This is the third video in the series on how to make 318 mopar heads flow hopefully well enough for a 360! Some techniques are provided. I am in no way an expert.
Porting can make such a difference that some racing classes forbid it. David Vizard is one of the experts that has influenced my approach to porting and polishing heads, intakes and even the headers or exhaust manifolds. Good to see your method.
Thanks Steven. David is a wealth of knowledge. I’ve been talking with Andy Wood about some port work I’ve done and how to improve it. I’ve grown quite a bit since this video.
Thanks Keith! I recently watched David Vizards videos on porting. Really show’s the science of it and what places are beneficial. I plan to port the 383 heads just like he did the vortec heads in his videos. Thanks for watching!
Killer work man, you've made a great porting series. Super helpful for those who don't know how deep or where to take metal out from. If you get bored you should do mine for me so I don't have to do them lol
I wish! I have these on my built 360, from the engine build series. I am going to run it in the 1/8th someday to see what it can do. There's also a chassis dyno thats within 30 minutes of me that I want to hop on.
Thanks brother. It’s an Ingersol Rand grinder. The bit were my dads old snap on’s from the 80’s. My recent bits purchased were from eBay for around 30$ each.
@@JustMoparJoe thanx bro..i might get brave an try to copy your technique... just picked up a 360.. from a 78 truck.. not sure what heads i have..yet..
This is a great educational video! Thank you...! Nowadays, its really not worth the time spending 30+ hours porting a set of heads. You can get aluminum heads with valve train that flow much better for about 2k.
Thanks Craig! I ended up getting my 360 valves put into these heads and new comp springs installed for 340$ out the door. I wish they would have been some x or J castings, but I was definitely on a budget. Hopefully I picked up 10 hp and some good practice in the process. 👍🏼
I know garage builders like you n me cant afford it, but it would be nice to have before-and-after flowbench and dyno results. Or at least before and after ET and mph in the qtr mile.
David Lewis thank you! I have these heads on the 360 build that I just completed. The run video for it comes out Friday morning. It’s going to be stout. I have seen lots of speculation that 318 heads on a 360 will be out of rpm at 4,000 rpm. We shall see. I plan to swap my Indy x rhs heads to this block one day and buy some aluminum heads for my 408.
Daveo Oldham all questions are welcome! I’d still consider myself an amateur. To your question, I opened the windows up to the size of my intake. It is an old 340 torker. The ports in my intake were smaller than the blue gasket from felpro. Hope this helps. I’m finally doing a series on a 360 build if you want to check it out 👍🏼
Awesome,Just wanted to confirm that.I have the blue gasket from felpro its for a 360/340.And I thought that is quiet a bit of meat to remove from a 318 head.Yesterday I had my first attempt at this,I gasket matched the 318 gasket to the 318 head and I gotta say It was a lot of fun.Today Iam moving to the bowl area I have so many questions for you,thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Daveo Oldham I based alit if my knowledge on the forabodiesonly.com post. The guys there actually had a flow bench, and he provides good photos too. Mopar to the front!
joe, i've always read to leave the intake walls somewhat rough. that causes the fuel to tumble and help it vaporize better. and the exhaust side to make smooth, that will help the exhaust flow out better with less restriction. so i was curious to why you didn't use a sandpaper roll on the exhaust side? and my last question is , do you CC your heads when you are done to see if they are all the same? Thanks for sharing the knowledge. maybe a future hotrodder is watching what you do and gaining some knowledge.
I guess like all other aspects of engine building, my practice has evolved more and more. My plan with these was to open them up without losing velocity, and bowl blending. This video has been a while back. Since then, I’ve been really studying David Vizard’s head porting videos and I enjoy his explanations of why he does things. My next set, I will certainly mimic his techniques. Back to your questions: After porting my exhaust side, there was no casting left to polish out. I only CC’d the chambers of the heads to check compression ratio. I think I mentioned on Hayden’s heads that I’m using every set of heads that I port for practice for the next set! 😂 Hope to get good at it someday 🤞🏻
I think you did a awesome job porting them heads, I have been watching you and learning how to go about it myself and finally did it with some 360 heads, before we started the truck had problems overheating with in 5 minutes of running time, it had a blown head gasket but after all new gaskets and water pump and porting plus a new carb it still heats up just as fast, one head gets really hot but the other is normal, we can’t seem to figure out what is going on, we don’t dare drive it with that going on, do you have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks Mike! I can try to help. Did you take the heads to a machine shop to get resurfaced and checked for cracks? They can warp some if they got hot previously. Also, what thermostat is in the engine? Are you sure it’s fully opening? For a simple trick, you can pull it, cut the center out, and put the cage back in the housing. Running without one can cause the engine to run hot, but the small amount of restriction would imitate an open thermostat. If you try that and it doesn’t run hot, you’ve found your issue.
We haven’t taken them to a machine shop but I’m starting to wonder if we should have, we ported them and cleaned them up and stuffed them back on, as far as the thermostat goes I’m not entirely sure which one my brother in-law grabbed so I’ll find out and also try the trick on the thermostat as well and see what that does for it, this is the first set of heads I’ve ever ported it was fun, can’t wait to feel the difference in how it runs, thank you for being willing to help us out we need it Hahahaha
They would definitely need top notch port work. There’s an excellent thread on forabodiesonly that shows flow bench results. But with larger valves, having the valves unshrouded for the larger chambers would also be helpful, then a nice valve job would help majorly.
Donell Muniz I wondered the same. I had a Jiu recommend that I practice on the 360 heads that are cracked. I’d even drill a hole in several places to check the thickness.
Jason Simone blocking in the head might be better, to prevent exhaust from getting to the intake. I used the felpro intake gaskets that also block it. Many say they’ll burn through. I haven’t noticed that yet. If you live in a colder climate, I wouldn’t block it on a street car
Just a quick comment here I've done a fair amount of head porting and the best cutting fluid I have found is Stihl bar chain oil you can even use big carbides on aluminum with that shit
Reed Silvesan thank you! I guarantee that I try that next time. I enjoy learning new things and trying them. I’m definitely a novice porter. Should I have done anything differently on the head? It was hard for me to cut great amounts without a flow bench.
@JustMoparJoe nice! I'll have to try using some. I, so far, have simply used mine dry. I've been told if I ever do aluminum, WD 40 will keep the bur from clogging up. I'm not likely to have any aluminum heads anytime soon.
Not a silly story about what your Dad told you. another way to look at his story is to take two people breathing through a drinking straw. if you have a straw an 1/8 of an inch bigger than the other persons straw your going to breath better than the person with the smaller straw. especially if you both are running against each other in a race.
I'm close to start porting a set of 318 heads, with all the info Ive been collecting I cant wait to see the improved performance over stock
Roger Pascavis absolutely! These heads are going on my 360. I had to open them up and add the 1.88/1.60 valves to help compensate.
Porting can make such a difference that some racing classes forbid it. David Vizard is one of the experts that has influenced my approach to porting and polishing heads, intakes and even the headers or exhaust manifolds. Good to see your method.
Thanks Steven. David is a wealth of knowledge. I’ve been talking with Andy Wood about some port work I’ve done and how to improve it. I’ve grown quite a bit since this video.
I just ported a set of iron heads 4 my hotrod. Alot of work but well worth it. Nice work Joe!
Thanks Keith! I recently watched David Vizards videos on porting. Really show’s the science of it and what places are beneficial. I plan to port the 383 heads just like he did the vortec heads in his videos. Thanks for watching!
Intake port looks 👌
Thank you!
Killer work man, you've made a great porting series. Super helpful for those who don't know how deep or where to take metal out from. If you get bored you should do mine for me so I don't have to do them lol
Blown Budget Garage I’ll trade you these completed for the white seats 😂
JustMoparJoe I’m actually not going to be using the front or rear seats anymore 😂
Blown Budget Garage they looked better than most I’ve ever seen!
JustMoparJoe yeah but she’s getting an 8 point roll bar and some sparco buckets now lol
Blown Budget Garage you need to swap me some seats for a good 440 to build 👍🏼
Very good video, Thanks 👍. Any idea of what they flow before and after?
I wish! I have these on my built 360, from the engine build series. I am going to run it in the 1/8th someday to see what it can do. There's also a chassis dyno thats within 30 minutes of me that I want to hop on.
love it.. this is great...i do wish yould do alittle more show n tell about what grinder and bits you use.
Thanks brother. It’s an Ingersol Rand grinder. The bit were my dads old snap on’s from the 80’s. My recent bits purchased were from eBay for around 30$ each.
@@JustMoparJoe thanx bro..i might get brave an try to copy your technique... just picked up a 360.. from a 78 truck.. not sure what heads i have..yet..
This is a great educational video! Thank you...!
Nowadays, its really not worth the time spending 30+ hours porting a set of heads. You can get aluminum heads with valve train that flow much better for about 2k.
Thanks Craig! I ended up getting my 360 valves put into these heads and new comp springs installed for 340$ out the door. I wish they would have been some x or J castings, but I was definitely on a budget. Hopefully I picked up 10 hp and some good practice in the process. 👍🏼
Nice work, I am getting ready to port my 340 J heads I have on my 318 v8 that's in my 68 plymouth Barracuda.
I have a few other portoing videos for small blocks. I’m trying to progressively get better and learn more.
Great job 👍
Thank you! I just was able To port my RHS heads. They start with larger ports and bigger valves
I know garage builders like you n me cant afford it, but it would be nice to have before-and-after flowbench and dyno results. Or at least before and after ET and mph in the qtr mile.
Donell Muniz there’s finally a chassis dyno about 40 minutes from me.
looks good!!
David Lewis thank you! I have these heads on the 360 build that I just completed. The run video for it comes out Friday morning. It’s going to be stout. I have seen lots of speculation that 318 heads on a 360 will be out of rpm at 4,000 rpm. We shall see. I plan to swap my Indy x rhs heads to this block one day and buy some aluminum heads for my 408.
Hey Joe,sorry for askin this but you have opened the 318 windows up to a 360/340 gasket?
Daveo Oldham all questions are welcome! I’d still consider myself an amateur. To your question, I opened the windows up to the size of my intake. It is an old 340 torker. The ports in my intake were smaller than the blue gasket from felpro. Hope this helps. I’m finally doing a series on a 360 build if you want to check it out 👍🏼
Awesome,Just wanted to confirm that.I have the blue gasket from felpro its for a 360/340.And I thought that is quiet a bit of meat to remove from a 318 head.Yesterday I had my first attempt at this,I gasket matched the 318 gasket to the 318 head and I
gotta say It was a lot of fun.Today Iam moving to the bowl area I have so many questions for you,thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Daveo Oldham I based alit if my knowledge on the forabodiesonly.com post. The guys there actually had a flow bench, and he provides good photos too. Mopar to the front!
Yes Ive been a member for quiet a few years on for A bodys only
What are you dipping the bit into in the black cup?
Thomas Anderson that’s a paint can cap with transmission fluid. Cleans and cools the bit. Also serves as a cutting fluid.
joe, i've always read to leave the intake walls somewhat rough. that causes the fuel to tumble and help it vaporize better. and the exhaust side to make smooth, that will help the exhaust flow out better with less restriction. so i was curious to why you didn't use a sandpaper roll on the exhaust side? and my last question is , do you CC your heads when you are done to see if they are all the same? Thanks for sharing the knowledge. maybe a future hotrodder is watching what you do and gaining some knowledge.
I guess like all other aspects of engine building, my practice has evolved more and more. My plan with these was to open them up without losing velocity, and bowl blending. This video has been a while back. Since then, I’ve been really studying David Vizard’s head porting videos and I enjoy his explanations of why he does things. My next set, I will certainly mimic his techniques. Back to your questions: After porting my exhaust side, there was no casting left to polish out. I only CC’d the chambers of the heads to check compression ratio. I think I mentioned on Hayden’s heads that I’m using every set of heads that I port for practice for the next set! 😂 Hope to get good at it someday 🤞🏻
I think you did a awesome job porting them heads, I have been watching you and learning how to go about it myself and finally did it with some 360 heads, before we started the truck had problems overheating with in 5 minutes of running time, it had a blown head gasket but after all new gaskets and water pump and porting plus a new carb it still heats up just as fast, one head gets really hot but the other is normal, we can’t seem to figure out what is going on, we don’t dare drive it with that going on, do you have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks Mike! I can try to help. Did you take the heads to a machine shop to get resurfaced and checked for cracks? They can warp some if they got hot previously. Also, what thermostat is in the engine? Are you sure it’s fully opening? For a simple trick, you can pull it, cut the center out, and put the cage back in the housing. Running without one can cause the engine to run hot, but the small amount of restriction would imitate an open thermostat. If you try that and it doesn’t run hot, you’ve found your issue.
We haven’t taken them to a machine shop but I’m starting to wonder if we should have, we ported them and cleaned them up and stuffed them back on, as far as the thermostat goes I’m not entirely sure which one my brother in-law grabbed so I’ll find out and also try the trick on the thermostat as well and see what that does for it, this is the first set of heads I’ve ever ported it was fun, can’t wait to feel the difference in how it runs, thank you for being willing to help us out we need it Hahahaha
Do you think porting 318 heads would give the same performance or as close to as the 340?
They would definitely need top notch port work. There’s an excellent thread on forabodiesonly that shows flow bench results. But with larger valves, having the valves unshrouded for the larger chambers would also be helpful, then a nice valve job would help majorly.
I wonder how far u can go without hitting the pushrod tube, or worse, water.
Donell Muniz I wondered the same. I had a Jiu recommend that I practice on the 360 heads that are cracked. I’d even drill a hole in several places to check the thickness.
Do you block your heat crossover on your heads?
Jason Simone I blocked it on the intake. Most air gap style intakes block it for you.
OK thanks, I have a cast iron 340 intake and was wondering if I should block them or not before I install it.
Jason Simone blocking in the head might be better, to prevent exhaust from getting to the intake. I used the felpro intake gaskets that also block it. Many say they’ll burn through. I haven’t noticed that yet. If you live in a colder climate, I wouldn’t block it on a street car
Just a quick comment here I've done a fair amount of head porting and the best cutting fluid I have found is Stihl bar chain oil you can even use big carbides on aluminum with that shit
Reed Silvesan thank you! I guarantee that I try that next time. I enjoy learning new things and trying them. I’m definitely a novice porter. Should I have done anything differently on the head? It was hard for me to cut great amounts without a flow bench.
@@JustMoparJoe a set of long Shank carbide would help a lot other than that to did a really nice job on those heads
What are you dipping your bur into? Looks like u have a cup (a paint can lid maybey) & I see u dip ur bur somtimes? Is that WD 40?
No sir, transmission fluid. I was also told to try bar and chain oil.
@JustMoparJoe nice! I'll have to try using some. I, so far, have simply used mine dry. I've been told if I ever do aluminum, WD 40 will keep the bur from clogging up. I'm not likely to have any aluminum heads anytime soon.
Not a silly story about what your Dad told you. another way to look at his story is to take two people breathing through a drinking straw. if you have a straw an 1/8 of an inch bigger than the other persons straw your going to breath better than the person with the smaller straw. especially if you both are running against each other in a race.
He was a talented mechanic and Mopar guru.