1" Thick Aluminum Drilled With Paddle & Forstner Bits
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2017
- In this video: Jeff revisits a video made a little over a year ago, this time taking it a bit more seriously... The original video was made just to goof around but it raised some interesting questions. Today we are going to answer some of them.
Darkmoon Metals is a home based business start up, I have decided to live my dream and work for myself. I am a trained welder with a strong interest in blacksmithing. Dana, a long time friend and talented artist has teamed up with me to create truly unique products that will help us stand apart from other metal crafters. Join us for our ups and downs while we learn as we go. Trying to forge a new life in a dead economy that has left many blue collar people just trying to survive.
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I would never have even tried this. I'm glad to see it worked.
First timer. Had woodworking project that had aluminum sheeting glued to plywood counter top. Thanks to the video, I don't have to reinvest in a metal cutting set of bits and tools to finish the project. THANKS FOR THE KNOWLEDGE AND DEMONSTRATION!!
Jeff, suggestion, drill through with smaller paddle bit then send the forstner bit through, possibly better tolerance finish..
Great video - thanks for taking the chance I wouldn't. A real learning experience!
Blacksmithing was what brought me to your channel and all your other projects are what kept me here. Furthermore, your integrity transpires through your voice and body language and for that reason, I clicked the bell so that I know when you have put up a new video and I'm always looking forward to your next one. At this point and time I don't want to suggest anything since I really like what you are putting up and I don't want to influence your selection. You're doing great...keep it up.
Great video, thanks for doing the forstner bit as I have been wondering about that.
And I started watching your videos because of both the blacksmithing and welding videos you have done, but I have stuck around because of the good tips and instruction you give.
I started watching because I was in the market for a welder and needed information. And I also enjoy machining videos
The first video I watched was your welding table video. I think you are a great teacher. A newbe like me gets great value out of the how toos.
I’ve wondered if I could do this, but I didn’t want to risk my nice forstner bits. Thanks for sharing.
I came here looking for welding tips and now i love to see all your other stuff too. The one thing i tell people is "you dont know what you know till you tell someone else how to do it". What i mean by that is when you make something or do something you just do it with out thinking about it but when you show someone else how to then you start to think about what it is your doing and i like how you show things to us so keep it going and we will watch.
Found your channel after recently purchasing a set of Speedbor bits. Was curious about product reviews & applications for the bits. Saw your first video using the Irwin bit with an aluminum block and then checked out your follow-up video, comparing the Irwin and Forstner bits. Appreciate your easy/relaxed style of presentation, your obvious fund of knowledge and the sense of objectivity I get from what you're about. You present as though teaching comes easy to you. Wishing you the best, Jeff. Ed
I watch quite a lot of videos on metal working, your one of many on my hit list for watching, I like your philosophy in life and don't pay any attention to the numpties in life, keep up the good work.
Any video that helps me get a job done with the tools I have (not the tools I want) is great. I don't have paying customers to finance new tools. Also jobs that start with Aluminum castings, I have a little foundry and I don't have a stock of scrap steel. Thanks for this video.
I love your stuff aspecially the blacksmithing stuff keep them coming
Regards
Steve
Forstner bits like pilot holes. Even in wood they go so much easier even with as small as a 1/8th pilot hole. Most of the pressure you were needing was more than likely the center spike trying to smoosh its way through the metal.
They also like a few second pecks rather than constant pressure.
did that forester bit have a smooth or a threaded pilot tip??
Absolutely correct.
@@johnsmith4630 Smooth.
Thanks everyone
Thanks for sharing!
hey there, I enjoy your videos because of the plain language and explainations for people in their home shops & garages. I found you while searching for RR track info as I came into 5ft of it and want to work with it. I enjoy videos on blacksmithing & metal fabrication centering on making your own tools & equipment from basic hardy tools up to a power hammer. low budget but trying to maintain craftsmanship.
thanks, keep at it.
Never dreamed of cutting aluminum with these bits which was designed for wood.
I had the chance to work in a machine shop when I was younger. One of the older tool makers said in passing one day, "You can cut through any material as long as your cutting tool is harder, it may dull faster than the right tool for the job but it will cut."
Well, I loved this. Found it very amusing. Continue on and I will continue watching.I watch your videos for all the reasons you said, but what got me was my starting to learn blacksmithing. That said, I have found each of your videos very interesting and informative. Can't really make a suggestion on what you should do, so as I said, continue on and I will continue watching.
For me it's a combination of skills. There are a couple of things that reallys stands out to me is you're not shouting at the beginning of the video's, something that I find really annoying on others and instantly puts me off, the second is no loud or annoying music. It's a great channel that I've already recommended to others 👍
I started watching because of the welding but I like seeing content using "more average joe" type of tooling, drills, circular saws etc much like this video concerning the bits used,. Most people do not have mills and lathes.
Blacksmithing made me come here,but I also enjoy your other videos.
Im actually quite impressed both bits actually cut it......
Good stuff. Enjoyed this video alot
Hi Jeff- started watching your welding vids but anything is good for me- I'm a general tinkerer but love anything with a practical bent. Keep up the good work and good luck with your business. Cheers.
gday, i like this chanel because you are not focusing on one thing, you are showing different skills and tips on a variety of applications, not everybody is skilled, and watching and learing videos like yours are great, cheers
Congratulations on your 10K subs. You earned and deserved everyone of them. Your plain talk explanations couple with your honest evaluations makes you almost unique in the RUclips community. Good work and I wish you to get to 50K by 2018.
Thank you! I need to drill one 5/8” hole in 3/8” aluminum and it does not need perfect tolerance or spec’s, so I have been looking to see if it can be done by using a forstner or spade bit. You video is just what needed!
I'm a woodworker and you showed up in my feed. Great teacher. When you were doing close ups I kept thinking "focus you fu**!", in Ave's voice which might explain why your channel came up on my feed. Have liked and subscribed.
Same, woodworker, and it shown up on my feed too, great video, I'll have to try this some time.
I'd love to see you compare a hole saw and annular cutter to the spade and forstner.
Not sure why I first stopped by, but you are interesting, so I subbed. Your relaxed style is nice. Keep on doing what you are doing!
the first video of yours that i watched was your anvil ring video where you lugged them all outside. been watching since :)
i definitely enjoy the informational side of your videos.
cheers Jeff and Dana
Thanks for the feedback man, it is going to help us a lot.
Forstners will always have an issue with chip clearance when compared to a spade bit - the trade off is a cleaner bottom surface and side walls. For through holes, use a spade bit or hole saw (or twist bit if you have one that diameter), and for stopped, partial thickness holes, a Forstner bit is best.
What should i do if i need to make the spark plug hole wider ?
My problem is the spark plug is short to the combustion chamber tightens only halfway in hole. My plan is to drill a wider hole on top and keep the original hole and thread halfway but i dont know what tool should i use can you help me
Good to know. In a pinch, at least there's an option. Good video!
Unfortunately, I need to drill a hole for a new aluminum router plate. Your video answered my questions/concerns...THANKS!
started watching as im scared to death of my hole saws and needed some encouragement (i got here via a hole saw instructional) saw your using the wrong bit for the job and thought that suits me perfectly 🤣 i dont have money for "all the parts" but i do enjoy creating rather than buying. you get a better quality product than you would from a factory plus itadds zen points to your house.
anything that shows how to get a job done safely and on a budget is a winner for me. most of the vids out there are simply how to use the bit that comes with your 60,000 dollar machine. or just how to waste money destroying things.
help me build :) and thanks for the vids, subscribed.
That's a great video i'd never thought to use one of those just to force a quick hole, i know you sped up the video to save us the boredom but it would have been nice to give us just a bit of real time just to see how it was going through.... regards Andy
I think they are called SPADE bits - but seeing their performance was a useful surprise. I think they will be very use to prep for a boring head! THANKS
Looks like you used a smooth edge on the forstner bit, do you think that a wavy edge or a saw tooth edge would work better for plunging aluminum?
what bit would I be using to drill 2 Precision Holes that will not have any wobble or play at all? in a aluminum plate of 1/2 inch thick it going to be 2 plate of 1/4 inch put together to make 1/2 inch thick then i need to make the bottom parts of the holes bigger so that the top of the bolt can sync in both bolt need to sync in at the same depth thy are round head bolts and it need a Allen wrench to make it turn .
so what i making is a base for the tv stand so when u buy the tv stand the base is a tempered glass base that I need to replace by making an aluminum base. all i need to do is drill to hole side to side then the hold will have a plastic piece that sites on top that has tow tube that stick a few mm out that fit in the hole and that can not have any play need to fit in precisely then the bottom need to have the hole made bigger so that the bolt can sync in but both holes need to be the same depth so what should bits should i be using for all this
I am a homeowner and I am attempting to upgrade my flashing around the house. I also have a deck that has slanted boards underneath a corrugated aluminum roof that drains onto the wood. I am also considering adding flashing on top of the boards so the water will drain further away from the deck and not drip on the crossboards below. I am then going to add a gutter underneath the extended flashing to control the fall of the water to a downspout. This is the extent of my current metalworking projects. I may also weld some repairs on some garden fans so need to find out about the procedure to do that. Not sure if this is the place but still interested.
Hiw do you get your mill to run at 5xspeed like that????? Is it a special kind of mill.......
Thanks for this review Jef really informative I'm just hoping that this will work as well on a T6 aluminum as I don't have a lathe machine to make this kind of hole and I'm planning to do it with a drill press with a 1 1/4 bit even if takes a while is not a big deal to me as long as it works. I'll do it like 1/8 of an inch per drill and pull it out so it will not make those long curly chips that causes the problem.
Hey Jeff, interesting video. I started watching for the blacksmithing (would like to see more) but wouldn't mind seeing you do an intro to the milling machine, maybe with a couple of recommendations for a starter mill.
could look up the user: this old tony
hes all about his lathe and setups. covers everything.
very good info
sounds like the part heated up and jammed the bit, so the motor stalled. Happens with Aluminium on the table saw sometimes, when you dwell, you start to yell😭😭🤣🤣🤣❤️
Hi Jeffrey, thanks for sharing. Are these bits for all purpose? I have been trying to drill holes into aluminum but could not get them done.
Great test, I would not have considered either bit to drill aluminum. I am impressed by the paddle bit! How about a drill bit? Ha!
How many RPM did you use at 4:06? Thanks in advance.
those bits cut holes in thin plate pretty well. used to use em on steel computer cases. theyll blunt fast but theyre usually laying around not being useful anyways.
If I don't have a proper drill press and I would like to bore a 3/4" hole in a circular piece of aluminum that is 1.75" in diameter, how would you suggest I do it?
Have you worked teflon blocks? Any advice?
Good Job
yup clearing the chips/strands ive found is vital for aluminium as it just tends to melt inside the hole and causes chaos. lots of up n down on the press. like 1mm down. pull back up and then go back at it
Is it possible to cut down and machine a treadmill flywheel without a metal lathe? I was thinking about cutting out the core of the flywheel and then treading it back on the motor shaft (left hand thread) then using an angle grinder and files to size the lump of cast to fit a drive pulley. The speed of the motor will be adjustable so I don't think it would be super dangerous. The turned portion of the shaft will be there just to align the pulley and any set screws etc. will be on the original portion of the shaft. Thoughts?
You could do this without a lathe but your going to have to cut that core out so the hole you make is perfectly centered. If its not centered the wheel will not be balanced and could lead to a whole lot of vibration. Depending on how off balance it is the vibration could cause a major failure.
Cool. I came here because I know nothing about spade bits. I was wondering if they can cut through sheet metal because that might happen every blue moon, but you're cutting into solid aluminum and they seem to work just fine. It's not ideal, but it worked.
I have cut Aluminum with steel bits before. If you have the right bit tip it will cut it easily. I've used that to make some brackets before.
What would you recommend to drill a 1/8" wide hole into aluminum with a preferably flat bottom, like 1/16" deep into 1/8" thick aluminum slab.
I would use a 1/8" end mill. It makes a flat bottom hole, the issue is they are not really made to be used in a drill press or hand drill. The end mill can slip in a standard drill chuck. they are normally held in a collet. But... being that your drilling to a very shallow depth and aluminum being a soft metal it should be doable. Just make sure the work is in some kind of vise.
How would you suggest making a hole wide and deep enough for a 1.125 bearing in an aluminum block?
You probably already have the answer, but since this question wasn't answered here, I'd put in my suggestion.
Personally, I'd mill it; A.K.A. machine it (if you have a CNC router, which is getting common for makers these days, you could use that).
It would have been nice to see a metal drilling bit for comparison. Cool video.
do they make a carbide tipped paddle bit?
Grind some back relief on the spade bit and it will produce a better finish.
Idk of u will ever see this the world is a large place but what What drill bit would your recomend for aluminum Al u minon ?
When you sharpen the paddle bit you can round the outside edge and make a smoother hole..
I'll try that, have a box full of old paddle bits saved.
Best tool to make accurate 1 9/16" holes in 3/16" aluminum alloy? Thanks.
Making accurate holes that large in a home shop is not easy, if it needs to be accurate within a few thousands I would look into laser cutting shops in your area.
If I needed to drill that size hole in a aluminum place and it was small enough to mount in my lathes 4 jaw chuck I would drill the largest size hole I had a bit for then use a boring bar to open it up to dimension. Could do the same thing with a boring head on a milling machine.
Without knowing what tools you have access and the size of the part your trying to drill it's hard to be make useful suggestions.
Hey Jeff - what happens when I want to drill a 30mm (1.1811") hole into aluminum soffit/gutter thickness aluminum 0.6858mm (0.027 inch)? Will the forstner bit last me over 200 holes? Will it even work, or is there a bitter method? (some kind of punch or something)
On aluminum that thin I would use a whole punch, a knock out punch or something like it. Check this out:
www.amazon.com/SagaSave-Sheet-Hexagon-Cutter-Stainless/dp/B09MM58MXX/ref=asc_df_B09MM58MXX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=652812974561&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18310546028760669963&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003439&hvtargid=pla-2006561317561&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsp6pBhCfARIsAD3GZuZYsQG-YByZ7OIoJ1AwiRiwiFzB1l1lGE8xB7xkG0vInszL4i2waJkaAlJ6EALw_wcB&th=1
Came to this accidentally, looking for thin plate metal forming, one thing which is hard to find info on is making small metal hinges, only found a couple of those, i have made a couple and they work quite well, but wish to learn better techniques.
the aluminum door manufacturers carried by "Big Blue" actually recommend drilling their product for door handles using spade bits, or paddle bits as you call them.
thats good to know. they always worked well for me on sheet metal. got a lot of "thats for wood" ..works though doesnt it :)
To anyone that has experience with billet aluminium thanks What's the best way to slightly widen a hole in a 1/2 billet block I'm basically want it widened from a 13mm hole to a 9/16" hole I have a big bench vise and drill LOL any thoughts thanks
I used an auger today for a 7/8" hole I needed a flat bottom hole for a skate bearing. I only have a drill press. Worked well. I like hacks because I have a ton of tools but never have everything so show more of those.
So what would have been the proper bit to use to make those holes? (Or larger)
Something like this: www.amazon.com/Drill-Hog-Silver-Deming-HI-Molybdenum/dp/B074D58SQX/ref=sr_1_60?dchild=1&keywords=Drill+Hog&qid=1617720516&sr=8-60
Since making this video I have a whole set of large size drill bits. Drill Hog is a really good company so I splurged on them a little.
if i need a shaft permanetly in place should i use a 15/16 bit and press the shaft in or should i use 7/8. it will be under 300 pounds of force and spinning at 130 mph. to keep it in place should i also use somethi9ng else to keep it in place?
Anything that is spinning on a shaft should have a key or at the very least a set screw of some kind. Since I don't know the exact application or the materials you are using to build this shaft I do not know if a friction fit will work or be safe. Depending on the material once you have established the friction fit you could have it welded in place.
Good comparison but I will stick to using metal drill bits for aluminium as I have in the past. Though about the Forstner bit I don't think that is actually a Forstner bit. I also have those kinds of drill bits you have there and on the package, they explicitly stated on the box that they very more versatile than Forstner bits because you could drill holes that are curved a little bit as well as drilling straight down. Sure they might be able to do so as I haven't tested them other than drilling straight down. My Forstner bits in comparison does leave a much smoother bottom of the drilled hole then these and also leaves a much more sharp edge so for straight holes in wood I will keep using my Forstner bits and those other ones will keep collecting dust on a shelf until I for some reason need to cut a hole that is not straight down. Maybe if I make a marble machine or something. Haven't found any use for them yet.
What's the proper tool to use to make a flat countersink? Right now the forstner bit looks like the best option so far.
In a perfect world everyone would own a Bridgeport milling machine... Even though you are not suppose to use an end mill in a drill press chuck for something as soft as aluminum you can get away with it for just flattening out the bottom of the hole. I would never try that on steel though.
Jeffrey Santo you are actually safer plunging an endmill with regard to pulling the cutter out of the Chuck in steel than aluminum. The aluminum is soft enough that there is a possibility of self feeding similar to acrylic and polycarbonate.
HHS(high speed steel) which is what most tools are made of will cut any aluminium even if under enough pressure it plows its way through. Wood working tools have angles ground specificaly for wood.if you need a hole in aluminium just get a drill bit.
Ok. Diff question, but in same vein. Can you not “part off” a big dia. hole by running narrow tool at the correct radius location?
What?
That was surprisingly good for a cheap Forstner. I once drilled a paddle into a wet tree stump and it blunted to rounded out cutters in barely two inches depth. Still….I won’t be pressing my nice Fisch Forstner bits into metal anytime soon Lol.
the forstner bit does the same in wood,,, and can only bore 1/8-1/4'' before you clear chips,,, ,,,,, chips build up on the interior of these bits and prevent the cutting edge from contacting the cut surface , as for the videos,,, it the crazy off the wall experiments ,like this that draws me the most, but have watched many of your other videos too, like seeing someone else prove my ideas are not to out there,without me destroying any of my 0$ budget for tools lol ,,,, some times destroying a cheep bit that is not intended for that use is the cheaper why to go when you lack the right equipment ,
Thanks.
I know this video is old but I am about to possibly need to do this, but with a blind hole, probably about 1 1/8” diameter and 1/4” deep. The flat bottom is somewhat important but it doesn’t need to be perfect. The center point of a paddle bit wouldn’t really be too big of a deal. What would you recommend for this task? I don’t have a mill so I don’t think a giant end mill is an option, and I am trying to be mindful of the expense as well. I’m open to ideas if anyone sees this.
Are you drilling into aluminum or something different?
Do you know of an easy wahy to modify a 1.5 in paddel bit to drill cleanly through steel studds. Dont want ti by a 60 dollhair tool with carbide teeth that breakboff anyway...
a paddle bit will likely tare steel studs, plus it will dull quickly. If I had to drill a hole through steel studs I would personally look into a hole saw, You can get a bi metal hole saw at Home Depot for around $10 bucks. Here is a link to one:
www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1-1-2-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-DHS1500/301697717?mtc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700010802552394&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItYfXvqDO6gIVHOy1Ch3N9gOOEAQYBSABEgKHmfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Which scrapyard(s) do you use? I'm also in CT. I was under the impression that scrapyards don't generally let people pick through the scrap. I'd love to be wrong.
I've been buying new stock from OnlineMetals' warehouse in Wallingford and offcuts from Logan Steel in Meriden. More choices / better prices would be nice.
I buy everything from Logan Steel, I stock up during sales. Every once and a while I'll go to Magna Steel to see what they have, but Logan generally has better prices.
As far as selling scrap I use Lajoies in Norwalk for now. I am planning on moving to the Northeast corner of CT within the next year so I will be looking for something closer to that area.
Steel prices have been going up, as with many other things. Finding good deals is becoming harder for me lately as well.
I reckon the tip on the forstner bit was slowing it down as it would be the equivalent of drilling a hole with a nail. It would have been melting and spreading the aluminium rather than cutting it. Drill a pilot hole all the way through first.
haha only time i see someone touching the metal chips xD
"I had to go slow and I didn't use any lubrication". That is exactly how I roll.
Bro, you know I'm an idea guy. And I have a bunch. There would be a few hitches to overcome, but they can be. I just cant do it here. Including one of the ideas we discussed already. I need to sit down with you and a notepad and/or tablet
Well if you would have done a pilot hole all the way through i bet it could make it a bit more accurate. That will guide it on the reverse drill.
i like the milling videos
Wow, I would have never guessed that it could be done! LOL, my dad would have slapped me on the back of the head if he saw me do something like that, he taught me that those bits are only meant for wood. However, you proved otherwise, thanks for the lesson. BTW what RPM where you set at?
What is the best way to recess a hole in steel?
If I wanted to countersink a bolt head for example I would just use a large enough drill bit to allow the head of the bolt to clear sit below the surface.
Jeffrey Santo they make specific counter bore bore for this purpose. They can be sized for specific hardware whether socket head screws or hex head screws.
get someone else to do it
The difficulty might have more to do with the side cutting edges
We like the host ,! He is good at explaining and we are going too save the videos I’m in the proses of putting together Our lab I’m just coming around from a life changing event !, and come up with this some call it tinkering,!
Tweaking,!lol Frankenstein lol 😝 we got our drill press and a grinder , band saw will have to wait I don’t have the cash to facilitate the funds , Thank You 🙏 Blessings, black dog out .......
What kind of aluminum.
Friction and heat. When working metal you need to understand different material properties. When you are wanting a more fine finish you need to use slower feed rates and higher tool speed.
try a mag drill broach , be interesting too
You look quite healthy after the paddle bit was removed from your chest :-))
Also, these cutting edges are indeed dull, and the tips are rounded. Remember that wood cutting bits are different steel than metal cutting bits. The precision’s is worse. The hardening is less - much softer. While metal cutting bit alloy is designed for high temperatures, wood cutting bits are for much lower temperature.
I would have felt more comfortable if you had cut the shank of the flat bit by half. The wobble had me sweating.
second cutting the shank down
I found you not long ago with the anvil testing which led me to your site where I checked out a few more before subscribing. You are at ease talking to the camera, explain what's going on well and, ( for the most part ), have the interesting bit in frame for us to watch. Having a sense of humour helps too. Cheers on reaching 10 000, if you can get RUclips's algorithm to promote your channel you will see 20 000 soon.
i need to drill 28mm size hole into 1" sus304 block
That Forstner bit was a poor example you might have had more luck with a quality one, bu then again why not just bore the hole.