section of part so more complex elements are possible to make by layering few cutouts - just like in 3d printing process :)
Brandon has a good point, a makerspace would be a great resource for printing the parts. If you are interested in this sort of thing it may be a good connection to make anyway!
Another alternative to 3d printed parts may be plastic electrical conduit and junction boxes. You can get them pretty cheap at home depot or Lowe's
I'm in the process of designing/building a helicopter collective too.
I've decided to use Hall Sensors for the collective instead of an encoder, and using Atmel 328P with V-USB's USB implementation.
2:54 "the Bourne Encoder" !
Guys I think he is giving us a hint about the name of his next movie!!
"I love to fly in simulators, especially helicopters." Then why are you showing that in ArmA? Building a DIY collective for ArmA just doesn't compute...
Arma arguably has the unique experience of working with people on the ground, nothing can match that for me. (That I'm aware of)
@@Roebuck325 Still, it's not a sim.
@@getsideways7257 imo Calling Arma "Not a sim" is like saying chocolate "Isn't candy"
@@Roebuck325 Therefore, it doesn't make much sense to use an elaborate controller with it.
how much does everything cost?
The only bummer for me here is that it needs a twist throttle and then it would be perfect.
Great project. Someone said you have the plans. I would live to get them. How about sharing this in Fusion 360? Thanks,
Nicely done. Been looking at all of the store-bought solutions. What was the cost of this project?
iv made a few button boxes and im learning cad too, im interested in designing and making a collective too at some point!
iv never used hall effect or arduiino and hvavnt got a clue. how many buttons and axis will the arduino take?
I'm 4 years late but still have a Question:
- Is this printed with a 0.4 nozzle?
- Why the complicated mechanics and not a induction sensor?
Great work! I love this collective!
I don't see the code in the resources .zip file. Is it somewhere else?
In the Element14 project page, there is "[Click Here] for access to all the supporting files you will need to replicate this build!
" That leads to GitHub, where you can find the code: github.com/KalebClark/HeliCollective
Element 14 page has been updated with links to github for code, and source CAD files.
Greetings: I love your build and I am new to the gaming world. Being 73yo and have all the tools, Material and experience that you posses. I was wondering if you could build me what you have for a future sim that I plan to building.
Very good tutorial. I have just built a button box for the h145 helicopter, but I'm having trouble i do not know how to code for arduino i have tried . Many youtube. videos and websites but the code is full of errors. I just need some code for 3 rotary encoders with switch and my buttons are in a 2 row 6 column configuration. Any chance someone can help me with the code please
mechanical encoder in 2k21? Serious?
TLE5010 with magnet much better and low price...
In Flight Simulator FSX at least, the collective function can be simply the normal throttle input from a joystick vertical axis - any normal joystick can be used, and it seems to me this is the same basic function you created here. You added a number of buttons that can be pushed w/o having to remove your hand from the collective - that's a valuable addition to a simple joystick functionality.
I'm impressed by all the design and fabrication you presented, plus the digital circuitry and programming needed. But really, it seems a case of overkill for just the collective lever.
Any decent helicopter control set needs foot pedals. That should be your project. It's mainly a mechanical problem to keep it smoothly linear over a wide enough dynamic range for the simulator, and using only short range of leg motion. Additionally it might be programmed to have variable sensitivity so that the signal varies more rapidly the harder the pedal is pressed.
I made my own pedals years ago using one analog potentiometer, some springs, a few hunks of wood and a switch, activated by toe press, for the brakes when landing fixed wing. It worked to allow the correct method of sideslip for crosswind landings in fixed wing simulations. At that time most controls were analog, so the pedals and the two analog joysticks were connected to the PC game port. When PC's went to USB, I just inserted an inexpensive parallel to USB convertor box. You can do better since you know all about digital controls and mechanical design.
A advice, many people today have problems with his eyes, do to the lot of hours looking at bright screens, if possible try to not have fully white parts on your videos,
I say cause i have this problem and notice lot of almost complete white screens on that video, what for us is terrible, like a sun right at mto face,
Im not hater or anithing, Just saying as am little trick for next videos.
The Project os amazing, i Love it!! (Beside the bright screens hhahhahha)
I'd rather have a Bell 206 collective, it'll make it easier to start the Dodosim 206.
not everybody have a 3D Printer, I found a lot of Videos about DIY Collectives but nobody sells a DIY Kit :(
You built this awesome thing for ARMA?
Ever tried a rotary wing in DCS?
I recommend the Gazelle in VR!
The Gazelle in DCS has an aweful flight model. Even Polychop has said they will fix it once the Kiowa has released.
Great tutorial. Any chance someone can help me with some code for an arduino Leonardo. I have 3 encorders with switches and a 2×6 button layout.
Also, build yourself a TrackIR. It'll change your Arma flying forever!
Hello sir!...Can you put one of those collective together for me. How much would it be?..$$
i was thinking about building somehting more usefull for helicopters too. but i was jsut thinking to do it on a easy way and only extend the shafts and cables of the joystick and the throttle... it should be easier and dont need any extra parts except a "stick" for both controllers, 4 connectors and a cableset... gonna see when i need a new controller to do it....
... be great if you can do something for the cyclic control also...
pedals i'd say is easy, as there are many commercial options available at a reasonable price.
bro! i am from nicaragua! anything can come or get shipped into my country where in the hellicopter am i gonna get a 3d printer..... sad
Would you sale this thing? I am not capable of building something this advance...
You should test it in DCS...
Samurai, let us know , I’ll gladly pay to have one built for me .
@@BjornTheF3llHanded update?
Yeah, and then test it with the Gazelle - that has a flight model even worse than ArmA :D
any chance youve done a similar covering pedals. having issue with hall sensor and readings, very narrow range from one side to other as the sensor is moved between 2 magnets.
Wow awesome job!!! Can you tell me the cost´s of the building the collective?
Great video but as a man it’s “shop” not “makers space”. Ugghhh.
A linear encoder might work better over such short travels.
Could you export the files as STEP so they can be modified?
This is...really well-made. But the real test comes when you fly the Huey in DCS. If you really like helicopters, I recommend you start flying in DCS, especially with the Huey.
That is the plan. One of my favorite helicopters to fly in arms, and I hear the DCS UH-1 is amazing!
Eagle Dynamics (DCS) are offering all aircraft modules as a free trial for the next month
Did you consider using a hall effect sensor instead of the rotary encoder for the deflection measurement? Should give more resolution?
You will get extra resolution, but you dont need those extra values for games / sims
Awesome project. Yes, collective for PC sims are ridiculously priced because it is a niche market. Thanks for this video. As much as Arma3 is an amazing infantry simulator and the graphics are awesome, it is at the level of a 1990 arcade game when it comes to fly helicopters. The only decent chopper sim on the market for PC is DCS. Also, IRL chopper pilots are always flying right seat. copilots are flying left seats.That's why, as you could see, the collective usually more simple on the left side as it is just meant for the copilot to take over the controls in case something happens to the pilot.
Blackshark Den, not all helicopter are commanded from the right seat, MD500 series (little bird) are commanded from the left seat. Cheers
The reason the collective is on the left side is that, most of humanity is right handed and the pilots primary work load is the moving the cyclic with their right hand. All Helicopters have the collective on the left. And, if the copilot takes over, the copilot has her / his own cyclic controls as well as the anti-toque pedals, collective and throttle mounted on the twist grip of the collective. There is no way a copilot could control a helicopter from an opposite seat! I have been flying helis under the X-plane software for three years. I have a set of $3500 heli sim controls. My cyclic is partially not working and I was looking to replace its electronics. This is the reason I watched the this excellent video as it gave some hope that I might be able to come up with some electronics to replace my defective electronics in my cyclic control. My heli hardware manufacture has gone out of business. So I tried to buy a cyclic from Komodo Simulations that I found on the internet. It looks like they have an excellent design with many different cyclic models and configurations. I sent them $3500 the first week in February (22 weeks ago) and they never sent me my cyclic. So a word of warning - stay away from Komodo. (My credit card company is helping me get my money returned).
At 9:18 You said something like "let's get I2c setup on the icp" then moved wires about, and played a silly tune 🤷♂️..HOW exactly us that supposed to help ?? 😕
Return to center toggle switches should be available from specialty aircraft part supply shops like Aircraft Spruce
What are yoy using for throttle?? Isn't that suppose to be part of the control?
You are missing the twisting handle on the collective for the throttle function (that's why the bought collectives are more expensive too)
But tbh, that's not really that much more difficult to include.
@@cy-one I was thinking it should have a twist.... Hall effect sensor is the way to go on that, it could be installed in less than 30 minutes.
@@JamesW81 I'm currently planning on building a Teensy 4.0 based joystick, and it will have a "lockable" twist for the rudder (not everyone wants a twist-stick :D).
I'll just use potentiometers for the analog inputs, though. I see no real advantage of hall effects in this case.
@@cy-one I was just thinking HE for ease with the twist axis... Although saying that, I guess if you fit a pot in the end of the twist and fixed it to the tube somehow it wouldn't be much more difficult.
@@JamesW81 I disassembled an old Cyborg Evo today, and they had done more or less exactly that :D
what simulation is this?? and is it like flying a real helicopter??
Absolutly brilliant design, I have actualy built this and ready to fly,
BUT as I am new to the Arduino IDE i'm having trouble uploading the code as I keep getting :
Arduino: 1.8.13 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Micro"
CollectiveControl:1:10: fatal error: ClickEncoder.h: No such file or directory
#include
Can anyone point me in the right direction please as to the correction of this problem.
I like it. But I'd like to see twist throttle control as well.
You should start a production line for this.i ll buy one
I wish I had a 3d printer and a clue about programming lol
What is de Simm software You'r using??
You just gave me an idea. Buy 2nd joystick, mount at 90 degree angle by your left hand, map controls. You then have a collective with neutral position built in, a twist throttle, and hotas built in. Two Logitech 3d pro's would do it for $100.00 or less. Love what you did but I don't have a 3d printer.
Get some built , I’ll be glad to buy one 👍🏻
Epic idea, checkmate lol!
Wow-this project is amazing. Great work, Kaleb!! 😍🤓
Which simulator is shown in the demo? FSX?
I really wanted to watch this video as I am doing a similar project. I got nauseous from the jerky movements of the part preview and had to stop. More of of a FYI then a complaint. I will come back in a bit once my stomach settles down anbd skip forward in the build.
This is pointless, there's no arduino code in any of the links 🤷♂️🙄
It's under 'supplemental content' at bit.ly/2R5Pwk4
is there a way to buy 1 off you as i don't have 3d printer
Wow such a very professional job u have done with your collective home made, thinking of to build and sell ? In that case what price ? will be nice to fly with FS2020 really !
Greetings and congratulations from Sweden...
Very nice, it would of been perfect if you had a throttle added
Arma 3. Thumbs up.
Awesome but you should produce them as an affordable choice. Most are way too pricey. Can we build and sell them?
The only thing missing from this is some throttle control (twist on the handle) Though I understand why you didn't bother :P
Hi which Helicopter Sim are you running?
Would you be willing to put up your 3d printer files
I think an easier solution than a mechanically transmitted absolute encoder would be a VL6180X distance sensor measuring the arc distance. Might need something more powerful, like raspberry pico to smooth the results. Also: Raspberry pico allows programming joysticks with micropython...
Matt: Look, There's the copilot collective while looking at the captains seat
Matt: Sits in the left seat(Actual co-pilot seat)
Me: Visible Confusion
New here, where do I find the plans, schematics etc? If I build one can I sell it online later? Can anybody put this together?
It a very nice job done. But why didn't you use a HAL effect sensor? Wouldn't it make it easier?
Virile makes this stuff but I like to see you diy it
I didn't know Matt Damon was in Heli sim!!
I don't mean to be abrasive, but, I feel like this could've been done better for the level of effort. Do you know about how the total cost of the project was if you didn't have any of the components (tools aside of course)? I ask because I share your interest and I would like to see how what I would do would compare in cost.
I am thinking about making a flight stick modification to one of my sticks. It uses the mechanical pot to read the twist and it is very jumpy. I would like to make a Hall effect sensor but how do i know which sensor to buy for the stick? I am assuming that any square neo magnets should also work as long as they are small? Last thing... is it simply a matter of hookingg up a hall sensor to the same wires as the original pot? Windows will see it as the original?
Do you have a parts layout, I cannot find what size m3 screws, and bolts, sizes and lengths anywhere thanks
You selling these and if so how much?
Would you build and sell this collective?
Do you have the plans for the base plate please?
Awesome build! Nice job! Just one thing, helicopter collectives have also a throttle control (wrist rotation). Will try to work on your build and add a throttle control. Thanks !
It would be great for those of us who don't have a clue what you are doing to have people who do produce these finished at a reasonable cost for those of us who want a collective but can't afford the exhorbitatve prices companies charge for retail versions.
Jason isbell teaches arduino
If you dont have the 3D printer, how much do you guys thinks would be reasonable price to pay to get them printed?
Great Video and nice project idea :) ... just one thing: ARMA3 is NOT a flight sim
Helicopter PIC seat is right seat.
20:00 The cables that come out of the aluminium tube needs some cable protection tube, otherwhise the isolation will scrub off at the edge of the aluminium tube.
What game are you doing this on?
You can use "1-position spring-back" switches bought as rc transmitter replacement parts. I found some on ali express when searching "transmitter switch". I haven't seen any 2-position ones though.