I see 3 things that should be revisited, the first one is the oil pressure plastic tubing, at least install a rigid steel or cunifer tube up to near the engine mount then a -3 steel braided PTFE hose from that tube up to the pressure tap on the block, the plastic line will fail and cause you a possible engine disaster and the inner diameter of that plastic tube is too small to provide a reasonably fast response of your mechanical gauge, the second one is your engine mounts, usually, the best setup is to use the original engine mounts, these generic mounts are rigid and transmits the engine vibrations to the structure of the car, this car is unit body construction so it will be uncomfortable, finally, the alternator mount, when it is possible, the best location for an accessory is the nearest possible of the crankshaft rotation center so the the engine rocking vibration of the engine will not tear out the brackets. The alternator can charge on either side of rotation so a possible location is to reverse it so the pulley can face backward ( toward the firewall ) Glabally, this swap is about the best one that can be done on that car, globally a broader torque curve ,a smoother running engine, an engine that weight about the same of the original, fuel economy as good if not better than the original and reliability as a bonus. Very good job on that car.
I see you got the driveshaft in already did you use combination u joints? I am doing the same conversion and I just test fitted my driveshaft and length is good just have to change to the front yoke is that what you did? Thank you for any advice
I got a local shop make my drive shaft to a local shop. They made it to the length I gave them and they supplied the slip yoke to the gearbox. Balanced and ready to install. Bit expensive but worth getting it right. Thanks for watching
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I see 3 things that should be revisited, the first one is the oil pressure plastic tubing, at least install a rigid steel or cunifer tube up to near the engine mount then a -3 steel braided PTFE hose from that tube up to the pressure tap on the block, the plastic line will fail and cause you a possible engine disaster and the inner diameter of that plastic tube is too small to provide a reasonably fast response of your mechanical gauge, the second one is your engine mounts, usually, the best setup is to use the original engine mounts, these generic mounts are rigid and transmits the engine vibrations to the structure of the car, this car is unit body construction so it will be uncomfortable, finally, the alternator mount, when it is possible, the best location for an accessory is the nearest possible of the crankshaft rotation center so the the engine rocking vibration of the engine will not tear out the brackets. The alternator can charge on either side of rotation so a possible location is to reverse it so the pulley can face backward ( toward the firewall )
Glabally, this swap is about the best one that can be done on that car, globally a broader torque curve ,a smoother running engine, an engine that weight about the same of the original, fuel economy as good if not better than the original and reliability as a bonus.
Very good job on that car.
Any chance You have the part number from the bracket. My friend pick up a project MGB with the same setup minus the bracket.
Do you have any pictures of the engine mounts and how they work. Also how did you install them.
next video I will show the mounts close up and how they are fitted
I see you got the driveshaft in already did you use combination u joints? I am doing the same conversion and I just test fitted my driveshaft and length is good just have to change to the front yoke is that what you did? Thank you for any advice
I got a local shop make my drive shaft to a local shop. They made it to the length I gave them and they supplied the slip yoke to the gearbox. Balanced and ready to install. Bit expensive but worth getting it right. Thanks for watching