Using solar panels as a roof, 8kw solar array (follow up) utilizing the sun to be off grid
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- A bit more detail on how I built my solar array as a roof.
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This is the inverter I use now.
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These are the panels I would recommend using for a similar build.
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My favorite bus bars for a medium to large system
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These are the eg4 rack batteries I use from signature solar.
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This is where I got the heavy gauge wire for my system.
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Brilliant idea using bifacial panels, even if they're not illuminated from the backside, because they use a clear substrate and you get a built-in skylight from the gaps between the cells!
Exactly. And it actually works well this way.
We are building a patio using some of your building methods. Hope to be finished in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again for posting. Very helpful.
That’s exciting! Send me some photos when you’re done. I’d love to see them.
@@GavinStoneDIY I know right
Me too do a video@@GavinStoneDIY
@@markwaring622 I never heard back about their project. People get busy I guess.
I did same on front/back porches for my power shed. Works great.
Awesome! How many watts of solar do you have hooked up to your solark?
You have the best array idea I've ever seen. Multi-purpose
Add water collection....
I'm well impressed - a roof and solar - it also lets enough light through for a store - brilliant
Beauty of this. The panels stay cool on the back side. Which heat is your worst enemy...
It will help efficiency of the panel, making more electricity
Maybe even aircon the shed ?? Keep the panels even cooler..
@@andrewmcleod9312 I know of aircon that can connect directly to a string of 4 panels and run from them in daytime :-)
@@HansKeesom I meant for cooling the solar panels.
Thats gonna be some hot shed and panels on a summer day. For longevity and effiviency of the panels more ventilation would be adviced.
Simple. Functional. Bonus Skylight too!
Exactly!
My neighbor and I built a "solar shed" much like this, but used 2"X4"s for the perlins. Good job!
Thanks. Yeah that would be harder to do. It was much easier to screw from underneath this way.
Did you calk between the panels? Thinking of ways to make this watertight
@@josephkron4484yes, he did. Watch video.
Yeah, how did you make it water tight?
@Tumbleweed5150 Can you post a video of ur solar shed?
Lexel was a great choice for sealing between the panels. I worked for Sashco (the manufacturer) for 13 years. Its a great choice for that application. It should hold a great seal for many many years. They also make another product called "Through the roof" that is very similar to Lexel.
Thanks for the video. I am considering a similar build.
That is a beautiful shed.
It has certainly been great for the last 2 years.
25 years in the solar industry and every single panel manufacturers installation manual specifically warns against using wood for mounting solar panels. The biggest potential problem is that the expansion and contraction of the wood stresses the solar panel over time. And while visually, everything looks fine, the stresses over time cause micro fractures to the silicon solar cells, and they also cause delamination of the microbusbars that capture electrons on the top of the silicon cells. Again everything can look visually fine, but I inspected an array where somebody did a ground mount with wood and array performance had fallen off substantially after about four or five years. Also, because these panels were mounted with wood the warranty is void. Looks beautiful though, hope I'm wrong.
Sure hope you’re wrong. 🫣
@@GavinStoneDIY Me too! Again virtually no one ever reads the complete installation manual for a solar panel but one other notation that is extremely common is that any holes that pierce the manufacturers module frame outside of the pre-existing manufacturer holes, also voids the warranty. Thanks!
I assumed the warranty would be void because I screwed them down.
I'm coming up on 4 years on my wood mounted solar panels with no problems so far. I would definitely leave a gap between panels to allow for any expansion. Don't use mid-clamp mounts for frame grounding, use copper wire instead. I actually embedded a copper wire in the wood beam and there is a screw clamping hinge that makes contact. I also only mounted on the ends of the solar panels and not the sides. So there is room for expansion, and I would check for looseness at least twice a year.
Just put a piece of unistrut between the wood and the panels Bam problem solved
Thanks Gavin, you did a great job. Very creative build.
Really appreciate that. Thank you
Gavin Stone used Stone, haha. I had to say it when I thought of it. Hey, great build, I think. I love all your videos. Thanks a million
There definitely is a irony there. 😆 I do enjoy laying stone. So I suppose it was destiny. Thanks for watching.
@@GavinStoneDIY 🙂
Awesome job! Makes me think about what I wana do when I put up a new barn out back.
That would make a cool video.
So sensible to use solar panels for a roof or shade structures, pergola, car ports. Ground rack assemblies are so expensive and solar panels take up room.
Exactly. I know this isn’t for everyone. But it seems like a practical use for the panels.
I still really like this idea for making storage, carports, or sunshade. I've thought about using a solar panel as an awning over doors or windows as well, although I think it might be tough to make it look nice if that's a concern.
That’s true. I guess it depends on how you install it and the where it’s going to be.
look nice ? very important. ? it is cheap and handy. you dont need to buy roofing material.
and you get maximum panels on a roof this way.
That is a real homestead right there,
thanks for sharing :)
It’s a work in progress. Thanks for watching!
Looks great Gavin. Long lasting roof material.
But, can you walk on that roof if you have to do any future work etc.
@@sammaimas155 if the counter battens would be in standard dimensions of say 40cm it should be fine to walk on the frame of the panels, but unfortunately there is just not enough support under the panels to do so
Thanks for putting this one out! Looks awesome :)
Thanks man. It has been a great shed/array so far.
I am doing a carport right now with panels as the roof. I am going to give butyl tape a try for waterproofing the seams.
Yeah I considered that. I think it might make the gap sort of large. Maybe not though. Keep me posted. I’d like to see that when it’s done.
Also looking for ideas here so please keep us posted
That's a great idea, good job!
IKR
Very nice, thanks for the tour.
I made a smaller shed with this type of solar roof. I used bi-facial panels, curled copper pipe to provide hot water. Why isn't there off the shelf panels for roofing, walls, greenhouse, patios etc
That’s a good question. I think the concept is starting to catch on. So there might be more products in the near future that could help.
@@GavinStoneDIY hope so, plus better cheaper batteries, inverters, charge controllers etc ;0)
The current designs are derivative of the ROI for the array. In the past, when the cost of panels was more, the idea of using multiple zoned arrays was impractical. Using panels as walls would require multiple zones to avoid losses from shade.
yes and why aren't there panels that come with some kind of water coils on the back to make use of the panel heat
@@laus9953 it wouldnt be hard for a company to make a thin aluminium radiator back panel for PV panels. I used an air conditioner coil with an old pc water pump filled with car anti freeze. I'm working on creating a parabolic system using water as a secondary focusing lens. Should make the PV panels several hundred percent more efficient.
Perfect beautiful thank you
Props for the concept, but man, I'm pretty sure any professional in the waterproofing business will tell you the caulk is never intended or designed to be used as a waterPROOFing method. I dont know much about the characteristics of Lexcel, but im fairly certain that even the best cauling will fail at some point. A roof is normally designed for a 20-30 yr life expectancy (this is also about the expected life of solar panels) and caulking will simply not hold up, especially as your wood framing members dry out and move with the seasons. I would suggest anyone trying solar-as-sheathing&shingles try to to develop a proper metal flashing detail/system so that gravity can do its thing. You can always caulk after, as a way to reduce wicking, etc. But I dont believe it is wise to rely on caulk as the primary means of preventing water penetration.
All that being said.....if its just a shed or a car port, have at it!
I’ve actually got something I’m working on. A product that would work perfect for in between the panels. Hopefully I can make a video on it at some point.
Sashco (brand that makes lexel) sells a product in a tube that is actually for the extreme conditions a roof experiences. Lexel won’t hold up very long or as long as their product that actually designed for a roof.
Good to know. Thanks
Could also incorporate pool solar hot water bladders on the back side to buffer the summer temperatures, which will increase output efficiency and or also generate/preheat/circulate the hot water system tanks.
Yeah I had considered this. I wanted to make that a spring project this year but time got away from me.
I love it! I want to do the same.
Will be interesting to see how long the caulk lasts before you start getting leaks. Maybe flashing (pseudo gutter system) under the joints of the panels would last longer.
very good idea for roof. The only problem is panels are glued with no margin for dilatation, in summer panels rise temperature to 60 degree and expands.
I did read about that before installing them this way. But I haven’t had an issues yet.
Very nice Gavin!!
I am Derek btw from the event.
Thank you! It was a fun project for sure.
Don’t even think about putting solar panels on your roof, they need to be cleaned at least 4 times per year, I made a pergola as a nice sitting area, I have to get a ladder and 20 foot pole with brush and water hose to clean the panels, very risky at best for a bad fall. My total home electrical needs are provided by solar for the past 7 years, lost one panel in this past hurricane, but still have plenty of power to run the home.
I had power all during the hurricane, while others in my north Florida area didn’t have power for a week. My off grid power system has been a super investment. When I upgrade the system the new panels will have be ground mounted, for easy cleaning with a automatic cleaning system.
I love ground mounts. But I’ll be honest, I don’t clean any of my arrays. Well I did hose mine off a bit in the spring with all the pollen. Some of it may depend on where you live and the roof pitch.
Bad idea all around. Cheap it is. Yes. Comparing of a tarp tent this is a lot better. Wait until the caulking begin to deteriorate from uneven thermal expansion and contraction, or water starts to sip between the thin glass and the aluminum frames. Have you consider the snow load also with the flimsy boards spanning between roof rafters?
The weight isn’t really on the “flimsy roof rafters” as you referred to them. Those 1x4’s are called purlins. The actual weight is bearing on the 2x8 rafters.
The caulk may eventually deteriorate. It’s a pretty flexible material that isn’t dried out by sun exposure though. So it’s hard to say on the longevity. I’m not sure why the water go between the glass and aluminum. It’s a sealed joint.
Most panels stay what the self-supporting max is for panels. Mine are 18” on all sides.
Brilliant!
I am worried that the water will get between the frame and the glass,I’m sure the silicone would seal between the frames but does any water leak through the frame and the glass?
I just read through most of the comments, thanks for the info! Nice work!
There's a couple of companies in the UK that make panels that are also roofing; Viridian Solar and Solfit
I know Tesla makes a roofing shingle. And I’ve seen a few others now also.
The overhangs are severly stressed in storms and may be damaged . You should have made a steel frame over hang and inserted the panels in it .
These overhangs are about the same or even less as what you’d see on a ground mount array. Most all of them have 2 points of contact. And the rest of the panel is overhanging.
Bravo......on roof.......should leave sky lights in roof ......for access for washing panels........cheers
That’s an interesting idea. I may incorporate that into a future build.
They actually have hardware for car ports, patio covers that act like a gutter so you don't have leaks. They look really great, we do off grid, on grid and generacs and battery storage. GOT SOLAR
Yeah I’ve been wanting to get some of that material to review and tell people about. I just haven’t had time. It looks like it would work great.
Hello, nice work! But are you not affraid of leackage in case of rain??
No a small leak wouldn’t concern me. But it wouldn’t be difficult to fix.
I built such a roof on wood as a 50 sqm solid patio roof. 420 W JA solar modules, 24 of them. Fortunately, waterproofing was not the absolute goal. In the end, when it first rained, it turned out that the modules were intentionally permeable at the edges between the glass and the aluminum frame. The water then runs in the double frame in a channel to two drain holes at the bottom of the frame and out from there. This way there is never any water or dirt on the edge of the modules, as it acts like a flush. But you can forget about it as a roof. So you should check the structure of the modules beforehand to see how the water is drained away by this or that manufacturer. In the end, I hung a long polycarbonate rail under each connection, i.e. under each drain hole, and now the rainwater released by the modules runs through 5 gutters into a bed of gravel and the patio is dry.
My Jinko solar panels do not leak, so this isnt a universal issue AFAIK.
got my answer...thx!
I have been thinking about making a trailer/RV home using only solar panels - screw panels together with sealer/ adhesive-
Lots of old panels out there
Yeah you can get used panels for cheap.
Great info!
How’s this roof holding up? I’m looking at building a covered patio and thinking bifacial panels would be an excellent way to cover it and allow some light through on nice days.
It’s still holding up great! I would look into the rubber liners some suppliers are carrying now for between solar panels. In the next few months I’m going show people a video on that.
good video, do you have snow there in the winter and how do the panels hold up in the winter?
They do great in the winter. We usually get a decent amount of snow. 10” is the most we would see at a time typically.
Nice work. How difficult would it be to separate the panels if you ever have to replace one?
I wouldn’t imagine it would be that bad. I would probably just bypass the panel and leave it though.
A couple things puzzle me: 1) 0:24 How does water not run over the low end bottom edge, then drip inside the walls? Especially with that angle and no gutter. and 2) 2:37 What are the lag screws attached to? Through the wood... then what? I see no attachment points, rails or anything at all on the panel in that area. Looks like it's screwed right into the cells. Which it can't be, no?
Good questions. I think the reason why the water doesn’t run back in is the pitch on the roof. It’s at 7/12. Also the panels are much thicker then a typical roofing, so it starts from further up. I do have some drip edge to add under the panels. I’ve just never used it. To mount the panels I screwed directly through the 1x4’s into the panel frames. It holds them extremely well.
I'm doing a pergola. Did you pre drill or just let the screws tap into the panel frame? I wonder if rv eternabond on top to seal the seams would work? I've used on rv roofs and it's indestructible and lasts a long time for sure. It comes in many colors so if properly used it would look fine.
I certainly want it to be watertight.
@@houstonstarbuck for the screws I just let the tapping screws hold it. I didn’t need to pre drill.
I’m working on getting a product to show people that may work for waterproofing between the panels.
@GavinStoneDIY I'll be curious. I've thought about several ways to do it too. They all have various degrees of installation difficulty plus will it last long term. They include using sikaflex and eternabond...but your idea still has an easy and simpler solution.
I used to sell Eternabond. I think it would last about 10yrs or so. Then could be cleaned off and new membrane installed again. But for best results get the primer. They do have an aerosol can for primer.
Other option might be a polyurethane caulk. Super flexible, easy to install, and cleans off clean again like pulling a rubber band off something. It would also last about 10 yrs.
I am a roofing contractor.
Thanks
I'd be curious what the geenhouse effect would be like on something like this. The panels themselves can get upward of 140F in direct sunlight, and I know that some of the light can pass through the panels.
It’s hard to say. In an enclosed structure it would probably be hot for sure. With the open doors like I have I couldnt really tell the difference.
@@GavinStoneDIY I see. I didn't realize it was an open door build.
This is a genius idea, i need to reroof the garage and this would work brilliantly. Do you think aluminium glazing bars would be a good alternative as they'd have the integral rubber waterproof seal and capping section to hold the panels in place?
They sell some cool looking rubber channel for this purpose actually. I’ve just been too busy to make a video on it.
Did I miss it? How do you water seal gaps between the panels? Thanks.
I use a product called lexell. I would prefer a different method to share with people. I’m still researching an interesting product I want to show everyone. Hopefully I can make a video on it soon.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks, and that makes sense. I suppose if it had a groove perhaps you could instal a rubber/foam piece.
Also Didn't know about Lexell, I see that it can expand up to 400%. And see it used for marine applications. I think that that would be a good product for sealing the cracks. This sure beats a tesla roof as far as cost and simplicity...as long as you can seal it. Just the hassle of cleaning it off/gluing everytime you want to remove a panel. BUT, I have to admit, the INSIDE easy access to connectors is AMAZING! Please do a short followup to the seals. This is a BIG deal to me. I would love to put a system like this on our house! Thanks
@@i-changeus I’ll follow up as soon as I know something. You wouldn’t want to use this on a house. Aside from the waterproofing aspect you’d need to insulate the ceiling. It’s perfect for outdoor sheds like mine or even horse barns.
For a house you'd want to use a proper in-roof solar system like sandtoft, GSE, or viridion. This is perfect for car ports or garages though
@@GavinStoneDIYNot a fan of any kind of sealenat, since it can fail.
Would have done it with steel U-profil.
So that the water in between the panels flows down in the U-Profil.
And cut steeps in it so that the upper panels overhang the lower ones, obviosly only the frames.
have you considered using some type of a foil insulation on the inside of your roof to see if you get more power from your bifacial panels?
I think the foil would create too much heat. Possibly some white house wrap would help. I’ve considered that.
I wonder if Eternabond rv roof tape would work well for that? Thanks, enjoyed the video!
It may. But there is a rubber membrane product that has been designed specifically for this now. So that’s probably what I would recommend.
Great project, can you add link tot he solar panels you used? How many?
I can’t find the exact type I used anymore. I’ll add a link to a better producing panel that are roughly the same size. They are black instead of silver. Really fantastic panels. They should be back in stock in 2 weeks.
signaturesolar.com/aptos-400w-bifacial-solar-panels-black-up-to-500w-with-bifacial-gain-dna-108-bf10/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo
Its baffling that all new houses don't do this instead of wasting a chunk of money on dumb roofing then plonking panels on top of that anyway, not to mention it looks better.
Did you have any leaks by just caulking? I imagined It being a real nightmare to remove a faulty panel :) Probably why I would try to over lap them like tiles and use a flashing and caulk that on top of the gaps, far easier to remove if needed. Anyway your method looks the cleanest thats for sure and I would not consider doing a house any other way.
For houses it would be tough because they have insulation in some cases. Plus, like you mentioned it wouldn’t be easy to replace if one panel goes out. I’ve had 2 leeks. With this design you can caulk from underneath if you have any leaks. To be honest the leaks are so small I haven’t fixed them yet.
@@GavinStoneDIY Yeh if I ever do this I will try caulking metal strips over the vertical panel joins and over lap each panel with the one beneath for the horizontal. Then I just need to rip off the strips and unbolt from underneath to get a panel out.
I only watched to see the screw, I was thinking to conect them with a something like Y and some screw. My only questions are: what to put between(hope pexil works) or over the join and if the dilatate
I used a caulking material between. But they do make a rubber membrane now that would probably work well.
@@GavinStoneDIY wouldn't those rubber membrane's leak at the junctions and where they meet the mounting material?
@@bubmc it’s essentially a T shaped rubber that squeezes between each panel. So in theory it should work pretty well.
@@GavinStoneDIY Yes I've seen them but I'm worried about where they horizontal and vertical strips meet and where the meet the mounting clamps (that you didn't use in your video). Water will creep in between there I would say.
@ yeah good point. It would almost need to be mounted from underneath like mine. I keep meaning to get some of the strips to test and show everyone.
The only thing you might have done is add joist tape to protect the joists. They won’t last as long as panels without it.
I’ve had a couple people suggest that. I dunno if that’s an issue if they aren’t getting moisture on them. 🤷🏼♂️
How are they for snow load???
So far the largest show I’ve had of the roof was 9”. But I wouldn’t imagine it will have an issue. It’s basically built like a standard roof with panels as the plywood.
Thank you for your video. Do you have problems with expansion or contraction?
So far no issues with that.
Are the panels hailstone-proof?
All panels have a hail rating. I can’t remember what the diameter is for these panels.
I talk about it, but YOU DO IT!
Yeahhhhhhhhhhh!
Internet hi 5's
If one gets damaged, burned out but still impermeable, and you can't source a replacement of the exact same size, you will be forced to bypass it electrically and hope your inverter still has enough voltage from one less in the string.
Yes. Although the voltage wouldn’t be an issue really the way I have things wired. Also, panels have gotten so cheap now. If multiple panels fail within the next 10 years, I’ll probably just replace the whole roof.
"We squeezed the caulk in and any excess we wiped off with mineral spirits from the face"
Yes indeed.
Looks good! But let me ask, if you were building a custom shed, then why didnt you size it to fit your array.
I did actually. I wanted the large overhangs to get the water away from the building.
How much did you save vs a standard metal roof with panels on top of that?
Great build, do u know if the lexel caulking can withstand UV radiation over time?
It’s meant to yes. It doesn’t yellow over time like typical silicone.
How waterproof is it? What did you do to get it waterproof? Just the caulk or something else?
It’s had 2 places that drip since shortly after I installed it. I’ve just never worked on repairing those places. All I did was use the Lexell caulking material.
how did you seal the seams between the panels to keep them water proof and not leak through ?
I think I mentioned it in the video. But I used a product called Lexell between the panels.
Still working well for you, Gavin?
Still very happy with it. Still has the original 2 small leaks I never bothered to repair. Still making me lots of power!
What about thermal expansion of aluminum frame?
I had heard about that before I installed the array. But I haven’t had any issue at all. And I’ve had plenty of cold and heat.
And just that lexel caulking is enough to make it watertight?
Between that and the pitch the roof is on yes. It’s still doing great.
But like I’ve mentioned to other people in the comments, there is a rubber product that’s designed for going in between the panels. So I would recommend that instead. They just didn’t have it available when I built my solar roof.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for that information. I consider building somehing like this in a tropical country where it sometimes rains heavily. Pitch and rubbers should do the job. Combined with a opening at the top for hot air to escape.
I was worried about the expansion in the heat. No place for the panel to move and putting stress on them. Just built a 10 x 60 solar mount. I left a gap just for that.
I’ve heard people mention this. But I haven’t had any issues.
@@GavinStoneDIY25mm between panels in the Uk
Hi, I build a carport with it, but they started bending due to expansion
It could be the lumber you used. It’s hard to say really. Mine have not bent. Then again mine are also bifacial panels. And the frames are pretty strong.
@@GavinStoneDIY Hi bud, live in South Africa near the sea. I used galvanized steel...Suppose, lumber would have been the best. Don't expand.
@@mariusverwey2125 ahh I see. That could be the issue. Also galvanized metal can have some negative reactions to the aluminum frames on the solar panels from what I’ve read.
i have been thinking about doing something like this. how long have you had yours up? any problems with expansion / contraction dues to heat and cold? i live in n. idaho and we get 100+F to -20F in one year so that was what worried me. also with the peak overhang... i would be concerned with winds around here the way you supported the hanging panel with steel. a good wind storm here would rip all those peak panels right of the shed.
I’m in Virginia. So we get some fairly good temp swings. But nothing like you have. I haven’t had any issue with expansion. It’s been up for right around a year now. Every region I’m sure is a bit different. I would just use a little less overhang if that was a concern. And you could easily tie in an L bracket with screws into the steel to hold the edges of the overhanging panel.
@@GavinStoneDIY i should probably give a 1/8" space between them for expansion. that caulk that you used... does it stay flexible? if so it would flex with the frames. i would also flare out the bottom of the frames and use clamps to allow for some movement due to temp. changes. this was a great vid though and i appreciate your answers as well. you have given me much to think about 🙂
@@AlsanPine I'm pretty sure that the Lexel stays flexible. I believe the product literature states that. It's basically a rubber compound.
Snow load?
That would depend on your region. We don’t get too much snow in this area. But this is essentially built like any shed or house roof, so I don’t have any issues here.
which state was this done?
how robust would it be against storms?
this ilooks very ineresting however i live in the hurricane belt.
I’m in Virginia. I suppose it could as sturdy as someone designs it. The higher the winds the more reinforcement.
@@GavinStoneDIY thanks!
You need tie downs bad weather will likely eventually cause problems with that overhang
Ground arrays have overhangs like this usually. There are typically only 4 clips that hold panels on a racking system. The rest of the panel is overhanging. So it would be the same concept here.
Please be honest about how long it takes for leaks between those panels. I give the caulking two years, max. I wish it were so simple, but when you look at the design of real in-roof panels, it clearly isn't :-(
I’ve gone over the leak issue in my other video. I’ve had 2 small leaks. They can be fixed easily by caulking the underside. But, like I mentioned in the video, I’m sure there is a better material that could be used between the panels.
@@GavinStoneDIY I doubt there is. All seals become brittle and fail over time. There's a reason tiles overlap, but that isn't really an option with solar panels. The aluminium frame needs to become a tiled surface to support run off, but retrofitting existing panels is difficult (very difficult).
@B B one viewer mentioned a T shaped seal to go in between the panels. That sounded like a good idea.
@@GavinStoneDIY yes, it is, and it would be adequate with a single row of panels. The main difficulty arises from the cross join where vertical and horizontal edges combine. If the horizontals are placed first, and the verticals layered like a tile, it can "sort of" work, but water's a bugger. It will *probably* extend the life of the seal, but not by much.
I have a couple ideas of how a system *might* work without relying excessively on sealant, but proper in roof panels are just so much better, and they aren't so much more expensive.
@@BB-sm8eynot much more expensive? Can you please elaborate? I priced the Tesla and a few others... The cheapest I could find was $4.50 per watt..... I just bought some panels recently brand new at 32 cents a watt.... Which means $10,000 worth of panels I just bought would be $140,000 usd and almost 200k from tesla.... Maybe a quarter million dollars isn't a big deal for you but it's huge for me. Where are you finding these deals please? I love that bifacials allow you to essentially make a filtered sky light
Solar panels loss efficiency when they get too hot, under 25-30 degrees solar panels will have maximum efficiency (I don't know what 25-30 degrees is in the American measurement, sorry).
So the reason why there is always an air gap between a roof and the solar panel is to that air can move and the panel doesn't overheat.
So with this video, I'm wondering if these panels are overheating and loosing efficiency.
In this application the panels are the roof. So the entire space underneath is an air gap. If anything it would be more efficient in that respect. Basically the same as a ground mount array.
Nicely done! How did the lexcel caulking hold up?, any leaks?
It’s still holding up great. I have 2 leaks. But I’ve had those since the install, I just never bothered fixing them.
I would like to see that after about 9-18 months of expantion & contraction. Those panels need room to move. I really can't see that caulking holding that seal.
It’s around 27 months now. And still going strong.
I suspect that a much larger array could use an expansion joint in the center, say every 3 panels. But as long as the system can expand from the edges out, I can see it being toooo much of a problem
In addition to that, the expansion and contraction stress can cause what is known as micro fractures in the crystalline solar cells and everything looks perfect but performance declines rapidly after about 4 to 5 years.
Will a project like this meet any qualifications for government funding? Also, how long until you get your money back for time and materials? Thank you
Not sure on the government funding aspect.
It would be tough to figure out payoff for just panels and structure. I know my system as a whole would be less than 10 years. Especially considering the rising energy costs.
interesting project, thanks for sharing 🙏
On this subject, I am going to add more solar on the roof of my new studio building in addition to my ground mount 15 modules and 5 on the solar shed.
I want to use the panels (modules) directly on my rafters so that they fit flush with the rest of the roof cover and also so that I can inspect cables from the inside if and when.
I want to alternate between OSB with shingle and PV modules so that they will look just like big windows blending better with the rest of the roof.
My main concern is about coking and thermal expansion and contraction during different seasons. Have you noticed any problems in this respect on your building perhaps?
I haven’t had any issues with expansion or contraction. But my advice would be to locate the rubber gasket they sell for this purpose now. I need to get my hands on some to show people.
@@GavinStoneDIY 🙏Thanks, I was not aware that there was a purpose rubber trim for them, I will search for it 😉
What worries Me is no perimeter frame with Hi wind gusts
@@ralphgregory7616 yeah it’s tied down to the frame itself. The overhang is actually pretty typical of a standard solar array.
Im trying to convert my home to solar. My power company is a foreign entity using unethical business practices; it's also coal produced. BUT I'm finding it difficult to navigate and understand how much power I can produce with panels... it's almost like the information is intentionally complicated.... and I learn everything and DIY everything... not my first rodeo with teaching myself new concepts.
We need this information simplified across the board.
DC power can be a bit confusing at first if you’re used to the concept of AC.
I agree though, the simpler the better for people. This isn’t actually overly complicated on the surface. And
Most people could do a solar install if they research for a couple months. But just like any other subject, you can do a deep dive and discover a lot of much more complicated and interesting facets.
If you want to DIY, I'd look at an isolated, island system designed by Electrodacus for offgrid use. It is the solar charge controller and battery managment all in one. Inexpensive and avoids much of the silliness of most modern retail options. His pdf manuals will show you one way, and later you can marvel at how odd other systems are designed and how costly they are.
Good job! I'm assuming no leaks so far?
2 leaks. But they are easily fixed from underneath. I still think some type of rubber would work good.
How hot inside in the summer?
It’s warm for sure. Although any inclosure is hot in the summer without air conditioning.
How did u waterproof between panels to make a dry inner space
I added a sealant called lexell.
And how long has it held up ?
R U using bi-facial panels?
Yes indeed.
HOWdy G-S-DIY-H, ...
Thanks
COOP
...
are those bifacial PV panels?
Yes they are bifacials. I got them for a good price and they have a strong frame. But unfortunately I don’t get a lot of benefit from the bifacial aspect because of the shading underneath.
On the other hand they shed light underneath which is nice.
@@GavinStoneDIY ah ok... that would be my second question., if the other side of the panel produces power.
@@brainardsolite in that shed not so much. On my other bifacial ground mount array it does produce from the backside as well.
If you have a ground mount array, I would highly recommend bifacial panels.
@@GavinStoneDIY thank you very much
how has caulking the panels worked out? has expansion been an issue, any leaks. im going to do the same thing but with Iron Ridge racking and camo clamps
I have 2 minor leaks that started shortly after install. I just never bothered repairing them. I would try the new rubber channels some companies sell for this purpose now. That might be a good option.
why did you use bi-facial panels for the roof instead of regular panels?
i bet being translucent it lets some light in so it is easier to see inside. or maybe he just got a really good deal on bifacial panels
Cul was correct. I got a good deal on bifacials. But I’m actually glad I used them because they do indeed let a lot of natural light in. And if they happen to make just a smidge more wattage also, that would be great.
Whos the architect, whats involved to get permits,, Jim
I designed it myself.
Any leaks, or is everything water tight still?
Still water tight. Well, I did have one leak shortly after the install. I just haven’t bothered to seal it because it doesn’t affect anything.
Me smoking a blunt at 3 am: "can i just make the whole roof out of solar panels?
RUclips: we got you
@@TrentJ202007 😆
Sometimes the best ideas come the most unlikely of places. I think I read that in a fortune cookie one time.
@GavinStoneDIY I like that response, new subscriber today my friend lol
How did you ground the panels?
I bought grounding lugs off Amazon and screwed them into the panel frames underneath.
I love this. How has this held up? Its it still water tight? caulking not cracking? I know they sell a UV resistant plastic T you can wedge between panels that might help with cracking of joints. Also think high heat gasket maker might might work very well.
The caulking has actually held up great. Yeah they make a nice rubber product for this purpose now. So id probably going to that route if I do it again. But overall we still love what we have.
How much did this cost ya?
At the time I believe the lumber and metal was around $2,800. I can’t recall what the panels cost exactly, but they’ve dropped dramatically in price since I bought them a few years ago.
@@GavinStoneDIY thanks, hoping one day I can do this myself!