BMW E92 N54 (335is | 335i) Downpipe Install DIY
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- This video demonstrates my DIY install of ARM Motorsports 3" N54 catless downpipes on my 335is DCT. It is applicable to 335's with the N54. After install the engine response and turbo spool is quicker and the exhaust note is awesome! Dyno video with results to follow!
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Finally a video not done by a teenager with rap music over the top and blagging their way through it. Easily the best video I've watched on doing this, top work!
Thank you! Every video I've made I feel could have been better when I'm editing it but working on your own car is pretty raw and even when you've done something a couple times your gonna find a few curveballs here and there. Thanks for the feedback!
Best install video I've seen on these. Thanks, Amigo!
Thank you Jimmy! I appreciate the feedback!
BMW install wearing an Nissan beanie... lol! Joking, thank you for the DIY video!
Just keeping my head warm with something I no longer had emotional attachment too! Thanks for the feedback!
Mine go in tomorrow. Subscribe for the build series. Love the n54. Sound so good.
the placement on my downpipes was similar to yours and caused the o2 sensor to melt twice already, sounds really good though! Great Tutorial
How do you stop them from melting?.. defoulers or adaptors?
これらのナット you can use a 90° bing but I wouldn’t recommend it. ARM downpipes and some others aren’t meant to work with DCT so I ended up selling my ARM and buying VRSF. Fit perfect no more melting since
@@aviisway9642 dude ARM fitment sucks on DCT it fucked up my rear O2 and now it’s running shitty. Does VRSF DP have a DCT friendly fitment ?
@@Roy_Royster yes bro absolutely
I installed a new engine with new turbos and I put the arm catless on. I made a huge mistake to not put in my downstreams. So I had to go and take the steering off and try this method. I even had the downpipes aligned for the exhaust too. It’s impossible to get downstreams on the arm catless especially with the dct is too much in the way.
Thanks for the video, well explained. I’ll be installing mine soon once they arrive, any tips others than ones mentioned?
Not that I can think of but I'm sure something will pop up. Good luck with it and enjoy them!
For the second downpipe you can get the bolt super easy from the top of the car. And the hardest part of this whole install is the damn V Band Clamps. Those are the worst
Great vid thanks doing mine on right hand drive is there less room with all the steering being same side or will it be okay when undo the rack thanks
Hey Nathan, Sorry I didn't see your comment. I honestly don't know on a RHD car. I would imagine so since the shaft has to come down to the rack. If you've done it already please respond back so anyone else who might wonder will know. Good luck!
Nice video Eric.... Any codes with the hatless downpipes? I have heard some cars do and some don't throw a code....
I would expect it to throw a code if you aren't running a JB4 or MHD since the rear O2 sensor is gonna read all the unfiltered exhaust. I highly recommend a tune or JB4 (with backend flash, but that requires buying some MHD stuff too to install it) as you get way more out of the hardware upgrades if you have the flash to go with it. I have some dyno videos where I break this all down: ruclips.net/video/R4hRoVeSAqA/видео.html
Eric Akkerman Ok. Yeah I’m on a Cobb tune currently. Not sure if it would prevent a code or not. Guess their is only one way to find out. Lol.
@@eightpilot True! Bolt 'em on! I would expect that the Cobb tune disables the after cat sensor codes as well as many others that can get thrown once you start modding your car. They know what we plan on doing with these cars! Let me know what you find out.
Eric Akkerman I will! Thanks for the response...
So I talked to Cobb. They do not support catless downpipes because of emissions. So they suggested I run a set of their $800 catted downpipes, otherwise I would have a code every time I start the car. Lol. So I guess I will be switching to MHD this summer.
Is that the only thing you’ve done to your exhaust? I was almost going to buy 3” catless dp with a muffler delete setup but these seem loud enough haha
Yes. This car has the stock cat-back exhaust. The 335is has a different mid-pipe and sounds a little more aggressive but I recommend doing the DP's and seeing if you like it. It will make a big difference. The muffler delete can make it border on obnoxious (Budget Bimmers has a video where he added a resonator to his exhaust after doing muffler delete to tone it down a bit). I put a Miltek cat-back on my '08 335i when I had the DP's on there and it sounded real good too.
Any tips on getting v band on turbo I can’t seem to get mine on there I’m kinda stuck and don’t wanna get it towed because of a v clamp
Put the V-band on the turbo, then slide the downpipe up to it and work it around and on. You really just got to keep trying. Once you figure it out on one its a lot easier. Good luck!
Eric Akkerman yea I’m gonna try again it gets really frustrating kinda have to take breaks and go back it it .. but yea it’s definitely tricky
Man I having the same trouble putting vband back on
Hey im going to install a mini cat cel fix to pass emissions, how many 02 sensors are there and are they closer to the turbos or the other exhaust pipes? Also do you know if i could install the mini cats without taking off the pipes?
Each downpipe has 2 O2 sensors so a total of 4 but for what I think you would be wanting to do you probably only need to worry about the 2 post-cat sensors. I've never dealt with what your doing so I don't know about fitment but you can remove the stock post-cat O2 sensors without taking off the pipes.
Ok thank you, just wanted to know if id be able to remove the post cat sensors connection without having to take off the vrsf catless downpipes
How far can I move the steering rack forward? And do I have to worry about the steering shaft popping out ?
It wont move that far forward straight forward but by removing the bolts it allows it to slide sidways (laterally) and that allows the side with the cats to move forward a few inches as the right tie rod moves inboard and gives you room to work with. The steering shaft (coming from the steering column) is held in with a bolt and as long as you haven't removed this you don't need to worry about it popping out. You can double check this by following the shaft down from the firewall to the steering rack on the drivers side.
Hi how did you dealt with the CES light after removing the Cats ?
I have a JB4 on it and that handles it. You can also use MHD or if you look down at the comment by @Woogelt below he talks of a "mini cat cel fix" but I'm not familiar with it. Good luck!
What we really need to know is; can we replace de cats for the downpipes and have the car running normally even though with the CES light lit or will it go in to LIMP mode after a while ? 🥴
If we don’t do the MHD flash or use a JB4 of course 😉
How long did it take you from start to finish?
Now that I've done it a couple of times I could do it in 2-3 hours. Doing it the first time and fumbling with stuff I would say it took me around 4 hours.
@@eakkerman nice, that's not too bad.
I need that lift!
I love it! It was a chunk of change but it pays for itself each time I don't have to mess with driving the front wheels up on boards and using a jack to lift the front half way then the rear, then the front the rest of the way and be stuck under the car on jack stands with it 4 inches lower. Very sturdy and very quick.
Eric Akkerman that’s awesome! Definitely seems convenient. What brand is it?
@@jayb.4648 It a QuickJack (www.quickjack.com/). I got mine from ECS Tuning. (www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/quickjack/)
burble settings?
That was just stock. When I did put MHD on it I didn't get too aggressive with the burble settings.
Just so everyone knows if you bust out your primary cats there basically downpipes... Budget friendly
Still pinch and are restrictive though.