hi Chris great choice with the gel battery I would go for 9ah when you've got the battery and on the bike get yourself multi meter and see if its charging start the bike and take it up to about 3,000 rpm a you should be getting around 13.5 to 14 .5 and no more. now if that is what you are seeing that's good now with the engine still running turn the lights on and you should seeing about 13.5 or a little over but don't worry if its a little under the 13 volts it should be fine. anyway take care Chris ride safe, kind regards Adrian.
Hi Adrian, always love your comments and information sharing 😃. Thanks for the advice. The classic has been a journey of discovery for me, and someday soon I hope to be able to navigate my way through the niggles with ease. Having more experienced owners like yourself provide guidance always helps, so thanks again 🙂
Thanks for the advice mate. Yes I tried this and it seemed to help for the short term, but I think I’m getting to the crooks of it now. More to follow soon 😊
Is the bike on electronic ignition or is it still on the original magneto ?.. Remember that if it's still on the magneto the charging system and lights are completely independent of the magneto ignition.. From the symptoms I'm thinking the bike is probably on an electronic ignition and most of these run direct from the battery, so if the battery isn't up to the job or the charging system can't keep up with the demand from the ignition system (I had this problem on a Norton Dominator) the engine won't run for long.. If the bike is on electronic ignition I'd also look at the regulator/rectifier and lastly the ignition system itself maybe.. I hate electrical problems ,especially the evil 'intermittent fault' - Best of luck !..
Hi there, the bike is fitted with the Boyer Electronic Ignition module disguised in the SRM ignition housing so it looks original. I saw your other comment so will reply to that now 🙂
Bugger !.. Got to the end of the video only to find you'd sorted it !.. Could have saved myself a lot of typing there if I'd had the sense to watch it right through first !.. Oh well, never mind eh ?.. Glad to see you've got it sorted (probably, as long as the charging system is up to keeping the required charge in the battery ?..) I fitted a bigger Amp/Hour AGM battery on my Dominator which did help but the alternator still couldn't keep up with the demand from the ignition, especially if I needed the lights (your SR is on a dynamo of course) - LED bulbs might help in this regard too, they suck a lot less charge than conventional bulbs and you can get them now to fit the original British Pre-focus type bulb holders fitted to classic British bikes like your Super Rocket..
Ha! I always appreciate it when people take time out of their day to comment and provide suggestions and advice. So there's a final chapter to the story that will be coming out soon. I never initially realised how sensitive these bikes were to the charging system (being used to modern bikes) but I have certainly learned to appreciate it after the last year or so! I have fitted LEDs and tweaked another component and it actually seems to be running quite well now, and I am so glad because she's a joy to ride. Thank you for your advice😃. It is much appreciated!
@@CharltonsClassics Hello and thanks for trying to make my pointless comment seem a bit less of a waste of time ! To be fair to the original dynamo charging systems on British bikes, they were only ever intended to run a couple of low wattage lightbulbs and the occasional brake light or toot on the horn button. BSA had to address a slightly different electrical demand on A10s destined for Police use (like the one used on the TV drama 'Heartbeat') - The standard Police motorcycle radio was also a 'power-hungry' device and for obvious reasons they were constantly in operation while the rider was on duty - just like our modern electronic ignitions - but the dynamos just didn't cut the mustard. BSA got around this by adding an alternator to later model A10 Police bikes - these are a bit rare now but do pop-up for sale occasionally (often 'civilianized'..) and can be identified by the different primary drive cover (larger 'bulge' at the front end to accommodate the crank-end alternator..) - I believe that later model Police LE Velocettes also had uprated charging systems for the same reason.. There were very few bikes that even had indicators in the Magneto/Dynamo era and by the time they became more common Lucas had ended the manufacture of dynamos and magnetos altogether (around '63 or '64 I think, allegedly because they were too expensive and complex to make..) and had moved on to crank-end alternators which charged the battery AND powered coil ignition systems - Even this doesn't always help us now though, my Dominator has an alternator but until I uprated it to a higher output version it still struggled to keep up with the demand from the electronic ignition (In fact, with the main lights on I only had almost exactly 20 miles before the sparks blew out !..) I can't comment on newer systems like yours, but on at least some of the older systems (as fitted to my Dominator) the ignition doesn't even drag the battery down absolutely flat before it cuts the engine, this is because the unit requires a certain voltage to power it and won't operate below this level (even after it's engine had died my Dominator would still show dim lights and the horn would work..) There was little inbuilt excess charging on dynamo systems, obviously because nobody even envisaged the future development of electronic ignition systems at the time - the battery was just a buffer for the lighting - and as this is the case, as soon as you hang an extremely power-hungry electronic ignition onto the battery discharge you're already on the way to a flat (ish..) battery and a dead ignition, unless you've done everything you can to minimize battery charge usage or have boosted the charge from the dynamo or alternator and upgraded the battery..
@@jjrider6758 Thanks again for such detailed information. My BSA has the Electronic Ignition unit which SRM supply, which seems to be a low draw system that up until this point I had no issues with: www.srmclassicbikes.com/pre-unit-a7-a10/bsa-pre-unit-a7-a10-electrics-ignition The gearing on the dynamo has also been modified with the SRM solution to increase output by about 20% allowing a conversion to 12v electrics without the need for an alternator I did look into the Alton alternator as part of this faulty finding process and they aren't cheap! What I have learned is that the commutator on the dynamo is prone to oxidation and needs to be cleaned and 'polished' from time to time. I documented this throughout the journey and will compile another video at some point soon to share my findings with the world ha. Thanks again 🙂
Hi mate, so the bike has the SRM Electronic Magneto kit for K2FC Magneto body: www.shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/electronic-magneto-kit-k2fc-magneto-body It gives the appearance of being standard, but with electronic ignition and running 12V.
My name is Lemay nelson. I live in the state of Washington. North. West pacific coast. In my younger days I owned an Goldie club men. When I found it almost ready for racing. But the engine was stock. I found a shop. Strictly British brand. A lot of the mechanics Were racers. One mile dirt tracks. And half. Mile. I talked. With the owner about getting modifications done on it. After months of work. and so much modifications. The I had cosworth. Make a piston for her. Then I had a half throttle made for her. I had the gearing set high. To run on the American free ways. I ran the sanfransico. Oakland are. And the north coast highways. I road that bike for three years.
hi Chis your welcome anytime kind regards Adrian.
hi Chris great choice with the gel battery I would go for 9ah when you've got the battery and on the bike get yourself multi meter and see if its charging start the bike and take it up to about 3,000 rpm a you should be getting around 13.5 to 14 .5 and no more. now if that is what you are seeing that's good now with the engine still running turn the lights on and you should seeing about 13.5 or a little over but don't worry if its a little under the 13 volts it should be fine. anyway take care Chris ride safe, kind regards Adrian.
Hi Adrian, always love your comments and information sharing 😃.
Thanks for the advice. The classic has been a journey of discovery for me, and someday soon I hope to be able to navigate my way through the niggles with ease.
Having more experienced owners like yourself provide guidance always helps, so thanks again 🙂
Chris I had a dodgy battery do this. I would suggest getting a new one,
Thanks for the advice mate. Yes I tried this and it seemed to help for the short term, but I think I’m getting to the crooks of it now. More to follow soon 😊
Is the bike on electronic ignition or is it still on the original magneto ?.. Remember that if it's still on the magneto the charging system and lights are completely independent of the magneto ignition.. From the symptoms I'm thinking the bike is probably on an electronic ignition and most of these run direct from the battery, so if the battery isn't up to the job or the charging system can't keep up with the demand from the ignition system (I had this problem on a Norton Dominator) the engine won't run for long.. If the bike is on electronic ignition I'd also look at the regulator/rectifier and lastly the ignition system itself maybe.. I hate electrical problems ,especially the evil 'intermittent fault' - Best of luck !..
Hi there, the bike is fitted with the Boyer Electronic Ignition module disguised in the SRM ignition housing so it looks original. I saw your other comment so will reply to that now 🙂
Bugger !.. Got to the end of the video only to find you'd sorted it !.. Could have saved myself a lot of typing there if I'd had the sense to watch it right through first !.. Oh well, never mind eh ?.. Glad to see you've got it sorted (probably, as long as the charging system is up to keeping the required charge in the battery ?..) I fitted a bigger Amp/Hour AGM battery on my Dominator which did help but the alternator still couldn't keep up with the demand from the ignition, especially if I needed the lights (your SR is on a dynamo of course) - LED bulbs might help in this regard too, they suck a lot less charge than conventional bulbs and you can get them now to fit the original British Pre-focus type bulb holders fitted to classic British bikes like your Super Rocket..
Ha! I always appreciate it when people take time out of their day to comment and provide suggestions and advice. So there's a final chapter to the story that will be coming out soon. I never initially realised how sensitive these bikes were to the charging system (being used to modern bikes) but I have certainly learned to appreciate it after the last year or so!
I have fitted LEDs and tweaked another component and it actually seems to be running quite well now, and I am so glad because she's a joy to ride.
Thank you for your advice😃. It is much appreciated!
@@CharltonsClassics Hello and thanks for trying to make my pointless comment seem a bit less of a waste of time !
To be fair to the original dynamo charging systems on British bikes, they were only ever intended to run a couple of low wattage lightbulbs and the occasional brake light or toot on the horn button.
BSA had to address a slightly different electrical demand on A10s destined for Police use (like the one used on the TV drama 'Heartbeat') - The standard Police motorcycle radio was also a 'power-hungry' device and for obvious reasons they were constantly in operation while the rider was on duty - just like our modern electronic ignitions - but the dynamos just didn't cut the mustard. BSA got around this by adding an alternator to later model A10 Police bikes - these are a bit rare now but do pop-up for sale occasionally (often 'civilianized'..) and can be identified by the different primary drive cover (larger 'bulge' at the front end to accommodate the crank-end alternator..) - I believe that later model Police LE Velocettes also had uprated charging systems for the same reason..
There were very few bikes that even had indicators in the Magneto/Dynamo era and by the time they became more common Lucas had ended the manufacture of dynamos and magnetos altogether (around '63 or '64 I think, allegedly because they were too expensive and complex to make..) and had moved on to crank-end alternators which charged the battery AND powered coil ignition systems - Even this doesn't always help us now though, my Dominator has an alternator but until I uprated it to a higher output version it still struggled to keep up with the demand from the electronic ignition (In fact, with the main lights on I only had almost exactly 20 miles before the sparks blew out !..)
I can't comment on newer systems like yours, but on at least some of the older systems (as fitted to my Dominator) the ignition doesn't even drag the battery down absolutely flat before it cuts the engine, this is because the unit requires a certain voltage to power it and won't operate below this level (even after it's engine had died my Dominator would still show dim lights and the horn would work..)
There was little inbuilt excess charging on dynamo systems, obviously because nobody even envisaged the future development of electronic ignition systems at the time - the battery was just a buffer for the lighting - and as this is the case, as soon as you hang an extremely power-hungry electronic ignition onto the battery discharge you're already on the way to a flat (ish..) battery and a dead ignition, unless you've done everything you can to minimize battery charge usage or have boosted the charge from the dynamo or alternator and upgraded the battery..
@@jjrider6758 Thanks again for such detailed information. My BSA has the Electronic Ignition unit which SRM supply, which seems to be a low draw system that up until this point I had no issues with:
www.srmclassicbikes.com/pre-unit-a7-a10/bsa-pre-unit-a7-a10-electrics-ignition
The gearing on the dynamo has also been modified with the SRM solution to increase output by about 20% allowing a conversion to 12v electrics without the need for an alternator
I did look into the Alton alternator as part of this faulty finding process and they aren't cheap!
What I have learned is that the commutator on the dynamo is prone to oxidation and needs to be cleaned and 'polished' from time to time. I documented this throughout the journey and will compile another video at some point soon to share my findings with the world ha.
Thanks again 🙂
your engine has a magneto nothing to do with anything else in the electrical system?
Hi mate, so the bike has the SRM Electronic Magneto kit for K2FC Magneto body:
www.shop.srmclassicbikes.com/product/electronic-magneto-kit-k2fc-magneto-body
It gives the appearance of being standard, but with electronic ignition and running 12V.
My name is Lemay nelson. I live in the state of Washington. North. West pacific coast. In my younger days I owned an Goldie club men. When I found it almost ready for racing. But the engine was stock. I found a shop. Strictly British brand. A lot of the mechanics Were racers. One mile dirt tracks. And half. Mile. I talked. With the owner about getting modifications done on it. After months of work. and so much modifications. The I had cosworth. Make a piston for her. Then I had a half throttle made for her. I had the gearing set high. To run on the American free ways. I ran the sanfransico. Oakland are. And the north coast highways. I road that bike for three years.
Sounds like some great times in your youth with the Clubman 😀.
Thanks for the comment, great to hear your story 🙂