Two things about ghost triggering. Don’t tighten the small screws that hold the board too much. Try starting with snug and back off a quarter turn. Second, set the device on soft foam or rubber/gel etc. while playing. Fixed it 90% for me.You can test ghost triggers by recording midi playing a predictable pattern and analyze the piano roll to find the ghosts.
Highly recommended mod! I performed the mod about 2 years ago on on the same model of the video and an MPK mini, which both I got rid of after heavy use... Worked flawlessly after modding it. Beware of tightening the screws too much and excessive tape, as it literally drowns sensitivity...mine had issues on almost every single center pad... A recommended mod for any MPD,MPK,MPC. Any padded AKAI model, especially the mid-2010 decade ones.
Solution is circular Yard Sale Stickers. USE A HOLE PUNCHER TO MAKE AN LED HOLE....ONE sticker per pad, apply to the shiny side of the sensor sheet using Tweezers so you get it absolutely centered. Next, put the tiny screws into the Pad Backplate. Tighten as far as they can go then ROLL BACK by two Quarter Turns (1/4th of a turn). Get the 4 Big Screws put into the Knob area, it's okay if you do them Tight. Now, to put the back plastic cover on -- Tighten each screw fully then ROLL BACK two Quarter Turns. If successful, there won't be any accidental adjacent triggers.
I'm mechanic with a background in electronics so I view this problem through that lens. From what I make out in the video the semi transparent sheet (membrane) has a carbon pad on one side and the circuit board is etched with an array of contacts aka switches. This is a flexible switch (via the carbon) and it is deformed based on the way the rubber pad is displaced by your fingers. Very similar to switches on a microwave, but those are simpler.The rubber pads are a continuous structure and they are sandwiched between the the upper case, the membrane and the circuit board. Basically from the design school of suck. When you bam a pad your finger it may trigger a ripple in the rubber (think wave on the water) that will nudge into the membrane which is the top half of the switch. The clearance between the membrane and the circuit board maybe only be 6 kunt hairs or 2 sheets of papers to civilians in the imperial scale, so it doesn't take much of a nudge to trigger a false note or a double trigger as you get happity slappity. The fix? In life as in all things sometimes things can get along with some lube. Not any lube mind you, put away the Astro gel. Some silicone dielectric grease used VERY sparingly around the plastic square holes where the rubber pads go through. I noticed some black plastic registration posts, they too should be lightly lubed. This keeps the rubber from binding in its respective hole. The rubber momentarily gets stuck in the upper case openings due perhaps to tight clearances or misalignment of the rubber membrane. The bottom line is that this is a crappy design mechanically. It would have been better to make a separate rubber pad with a separate membrane for each switch so that way the forces of drumming would have been isolated from each other. Instead we have this trampoline of pads held together by a flimsy case leaving many unhappy users. I am going to buy one of these POS and see what kind of mischief I can get into and try to find a kitchen sink solution. I need another hobby anyway.
Wow! Thanks for this contribution. It makes total sense. Please let me know your findings once you know more@ rob@questforgroove.com is the best way to reach me. I would appreciate that a lot!
Today I finally applied 1 layer of isolation tape to the pads of my AKAI MPK Mini Plus in an effort to improve them. The result is amazing. The device has turned from RSI inducing to actually fun to play. With these plastic boxes I suspect it pays to be mindful of the tightness of the screws which connect the bottom and top pieces of the housing.
Also, turn off the pads' aftertouch in settings to be sure. I'm flying. It's a nice all-in-one device for the price. (Only if you need something small)
Are you using those paper stickers made to label books etc? Have you noticed an improvement on the sensitivity? And how many layers have you used? Thank you very much beforehand!
@@joshguitarreiru sorry for late answer, i saw you question only right now..l use stickers for price, its small one's..and sensitivity improved a lot, usually i use 4 or 5 layers
I did it with my MPD226 and worked pretty well ! Thanks for all. I'm still having some double tap but at my level I can handle with it. I was about to sell it to take a better one but now I can wait a bit more for the best.
Tried gaffers tape (Too thick) and duct tape (some pads were ok, other's stuck), but standard blue painter's tape worked beautifully for me. Still not 100%, but far better than it was. Rather than overlapping 4 small strips, I made a paper template a few millimeters smaller than the backside of the pad, then marked the painter's tape with a pencil and got to cutting. For the LED holes, I just poked one out with a pencil before ripping the tape off. Since there's kind of a void there on the middle of the backside of the pad, the little bit of leftover tape that gets pushed through with the pencil doesn't seem to matter...I tried shaving those little bits off, but manipulating it too much will reduce the stickiness pretty quickly so I just left it alone.
Wooow, thank for the tip. It definitely works. I have used covering tape on all of the pads and it is muuuch better now. It is still not perfect but that unnatural feeling when some pads required much more force to trigger dissapeared completely.
I tried lots of different materials on mine a year ago, i found 2 layers of paper and double sided tape worked best on MPD218. thin silicon worked really well for my MV8000. On the MPD218 the tightness of the screws needs to be just right.
I experimented with adding either MPC Stuff material and regular tape to Mpd226. Yes, the sensitivity goes up. The major issue is this method prevents triggering of softest velocity notes. (1-20 or so), which diminishes dynamic range. Makes the pads significantly less playable for me unfortunately. I removed all material in the end.
In most DAWs you can change the velocity curve of individual midi devices, you can set the start of the curve at 20 (or whatever the minimum it can register). It'll take some time to get used to but you'll get access to the whole velocity range
I've played around with this quite a bit on the MPD218 and MPD226. I found the premade 'Corx' stickers from MPC stuff can improve the MPD218 just slightly. For MPD226 it didnt make much difference. Tape I never had much success with. You just end up chasing stuck pads or ghost triggers as you've also found. Corx stickers are expensive though for what they are. I only got them (free) because I ordered a set of fat pads for the MPD218 (which I now don't use because I now prefer the stock pads with the Corx stickers on the MPD218). These things are fun to tinker with though! Something you might try is swapping the sensor sheets between your 'good' and 'bad' MPD218's... I haven't tried it it but I've seen you have a few of these so it might be interesting to see if the sensor sheet makes a difference.
I got the same kit for my MPD 226 and it worked great. The sensitivity went way up and I don’t have really any dual triggering to speak of. I think these things are so sensitive that it’s kind of a luck of the draw. But I’m happy as a clam.
in some cases I really think that just taking the thing apart and putting it back together may be the actual fix. If the sensors get stuck or something just doing that would fix it potentially.
The design seems effective if done right but I believe at this point must rely too heavily on precision and quality manufacturing which akai has proven time and time again its facilities aren't capable of maintaining with all the duds out there. They will need to work on a new design that relies less heavily on their manufacturing process and can produce reliable result.
I bought a mpd 26 recently, I link it up with my MpcOne and it’s a beastly combo, but I believe the pads on the 26 are not as beastly as the mpc ones. I think I’ll ungrade to the fat pads
If I play with my elbows and my knees it works perfectly. The only problem I still have to solve is that I'm making as much noise as a real drummer. Thank you Akai for this experience!
Yeah, I had the same experience. Most finger drumming techniques were simply impossible. Read my solution at the comments before you throw it out of the window.
For someone wanting to try finger drumming for the first time and not spend too much money for a new hobby they're not sure they would pursue, I really do think MPD218 and this mod is a great option. I went exactly this route a couple months ago: tested three devices they had in a store, chose the best one (neither was perfect) and done this mod just a couple days later. It really is not difficult - takes about half an hour. I applied one layer on each pad and it really did improve overall sensivity. Later I also tested two layers, but that completely bricked the whole device so I went back to one layer and all is good! I can't compare it to Maschine as I've never used one, so not sure how close modded MPD becomes, but for what it costs I think it's great.
After a Mpk Mini mk2 bought and the same problems with the pads like this shit MPD218 I realized that once again I say it with my hand on my heart that Akai is a shit company who play with the nerves of the clients....
awesome, thanks. I might do this on mine. I'm busy editing a video for my review on maschine mk3 and akai mpd 218, I have the opposite recommendation to you, but I quote you (and credit you!) in the vid about the mpd218 quality control and pads being strange at times. It's cool to see there might be a fix... even if a bit fiddly :)
Just loosening the screws is enough to improve performance by a lot. I bought 2 and loosened the screws and already I’m only getting a rare ghost note, which I can live with.
Thanks! I actually did a normal test without a beat first, just hitting the pads hard but then figured that RUclips is entertainment as well so might as well make it more fun :-)
Apple computer simply doesn't play well with Akai! Spent 2 hours trying to download Akai "beat maker" software for editing my MPD218 pads and the app keeps crashing. Sorry but my Akai 218 and my other Akai keyboard/controller device will both be used to prop open my door (I need two hands to bring in the equipment I need that actually works with my mac)! There may be a place for Akai and their products, and I've enjoyed their home stereo stuff but I think there are other alternatives that "just work" with my Mac/Logic Pro setup. thanks for the video. Well done.
Good to know, thanks for sharing! I only use the devices in midi mode. Akai mpc software or maschine software.. I just don't know how to work with that.
Would you happen to know/recall/be able to find out which encoder types/parts are used within these units? I loved those encoder (but unfortunately already sold my unit) and would LOVE to build a 8-knob MIDI-controller DIY with these encoders.
Hey sorry I have no idea. I'm not very technical actually. Taking it apart and putting it back together without losing the screws is as far as irt goes for me.
Never seen the tape used. my buddy had his MPC corked, I guess that's an old school method. I think they actually sell 16 packs of circle cork stickers now to make it easier.
I heard some mixed stuff about the corks. With some mpc's they work well and with some other units they're a bit too much and mess things up. I think with this device, it seems one small extra layer of thin tape already kills everything, so it seems hard to imagine the corks somehow working.
@@TheQuestforGroove I wonder how think the new "ready made" corks are. I know people used to do it DIY in the past. Maybe the new ones are set up better. Thanks for the info though, definitely something to watch out for when doing a mod like this.
I bought this controller first when I wanted to start finger drumming, but it had way more issues than not registering soft hits : it was also almost impossible to trigger high velocity without bashing it way beyond the comfort zone for accuracy, and it was constantly triggering double/triple hits, on all pads. I did read about people putting electrical tape, but as a total beginner I had no idea what was the "right" feeling. It's too bad because it is an obvious first price with a big name on it, but you can't expect a beginner to void his warranty and start opening and fiddling with it, unless there's no way to have a refund and buy something else. Hopefully I could get a refund and replace it with an Atom with which I'm way happier.
Yeah this is the big problem with the mpd218's. The quality varies a lot. I bought two new mpd218's before recording this video and I could not use them because they were too good (insane but true). So I used and older device that was crappy enough. 2 years ago I had to buy 5 mpd218's to get 1 good one! So yeah.. it's sort of a lottery and you never know. Even if AKAI starts producing only great mpd218 devices as of today, which devices does your store have in stock? If they still have an older one lying around from 2 years ago it might still be crap even if you buy it "new" right now... Very difficult.
I'm also using paper stickers (small office labels), like Sergio Tempo does. My advice is not to put the stickers on the silicone pads. Use the upper side of the contact foil instead. You can handle the stickers more precisely, and they stick better. You probably need multiple layers of stickers until you get the right thickness for a pad. That's trial-and-error, but good for precision (electrical tape is too thick). Optionally you can put a hole into each sticker for the LED light (use a belt punch). I'm happy with the result, but finding the right amount of sticker layers took a half day. Shame on Akai.
Thanks! My girlfriend got it for me for christmas and I had to try it on so we could return it if it did not fit. Needless to say I'm gonna keep it because it looks fly :-)
"I'm going to release a best buy guide soon" ... Have your recommendations changed much since your last pad controller recommendation video? I'm in the market for a new pad controller, and I'm wondering if you've made any major discoveries or added any new devices to your list. Would you suggest waiting to hear what you have to say in that video before making a purchase?
No not really. I basically plan to explain why for most people a Maschine mikro mk3 or launchpad x / pro mk3 or maybe nekyar aura is the best choice. No big surprises or changes in my recommendations I was already making.
@@TheQuestforGroove cool! Thanks again for the great content. I've been wondering about this electrical tape trick on the akai for a while and I'm glad you took the time to test it out. The process definitely looks tedious and frustrating
Yeah you can always try. I took apart many controllers and as long as you do it carefully it's not that scary actually. No guarantee success though. This does not seem to work for every mpd218.
I have no clue how the first 3 pads stopped working on my MPD226. One day a couple years ago, switched it on and to my surprise the pads just stopped working. No wrong doing of my own.
@@TheQuestforGroove There's some green/brown decay or erosion build up underneath or on the Pad 1 sensor. That's strange. I unscrewed it and see what's going. I'm cleaning it off but I may just have to order a new pad(s) sensor if no success today.
I bought a mpd 218 recently and it was perfect out the box but I don’t use it with a pc it’s connected directly to my one and no double triggering. Also if you look at the midi monitor data coming from mpd218 it has polypressure aftertouch info so sometimes confuses software that does not have this ability so I turn it off and set tempo to external to get solid hits
I just got one and it's perfect. Maybe the pad 15 is a little less sensitive than the rest, but still more than usable. They say on their website that they've swapped out the pads to the thicker MPC pads, which probably is the reason for the improved sensitivity and overall usability. One question though. What is after touch? Edit: found out what it is. But then one more question. Wouldn't note repeat stop working if you have the after touch turned off?
@@Eric-dd8bk it’s called channel pressure and it’s a parameter that you can assign in your daw but does not cause double triggering by itself but rather the programs that you use may get confuse if it’s assigned to a parameter that is undesirable . Turn it off on first row and keep it on on top and compare. I use modo drum and you can tweak the global velocity in the program since mpd218 velocity is dependent on the global velocity of the program you use. My fav ones addictive drums 2 , modo drums, mpc software.
just bought this and my problem is most a knob problem than a pad problem, they´re way too sensitive and activate without touching them, always sending midi signal, i use koala sampler so this makes a little imposible to perform/record, the problem persist if i use any other software, the knobs are just too sensitive they activate when i touch the pads... ¿what can i do?
That sucks man.. I haven't experienced this to be honest. Something you could do is put the device on this rubber mat they use to reduce washing machine noise. It absorbs shocks and maybe that will work!
Hey Rob, did you try swapping out the sensor sheets between MPD218's yet to see if that is a factor between the good MPD218's and the not so good ones?
Interesting... no I have not. I might do a little test where I buy the "corks pad upgrade" from Mpcstuff and then put those in one of the two that I bought. They're very similar so it would be a pretty good test to see what works. Might be able to throw in a new pad sensor sheet as well just for completeness sake.
Hi, I fixed my MPD218 with instructions from this tutorial and the sensitivity improved so much so thank you so much for creating this video. However, another problem I am facing now is involuntary flams. Is there a way to fix this as well? I'd greatly appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
I think that's a matter of balancing things out. So maybe a little less tape on one pad, or loosening a screq on the circuit board a little more near the place where the pad that flams is.
Thanks for such a quick reply. I didn't have this problem when the sensitivity was bad. It's a new problem that arose with improved sensitivity. However I'll tweak it around to see if I can fix. Thank you.
Is there a way to clean pads without opening the machines? I have Mc707, and the high C pad is getting stuck on, or it is not responding. I would rather send it for repair if it's a sensor issue. But if there is a way to clean it to see if I can avoid sending it in I would rather do that.
This is super helpful and worked on my LPD8. However, what would you recommend putting under the unit itself to stop the 'thuds' going down into my desk and booming the floor?
I buy one and came nice ones..... One thing I need some help. I tried to change the pad layout with drum rack in ableton 11 and I can´t figure how to have 2 pads with kick or hot to double any pad. Help please! Rsss Thanks
Thank you for the video. I am considering the MPD. I have read lots about the double triggering issue with this device. But I also heard that Akai has addressed this issue and the new.batch of MPD's no longer have that issue. Can you confirm of this is true? Thank you
It's impossible to say. The quality fluctuates. What does "the last batch" mean? If you order a unit online, you might get an older one that's been lying in a warehouse for a while. Or the batch before the last batch was very good, so everyone says the last batch is great, when there's actually another, even newer batch of shitty units out there that was just produced. I hate to say it, but there are no real guarantees in the midi pad controller pad responsiveness space. The only way to go is to order one and test it out. Or better even, order 3 and see which one is the best and return the other two.
Dont know where to ask this, so I figured I'd just engage with your latest video :D - Anyways, do you know how to send LED midi feedback to an ATOM drum pad? I have a tune with a rack, and everything is programmed in. I have my Atom, and I want to be able to learn my drum part quickly, and so I want to see the pads light up when the part plays in the song, so I can memorize the visuals and all that and learn the part. I believe the Push, and launchpad can do this easily, but how about the ATOM? I haven't had as much luck. I'd smash the hell out of that like button if you made a video about this. Fellow Questers, like if you want to see this answered! Thanks for your videos.
I sure hope someone can help out with this. I personally have no idea. If you get no answer here, feel free to try on the QFG messageboards as well >> questforgroove.discourse.group
The thing is some people will say they issues are fixed and some people will say the opposite. I think that's exactly the problem. The quality varies between devices and over time so you simply cannot predict what you're gonna get. If yoi can return the unit and get your money back it is worth a try since the device is cheap and can be good.
Thanks so much for this. I tried on a few pads and it worked great. The Sensitivity is much better? One issue though is I no longer get the red light triggered when I hit those pads. Did I do something wrong?
Update: I went back in to make put smaller piece of tape (thinking that would help the light problem) now none of the pads work. Not sure what I did but all the pads stopped working. even the ones with no tape.
@@TheQuestforGroove Thanks. I am not sure what happened either. I may have messed something up on the motherboard. Anyway, I think its time to get the machine micro anyway. that will get me the desired pad sensitivity without having to open up!
Once I managed to improve pads in same manner, with e-tape, on my old mpd26. Hope, the guy who bought it from me is happy of that. Currently looking for a reasonable alternative for finger drumming without paying all 💰 of the world. So, modded Mpd 226 or LP X ?
I know from you about its pads sensitivity, but are they big enough for comfortable playing? Quantity of pads available for loops or other extras is also advantage for me.
Yeah you get used to the size. Obviously bigger pads are more comfortable to play with your eyes closed but if you also have a purpose for the 8x8 pads other than finger drumming I think the launchpad x is great
Looks like the best tape would be 11mm wide, cut into 27mm long sections. However, I've found that that the exact dimensions are not critical - every last spot does not need to be covered. However, thickness *is* critical. I started with gaffer's tape - 0.31mm thick (I'm using micrometer - a relatively handy device, given how useful it is) ... the gaffer's tape was too thick - the pads were on all them time. Tried blue painter's tape - 0.11mm thick - too thin and had almost no effect. Then found some marking tape that was 0.17mm thick - worked like a charm. Used it on all the pads. My tape is 12.6 mm wide, and I do let it overhang the pads on the outside a bit ... does not seem to cause a problem. Thanks SO MUCH for this video Robert!!
So I fixed the double triggering for the MPD218 and it plays well on keys & synth. When I use a drum patch it will double trigger occasionally. I couldn’t get it to do it once with a different sound. Is there something going on with the midi where it is sending data or an after touch? Maybe a release data is being sent when using the drum patch? I saw another use say they had issues with certain OS’s and usb cables. Anyone experienced anything similar?
That seems almost impossible to me. Double triggering is not dependent on the sound used. It's just midi notes... all I can think of is that the triggers are very soft and therefore not audible on for example piano where the drum sounds might be more boosted and therefore you hear them, even when the midi note triggering them is very soft.
You need to make an account but I do have detailed setup instructions on my website (in the 100% free beginner course). EZ drummer is not the best in terms of easy setup but it can be done. In your case you will need to look here for EZ drummer details: questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/exceptional-situations/other-drum-software-besides-ad2/
I have only had the MPD218 for quite a while and I’m currently having issues with pads 8 and 12 that are double/ghost triggering. Shall I apply tape on both pads 8 and 12? Even after I have loosened the screws?
That's difficult because applying tape might make them even more sensitive. The only thing you can do is try stuff. Maybe put tape on the surrounding pads for example.. but there's no clear winning formula. Some things work for some people, some things work for others and some folks just don't seem to get their mpd218 fixed.
@@TheQuestforGroove I’ve already tried that method for pad 12. I even slightly loosened the screws. I don’t wanna give on try any akai professional product but this one has worked my nerves.
@@TheQuestforGroove it’s all good. At least when I bought my MPK Mini MK3 I had no problems with it at all though. So basically I’ll just have to make sure that everything is all good though. So even if I do buy another AKAI Product, I would have to make sure that everything is all good. So at least I can take it back to Amazon though.
Hey your videos are really helpful. I wanted to ask if it's possible to change velocity of the pads. For example, i want to assign 2 of the pads with same sample of hihat. But one full volume and one half volume. Can you do this to function in FL studio without manually adjust it in piano roll every time?
There are a couple of ways to do something like that. You might want to quickly sign up for my (100% free) beginner course and then watch my lesson about Velocity Curves in Addictive drums. This might not be 100% your situation but you will then understand what needs to be done. questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/lets-play/velocity-curves/ For FL studio I don't know the answer because I've never used it. Big chance you can make it happen though.
@@TheQuestforGroove got one more question 😋 Really stupid that there is no in depth user manual. Don't know where to find answers to my quetions. So... I would like to program the scales on pads. I managed to set c minor scale on B pad bank and c major on C pad bank. But is it possible to put c minor on B pad bank programmed on 1st pad, than c#minor on B pad bank programmed on 2nd pad etc? If you understand me. Doing all these thru editor. When i choose scales in auto populate and put c minor on 1st channel, then c# minor on 2nd channel, it just overwrites c minor. Sorry for the long text
It depends on the unit. It's a combination of applying tape and loosening or tightening the screws on the circuit board, finding the right balance between responsiveness and not having pads accidentally double trigger. I heard from some people who got great results and other folks who never managed to pull it off the right way. No golden solution unfortunately :-(
Addictive Drums 2. I always recommend the Custom starter pack with 3 kits. And then select the Black Oyster, Fairfax 1 and Funk. That's a great starting point. You can always buy more kits when there's a sale. Usually in the spring, summer and on black friday.
Hey man, i have a MPX8 laying around and i need a midi controller for my drum VSTs. I cant find a good way to pair the mpx8 up as a midi controller, and looking on the web seems mpx8 is kind a joke product where korg did all wrong. Do you think there is any salvation for it or should i look for something more specific for midi VST drumming?
Hey, I don't know any specifics, but on the AKAI website it does say that the MPX8 has USB MIDI plus standard MIDI inputs and outputs. So there should be two different ways to use it as a midi controller. If you use the midi out, you will need a midi input (sometimes your audio interface has one) and with the usb output it should just be able to send midi over usb, which most devices do. It would be weird if this is not possible since they advertise it on their website.
That can have many reasons. Sometimes the usb hub needs more power, in some rare cases a USB driver is not properly installed on your system and ofcourse there's always a small chance the device is actually broken. Best way to check is to plug it directly into another computer (no hubs) and see what happens. That way you can slowly but surely eliminate what could be the problem.
@@TheQuestforGroove ok so I noticed when I lean my cord, the light is on but I can’t hear my pads. Do I need to do the same thing you did in the video?
Best thing I can do for you is my free beginner course (you do need to create an account and log in, but it is free), which has this lesson: questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/device-specific-setup-guides/akai-mpd218-226-232/
The akai mpd series is some of the worst drum pads I've seen yet. Double triggering occurs so often it's impossible to play accurately. Maschine mk3 is far far superior. It's too bad nobody is making a midi controller that is just like the maschine. Minus the software.
Akai sucks. They used to be great. Now.... They make cheap garbage. I ordered two different mpd's and they have double trigger issues. Maschine is perfect. If only someone made a maschine controller that was just a maschine controller. No fancy stuff
I agree, no more Akai devices. The double trigger issue is the one I still have after fixing the pad sensitivity (see my other comment). I think it can be fixed, but you need some electronic / programming skills. My plan is to put the ESP32-C3 micro controller (MC) into the MPD218 case. The MC was a gift from the manufacturer (ESP32 series is pretty cheap anyway, ~5$). If the same series of MIDI events is coming twice at a very short time, the MC is able to delete the second series. Just for the nerds: It can be programmed by the Arduino IDE, uses FreeRTOS (low latency) and has TinyUSB library support, which can deal with MIDI events.
I had a conversation with the MC manufacturer, so I have to correct myself at one point. The ESP32-C3 doesn't have the ability to deal with USB-MIDI, but the ESP32-S2 has. So the S2 (solder-friendly dev board, still ~5$) is the one to get. The USB library for the S2 is called "EspTinyUSB", and can be downloaded by the Arduino library manager. @TheQuestForGroove I've seen a couple of MPD218 laying around at your place (friends?). Do you want an info, in case I make it work? You'll need basic soldering skills for the hardware part. PS: I'm from Germany, so my English won't be perfect all the time.
►► Learn all the basics of Finger Drumming for FREE on → questforgroove.com
First. Shalom.
Two things about ghost triggering. Don’t tighten the small screws that hold the board too much. Try starting with snug and back off a quarter turn. Second, set the device on soft foam or rubber/gel etc. while playing. Fixed it 90% for me.You can test ghost triggers by recording midi playing a predictable pattern and analyze the piano roll to find the ghosts.
this has not worked for me but thanks for the suggestion!
@@jordanielmills
Perhaps it's because you're incompetent!!
Highly recommended mod! I performed the mod about 2 years ago on on the same model of the video and an MPK mini, which both I got rid of after heavy use... Worked flawlessly after modding it. Beware of tightening the screws too much and excessive tape, as it literally drowns sensitivity...mine had issues on almost every single center pad...
A recommended mod for any MPD,MPK,MPC. Any padded AKAI model, especially the mid-2010 decade ones.
Solution is circular Yard Sale Stickers. USE A HOLE PUNCHER TO MAKE AN LED HOLE....ONE sticker per pad, apply to the shiny side of the sensor sheet using Tweezers so you get it absolutely centered. Next, put the tiny screws into the Pad Backplate. Tighten as far as they can go then ROLL BACK by two Quarter Turns (1/4th of a turn).
Get the 4 Big Screws put into the Knob area, it's okay if you do them Tight. Now, to put the back plastic cover on -- Tighten each screw fully then ROLL BACK two Quarter Turns. If successful, there won't be any accidental adjacent triggers.
I'm mechanic with a background in electronics so I view this problem through that lens. From what I make out in the video the semi transparent sheet (membrane) has a carbon pad on one side and the circuit board is etched with an array of contacts aka switches. This is a flexible switch (via the carbon) and it is deformed based on the way the rubber pad is displaced by your fingers. Very similar to switches on a microwave, but those are simpler.The rubber pads are a continuous structure and they are sandwiched between the the upper case, the membrane and the circuit board. Basically from the design school of suck.
When you bam a pad your finger it may trigger a ripple in the rubber (think wave on the water) that will nudge into the membrane which is the top half of the switch. The clearance between the membrane and the circuit board maybe only be 6 kunt hairs or 2 sheets of papers to civilians in the imperial scale, so it doesn't take much of a nudge to trigger a false note or a double trigger as you get happity slappity.
The fix? In life as in all things sometimes things can get along with some lube. Not any lube mind you, put away the Astro gel. Some silicone dielectric grease used VERY sparingly around the plastic square holes where the rubber pads go through. I noticed some black plastic registration posts, they too should be lightly lubed. This keeps the rubber from binding in its respective hole. The rubber momentarily gets stuck in the upper case openings due perhaps to tight clearances or misalignment of the rubber membrane.
The bottom line is that this is a crappy design mechanically. It would have been better to make a separate rubber pad with a separate membrane for each switch so that way the forces of drumming would have been isolated from each other. Instead we have this trampoline of pads held together by a flimsy case leaving many unhappy users.
I am going to buy one of these POS and see what kind of mischief I can get into and try to find a kitchen sink solution. I need another hobby anyway.
Wow! Thanks for this contribution. It makes total sense. Please let me know your findings once you know more@ rob@questforgroove.com is the best way to reach me. I would appreciate that a lot!
Any news on this? @@TheQuestforGroove
@@MrReichStorer Have not heard from him unfortunately.
Today I finally applied 1 layer of isolation tape to the pads of my AKAI MPK Mini Plus in an effort to improve them. The result is amazing. The device has turned from RSI inducing to actually fun to play.
With these plastic boxes I suspect it pays to be mindful of the tightness of the screws which connect the bottom and top pieces of the housing.
Also, turn off the pads' aftertouch in settings to be sure. I'm flying. It's a nice all-in-one device for the price. (Only if you need something small)
I'm use paper stickers and don't have fantom triggering, thanks for video..
Good one, thanks! I pinned this comment so othet people might read it and be helped by this.
Are you using those paper stickers made to label books etc? Have you noticed an improvement on the sensitivity? And how many layers have you used?
Thank you very much beforehand!
@@joshguitarreiru sorry for late answer, i saw you question only right now..l use stickers for price, its small one's..and sensitivity improved a lot, usually i use 4 or 5 layers
@@sergio_tempo Many thanks mate! :)
Green circular Yard Sale Stickers with a Hole Puncher in the center for the LED hole.
I did it with my MPD226 and worked pretty well ! Thanks for all. I'm still having some double tap but at my level I can handle with it. I was about to sell it to take a better one but now I can wait a bit more for the best.
I find watching what you did to that poor thing both deeply terrifying and satisfying.
...."if something is not working, no aggression".... :)))))) ..... That was cool :) .... thanks for the video, respect!
This comes at the right time! Just got my MPD218 and was about doing that! thx for the content!
Tried gaffers tape (Too thick) and duct tape (some pads were ok, other's stuck), but standard blue painter's tape worked beautifully for me. Still not 100%, but far better than it was. Rather than overlapping 4 small strips, I made a paper template a few millimeters smaller than the backside of the pad, then marked the painter's tape with a pencil and got to cutting. For the LED holes, I just poked one out with a pencil before ripping the tape off. Since there's kind of a void there on the middle of the backside of the pad, the little bit of leftover tape that gets pushed through with the pencil doesn't seem to matter...I tried shaving those little bits off, but manipulating it too much will reduce the stickiness pretty quickly so I just left it alone.
Wooow, thank for the tip. It definitely works. I have used covering tape on all of the pads and it is muuuch better now. It is still not perfect but that unnatural feeling when some pads required much more force to trigger dissapeared completely.
I tried lots of different materials on mine a year ago, i found 2 layers of paper and double sided tape worked best on MPD218. thin silicon worked really well for my MV8000. On the MPD218 the tightness of the screws needs to be just right.
I tried on mine, and it's working PERFECT. Thank you so much.
just create your own pad controller, we know you can
I actually looked into this and the parts you need are really impossible to get
EDIT: a company like Tangio has the sensors you need though...
Basic stuff with good sensors + cheap + portability in order to play everywhere.
This is fantastic! I've got one of those tucked in a closet for exactly this reason...
I experimented with adding either MPC Stuff material and regular tape to Mpd226. Yes, the sensitivity goes up.
The major issue is this method prevents triggering of softest velocity notes. (1-20 or so), which diminishes dynamic range. Makes the pads significantly less playable for me unfortunately. I removed all material in the end.
In most DAWs you can change the velocity curve of individual midi devices, you can set the start of the curve at 20 (or whatever the minimum it can register). It'll take some time to get used to but you'll get access to the whole velocity range
I've played around with this quite a bit on the MPD218 and MPD226. I found the premade 'Corx' stickers from MPC stuff can improve the MPD218 just slightly. For MPD226 it didnt make much difference. Tape I never had much success with. You just end up chasing stuck pads or ghost triggers as you've also found. Corx stickers are expensive though for what they are. I only got them (free) because I ordered a set of fat pads for the MPD218 (which I now don't use because I now prefer the stock pads with the Corx stickers on the MPD218). These things are fun to tinker with though! Something you might try is swapping the sensor sheets between your 'good' and 'bad' MPD218's... I haven't tried it it but I've seen you have a few of these so it might be interesting to see if the sensor sheet makes a difference.
Hey good ideas there! Im curious to see what more solutions are out there.
I got the same kit for my MPD 226 and it worked great. The sensitivity went way up and I don’t have really any dual triggering to speak of. I think these things are so sensitive that it’s kind of a luck of the draw. But I’m happy as a clam.
It look's nice but it cost too much to import it to europe unfortunately (68$).
in some cases I really think that just taking the thing apart and putting it back together may be the actual fix. If the sensors get stuck or something just doing that would fix it potentially.
Yeah maybe for a sticky pad or something or the pad sensor sheet not lined up well.
If Akai were smart enough, they would watch this video and make a second version of this controller.
The design seems effective if done right but I believe at this point must rely too heavily on precision and quality manufacturing which akai has proven time and time again its facilities aren't capable of maintaining with all the duds out there. They will need to work on a new design that relies less heavily on their manufacturing process and can produce reliable result.
I wouldn’t like to screw that much but thank you for checking out things for us.
This is crazy! LOL I'm going to try this on my MPD218. Thanks a lot for the great idea.
I bought a mpd 26 recently, I link it up with my MpcOne and it’s a beastly combo, but I believe the pads on the 26 are not as beastly as the mpc ones. I think I’ll ungrade to the fat pads
If I play with my elbows and my knees it works perfectly. The only problem I still have to solve is that I'm making as much noise as a real drummer. Thank you Akai for this experience!
Yeah, I had the same experience. Most finger drumming techniques were simply impossible. Read my solution at the comments before you throw it out of the window.
For someone wanting to try finger drumming for the first time and not spend too much money for a new hobby they're not sure they would pursue, I really do think MPD218 and this mod is a great option. I went exactly this route a couple months ago: tested three devices they had in a store, chose the best one (neither was perfect) and done this mod just a couple days later. It really is not difficult - takes about half an hour. I applied one layer on each pad and it really did improve overall sensivity. Later I also tested two layers, but that completely bricked the whole device so I went back to one layer and all is good! I can't compare it to Maschine as I've never used one, so not sure how close modded MPD becomes, but for what it costs I think it's great.
After a Mpk Mini mk2 bought and the same problems with the pads like this shit MPD218 I realized that once again I say it with my hand on my heart that Akai is a shit company who play with the nerves of the clients....
awesome, thanks. I might do this on mine. I'm busy editing a video for my review on maschine mk3 and akai mpd 218, I have the opposite recommendation to you, but I quote you (and credit you!) in the vid about the mpd218 quality control and pads being strange at times. It's cool to see there might be a fix... even if a bit fiddly :)
Just loosening the screws is enough to improve performance by a lot. I bought 2 and loosened the screws and already I’m only getting a rare ghost note, which I can live with.
Great performance at the end!
Thanks! I actually did a normal test without a beat first, just hitting the pads hard but then figured that RUclips is entertainment as well so might as well make it more fun :-)
@@TheQuestforGroove That was a good idea! It is very inspirational to see you jamming!
Apple computer simply doesn't play well with Akai! Spent 2 hours trying to download Akai "beat maker" software for editing my MPD218 pads and the app keeps crashing. Sorry but my Akai 218 and my other Akai keyboard/controller device will both be used to prop open my door (I need two hands to bring in the equipment I need that actually works with my mac)! There may be a place for Akai and their products, and I've enjoyed their home stereo stuff but I think there are other alternatives that "just work" with my Mac/Logic Pro setup. thanks for the video. Well done.
Good to know, thanks for sharing! I only use the devices in midi mode. Akai mpc software or maschine software.. I just don't know how to work with that.
Would you happen to know/recall/be able to find out which encoder types/parts are used within these units? I loved those encoder (but unfortunately already sold my unit) and would LOVE to build a 8-knob MIDI-controller DIY with these encoders.
Hey sorry I have no idea. I'm not very technical actually. Taking it apart and putting it back together without losing the screws is as far as irt goes for me.
U should try useing the super pads light on a phone for the lunchpad
Are the pads soft? Do they respond well to touch? You recommend this tool?
no the pads are hard and thats why they are so awesome. I love the response even tho its not tweakable.
Never seen the tape used. my buddy had his MPC corked, I guess that's an old school method. I think they actually sell 16 packs of circle cork stickers now to make it easier.
I heard some mixed stuff about the corks. With some mpc's they work well and with some other units they're a bit too much and mess things up. I think with this device, it seems one small extra layer of thin tape already kills everything, so it seems hard to imagine the corks somehow working.
@@TheQuestforGroove I wonder how think the new "ready made" corks are. I know people used to do it DIY in the past. Maybe the new ones are set up better. Thanks for the info though, definitely something to watch out for when doing a mod like this.
I bought this controller first when I wanted to start finger drumming, but it had way more issues than not registering soft hits : it was also almost impossible to trigger high velocity without bashing it way beyond the comfort zone for accuracy, and it was constantly triggering double/triple hits, on all pads. I did read about people putting electrical tape, but as a total beginner I had no idea what was the "right" feeling.
It's too bad because it is an obvious first price with a big name on it, but you can't expect a beginner to void his warranty and start opening and fiddling with it, unless there's no way to have a refund and buy something else. Hopefully I could get a refund and replace it with an Atom with which I'm way happier.
Yeah this is the big problem with the mpd218's. The quality varies a lot. I bought two new mpd218's before recording this video and I could not use them because they were too good (insane but true). So I used and older device that was crappy enough. 2 years ago I had to buy 5 mpd218's to get 1 good one! So yeah.. it's sort of a lottery and you never know. Even if AKAI starts producing only great mpd218 devices as of today, which devices does your store have in stock? If they still have an older one lying around from 2 years ago it might still be crap even if you buy it "new" right now... Very difficult.
I'm also using paper stickers (small office labels), like Sergio Tempo does. My advice is not to put the stickers on the silicone pads. Use the upper side of the contact foil instead. You can handle the stickers more precisely, and they stick better. You probably need multiple layers of stickers until you get the right thickness for a pad. That's trial-and-error, but good for precision (electrical tape is too thick). Optionally you can put a hole into each sticker for the LED light (use a belt punch). I'm happy with the result, but finding the right amount of sticker layers took a half day. Shame on Akai.
Cool tip! And cool shirt!
Thanks! My girlfriend got it for me for christmas and I had to try it on so we could return it if it did not fit. Needless to say I'm gonna keep it because it looks fly :-)
"I'm going to release a best buy guide soon" ... Have your recommendations changed much since your last pad controller recommendation video? I'm in the market for a new pad controller, and I'm wondering if you've made any major discoveries or added any new devices to your list. Would you suggest waiting to hear what you have to say in that video before making a purchase?
No not really. I basically plan to explain why for most people a Maschine mikro mk3 or launchpad x / pro mk3 or maybe nekyar aura is the best choice. No big surprises or changes in my recommendations I was already making.
@@TheQuestforGroove cool! Thanks again for the great content. I've been wondering about this electrical tape trick on the akai for a while and I'm glad you took the time to test it out. The process definitely looks tedious and frustrating
My mpd218 takes way too much pressure to play like a proper controller .i guess taking it apart is not going to lose anything
Yeah you can always try. I took apart many controllers and as long as you do it carefully it's not that scary actually. No guarantee success though. This does not seem to work for every mpd218.
I have no clue how the first 3 pads stopped working on my MPD226. One day a couple years ago, switched it on and to my surprise the pads just stopped working. No wrong doing of my own.
Crazy... that's the first time I heard a story like this. Usually the problem ocmes right out of the factory.
@@TheQuestforGroove There's some green/brown decay or erosion build up underneath or on the Pad 1 sensor. That's strange. I unscrewed it and see what's going. I'm cleaning it off but I may just have to order a new pad(s) sensor if no success today.
I bought a mpd 218 recently and it was perfect out the box but I don’t use it with a pc it’s connected directly to my one and no double triggering. Also if you look at the midi monitor data coming from mpd218 it has polypressure aftertouch info so sometimes confuses software that does not have this ability so I turn it off and set tempo to external to get solid hits
My latest mpd218 is great as well! Maybe Akai has stepped up its game :-)
@@TheQuestforGroove akai for the win and m audio second
I just got one and it's perfect.
Maybe the pad 15 is a little less sensitive than the rest, but still more than usable.
They say on their website that they've swapped out the pads to the thicker MPC pads, which probably is the reason for the improved sensitivity and overall usability.
One question though.
What is after touch?
Edit:
found out what it is. But then one more question. Wouldn't note repeat stop working if you have the after touch turned off?
@@Eric-dd8bk it’s called channel pressure and it’s a parameter that you can assign in your daw but does not cause double triggering by itself but rather the programs that you use may get confuse if it’s assigned to a parameter that is undesirable . Turn it off on first row and keep it on on top and compare. I use modo drum and you can tweak the global velocity in the program since mpd218 velocity is dependent on the global velocity of the program you use. My fav ones addictive drums 2 , modo drums, mpc software.
It also works for LPD8 ;-)
On my mpd218 there are pad that just don’t work like a few of then are just mapped to the wrong sample like I tried doing pad 1 but it goes to pad 2
This why i hate refurbished shit
Long term fix: sell it and get a Korg PadKontrol 😂
just bought this and my problem is most a knob problem than a pad problem, they´re way too sensitive and activate without touching them, always sending midi signal, i use koala sampler so this makes a little imposible to perform/record, the problem persist if i use any other software, the knobs are just too sensitive they activate when i touch the pads... ¿what can i do?
That sucks man.. I haven't experienced this to be honest. Something you could do is put the device on this rubber mat they use to reduce washing machine noise. It absorbs shocks and maybe that will work!
Hey Rob, did you try swapping out the sensor sheets between MPD218's yet to see if that is a factor between the good MPD218's and the not so good ones?
Interesting... no I have not. I might do a little test where I buy the "corks pad upgrade" from Mpcstuff and then put those in one of the two that I bought. They're very similar so it would be a pretty good test to see what works. Might be able to throw in a new pad sensor sheet as well just for completeness sake.
Hi, I fixed my MPD218 with instructions from this tutorial and the sensitivity improved so much so thank you so much for creating this video. However, another problem I am facing now is involuntary flams. Is there a way to fix this as well? I'd greatly appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
I think that's a matter of balancing things out. So maybe a little less tape on one pad, or loosening a screq on the circuit board a little more near the place where the pad that flams is.
Thanks for such a quick reply. I didn't have this problem when the sensitivity was bad. It's a new problem that arose with improved sensitivity. However I'll tweak it around to see if I can fix. Thank you.
Is there a way to clean pads without opening the machines? I have Mc707, and the high C pad is getting stuck on, or it is not responding. I would rather send it for repair if it's a sensor issue. But if there is a way to clean it to see if I can avoid sending it in I would rather do that.
You have to open it up to clean it.
I did this right after buying the akai :D
Are you happy with the result?
@@TheQuestforGroove Yes. But right now I'm using launchpad x.
I see. Thanks for sharing! Helps me a lot to know users experiences when recommending what controller to buy.
6:20 Pad is still missing a heat
But mines reacts like I’m playing flam. So second hit happens out of nowhere even though i hit the pad only once
Yeah it's a delicate process and it probably is also different for each controller.
This is super helpful and worked on my LPD8. However, what would you recommend putting under the unit itself to stop the 'thuds' going down into my desk and booming the floor?
This might help (a rubber pad to put a washing machine on). Made a video about it: ruclips.net/video/PFYx05EHbZY/видео.html
@@TheQuestforGroove - that video is gold! Thanks very much
I buy one and came nice ones..... One thing I need some help. I tried to change the pad layout with drum rack in ableton 11 and I can´t figure how to have 2 pads with kick or hot to double any pad. Help please! Rsss Thanks
I'm not an Ableton user, so I hope someone else who knows will read this and help out!
Thank you for the video. I am considering the MPD. I have read lots about the double triggering issue with this device. But I also heard that Akai has addressed this issue and the new.batch of MPD's no longer have that issue. Can you confirm of this is true? Thank you
It's impossible to say. The quality fluctuates. What does "the last batch" mean? If you order a unit online, you might get an older one that's been lying in a warehouse for a while. Or the batch before the last batch was very good, so everyone says the last batch is great, when there's actually another, even newer batch of shitty units out there that was just produced. I hate to say it, but there are no real guarantees in the midi pad controller pad responsiveness space. The only way to go is to order one and test it out. Or better even, order 3 and see which one is the best and return the other two.
@@TheQuestforGroove Thank you so much for your time. I appreciate you.
Dont know where to ask this, so I figured I'd just engage with your latest video :D - Anyways, do you know how to send LED midi feedback to an ATOM drum pad?
I have a tune with a rack, and everything is programmed in. I have my Atom, and I want to be able to learn my drum part quickly, and so I want to see the pads light up when the part plays in the song, so I can memorize the visuals and all that and learn the part. I believe the Push, and launchpad can do this easily, but how about the ATOM? I haven't had as much luck. I'd smash the hell out of that like button if you made a video about this. Fellow Questers, like if you want to see this answered! Thanks for your videos.
I sure hope someone can help out with this. I personally have no idea. If you get no answer here, feel free to try on the QFG messageboards as well >> questforgroove.discourse.group
Still worth buying these? I see some people say this issue has been fixed but recent reviews say otherwise. better alternatives for the money?
The thing is some people will say they issues are fixed and some people will say the opposite. I think that's exactly the problem. The quality varies between devices and over time so you simply cannot predict what you're gonna get. If yoi can return the unit and get your money back it is worth a try since the device is cheap and can be good.
У меня тоже была такая проблема только на machine mk2 я тоже так делал
И как оно? Нормально?
@@maximmm5462 да работает только я немного по другому в итоге сделал)оставишь ВК или почту я тебе фото скину покажу как сделал
@@alexresqw да не, я просто поинтересовался
Can I make the backlights stay on all the time? Cause I usually work in the dark
I don't think so. I haven't been able to do that.
My Mpd218 is like that since i open the box. And ı though it's normal cause i ve never use drumpad before ://
Thanks so much for this. I tried on a few pads and it worked great. The Sensitivity is much better? One issue though is I no longer get the red light triggered when I hit those pads. Did I do something wrong?
Update: I went back in to make put smaller piece of tape (thinking that would help the light problem) now none of the pads work. Not sure what I did but all the pads stopped working. even the ones with no tape.
You have to tape around the led light. it needs to be able to shine through. With tape over it the light will not be visible anymore.
No idea what happened there. I do know small differences in the amount of tape make a big difference in response as demonstrated in the video.
@@TheQuestforGroove Thanks. I am not sure what happened either. I may have messed something up on the motherboard. Anyway, I think its time to get the machine micro anyway. that will get me the desired pad sensitivity without having to open up!
@@TheNovemberSon It will! If the maschine mikro is not sensitive enough, you have a faulty unit, which is pretty rare 😀
Once I managed to improve pads in same manner, with e-tape, on my old mpd26. Hope, the guy who bought it from me is happy of that. Currently looking for a reasonable alternative for finger drumming without paying all 💰 of the world. So, modded Mpd 226 or LP X ?
I think launchpad x! Great device.
I know from you about its pads sensitivity, but are they big enough for comfortable playing? Quantity of pads available for loops or other extras is also advantage for me.
Yeah you get used to the size. Obviously bigger pads are more comfortable to play with your eyes closed but if you also have a purpose for the 8x8 pads other than finger drumming I think the launchpad x is great
What is the width of the tape your are using? The pads are 30mm (about 1 1/6"), so I'm guessing 1/2" tape would work??
Looks like the best tape would be 11mm wide, cut into 27mm long sections. However, I've found that that the exact dimensions are not critical - every last spot does not need to be covered.
However, thickness *is* critical. I started with gaffer's tape - 0.31mm thick (I'm using micrometer - a relatively handy device, given how useful it is) ... the gaffer's tape was too thick - the pads were on all them time. Tried blue painter's tape - 0.11mm thick - too thin and had almost no effect. Then found some marking tape that was 0.17mm thick - worked like a charm. Used it on all the pads. My tape is 12.6 mm wide, and I do let it overhang the pads on the outside a bit ... does not seem to cause a problem.
Thanks SO MUCH for this video Robert!!
Hey thanks for your two cents. I'm glad my video helped you out a bit!
Please : which the controllers have the softest keys ? I have a Korg nanopad 2
In my experience it doesnt make much of a difference. I think akai pads feel the softest if I had to choose.
So I fixed the double triggering for the MPD218 and it plays well on keys & synth. When I use a drum patch it will double trigger occasionally. I couldn’t get it to do it once with a different sound. Is there something going on with the midi where it is sending data or an after touch? Maybe a release data is being sent when using the drum patch? I saw another use say they had issues with certain OS’s and usb cables. Anyone experienced anything similar?
That seems almost impossible to me. Double triggering is not dependent on the sound used. It's just midi notes... all I can think of is that the triggers are very soft and therefore not audible on for example piano where the drum sounds might be more boosted and therefore you hear them, even when the midi note triggering them is very soft.
Yea I couldn’t get it to double trigger with the piano at all. That’s why I thought it could have been some sort of release data.
Well maybe... I have never experienced this though... Hopefully someone will see this here and help you out!
Hey Robert I have this model, can u provide details on how to assign drums from ez drummer 2 to the MPD218?
You need to make an account but I do have detailed setup instructions on my website (in the 100% free beginner course). EZ drummer is not the best in terms of easy setup but it can be done. In your case you will need to look here for EZ drummer details: questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/exceptional-situations/other-drum-software-besides-ad2/
@@TheQuestforGroove thanks!
I might as well utilize EZ drummer....the internal software that comes with MPD218 is easier?
@@MAntisLew1 Go to the Akai MPD218 product page, download "MPD218 - Editor v1.0.8", and you can edit the presets for each knob / pad.
I have only had the MPD218 for quite a while and I’m currently having issues with pads 8 and 12 that are double/ghost triggering. Shall I apply tape on both pads 8 and 12? Even after I have loosened the screws?
That's difficult because applying tape might make them even more sensitive. The only thing you can do is try stuff. Maybe put tape on the surrounding pads for example.. but there's no clear winning formula. Some things work for some people, some things work for others and some folks just don't seem to get their mpd218 fixed.
@@TheQuestforGroove I’ve already tried that method for pad 12. I even slightly loosened the screws. I don’t wanna give on try any akai professional product but this one has worked my nerves.
@@marvinjaysmr AKAI can be a real pain... sorry about that.
@@TheQuestforGroove it’s all good. At least when I bought my MPK Mini MK3 I had no problems with it at all though. So basically I’ll just have to make sure that everything is all good though. So even if I do buy another AKAI Product, I would have to make sure that everything is all good. So at least I can take it back to Amazon though.
Hey your videos are really helpful. I wanted to ask if it's possible to change velocity of the pads. For example, i want to assign 2 of the pads with same sample of hihat. But one full volume and one half volume. Can you do this to function in FL studio without manually adjust it in piano roll every time?
There are a couple of ways to do something like that. You might want to quickly sign up for my (100% free) beginner course and then watch my lesson about Velocity Curves in Addictive drums. This might not be 100% your situation but you will then understand what needs to be done. questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/lets-play/velocity-curves/
For FL studio I don't know the answer because I've never used it. Big chance you can make it happen though.
@@TheQuestforGroove thanks so much for quick answer. I'll check it out 🙌
@@TheQuestforGroove got one more question 😋
Really stupid that there is no in depth user manual. Don't know where to find answers to my quetions. So... I would like to program the scales on pads. I managed to set c minor scale on B pad bank and c major on C pad bank. But is it possible to put c minor on B pad bank programmed on 1st pad, than c#minor on B pad bank programmed on 2nd pad etc? If you understand me. Doing all these thru editor. When i choose scales in auto populate and put c minor on 1st channel, then c# minor on 2nd channel, it just overwrites c minor. Sorry for the long text
Hey no problem if you ask questions! Unfortunately I have never encountered something similar, so I do not have the answer to this. :-(
@@TheQuestforGroove ok, np. I appreciate your time. Maybe someone else knows the solution :)
So… the solution is to apply black tape?
It depends on the unit. It's a combination of applying tape and loosening or tightening the screws on the circuit board, finding the right balance between responsiveness and not having pads accidentally double trigger. I heard from some people who got great results and other folks who never managed to pull it off the right way. No golden solution unfortunately :-(
Create your own pads with Q4G Brandname :)!
Maybe one day!
hey which drum software are u using
Addictive Drums 2. I always recommend the Custom starter pack with 3 kits. And then select the Black Oyster, Fairfax 1 and Funk. That's a great starting point. You can always buy more kits when there's a sale. Usually in the spring, summer and on black friday.
Hey man, i have a MPX8 laying around and i need a midi controller for my drum VSTs. I cant find a good way to pair the mpx8 up as a midi controller, and looking on the web seems mpx8 is kind a joke product where korg did all wrong. Do you think there is any salvation for it or should i look for something more specific for midi VST drumming?
Hey, I don't know any specifics, but on the AKAI website it does say that the MPX8 has USB MIDI plus standard MIDI inputs and outputs. So there should be two different ways to use it as a midi controller. If you use the midi out, you will need a midi input (sometimes your audio interface has one) and with the usb output it should just be able to send midi over usb, which most devices do. It would be weird if this is not possible since they advertise it on their website.
@@TheQuestforGroove Thank you I will trying again. Should be plug and play, but... Tks Bro.
They should include this in the manual 🙃
haha, I bet the marketing department could spin this as: A pad controller for adventurous DIY people.
@@TheQuestforGroove lol 😂 yeah or “Do you want a pad controller with TRUELY random velocity?”
It’s fixed on the maudio oxygen pro no need for mods
I plugged in my mpd and it’s not on at all, what do I do?
That can have many reasons. Sometimes the usb hub needs more power, in some rare cases a USB driver is not properly installed on your system and ofcourse there's always a small chance the device is actually broken. Best way to check is to plug it directly into another computer (no hubs) and see what happens. That way you can slowly but surely eliminate what could be the problem.
@@TheQuestforGroove ok so I noticed when I lean my cord, the light is on but I can’t hear my pads. Do I need to do the same thing you did in the video?
Best thing I can do for you is my free beginner course (you do need to create an account and log in, but it is free), which has this lesson: questforgroove.com/course/beginnercourse/device-specific-setup-guides/akai-mpd218-226-232/
I feel like Jordan Peterson would approve of this review
I bet Jordan Peterson would enjoy rocking out, playing some drums with this thing. :-)
@@TheQuestforGroove i can see Jordan and his mpc at a ted talk; correlating the importance of sociological indifferences and finger drumming
@@justinpompeii9409
I would listen to that all day. lol
Hello... Good Chanel ... Please , subtitles in Spanish !
you look like Alex Costa in the thumbnail lol
Yeah Alex Costa really copied my style :-)
The akai mpd series is some of the worst drum pads I've seen yet. Double triggering occurs so often it's impossible to play accurately. Maschine mk3 is far far superior. It's too bad nobody is making a midi controller that is just like the maschine. Minus the software.
belum tidur bang?
I sleep a lot actually, but my eyes always have some dark circles. I'm like Steve Buscemi :-)
Akai sucks. They used to be great. Now.... They make cheap garbage. I ordered two different mpd's and they have double trigger issues. Maschine is perfect. If only someone made a maschine controller that was just a maschine controller. No fancy stuff
Right there with you man... I really hope Akai makes an awesome high-end comeback one day!
I agree, no more Akai devices. The double trigger issue is the one I still have after fixing the pad sensitivity (see my other comment). I think it can be fixed, but you need some electronic / programming skills. My plan is to put the ESP32-C3 micro controller (MC) into the MPD218 case. The MC was a gift from the manufacturer (ESP32 series is pretty cheap anyway, ~5$). If the same series of MIDI events is coming twice at a very short time, the MC is able to delete the second series. Just for the nerds: It can be programmed by the Arduino IDE, uses FreeRTOS (low latency) and has TinyUSB library support, which can deal with MIDI events.
I had a conversation with the MC manufacturer, so I have to correct myself at one point. The ESP32-C3 doesn't have the ability to deal with USB-MIDI, but the ESP32-S2 has. So the S2 (solder-friendly dev board, still ~5$) is the one to get. The USB library for the S2 is called "EspTinyUSB", and can be downloaded by the Arduino library manager. @TheQuestForGroove I've seen a couple of MPD218 laying around at your place (friends?). Do you want an info, in case I make it work? You'll need basic soldering skills for the hardware part. PS: I'm from Germany, so my English won't be perfect all the time.
@@TheQuestforGroove Again: Interested to get updates about my MPD218 double trigger fix?