Great video, at 2:40 is nailing the underlayment that is self -adhered. What is the reason for that process? Is it to hold the sticky product in place until the back is peeled off? DIYer with a low-slope (2.5/12) metal roof in FL
It's basically just to hold it there. Sometimes it's not hot enough for it to fully adhere to the roof decking right away, if it's a bit cooler then you should put fasteners just to hold it there while it heats up and starts to stick.
Great video! In the future if the peel-and-stick underlayment needs to be removed for whatever reason, how feasible is that process? Will there be any damage to the plywood on the roof in the removal process? Thx.
It would be easier to replace your rood sheathing than remove the peel and stick underlayment. Typically you would re-apply over the existing underlayment rather than remove the old material.
I just had a flat tile roof installed. They used synthetic felt first and waited for inspection. Strong storm came and we had some leaks through that. Them they installed ice and water shield on top of the synthetic felt before they installed the tiles. Is that ok?
In Florida, would you recommend using wood purlins under the metal to get more air flow on an unvented attic? Also, would you recommend using a radiant barrier foil on top of the peel and stick before the metal goes on
@@JamesR23 any specifics on the problems or just a blanket statement. Everyone I know who has done an unvented attic in Florida seems happy with the level of insulation they get.
@@JamesR23 you are incorrect. My unvented attic is doing just fine, lower utilities, no moisture. The only complaint is the foam smell, at least a little
Great video! Is it ok to add a synthetic on top of I & W in order to add an additional layer of protection for the elements as I'm doing my entire roof on my own (and will take several weeks)? I also am concerned about the mineral non-slip surface on the I & W that could rub directly on the underside of the metal.
most of the high temp ice and water will last 90 days to 6 months out in the elements so you may not need the felt. We've had new construction projects go 3 plus months out with not problem through winter while the rest of the building was being built.
do a double layer 50% overlap synthetic felt, and you don't have to worry about water getting under. you get problems only when contractors cut corners and don't overlap much of the underlayment.
If you get grace tri flex xt you will never have nothing to worry about had roof open for 5 months heavy rains etc roof remained dry till I got all the metal to close it
Ice and water barrier was made for the begining edge of the roof where ice dams can form then continue with a good synthetic or felt from that point.. never meant to be used entire roof restricts air movement across decking
I think this is more relevant for asphalt shingles - the shape of metal roof creates an air gap between the metal and the deck underneath it so there is a natural air/ventilation cavity under the metal anyways.
I put both on under my decra shake xd roof, its not about money its about putting on a bullet proof system. I couldn’t be happier after 5 years. Under that i redecked with 7/8 top quality plywood,all screwed down
standing seam metal roof won't let any water get through even if ice builds on unless it is not installed correctly.... so I don't see any reason for any protection of the deck.... only moisture that might build up there but if attic is ventilated correctly with continuous ridge vent there should be no problem
They peeled it off, you can tell by the amount of wrinkles in the underlayment. Sometimes I would leave the backing on small sections when doing a roof and peel it off as I get to doing that section, some ice and water underlayment get super sticky when it's hot and walked on
Great video, at 2:40 is nailing the underlayment that is self -adhered. What is the reason for that process? Is it to hold the sticky product in place until the back is peeled off? DIYer with a low-slope (2.5/12) metal roof in FL
It's basically just to hold it there. Sometimes it's not hot enough for it to fully adhere to the roof decking right away, if it's a bit cooler then you should put fasteners just to hold it there while it heats up and starts to stick.
Do you have to worry about the sheathing breathing? Like getting mold under the sheathing?
Great video! In the future if the peel-and-stick underlayment needs to be removed for whatever reason, how feasible is that process? Will there be any damage to the plywood on the roof in the removal process? Thx.
It would be easier to replace your rood sheathing than remove the peel and stick underlayment. Typically you would re-apply over the existing underlayment rather than remove the old material.
I just had a flat tile roof installed. They used synthetic felt first and waited for inspection. Strong storm came and we had some leaks through that. Them they installed ice and water shield on top of the synthetic felt before they installed the tiles. Is that ok?
Can you use peal and stick if you're using architectural shingles above the ice shield as in metal roofs.
Another great video what is acceptable with roof line deflection on a metal roof?
Can I buy materials from you & install myself?
Will this ice and water shield underlayment be reliable and waterproof under decorative metal sheets that allow the water to go under ?
In Florida, would you recommend using wood purlins under the metal to get more air flow on an unvented attic? Also, would you recommend using a radiant barrier foil on top of the peel and stick before the metal goes on
@alan Lu put in some ridge vents. Unvented attic is a problem and will only grow to be a bigger and bigger problem.
@@JamesR23 any specifics on the problems or just a blanket statement. Everyone I know who has done an unvented attic in Florida seems happy with the level of insulation they get.
Both of those are good things to do but you will be paying a good couple hundred per square to get that done. It's above and beyond what is necessary.
@@JamesR23 you are incorrect. My unvented attic is doing just fine, lower utilities, no moisture. The only complaint is the foam smell, at least a little
Any experience with insulated roofing panels? Would you use firing or put it on the deck?
Furing
Can the high temp. Be able to lay over shingle ?
Great video! Is it ok to add a synthetic on top of I & W in order to add an additional layer of protection for the elements as I'm doing my entire roof on my own (and will take several weeks)? I also am concerned about the mineral non-slip surface on the I & W that could rub directly on the underside of the metal.
most of the high temp ice and water will last 90 days to 6 months out in the elements so you may not need the felt. We've had new construction projects go 3 plus months out with not problem through winter while the rest of the building was being built.
Great video Aaron but don't you lose 90% of your energy star rating by not using 1x4 battened to hold metal off of the deck?
Where is it located on your side
do a double layer 50% overlap synthetic felt, and you don't have to worry about water getting under.
you get problems only when contractors cut corners and don't overlap much of the underlayment.
this roofers r on next level as far safety OSHA will love this video
Thank you
@@ExteriorProInc you should be ashamed off that workers just look how is the safety harness utilized what a joke
@@bygoran I'd like to see your approach.... to safety harness on video...
If you get grace tri flex xt you will never have nothing to worry about had roof open for 5 months heavy rains etc roof remained dry till I got all the metal to close it
Ice and water barrier was made for the begining edge of the roof where ice dams can form then continue with a good synthetic or felt from that point.. never meant to be used entire roof restricts air movement across decking
I think this is more relevant for asphalt shingles - the shape of metal roof creates an air gap between the metal and the deck underneath it so there is a natural air/ventilation cavity under the metal anyways.
I put both on under my decra shake xd roof, its not about money its about putting on a bullet proof system. I couldn’t be happier after 5 years. Under that i redecked with 7/8 top quality plywood,all screwed down
standing seam metal roof won't let any water get through even if ice builds on unless it is not installed correctly.... so I don't see any reason for any protection of the deck.... only moisture that might build up there but if attic is ventilated correctly with continuous ridge vent there should be no problem
What about condensation and frost? The moisturize will get trapped under the metal and above the ice and water?
You need ice and water shield for metal roof or it will weep
Is it just or did they not put that ice/water underlayment down and not peel the back off???
They peeled it off, you can tell by the amount of wrinkles in the underlayment. Sometimes I would leave the backing on small sections when doing a roof and peel it off as I get to doing that section, some ice and water underlayment get super sticky when it's hot and walked on
10 squares of synfelt = ~$60 - 10 squares of sticky stuff = ~$400... OK.
Synethic and ice and water are two different products. Ice and water being more on the higher end and it seals punctures by nails and such