Your English is spot on. I love the simplicity of interfacing each module and your display interface looks good. Cutting board project mount is an ingenious and cheap way to display your projects
nice project. If you use a shunt and disconnect th resistor on the INA219 board, you can measure higher currents, if needed. You English is very good and easy to understand.
lovely - as always. You have a really good eye for GUI proportions. The interface design has one common look and feel. Excellent work. And for the modules: I will certainly take a look at that company
You never cease to amaze me with you creativity! In particular, your GUI ideas are very satisfying. I really think you consider putting together a book with some of your ideas and projects you have executed. I would also not be at all surprised if LILYGO were willing to sponsor you in such an endeavor. Give it some thought.
For me, the color theme is a no-brainer; The app in the original colors looks decent, but the intverted theme really makes it look beautiful (subjective opinion of course).
Dear Volo, your projects are top notch regarding your presentation, design and programming skills. Unfortunately, to answer your questions, they are useless like most little temperature, clock current etc. examples. Their main use is for learning purpose, but everybody is trying to shine in this area. I believe the culprit with most ytubers is, that their target group is not well defined. They get a board and than they make a non specific project for everybody, to market their product. As a person who knows where the rabbit runs, I suggest to think about a defined target audience. A niche market , and to build for this audience only. For example Air conditioner manufacturer and user. Thats a great niche audience with little to no competition. A/Cs come with remote control. You could use the touch lilygo to build an IR emulator, for a certain brand. Start with one brand, the libraries are out there. Control the A/C on a next level so it sets its temperature according to people home, time, daylight or night, adjustable via touch pad and cellular phone. That would be a useful project because the alternatives are none. Thats why I had to program an esp32 to help cool and heat a glasshouse for plants to automatically switch temperature settings according to daylight and night. Anyway, I believe, its always good to make good projects for a well defined small audience or target group with certain needs, than someone's skills will be even more appreciated.
I really like the LCD color look with the 7 seg numbers. Proper retro look. I hope you don't mind but I'm going to steal that colour for my tachometer project.
@@VolosProjects thanks! Your projects are fantastic and have been super helpful for understanding the Tft_eSPI library. Especially your tutorials on using sprites and putting sprites on sprites. Keep up the good work :-)
A product that might be interesting, for me, at least, would be a kind of "I2C breadboard", with connectors, and a couple of DIL socket holes... I can get interesting components in QFN, TSOP, and so on, and adapters to solder them easily, then header/socket pins, to mount them to a carrier PCB... Such a I2C breadboard could have maybe a dip switch for address selection, or a row of solder jumpers to connect to + or gnd for address selection of devices... Just a goofy idea... Hope that the description made a little bit of sense?
Nice job. It has a well designed multi-meter look. The i2C products are very interesting. I usually buy the similar products from Adafruit, but I will be checking solderedon out. Thank you.
I like that too. I wonder how they are selecting the port. I wonder if it's the same as some Adafruit shields that you have only 2 choices and have to more a resistor or short from one side to another, or if they have thought of some nicer way to select one of several. I'm going to have to look into those. Plus, I love the purple boards. LOL After all, board color is vital! LOL 😁😅😂🤣
Great video! Great project! I love the simplicity of it. Do you happen to have any projects with the ESP32S3 that displays the clock w/seconds updated from NIST, as well as local weather? I am struggling trying to find an example of it, although I know the code is relatively simple. I am a newbie!
Very nice project,my appreciation,but I have problems compiling his sketch ! Please specify where you got the library for the INA219 sensor, because I tried three libraries and they all gave an error, including the one from "soldered" ! Thank you in advance, for your support and understanding
I bought 2 of the SC01-plus boards. They're terrific! For 480x320 I think it's the best board out there and the supplied ST7796 is much nicer than ili9481. Worth getting the serial uploder for debug etc although you can do everything you need with the native usb but as the boot pin in is only exposed to a header connector and not a tact switch you could lock yourself out if using the wrong board settings.
Very cool training for us. ❤that you used a poti instead of push button 2 😂. PS, have you seen my T-touch housing for 3D FDM print? And as always, thanks for walking the talk and sharing all to us ❤
Excellent project as always. I am working on a similar project but with INA226. Do you mind sharing the graphical part of the code? The description doesn't have a link. Thanks
A very informative and well made video, I've really enjoyed it, Thank you ! I'm trying to use the T-Display S3 with the Ultrasonic Sensor HC-SR04 for a water level indicator. I couldn't find step in step instructions for this kind of project with the T-Display S3. would you have an idea where can I find a tutorial ? or even make one ? Regardless, Thank you again for the excellent videos ( subscribed ).
Now this I know! I use that very sensor as a water level monitor on my "humidifier" project. I'm using Arduino for that project, however, the code works exactly the same on ESP32. If you already have figured it out, then please just ignore my post. So this sensor just uses 2 pins to communicate on, plug VCC and ground. I don't use any libraries for them as you can work with the raw values and save memory. You can choose any pins, but I'd stay away from any PWM pins (just in case). I use this: echoPin = D4; trigPin = D5. For pinMode I set echoPin to input and trigPin to output. Sadly, I can't post actual code as the RUclips Algorithm just removes the comment. I get it, though. You can search for some sample sketches on how to use this sensor then mod to fit your project. In mind, I use an integer, in my project, I just call it pulseLenMicroseconds. This returns a time period in micro seconds of the echoPin variable. I forget why now, but I do convert that to centimeters (probably for easier math) So that var is distanceCentimeters and the formula is: distanceCentimeters equals pulseLenMicroseconds divided by 29.387 dividedc by 2 First as a test, I created variables to detect the FULL level and the EMPTY level so that I could adjust the sensor to fit the area it was in. That worked out so well that I actually added a routine, on the "setup" page, to be able to adjust these 2 numbers. Of course, on that page, I show the current 2 numbers and a level meter in real time. I also added 2 indicators on the display that would trigger when the water level was at the new setting(s). It turns out that this was an excellent thing to keep in the project. In this humidifier, with the fan and/or water pump running, of course, the water jiggles with little mini waves. That can affect the sensor. So to compensate for that, I did some things. For one, rather than constantly reading the sensor, I'd only read it every xx seconds (to be determined per project). Then, I have an "averaging" routine that first looks at the previous few readings and if the new reading is close, then I'd use that new number in the averaging collector. Basically, I have it ignore the read if the number is way off of the previous 1, 2, 3 or whatever I choose. This helps to stabilize the final output to the display. As I mentioned above, I made a "level meter" which is just a vertical progress bar with a graphic I designed that uses colors to indicated low to high in a variable color scheme. Of course, plain numbers can be used.... anything, really. I did add an "accuracy counter", which is created from the above numbers that are close to the previous few. Again, this makes the level meter stable and not bouncing all over the place. Anyway, that's a lot to read there. Sorry. LOL But I hope that helps.
Oh yes volos.. you're inspiring me again! I've thing I've struggled with lately is the s3 t-display and an i2s microphone.. have you managed to get one working with the tft display?
@Volos Projects i am determined to get it to work... it needs PSRAM so I am hoping to get my s3 to work. I've used an i2s mic with a standard esp32 but none of them work with this as they dont have psram
@@VolosProjects I bought a really old beat up Fluke 77-IV off ebay years ago for £70. Still the best meter I've ever had and going strong. Second hand genuine Flukes can be amazing value.
Your work on programming the display is *f a b u l o u s* I checked out Soldered, not bad, €5.95 shipping is a lot for one component, but seems to be "flat rate" for multiple components... Prices not "Chinese", but "not Chinese" is a very good thing. And, great work from you, as always!!
I like the illusion of a LCD display on a TFT display
someone may say that this is downgrade but i love old school look for projects like this. Thank you!
Seriously, your projects are next level professional!
Your English is spot on. I love the simplicity of interfacing each module and your display interface looks good. Cutting board project mount is an ingenious and cheap way to display your projects
Thank you Samantha.
Your English is good, and I really like that you speak slowly and clearly, very easy to follow!
nice project. If you use a shunt and disconnect th resistor on the INA219 board, you can measure higher currents, if needed. You English is very good and easy to understand.
my appreciation in your projects is mainly to the details of the content of the display and the way you display ;-)
congrats brother
lovely - as always. You have a really good eye for GUI proportions. The interface design has one common look and feel. Excellent work. And for the modules: I will certainly take a look at that company
Tnx my friend
Beautiful project. You are a master at interface design.
Patiance is key:) Thank you!
You never cease to amaze me with you creativity! In particular, your GUI ideas are very satisfying. I really think you consider putting together a book with some of your ideas and projects you have executed. I would also not be at all surprised if LILYGO were willing to sponsor you in such an endeavor. Give it some thought.
For me, the color theme is a no-brainer; The app in the original colors looks decent, but the intverted theme really makes it look beautiful (subjective opinion of course).
Dear Volo, your projects are top notch regarding your presentation, design and programming skills. Unfortunately, to answer your questions, they are useless like most little temperature, clock current etc. examples. Their main use is for learning purpose, but everybody is trying to shine in this area. I believe the culprit with most ytubers is, that their target group is not well defined. They get a board and than they make a non specific project for everybody, to market their product. As a person who knows where the rabbit runs, I suggest to think about a defined target audience. A niche market , and to build for this audience only. For example Air conditioner manufacturer and user. Thats a great niche audience with little to no competition. A/Cs come with remote control. You could use the touch lilygo to build an IR emulator, for a certain brand. Start with one brand, the libraries are out there. Control the A/C on a next level so it sets its temperature according to people home, time, daylight or night, adjustable via touch pad and cellular phone. That would be a useful project because the alternatives are none. Thats why I had to program an esp32 to help cool and heat a glasshouse for plants to automatically switch temperature settings according to daylight and night. Anyway, I believe, its always good to make good projects for a well defined small audience or target group with certain needs, than someone's skills will be even more appreciated.
So cute! And techie too! Thanks!
Thank you!
Really useful project and very well presented in your unique way …. Loving your English.
Very nice little project, looks like fun. Good job on the display!
Care, sasvim ti je dobar engleski.
GUI stvarno super izgleda.
"OLD school" LCD look is simply amazing, I love it a lot
Bravo i samo nastavi tako !
Hvala , i meni je ovaj dizajn drazi nego u boji.
I really like the LCD color look with the 7 seg numbers. Proper retro look. I hope you don't mind but I'm going to steal that colour for my tachometer project.
Hahah, feel free to do that.
@@VolosProjects thanks!
Your projects are fantastic and have been super helpful for understanding the Tft_eSPI library. Especially your tutorials on using sprites and putting sprites on sprites.
Keep up the good work :-)
I love it as always with your project videos. 👌👌
David i ekipa ne staju. Odlična prezentacija.
Hvala, istina, super su im proizvodi.
Well done as usual, very elegsnt interface.
A product that might be interesting, for me, at least, would be a kind of "I2C breadboard", with connectors, and a couple of DIL socket holes... I can get interesting components in QFN, TSOP, and so on, and adapters to solder them easily, then header/socket pins, to mount them to a carrier PCB... Such a I2C breadboard could have maybe a dip switch for address selection, or a row of solder jumpers to connect to + or gnd for address selection of devices... Just a goofy idea... Hope that the description made a little bit of sense?
Love your display design - as always beautiful and fast by using sprites 👌🎉
Nice job. It has a well designed multi-meter look. The i2C products are very interesting. I usually buy the similar products from Adafruit, but I will be checking solderedon out. Thank you.
I like that too. I wonder how they are selecting the port. I wonder if it's the same as some Adafruit shields that you have only 2 choices and have to more a resistor or short from one side to another, or if they have thought of some nicer way to select one of several.
I'm going to have to look into those. Plus, I love the purple boards. LOL
After all, board color is vital! LOL
😁😅😂🤣
Thanks for all your videos. I have learned so much from you. Enjoy your Kofi 😀 - Shawn
Thank you my friend, i will 😀
Hey! Great Project, thank You!
What do you think about pairing a game Controller to the T-Display. Would be a fun Project...
Great video! Great project! I love the simplicity of it. Do you happen to have any projects with the ESP32S3 that displays the clock w/seconds updated from NIST, as well as local weather? I am struggling trying to find an example of it, although I know the code is relatively simple. I am a newbie!
Thanks for another cool video. I hope that someday you do a video about reading 12v impedance / voltage from automobile sensors on an ESP32
Very professional looking GUI! As good as a commercial one. How many hours did it take to create this?
Very nice project,my appreciation,but I have problems compiling his sketch ! Please specify where you got the library for the INA219 sensor, because I tried three libraries and they all gave an error, including the one from "soldered" ! Thank you in advance, for your support and understanding
hello, thank you here is library github.com/RobTillaart/
Having two I²C connectors per module really makes things easier - it's a bus after all.
More great stuff (as always)!
Hahahaha!!! 😂 you’re there BEST!!
Green for day time and black backround at night, so you can keep both views
What about a bargraph voltmeter to compare 12 cells of a lithium battery?
Looks great>
Inspiring! Many thanks. And cool wooden board - don't tell your wife 😇
i hope she will not notice :)
Really cool project! really
Have you played with WT32 SC01 or SC01-plus boards?
I bought 2 of the SC01-plus boards. They're terrific! For 480x320 I think it's the best board out there and the supplied ST7796 is much nicer than ili9481. Worth getting the serial uploder for debug etc although you can do everything you need with the native usb but as the boot pin in is only exposed to a header connector and not a tact switch you could lock yourself out if using the wrong board settings.
i will take a look... soon i will recieve 480x480 board by makerfabs
What’s the 4 wire plug called?
nice
Very cool training for us. ❤that you used a poti instead of push button 2 😂. PS, have you seen my T-touch housing for 3D FDM print? And as always, thanks for walking the talk and sharing all to us ❤
stunning looking gui love it.
Are you a genius ?!
No, far from that
Excellent project as always. I am working on a similar project but with INA226. Do you mind sharing the graphical part of the code? The description doesn't have a link. Thanks
I added link for code, feel free to use it.
@@VolosProjects Thanks a lot !!
Is that a pos and neg wire in the ina219, or is it spliced into the ground?
Both circuit need to have same ground, that is gnd wire
@Volos Projects so it's acting as a shunt?
Nice video, keep it up, thanks :)
how to measure power of 220V devices?
It must be 4 wires to measure power more or less precise. Voltage needs separate pair.
A very informative and well made video, I've really enjoyed it, Thank you !
I'm trying to use the T-Display S3 with the Ultrasonic Sensor HC-SR04 for a water level indicator. I couldn't find step in step instructions for this kind of project with the T-Display S3. would you have an idea where can I find a tutorial ? or even make one ?
Regardless, Thank you again for the excellent videos ( subscribed ).
Thank you, that sensor is unfamiliar to me bu i will take a look.
Now this I know!
I use that very sensor as a water level monitor on my "humidifier" project.
I'm using Arduino for that project, however, the code works exactly the same on ESP32.
If you already have figured it out, then please just ignore my post.
So this sensor just uses 2 pins to communicate on, plug VCC and ground.
I don't use any libraries for them as you can work with the raw values and save memory.
You can choose any pins, but I'd stay away from any PWM pins (just in case).
I use this: echoPin = D4; trigPin = D5.
For pinMode I set echoPin to input and trigPin to output.
Sadly, I can't post actual code as the RUclips Algorithm just removes the comment. I get it, though.
You can search for some sample sketches on how to use this sensor then mod to fit your project.
In mind, I use an integer, in my project, I just call it pulseLenMicroseconds.
This returns a time period in micro seconds of the echoPin variable.
I forget why now, but I do convert that to centimeters (probably for easier math)
So that var is distanceCentimeters and the formula is:
distanceCentimeters equals pulseLenMicroseconds divided by 29.387 dividedc by 2
First as a test, I created variables to detect the FULL level and the EMPTY level so that I could adjust the sensor to fit the area it was in.
That worked out so well that I actually added a routine, on the "setup" page, to be able to adjust these 2 numbers. Of course, on that page, I show the current 2 numbers and a level meter in real time. I also added 2 indicators on the display that would trigger when the water level was at the new setting(s).
It turns out that this was an excellent thing to keep in the project.
In this humidifier, with the fan and/or water pump running, of course, the water jiggles with little mini waves. That can affect the sensor.
So to compensate for that, I did some things. For one, rather than constantly reading the sensor, I'd only read it every xx seconds (to be determined per project).
Then, I have an "averaging" routine that first looks at the previous few readings and if the new reading is close, then I'd use that new number in the averaging collector.
Basically, I have it ignore the read if the number is way off of the previous 1, 2, 3 or whatever I choose.
This helps to stabilize the final output to the display.
As I mentioned above, I made a "level meter" which is just a vertical progress bar with a graphic I designed that uses colors to indicated low to high in a variable color scheme. Of course, plain numbers can be used.... anything, really.
I did add an "accuracy counter", which is created from the above numbers that are close to the previous few. Again, this makes the level meter stable and not bouncing all over the place.
Anyway, that's a lot to read there. Sorry. LOL
But I hope that helps.
Is that an rgb display? If not could you please put the purchasing link in the description..
You can find link in description
Oh yes volos.. you're inspiring me again! I've thing I've struggled with lately is the s3 t-display and an i2s microphone.. have you managed to get one working with the tft display?
hi, no i didn't. I never used microphone , i am interested but i dont know what to make and what can be made.
@@VolosProjects Google speech-to-text api on an s3 = voice input!
@@chipko i think this is maybe to advanced for esp32, this is mor rpi project
@Volos Projects i am determined to get it to work... it needs PSRAM so I am hoping to get my s3 to work. I've used an i2s mic with a standard esp32 but none of them work with this as they dont have psram
Why don't you start tutorials
FLUKE: "Hold my beer".
hahaha :).... I always wanted Fluke
@@VolosProjects I bought a really old beat up Fluke 77-IV off ebay years ago for £70. Still the best meter I've ever had and going strong. Second hand genuine Flukes can be amazing value.
Your work on programming the display is *f a b u l o u s*
I checked out Soldered, not bad, €5.95 shipping is a lot for one component, but seems to be "flat rate" for multiple components... Prices not "Chinese", but "not Chinese" is a very good thing.
And, great work from you, as always!!
Thank you my friend.
Is it possible done with micropython?
I am not sure, micropython is realy slow for my needs