I have learned so much from David Barron. He is humble, a gentleman and his ability to impart excellent information in clean well shot and sensibly edited videos is a gift.
thanks for the video. The angle of the iron is at about 12°, but the bevel on the iron is about 30°, which brings the cutting angel to the board to be about 42°, not much different than a standard plane at 45°, but the skewed blade helps I'm sure.
What an all around great video. From sound, clarity, information, knowledge, demonstration, camera, etc. Very enjoyable and fun to watch. Looking forward to more videos.
I love my Veritas shooting board plane . I presently have the Veritas aluminium guide but I think I will do a shooting board along similar lines to yours with one main difference being The front fence will be around 200mm from the end of the board so that the sole of the plane is not cantilevered into space at the end of the cut but is fully supported. Only a little thing but it seems right to me. Robert Wearings Essential Woodworker and the Resourceful Woodworker are my two favourite books and I keep referring to them year after year. Thanks for the video and all the best.
There’s something rather special about the sound of a well tuned plane working end grain on a shooting board! Perhaps this video reminds us that the best woodworking experience and accuracy comes from fine hand tools used with well designed jigs - not power tools! Great video - would liked a bit more detail on the inclined shooting board for mitres.
They are a very nice plane and a lot easier to get hold of than the classic Stanley #51 (It took me 30 plus years to find one in good condition for a reasonable price). Not as heavy as the #51, but the engineering and design makes up for this.
Looks the business, I'm considering buying a proxxon table saw for a perfect 45 for box making, but there's also this option for fine tuning my angles after I make my cuts with my miter saw, What to do!!
Welcome back! I've been considering getting this plane for a while, I make my own picture frames and this would definitely improve the fit and finish no end. Not cheap though.
Great video David! This is them first time I've watched one of your videos. I subscribed and gave a 👍 up. I'm looking forward to watching more of them. Where I can get a copy of the plans for the first shooting board and the 45 degree version. My audio dropped out for a bit so I didn't catch that info or the information on the book.either. Thanks for your time. Ron
The blade on the Veritas Shooting Plane sharpens like any ordinary plane blade. The blade is not skewed, it is angled or skewed 20° in the plane bed . It comes from the factory with a primary 23° bevel and a 25° secondary bevel for an effective cutting angle of 35° due to the skew of the plane bed. The bed angle of the plane is 12°.
This is the second time someone on RUclips has spoken about this plane; beautiful,....but a bit expensive. always enjoy your videos...cheers...rr Normandy, Fra
Incredible piece of iron. Looks sort of futuristic. I like the two different shooting boards you've made - rather than just go for the Veritas track. I've just ordered one, so this has given me some ideas. Btw - what is that gigantic combination square on your wall David - is that still sold? Thanks
Hi David, Can you give us a little bit of info on the low friction tape. I can't justify the plane but can change my practice of shooting along the bench rather than across. For so long we have followed convention then you come along and... why didn't I think of that or do that sooner. Thanks David. Don't burn yourself out with all the videos in one go. Would rather see them spaced out over a few more weeks than all in one blast and then not hear from you again. We have missed you.
Hi Peter, the low friction tape is self adhesive UHMW, I use is .25 mm thick but that's not important. It's freely available if you google. I'm glad you like the shooting board design, I saw this years ago when I trained at The Barnsley Workshops. All the best, David.
Axminster sell it. Another alternative is to add a strip from a HPME kitchen chopping board, it machines beautifully with a router, though static will mean you're covered in little bits of plastic!
David, your comparison of the "pitch" of the blades (at approx 55 seconds in), is a bit misleading, and it's because you're trying to compare the Veritas bevel-up to your previously-used bevel-down plane. If you check out the Lee Valley webpage here: (www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70926&cat=1,230,41182,48945), you'll see that the effective cutting angle is 35 degrees. But, I'll agree that that's still less than the 45 degrees you're citing for your bevel-down plane you'd previously been using. Aside from that point, your video is excellent.
Have you had an opportunity to use a ramped shooting board? There is a gentleman in Australia named Derek Cohen who makes them and has videos on their construction.
Hi Patrick, I'll have a look at his video. I haven't used one but I can see they would help skewing a straight bladed plane as well as using much more of the blade width. This would be better on a short board for cross grain rather than the longer board I use for edge planning. All the best, David.
Your description of a bedding angle of 45° vs 12°, while true, is somewhat deceiving. The bevel down plane effective cutting angle is 45°. The shooting plane bedding angle of 12° plus the 25° bevel on the blade yields an effective cut angle of 37°. I would hardly characterize an 8° difference as a "much, much less abrasive angle".
Hi, yes I realised my misleading comments after the cameramen had gone home and it was too late to re shoot. Although in practice the bevel up planes do cut end grain more easily and the blade stays sharper a bit longer. All the best, David.
"Bevel up planes do cut end grain more easily." I have heard this, before. But I always figured the choice between bevel up or down boiled down mostly to... where do you want your hand/handle to go... The blade has to stick out the top of the plane somewhere. On the smaller planes where you hand goes over the top of the blade, you need bevel up, else you will have the back of the blade sticking into your palm. On the longer planes where the handle goes behind the blade, the blade has to be bevel down so the blade is more vertical, making room for the handle. Then on the super long planes, you can go bevel up, again (why not? It makes the plane sleeker/flatter), because the handle goes so far back. :) The cant/skew of the blade on this plane should be a significant improvement, for sure. But the fact it is CURVED? It seems like it would be slightly trickier to sharpen it while keeping the cutting action perfectly level. In fact, it looks in the vid like the center of the blade has some bevel on the back, which I assume it would need. Else the blade will be taking concave cut out of the wood. I would like the plane better if the blade was skewed but straight. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you are supposed to keep this curved blade cutting straight. Once you put it in the plane at 12.5 degrees, things get complicated. You can't just sharpen the back at 12.5 degrees, else it won't take a bite. If you bevel the back with a lower angle, it will still have some concavity to the bite. It seems like it would not be straightforward to sharpen this blade. Oh. And thumbs way up on the shooting board. So many great ideas all around.
I use clasic Stanley plane for this purpose sometimes , but after this super video I found it on Axminster ( www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-shooting-board-plane-ax932130 ) :-) and yes, that palne is not so expensive than I expected :-) Once I buy one. Thats for sure . :-)
I have learned so much from David Barron. He is humble, a gentleman and his ability to impart excellent information in clean well shot and sensibly edited videos is a gift.
I could just listen to sound of someone shooting boards on that setup all day long. Love it!
Yes it's very therapeutic.
thanks for the video. The angle of the iron is at about 12°, but the bevel on the iron is about 30°, which brings the cutting angel to the board to be about 42°, not much different than a standard plane at 45°, but the skewed blade helps I'm sure.
The blade angle is 25° so all together the cutting angle is 37°
Thank you for the nice introduction to this amazing plane, do you offer the plans for the 45 degrees shooting board built separate from the book?
What an all around great video. From sound, clarity, information, knowledge, demonstration, camera, etc. Very enjoyable and fun to watch. Looking forward to more videos.
I love my Veritas shooting board plane . I presently have the Veritas aluminium guide but I think I will do a shooting board along similar lines to yours with one main difference being The front fence will be around 200mm from the end of the board so that the sole of the plane is not cantilevered into space at the end of the cut but is fully supported. Only a little thing but it seems right to me. Robert Wearings Essential Woodworker and the Resourceful Woodworker are my two favourite books and I keep referring to them year after year. Thanks for the video and all the best.
There’s something rather special about the sound of a well tuned plane working end grain on a shooting board!
Perhaps this video reminds us that the best woodworking experience and accuracy comes from fine hand tools used with well designed jigs - not power tools!
Great video - would liked a bit more detail on the inclined shooting board for mitres.
They are a very nice plane and a lot easier to get hold of than the classic Stanley #51 (It took me 30 plus years to find one in good condition for a reasonable price). Not as heavy as the #51, but the engineering and design makes up for this.
Looks the business, I'm considering buying a proxxon table saw for a perfect 45 for box making, but there's also this option for fine tuning my angles after I make my cuts with my miter saw,
What to do!!
Simple and very nice! How do you adjust the "end" ebony "stop" fence when it eventually gets out of 90 degrees? Elongated screw holes?
How would it go out of 90bdegrees?the plane doesn't actually touch it.
Hi... great video! Do you use the low friction tape on the face of the outside fence or on the bass of the shooting board?
Nice video David,can i answer you what are the material of the shooting board? Thnkx in advance
Thank you! your videos are clear and informative. Just great. Thank you again!
can I use my veritas low angle jack plane on this gadget?
You referenced a book but I couldn’t quite hear you. What is the title of the book and who is the author? I think I might like to read it.
Very nice informative video, good to see your back after a long gap.
Thanks Paul
Welcome back! I've been considering getting this plane for a while, I make my own picture frames and this would definitely improve the fit and finish no end. Not cheap though.
Hi Damian, Thank you! It would be great for picture frames and yes it isn't cheap. All the best, David.
Great video David! This is them first time I've watched one of your videos. I subscribed and gave a 👍 up. I'm looking forward to watching more of them. Where I can get a copy of the plans for the first shooting board and the 45 degree version. My audio dropped out for a bit so I didn't catch that info or the information on the book.either. Thanks for your time.
Ron
Hello , is the blade difficult to sharpen ?
The blade on the Veritas Shooting Plane sharpens like any ordinary plane blade. The blade is not skewed, it is angled or skewed 20° in the plane bed . It comes from the factory with a primary 23° bevel and a 25° secondary bevel for an effective cutting angle of 35° due to the skew of the plane bed. The bed angle of the plane is 12°.
Thanks for the info David. Was trying to decide to get one or not, looks like you've sold one.
This is the second time someone on RUclips has spoken about this plane; beautiful,....but a bit expensive. always enjoy your videos...cheers...rr Normandy, Fra
Incredible piece of iron. Looks sort of futuristic. I like the two different shooting boards you've made - rather than just go for the Veritas track. I've just ordered one, so this has given me some ideas. Btw - what is that gigantic combination square on your wall David - is that still sold? Thanks
hi David
I love your video on shooting plain's and boards. I currently use the lie_neilsen low angle jack with my board but I was cons
Hi David, Can you give us a little bit of info on the low friction tape. I can't justify the plane but can change my practice of shooting along the bench rather than across. For so long we have followed convention then you come along and... why didn't I think of that or do that sooner. Thanks David.
Don't burn yourself out with all the videos in one go. Would rather see them spaced out over a few more weeks than all in one blast and then not hear from you again. We have missed you.
Hi Peter, the low friction tape is self adhesive UHMW, I use is .25 mm thick but that's not important. It's freely available if you google. I'm glad you like the shooting board design, I saw this years ago when I trained at The Barnsley Workshops. All the best, David.
Axminster sell it. Another alternative is to add a strip from a HPME kitchen chopping board, it machines beautifully with a router, though static will mean you're covered in little bits of plastic!
Dang it! I think I’m sold.🙃
thank you for the explanation of the jgs, and plane . I/ve made a ramped shooting board I used polyurethane varnish to make the plane glide smoother
Back with a vengeance, great videos David thanks for them all
Hi Ken, No problem, 6 more out in the next day or two. All the best, David
Cool but very expensive!
Shame on our ancestors for not inventing this previously!!! Good on Veritas for vastly improving on an ancient idea.
Stanley did it
David, your comparison of the "pitch" of the blades (at approx 55 seconds in), is a bit misleading, and it's because you're trying to compare the Veritas bevel-up to your previously-used bevel-down plane. If you check out the Lee Valley webpage here: (www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70926&cat=1,230,41182,48945), you'll see that the effective cutting angle is 35 degrees. But, I'll agree that that's still less than the 45 degrees you're citing for your bevel-down plane you'd previously been using.
Aside from that point, your video is excellent.
I very much enjoy your Vids Your the Best
thank you!
Cool idea. Thanks for the video
No problem!
what was the name of the author and name of the book?
Hi Stefan, it was by Robert Wearing and is called Making Woodwork Aids and Devices, a great little book. All the best, David.
Have you had an opportunity to use a ramped shooting board? There is a gentleman in Australia named Derek Cohen who makes them and has videos on their construction.
Hi Patrick, I'll have a look at his video. I haven't used one but I can see they would help skewing a straight bladed plane as well as using much more of the blade width. This would be better on a short board for cross grain rather than the longer board I use for edge planning. All the best, David.
Your description of a bedding angle of 45° vs 12°, while true, is somewhat deceiving. The bevel down plane effective cutting angle is 45°. The shooting plane bedding angle of 12° plus the 25° bevel on the blade yields an effective cut angle of 37°. I would hardly characterize an 8° difference as a "much, much less abrasive angle".
Hi, yes I realised my misleading comments after the cameramen had gone home and it was too late to re shoot. Although in practice the bevel up planes do cut end grain more easily and the blade stays sharper a bit longer. All the best, David.
"Bevel up planes do cut end grain more easily." I have heard this, before. But I always figured the choice between bevel up or down boiled down mostly to... where do you want your hand/handle to go... The blade has to stick out the top of the plane somewhere. On the smaller planes where you hand goes over the top of the blade, you need bevel up, else you will have the back of the blade sticking into your palm. On the longer planes where the handle goes behind the blade, the blade has to be bevel down so the blade is more vertical, making room for the handle. Then on the super long planes, you can go bevel up, again (why not? It makes the plane sleeker/flatter), because the handle goes so far back. :) The cant/skew of the blade on this plane should be a significant improvement, for sure. But the fact it is CURVED? It seems like it would be slightly trickier to sharpen it while keeping the cutting action perfectly level. In fact, it looks in the vid like the center of the blade has some bevel on the back, which I assume it would need. Else the blade will be taking concave cut out of the wood. I would like the plane better if the blade was skewed but straight. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you are supposed to keep this curved blade cutting straight. Once you put it in the plane at 12.5 degrees, things get complicated. You can't just sharpen the back at 12.5 degrees, else it won't take a bite. If you bevel the back with a lower angle, it will still have some concavity to the bite. It seems like it would not be straightforward to sharpen this blade. Oh. And thumbs way up on the shooting board. So many great ideas all around.
I use clasic Stanley plane for this purpose sometimes , but after this super video I found it on Axminster ( www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-shooting-board-plane-ax932130 ) :-) and yes, that palne is not so expensive than I expected :-) Once I buy one. Thats for sure . :-)
If you get one you'll really enjoy using it. All the best, David.
Its $100 LESS in Canada