In this video we demonstrate and explain the tuck pointing process. Yamhill County Chimney. Please visit us at: yamhillcountych... or Call us at 503-583-0766.
Nice job I like the way you explain the mortar pressure from the back of the bag thanks good way to explain it, I hate it when I try to leave a joint because it looks half good oh how I hate that in the end you're like why didn't I grind it out. And make it look perfect like all your other work. You know your stuff right on, looking for a good video to show to my novices
Why type S? And how would you decide if another type like type N should be used? What type mortar would be appropriate for a masonry chimney inside an attic space?
I would never suggest a type S nor would any educated mason or engineer. A type N, type O, or a 1-1-7 mix should be used. When a type s is used the brick usually suffers damage and the mortar leaves shelves for water to sit on deteriorating the brick and creating cracks for water to get in.
What's the best way to do cleanup of all the mortar around the chimney without damaging/discoloring the roof? Did you hose it off before it dried? Did you let it dry first? Shopvac?
It's a shame you will damage this already damaged chimney. Why are you using type S to tuck point old brinks which already show severe spaulding? You should use mortar that is weaker than the bricks themselves or the brick surfaces will flake off after a number of freeze thaw cycles. You should never use type S, or even type N. In this case type O would be appropriate. 1 portland cement, 2 parts mason’s hydrated lime, and 8 or 9 parts sand.
Spalling* is the word. It seems the whole art and knowledge of brick laying is being lost in America. I keep seeing these videos about mortars, 2 parts sand 1 part cement, bonding glues in the mix? Pointless. It will catch up with you all one day. Although you are right Kevan Gogh the softer the brick the softer the mortar. You cant beat lime mortar, that's why we still have castles to this day in the uk, no glues, if you were strong enough you could climb to the top of any castle and simply lift the top stones off.
On the top part, do you put the cement all the way to the flu? Or leave a gap? I noticed my chimney has a few cracked bricks and the top part has cracked in four spots which may be why there is a gap there. And whomever did the damn tuck pointing didn’t strike it either
@@smokeeater8387 yes it's called a flaunching and it's to seal the top of the chimney for weather. If you dont have a cowl on your chimney pots and a cracked flaunching then you'll get water coming into it your home when it rains
Nice job I like the way you explain the mortar pressure from the back of the bag thanks good way to explain it, I hate it when I try to leave a joint because it looks half good oh how I hate that in the end you're like why didn't I grind it out. And make it look perfect like all your other work. You know your stuff right on, looking for a good video to show to my novices
thanks for video. lots of good tips. I've watched a bunch of these videos but still picked up some things from yours. thanks
Nice job I learned quite a lot from this cheers from the UK.
peter ryan don’t listen to this mate go watch someone who does it properly
Comedy gold
He's icing a cake ffs
You make it look too easy. I might even try the job myself now 😯
I learned a lot, thanks for sharing a very detailed video
Why were the top lines under the cap, skipped??
Thanks for sharing your skill and techniques. Your quality work shows.
Here in the UK. We would've used a grinder to grind old joints out before repoint.
He did.....
he did lol he just didn't show it you can't use a mortar bag if you don't grind the joints
And ground out every single joint, here in Michigan. 100% perfect work the only way to go
5 inch blade get it deep
@@Ray-ie8dxdid not grind the last joint at the top, it was too hard to grind must be using a sponge grinder
Great video. Thanks for passing on your knowledge.
Best demonstration I've seen.
Looks terrific
Thanks for sharing, beautiful work!
Why type S? And how would you decide if another type like type N should be used? What type mortar would be appropriate for a masonry chimney inside an attic space?
Good question, he shouldn't be using type S on this whatsoever. He should be using type O.
I would never suggest a type S nor would any educated mason or engineer. A type N, type O, or a 1-1-7 mix should be used. When a type s is used the brick usually suffers damage and the mortar leaves shelves for water to sit on deteriorating the brick and creating cracks for water to get in.
"Hey, little Mr. 🐝, you're butting into my f#*king commercial...go make your own damn video!" Haha!
Big help . Thanks
Thanks for the help on how to properly do this. My chimney is about this size. Would one bag of type s be enough or should I get two?
If you don't make your joints as massive and sloppy as him one bag will be enough
How did it go?
How much you charge for that chimney?
What's the best way to do cleanup of all the mortar around the chimney without damaging/discoloring the roof? Did you hose it off before it dried? Did you let it dry first? Shopvac?
Always use a canvas tarp. Harbor Freight has a 4x12 that's dirt cheap and good quality. Saves you a ton of time on cleanup.
@@barkybarker2592 Thanks!!!
I see you know what you’re doing but to be honest I kinda liked the mortar without the tuck point. It looked kind of rustic or early American.
How do you charge for tuck pointing?
Damn good job
Immaculate.
Hawk and pointing tools .
It's a shame you will damage this already damaged chimney. Why are you using type S to tuck point old brinks which already show severe spaulding? You should use mortar that is weaker than the bricks themselves or the brick surfaces will flake off after a number of freeze thaw cycles. You should never use type S, or even type N. In this case type O would be appropriate. 1 portland cement, 2 parts mason’s hydrated lime, and 8 or 9 parts sand.
that would be weak as shit the point is to keep the surface together and dusty type O in or rebuild it for your heart desire
Spalling* is the word. It seems the whole art and knowledge of brick laying is being lost in America. I keep seeing these videos about mortars, 2 parts sand 1 part cement, bonding glues in the mix? Pointless. It will catch up with you all one day.
Although you are right Kevan Gogh the softer the brick the softer the mortar.
You cant beat lime mortar, that's why we still have castles to this day in the uk, no glues, if you were strong enough you could climb to the top of any castle and simply lift the top stones off.
It doesn’t freeze in the Willamette Valley. Or very infrequently. I don’t think spalling is as big an issue.
On the top part, do you put the cement all the way to the flu? Or leave a gap? I noticed my chimney has a few cracked bricks and the top part has cracked in four spots which may be why there is a gap there. And whomever did the damn tuck pointing didn’t strike it either
@@smokeeater8387 yes it's called a flaunching and it's to seal the top of the chimney for weather. If you dont have a cowl on your chimney pots and a cracked flaunching then you'll get water coming into it your home when it rains
Nice job man...cant fault it : )
Drop clothes would of been easy to bring up.
Craftsman. Thank you.
This is not tuckpointing, it's repointing.
Why did you only do half a job ? Also what the hell is that flashing all about lol
seems like an awful lot of waste.
All you are doing is repointing,it’s not tuck pointing, misleading video