Someone's developing an affinity for shiny new metal objects! I work on a lot of cruddy rust buckets and it's always nice to reassemble with shiny new parts. That clutch assembly is really nice, it should make quite a difference.
I had the same problem with my T56- I had to support the engine from above and loosen the motor mounts to tilt it down enough to line everything up. Got it in, but it was a real 🐻
Had similar clearance problem on fwd 90' Mitsubishi Eclipse 4g63 NA swapping to beefier bulkier Turbo model 5 speed transmission and clutch, what blessed field day I had on that one!
As a few others have mentioned, try raising the front of the engine to tilt the assembly. That may gain you the clearance you need to line everything up without breaking out the BFH.
Hey bud, just put a board and Jack under the balancer and tilt the engine back just a little. When you remove transmission the engine is tilted back from the weight, once the trans is off it levels out and makes it harder to put back on.
Why the new flywheel? i thought the neat feature of these swap flywheels was that you can just replace the friction disk? i apologize if this is not the correct term. excellent content, keep up the great work.
Jack the the engine oil pan to lift the front of the engine a bit so the engine tilts backward. It should give you the clearance you need to wiggle the trans in place.
Loosen the mounts and jack up under the nose of the engine. Should give you the angle needed without beating on the body. Making long guide pins/bolts for a few bolts on each side also helps quite a bit. Yeah wrestling a trans around for a few hours sucks and is tiring.
Ok so I’ve installed a lot of twin and triple disk clutches and I at first would struggle like a bitch trying to get the input shaft to slide in. (Not saying Iran isn’t touching the tunnel) but what I learned was take your clutch guide pilot tool and stick it in all the way and take a set of calipers and measure to the throw out fingers and make sure the pilot tool is exsactly in the center Hence lined up perfectly strait. And watch the difference of sliding in the trans. Yes that clutch is longer and all that. But trust me. Those plastic tools to not just get it perfect enough to just slide in. If you get it dead center. It will glide right in no problem. After I started using this method I could have the trans back in the car in less than 5 mins compared to struggling for 2 hours trying to figure out why I can’t get it back in.
Sloppy Mechanics bad ass, was just wondering what my options could be, planning on doing a 6.0 swap on a 2012 s197 v6 car. And trying to figure out what all I’m gonna need
They make a advance adapter to swap out the bell housing witch in turn will give u more clearance..if I can find it again I'll share the link with you all
@@SloppyMechanics hahaha. If you decide to get a real 2 post look at twin busch. They have good quality 110v model for like 1600$ shipped . I have one.. and just got a 10k atlas also.
Otherwise I'd say go Direct Lift. I have the Bendpak 10k lbs asymmetric low pro lift and purchased it because it's supposed to be higher quality and made in the USA. Well BendPaks are now made in China, just like Direct Lift. The lift motor was made in the US (with a big sticker proclaiming such). If I had to do it over, I'd save the $1k and go Direct Lift, but it is definitely worth hiring a qualified installer for a 2 post!
This is why I always cringe when RUclipsrs (mostly the channels saying “mint”) don’t think autos are “real” cars... whatever that means. I had a manual trans behind a high power sbc. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Never. Again. A manual is cool and all for the ladies, I guess, if that’s who you’re trying to impress and your RUclips following, but replacing a clutch as regularly as you change oil and the constant beating from stop and go traffic just isn’t cool. I’d rather drop the $1,200 on a great converter and trans go kit and have longevity rather than having a “stick” to impress people. “Sticks” are also slower. By. A lot. It’s proven. I’m tired of hearing that argument. BuT yOu WoNt PuT aS mUcH pOwEr DoWn WiTh aN aUtO. Shut. Up. I’d rather have an auto giving up maybe 5% more at the wheels (on a dyno) than slip city, and getting destroyed by autos putting down ~300 less at the wheels because an auto blows the tires off and I shift as slow as Paul Walker (RIP). MANUALS SUCK!
Wow Matt all the content. Ty to you and Jamie for helping keep people sain! The G is badass!!
Someone's developing an affinity for shiny new metal objects! I work on a lot of cruddy rust buckets and it's always nice to reassemble with shiny new parts. That clutch assembly is really nice, it should make quite a difference.
I can literally smell this video.
Hey @Bendpaklifts Matt needs a sponsor!
imagine how fast matt could build a car with an actual lift
I had the same problem with my T56- I had to support the engine from above and loosen the motor mounts to tilt it down enough to line everything up. Got it in, but it was a real 🐻
Had similar clearance problem on fwd 90' Mitsubishi Eclipse 4g63 NA swapping to beefier bulkier Turbo model 5 speed transmission and clutch, what blessed field day I had on that one!
You warped the disc. Impressive
It's not age that is getting to you, it's children LOL. I have four little ones and I feel like 80 years old after playing with them.
Thank you Matt, you always cheer me up. :)
As a few others have mentioned, try raising the front of the engine to tilt the assembly. That may gain you the clearance you need to line everything up without breaking out the BFH.
That boi has the blues man. Keep being brutal! 👍
Nice no more diaphram clutch
BBQ clutch !
Nice cant wait for 11's to get painted. Got that same harbor freight jack
Hey bud, just put a board and Jack under the balancer and tilt the engine back just a little. When you remove transmission the engine is tilted back from the weight, once the trans is off it levels out and makes it harder to put back on.
Good episode Bob.
Why the new flywheel? i thought the neat feature of these swap flywheels was that you can just replace the friction disk? i apologize if this is not the correct term. excellent content, keep up the great work.
It’s because I went with the twin disk
*Hammers involved: Trans tunnels most affected!* ;-)
Jack the the engine oil pan to lift the front of the engine a bit so the engine tilts backward. It should give you the clearance you need to wiggle the trans in place.
You crack me up Matt your a funny farker
Paul Mc Brien Matt’s sense of humor is appreciated
That transmission isn't too terrible to swap. I had to rebuild my Carbonetics Carbon Triple Disk.
If were using potato chip analogies how about wavy lays for the old clutch!! You got all the good out of that one. 👍
Loosen the mounts and jack up under the nose of the engine. Should give you the angle needed without beating on the body. Making long guide pins/bolts for a few bolts on each side also helps quite a bit. Yeah wrestling a trans around for a few hours sucks and is tiring.
It doesn't. A buddy has the swap in a 370. Motor out is the only good way to do it.
Can't loosen the mounts and let it droop back? That's weird.
Thanks for the video ...a lift would definitely help you even a cheap o ....I’m almost 40 and don’t crawl under vehicles anymore lol
Ok so I’ve installed a lot of twin and triple disk clutches and I at first would struggle like a bitch trying to get the input shaft to slide in. (Not saying Iran isn’t touching the tunnel) but what I learned was take your clutch guide pilot tool and stick it in all the way and take a set of calipers and measure to the throw out fingers and make sure the pilot tool is exsactly in the center Hence lined up perfectly strait. And watch the difference of sliding in the trans. Yes that clutch is longer and all that. But trust me. Those plastic tools to not just get it perfect enough to just slide in. If you get it dead center. It will glide right in no problem. After I started using this method I could have the trans back in the car in less than 5 mins compared to struggling for 2 hours trying to figure out why I can’t get it back in.
I know we missed out on some epic profanity that would have made the video of this whole situation so much more epic.
Maybe he could reenact the profanity or release the transcript for us.
Wonder how many f-bombs were said upon install lol.
10,000
@@SloppyMechanics It's the new FB10000 clutch right?
Try putting a lil block of wood on your balancer and Jack it up a bit, might tilt your engine back enough to stab the trans..👍
Nope it's a bitch in the ls 370 swap. Tunnel makes hard.
Is there a safety lock on that thing? Nice little lift!
Yes there is.
What trans are you running?
Cd009 that came with this car
Sloppy Mechanics bad ass, was just wondering what my options could be, planning on doing a 6.0 swap on a 2012 s197 v6 car. And trying to figure out what all I’m gonna need
loosen up the motor and tilt it back some Matt.
Chu can dooo it!
Mmmm toasty
Looks more like Pringles.
whoah !! motion sickness ! is it just me ;(
i'd be so GD pissed in that situation, not smart enough to realize that the geometry for install changes...
They make a advance adapter to swap out the bell housing witch in turn will give u more clearance..if I can find it again I'll share the link with you all
Tasty
Get a real 2 post. Or a max jack 2 post.
I had planned on having one without this lockdown
@@SloppyMechanics hahaha. If you decide to get a real 2 post look at twin busch. They have good quality 110v model for like 1600$ shipped . I have one.. and just got a 10k atlas also.
Otherwise I'd say go Direct Lift. I have the Bendpak 10k lbs asymmetric low pro lift and purchased it because it's supposed to be higher quality and made in the USA. Well BendPaks are now made in China, just like Direct Lift. The lift motor was made in the US (with a big sticker proclaiming such). If I had to do it over, I'd save the $1k and go Direct Lift, but it is definitely worth hiring a qualified installer for a 2 post!
Hope you don't cook food like you fry clutches😜
This is why I always cringe when RUclipsrs (mostly the channels saying “mint”) don’t think autos are “real” cars... whatever that means. I had a manual trans behind a high power sbc. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Never. Again. A manual is cool and all for the ladies, I guess, if that’s who you’re trying to impress and your RUclips following, but replacing a clutch as regularly as you change oil and the constant beating from stop and go traffic just isn’t cool. I’d rather drop the $1,200 on a great converter and trans go kit and have longevity rather than having a “stick” to impress people. “Sticks” are also slower. By. A lot. It’s proven. I’m tired of hearing that argument. BuT yOu WoNt PuT aS mUcH pOwEr DoWn WiTh aN aUtO. Shut. Up. I’d rather have an auto giving up maybe 5% more at the wheels (on a dyno) than slip city, and getting destroyed by autos putting down ~300 less at the wheels because an auto blows the tires off and I shift as slow as Paul Walker (RIP). MANUALS SUCK!