Hello! I hope this question reaches you (or whomever reads this), especially since your comment is a year old, but with the double loop on the high e string, does that method only apply to the high e or can you use it for all strings?
Every single, solitary time I watch a video by D'Addario -regardless of the subject matter- it is the best coverage of that subject on RUclips. No exceptions. Thanks, folks!
Video: "never take all the strings off at the same time, that creates higher risk for damage when adding tension, especially for vintage for guitars." Me, having just removed all the strings from my mom's classical guitar she got in the 70's: Well sh*t
I thought doing one at a time was lazy, u know . . . the "path of least resistance" THE ONE TIME I decide to "step up my game" I did two things: 1) unstring all 6 strings 2) Look up a how-to tutorial on RUclips
Very well done and informative. Thanks. Yours is the only video that I came across that accurately instructed about the 1st and 6th string. That's how my Yamaha was strung from the factory, so I wanted to do it the same way.
a couple of pointers - 1. (bridge end) you want your top loop (nearest sound hole) to be smaller - as small as you can get it so it isn't resting/touching the saddle holder. you can use a small pencil point to push the loop smaller and down away from the bridge wood saddle holder. i also lay a small piece of paper on the bottom of the bridge so i don't damage my sound board. 2. (top-head end) the strings need to wind and be on the top of the peg (not coining from the bottom). also make sure that none of your strings are touching any part of the head stock. strings should go straight from the winding peg to the nut
FIRSTTIME STRINGER JEJE I SUCK I THINK I DID IT BACKWARDS ... YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF YOUNG MAN ... GOD BLESS.... LOVE YOUR AMPS AT YOUR STORE.... PEACEOUT
I bought my first Classical guitar this week, Cordoba C5-CET Limited. I didn't know how to replace strings, and I was also confused by the coated strings ( I thought they will all be transparent nylon), your video is great, especially because you used different angles to show us how to do it properly :)
Crikey..........first time I have hanged classical strings - really not sure what the first four mins of this video was actually saying - but after that I was flying getting my strings changed - thanks Brandon, good job!
norb, not only that mate but every one of these guitar Drongos, "all" of these so-called specialists Not one of them stretched the strings after tuning, what a bunch of yahoos
@@11calman No human is strong enough for stretch the core of a string with permanence without the applications of some sort of tool (s) :) String stretching is a ritual, not a technique, and scientific studies have reflected that - Just one alleged Yahoo’s experience.
@@underthegreatwave Nice one mate, Most probably spoken by a "True" amateur. I & countless (That would be innumerable), people much like myself (not gifted, but passable), put new strings onto a guitar then "Stretch" each string, Tune-up. do this 5 times & your guitar will never go out of tune, (I might add here so that you don't get to despondent) that I am slightly deaf,,,,,,,,,,, your turn
One thing is that at the part where he is shown snipping the end of strings on the saddle/bridge, I would urge folks to put something down next to the place where you're snipping to avoid accidentally scratching the guitar with the snip. I noticed that the guitar also had a "string ding" dent in the soundboard from a previous accident. You can use a thin piece of plastic like that sold for that very purpose by Kling-on, or cardboard paper or some such.
3ys old but 2 questions how much slack before tightening and how many turns minimal to tighten? I also noticed the strings are grouped and three have colored markings. Thank you.
Attach the treble 3 strings to the tie block securely and also to each tuner 'barrel' so each is well 'locked-in' and wraps around the barrel 2 or more times...
watched a couple of these videos to string a classical guitar , not one of them mention to stretch the strings , at all ... ? i play electric mostly but have a couple of these lying around , don't these need to be stretched then ? they all say at the end ''so now you just tune it and play'' ... ?
Anybody have another method for the G,B & high E? Can't get them to hold their pitch, followed 3 videos with this same method verbatim & still no luck.
I melt the tie block end of all the nylon strings and then tie them off after threading each thru the tie block... a ball end of solid nylon will NOT slip back through a taut loop...
I would say it's the tension or brand of string if you've stretched them several times and re-tuned. Try high/hard tension strings in a mainstream brand. Another trick I do is to tuck the end of the string under the tie of the one next to it as you go and that keeps everything clamped down and no pointy stuff at the bridge while strumming!
They're called "ball-ends" D'addario make a nylon set with ball ends called 'Folk'. They are different to these strings bc they don't tie off at the end. The guy at the music store said that tie ends are a little more secure and use more ideal materials to make a better string, plus they are wider in variety. It is not appropriate to use ball end, steel strings on a classical guitar. That's what the 'Trust Rod' talk is all about. Steel strings can warp the neck of a classical guitar.
This method of end tying is useful if you're just replacing a single string. However, if I am doing a full restring, my preference is the "Martin" style of interlocking the ends at the bridge. It is neater and just looks like you knew what you were doing.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong, as I'm a total beginner, but I first watched the Martin tutorial and thought "well, that's inconvenient if you later have to just replace one string"
If one string slips away then you can't lock it back in anymore. Moreover, since adjacent string don't have the same thickness, I feel like the thinnest of both strings won't be locked as well in the back of the bridge.
I understand why to change from norman to extra high tension might cause trouble, but can the opposite (extra high to normal) harm the guitar? Please answer to me cause I'm about to do it!
A large change in tension on a guitar-neck without a truss-rod is very dangerous to the playability of the instrument and can even snap the neck of the guitar. Also why we recommend changing the strings one-at-a-time on truss-rodless guitars. Did that help? ROKKON \m/
For nylon guitars, we recommend not playing for an audience within 48 or even 72 hours after a string change: The strings to be "played in" for about 2 hours. (BTW, for electrics and basses we drop that to 48 before a show and an hour of play-in.) Did that help? ROKKON \m/
im a beginner and i got my classical guitar 4 years ago is it weird that i don't have to tie my strings on the bridge because my guitar only has like 6 holes??
I hope someone reads me. I'm a pretty beginner player, my girlfriend bought me a second hand guitar for Christmas, one of the strings broke and I did replace all the strings in the guitar cus the other ones were pretty old. I bought Alice (brand) strings, and they have the name of the string (E A D G B E) in each string. I went string by string so nothing should be wrong there, but when it comes to tuning (using Guitar Tuna) it says the 1st string is not correct. I took the string off and in again because I thought I did it wrong. It didn't work, and I do not know what to do. I'm thinking of switching the e for the B and see if maybe they were wrongly packed and that's why it sounds odd. Anyways does someone have any tip? Thank you!
I'm a beginner too, but you may have put the low e string where the high e string is. The low e string should be thick and metal wound, whilst the high e string should be thin and non-metal wound. Also, it takes time for strings to "stay in tune" when you change them, so give it some time (about a week i think) if it seems like it keeps going out of tune lool.
Thickness-wise, all strings are placed in order, from thickest to thinnest. Try different tuning apps if you're not sure or restart it. You may have selected alternate tuning or for bass or yukulele or different reference frequency (should be 440 Herz). Tune it while holding the guitar in normal playing position. If the tuner doesn't track the low E string, pluck the string closer to the bridge to emphazise higher harmonics and let it ring.
Most classical/nylon guitars do not have a truss-rod: Releasing tension all at once is bad for any guitar-neck but especially for those without a metal truss-rod for support. Sometimes all strings must be removed simultaneously for repairs, in which case we recommend loosening each string a little at a time: Do not loosen any string to a "slack" position while the others are held in tension. This is one of those "let your instrument acclimate" scenarios like keeping a shipped guitar in it's box in the house for 24 hours before unboxing. Did that help? ROKKON \m/
@@danielpleitez-martinez7638 Hi! A truss-rod is a metal screw (at least at the ends, not threaded the whole length) that you can tighten or loosen to add or remove relief from the neck: Turning one way (varies mostly by electric with the adjustment at the neck, acoustics usually from within the sound hole) make the neck concave (adding relief) or convex (less relief.) The truss-rod adds to the stability of the neck by "forcing" (for lack of a better word) the neck into the shape you want.
Hey Daniel, I posted a quick video on our channel about the truss-rod and added some schtuff about neck tension and environment... just a bit more general thoughts about the oddly fragile yet incredibly rugged instrument we call the guitar!
Thanks for the help. I was used to stringing electric and steel string acoustic, but I'd never dealt with tying them off at the bridge end. In future videos, you may want to use more gender neutral pronouns instead of using 'guys' all the time. Ana Vidovic and the rest of us female guitarists do a lot of restringing, too :O)
This is nice and easy to follow as a total beginner, but I'd probably appreciate it more if it didn't have the "now, if you're a gigging GUY".... Why do you think guitars are a guy thing? Most people i know that play guitar are ladies, as am I
Merriam-Webster definition 1b; guy noun (1) \ ˈgī \ Definition of guy (Entry 1 of 4) 1a : MAN, FELLOW b : PERSON -used in plural to refer to the members of a group regardless of sex “saw her and the rest of the guys” 2 : INDIVIDUAL, CREATURE “The other dogs pale in comparison to this little guy.”
He didn't mention stretching each string once it's on until it holds its pitch. If you don't stretch them you'll spend more time retuning than playing. I cant believe you left that out. I guess that's cause it's a " how to" from a string manufacturer not a player.
none of the videos say you have to do this , i thought these where ''professional'' players ... play electric myself and always need to stretch the F out of them or the damn things won't stay in tune ... you're right , they need to be stretched , always
The best string changing video on RUclips, actually explaining the nuances and even mentioning the double loop method for the high e string.
Hello! I hope this question reaches you (or whomever reads this), especially since your comment is a year old, but with the double loop on the high e string, does that method only apply to the high e or can you use it for all strings?
Ja
900
@@DemitriIce Let me know if you found an answer!
@@blingclem Hello! I'm no expert but I took the risk, did it myself, and fortunately it worked for me.
ahhhh this dude has so much control over the strings he makes everything look so much easier
Yeah, we find an extra hand helps a ton! ROKKON \m/
Finally a good method and a good explanation for how to tie the string on the headstock.
Every single, solitary time I watch a video by D'Addario -regardless of the subject matter- it is the best coverage of that subject on RUclips. No exceptions.
Thanks, folks!
Don't know why this stupid phone struck a line through my text at 'regardless of the subject matter'. Needs to be left in because it's true.
i've never had the courage to change classical guitar strings by myself but now with this video's help i finally did it :)
How did it go?
Well done. Very clear explanation. Gives me confidence to tackle “Linda”, my 1966 Guild classical guitar.
Video: "never take all the strings off at the same time, that creates higher risk for damage when adding tension, especially for vintage for guitars."
Me, having just removed all the strings from my mom's classical guitar she got in the 70's: Well sh*t
yup, just done exactly the same on a new handmade classical guitar I bought!
Haha same
I thought doing one at a time was lazy, u know . . . the "path of least resistance"
THE ONE TIME I decide to "step up my game" I did two things:
1) unstring all 6 strings
2) Look up a how-to tutorial on RUclips
Thankyou sir, the 1st String DOUBLE Loop is a secure method to keep the String from getting loose & untuned after Tuning.
Superb idea.
🎉
The best string changing video ever!!! This video has changed my life, thank you Fred!
Very well done and informative. Thanks.
Yours is the only video that I came across that accurately instructed about the 1st and 6th string. That's how my Yamaha was strung from the factory, so I wanted to do it the same way.
that "over, and under, but THROUGH" part got me so fucked up six ways to sunday. watching it 20 times but cant duplicate
good points... I saw a pro player do it and just followed him exactly.
Amazing video! My classical has been sitting with a broken string for 6months because I didn't have the confidence to change them.
a couple of pointers - 1. (bridge end) you want your top loop (nearest sound hole) to be smaller - as small as you can get it so it isn't resting/touching the saddle holder. you can use a small pencil point to push the loop smaller and down away from the bridge wood saddle holder. i also lay a small piece of paper on the bottom of the bridge so i don't damage my sound board. 2. (top-head end) the strings need to wind and be on the top of the peg (not coining from the bottom). also make sure that none of your strings are touching any part of the head stock. strings should go straight from the winding peg to the nut
Awesome how-to instructions. Well done. Thank you.
FIRSTTIME STRINGER JEJE I SUCK I THINK I DID IT BACKWARDS ... YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF YOUNG MAN ... GOD BLESS.... LOVE YOUR AMPS AT YOUR STORE.... PEACEOUT
Thank you - many years since I played classical and your video made restringing one I bought so much easier. Greatly appreciated
Exellent demo i,ll be doing this to my yamaha later .
Even I could follow this, and I'm a drummer.
aay
Cool.
How about a bass player?!
Great video , awesome soundtrack !
Excellent explanation! Very detailed and helpful!
Have had to rewatch the luthiers knot where you do the pulling it through extra bit more times than I care to share. Arggh 🙈
Excellent video Brandon, but you didn’t mention / demonstrate for guitars with 12 holes in the bridge. That would be useful. Thanks
I bought my first Classical guitar this week, Cordoba C5-CET Limited.
I didn't know how to replace strings, and I was also confused by the coated strings ( I thought they will all be transparent nylon), your video is great, especially because you used different angles to show us how to do it properly :)
thats one of the best classsicals
Crikey..........first time I have hanged classical strings - really not sure what the first four mins of this video was actually saying - but after that I was flying getting my strings changed - thanks Brandon, good job!
Very clear and instructive!
why do all of these string changing videos always choose the shittest camera angles
norb, not only that mate but every one of these guitar Drongos, "all" of these so-called specialists Not one of them stretched the strings after tuning, what a bunch of yahoos
@@11calman No human is strong enough for stretch the core of a string with permanence without the applications of some sort of tool (s) :) String stretching is a ritual, not a technique, and scientific studies have reflected that - Just one alleged Yahoo’s experience.
@@underthegreatwave Nice one mate, Most probably spoken by a "True" amateur. I & countless (That would be innumerable), people much like myself (not gifted, but passable), put new strings onto a guitar then "Stretch" each string, Tune-up. do this 5 times & your guitar will never go out of tune, (I might add here so that you don't get to despondent) that I am slightly deaf,,,,,,,,,,, your turn
I love the angle
Thank you for this great video!
my high E keeps losing it's grip when it is almost in tune. the low strings find their grip but the nylon ones just keep getting lose
Same here
When you use for more then3,4months playing it will stop losing grip slowly
@@porcupinetree8325 actually my strings already found their grip so I'm happy :)
Good vid, just the top end is at such a weird angle its hard to tell what youre really going
One thing is that at the part where he is shown snipping the end of strings on the saddle/bridge, I would urge folks to put something down next to the place where you're snipping to avoid accidentally scratching the guitar with the snip. I noticed that the guitar also had a "string ding" dent in the soundboard from a previous accident. You can use a thin piece of plastic like that sold for that very purpose by Kling-on, or cardboard paper or some such.
So clear and very professional
Very helpful. Thanks.
Did not mention anything about stretching the strings after.
Best video on the subject!
☺️ thank you buddy
thank you!
Thanks
Thank you
Any easy way to make sure the knot ends up at the side of the tie block rather than top?
thank you mate
3ys old but 2 questions
how much slack before tightening and how many turns minimal to tighten?
I also noticed the strings are grouped and three have colored markings.
Thank you.
Do you need to do the double loop for the G and B string, or just the high E?
XT strings were killing me with the slippage. Now I see that there is hope.😅
How do you wind to the outside/ inside?
I bought D'Addario EJ27N-3D and they are wrapped in two some are marked but some aren't.How can I tell wish is wish?
I would definitely put some sort of protection against nicks and scratches around the bridge.
Good idea, but if you knot correctly the guitar strings, there is no problem, even with the highest tension carbon
Once my high e string gets to a certain point it just untunes itself completely. It’ll go from showing Eb to G# it’s sooooo annoyingggg..
try a gnawing on a granola bar when your tuning it mite help.
Attach the treble 3 strings to the tie block securely and also to each tuner 'barrel' so each is well 'locked-in' and wraps around the barrel 2 or more times...
Short version: If you can tie a shoelace, you can string a classical guitar.
watched a couple of these videos to string a classical guitar , not one of them mention to stretch the strings , at all ... ?
i play electric mostly but have a couple of these lying around , don't these need to be stretched then ?
they all say at the end ''so now you just tune it and play'' ... ?
Anybody have another method for the G,B & high E? Can't get them to hold their pitch, followed 3 videos with this same method verbatim & still no luck.
I melt the tie block end of all the nylon strings and then tie them off after threading each thru the tie block... a ball end of solid nylon will NOT slip back through a taut loop...
I would say it's the tension or brand of string if you've stretched them several times and re-tuned. Try high/hard tension strings in a mainstream brand. Another trick I do is to tuck the end of the string under the tie of the one next to it as you go and that keeps everything clamped down and no pointy stuff at the bridge while strumming!
Well, that didn't work out so well, went through 2 strings.
What if I have pegs? I just want to know why my strings are slipping from the pegs.
Nylon E snaps two notes before E.
I got daddario strings and I don’t under stand how the little circles at the end work can someone explain
I dont think it has any function i think it is only for end coated string.You can cut it
you got acoustic strings, not classical
They're called "ball-ends" D'addario make a nylon set with ball ends called 'Folk'. They are different to these strings bc they don't tie off at the end. The guy at the music store said that tie ends are a little more secure and use more ideal materials to make a better string, plus they are wider in variety.
It is not appropriate to use ball end, steel strings on a classical guitar. That's what the 'Trust Rod' talk is all about. Steel strings can warp the neck of a classical guitar.
You never showed how the strings wrap around up and down and under the strings at the bridge. Good video anyways for the low and high E.
No Slackon the string ???
Classical is maybe the best begginer guitar the strings are very forgiving for the fingers
which classical guitar is it
Why was there a seringe in that bag lmao
I believe its an oil to lubricate the nut.. or for IV drugs haha
Wish the camera didn’t unfocus every time something is shown.
Came here from Martin. You’re great!
They were garbage
This method of end tying is useful if you're just replacing a single string. However, if I am doing a full restring, my preference is the "Martin" style of interlocking the ends at the bridge. It is neater and just looks like you knew what you were doing.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong, as I'm a total beginner, but I first watched the Martin tutorial and thought "well, that's inconvenient if you later have to just replace one string"
If one string slips away then you can't lock it back in anymore.
Moreover, since adjacent string don't have the same thickness, I feel like the thinnest of both strings won't be locked as well in the back of the bridge.
I successfully strung the strings to the bridge but I messed up on the headstock. Should I restart with new strings or can I fix the existing strings?
nah man just take out the strings on the headstock and try it again, simple
I understand why to change from norman to extra high tension might cause trouble, but can the opposite (extra high to normal) harm the guitar? Please answer to me cause I'm about to do it!
A large change in tension on a guitar-neck without a truss-rod is very dangerous to the playability of the instrument and can even snap the neck of the guitar. Also why we recommend changing the strings one-at-a-time on truss-rodless guitars. Did that help? ROKKON \m/
8:37 "The trebles" ... Isn't that what the Irish call the conflict in Northern Ireland during the late 20th century? (Too soon?)
Then ...after change the string directly i can play guitar??
For nylon guitars, we recommend not playing for an audience within 48 or even 72 hours after a string change: The strings to be "played in" for about 2 hours. (BTW, for electrics and basses we drop that to 48 before a show and an hour of play-in.) Did that help? ROKKON \m/
im a beginner and i got my classical guitar 4 years ago is it weird that i don't have to tie my strings on the bridge because my guitar only has like 6 holes??
id like to add that the strings on my guitar when i bought it wasn't nylon im confused fr AHAHAHA
You have an acoustic guitar my friend, not a classical. Holes and pegs, steel string, not classical
@@erenjaegerbomb8653 You mean "folk" guitar. Both folk and classical guitars are acoustic.
I hope someone reads me. I'm a pretty beginner player, my girlfriend bought me a second hand guitar for Christmas, one of the strings broke and I did replace all the strings in the guitar cus the other ones were pretty old. I bought Alice (brand) strings, and they have the name of the string (E A D G B E) in each string. I went string by string so nothing should be wrong there, but when it comes to tuning (using Guitar Tuna) it says the 1st string is not correct. I took the string off and in again because I thought I did it wrong. It didn't work, and I do not know what to do. I'm thinking of switching the e for the B and see if maybe they were wrongly packed and that's why it sounds odd. Anyways does someone have any tip? Thank you!
I'm a beginner too, but you may have put the low e string where the high e string is. The low e string should be thick and metal wound, whilst the high e string should be thin and non-metal wound. Also, it takes time for strings to "stay in tune" when you change them, so give it some time (about a week i think) if it seems like it keeps going out of tune lool.
@@cathy921ontheradio Its not the other E haha, but I appreciate the comment, didn't know that it takes time and few "retunes", tyvm.
Thickness-wise, all strings are placed in order, from thickest to thinnest.
Try different tuning apps if you're not sure or restart it. You may have selected alternate tuning or for bass or yukulele or different reference frequency (should be 440 Herz).
Tune it while holding the guitar in normal playing position.
If the tuner doesn't track the low E string, pluck the string closer to the bridge to emphazise higher harmonics and let it ring.
why he calls the 6th string "D"?
JANI aha yeah that’s right, thank you!
5:15 restringing
he has vulcan ears
Why is is important to take each string individually why not save time?
Most classical/nylon guitars do not have a truss-rod: Releasing tension all at once is bad for any guitar-neck but especially for those without a metal truss-rod for support. Sometimes all strings must be removed simultaneously for repairs, in which case we recommend loosening each string a little at a time: Do not loosen any string to a "slack" position while the others are held in tension. This is one of those "let your instrument acclimate" scenarios like keeping a shipped guitar in it's box in the house for 24 hours before unboxing. Did that help? ROKKON \m/
What is a truss rod? And ok so it’s about the effect it has on the guitar if you release the tension?
@@danielpleitez-martinez7638 Hi! A truss-rod is a metal screw (at least at the ends, not threaded the whole length) that you can tighten or loosen to add or remove relief from the neck: Turning one way (varies mostly by electric with the adjustment at the neck, acoustics usually from within the sound hole) make the neck concave (adding relief) or convex (less relief.) The truss-rod adds to the stability of the neck by "forcing" (for lack of a better word) the neck into the shape you want.
Hey Daniel, I posted a quick video on our channel about the truss-rod and added some schtuff about neck tension and environment... just a bit more general thoughts about the oddly fragile yet incredibly rugged instrument we call the guitar!
Thank you
by melting the tip of the trebles carefully, you can be assured the bulge will not be pulled through a loop at the bridge
now
Like 👍
Man .. that was hard to follow. Over under over under ... huh ?!
EU NÃO ENTENDO A PALAVRAS EN
Sam ash needs to monetize these videos
he first says string it toward you for the 6th string then away from u for the first string what the fuck is this dude on about
OREO VIDEO ME VOITHISE PARA POLI
Can’t see what you are doing
You are putting your hand over the top of what you are talking about...cant see it.
Lol this has to be the easiest thing to do in life.
GREAT VIDEO but I'm not a "guy" :)
Who cares lol
the martin one is so much better
this camera man cannot hold a focus
Thanks for the help. I was used to stringing electric and steel string acoustic, but I'd never dealt with tying them off at the bridge end. In future videos, you may want to use more gender neutral pronouns instead of using 'guys' all the time. Ana Vidovic and the rest of us female guitarists do a lot of restringing, too :O)
This is nice and easy to follow as a total beginner, but I'd probably appreciate it more if it didn't have the "now, if you're a gigging GUY".... Why do you think guitars are a guy thing? Most people i know that play guitar are ladies, as am I
completely agree, im a girl too
Merriam-Webster definition 1b;
guy noun (1)
\ ˈgī \
Definition of guy (Entry 1 of 4)
1a : MAN, FELLOW
b : PERSON -used in plural to refer to the members of a group regardless of sex
“saw her and the rest of the guys”
2 : INDIVIDUAL, CREATURE
“The other dogs pale in comparison to this little guy.”
He didn't mention stretching each string once it's on until it holds its pitch. If you don't stretch them you'll spend more time retuning than playing.
I cant believe you left that out. I guess that's cause it's a " how to" from a string manufacturer not a player.
none of the videos say you have to do this , i thought these where ''professional'' players ...
play electric myself and always need to stretch the F out of them or the damn things won't stay in tune ...
you're right , they need to be stretched , always
Changing to a different set made me lose intonation. 😭
new strings may not be the same diameter as the old set...
I don't understand why it's necessary to go so fast, saying over and under when there is also left and right front and back options is infuriating
He talks too fast for me to catch everything
keep the dislike button youtube
Too much talk not enough action!
too much info., string pops right out, too much BS about other stuff, the basics is all i need.
Pro Arte=Greatest Nylon/Carbon/Classical guitar string company in history
Pro arte is not a company lol