A pair of 2x2x24 angle attached to outside edge of transom on each side will fix that without adding any drag to motor. Sweet build. Bottom Lip on my rig runs entire width but this is lighter smaller.
Thanks! Just wrapping up the rigging and electrical and will share the finished project video soon. Then I start my 17’ sled. That’ll be a whole build series!
@@tomspontoons have you thought about 6 deg hull with a delta pad that runs up to midship. The delta pad lets you run shallow on plane and 6 deg helps with chop
@@omieyouknowme I absolutely have considered that. Probably on another build down the road. My old North River had that, but way too deep of a dead rise for here in Michigan on our shallow rivers.
The butt weld on my first boat was the worst. Pheonix metals has a large distribution from Va all the way southeast. 60×240 sheets of 5083/6 available. Pricey but so worth it for double strength to weight ratio of 5052 and no seam. Looking good! Something else I didn't learn til round 2, always start at the center of what you are welding, the skip Alternatively outward from center, running bead direction toward center. Let's say you have a stringer with 9, 3 inch long welds. The order would be 5, 3, 7, 4, 6, 1, 9, 2, 8. Always welding toward 5. This reduces warp and the tendency to pull the sheet away from rib. Ever think about letting the bottom sheet (and sides?) Run past the transom? Gives you a nice double fillet and leave 1.5 inches and you can bend up or down to trim and control porpoising if your cg is not perfect. You can cutout the jet foot area some and pop rivet a rubber flap to feed the foot better too. Maybe if I had the patience to tig the outside seams I would think that way though 😅 Just some thoughts I wish I knew!
Luckily I’ve got full sheets for the next few builds, so I’m very excited about that! As you know, the things you learn on each project builds and builds making the next even more successful. You’ve got great input here though to consider for my next build!! Thanks!
If you’re confident as a welder the process is pretty straight forward. Avoid too much heat in any one spot to prevent warp, and make adjustments to the shape and lines as you go to make it what you want
I measure and cut everything by hand, so lots of cutting, fitting, re-cutting, fitting, and so on to get the piece to fit just right. I always start on the bigger side so that I can keep trimming it in to fit. The more I do it the less adjusting I've had to do.
@@ThomasMattes-c5d I've experimented quite a bit with that and I don't necessarily choose an angle. I typically have my transom sheet, draw my bottom width/shape, factor in my side walls, and that essentially makes my transom angle where the sidewall meets the transom. This little boat had a lot less angle than I'd normally like to have, but that's because the sidewalls were short in relation to the transom. I would have had to make the bottom width narrower to add angle keeping those side walls, which I didn't want to do for stability sake. I do shoot for 15 degrees of negative trim on the transom as that's extremely important for planing and performance! I've got another boat build video of the 17' that I finished back in September: ruclips.net/video/HfqXNkI2G8w/видео.html
@@ThomasMattes-c5d Happy to help. My big boat build has tons of footage and information too. Essentially, I just MIG everything together, then TIG weld everything that needs to be water tight and anything that I want to look pretty. In a nutshell, a simple boat isn't rocket science, but there's tons of research and development that big boat brands do to fine tune performance and details. Nothing better than running or fishing out of a boat that you built from scratch though!!!
Of course I’ve thought of doing that!! However, the way my brain works I would reinvent them as a different shape for better performance….who knows, maybe someday I’ll get to do that and make a video about it…STAY TOONED!
Shoot me an email to let me know what exactly you’re looking for. I build an 18’ hull that’s overall 20’1” with the welded swim step and anchor tower (no longer than a typical 18’ when factoring in the motor sticking out 2’). This allows for more freedom of layout because a 20’ hull does not require foam flotation. TomsPontoons@gmail.com
It was right around $600. They did it fairly cheap because they’d never tried doing a boat before, but it turned out great. Pretty sure my next build, a 1660, will be powder coated too.
Because I was able to get some overstock sheet and lap joint the bottom and sides it was probably $1500 in aluminum. To do it with full sheets and extrusions I think it'll cost me closer to double that price! Working on a 16X60 modified V right now. Hoping to get some videos out on that in the near future.
Just personal builds. The next two builds will be bigger and more involved, a 1778 and a 1660, so stay tuned! It would be cool to build a couple a year to sell, but becoming a boat builder has a lot of hoops to jump through for a small time custom boat guy!
If I could only have one it would be TIG. However, that’s because I’m working on thin aluminum and sealing leaks often, where a simple MIG setup doesn’t do so well! If all I did were aluminum trailers with thicker aluminum material, for instance, I would certainly prefer MIG. A spool gun for MIG is great for holding stuff together that’s thicker and not as aesthetically important. And the TIG can be tricky working in positions other than on a table or things that are comfortable to access. I much prefer my MIG setup when laying in my back welding!
@@tomspontoons ok, I’m using it to weld up a console on my boat and don’t have as much to put into a machine as I’d like. Some 1/8 plate and welding an anchor tower on. I’m close to you as it is I got all my plate from rescued metals as well. Cool shop.
@@joneastling3336 Nice! I’m in Grand Rapids. In your case I would go with TIG. Those are items you can work on a bench to build making TIG its easiest and they’ll turn out much prettier. My machine is pretty simple but lays some nice welds. Practice practice practice first if you’re new to it, and you’ll be ready before you know it!
You could tell by the test ride how stable she ran and at a good clip. You're onto somethin' special. I was digging the inside handrails. They are a nice touch. Are there any plans for rod holders?
@@awakenedtotruth8419 the handrails are my favorite part. Adds a handle, adds tons of strength/sturdiness, and looks great. I’ll do some Scotty rod holders on the rails. It’ll mostly be a float fishing boat though. My big boat I’m building next will be the trolling boat
Came here looking for how to make metal storage boxes and supports and found the whole boat. Love it.
Awesome, thanks for watching! We've got a couple more boat builds on the channel including my big river boat!
More aluminum boat builds please
Working on it! I will start my 17' Mod-V project in another month or so here...should be a really fun project and video series! Stay tuned...
Yeah, so enjoyed this episode Tom, thanks🌈
Thanks for watching!
Gud trademan tech 😮
Thanks for watching!
Very nice!
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Very nice
Thanks!!
Do you purchase your consumables from harbor freight as well? Tips and wire and such?
I did at one point, but I prefer 5356 filler for MIG and TIG and buy it in much higher quantities from a local weld shop.
A pair of 2x2x24 angle attached to outside edge of transom on each side will fix that without adding any drag to motor. Sweet build.
Bottom Lip on my rig runs entire width but this is lighter smaller.
Thanks! Just wrapping up the rigging and electrical and will share the finished project video soon. Then I start my 17’ sled. That’ll be a whole build series!
@@tomspontoons looking fwd to it. 17' tiller or center console
@@omieyouknowme 17.5’ long, 78” bottom, 98” beam, 3 degree modified V hull. Tiller 140/100 Suzuki Jet with a Yamaha T9.9 kicker. Can’t wait!!
@@tomspontoons have you thought about 6 deg hull with a delta pad that runs up to midship. The delta pad lets you run shallow on plane and 6 deg helps with chop
@@omieyouknowme I absolutely have considered that. Probably on another build down the road. My old North River had that, but way too deep of a dead rise for here in Michigan on our shallow rivers.
Rescued metals rules!
I’ve gotten a lot of sheet for great prices from them for all sorts of projects! I just wish they weren’t an hour away from me.
How did you rip open the tubing to get around the top edge of the boat?
I set up a guide on my table saw and rip it on there. Works pretty darn well for 0.100” walled tube!
The butt weld on my first boat was the worst. Pheonix metals has a large distribution from Va all the way southeast. 60×240 sheets of 5083/6 available. Pricey but so worth it for double strength to weight ratio of 5052 and no seam. Looking good! Something else I didn't learn til round 2, always start at the center of what you are welding, the skip Alternatively outward from center, running bead direction toward center. Let's say you have a stringer with 9, 3 inch long welds. The order would be 5, 3, 7, 4, 6, 1, 9, 2, 8. Always welding toward 5. This reduces warp and the tendency to pull the sheet away from rib. Ever think about letting the bottom sheet (and sides?) Run past the transom? Gives you a nice double fillet and leave 1.5 inches and you can bend up or down to trim and control porpoising if your cg is not perfect. You can cutout the jet foot area some and pop rivet a rubber flap to feed the foot better too. Maybe if I had the patience to tig the outside seams I would think that way though 😅 Just some thoughts I wish I knew!
Luckily I’ve got full sheets for the next few builds, so I’m very excited about that! As you know, the things you learn on each project builds and builds making the next even more successful. You’ve got great input here though to consider for my next build!! Thanks!
How hard is this to build?
If you’re confident as a welder the process is pretty straight forward. Avoid too much heat in any one spot to prevent warp, and make adjustments to the shape and lines as you go to make it what you want
NIce!
Thanks!!
❤What is the thickness of the aluminum material...? please thanks
0.125” thickness for everything. Build specs are in the description.
@@tomspontoonsmuchas gracias ❤
Do you have any plans for his boat? Would like to make 1
I don’t have plans…My builds just sort of start with a drawing and then I adjust things to the materials I have and the shape the boat takes.
I am also interested in if you decide to draw and sell the plans.
How do you get the angles for the build heads ?
I measure and cut everything by hand, so lots of cutting, fitting, re-cutting, fitting, and so on to get the piece to fit just right. I always start on the bigger side so that I can keep trimming it in to fit. The more I do it the less adjusting I've had to do.
@@tomspontoons ok. And what angles do you cut the transom at ?
@@ThomasMattes-c5d I've experimented quite a bit with that and I don't necessarily choose an angle. I typically have my transom sheet, draw my bottom width/shape, factor in my side walls, and that essentially makes my transom angle where the sidewall meets the transom. This little boat had a lot less angle than I'd normally like to have, but that's because the sidewalls were short in relation to the transom. I would have had to make the bottom width narrower to add angle keeping those side walls, which I didn't want to do for stability sake.
I do shoot for 15 degrees of negative trim on the transom as that's extremely important for planing and performance! I've got another boat build video of the 17' that I finished back in September:
ruclips.net/video/HfqXNkI2G8w/видео.html
@@tomspontoons thank you for the information I’m planning on building my first aluminum boat here soon. And any tips help.
@@ThomasMattes-c5d Happy to help. My big boat build has tons of footage and information too. Essentially, I just MIG everything together, then TIG weld everything that needs to be water tight and anything that I want to look pretty. In a nutshell, a simple boat isn't rocket science, but there's tons of research and development that big boat brands do to fine tune performance and details. Nothing better than running or fishing out of a boat that you built from scratch though!!!
what was the estimate for all the materials used in the video.
I had some overstock sheet that was discounted so ended up close to $1500 I believe
Great vid!
Any thoughts of welding your own custom pontoons?
Of course I’ve thought of doing that!! However, the way my brain works I would reinvent them as a different shape for better performance….who knows, maybe someday I’ll get to do that and make a video about it…STAY TOONED!
Serious question!!?? What would you charge for a 16 FT SLED? Or 17.5 FT sled?
Shoot me an email to let me know what exactly you’re looking for. I build an 18’ hull that’s overall 20’1” with the welded swim step and anchor tower (no longer than a typical 18’ when factoring in the motor sticking out 2’). This allows for more freedom of layout because a 20’ hull does not require foam flotation.
TomsPontoons@gmail.com
how much was the powdercoating?
It was right around $600. They did it fairly cheap because they’d never tried doing a boat before, but it turned out great. Pretty sure my next build, a 1660, will be powder coated too.
How much do you got into This build
Because I was able to get some overstock sheet and lap joint the bottom and sides it was probably $1500 in aluminum. To do it with full sheets and extrusions I think it'll cost me closer to double that price! Working on a 16X60 modified V right now. Hoping to get some videos out on that in the near future.
Are these personal builds or are you selling these?
Just personal builds. The next two builds will be bigger and more involved, a 1778 and a 1660, so stay tuned! It would be cool to build a couple a year to sell, but becoming a boat builder has a lot of hoops to jump through for a small time custom boat guy!
I imagine the regulations involved with each state may be challenging and totally worth doing when you love the doing.
Is the transom cut at a 45 degree angle ?
On the sides?
I am getting a aluminum welder but can only get one.. mig machine or tig?
If I could only have one it would be TIG. However, that’s because I’m working on thin aluminum and sealing leaks often, where a simple MIG setup doesn’t do so well! If all I did were aluminum trailers with thicker aluminum material, for instance, I would certainly prefer MIG.
A spool gun for MIG is great for holding stuff together that’s thicker and not as aesthetically important. And the TIG can be tricky working in positions other than on a table or things that are comfortable to access. I much prefer my MIG setup when laying in my back welding!
@@tomspontoons ok, I’m using it to weld up a console on my boat and don’t have as much to put into a machine as I’d like. Some 1/8 plate and welding an anchor tower on. I’m close to you as it is I got all my plate from rescued metals as well. Cool shop.
@@joneastling3336 Nice! I’m in Grand Rapids. In your case I would go with TIG. Those are items you can work on a bench to build making TIG its easiest and they’ll turn out much prettier. My machine is pretty simple but lays some nice welds. Practice practice practice first if you’re new to it, and you’ll be ready before you know it!
Entranced
It’s a sweet little vessel so far! 100 times better than version 1
You could tell by the test ride how stable she ran and at a good clip. You're onto somethin' special. I was digging the inside handrails. They are a nice touch. Are there any plans for rod holders?
@@awakenedtotruth8419 the handrails are my favorite part. Adds a handle, adds tons of strength/sturdiness, and looks great.
I’ll do some Scotty rod holders on the rails. It’ll mostly be a float fishing boat though. My big boat I’m building next will be the trolling boat
What welders are you using for this project? Also What welder would you recommend for welding aluminum .125 to .190
How much does something like this cost?
Somewhere between $3000 and $5000 in materials, and probably 100 hours +/-