We need to bring back 2WD nitro stadium trucks before that can happen, at a price point that's actually competitive on the market, and marketed to people who actually want to get their hands dirty.
I love 1/8 nitro buggies and this video proves why. Also that pipe just sounded amazing. Great video 👍. Let bring nitro back! It’s happening 🤘 you can see it’s popularity picking up everywhere
just got the mp9 tki4 v2 ready set and so far i have put the 17.5 caster blocks like recommended and i put a metal servo arm for steering and protek air filter element and man its been fun on the track
Hey Stevo D nitro the bomb it can be a bit challenging at times once you smell that heavenly sweet nitro man it's like a drug sweeter than the sweetest perfume ever believe me.!!!!!!! Brarrp Brarrap peace
LOL @ Tanner's comment. Love the description. Stevo, it was cool seeing so many people chatting about RC in one place. Really cool you guys do that. -Brett
Yeah that's why I'm getting back into hobby with is a nitro I raced 15yrs ago nitro and electric just trying to find a decent RTR version I can grown and build with also like the losi 8
@@alfiecartwright9655 Breaking it isn't really the problem. It's a cheap and quick fix. The problem is that pullstarts are extremely unforgiving. You pretty much have to do everything perfectly to get the engine to start, otherwise you just end up with blisters and headaches.
@@AMain_Hobbies Personally I wouldnt tighten diagonally first. Something like top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Always make sure to do a diagonal first so that both far sides make contact before tightened.
That stock engine is subpare. Trust me. Ive owned kyosho for a really long time. You definitely need an engine with a backate and well honestly many other things for track readyness!!
@@AMain_Hobbies Some purchases from you guys some Ebay. Protek 5 cell rec pack. Complete stainless screws, no more phillips anything. Bored out piston holes. TKI3 E Shock towers front and rear, factory bend too easy. Lt Blue springs front and rear. Different clutch and springs. Many sets of Proline wheel/tire combos. Basically a Tebo rough track set up/ Diffs and shock oils. Serpent/Nova 3 port P/S lol. Lots I'm forgetting, but basically a fun buggy but can raced if needed. Was going to do ALOT more, electronics, Engine/pipe combo, lipo etc, but many local tracks went away. I still have it and love it. Your customer service has helped many times and wouldn't buy anywhere else. We have an E indoor carpet track, but thats just not my style. Been Nitro for decades. Rumors of a local dirt track coming back. If so, big money being spent. Fingers crossed!
TKI3 Readyset problems. Shock towers bend easily. .21 connecting rod. Servos are decent. Tires come with weird foam inserts. Screws, mix of phillips and hex. I got the digital radio with mine and works fine. Open diffs.
@@gaberealrc7355 Honestly, having a mix is the best way to go with these. I love my 8ight 2.0 and JATO (and my Baja 5T if you want to include gas power), but sometimes I'm just not in the mood to do anything more than flip a switch and go.
@@VestedUTuber lol yea I hear that, flip a switch and go!! As a mechanic though I've always been curious.. 4 stroke conversions and all that.. Takes a ton of tweaking and tuning i find
@@gaberealrc7355 4-stroke conversions are a bit weird. Surface 4-stroke engines tend to be extremely specialty products, fully water cooled with on-board starting and everything. They're a huge investment and they're not really suitable for most cars. Most of the vehicles that run them are converted crawlers.
I would personally replace the fuel line. Or at least check it, especially around the nipples on the tank and carburetor. I've seen rtr kits where it cracks in those areas. It happened to my brother when he got his first buggy. It sucked in some sand and wrecked his engine on his first tank on the track after i broke it in for him. It is definitely worth the couple bucks for new lines and peace of mind.
Good tip Michael! That's exactly what we did in Part 3, along with a few other things. You should check out our racing in Part 4 as well. Good stuff. -Brett
I used a flat blade screwdriver to turn over the flywheel. The piston got stuck leaving the cord hanging. Using a heat gun to warm the engine head and case really helps out when breaking in the engine. On this day, it was pretty warm out, so we did not, but we probably should have. -Brett
Hi! Do you know if there are any lower engine mounts, lets say if I want to use a starter box? Or should I replace the flywheel for a bigger one? Mine is a MP9 Tki4 with a SP25 engine. Feels like the engine is sitting to high up for the starter wheel to grab enough. Bought it used, and the former user cut out i the bottom plate. I have a spare chassis, and I dont really dont want to cut away on the chassi plate, seems unnecesary.
A box stock MP9 should reach the starter wheel. If the engine mounts or chassis have been modified, I recommend you remedy them to their original state. You shouldn't need a bigger flywheel or starter wheel. You mention, "the former user cut out the bottom plate," but i'm not sure what you mean by this; cut out the plate on the starter box, or the car chassis? -Brett
Hey! Thanks for the swift answer! Thats what got me wondering why he did that. The former owner had cut out a bigger hole on the chassis, so it's both longer and wider underneath the flywheel. The only thing that isn't stock to my knowledge is the engine. (KE25 instead of KE21) But I'll probably disassemble the car anyways and rebuild. According to the manual the stock flywheel is 34 mm. Haven't checked that yet on mine. From what I've seen there also is a 32 mm flywheel for the mp9.
@@barsken4870Sometimes rocks and debris can get caught between the clutchbell and the flywheel hole in the chassis, maybe he opened the hole to prevent this. Another possible issue he was having: during heavy chassis flexing, in some 8th buggies its possible to have the end of the clutchbell hit the chassis. The chassis will expose a rub mark in this case and dremeling a small recess in that spot will remedy. Possibly he was experiencing some of these issues. There shouldn't be a need to dremel or cut the chassis behind this. With the flywheel, changing it won't help and make the reach even further. You should try to align the car on the starter box, it should fit. It's easiest to remove the engine and square it up on the top plate of the starter box. Good luck barsken -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks a lot! I'll make sure to align the chassis properly next time I disassemble the car. I got a whole box of option parts in the sale, and I'm itching to get those fitted as well.
On my gen1 Inferno Neo, I had to upgrade the differential gears to the hardcoated steel version from the kanai (the metal gears in the rtr version were too soft and chewed up after a few races). Do you know if the MP9 rtr's have the same reinforced diff gears as the kit version?
It ReadySet has the IF402 gears, same as the TKI race kits: www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-differential-bevel-gear-set-kyoif402/p29644 Are these what you bought? -Brett
Yeah, we'll see about that. But I don't think you need too much with the MP9e. Maybe a better steering servo, a good setup, proper gearing, and great tires. -Brett
Not at all. The real weapon is you, the driver. The NEO 2.0 is an older platform but not too old to fling dirt at the track. As you saw, all we did in the first video was add air filters and a new receiver battery. We could be hitting the track just like this. Keep watching for part 2. -Brett
I think Tekno had some conversions but I don't see any on the website anymore. For engines, there are A LOT of options; just depends on what you're looking for. These Samurai's are good race engines but a little pricey to only bash: www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=2156&s=samurai These SH engines are great value for the dollar if you're on a budget: www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=1923&s=sh -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Roger, yeah can't find it in manual (going to re read it a third time) - I'm looking to get an Mp9 and want to make sure I get the right fuel. Ty for answer!
I come from Germany. Very nice videos. I have the second version of the rtr. What differential oil is in the rear differential? In the manual it says 5000 in all 3 differentials. Is this an error in the instructions?
Error, no I doubt it. That's probably correct. I'm not sure what the car comes with, but 5K is probably right. Our diffs felt like grease inside only and we left them as is. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you for the information. I just wonder. because with the normal mp9 tki4 there is 3000 at the back and 5000 at the front and in the middle.
Been out of the hobby since the early 90s I just bought a mp9e from you guys do I pretty much Loctite the same thing that you did and this? Also what do you recommend to clean the screws the same Nitro cleaner or something else
Awh, congratulations mzondi! That's a great buggy platform! Yeah, Loctite any metal on metal points, but just a little. Electric cars do not vibrate as much as nitro, but a little loctite insurance never hurt anyone. You can follow the points we outlined, but you will have some differences with the electric version. To clean the screws, nitro cleaner works well or brake cleaner. Have fun man, and welcome back to the hobby! -Brett
You have a choice between the Kyosho plug: www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-g-glow-plug-kyo74905/p266455 Or the ProTek plug, but you need to use both included washers under the PTK plug because it is longer. Hope that helps. -Brett
Hey Brad, did you ever do a nitro engine break in video? I just bought a kyosho inferno neo st 3.0 and I wanted to see the way you break in the engine. I've seen a lot of RUclips videos on break in but no one seems to explain the process! It seem everyone jumps steps. Can you help me with this? Do you have somebody that can show me a video on the proper way to break in a nitrous engine? Thank you
This is a good reference from Adam Drake who is an AMain Hobbies Team Driver. He has many good videos on his own channel as well. ruclips.net/video/2_qddxn1k6A/видео.html -Brett
That's one break in method but there are many ways people do it. Some people let the vehicle sit on a car stand and idle the engine, where as other people think lightly driving the vehicle on flat ground is better. I do not know which method is best, but both exist. For this video, we lightly drove the vehicle to break in the engine, mainly because it is faster. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thank you so much,I just want to be able to do it correctly and you have never steered me wrong brett.that nitro is calling to me as you said in one of the videos Brrraaap lol.take care and thank you for responding
We added loctite to all screws and set screws going into a metal piece. Things like the steering posts, steering knuckles, set screws in the sway bar ball ends, engine mounts, brake/throttle linkage collet set screws and set screws in the center driveline. There my be a few other areas; we outlined them in the video. -Brett
It was VP fuel, I believe this 25% race fuel: www.amainhobbies.com/powermaster-nitro-race-25-car-fuel-9-castor-synthetic-blend-one-quart-pow6137/p233418 -Brett
They're usually referred to as 1/8 buggy tires rather than a size. But for a rough size example, I checked out some tires and they were 4.37" (111mm) high, and 1.68" (43mm) wide. Hope that helps. -Brett
Cool. Well I ordered one but they are out of stock . It shows them in stock in the store. Brett you should go pull it off the shelf and mail it to me! Lol
Hey Rey, we used the switch for only a little while until we swapped it for an electronic switch with a LiPo Low Voltage Cutoff (Video 3 we swapped them). Here's the Sanwa Switch: www.amainhobbies.com/sanwa-airtronics-standard-z-connector-receiver-switch-harness-snw107a20064a/p531749 Here's the Electronic Switch: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-electronic-switch-w-voltage-cutoff-ptk-4060/p360119 -Brett
Been there, done that...and won’t ever buy an RTR again. Spent soooo much money trying to bring it up to race spec that I could have just bought the kit in the beginning for less money. Kyosho kit part quality >> Kyosho RTR quality. Word to the wise...buy the kit in the first place.
Bought the kit, to realize I needed the engine. Bought the engine to realize I needed the electronics. Bought electronics to realize I needed a hump pack and on/off switch. Bought that to realize I needed the wheels ?!?!?!
Here buy an expensive toy and throw us more of your cash to make it a ‘racer’. There was a certain satisfaction a dozen years ago of taking a Losi 2.0 RTR and making the A final against all those race machines. That car was a giant killer not but for the price but period. Marketing departments in this hobby are clamoring for your dollar by feeding you the BS that you have to have this and that to be on a race track. Mistake free driving and good bench work will take many a scalp in nitro. I can still hear one drivers reaction with his race machine and his high zoot motor stuck in the c qual asking me what tires I was using as if that was his problem. My answer the ones that came with the car (step pins). One reason this hobby is not what it used to be. U10
Make NITRO mainstream again! Not too many options when it comes to nitro.
There’s the main companies that build them but yeah. Not many people run them anymore.
Depends on where you're at I think. Ebuggy is big but there's still allot of nitro buggies in my area
We need to bring back 2WD nitro stadium trucks before that can happen, at a price point that's actually competitive on the market, and marketed to people who actually want to get their hands dirty.
Traxxas has good ones like the Tmaxx and Revo and Jato
I love 1/8 nitro buggies and this video proves why. Also that pipe just sounded amazing. Great video 👍. Let bring nitro back! It’s happening 🤘 you can see it’s popularity picking up everywhere
Yes they are frustrating sometimes but the are definetly worth it! l am really anticipating part #2.
buggys are one of the cars ive had the most fun experience with, itl be fun to watch what you do with this one
I'm looking at this RTR for my first racer back into the hobby after a 15yr break
just got the mp9 tki4 v2 ready set and so far i have put the 17.5 caster blocks like recommended and i put a metal servo arm for steering and protek air filter element and man its been fun on the track
Awesome! That's a great car you've got, I bet it rips!
-Brett
Perfect. Love this series already. I have the MP9 TKI4. Can’t wait to see if I can apply any of the upgrades here.
Honestly nothing better then listening to nitro revving it's ring out
Inferno was what I started with when I raced !
Ive no clue about Nitro but maybe one day, good info Brett n thanks for sharing n stopping bye my Friday night hangouts
Hey Stevo D nitro the bomb it can be a bit challenging at times once you smell that heavenly sweet nitro man it's like a drug sweeter than the sweetest perfume ever believe me.!!!!!!! Brarrp Brarrap peace
LOL @ Tanner's comment. Love the description. Stevo, it was cool seeing so many people chatting about RC in one place. Really cool you guys do that.
-Brett
Nitro for life!
Nitro is back
That buggy looks pretty sweet. 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
Looking forward to the series
Love this type of content! good work
Love the buggys, but for me nothing better than a Nitro Monster basher...... I love the smell of Nitro.... don't get that with electric.
Yeah that's why I'm getting back into hobby with is a nitro I raced 15yrs ago nitro and electric just trying to find a decent RTR version I can grown and build with also like the losi 8
The only smell you rest from electric is the lipos burning your house down
Well, your nitro basher is also partially assisted by electric too (receiver & glow starter). :)
I'm definitely getting one of these bad boys. But in Kit form. Of course I'll have to buy certain things separately. But I love building my Ride's.
I'll admit that I jumped ahead to where you were trying to start the engine the first time and then watched the rest. Now don't get a big head😁👌
Pull starters are the Dark Souls of nitro 🤣🤣🤣
This video comferms it!😂
lmao if he put the dark souls death screen over lay when it broke..
Pull starters and Traxxas engines are the two reasons why people think Nitro is too difficult to run.
I'm pretty heavy handed and I've never broke a pullstart
@@alfiecartwright9655
Breaking it isn't really the problem. It's a cheap and quick fix.
The problem is that pullstarts are extremely unforgiving. You pretty much have to do everything perfectly to get the engine to start, otherwise you just end up with blisters and headaches.
Finally, nitro buggy video, love this
Nitro heck yeah! put a back plate on that Baby! nice job Amain
What's the part number on that back plate?
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I wouldn't know, are you saying there isn't one? But deffs a big upgrade for an RTR would be a backplate for the engine.
That looks prety sick,Nice job👍
Mate,call a doctor coz that buggy is sick! It looks like mad fun,it'll be awesome to see what mods you do to tweek it.
Can I race this buggy as a beginner in racing with the RTR version??
It obviously needs a starter box if it’s going to a racetrack! Using a pull start at a race would be miserable.
"It's important to tighten in cross pattern."
Me: but....you didn't
How so? After rewatching that portion of the video, it's pretty clear the bolts were tightened in a patterned sequence.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies
Personally I wouldnt tighten diagonally first. Something like top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right. Always make sure to do a diagonal first so that both far sides make contact before tightened.
Got one of these about a month ago love it ...
Taking you back to your roots! Makes me wanna fire up my old Kyosho too! If only someone had a close backyard track to lap on! :(
Great video Brett wished i could a ford one keep up the great work brother!!!!
That stock engine is subpare. Trust me. Ive owned kyosho for a really long time. You definitely need an engine with a backate and well honestly many other things for track readyness!!
This is only part 1 in our journey to race readyness. We have some upgrades planned. What would you change?
-Brett
AMain Hobbies Differentials, shock towers, drivetrain, complete set of allen screws, kit brakes at minimum.
Nice Bash session!!!
Awesome speaker and well done.
POPCORN! I bought one from AMain years ago and added so much to it now.
What did you add? Looking for ideas.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Some purchases from you guys some Ebay. Protek 5 cell rec pack. Complete stainless screws, no more phillips anything. Bored out piston holes. TKI3 E Shock towers front and rear, factory bend too easy. Lt Blue springs front and rear. Different clutch and springs. Many sets of Proline wheel/tire combos. Basically a Tebo rough track set up/ Diffs and shock oils. Serpent/Nova 3 port P/S lol. Lots I'm forgetting, but basically a fun buggy but can raced if needed. Was going to do ALOT more, electronics, Engine/pipe combo, lipo etc, but many local tracks went away. I still have it and love it. Your customer service has helped many times and wouldn't buy anywhere else. We have an E indoor carpet track, but thats just not my style. Been Nitro for decades. Rumors of a local dirt track coming back. If so, big money being spent. Fingers crossed!
@@RL-RL New dirt track? That would be awesome. Thanks for the tips. Shock pistons and clutch are great ideas.
-Brett
TKI3 Readyset problems. Shock towers bend easily. .21 connecting rod. Servos are decent. Tires come with weird foam inserts. Screws, mix of phillips and hex. I got the digital radio with mine and works fine. Open diffs.
@@AMain_Hobbies Also did full Protek bearings for reliability. Plenty of spares parts too. Barely anything stock left on it.
Funniest video AMain have ever done! Bravo!
" are nitro cars really worth it?" ... Fires up and hear the engine running. yes yes it is.
Electrics are for boys who can't handle the nitro engine sound...
Electric is much faster but nitro is super fun!
The whine of the engine was the reason I switched as soon as brushless was viable. Never looked back.
The smell 🤤
Good aftermarket service!
I have 0 experience with nitro. May grab this as a 1 and only. Looks cool
You say you're only going to get one. But it's like live steam with the garden railroad crowd - you never end up with just one.
@@VestedUTuber haha. I'm an electric guy so Hopefully I can stick to 1 haha.. Cheers!
@@gaberealrc7355
Honestly, having a mix is the best way to go with these. I love my 8ight 2.0 and JATO (and my Baja 5T if you want to include gas power), but sometimes I'm just not in the mood to do anything more than flip a switch and go.
@@VestedUTuber lol yea I hear that, flip a switch and go!! As a mechanic though I've always been curious.. 4 stroke conversions and all that.. Takes a ton of tweaking and tuning i find
@@gaberealrc7355
4-stroke conversions are a bit weird. Surface 4-stroke engines tend to be extremely specialty products, fully water cooled with on-board starting and everything. They're a huge investment and they're not really suitable for most cars. Most of the vehicles that run them are converted crawlers.
Nice video.
I would personally replace the fuel line. Or at least check it, especially around the nipples on the tank and carburetor. I've seen rtr kits where it cracks in those areas. It happened to my brother when he got his first buggy. It sucked in some sand and wrecked his engine on his first tank on the track after i broke it in for him. It is definitely worth the couple bucks for new lines and peace of mind.
Good tip Michael! That's exactly what we did in Part 3, along with a few other things. You should check out our racing in Part 4 as well. Good stuff.
-Brett
how'd you get the pull start to wind back in? did it not damage the spring?
I used a flat blade screwdriver to turn over the flywheel. The piston got stuck leaving the cord hanging. Using a heat gun to warm the engine head and case really helps out when breaking in the engine. On this day, it was pretty warm out, so we did not, but we probably should have.
-Brett
Hi! Do you know if there are any lower engine mounts, lets say if I want to use a starter box? Or should I replace the flywheel for a bigger one? Mine is a MP9 Tki4 with a SP25 engine. Feels like the engine is sitting to high up for the starter wheel to grab enough. Bought it used, and the former user cut out i the bottom plate. I have a spare chassis, and I dont really dont want to cut away on the chassi plate, seems unnecesary.
A box stock MP9 should reach the starter wheel. If the engine mounts or chassis have been modified, I recommend you remedy them to their original state. You shouldn't need a bigger flywheel or starter wheel.
You mention, "the former user cut out the bottom plate," but i'm not sure what you mean by this; cut out the plate on the starter box, or the car chassis?
-Brett
Hey! Thanks for the swift answer!
Thats what got me wondering why he did that. The former owner had cut out a bigger hole on the chassis, so it's both longer and wider underneath the flywheel.
The only thing that isn't stock to my knowledge is the engine. (KE25 instead of KE21) But I'll probably disassemble the car anyways and rebuild.
According to the manual the stock flywheel is 34 mm. Haven't checked that yet on mine. From what I've seen there also is a 32 mm flywheel for the mp9.
@@barsken4870Sometimes rocks and debris can get caught between the clutchbell and the flywheel hole in the chassis, maybe he opened the hole to prevent this. Another possible issue he was having: during heavy chassis flexing, in some 8th buggies its possible to have the end of the clutchbell hit the chassis. The chassis will expose a rub mark in this case and dremeling a small recess in that spot will remedy. Possibly he was experiencing some of these issues. There shouldn't be a need to dremel or cut the chassis behind this. With the flywheel, changing it won't help and make the reach even further.
You should try to align the car on the starter box, it should fit. It's easiest to remove the engine and square it up on the top plate of the starter box. Good luck barsken
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks a lot!
I'll make sure to align the chassis properly next time I disassemble the car. I got a whole box of option parts in the sale, and I'm itching to get those fitted as well.
Did you guys run a voltage regulator in order to run the lipo? Thanks!
On my gen1 Inferno Neo, I had to upgrade the differential gears to the hardcoated steel version from the kanai (the metal gears in the rtr version were too soft and chewed up after a few races). Do you know if the MP9 rtr's have the same reinforced diff gears as the kit version?
It ReadySet has the IF402 gears, same as the TKI race kits: www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-differential-bevel-gear-set-kyoif402/p29644
Are these what you bought?
-Brett
Hey Brett Are most Kyosho models are they made in Japan? Like say this MP9
Yes they are.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies nice 😎
Great video, I have the inferno mp9e readyset, RTR. Can you please show upgrades to get the inferno mp9e track ready. That would be awesome, THANKS.
Yeah, we'll see about that. But I don't think you need too much with the MP9e. Maybe a better steering servo, a good setup, proper gearing, and great tires.
-Brett
So if I buy the mp9e RTR and doa few upgrades I can race as a beginner??
it was realy good I have two nitro 1/ 10 scale buggy
So I have an Infeno NEO 2.0.. is it too far into RTR land to be considered a track weapon with these steps?
Not at all. The real weapon is you, the driver. The NEO 2.0 is an older platform but not too old to fling dirt at the track. As you saw, all we did in the first video was add air filters and a new receiver battery. We could be hitting the track just like this. Keep watching for part 2.
-Brett
My tki3s engine gave up on me do you guys still have the electric conversion? Or what are your recommendations on nitro engines for the mp9
I think Tekno had some conversions but I don't see any on the website anymore. For engines, there are A LOT of options; just depends on what you're looking for. These Samurai's are good race engines but a little pricey to only bash: www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=2156&s=samurai
These SH engines are great value for the dollar if you're on a budget: www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=1923&s=sh
-Brett
What % Nitro this Operate off of preferably? I know the 8ight is 25%. JW what this is in comparison. :) ty.
I think we used 20% or 25%. I don't remember what % Kyosho recommends for the engine, but it wasn't a lot, maybe 20%.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Roger, yeah can't find it in manual (going to re read it a third time) - I'm looking to get an Mp9 and want to make sure I get the right fuel. Ty for answer!
I come from Germany. Very nice videos. I have the second version of the rtr. What differential oil is in the rear differential? In the manual it says 5000 in all 3 differentials. Is this an error in the instructions?
Error, no I doubt it. That's probably correct. I'm not sure what the car comes with, but 5K is probably right. Our diffs felt like grease inside only and we left them as is.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you for the information. I just wonder. because with the normal mp9 tki4 there is 3000 at the back and 5000 at the front and in the middle.
Been out of the hobby since the early 90s I just bought a mp9e from you guys do I pretty much Loctite the same thing that you did and this? Also what do you recommend to clean the screws the same Nitro cleaner or something else
Awh, congratulations mzondi! That's a great buggy platform! Yeah, Loctite any metal on metal points, but just a little. Electric cars do not vibrate as much as nitro, but a little loctite insurance never hurt anyone. You can follow the points we outlined, but you will have some differences with the electric version. To clean the screws, nitro cleaner works well or brake cleaner. Have fun man, and welcome back to the hobby!
-Brett
What Sanwa switch are you using for the lipo?
It's this switch: www.amainhobbies.com/sanwa-airtronics-standard-z-connector-receiver-switch-harness-snw107a20064a/p-qqactauqbcqxactz
-Brett
Hello, which glow plugs do you use?
You have a choice between the Kyosho plug: www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-g-glow-plug-kyo74905/p266455
Or the ProTek plug, but you need to use both included washers under the PTK plug because it is longer. Hope that helps.
-Brett
It has Phillips screws in the bottom? Lol
Heck yeah. You haven't lived until you've wrench with phillips screws.
-Brett
The RTR has Phillips head screws throughout, not just on the bottom.
Hey Brad, did you ever do a nitro engine break in video? I just bought a kyosho inferno neo st 3.0 and I wanted to see the way you break in the engine. I've seen a lot of RUclips videos on break in but no one seems to explain the process! It seem everyone jumps steps. Can you help me with this? Do you have somebody that can show me a video on the proper way to break in a nitrous engine? Thank you
This is a good reference from Adam Drake who is an AMain Hobbies Team Driver. He has many good videos on his own channel as well. ruclips.net/video/2_qddxn1k6A/видео.html
-Brett
Do you just idle through 5 or 6 tanks before you drive it?
That's one break in method but there are many ways people do it. Some people let the vehicle sit on a car stand and idle the engine, where as other people think lightly driving the vehicle on flat ground is better. I do not know which method is best, but both exist. For this video, we lightly drove the vehicle to break in the engine, mainly because it is faster.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thank you so much,I just want to be able to do it correctly and you have never steered me wrong brett.that nitro is calling to me as you said in one of the videos Brrraaap lol.take care and thank you for responding
Hey Brett what screws and bolts did you loctite?
We added loctite to all screws and set screws going into a metal piece. Things like the steering posts, steering knuckles, set screws in the sway bar ball ends, engine mounts, brake/throttle linkage collet set screws and set screws in the center driveline. There my be a few other areas; we outlined them in the video.
-Brett
3 years late, but what fuel and % was used?
It was VP fuel, I believe this 25% race fuel: www.amainhobbies.com/powermaster-nitro-race-25-car-fuel-9-castor-synthetic-blend-one-quart-pow6137/p233418
-Brett
What is the tire and wheel size??
They're usually referred to as 1/8 buggy tires rather than a size. But for a rough size example, I checked out some tires and they were 4.37" (111mm) high, and 1.68" (43mm) wide. Hope that helps.
-Brett
Will a regular 6.0v receiver hump pack fit ?
Sure, the battery just needs to be square in shape.
-Brett
Cool. Well I ordered one but they are out of stock . It shows them in stock in the store. Brett you should go pull it off the shelf and mail it to me! Lol
@@Rcfreak57 Ha. If I could I would man! Hope it arrives soon Eric.
-Brett
I wanted to send this video to kyosho . But if it was an v one r4!
Hey dude, I need the number for the sanwa switch
Hey Rey, we used the switch for only a little while until we swapped it for an electronic switch with a LiPo Low Voltage Cutoff (Video 3 we swapped them).
Here's the Sanwa Switch: www.amainhobbies.com/sanwa-airtronics-standard-z-connector-receiver-switch-harness-snw107a20064a/p531749
Here's the Electronic Switch: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-electronic-switch-w-voltage-cutoff-ptk-4060/p360119
-Brett
This is hard decision on a setup that's rtr I don't wanna start with kit yet
This or losi 8 nitro rtr ?
Both are good cars. I'd get whichever has more parts available in your area.
-Brett
where can i find part 2
It's not finished yet my friend. We are still working on it. Please subscribe to our channel so you see it when it comes out next week. Thanks.
-Brett
can you do a video on fwo6
Been there, done that...and won’t ever buy an RTR again. Spent soooo much money trying to bring it up to race spec that I could have just bought the kit in the beginning for less money. Kyosho kit part quality >> Kyosho RTR quality. Word to the wise...buy the kit in the first place.
Someday
Will there be another give away. But I love this car.
Down the road, but nothing is planned at this time.
-Brett
You guys should review a tekno mt 410
It is the best mt on the market
We need nitro content im tired of falling asleep watching ewords! 😂💥💨🔊😎👍
I'd love to Cody, if we can get our hands on one in the future.
-Brett
I honestly hate those Kyosho pull starters....... :/
Bought the kit, to realize I needed the engine. Bought the engine to realize I needed the electronics. Bought electronics to realize I needed a hump pack and on/off switch. Bought that to realize I needed the wheels ?!?!?!
Poetic. And true for all of life. Now that you have the realization, you can be a great help for those who have yet to realize.
-Brett
I've just finished upgrading mine (RTR MP9 TKI4). If I had your a-main e-mail address I could surely help you at least somewhat
Robert
An mp9 rs owner here, those servos aren't rated for 7.4v.
Hmm. But they work so much better at 7.4V. Thanks for the tip. We'll do something about that in part 2.
-Brett
can you go over tuning a nitro? i’d like too see a video thats not 6 years old haha
Noted. Tuning doesn't really change in 6 years though. But we'll see if that is something we can do.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies well i understand nothings changed. except for video and audio quality haha.
❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊. ไฟแอดพ์ ท?
First thing that’s got to go is those crappy servos. They have plastic gears,just absolute junk...
Would you change servos first, or add a starter box?
-Brett
AMain Hobbies Servos....
glow engines are so 1980's.
Here buy an expensive toy and throw us more of your cash to make it a ‘racer’. There was a certain satisfaction a dozen years ago of taking a Losi 2.0 RTR and making the A final against all those race machines. That car was a giant killer not but for the price but period. Marketing departments in this hobby are clamoring for your dollar by feeding you the BS that you have to have this and that to be on a race track. Mistake free driving and good bench work will take many a scalp in nitro. I can still hear one drivers reaction with his race machine and his high zoot motor stuck in the c qual asking me what tires I was using as if that was his problem. My answer the ones that came with the car (step pins).
One reason this hobby is not what it used to be.
U10
bro, maybe you better do a refresher on how to start a pull start engine lol