Soldering two big wires together by fraying the wires and pushing them together and rolling then and molding them so the wires will be strong and give good conductivity.
Thank you excellent method and the heat shrink will look neat and easy to slide on. I wish i knew this many years ago and not when i have one foot in the grave.
Notice when he puts the solder tip on the bottom, the solder will not take into the wires from the top. Cold joint 101. This is a video of what NOT to do .
Im a rookie so I don’t know for sure but would he have done that to heat up the wires first since heat rises? That way wants the solder can flow through and smooth?
Awesome, nice job Dick! You'll find a little flux helps to "mold" the loose strands and makes it easy to for the solder to chase the flux into the center of the joint. Thumbs up buddy!
Flux isn't really needed for clean tinned wire. Unless you're trying to join them a crazy wrong way like shown in the video, then it might help or might just cook off burnt to make a carbon residue mess as long as it took to do those using the wrong tip and wrong method. Flux can easily be overheated and then worse than no flux, when the wrong method needs to pump way too much heat into the joint.
ALWAYS Heat your wires from the bottom. I like to mesh the wires then wrap over them with small gauge solid copper wire then solder them this makes for the strongest solder joint if your using 8 ga or 4 ga or larger wire. Boy this guy really admires his work huh❓
I'm soldering two 10 awg wires for a Traxxas speed control. I've splayed them like he shows, but I'm not sure the solder got to the center. I should have used flux. I used a desk type soldering station (700 degrees). Should I use my gun instead? Thanks!
Excellent advice! I'm presently changing my deans & traxxas connectors to castles 6.5s and this would make the ESC series connector swop a little easier! I can make my series connectors with my extra wires and just clip off the old and soldier mine in place.
I do many different wire size solder joints for the audio harnesses I build and I've found that for the thicker wires,like when I'm wrapping 22awg around 14awg which essentially makes the whole thing about an 8awg,using a higher powered gun(100+watts) works just fine.Tin the tip and hold to the joint and it heats up nicely.Solder flows freely just like a smaller awg joint would.Basically you just have to use the right amount of power for the joint being soldered.
@A. Melbs Well when splicing thinner wire to thicker Just make the thinner wire longer or in other words strip more insulation off and then wrap it around like a candy cane the thick wire. What I do first is take the thick wire in twist it up so that it's nice and solid and straight That way you can wrap the thinner wire around it easily. As far as the head unit wiring goes I'm still not quite sure what you mean by that.
You want to remove more of the insulation, so you can get your fingers in there better. Once splayed and pressed together, hold one side of the exposed wire, while twisting the other side. That creates a much better joint..
Hahah, NO! You never splay wires apart to join them. Unless talking structural support wires that are crimped not soldered. On the contrary you want to try to keep them from splaying apart any more than needed to make them cleanly wrap around each other when twisting them together, using a much longer length of wire with the insulation stripped off.
Nice job! Gotta love the D&D. I would be interested in seeing you do the soldering on your battery connectors. That's where I have a lot of problems with them coming loose.
Ollander, I know what you mean. It took me a while to figure it out too. I just uploaded a video on how to solder a deans plug. I hope it helps. If you use a different type of plug I will do a video on that type also.
Thanks for showing us how to make a partial 'cold' solder joint. Look at the underside dude. You applied heat to the top way too long and didn't apply it evenly all the way around. It makes a difference if you want a proper solder joint. And trim back a little more of the insulation so your fingers can get a better twisting grip on it. You need a good mechanical AND electrical connection when soldering wires.
You soldered the cable for 2.5 min. !!! You just killed him )) Cables of this volume are soldered with 100W soldering irons and 6-8mm tips (they probably skipped classes at school, there is such a law of "heat transfer" in physics, which says that: in order to transfer heat - the heating element must be of a size approximately equal to the size of the heated element ).
Maybe you are clueless to the fact that NASA doesn't just demo and train for one kind of wire, that they also do multi-strand? Did you really think NASA only uses solid core wire? That's so ludicrous that I'm just going to stop typing now.
I think this was just a single joint but you would probably benefit from a slightly larger tip to dump the heat into the joint if you were going to be doing many still learning myself
You might mean well but you have it backwards, at least the little bit you wrote could be misconstrued. The less conductive solder is, the higher the conductive capacity from more of it there. Perhaps what you mean to write is that wire joint is a terrible mess and there's too much of an air gap in it before the solder is added.
@wntu4+1 to you sir - yep good demonstration, but a more powerful soldering iron might be better in this case. Too much solder = added resistance. Needs to heat up more so can quickly let solder flow to the hot spots in the wire. A great method I saw was after the "splaying" wrap the splay joint with uninsulated speaker wire (18 gauge) then solder the joint with the appropriate amount.
Thanks for the video. How many watts for the soldering iron needed to solder big wires like this? I need to solder a big wire like this but my solder iron is 40w and it looks like it doesn't put enough heat to get the job done.
His problem was trying to use the long conical tip. If you had a stout chisel tip and a true 40W soldering station (not line powered slow recovery iron with no reserve capacity) then it would be enough. Easy answer is crimp wires if you don't want to invest in a higher powered iron but if you do want to invest, and are okay with it only being able to handle larger jobs, then you can get a 100W pistol style soldering iron from Harbor Freight for under $15 w/coupon. It's crap quality but you would get enough uses out for several wires and how many of these is someone typically going to do unless into something where they already had the iron needed? www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-soldering-gun-kit-64056.html
Guys don't apply this his step by step method. From what I have learned so far. 1.) You need to pre-tin your tip 2.) Apply heat to the opposite side of the wire that the heat is applied. 3.) You could use flux to help promote heat transfer but not too much. 4.) Larger wires require larger tips to help increase surface contact between the iron tip and the connection you are trying to solder ... Otherwise you can end up with a cold solder joint that can cause inefficiencies in your circuit. #RUclipsUniversity #TinYourTips #KeepYourTipsClean
That’s actually bad soldering.. you didn’t tin the iron and you don’t put the iron on top and poke it with the wire!! Iron under and wire on top ! Your iron seems to be slow/crap and ur doing it wrong
You could put them parallel and lash them, but you must be thinking of home AC wiring because there's no DIY applications to mod solid core 10 ga and in that case, it won't meet code. If you have two ends of solid 10 gauge you need a junction box, and nut or terminal strip, etc - consult your local electrical codes or really to even ask that, please don't mess with solid core 10 ga wire at all.
His wire insulation is silicone, that's the only reason he didn't have a molten then charred mess with that method which takes way too long too much heat just wrong altogether.
that means your on the wire to long, might want a higher watt solder iron. seems counter intuitive but a hotter iron will get you in n out before the heat spreads.
.... because it is............................................................................................................................................................ bigger.
All of that extra solder is traveling up the length of the wire and you are going to be left with two stiff sections of wire that will act as a "lever" arm setting the distal ends of the wire up for mechanical failure and a possible short. This is not a good technique.
I just watched this video, but the solder flowing up into the insulation causing stiff sections of wire is called solder wicking. It is a defect on all 3 classes if it's in a section that is required to remain flexible.
Initially, the solder was touching the pencil which is creating nothing more than a cold solder which will fail at some point. You need a hot solder. The solder needs to melt via a hot wire, not touching the pencil.
Not necessarily true, creating a thermal bridge can speed up initial heat transfer and minimise dwelling time which is better for the the insulation and any components attached to the wires. It's definitely not unusual to use a thermal bridge to make heat transfer faster when soldering larger parts.
Meh, that is doubtful. I mean the wires have to be joined to something metal or more solder at the other end so they would inherently have to be able to handle "some" heat anyway. It is definitely more of a concern if he was trying to solder that semi-low gauge wire to something with contacts set in plastic, like a barrel connector, or potentiometer, but you wouldn't need that low a gauge of wire for either of those. Components are inherently designed so that the wire gauge they support, could be heated enough to make the solder connection or else the component is intended for a blade connector or some other attachment method instead of solder. When in doubt read the component datasheet. If there is no datasheet then it is probably generic chinese crap and shouldn't be used at all unless the margins are so obviously far beyond any remote chance during use that it seems to be overkill, and even then, it may still fail because crap is crap.
Depends on where you are located, you can shop around like anyone else. For that kind of work, most rosin core solder would work, but for best newbie results, get Kester or Alpha (etc, a major brand not an ebay special) 63/47 rosin core. It runs about $33 per lb currently, but solder prices fluctuate with the metal market.
@@kylemilford5968 Unlikely because of sponsorship from dunkin donuts with only 2.8K subscribers (at the time I write this). That amount of subscribers is great and Dick should be proud. Just not the amount that would get a sponsor out of dunkin. The point of the coffee talk was probably to make conversation, to build rapport with viewers is my guess.
That is the worse way to solder two wire together. A cat could pull them apart. If you want your wire to have the tensile strength of a single strand of wire go ahead and do it that way. If you want your soldered wire to stay together even when pulled then do a Lineman Splice then solder. The connection will be stronger than the wire itself. This is what Western Union and your electric power company does to repair power lines and telegraph cables.
Jason Austin Thanks for watching man. Your problem is not unusual. Since this video was made I have upgraded to a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station for less than $100.The biggest mistake new people soldering is the wrong iron & tips, solder and flux. You have to have enough heat and the right kind of solder. At Radio Shack you can get Led solder with rosin core. Too much heat and the flux burns away leaving a black globy mess. I will do some more soldering videos soon.
***** That is inncorrect. That is due to either too much rosin core or too bigger lead dia size. Jason Austin Need lead rosin core sized 1 mm dia. I'm pretty sure Jason have right soldering if it is 12 AWG or higher.
good one dick, if shrink tubing goes on it then it looks like it never was cut at all. have you done one x60 battery terminal and the opposite terminal for Esc, please
way too long solder process you need a hotter iron so you dont need to hold the heat on so long. if there was electronics on the wires they where ruined
Need more heat. The solder should be touched to the wire, not the iron. The solder should flow from the hot wire to the iron, not from the hot iron to the cold wire. The properly heated wire will "suck" the solder toward the hot iron.
If you dip the end of the wires in flux before you lay down the solder you will get a much stronger and hotter head.
Thank you excellent method and the heat shrink will look neat and easy to slide on. I wish i knew this many years ago and not when i have one foot in the grave.
+Saleem Kader Thanks so much for your kind comment. Keep watching. Thanks
Saleem...Great tip...Take your one foot out of the grave. Nobody will stop you..
GET IT OUT!
Thanks for the video. New to RC so I need good instruction like yours.
Notice when he puts the solder tip on the bottom, the solder will not take into the wires from the top. Cold joint 101. This is a video of what NOT to do .
Im a rookie so I don’t know for sure but would he have done that to heat up the wires first since heat rises? That way wants the solder can flow through and smooth?
Awesome, nice job Dick! You'll find a little flux helps to "mold" the loose strands and makes it easy to for the solder to chase the flux into the center of the joint. Thumbs up buddy!
I use to have some flux, but with solder with a flux core I don't use it any more.
I should get some for larger wires.
Thanks
Flux isn't really needed for clean tinned wire. Unless you're trying to join them a crazy wrong way like shown in the video, then it might help or might just cook off burnt to make a carbon residue mess as long as it took to do those using the wrong tip and wrong method. Flux can easily be overheated and then worse than no flux, when the wrong method needs to pump way too much heat into the joint.
ALWAYS Heat your wires from the bottom. I like to mesh the wires then wrap over them with small gauge solid copper wire then solder them this makes for the strongest solder joint if your using 8 ga or 4 ga or larger wire.
Boy this guy really admires his work huh❓
I'm soldering two 10 awg wires for a Traxxas speed control. I've splayed them like he shows, but I'm not sure the solder got to the center. I should have used flux. I used a desk type soldering station (700 degrees). Should I use my gun instead? Thanks!
@@TiberiusCat For larger wires I use my Weller Soldering gun👍👍
Excellent advice! I'm presently changing my deans & traxxas connectors to castles 6.5s and this would make the ESC series connector swop a little easier! I can make my series connectors with my extra wires and just clip off the old and soldier mine in place.
I do many different wire size solder joints for the audio harnesses I build and I've found that for the thicker wires,like when I'm wrapping 22awg around 14awg which essentially makes the whole thing about an 8awg,using a higher powered gun(100+watts) works just fine.Tin the tip and hold to the joint and it heats up nicely.Solder flows freely just like a smaller awg joint would.Basically you just have to use the right amount of power for the joint being soldered.
Great comment, thanks a big bunch for watching
@A. Melbs If you can be a bit more specific about what your problem is I might be able to offer some help.
@A. Melbs Well when splicing thinner wire to thicker Just make the thinner wire longer or in other words strip more insulation off and then wrap it around like a candy cane the thick wire. What I do first is take the thick wire in twist it up so that it's nice and solid and straight That way you can wrap the thinner wire around it easily. As far as the head unit wiring goes I'm still not quite sure what you mean by that.
Nice this will help me with my project I'm working on many thanks
You want to remove more of the insulation, so you can get your fingers in there better. Once splayed and pressed together, hold one side of the exposed wire, while twisting the other side. That creates a much better joint..
Hahah, NO! You never splay wires apart to join them. Unless talking structural support wires that are crimped not soldered. On the contrary you want to try to keep them from splaying apart any more than needed to make them cleanly wrap around each other when twisting them together, using a much longer length of wire with the insulation stripped off.
Nice job! Gotta love the D&D. I would be interested in seeing you do the soldering on your battery connectors. That's where I have a lot of problems with them coming loose.
Ollander, I know what you mean. It took me a while to figure it out too.
I just uploaded a video on how to solder a deans plug. I hope it helps. If you use a different type of plug I will do a video on that type also.
This is one hot soldering tip!
.Looks good.
Kool I am glad you like it.
The teacher is coming out in me.
Like this method. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for showing us how to make a partial 'cold' solder joint. Look at the underside dude. You applied heat to the top way too long and didn't apply it evenly all the way around. It makes a difference if you want a proper solder joint. And trim back a little more of the insulation so your fingers can get a better twisting grip on it. You need a good mechanical AND electrical connection when soldering wires.
Hey Dick, you need to introduce solder at the first touch of the iron, for best heat transference 👍
You soldered the cable for 2.5 min. !!! You just killed him ))
Cables of this volume are soldered with 100W soldering irons and 6-8mm tips (they probably skipped classes at school, there is such a law of "heat transfer" in physics, which says that: in order to transfer heat - the heating element must be of a size approximately equal to the size of the heated element ).
You probably need to peel off more insulation and try to crisscross so as to get more strength. Good luck!
Great tips and tricks from Uncle Dick,very useful.Cheers.
thanks for vid, helpful. its funny though how all these 'experts' are watching learning vids on youtube and commenting on yours. lol
Lol agree
Looks perfect to me !
Good job !
For all you guys busting this guy's nuts and all you "experts", a Lineman's or a NASA solder joint is for SOLID core wire.
Thanks for clearing that up! It makes sense with solid core.
Maybe you are clueless to the fact that NASA doesn't just demo and train for one kind of wire, that they also do multi-strand? Did you really think NASA only uses solid core wire? That's so ludicrous that I'm just going to stop typing now.
@@stinkycheese804 thank God!
That is a sweet looking solder joint I’ve ever seen one! What do you reckon a joint like this adds to the resistance of the conductor?
Oh yeah baby spread them wires!
I think this was just a single joint but you would probably benefit from a slightly larger tip to dump the heat into the joint if you were going to be doing many still learning myself
Way too much solder. Standard 60/40 is something like 11% as conductive as copper.
You might mean well but you have it backwards, at least the little bit you wrote could be misconstrued. The less conductive solder is, the higher the conductive capacity from more of it there. Perhaps what you mean to write is that wire joint is a terrible mess and there's too much of an air gap in it before the solder is added.
@wntu4+1 to you sir - yep good demonstration, but a more powerful soldering iron might be better in this case. Too much solder = added resistance. Needs to heat up more so can quickly let solder flow to the hot spots in the wire. A great method I saw was after the "splaying" wrap the splay joint with uninsulated speaker wire (18 gauge) then solder the joint with the appropriate amount.
YOU are the man
with a good iron, clean, steady hands, i use rosin core when i can, have good heat too, not too much not too little, just like you, right
Yup
& Lead & Tin solder..
It is hard to find here, so I get mine from C
I thought the rosin wasn’t suppose to touch the top of the solder iron…
coffee tutorial?
Thanks for the video. How many watts for the soldering iron needed to solder big wires like this? I need to solder a big wire like this but my solder iron is 40w and it looks like it doesn't put enough heat to get the job done.
His problem was trying to use the long conical tip. If you had a stout chisel tip and a true 40W soldering station (not line powered slow recovery iron with no reserve capacity) then it would be enough. Easy answer is crimp wires if you don't want to invest in a higher powered iron but if you do want to invest, and are okay with it only being able to handle larger jobs, then you can get a 100W pistol style soldering iron from Harbor Freight for under $15 w/coupon. It's crap quality but you would get enough uses out for several wires and how many of these is someone typically going to do unless into something where they already had the iron needed?
www.harborfreight.com/100-watt-soldering-gun-kit-64056.html
Guys don't apply this his step by step method. From what I have learned so far. 1.) You need to pre-tin your tip 2.) Apply heat to the opposite side of the wire that the heat is applied. 3.) You could use flux to help promote heat transfer but not too much. 4.) Larger wires require larger tips to help increase surface contact between the iron tip and the connection you are trying to solder ... Otherwise you can end up with a cold solder joint that can cause inefficiencies in your circuit. #RUclipsUniversity #TinYourTips #KeepYourTipsClean
That’s actually bad soldering.. you didn’t tin the iron and you don’t put the iron on top and poke it with the wire!! Iron under and wire on top ! Your iron seems to be slow/crap and ur doing it wrong
How to you solder a solid 10 gauge?
You could put them parallel and lash them, but you must be thinking of home AC wiring because there's no DIY applications to mod solid core 10 ga and in that case, it won't meet code. If you have two ends of solid 10 gauge you need a junction box, and nut or terminal strip, etc - consult your local electrical codes or really to even ask that, please don't mess with solid core 10 ga wire at all.
Uncle Deek watch this: Flite Test - Solder Thick Gauge Wire - FAST TIP
Yeah looks super strong, thanks! May I know what size wire is that and how many watts soldering iron you used?
FIRST YOU SHOULD USE A HOTTER IRON, SECOND PUT FLUX ON WIRE BEFORE HEAT SOLDER WILL FLOW MUCH BETTER.
just use copper tubing, and crimp both ends.
I always melt the crap out of the wires plastic. I suck!
His wire insulation is silicone, that's the only reason he didn't have a molten then charred mess with that method which takes way too long too much heat just wrong altogether.
that means your on the wire to long, might want a higher watt solder iron. seems counter intuitive but a hotter iron will get you in n out before the heat spreads.
Can 2 solid wires like twin and earth be soldered?
what is your soldering iron wattage?
my 50 watt suck
aslo what the % of your Solder ?
Look a'dat, look a'dat. yeah how do you splice a 2 gauge wire without cutting the wire, to add another battery in the circuit?
.... because it is............................................................................................................................................................ bigger.
All of that extra solder is traveling up the length of the wire and you are going to be left with two stiff sections of wire that will act as a "lever" arm setting the distal ends of the wire up for mechanical failure and a possible short. This is not a good technique.
I just watched this video, but the solder flowing up into the insulation causing stiff sections of wire is called solder wicking. It is a defect on all 3 classes if it's in a section that is required to remain flexible.
Initially, the solder was touching the pencil which is creating nothing more than a cold solder which will fail at some point. You need a hot solder. The solder needs to melt via a hot wire, not touching the pencil.
Not necessarily true, creating a thermal bridge can speed up initial heat transfer and minimise dwelling time which is better for the the insulation and any components attached to the wires.
It's definitely not unusual to use a thermal bridge to make heat transfer faster when soldering larger parts.
That's some cheap wire
What soldering iron is that?
That is a lot of solder.
That's a lot of heat going to the components on the ends of those wires.
Meh, that is doubtful. I mean the wires have to be joined to something metal or more solder at the other end so they would inherently have to be able to handle "some" heat anyway. It is definitely more of a concern if he was trying to solder that semi-low gauge wire to something with contacts set in plastic, like a barrel connector, or potentiometer, but you wouldn't need that low a gauge of wire for either of those. Components are inherently designed so that the wire gauge they support, could be heated enough to make the solder connection or else the component is intended for a blade connector or some other attachment method instead of solder. When in doubt read the component datasheet. If there is no datasheet then it is probably generic chinese crap and shouldn't be used at all unless the margins are so obviously far beyond any remote chance during use that it seems to be overkill, and even then, it may still fail because crap is crap.
whats a good web site to buy solder and tools from, good prices an quality?
Amazon is my fav and then EBAY
Thanks a bunch for watching
Depends on where you are located, you can shop around like anyone else. For that kind of work, most rosin core solder would work, but for best newbie results, get Kester or Alpha (etc, a major brand not an ebay special) 63/47 rosin core. It runs about $33 per lb currently, but solder prices fluctuate with the metal market.
The first way u acfually soldered was the best overlayed, thats how NASA solders and is NASA certified soldering, dnt believe me look ot up
Nasa is known to lie though.
oh. my. god....
What the hell are you talking about coffee for
Sponsor $$$$$
@@kylemilford5968 Unlikely because of sponsorship from dunkin donuts with only 2.8K subscribers (at the time I write this). That amount of subscribers is great and Dick should be proud. Just not the amount that would get a sponsor out of dunkin. The point of the coffee talk was probably to make conversation, to build rapport with viewers is my guess.
Is that a DIY setup of the alligator clips?
It is a tool available at electronic stores, on Amazon and Ebay.
The helping hands is a must almost all soldering!
Thanks a bunch for watching
What this instument yu use for hold the wire tell me the name plzz
It's called a "helping hand". Some people call it an :"extra hand". .
aka..a Third Hand
You wicked the hell out of that where by not using a heat sink
what awg are those wires?
Living Universe 12 :)
your using the wrong tip for the job, not sure you could use a worse tip
def wrong tip
That is the worse way to solder two wire together. A cat could pull them apart. If you want your wire to have the tensile strength of a single strand of wire go ahead and do it that way. If you want your soldered wire to stay together even when pulled then do a Lineman Splice then solder. The connection will be stronger than the wire itself. This is what Western Union and your electric power company does to repair power lines and telegraph cables.
Felix Su it's called the NASA soldering right?
When I try this, all I get is a black, globby mess, with or without flux.
Jason Austin Thanks for watching man. Your problem is not unusual. Since this video was made I have upgraded to a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station for less than $100.The biggest mistake new people soldering is the wrong iron & tips, solder and flux.
You have to have enough heat and the right kind of solder. At Radio Shack you can get Led solder with rosin core. Too much heat and the flux burns away leaving a black globy mess. I will do some more soldering videos soon.
***** That is inncorrect. That is due to either too much rosin core or too bigger lead dia size. Jason Austin Need lead rosin core sized 1 mm dia. I'm pretty sure Jason have right soldering if it is 12 AWG or higher.
+Jason Austin you probably melted through the casing
Way to much solder,that connection would build up way to much resistance!
Do not make how to videos if you don’t know how to do it yourself
wtf is sodder, is it like solder or what ?
I know, like aluminum and like buddy off cake boss, fon-dont (as in fondant icing for cakes)
Well, aluminum is correct, unless you're a Brit
Is it Solder or Sodder as you were saying?
US is soodder in other countries they say solder
No can bitch about that great job👍 them that say bad about this there just like jealous, they can’t do as great job,
You are the Man Charlie!!!
Thanks a bunch for watchin
lolz that aint big, try 8AWG :P
lolz in what I do 8 gauge is my speaker wire. Try double 0 gauge.
@@PoopyButt7 00 electrical wire is not soldered. Period.
good one dick, if shrink tubing goes on it then it looks like it never was cut at all. have you done one x60 battery terminal and the opposite terminal for Esc, please
I will continue the series
Thanks for watching
D
really too much
ل
Some people have a voice made for videos, you do not
way too long solder process you need a hotter iron so you dont need to hold the heat on so long. if there was electronics on the wires they where ruined
Need more heat. The solder should be touched to the wire, not the iron. The solder should flow from the hot wire to the iron, not from the hot iron to the cold wire. The properly heated wire will "suck" the solder toward the hot iron.