Put a piece of tape down on bare aluminium so u can get a more accurate temp reading. The way you guys were using the temp gun the aluminum reflects the temp gun
I have an ND (latest) gen Mazda Miata that got rear-ended and it squashed in just the final 4" of it's top most furthest to the rear of the car point which ends right where trunk sits on it...I am wondering rather replacing the entire R rear quarter panel to simply find a smashed panel that part is intact on, cut it off and have it welded on my quarter panel? The rest of 1/4panel ispristine
There are some areas on some aluminum vehicles where the OEM allows repairing clinched areas that are seperated with rivets. As said don't do that unless it says you can do it in an OEM procedure and not with hardware store rivets, but it's not true that "any" damaged or separated clinches can't be repaired. Look up the OEM information. Also please quit showing the improper way to use a non-contact thermometer. These guys don't know how to use them correctly and are teaching people to ruin the panels they are working on. watch this video to learn the proper way to use a non-contact thermometer. ruclips.net/video/jmUHxgj5GuY/видео.html Notice how long they heated the bare area and how short the time was that it took to get the painted area to 400 degrees, probably less than half as long as it did on the bare area. When it said 200 C on the bare area that would be 392 F and it took waaaaay longer to get to the 200 C on the bare area than it did to 400F on the painted area even though the reading on the thermo said they were the same temp. That's because the reading was correct on the painted area and incorrect on the bare area. When they were at a 200 C ( 392 F.) reading on the bare surface the real temperature there was probably over 600-700 degrees F.
If you are training technicians how to repair aluminum vehicles properly you are going to have a problem if repair shop management and estimators and production managers and QC foremen are not also trained because this morning my body shop manager told me I’m not a real body man if I can’t repair a panel that definitely needs to be replaced 🤦🏻♂️
Put a piece of tape down on bare aluminium so u can get a more accurate temp reading. The way you guys were using the temp gun the aluminum reflects the temp gun
Larry is the Man and Mrs Felder knows her shit
Follow you OEM repair procedures. When in doubt contact the OEM for support. Fix it the right way, not your way.
I have an ND (latest) gen Mazda Miata that got rear-ended and it squashed in just the final 4" of it's top most furthest to the rear of the car point which ends right where trunk sits on it...I am wondering rather replacing the entire R rear quarter panel to simply find a smashed panel that part is intact on, cut it off and have it welded on my quarter panel? The rest of 1/4panel ispristine
The horror story at 33 of course was a Ford which certainly had quesionable design issues at the start
There are some areas on some aluminum vehicles where the OEM allows repairing clinched areas that are seperated with rivets. As said don't do that unless it says you can do it in an OEM procedure and not with hardware store rivets, but it's not true that "any" damaged or separated clinches can't be repaired. Look up the OEM information. Also please quit showing the improper way to use a non-contact thermometer. These guys don't know how to use them correctly and are teaching people to ruin the panels they are working on. watch this video to learn the proper way to use a non-contact thermometer. ruclips.net/video/jmUHxgj5GuY/видео.html
Notice how long they heated the bare area and how short the time was that it took to get the painted area to 400 degrees, probably less than half as long as it did on the bare area. When it said 200 C on the bare area that would be 392 F and it took waaaaay longer to get to the 200 C on the bare area than it did to 400F on the painted area even though the reading on the thermo said they were the same temp. That's because the reading was correct on the painted area and incorrect on the bare area. When they were at a 200 C ( 392 F.) reading on the bare surface the real temperature there was probably over 600-700 degrees F.
Very informative
How to replace rear fender aluminum car
If you are training technicians how to repair aluminum vehicles properly you are going to have a problem if repair shop management and estimators and production managers and QC foremen are not also trained because this morning my body shop manager told me I’m not a real body man if I can’t repair a panel that definitely needs to be replaced 🤦🏻♂️
Chubby guy knows too much theory not so much practice.