I had a Kia Optima that was a GDI and I wasn't aware at the time that this needed to be done. I had 130,000 miles on it and it got the same mileage as when it was brand new and the power was still there. Never a rough running engine or anything like is being discussed. I traded it on a Mazda CX-5 and this cleaning is all I'm hearing about. Every time I go for an oil change the dealer wants to sell me a induction cleaning for $160. So now I am trying to learn.
I had the same problem running a K&N the oil from the air filter was misting on the mass air flow sensor. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed regular filter never had the problem again.
I have 41k miles on my 2016 cx9 and still don't feel that hesitation nor weak throttle response. I've been using this fuel additive called archoil 6200. I just replaced the spark plugs and the old spark plugs looks really good at 40k miles. I assume the fuel additive I put every fill helped out.
The only problem with this is with direct injection, no fuel ever touches the back of the valves to clean it. The carbon deposit on the back is mostly oil from the Crankcase vent valve. An oil catch can is helpful here.
@@milvolts1 Shorter oil change intervals and a catch can. Corksport has one as well as others. Set a drive distance of no less than 20-30 miles will help with as well, fully warm the car every time you drive.
Using a high-quality syn oil and not extending your change intervals helps too. Also longer drives at moderate constant RPM. If the car does a lot of short drives that the intake runners and valves don't get a chance to get up to full operating temp then carbon buildup will be a problem inshort order.
@@Killobyte Yeah id be willing to bet sometime between when you got that car and after the cleaning in your driving habits changed. It could be completely unexpected like your favorite gas station changed suppliers or additive packages, or they had bad gas. I have a 21 Turbo 3, very similar engine to yours, I've found that my car is EXTREAMELY sensitive to the quality of gas. My car has 43K on it now and recently I got a few bad tanks of gas in a row, gas station ended up having water in their tank. My car which never exhibited any issues before started to have hesitation, an unstable idle at start up, and just down on power. I tried a bunch of in the tank cleaners and nothing helped. I found this GDI cleaner, ran a can through and BAM car runs great again. So this carbon build up seams to happen very quickly if the conditions are right.. or wrong depending on how you look at it lol. I did buy a catch can from burger motorsports which is supposed to help. its about $200 if you'd like to go don that route.
This is actually a great comment. Short intervals will cause issues. I tell people to try to extend short interval drives to about 25-30 miles if possible. Also allowing about a minute before turning off the ignition helps with preventing unburnt fuel from contaminating oil. - Also, not all 5w30 SP/GF-6A oils are not created equally. Some are much better than others with regards to oil shearing at higher temperatures. A higher HTHS 5w30 will suit the engine much better than lower one - especially in warmer climates.
So at 10K I shouldn't be concerned about carbon chunks scoring the cylinder or fouling the cat or oil...especially if I change it immediately after...correct?
See if you can find the vacuum hose going to the brake master cylinder. You can spray the CRC into it from the master cylinder side if it pulls vacuum from the intake path.
There are logical concerns that if used as regular maintenance, ie, 10k intervals, it's safe on turbo GDIs, but as a fix for heavily gunked valves, there is risk that a chunk of carbon deposit will dislodge and collide with the spinning hot side of the turbo - just like person getting a stroke from a dislodged clot. Also, author correctly avoided the MAF by the air cleaner, but there is also a boost pressure sensor on the passenger side of the intercooler and a MAP sensor on the intake manifold. Unsure if the product is safe on those sensors.
Thank you for the very informative video. I'm also planning to use the crc with my ford ecoboost where we have the almost the same engine. I'm just worried spraying it directly thru the turbo instead the throttle body. How did your engine perform after the procedure?
No it didn’t smoke. I think it had fairly minor deposits but enough that it didn’t run smooth. I should have installed an oil catch can a long time ago, gonna do so soon.
Not well at all, the this crc might have helped with the valves. You want to be able to access the throttle body, clean the butterfly valve with a toothbrush and carburetor cleaner with the engine off and butterfly in horizontal position. Then use the crc intake valve cleaner.
@@6atlantis Thanks for the reply. The product used here cleans the turbo, throttle body, and intake valves. Yes you can clean the throttle body directly using a throttle body cleaner (never use carb cleaner on a throttle body) and get better results, but this worked fine for my needs.
Good video! I have used this successfully on a Tahoe a few years ago. I noticed you have a K&N air filter. I have a new 2019 CX-9 (also from Nelson) and was wondering if it made any difference in mileage or power? I would appreciate your thoughts.
I appreciate the meticulous verbal explanation. But the actual visual presentation was lacking. They didn’t show how they inserted the hose and their hand was blocking the view of the camera.
I realized my comment may have come off harsher than my actual feelings. I think this is one of the best videos on this topic I have come across. I have 47k miles on my Mazda 6 and, until recently, I was ignorant to what GDI is and that my vehicle (and my wife's CX-5) had it. I have purchased CRC but was hesitant as to how to apply it, specifically WHERE to spray it. I was anxious about spraying it near the MAF but wasn't 100% comfortable I could identify and access a vacuum tube. This video has allayed my hesitation.
@@Killobyte you are losing valuable filtration by using that knN. The tiny amount of flow gain isn't worth the $&#&# the filter is letting in your engine.
How often do you pump one of those cans in there. Just you personally. Bubba, take a look at that clean engine! On the outside I mean. Did you have the old lady revving the engine for you 😄I bet y'all take good care of all your stuff. Man, I would've loved to have seen the actual before and after results you got. What do you think about the engineers designing these engines to run a bit hotter as a means to keep the carbon from accumulating on the valves? If I were to bet, actually, I would and will bet that your issue was a crusty throttle body. The back of the inlet mechanism accumulates a lot of crud in these. I think if you take a look at your preventative maintenance schedule that throttle body cleaning occurs a couple times pretty early, and at regular intervals throughout the life of the engine. Your #1 piston probably got a nice little rinsing as well. Those 3 and 4 cylinders obviously didn't see any of it. I'm dying to crack open my intake manifold and get a look at mine, sitting at about 120k miles rn. Cheers brother! Stay clean 🤝
At 37K, you had deposits
Good chance. Thankfully the CDC fixed the issue and at 51k now it's still good.
I can't imagine any of the spray gets to valves having to go through the turbo and the cooler. How can one spray it closer to the intake manifold?
I had a Kia Optima that was a GDI and I wasn't aware at the time that this needed to be done. I had 130,000 miles on it and it got the same mileage as when it was brand new and the power was still there. Never a rough running engine or anything like is being discussed. I traded it on a Mazda CX-5 and this cleaning is all I'm hearing about. Every time I go for an oil change the dealer wants to sell me a induction cleaning for $160. So now I am trying to learn.
I had the same problem running a K&N the oil from the air filter was misting on the mass air flow sensor. I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed regular filter never had the problem again.
same
Can you post a videos on how to replace the spark plugs, replace the coolant, and replacing the thermostat on your CX-9 please?
Normally I'm doing jobs like this alone so I use some 2x4 to brace between the seat and gas pedal
I am most likely to be in the same situation. "Where do I have a brick lying around?"
I have 41k miles on my 2016 cx9 and still don't feel that hesitation nor weak throttle response. I've been using this fuel additive called archoil 6200. I just replaced the spark plugs and the old spark plugs looks really good at 40k miles. I assume the fuel additive I put every fill helped out.
Thanks for info!
The only problem with this is with direct injection, no fuel ever touches the back of the valves to clean it. The carbon deposit on the back is mostly oil from the Crankcase vent valve. An oil catch can is helpful here.
@phillm156 great point, would you happen to know of a video that shows how it's done? Thanks
@@milvolts1 Shorter oil change intervals and a catch can. Corksport has one as well as others. Set a drive distance of no less than 20-30 miles will help with as well, fully warm the car every time you drive.
Using a high-quality syn oil and not extending your change intervals helps too. Also longer drives at moderate constant RPM. If the car does a lot of short drives that the intake runners and valves don't get a chance to get up to full operating temp then carbon buildup will be a problem inshort order.
Never did figure out what the actual cause was. The CX-9 has almost 80k on it now and it hasn't happened again.
@@Killobyte Yeah id be willing to bet sometime between when you got that car and after the cleaning in your driving habits changed. It could be completely unexpected like your favorite gas station changed suppliers or additive packages, or they had bad gas. I have a 21 Turbo 3, very similar engine to yours, I've found that my car is EXTREAMELY sensitive to the quality of gas. My car has 43K on it now and recently I got a few bad tanks of gas in a row, gas station ended up having water in their tank. My car which never exhibited any issues before started to have hesitation, an unstable idle at start up, and just down on power. I tried a bunch of in the tank cleaners and nothing helped. I found this GDI cleaner, ran a can through and BAM car runs great again. So this carbon build up seams to happen very quickly if the conditions are right.. or wrong depending on how you look at it lol. I did buy a catch can from burger motorsports which is supposed to help. its about $200 if you'd like to go don that route.
@@mikel9656I have noticed 2.5 being very sensitive to quality of gas as well.
This is actually a great comment.
Short intervals will cause issues. I tell people to try to extend short interval drives to about 25-30 miles if possible. Also allowing about a minute before turning off the ignition helps with preventing unburnt fuel from contaminating oil.
- Also, not all 5w30 SP/GF-6A oils are not created equally. Some are much better than others with regards to oil shearing at higher temperatures. A higher HTHS 5w30 will suit the engine much better than lower one - especially in warmer climates.
did you change the oil right after?
those deposits wont go and fill the intake manifold & valves ?
No, they will break off the valves and go out the exhaust. It is possible that the cat will catch them if there are big enough pieces.
I’d be willing to bet that the oiled K&N is soiling the down stream sensors and TB. The solvent spray would of course reduce the buildup.
I plan on doing this annually on my 23 cx-5 sig turbo, only drive about 6-8 k a year.
Completed procedure on m 2023 cx-5 signature turbo. Did at 9,400 miles and will do annually. Inserted in hose forward of Mass air sensor. No issues.
So at 10K I shouldn't be concerned about carbon chunks scoring the cylinder or fouling the cat or oil...especially if I change it immediately after...correct?
I wouldn't think so.
@@Killobyte And just so I don't screw my Mazda3 up - is there a better access point besides spraying into the air intake post Maf/pre turbo?
See if you can find the vacuum hose going to the brake master cylinder. You can spray the CRC into it from the master cylinder side if it pulls vacuum from the intake path.
Thanks for the video.
There are logical concerns that if used as regular maintenance, ie, 10k intervals, it's safe on turbo GDIs, but as a fix for heavily gunked valves, there is risk that a chunk of carbon deposit will dislodge and collide with the spinning hot side of the turbo - just like person getting a stroke from a dislodged clot. Also, author correctly avoided the MAF by the air cleaner, but there is also a boost pressure sensor on the passenger side of the intercooler and a MAP sensor on the intake manifold. Unsure if the product is safe on those sensors.
I can confirm that it is safe on the boost and MAP sensor. Didn't throw any codes on my turbo CX-30.
@@gosuckacatDid you spray pre turbo?
Es seguro hacer eso?
Podrías dejar el link o enlace de donde puedo conseguir tal limpiador.
Agradecería tu respuesta, saludos y gracias
Canntsee it getting the the valves going through a turbo and inter cooler.
Thank you for the very informative video. I'm also planning to use the crc with my ford ecoboost where we have the almost the same engine. I'm just worried spraying it directly thru the turbo instead the throttle body. How did your engine perform after the procedure?
It corrected the issues and the vehicle now has 65k miles and still going strong.
I can use CRC on my cx7 mazda MZR 2.3 DISI turbo ??
Most likely but check the label on the can.
Would this work also with seafoam?
I'm not sure if seafoam would work or not.
Did it smoke? Since if it smokes a lot then your valves must be really clogged up by carbon.
No it didn’t smoke. I think it had fairly minor deposits but enough that it didn’t run smooth. I should have installed an oil catch can a long time ago, gonna do so soon.
Can you use this product on a diesel engine
The product I used is for gas direct injection
Would you use this product on a 100k miles '14 Santa Fe with the 2.0t?
As long as you follow the directions on the can, I think it would be fine.
Does this cleaner contain any chemical that will damage the o-ring or the rubber?
That I don't know.
I’m more worried about chunks of carbon hitting the turbo and cat
@@tomwalker996 the unburnt fuel can fix that.
@@shsaint how does that work?
How long did emptying the can take
It's been awhile but I think it was about 3-5 minutes. I remember it took long enough that I needed to switch fingers pressing the button.
How well does this clean the throttle body?
I didn't look at the throttle body as it's buried pretty good but it seems to have cleaned it pretty well. The SUV is still running great at 50k.
Not well at all, the this crc might have helped with the valves. You want to be able to access the throttle body, clean the butterfly valve with a toothbrush and carburetor cleaner with the engine off and butterfly in horizontal position. Then use the crc intake valve cleaner.
@@6atlantis Thanks for the reply. The product used here cleans the turbo, throttle body, and intake valves. Yes you can clean the throttle body directly using a throttle body cleaner (never use carb cleaner on a throttle body) and get better results, but this worked fine for my needs.
Good video! I have used this successfully on a Tahoe a few years ago. I noticed you have a K&N air filter. I have a new 2019 CX-9 (also from Nelson) and was wondering if it made any difference in mileage or power? I would appreciate your thoughts.
Steve S. I can’t say it made any noticeable difference, but I like that they last the life of the car (just have to clean them once in awhile).
@@Killobyte Thanks!
I appreciate the meticulous verbal explanation. But the actual visual presentation was lacking. They didn’t show how they inserted the hose and their hand was blocking the view of the camera.
I realized my comment may have come off harsher than my actual feelings. I think this is one of the best videos on this topic I have come across. I have 47k miles on my Mazda 6 and, until recently, I was ignorant to what GDI is and that my vehicle (and my wife's CX-5) had it. I have purchased CRC but was hesitant as to how to apply it, specifically WHERE to spray it. I was anxious about spraying it near the MAF but wasn't 100% comfortable I could identify and access a vacuum tube. This video has allayed my hesitation.
Youre real problem is that K n N.. the filtering efficiency is pretty bad and your MAF is slowly getting ruined
I had already tried cleaning the MAF, it made no difference. My guess is that the throttle body was dirty and the cleaner did the trick.
@@Killobyte you are losing valuable filtration by using that knN. The tiny amount of flow gain isn't worth the $&#&# the filter is letting in your engine.
It says to use the brake booster hose to spray it in...
Kuma Makanui those are the advanced directions, secondary is to go through the throttle body, air intake if you can’t get to T.B
"The question is, how soon will your intake valves need cleaned and will a simple spray be enough to make it run well again?" two questions ✌
Every 10K.
Every 30-50K maybe take a look with a borescope to see if it needs manual cleaning.
How often do you pump one of those cans in there. Just you personally. Bubba, take a look at that clean engine! On the outside I mean. Did you have the old lady revving the engine for you 😄I bet y'all take good care of all your stuff. Man, I would've loved to have seen the actual before and after results you got. What do you think about the engineers designing these engines to run a bit hotter as a means to keep the carbon from accumulating on the valves? If I were to bet, actually, I would and will bet that your issue was a crusty throttle body. The back of the inlet mechanism accumulates a lot of crud in these. I think if you take a look at your preventative maintenance schedule that throttle body cleaning occurs a couple times pretty early, and at regular intervals throughout the life of the engine. Your #1 piston probably got a nice little rinsing as well. Those 3 and 4 cylinders obviously didn't see any of it. I'm dying to crack open my intake manifold and get a look at mine, sitting at about 120k miles rn. Cheers brother! Stay clean 🤝