Danny you need an automated email response that sends answers to your top 10 questions and then people can reply if that doesn't answer their question. You also need a page on the site that lists the speakers you have already evaluated, don't worry about pricing on that list, just have a list that you can easily update.
Spoke with Danny the other day, what a nice guy picked up the phone himself, he did not rush me off the phone as a result i purchased the sony upgrade kit and a speaker kit, great customer service something that hard to find.
I have the Ultra bookshelf... Had them for awhile, and something is missing... I have the center channel too, I will be ordering both kits next week when you folks get back from Christmas break. Thanks for offering this service.
As opposed to freezing rain, which truly can be absolutely the worst ... causing broken tree limbs, downed power lines, and oftentimes, it magically turns motorists into idiots.
Good measurements should improve the sound but, is that the case with all speakers? Not so sure. I would like to see these performance improvents include listening session so that owners know what to expect. Realize that this will take time and increase the cost. Just a thought.
You know? It would be very enlightening if you could have the person most responsible for a speaker's design with you while you are doing one of these things. They could explain what they were thinking and what constraints they were working under. And we could learn what measurements they had at their disposal when they designed the crossover. They could tell us what options were available to them in terms of component selection as well as their understanding of the effects such choices would have on the final sound of their design. It just a thought. Love these videos btw. They are each and every one a "Master Class" in speaker design I could only have dreamed of back in 1986 when I was first bitten by the high fidelity bug and I appreciate them very much.
We had a speaker building contest at work where I used my SVS Ultra Bookshelves as a reference. A coworker built the Danny's base X-LS kit which we listened to first. We then hooked up and listened to My SVS Ultra's . We didn't even finish the first song before EVERYONE in the room wanted to switch back to the GR X-LS speakers. The difference was that apparent. To all SVS Ultra owners, save you money on upgrading them but instead sell them and buy Danny's X-LS or another GR speaker kit. This is what I did, I sold the Ultras as well as all my other commercially made speakers now own a pair of X-LS, X-Omnis, NX-Studios, and Insignias (Best Buy) with the GR crossover upgrade in custom cabinets.
Omnis use the same drivers as the X-LS except the woofer faces straight up which makes it "OMNI"- directional. See the "AV-O" which is on the website, same setup with X-LS drivers. Contact Danny for pricing, will be higher than X-LS at least in part because there are some bigger capacitors in the crossover. Crossover is significantly different the X-LS so you can't just buy the X-LS kit and switch driver placement. Interesting speaker, if you have rooms in back of the speaker like I do sound quality does not change in the lower frequencies in back of the speaker because of the woofer placement.
@@kenzilla8096, it's the bane of audio... High end quality sucks ben-franklins like a vacuum. Thankfully, these days, it's possible to do much research before making mistaken purchases. Be perceptive, Daniel Ritchie shoots it straight, listen carefully and deeply, be thoughtful of what you wish to accomplish for your goal, .... and then... you will be happy with your decisions. Danny Ritchie is bigger than the Audio-Jesus, anything that he says that you don't understand,... It's is because of your lack of development at that point of your life :-) Perform work in your development of what you wish to accomplish. Danny Ritchie will tell you how to arrive to your desired destination.
Danny, you couldn’t make it any more clear or plain. It’s not hard. People make it hard by not listening and following clear and plain language. Keep up the good work Danny! Your solutions make smiles and make music sound better! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
You know the SVS ultras sound really good for their price . They have a special sound stamp. Also the good performance of a speaker comes from good amplifier matching. What if this upgrade will change the machine with my amplifier since It was upgrades using Danny’s amp. Last one , good quality speaker sound is decided by our ears and not measurements which are only baseline information. Thanks
@@dannyrichie9743 you should definitely check out some of these comments about having a database for all of the speakers you've already upgraded in the past and maybe a bit of what you did to each. I'm on the fence of buying either a full set of Ohm Walsh 3000 speakers or Monitor Audio Silvers including the 500 and would love to know if you've previously worked on them
@Da LimOh, for sure a chunk of brass with a steel nut does a better job at ensuring the path of least resistance, as long as it's gold plated and connects directly to a PCB with electrolytics and dental floss inductors.
@Da Lim They are called that because they have a baseless belief and refuse to hear anything to the contrary. And they stand firm on a position of ignorance.
would enjoy seeing you do more teardowns of the speakers you are upgrading, showing the viewers what's inside various models - like @RoseAnvil does with boots. Show us what's inside and give them a grade and ideas on how to upgrade each one and what performance can be achieved, with your graphs & charts
I was also. I upgraded some Carnegie CST-1's. I'm impressed ruclips.net/video/YeuULgzIUC4/видео.html This video barely captures the notable improvement.
I agree with some others, a page on your site with a list of speakers you have already done the design work for would be great. They could click on it, see the list of parts or "the upgrade kit" (part number of said kit), then place in a kart for checkout to see the price. Or maybe a FAQ page would help. Whenever you receive emails asking questions, you refer them to the sites FAQ page and list of speakers page.
I certainly understand we some people would like to "upgrade" their vintage speakers, but is it really worth it? For the amount of money you're going to put into them, the better option would be to buy new speakers. There are some really nice speakers out there that won't break the bank and will blow those old puppies out of the water! Leave the old ones alone, and enjoy them for what they were.
Danny sometimes in the near future you may like to talk about VOICING the speakers, e.g. what is your opinion about BBC dip, or a gradual sloping down above 5khz to 20Khz by about 1-2dB, a general comment about voicing a pair of spkrs like a fashion for that era?
I have often wondered it was a (long term listening) tonal preference, simply the nature of cone materials used... to reduce "driver anomalies" in the crossover region or even possibly the crossover itself... A great question, I would love to hear Danny's perspective and possible solution for the phenomenon. I am thinking the 'classic' B&W 801 and or the LS5/9, I spent a lot of time with both (in the day) I am not sure if I could live with them today.
I am so very much looking forward to being able to purchase an upgrade kit for these SVS Ultra bookshelves. I am very impressed with the upgraded Carnegie CST-1's that I purchased from you.
Recently discovered your channel and it's very informative and entertaining and interesting. Do you have videos on speakers you like straight from the manufacturer without the need to upgrade ? If you don't have such videos can you do one where you recommend different tower and shelf speakers at different price points and maybe do a video for HI FI and one for watching TV and movies but not necessarily a home theatre. Look forward to watching more of your videos .
Another great video Danny TYTY! I am glad to hear you addresses the realities of vintage speakers. Many of the 'classic' JBL speakers would be a no go for me due the particular front baffle and driver layout, as you politely state... the acoustic nature of the designs with "funky (my words) driver placement", sadly... there is no getting around it. GR Research designed speakers are in my future. I am thinking / really liking the open baffle designs...
Another fun video. Thanks so much for your work Danny. I've enjoyed learning how to read the graphs with your clear and easy to understand explanations. Gotta quick question for you Danny. When you've designed and built a crossover, tested, tweaked, tested, changed out a component, tested, changed another, tested. looked at the response and all the curves etc. and are finally 'graph happy' What tunes do you like to play that you know well that you can just sit back and let that smile creep across your face as you realise the improvements you've made, casting all the technicalities aside and doing the 'pleasure test'? Distance is a problem for me to send you speakers so I'm considering one of your kits. Looking forward to that journey. Thanks again from NZ. P.S hairs looking good. You'd fit in well down here, especially if you're into a bit of rock.
Comparative listening has been done on each type of part, component, wire, etc. So I already know what to expect or what the result will be. And then the crossover is designed to achieve an accurate response free of errors. And I am still old school. I do like to rock.
Love these vids . Danny could make a list of all speakers he already went thru with upgrades and has all upgrade details in archives. Point is, these speakers may not have to be shipped to Danny and he may have a DIY kit just for you all ready with out shipping speakers back and forth...
I have a few vintage speakers with ferrofluid tweeters.. Could you talk a little on FF tweeters in the future?? do they dry out and lose their sound quality? TY
Hello Danny, your videos are quite addicting. I am wondering if you got the chance to see the inside of the B&W CM 10 s2 and if by any chance you have a kit for that. Thanks a lot.
I'd wager you could come up with a better crossover for the thousands of Advents available to play with. Especially the Smaller Advents which have the smaller baffle that you prefer.
Ha! I would say always! My ears always get the final say. I don't care what the measurement is, if it don't sound right to my ears, I won't be happy with it. After all, I'm not trying to make the computer happy, it's my ears that need to be happy!
Check out the other gentleman's comment in this video's comments list. Comparing the SVS to one of Danny's kits. It seemed to be no contest. I purchased and upgraded some Carnegie CST-1's from Danny. I was hoping the carnegies would be nearly as good as the SVS Ultra bookshelf, and I was quite surprised that they are significantly better, especially after-upgrade. If I was not stuck with the "wife-aesthetic-decor look" of the SVS Ultras, I would probably not purchase them first, to then upgrade them.
Can one of you guys send Yamaha NS-F700 speaker to Danny please? Recently opened my to see what's inside and I was shocked. Really love the speakers tho.
@@joanfrederick9176 am not buying into any crap, I have been into audio for 35 years and I have not owned a set of speakers that could not be improved, I know that because I have upgraded crossovers myself and I have listened to the difference with my own ears (and I don't buy into the placebo effect with upgrades) but there are things that I do not have the experience or knowledge to change myself, that is why I know someone like Danny could do what I am not able to do. Don't be a shit disturber, what difference does it make to you if someone wants to upgrade their speakers? it is not your money we are spending.
Danny - I know I must be getting old when I spend more time watching your videos than listening to music - Joke for Danny = "If the earth is flat, why are most speaker drivers round?" - Could not resist the pun - Thanks for your vids
I've noticed that you said this speaker is 4 Ohms and you've said some other SVS speakers are 4ohms as well in different videos that I've watched. Why is it that SVS labels them as 8 ohm speakers?
What is your opinion on the Infinity range of speakers? I have 2 pairs of Infinity R125s and I personally love the sound of them. Just interested if you have seen or heard these and your thoughts about them
My thanks to for Danny doing this, and to the person who sent him the SVS Ultra bookshelf. I am very much looking forward to a follow-up "results" video. I am hoping that "one day soon" , to be able to purchase an upgrade kit for my SVS Ultra bookshelves, so that they might sound nearly as good as the Carnegie CST-1's that I purchased (and then upgraded) from Danny several months ago.
Hi Danny, just love your channel and attitude. Might be my path getting into kits one day, though might miss some skills. Question for now: Buchardt S400 - ever offered a parts upgrade for the crossover network? Guess overall quality is ok but there was a limited edition with Jantzen stuff. Any plans?
Better crossover components equals better sound, but as far as "very smeared sound" on those SVS's Bullshit. Maybe in comparison to another very specific speaker they may sound more smeared than the other..There are definitely improvements to be made but "appreciable" improvements needs to be kept in mind instead of just throwing money at it past the line of diminishing returns. Especially when attempting to surpass the limits and capabilities of the original design (drivers and cabinet). Not every little dip and hump in the response HAS to be tinkered with. Good sound can exist without the perfect flat line response. those dips and humps are sometimes the character of the speaker that you like and changing to far may lose that character. That said, Danny does definitely know what he's doing. Just keep your own goals in mind for your speaker. As far as replacing drivers then you're basically talking about a different speaker. Companies like Polk have new drivers that are specifically compatible with old designs. Throwing any old driver (even a "better" one) in an old box is creating a completely different speaker altogether. That's when it's worth learning how to do some measurements and designing yourself. On old $100 speakers you're better off having fun with them while learning to do it yourself than sending it out and spending $500 on the "perfect" crossovers. Kabuki's are just meant to be loud, high sensitivity fun. They are what they are. There are huge built in flaws with those designs and as Danny said, not worth attempting to upgrade.
Compared to any of our products that we have in house or compared to anything I am used to listening to, the SVS and most all other speakers in its class that use budget level parts have a smeared sound. That's just a given when using a bunch of electrolytic caps. And if I have to design a whole new crossover to fix obvious issues then I'll address all the issues and make them more accurate across the board. And a hump in the response, or some woofer cone break up is never an appreciable character. And the cost of the upgrade will come in well below $500. It will be about half of that. So fixing them will be quite the bargain.
@@dannyrichie9743 I understand. I was hyperbolic in some statements but was mainly trying to make 2 points the point of picking and choosing what one decided to upgrade. And that you can upgrade your speakers right out of the character that you may have liked to begin with, as I have found out first hand after spending $200 on upgrades to Polk monitor 7's and though ending up with much more clarity and resolution, not being exactly happy with the drastically different result because it changed the fundamental sound of the speaker that I liked to begin with . That's why I mentioned keeping in mind your own goals for the speaker. This does speak to the fact that these upgrades definitely can make a huge difference though.
Another great talk Danny. i'm trying to wrap my head around how much you can do to the inside of the "box" when upgrading. I mean I have a set of speakers I want to upgrade the crossover parts to (better parts, same specs), and I was wondering if adding stuff to deadning the box resonances would require any changes in the crossover? It's a ported box, and hardly any dampening materlial inside (that is visual). Is there any thing to watch out for in this regards?
Hi Danny, love your channel so thanks for the great service you provide. I’m from Australia so naturally it’d be economically prohibitive to send you my heavy JBL4312 monitors. Being a fairly common speaker system, do you have an off the shelf upgrade for these? I understand that you don’t do that but I thought you may have done some in the past and might have a design that you know works. Alternatively do you know someone down here that you could recommend? Cheers.
Hi Danny, I bought Super V's from you and love them. How does the Encore compare to the Tyler Acoustic speaker you designed? I want to buy a good pair of bookshelves for my son. Thanks in advance.
Great video! I noticed that you said the Ultra Bookshelf speaker was 4 ohm. But, SVS lists this one and all its Ultra speakers at 8 ohm. Is SVS misleading us with their official specs?
@@dannyrichie9743 thanks for your response and all the videos. Really wish these companies would simply be truthful in their specs. It’s like they’re afraid to put anything but 8 ohm on the speaker.
Thanks for this video Danny! Is there a web page/list where can we find out what speakers you've already looked at? I'm interested in mods/upgrades for the ELAC uni-fi UB5.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thanks Danny. I imagine I'll be building some X-LS Encores somewhere down the road...unless you've got any new stand mount designs/kits in the works?
Have you ever worked on the B&W 705 S2 ??? I’m curious what you would think / feel needs upgrading. Knowing B&W I would assume the crossover is prob in needing of upgrading the most.
Do you have a data base of speakers that you have previously „upgraded“, for example I have a pair of Tannoy DTM 10‘s that could very well do with some upgrade to cabinet damping/crossover/binding posts/wiring, unfortunately sending them to you from Germany would make no economic sense, I am a professional sound engineer and System engineer, I use AMFG SysTune for System analysis but I am not trained in traditional crossover design, only dsp based design, could I send you measurements and you then design a crossover?
yes they are but not the dodgy Chinese kits. gives you better excursion on the lower frequencies and placement against the wall prevents booming from the rear Port
@@dannyrichie9743 After building an early kit version of that design with the cheaper drivers and crossovers, and comparing them to the higher end factory built in the retailer’s show room, I’d be inclined to agree with you. Frankly, I’d probably take a pair of mid 80’s Boston A150’s over the AN-Es.
@@dannyrichie9743 Hi Danny, There are 18 variations of the AN-E, from affordable to the price of a house. Almost all models have the exact same cabinet, tweeter and driver, except for the few very expensive models that have an Alnico driver magnets. The price difference is in the crossover, internal cabling and silver voice coils. I really like that small baffle speakers have the 'perfect' shape and have less surface reflections, because of WAF and not having a huge speaker in de living room .. But I would really like to understand why the AN-E sounds so incredibly to lots of people. I dont mean mainstream guys who like b & w crap, but really music lovers. I even believe that they make the cabinet resonate correctly and this has a positive effect on certain overtones perhaps. Are you sure they were listening to Audio Note speakers and not cheaper Peter Snell speakers, they look quite the same?
I got a wife that was manufactured in 1988 and here recently the high and midrange started sounding off at random , could something be wrong in her crossover and is there a fix? 😆 just kidding awesome video brother!
Nice! Yes, there is a fix ... but this one is a DIY project for sure. You're right, get in there and fiddle with that crossover, sometimes it just takes a little bit of work to achievethe response you want. Please, don't try to upgrade, ... you never know what you'll get or what it'll cost you! Also, don't worry about the enclosure, it's what's inside that counts. I know, and she's right, Meghan Trainor says, it's "All About That Bass". Please be mindful, everyone enjoys a couple details in the middle, but one needs to address both the 𝘵𝘰𝘱 𝘦𝘯𝘥 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘣𝘰𝘵𝘵𝘰𝘮 𝘦𝘯𝘥;) Coming up on four decades with my beautiful vintage piece. And although Meghan Trainor is right, ... I'm also down with Harry Styles' "Watermelon Sugar"... yep, indeed. All the best brother
@@FOH3663 thanks brother for the prompt reply and yes sir you were right just a little jiggling on the wires worked wonders! P.S your response made our day as we love to joke and pick with each other because we're facing dark days atm and going through her battle with cancer has taken it's toll on her and just to see her smile makes all the difference in the world to us.
hi , there just curious, you make a case against the wide baffle of vintage speakers, i don't have but Harbeth has a model 40.2 ................ 3 way with 12 inch woofer very wide baffle/ any comments on that , please
I don't charge anything to test, measure and evaluate it. If it is big and requires a lot of un-packing and repacking then there will have to be a handling fee.
The one thing I noted you never talk about (or at least I never seem to notice) is what you're doing to the overall power handling of a speaker. Lowering the crossover point may make a speaker sound better, but it's making the mid/tweeter handle more power than originally intended. Thus, a 30 watt driver may have to handle 30% more energy than originally intended. It is possible to turn a speaker system rated at 200W into something that can only handle 120W before the tweeter or midrange blows. I hope you're informing all your clients of this. I would hate to have someone take it home and hook it back up to his 200W amp. Not to tell you how to do your job, but I certainly would like to know the new power handling capability of my newly modified speakers. Of course, one could replace the driver, or add another driver, but then that is basically redesigning everything (as you mentioned). Another thing I noticed is your criticism of ferrous components and "dental floss" wiring. While I agree with your criticism, I've never seen a capacitor or resistor that did not have ferrous leads. I wonder where you're finding caps and resistors with non-ferrous leads? As far as I know, such does not exist, anywhere, for any price. Good coils - no problem. Caps and resistors with non-ferrous leads - never seen it. And then there's the 'dental floss' wiring. Almost every crossover PCB I've ever seen uses paper thin copper foil or very rarely silver. Just as bad are amplifiers, which usually have paper thin copper foil between the output components and binding posts. Even high end amps costing thousands of dollars often do this. That foil might be fine for low level signals before amplification, but I seriously have to question any stated commitment to audiophile quality (any company) when I find paper thin foil carrying an amplified signal within an amplifier. Even if we eliminate the paper thin copper foil from the amplified signal path, we are still left with the 'dental floss' leads of typical electronic components (which, with the exception of quality coils, are all ferrous), in both the speaker and the amplifier. I agree with all your criticisms. But I'd like to know if you found components with robust non ferrous leds, and how you fortify or eliminate the paper thin foil in clients Xover PCBs. Quite frankly, if I were to re-engineer a clients Xover, I would not even have anything soldered to the PCB. It would become just a rigid structure to hold everything in place. Leads would be soldered directly to each other, and high voltage caps often have more beefy leads. Unfortunately, I cannot think of anything to do about ferrous leads.
Firstly, the crossover points can often be lowered without changing or effecting power handling. And in many cases the power handling (from a technical point of view) can be greater if that drivers isn't playing as low. And yes, I mean that a tweeter can cross over at a lower point while not playing as low. And all of the capacitors that we use are non-ferrous. The Mills resistors are non-ferrous as well. Also, all of the upgrades we offer are point to point wired. So there are no PCB's in the signal path.
@@dannyrichie9743 You're just going to have to show me those caps with non-ferrous leads. I know lots of caps are, themselves, nonferrous. But I've never clipped the lead off a cap or resistor and not had the lead stick to a magnet. You don't even need to wreck a component. Just clip a quarter inch off and show it slide off a magnet. I'll be impressed. Good to hear about your handling of PCBs at the speaker end. But everyone also needs to open up their amps and take a good look at what they bought. Or have someone qualified to do it for them.
@@jdlech Sure Buddy, try www.jantzen-audio.com for example, their Superior Silver caps are brilliant, same goes for 8awg made to order flat ribbon air inductors and MOX resistors.
Danny, I've got a question about many of the vintage JBLs, like Kenrick sound work with. People are crazy about them and Kenrick do top quality restorations and modifications, the drive units are obviously great quality, but the cabinets break every rule in your design book...is it just that people who like the JBLs aren't concerned with imaging and colouration?
Those Kenrick JBLs represent both a collector's item, and a high performance loudspeaker. Individuals purchasing those loudspeakers want the classic visual aesthetic that comes with those big front baffles. Keep in mind most all of those were designed to be flush mounted in a soffit. The large baffles mate well with flush mounting. Big soffited studio monitors don't resolve the perceived soundstage depth that home enthusiasts can generate with careful setup/placement well away from boundaries. In the studio soundstage depth details are forsaken to eliminate SBIR via a coherent hemispheric wavelaunch into the room. Without the FR ripple of SBIR, a smooth frequency response results. Also higher output, lower distortion, linear/low compression dynamics even at realistically high playback levels. Of all those gorgeous Kenrick offerings, I dig the big JBL cabinets, ... the blue baffled studio monitors, as well as the various iterations of the Everest line. However, my all time fave is likely the various TAD equipped Kinoshita two ways from Rey ... those beautiful solid wood HF horns. Still to this day, the great George Augsburger monitors (that are installed everywhere) mimics that same classic mtm approach to a simple, 15" two-way, high-output/low distortion studio monitors.
@@FOH3663 Thanks for the explanation. I too love the look of those JBLs, although I've never listened for real. I have to say though, many of the homes Kenrick install in hardly achieve "...setup/placement well away from boundaries." Some barely fit in the room! I guess in the end it's all a matter of personal priorities....
Why to knock the box with hand and use ears to determine if the box is resonating? Why not measure it with sensors and compare before - after results? This is only way to validate the solution.
i would like to upgrade my small spendor standmount speakers with gr-research diy ones. but i can not seem to find a option i would like. a sealed box narrow speaker would be to my liking. if i lived in the same continent i would get some drivers and send them over and pay for crossover done right, i do speaker design and play around with visuals, but stuck at crossover design.
@@dannyrichie9743 that would be a good choice, but i rather have a m130 version and maybe a MTM configuration. i was hoping there was a NX-Studio with 5" woofer.
@@dannyrichie9743 i totally missed that option, guess i did not look at all the options, but i also have questions about using center channel as main speakers, is there any tuning to make the center version work near boundaries or otherwise home theatre oriented?
yes for the subwoofers when people have 1000+watts to the speaker. Typical home audio will have 100watts or less and normally you may he surprised to know that even with a regular 100watt per channel amp, it is only putting out a few watts normally.
The author Tim Ferriss had the same problems with emails and calls. He hired a remote assistant to take care of all of that so that he could focus on the work he actually wanted to do. His assistant happened to be in India I believe, but their english was excellent, and the cost was less than half what it would cost here. Just a thought.
@@dannyrichie9743 After watching a couple of your videos like this one, I could answer most questions. The ones that the assistant can't answer are the ones that get through to you.
One would think that since SVS makes these $1200 dollar speakers in China, they would use good parts quality to start... These companies want to make these products on the cheap and still charge a fortune.
You're a good guy Danny and thanks for being upfront and honest on the matter.
Danny you need an automated email response that sends answers to your top 10 questions and then people can reply if that doesn't answer their question. You also need a page on the site that lists the speakers you have already evaluated, don't worry about pricing on that list, just have a list that you can easily update.
Yes. A database of speakers that have previously been evaluated & redesigned would be very helpful.
@@thomjmoore i would buy a kit
You should demo the speaker before and after the tune up, then we can get a better idea of what we can expect.
Spoke with Danny the other day, what a nice guy picked up the phone himself, he did not rush me off the phone as a result i purchased the sony upgrade kit and a speaker kit, great customer service something that hard to find.
I have the Ultra bookshelf... Had them for awhile, and something is missing... I have the center channel too, I will be ordering both kits next week when you folks get back from Christmas break. Thanks for offering this service.
Brilliant yet simple explanation.
Easy for your average “Joe” to understand
Welsh Rarebit true but don’t expect your average joe to stay average forever especially with a subject like engineering
"We're getting 'wet rain' " 0:17
Love it!
As opposed to freezing rain, which truly can be absolutely the worst ... causing broken tree limbs, downed power lines, and oftentimes, it magically turns motorists into idiots.
Good measurements should improve the sound but, is that the case with all speakers? Not so sure.
I would like to see these performance improvents include listening session so that owners know what to expect.
Realize that this will take time and increase the cost. Just a thought.
I have heard some great 3 way designs, but my favorites have been a simple 2 way speaker.
They are some good 3 ways out there they just cost ABIT more
You know? It would be very enlightening if you could have the person most responsible for a speaker's design with you while you are doing one of these things. They could explain what they were thinking and what constraints they were working under. And we could learn what measurements they had at their disposal when they designed the crossover. They could tell us what options were available to them in terms of component selection as well as their understanding of the effects such choices would have on the final sound of their design. It just a thought. Love these videos btw. They are each and every one a "Master Class" in speaker design I could only have dreamed of back in 1986 when I was first bitten by the high fidelity bug and I appreciate them very much.
We had a speaker building contest at work where I used my SVS Ultra Bookshelves as a reference. A coworker built the Danny's base X-LS kit which we listened to first. We then hooked up and listened to My SVS Ultra's . We didn't even finish the first song before EVERYONE in the room wanted to switch back to the GR X-LS speakers. The difference was that apparent. To all SVS Ultra owners, save you money on upgrading them but instead sell them and buy Danny's X-LS or another GR speaker kit. This is what I did, I sold the Ultras as well as all my other commercially made speakers now own a pair of X-LS, X-Omnis, NX-Studios, and Insignias (Best Buy) with the GR crossover upgrade in custom cabinets.
Thank you very much for this information. I was thinking about this exact thing.
Hi. What kind of speakers are the omnis? Why do they cost so much?
Omnis use the same drivers as the X-LS except the woofer faces straight up which makes it "OMNI"- directional. See the "AV-O" which is on the website, same setup with X-LS drivers.
Contact Danny for pricing, will be higher than X-LS at least in part because there are some bigger capacitors in the crossover. Crossover is significantly different the X-LS so you can't just buy the X-LS kit and switch driver placement. Interesting speaker, if you have rooms in back of the speaker like I do sound quality does not change in the lower frequencies in back of the speaker because of the woofer placement.
@@kenzilla8096, it's the bane of audio... High end quality sucks ben-franklins like a vacuum.
Thankfully, these days, it's possible to do much research before making mistaken purchases.
Be perceptive,
Daniel Ritchie shoots it straight, listen carefully and deeply,
be thoughtful of what you wish to accomplish for your goal,
.... and then... you will be happy with your decisions.
Danny Ritchie is bigger than the Audio-Jesus,
anything that he says that you don't understand,...
It's is because of your lack of development at that point of your life :-)
Perform work in your development of what you wish to accomplish. Danny Ritchie will tell you how to arrive to your desired destination.
@@AverageNiceGuy hi. Have you gotten any of Gr Research speakers? Im thinking of getting one floorstanding but i live in a small apartment
Danny, you couldn’t make it any more clear or plain. It’s not hard. People make it hard by not listening and following clear and plain language. Keep up the good work Danny! Your solutions make smiles and make music sound better! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
You know the SVS ultras sound really good for their price . They have a special sound stamp. Also the good performance of a speaker comes from good amplifier matching. What if this upgrade will change the machine with my amplifier since It was upgrades using Danny’s amp. Last one , good quality speaker sound is decided by our ears and not measurements which are only baseline information. Thanks
Nothing that I do will change amplifier compatibility. And your ears will notice a significant improvement.
@@dannyrichie9743 you should definitely check out some of these comments about having a database for all of the speakers you've already upgraded in the past and maybe a bit of what you did to each. I'm on the fence of buying either a full set of Ohm Walsh 3000 speakers or Monitor Audio Silvers including the 500 and would love to know if you've previously worked on them
People, listen, he is correct. I learned 25 years ago building my first few speakers.
Always good, detailed, no-BS content. Thanks!
*cough* check out his test of audiophile cables video using a tuner
@Da Lim i wouldn't start with the name calling. That test was next level BS, but lots of good info coming from him otherwise
@Da LimOh, for sure a chunk of brass with a steel nut does a better job at ensuring the path of least resistance, as long as it's gold plated and connects directly to a PCB with electrolytics and dental floss inductors.
I was wonder where all the flat earth guys went.
@Da Lim They are called that because they have a baseless belief and refuse to hear anything to the contrary. And they stand firm on a position of ignorance.
i am hooked on this guuru..he has opened my eyes
would enjoy seeing you do more teardowns of the speakers you are upgrading, showing the viewers what's inside various models - like @RoseAnvil does with boots. Show us what's inside and give them a grade and ideas on how to upgrade each one and what performance can be achieved, with your graphs & charts
Keep it coming Danny. Love the videos.
I am pumped to get my GR mods!
I was also. I upgraded some Carnegie CST-1's. I'm impressed ruclips.net/video/YeuULgzIUC4/видео.html
This video barely captures the notable improvement.
these videos could be upgrade with no advertisements. Sweet Jesus, I'm on the third already.
I agree with some others, a page on your site with a list of speakers you have already done the design work for would be great. They could click on it, see the list of parts or "the upgrade kit" (part number of said kit), then place in a kart for checkout to see the price. Or maybe a FAQ page would help. Whenever you receive emails asking questions, you refer them to the sites FAQ page and list of speakers page.
All of that is on the new website now.
I asked for a upgrade on a DIY speaker I built and the crossover failed on 1 of them waiting for my price now.
I certainly understand we some people would like to "upgrade" their vintage speakers, but is it really worth it?
For the amount of money you're going to put into them, the better option would be to buy new speakers. There are some really nice speakers out there that won't break the bank and will blow those old puppies out of the water!
Leave the old ones alone, and enjoy them for what they were.
Danny sometimes in the near future you may like to talk about VOICING the speakers, e.g. what is your opinion about BBC dip, or a gradual sloping down above 5khz to 20Khz by about 1-2dB, a general comment about voicing a pair of spkrs like a fashion for that era?
I have often wondered it was a (long term listening) tonal preference, simply the nature of cone materials used... to reduce "driver anomalies" in the crossover region or even possibly the crossover itself... A great question, I would love to hear Danny's perspective and possible solution for the phenomenon. I am thinking the 'classic' B&W 801 and or the LS5/9, I spent a lot of time with both (in the day) I am not sure if I could live with them today.
I might have to do a video on that one.
I watch just to see how your Mullet is progressing lol :)
Dude, you are so fair. This is a good video.
I am so very much looking forward to being able to purchase an upgrade kit for these SVS Ultra bookshelves. I am very impressed with the upgraded Carnegie CST-1's that I purchased from you.
Can't wait to see the ML tested
Recently discovered your channel and it's very informative and entertaining and interesting. Do you have videos on speakers you like straight from the manufacturer without the need to upgrade ? If you don't have such videos can you do one where you recommend different tower and shelf speakers at different price points and maybe do a video for HI FI and one for watching TV and movies but not necessarily a home theatre. Look forward to watching more of your videos .
Another great video Danny TYTY! I am glad to hear you addresses the realities of vintage speakers. Many of the 'classic' JBL speakers would be a no go for me due the particular front baffle and driver layout, as you politely state... the acoustic nature of the designs with "funky (my words) driver placement", sadly... there is no getting around it.
GR Research designed speakers are in my future. I am thinking / really liking the open baffle designs...
Another fun video. Thanks so much for your work Danny. I've enjoyed learning how to read the graphs with your clear and easy to understand explanations. Gotta quick question for you Danny. When you've designed and built a crossover, tested, tweaked, tested, changed out a component, tested, changed another, tested. looked at the response and all the curves etc. and are finally 'graph happy' What tunes do you like to play that you know well that you can just sit back and let that smile creep across your face as you realise the improvements you've made, casting all the technicalities aside and doing the 'pleasure test'? Distance is a problem for me to send you speakers so I'm considering one of your kits. Looking forward to that journey. Thanks again from NZ. P.S hairs looking good. You'd fit in well down here, especially if you're into a bit of rock.
Comparative listening has been done on each type of part, component, wire, etc. So I already know what to expect or what the result will be. And then the crossover is designed to achieve an accurate response free of errors.
And I am still old school. I do like to rock.
Love these vids .
Danny could make a list of all speakers he already went thru with upgrades and has all upgrade details in archives. Point is, these speakers may not have to be shipped to Danny and he may have a DIY kit just for you all ready with out shipping speakers back and forth...
At some point I will go through all the files and make a list.
This is a fascinating explanation!!!
Question # whatever make sure it makes sense as a VALUE PROPOSITION. Great video
I have a few vintage speakers with ferrofluid tweeters.. Could you talk a little on FF tweeters in the future?? do they dry out and lose their sound quality? TY
this is amazing work 💪so professional 👏🔝well done ✅
Hello Danny, your videos are quite addicting. I am wondering if you got the chance to see the inside of the B&W CM 10 s2 and if by any chance you have a kit for that. Thanks a lot.
Looking forward to part 2
These arnt bad speakers but they are charging a lot for them for what they perform. Maybe the new Evolutions will fix the shortcomings here.
I'd wager you could come up with a better crossover for the thousands of Advents available to play with. Especially the Smaller Advents which have the smaller baffle that you prefer.
Does your site have a searchable FAQ that you can refer people to for the repeated questions ??
Have you ever tested Definitive Technology BP 20 speakers before?
Geerladenlad I like that brand
I was interested in knowing more about the davanti bookshelf speakers. Did you have a video on them. We're they talked about in another video?
Do you ever use your ears, as opposed to measurements, to fine tune your speakers?
Ha! I would say always! My ears always get the final say. I don't care what the measurement is, if it don't sound right to my ears, I won't be happy with it. After all, I'm not trying to make the computer happy, it's my ears that need to be happy!
Hey, thanks for the reply...good to know :)
We have dry rain in Maryland
We call that snow down here, and we don't see it very often.
im thinking bying the same pair of speakers. so i really like to know the price for upgrading them !
Stay tuned.
Check out the other gentleman's comment in this video's comments list. Comparing the SVS to one of Danny's kits.
It seemed to be no contest.
I purchased and upgraded some Carnegie CST-1's from Danny. I was hoping the carnegies would be nearly as good as the SVS Ultra bookshelf, and I was quite surprised that they are significantly better, especially after-upgrade.
If I was not stuck with the "wife-aesthetic-decor look" of the SVS Ultras, I would probably not purchase them first, to then upgrade them.
@@dannyrichie9743 I'm tuned!
Have you ever tried their Center channel the ultra
Can one of you guys send Yamaha NS-F700 speaker to Danny please? Recently opened my to see what's inside and I was shocked. Really love the speakers tho.
Top infos, like allways, thanks a lot Danny
If I lived in the US, I would send you my Polk Audio LSiM 703s, they sound good to my aging ears but I know they could be better.
@@joanfrederick9176 am not buying into any crap, I have been into audio for 35 years and I have not owned a set of speakers that could not be improved, I know that because I have upgraded crossovers myself and I have listened to the difference with my own ears (and I don't buy into the placebo effect with upgrades) but there are things that I do not have the experience or knowledge to change myself, that is why I know someone like Danny could do what I am not able to do.
Don't be a shit disturber, what difference does it make to you if someone wants to upgrade their speakers? it is not your money we are spending.
Danny - I know I must be getting old when I spend more time watching your videos than listening to music - Joke for Danny = "If the earth is flat, why are most speaker drivers round?" - Could not resist the pun - Thanks for your vids
Do you ever provide before and after audio recordings for us to listen to?
No, I leave that to guys like Ron at New Record Day.
I've noticed that you said this speaker is 4 Ohms and you've said some other SVS speakers are 4ohms as well in different videos that I've watched. Why is it that SVS labels them as 8 ohm speakers?
What is your opinion on the Infinity range of speakers?
I have 2 pairs of Infinity R125s and I personally love the sound of them.
Just interested if you have seen or heard these and your thoughts about them
The audio Edd China.
My thanks to for Danny doing this, and to the person who sent him the SVS Ultra bookshelf.
I am very much looking forward to a follow-up "results" video.
I am hoping that "one day soon" , to be able to purchase an upgrade kit for my SVS Ultra bookshelves, so that they might sound nearly as good as the Carnegie CST-1's that I purchased (and then upgraded) from Danny several months ago.
Once you have finished upgrading a speaker, can you refinish a piano black cabinet?
What could be done on an Amphion Argon 3S? Supposedly very little number of filter parts.
The "wide baffle problem" on older spkrs. Does that also apply, with horn loaded tweeters and mids?
Hi Danny, just love your channel and attitude. Might be my path getting into kits one day, though might miss some skills.
Question for now: Buchardt S400 - ever offered a parts upgrade for the crossover network? Guess overall quality is ok but there was a limited edition with Jantzen stuff. Any plans?
I have not worked on that model yet.
Danny, I have got a pair of these SVS Ultra speakers and would like to get an upgrade kit once you come up with one? Please advise? Thanks.
Oh my God, you just blurted out my exact question! I have a pair of Wharfedale Valdus 400's!
What about a tweeter on the back on the box wired out of phase?
Better crossover components equals better sound, but as far as "very smeared sound" on those SVS's Bullshit. Maybe in comparison to another very specific speaker they may sound more smeared than the other..There are definitely improvements to be made but "appreciable" improvements needs to be kept in mind instead of just throwing money at it past the line of diminishing returns. Especially when attempting to surpass the limits and capabilities of the original design (drivers and cabinet). Not every little dip and hump in the response HAS to be tinkered with. Good sound can exist without the perfect flat line response. those dips and humps are sometimes the character of the speaker that you like and changing to far may lose that character. That said, Danny does definitely know what he's doing. Just keep your own goals in mind for your speaker.
As far as replacing drivers then you're basically talking about a different speaker. Companies like Polk have new drivers that are specifically compatible with old designs. Throwing any old driver (even a "better" one) in an old box is creating a completely different speaker altogether. That's when it's worth learning how to do some measurements and designing yourself. On old $100 speakers you're better off having fun with them while learning to do it yourself than sending it out and spending $500 on the "perfect" crossovers.
Kabuki's are just meant to be loud, high sensitivity fun. They are what they are. There are huge built in flaws with those designs and as Danny said, not worth attempting to upgrade.
Compared to any of our products that we have in house or compared to anything I am used to listening to, the SVS and most all other speakers in its class that use budget level parts have a smeared sound. That's just a given when using a bunch of electrolytic caps.
And if I have to design a whole new crossover to fix obvious issues then I'll address all the issues and make them more accurate across the board. And a hump in the response, or some woofer cone break up is never an appreciable character.
And the cost of the upgrade will come in well below $500. It will be about half of that. So fixing them will be quite the bargain.
@@dannyrichie9743 I understand. I was hyperbolic in some statements but was mainly trying to make 2 points the point of picking and choosing what one decided to upgrade. And that you can upgrade your speakers right out of the character that you may have liked to begin with, as I have found out first hand after spending $200 on upgrades to Polk monitor 7's and though ending up with much more clarity and resolution, not being exactly happy with the drastically different result because it changed the fundamental sound of the speaker that I liked to begin with . That's why I mentioned keeping in mind your own goals for the speaker. This does speak to the fact that these upgrades definitely can make a huge difference though.
Another great talk Danny. i'm trying to wrap my head around how much you can do to the inside of the "box" when upgrading. I mean I have a set of speakers I want to upgrade the crossover parts to (better parts, same specs), and I was wondering if adding stuff to deadning the box resonances would require any changes in the crossover? It's a ported box, and hardly any dampening materlial inside (that is visual). Is there any thing to watch out for in this regards?
Cabinet damping from a product like No Rez has no effect on the crossover design.
Hi Danny, love your channel so thanks for the great service you provide. I’m from Australia so naturally it’d be economically prohibitive to send you my heavy JBL4312 monitors. Being a fairly common speaker system, do you have an off the shelf upgrade for these? I understand that you don’t do that but I thought you may have done some in the past and might have a design that you know works. Alternatively do you know someone down here that you could recommend? Cheers.
I have not worked on that model.
@@dannyrichie9743 ok, thanks for your reply
Fuk yeah Danny
Hi Danny, I bought Super V's from you and love them. How does the Encore compare to the Tyler Acoustic speaker you designed? I want to buy a good pair of bookshelves for my son. Thanks in advance.
If the Encores are decked out with all of the upgrades then those two speakers are pretty comparable.
Great video! I noticed that you said the Ultra Bookshelf speaker was 4 ohm. But, SVS lists this one and all its Ultra speakers at 8 ohm. Is SVS misleading us with their official specs?
See the measured curve. It dips to 3.8 ohms.
He has pointed that out a few times well testing gear. My KEF speakers are labeled 8 ohms, but during his testing he noted they are 4 ohm.
@@dannyrichie9743 thanks for your response and all the videos. Really wish these companies would simply be truthful in their specs. It’s like they’re afraid to put anything but 8 ohm on the speaker.
Yes
Thanks for this video Danny! Is there a web page/list where can we find out what speakers you've already looked at? I'm interested in mods/upgrades for the ELAC uni-fi UB5.
I've already measured and tested that model. It wasn't worth it. There is hardly even any room in the box for higher quality parts.
@@dannyrichie9743 Thanks Danny. I imagine I'll be building some X-LS Encores somewhere down the road...unless you've got any new stand mount designs/kits in the works?
i have some genexa lx5 pros, other than compent upgrade what can be done? thanx
So do all the svs ultra bookshelfs have this same issue? Or is this due to the age on the speaker?
Glad you got your groove back! Stay salty!
Have you ever worked on the B&W 705 S2 ??? I’m curious what you would think / feel needs upgrading. Knowing B&W I would assume the crossover is prob in needing of upgrading the most.
I have not worked on that model.
Danny, can you do a vid on Tekton Double Impact speakers ?......as they have great reviews everywhere...but I don't know if I can trust the hype ...
Send one over and I'll have a look at it.
What are your thoughts about the JTR 212?
hi funny you mentionned wharfedale : ever worked on a whaferdale reva2?
Hey...I have some JSE Infinte Slope model 2's. I'd like to send em to you but they are 125lbs each! What can I do?
I understand that sending only one speaker can work.
Do you have a data base of speakers that you have previously „upgraded“, for example I have a pair of Tannoy DTM 10‘s that could very well do with some upgrade to cabinet damping/crossover/binding posts/wiring, unfortunately sending them to you from Germany would make no economic sense, I am a professional sound engineer and System engineer, I use AMFG SysTune for System analysis but I am not trained in traditional crossover design, only dsp based design, could I send you measurements and you then design a crossover?
My toilet needs to be upgraded Iwill send it to you thanks
When it gets here I'll let you know if it's full of crap.
@@dannyrichie9743 good come back
Why is the Audio Note AN-E one of the best speakers in de world and have a really wide baffle ?
Maybe they used a wide baffle to countereact a problem in the FR with that particular driver combination
yes they are but not the dodgy Chinese kits. gives you better excursion on the lower frequencies and placement against the wall prevents booming from the rear Port
Have you heard those speakers? I have. They do not sound that good.
@@dannyrichie9743 After building an early kit version of that design with the cheaper drivers and crossovers, and comparing them to the higher end factory built in the retailer’s show room, I’d be inclined to agree with you. Frankly, I’d probably take a pair of mid 80’s Boston A150’s over the AN-Es.
@@dannyrichie9743 Hi Danny, There are 18 variations of the AN-E, from affordable to the price of a house. Almost all models have the exact same cabinet, tweeter and driver, except for the few very expensive models that have an Alnico driver magnets.
The price difference is in the crossover, internal cabling and silver voice coils.
I really like that small baffle speakers have the 'perfect' shape and have less surface reflections, because of WAF and not having a huge speaker in de living room ..
But I would really like to understand why the AN-E sounds so incredibly to lots of people. I dont mean mainstream guys who like b & w crap, but really music lovers. I even believe that they make the cabinet resonate correctly and this has a positive effect on certain overtones perhaps. Are you sure they were listening to Audio Note speakers and not cheaper Peter Snell speakers, they look quite the same?
I got a wife that was manufactured in 1988 and here recently the high and midrange started sounding off at random , could something be wrong in her crossover and is there a fix? 😆 just kidding awesome video brother!
Nice!
Yes, there is a fix ... but this one is a DIY project for sure. You're right, get in there and fiddle with that crossover, sometimes it just takes a little bit of work to achievethe response you want.
Please, don't try to upgrade, ... you never know what you'll get or what it'll cost you! Also, don't worry about the enclosure, it's what's inside that counts.
I know, and she's right, Meghan Trainor says, it's "All About That Bass".
Please be mindful, everyone enjoys a couple details in the middle, but one needs to address both the 𝘵𝘰𝘱 𝘦𝘯𝘥 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘣𝘰𝘵𝘵𝘰𝘮 𝘦𝘯𝘥;)
Coming up on four decades with my beautiful vintage piece. And although Meghan Trainor is right, ... I'm also down with Harry Styles' "Watermelon Sugar"... yep, indeed.
All the best brother
@@FOH3663 thanks brother for the prompt reply and yes sir you were right just a little jiggling on the wires worked wonders!
P.S your response made our day as we love to joke and pick with each other because we're facing dark days atm and going through her battle with cancer has taken it's toll on her and just to see her smile makes all the difference in the world to us.
Thanks for this video. I'm interested as I own the SVS Ultra Bookshelf surround system.
hi , there just curious, you make a case against the wide baffle of vintage speakers, i don't have but Harbeth has a model 40.2 ................ 3 way with 12 inch woofer very wide baffle/ any comments on that , please
The tweeter is spaced unnecessarily too far from the mid, and there is too much surface area around the drivers.
What would you charge to evaluate a custom speaker including response curves?
I don't charge anything to test, measure and evaluate it. If it is big and requires a lot of un-packing and repacking then there will have to be a handling fee.
The one thing I noted you never talk about (or at least I never seem to notice) is what you're doing to the overall power handling of a speaker. Lowering the crossover point may make a speaker sound better, but it's making the mid/tweeter handle more power than originally intended. Thus, a 30 watt driver may have to handle 30% more energy than originally intended. It is possible to turn a speaker system rated at 200W into something that can only handle 120W before the tweeter or midrange blows. I hope you're informing all your clients of this. I would hate to have someone take it home and hook it back up to his 200W amp. Not to tell you how to do your job, but I certainly would like to know the new power handling capability of my newly modified speakers.
Of course, one could replace the driver, or add another driver, but then that is basically redesigning everything (as you mentioned).
Another thing I noticed is your criticism of ferrous components and "dental floss" wiring. While I agree with your criticism, I've never seen a capacitor or resistor that did not have ferrous leads. I wonder where you're finding caps and resistors with non-ferrous leads? As far as I know, such does not exist, anywhere, for any price. Good coils - no problem. Caps and resistors with non-ferrous leads - never seen it.
And then there's the 'dental floss' wiring. Almost every crossover PCB I've ever seen uses paper thin copper foil or very rarely silver. Just as bad are amplifiers, which usually have paper thin copper foil between the output components and binding posts. Even high end amps costing thousands of dollars often do this. That foil might be fine for low level signals before amplification, but I seriously have to question any stated commitment to audiophile quality (any company) when I find paper thin foil carrying an amplified signal within an amplifier. Even if we eliminate the paper thin copper foil from the amplified signal path, we are still left with the 'dental floss' leads of typical electronic components (which, with the exception of quality coils, are all ferrous), in both the speaker and the amplifier.
I agree with all your criticisms. But I'd like to know if you found components with robust non ferrous leds, and how you fortify or eliminate the paper thin foil in clients Xover PCBs.
Quite frankly, if I were to re-engineer a clients Xover, I would not even have anything soldered to the PCB. It would become just a rigid structure to hold everything in place. Leads would be soldered directly to each other, and high voltage caps often have more beefy leads. Unfortunately, I cannot think of anything to do about ferrous leads.
Firstly, the crossover points can often be lowered without changing or effecting power handling. And in many cases the power handling (from a technical point of view) can be greater if that drivers isn't playing as low. And yes, I mean that a tweeter can cross over at a lower point while not playing as low.
And all of the capacitors that we use are non-ferrous. The Mills resistors are non-ferrous as well.
Also, all of the upgrades we offer are point to point wired. So there are no PCB's in the signal path.
@@dannyrichie9743 You're just going to have to show me those caps with non-ferrous leads. I know lots of caps are, themselves, nonferrous. But I've never clipped the lead off a cap or resistor and not had the lead stick to a magnet. You don't even need to wreck a component. Just clip a quarter inch off and show it slide off a magnet. I'll be impressed.
Good to hear about your handling of PCBs at the speaker end. But everyone also needs to open up their amps and take a good look at what they bought. Or have someone qualified to do it for them.
@@jdlech Tinned copper or pure silver lead outs are actually standard practice in high quality components.
@@paulb4661 Got a link?
@@jdlech Sure Buddy, try www.jantzen-audio.com for example, their Superior Silver caps are brilliant, same goes for 8awg made to order flat ribbon air inductors and MOX resistors.
Kit for polk s15 how much
Danny, I've got a question about many of the vintage JBLs, like Kenrick sound work with. People are crazy about them and Kenrick do top quality restorations and modifications, the drive units are obviously great quality, but the cabinets break every rule in your design book...is it just that people who like the JBLs aren't concerned with imaging and colouration?
Those Kenrick JBLs represent both a collector's item, and a high performance loudspeaker. Individuals purchasing those loudspeakers want the classic visual aesthetic that comes with those big front baffles. Keep in mind most all of those were designed to be flush mounted in a soffit.
The large baffles mate well with flush mounting. Big soffited studio monitors don't resolve the perceived soundstage depth that home enthusiasts can generate with careful setup/placement well away from boundaries.
In the studio soundstage depth details are forsaken to eliminate SBIR via a coherent hemispheric wavelaunch into the room. Without the FR ripple of SBIR, a smooth frequency response results. Also higher output, lower distortion, linear/low compression dynamics even at realistically high playback levels.
Of all those gorgeous Kenrick offerings, I dig the big JBL cabinets, ... the blue baffled studio monitors, as well as the various iterations of the Everest line.
However, my all time fave is likely the various TAD equipped Kinoshita two ways from Rey ... those beautiful solid wood HF horns.
Still to this day, the great George Augsburger monitors (that are installed everywhere) mimics that same classic mtm approach to a simple, 15" two-way, high-output/low distortion studio monitors.
@@FOH3663 Thanks for the explanation. I too love the look of those JBLs, although I've never listened for real. I have to say though, many of the homes Kenrick install in hardly achieve "...setup/placement well away from boundaries." Some barely fit in the room! I guess in the end it's all a matter of personal priorities....
Why to knock the box with hand and use ears to determine if the box is resonating? Why not measure it with sensors and compare before - after results? This is only way to validate the solution.
Knocking on it with my hand isn't how resonances are determined. It is just a way of illustrating it during the video. It's more like a hand gesture.
Danny, I know you don't like laminated iron core inductors.
What do you think about the powdered ferrite core inductors?
Inductors with a core have their place and are fine when used below 200Hz.
@@dannyrichie9743 I've found the same, I've used them in the woofer segment of 3way speakers with good results.
What? You're getting wet rain there? I'm jealous, all we get is dry rain here :( .
Yeah, everyone else all around us got the dry (snow) and by the time it got to us it was all wet again (rain).
You recently upgraded the Klipsch RP-600M, have you ever upgraded the Klipsch RB -61 ii?
I have not worked on that model.
@@dannyrichie9743 Ah well, thanks.
So is that for one speaker or for a pair? Of the svs ultra bookshelf speakers
Pair
i would like to upgrade my small spendor standmount speakers with gr-research diy ones. but i can not seem to find a option i would like. a sealed box narrow speaker would be to my liking.
if i lived in the same continent i would get some drivers and send them over and pay for crossover done right, i do speaker design and play around with visuals, but stuck at crossover design.
The X-LS Encore can be used with a .5 cubic foot sealed box. And it's not too wide.
@@dannyrichie9743 that would be a good choice, but i rather have a m130 version and maybe a MTM configuration.
i was hoping there was a NX-Studio
with 5" woofer.
@@sudd3660 We have the A/V-3 and A/V-3S models that use the 16 ohm M-130 in an MTM configuration.
@@dannyrichie9743 i totally missed that option, guess i did not look at all the options, but i also have questions about using center channel as main speakers, is there any tuning to make the center version work near boundaries or otherwise home theatre oriented?
@@sudd3660 Center channel speakers like the A/V-3S can be used as left or right mains.
why don't use 8 gauge or more for speaker wire? and why don't use 10 gauge thickness for internal wire? (I see car audio really use thick wiring)
yes for the subwoofers when people have 1000+watts to the speaker. Typical home audio will have 100watts or less and normally you may he surprised to know that even with a regular 100watt per channel amp, it is only putting out a few watts normally.
Sound quality has little to do with the gauge of the wire.
when we buy the kits ... will they come the breadboard and pictures on how to build the circuit.
No breadboards are used. Parts are point to point wired and can be mounted to anything.
Danny can you do an upgrade for the CV XLS215's?
Are you serious?
@@jelugo77 yes very serious... Let the expert make a mediocre speaker system spectacular... anything is possible!
The author Tim Ferriss had the same problems with emails and calls. He hired a remote assistant to take care of all of that so that he could focus on the work he actually wanted to do. His assistant happened to be in India I believe, but their english was excellent, and the cost was less than half what it would cost here. Just a thought.
Finding someone to answer calls and emails is not to hard. Finding someone with the answers people are calling for is not easy.
@@dannyrichie9743 After watching a couple of your videos like this one, I could answer most questions. The ones that the assistant can't answer are the ones that get through to you.
Is there anyone from the phila. Pa area that can do what you do. Have 30yr old boston acoustics A-70ll ?
One would think that since SVS makes these $1200 dollar speakers in China, they would use good parts quality to start... These companies want to make these products on the cheap and still charge a fortune.