Great video, but I would recommend using gloves, masks, and glasses (ppe) when working with resin because it is toxic. A wash and cure the station for cleaning the wrint would also be good.
And definitely look up some comprehensive guides for safety and postprocessing tips so you aren't getting your only health and safety info from the comments! There's a lot you can do with resin, I'm excited to see you fall down the rabbit hole of custom resin mixes and temperature controlled printing and postcuring
Thanks dude! I always try to make the final vid pretty polished and to-the-point. I just use my iPhone for filming but did get a little podcast mic a couple months back :>
These kinds of structures make more sense a) at lower scales b) made out of ceramics. They are usually resin printed, but at far lower scale, and then shrunk by pyrolysis, or coated by some deposition process and completely burned out. Alternatively, chemical self assembly is some times used. biggest problem with them is scaling them up, IMO, because with self assembly you get defects and with pyrolysis you are limited by build area of the machine and perhaps other things I'm not aware of. holy grail is getting these down to the nanoscales where you start to exclude defects just due the size, crazy mechanical properties measured there... In tiny samples. Womp womp.
@@abowden556 it’s true! And metals can do a chaotic replication of some of these by just introducing bubbles via gas injection to create metal foam that is also really strong, but none the less ik excited to check out how these behave! I’m definitely going to scale em down; was wanting to confirm that this larger scale could be printed and show properly before scaling down and seeing how tiny my new printer can go
@@oljimgrizzigsby Maybe? I'm a ways off yet from metallurgy in my workshop. I've got a welder but that's it. I'd like to get CNC / and some furnace or something could be dope
Keep the old resin bottle when its empty for pouring the resin back into. Generally its a bad practice to put chemicals and such back into a partially full bottle of fresh material because you risk contamination. Its allways a good idea to put them into a different bottle.
I'm sure this is great for ppl looking to start Resin printing, but I'm locked into what experiments your run on those lattices, will you be making a follow up video on just those with ballistic tests?
Yes totally! Just started Resin Printing and wanted to show others how easy it was to get started, but I will show these and their variations performing against 22 lr and the analysis there
Love the content! I would recommend looking into an ultra sonic cleaner to really purge the resin from the lattice structures. Also keep in mind the duration of the post print UV cure can have a significant effect on the hardness of the print. Can’t wait to see the results of testing!
@@CrashMakerspace personally I wouldn’t recommend it for this use case. It would be difficult to measure the duration and evenness of the cure across the object. You can DIY a cure chamber pretty cheaply. For mine I use ended up picking up some UV (black light)(385-400nm) tape from Amazon for about 12.00 and a rotating display stand for about 10.00. I happens to have some mirrors laying around so I used a glass cutter to make my wall panels however you can use pretty much any reflective material. Then I just 3D printed some corner brackets. The main advantages of having a cure chamber over sunlight in this application is you can experiment with different controlled cure times unaffected by outside factors as well as knowing you have the best shot at a even consistent cure. Oh also any UV light should would as long as it’s with in 365 to 405 nm range. Hope this helps, feel free if you have other questions !
Do yourself a favor: Instead of Isopropyl alcohol, use Ethyl. Usually available as "Methylated spirits" or "Denaturead alcohol," Klean Strip is a readily available brand at most hardware or camping stores. The smell is marginally less pungent, and it cleans prints SIGNIFICANTLY better. I used to go through liters of isopropyl at a time and still have a tacky finish on the surface of the parts once they'd been cured. Ethyl leaves you with a smooth, clean finish, even if it's been re-used a few times. Price per liter is generally comparable between the two. Other advice: I bought a few wash bottles (like they use at tattoo parlors) for the alcohol, which lets you apply a pressure stream to help dislodge liquid resin from stubborn areas, and ACF release film is 100% worth the cost. Print quality with ACF film is marginally lower than FEP or nFEP, but it virtually eliminates pancaking and layer delamination, and honestly most people will never notice the difference in print quality.
Resin is cool. I actually went the other way. I started with resin because I wanted to make miniatures and just recently got my first filament printer. Having both is so great since they are good at different things. The day to day printing with resin is more work for sure. But on the other hand resin printers are extremely low maintenance. I'm constantly doing this or that to my fdm printer. They just have so much going on in comparison. I've never had to take my Saturn S apart ever... Whereas I'm intimately familiar with every piece of my creality k1c since I've probably disassembled the hot end 10 times since I've had it
I know you can get ceramic resins, really can stand up to heat. Would be a cool idea to build an arm mounted flame thrower from it. I'd love to see different thickness testing to avoid getting burnt as well.
I'll pass on the PPE sermon. It is important but can get a little preachy. But on the difficult to remove prints, that's a sign of too long of a bottom layer burn in time. Just start to reduce the 30-second default down until it's easy to remove but still strong enough to hold through the entire print. I generally decrease in 5 second intervals, but you can probably drop 10 seconds right off the bat. Every resin can be a little different, too. I won't get into calibration or tuning the normal layer times, but that's something to look into as well. Calibration is super important if you start getting failures.
I'll definitely try this, thanks for the practical tips on that! The two prints I tried before heading off on vacation were crazy stuck even after heatgun'ing em
Very cool! As an engineer who has used both resin and FDM printing for a while, it is interesting to see someone coming from a lot of FDM printing experience try resin, they really are such different tools. You definitely can get more ductile and less brittle prints though, by managing temperature, UV exposure time and strength, and by mixing specialty resins. Since the resin is liquid, you can mix different varieties to tune your properties, though it is a lot of trial and error. Definitely look up some resources on resin safety and post-processing. You can actually change the toughness/ductility to hardness ratio by the way you postprocess, (Changing the amount and intensity of uv exposure after cleaning, and also by heating it while postcuring. CNC Kitchen has a video on this which I'll link if I can: ruclips.net/video/886X2geCRrA/видео.htmlsi=QJJLMDBboB3ntzgl Also, it pains me so much to see you get uncured resin all over the inside of your printer, definitely make sure that all gets cleaned up before it gets exposed to UV, ands especially dont let resin get between the screen and the vat!
I've made more lattice structures for ballistic tests, when I get back from vacation, and I'm looking into some curing stations for those! Thanks for the extra info too
A couple of things: Resin is toxic and VOCs produced during printing are no good for health, please use propper ppe, that being gloves and a raspirator or fume extraction system. Secondly after you print i highly recommend you wash your prints with IPA or methylated spirits, and then cure the print under UV light so there's no liquid resin left on the print. Lastly please calibrate your exposure time so that supports are easy to peel off
Perfect! Yes, I've now got gloves & respirator next to the machine and am looking to get a curing station for em. I'll check out the methylated spirits!
Congrats on the new printer. Remove supports before curing and theyll come off a lot easier. You may be able to lower your bottom layer exposure to make it a bit easier to remove from the plate. Also you need to run exposure tests. Go look up cones of calibration from tableflip foundry I hate to sound like that guy but Dude. No gloves? With enough exposure you WILL develop an allergy preventing you from resin printing without practically wearing a hazmat suit. Grinding that shit is really nasty without a respirator let alone breathing that stuff in. You will regret it if you live long enough and you can't breath.
That's a great tip with reducing exposure for the base supports, thanks! And totally will do, thankfully I just did these two little prints and nothing else before heading off on a trip so just the once, I'll be certain to use full PPE for all my other tests. Thanks for the write-up man!
Hi, I am a big Batman fan as well and love the Videos. Where do you get your Infomation from? Like how did you construct this structures and how did you came up with the Battery Pack (it is amazing btw.)? Where do you start with your research?
It's going to be included with my research analysis to show you in a video this Fall! I'm primarily designing multi-shot systems and one thing about NN fluids is they still leak out once a hole is created but I plan to do many different cubes to test em all for a good set of results to analyze!
Please please get a proper wash+cure machine and get proper gloves and PPE. Printer resin is so deceptive because it starts off seemingly harmless but it wont take much exposure to develop a serious allergy. I've had some pretty bad resin burns from just a couple months using one irresponsibly and I at least had gloves. Safety aside, I'd like to see what kind of stab resistance you can get with diy materials like this. I live somewhere with rising knife crime but very strict weapon laws, so I'm thinking subtle under your clothing armour might be something thats worth wearing out and about.
I kinda doubt it would make any noticeable difference with the brightness of the screen, but there is a plastic film still on it that it looks like you didn't remove (at least not by 6:50 in the video)
Oh god, pouring resin on the machine, on the table, in your hands. What's going on there? Sure you can get started in 5 minutes from getting the box. But man, maybe spend half an hour setting up a workplace?
@@timonix2 yea I totally should go tidier but I was determined to get that video out the evening after work 😂 my eyes are red at the end of this vid cause it was like 1am
I do have sponsors where I get some equipment given like this printer! I'm pretty picky though and only accept deals for stuff that I actually have on my docket to buy or add to the workshop. No "Super Shadow Legends" and other corny game ads for my channel 😅
Watching you handle raw resin without PPE and without propperly washing & curing the part afterwards is horrifying. Please look into how toxic resin is and how to propperly protect yourself. Even the fumes are awful let alone it getting on your skin. Also id reccomend looking into ceramic resins, you can print with them and then cook them to make ceramic parts may be useful for ceramic plates with a textile backing for amour.
Thanks! Yea I was rushing here and everything since this video I've had full gloves on and got an air filter as well :) I'd love ceramic resin, the stuff I was seeing was hundreds of dollars for a little bit haha; I'm thinking 3D metal printing might be a cheaper initial option
*Your videos are extremely interesting & educational. *Look up a fellow inventor like yourself. A thrifty Canadian who thought of, designed and built entire suits from materials he incorporated to be both bulletproof and fireproof, suits that could protect you in battle and against a grizzly bear. Troy Hurtubise was his name.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Bigger In Texas [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QxTkZTLWdo4/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, but I would recommend using gloves, masks, and glasses (ppe) when working with resin because it is toxic. A wash and cure the station for cleaning the wrint would also be good.
Extremely toxic, can't be Batman if you don't take care of your health. Wear PPE
I was rushing to get this video out before a trip and good thing I posted this for the real time safety tips 😅
An emergency eye wash kit would also be a good idea.
Last thing you want to be doing if you somehow get stuff in your eyes is to be looking for it.
Came here to say the same. We’ll need an old Batman, as well as a young one.
And definitely look up some comprehensive guides for safety and postprocessing tips so you aren't getting your only health and safety info from the comments! There's a lot you can do with resin, I'm excited to see you fall down the rabbit hole of custom resin mixes and temperature controlled printing and postcuring
Love it dude. Please get a wash and cure station for your resin prints. Its an essential part of finishing your resin prints
@@MrRedPortal30 im working on getting one for my next video! I’ve got a couple lattices printed and in a dark room until those arrive
9:55 love the broken shoes Ive seen them in so many videos its like a tradition
😂 I keep wearing em cause they're comfy and can't get any worse, so I don't care if I get glue and stuff over em
Love the progress, hoping that this can be implemented with your future projects!
I'm going to try to get it as the backface for each plate to support the hard composites and see how that works!
Love the quality of the Mic camera and editing this is amazing!
Thanks dude! I always try to make the final vid pretty polished and to-the-point. I just use my iPhone for filming but did get a little podcast mic a couple months back :>
@@CrashMakerspacebeen here since day 1 and it looks amazing! The editing on point Def worth the wait between videos
@@theender6449 I appreciate you man, the channel is coming a long way!
That's funny that you prefer the orange over the green because my resin printer has an orange case that I wish was green 😂
@@Green__Man we gotta trade 😂
you gotta trade
Your channel is way underrated man. Your builds are awesome. Keep this up and you'll rival Hacksmith.
I appreciate this dude! Just one project at a time :p
These kinds of structures make more sense a) at lower scales b) made out of ceramics. They are usually resin printed, but at far lower scale, and then shrunk by pyrolysis, or coated by some deposition process and completely burned out. Alternatively, chemical self assembly is some times used. biggest problem with them is scaling them up, IMO, because with self assembly you get defects and with pyrolysis you are limited by build area of the machine and perhaps other things I'm not aware of.
holy grail is getting these down to the nanoscales where you start to exclude defects just due the size, crazy mechanical properties measured there... In tiny samples. Womp womp.
@@abowden556 it’s true! And metals can do a chaotic replication of some of these by just introducing bubbles via gas injection to create metal foam that is also really strong, but none the less ik excited to check out how these behave! I’m definitely going to scale em down; was wanting to confirm that this larger scale could be printed and show properly before scaling down and seeing how tiny my new printer can go
@CrashMakerspace do you think you could use ultrasonics to cavitiate liquid metal as it cools to form the metal foam? vacuum-bubble metal foam?
@@oljimgrizzigsby Maybe? I'm a ways off yet from metallurgy in my workshop. I've got a welder but that's it. I'd like to get CNC / and some furnace or something could be dope
super cool definitely looking forward to you making those cool lattices to support and strengthen the amour
I've gotten the models created! Just gotta print em out now :p
Keep the old resin bottle when its empty for pouring the resin back into. Generally its a bad practice to put chemicals and such back into a partially full bottle of fresh material because you risk contamination. Its allways a good idea to put them into a different bottle.
I'm sure this is great for ppl looking to start Resin printing, but I'm locked into what experiments your run on those lattices, will you be making a follow up video on just those with ballistic tests?
Yeah thats what I'm the most interested in as well.
Yes totally! Just started Resin Printing and wanted to show others how easy it was to get started, but I will show these and their variations performing against 22 lr and the analysis there
Love the content! I would recommend looking into an ultra sonic cleaner to really purge the resin from the lattice structures. Also keep in mind the duration of the post print UV cure can have a significant effect on the hardness of the print.
Can’t wait to see the results of testing!
Great tips! You think just setting em outside is good for an afternoon? I could look into UV cure stations too
@@CrashMakerspace personally I wouldn’t recommend it for this use case. It would be difficult to measure the duration and evenness of the cure across the object. You can DIY a cure chamber pretty cheaply. For mine I use ended up picking up some UV (black light)(385-400nm) tape from Amazon for about 12.00 and a rotating display stand for about 10.00. I happens to have some mirrors laying around so I used a glass cutter to make my wall panels however you can use pretty much any reflective material. Then I just 3D printed some corner brackets.
The main advantages of having a cure chamber over sunlight in this application is you can experiment with different controlled cure times unaffected by outside factors as well as knowing you have the best shot at a even consistent cure.
Oh also any UV light should would as long as it’s with in 365 to 405 nm range.
Hope this helps, feel free if you have other questions !
@@timothylasasso7079 Awesome dude! Thanks a ton for sharing your tips, I'll look into some of these options
Do yourself a favor: Instead of Isopropyl alcohol, use Ethyl. Usually available as "Methylated spirits" or "Denaturead alcohol," Klean Strip is a readily available brand at most hardware or camping stores.
The smell is marginally less pungent, and it cleans prints SIGNIFICANTLY better. I used to go through liters of isopropyl at a time and still have a tacky finish on the surface of the parts once they'd been cured. Ethyl leaves you with a smooth, clean finish, even if it's been re-used a few times.
Price per liter is generally comparable between the two.
Other advice: I bought a few wash bottles (like they use at tattoo parlors) for the alcohol, which lets you apply a pressure stream to help dislodge liquid resin from stubborn areas, and ACF release film is 100% worth the cost. Print quality with ACF film is marginally lower than FEP or nFEP, but it virtually eliminates pancaking and layer delamination, and honestly most people will never notice the difference in print quality.
Resin is cool. I actually went the other way. I started with resin because I wanted to make miniatures and just recently got my first filament printer. Having both is so great since they are good at different things. The day to day printing with resin is more work for sure. But on the other hand resin printers are extremely low maintenance. I'm constantly doing this or that to my fdm printer. They just have so much going on in comparison. I've never had to take my Saturn S apart ever... Whereas I'm intimately familiar with every piece of my creality k1c since I've probably disassembled the hot end 10 times since I've had it
@@justintime5021 yep, resin is so messy, but FDM often needs more tuning
I know you can get ceramic resins, really can stand up to heat. Would be a cool idea to build an arm mounted flame thrower from it. I'd love to see different thickness testing to avoid getting burnt as well.
@@mastasolo true! Those could be some more cool tests to run
I'll pass on the PPE sermon. It is important but can get a little preachy. But on the difficult to remove prints, that's a sign of too long of a bottom layer burn in time. Just start to reduce the 30-second default down until it's easy to remove but still strong enough to hold through the entire print. I generally decrease in 5 second intervals, but you can probably drop 10 seconds right off the bat. Every resin can be a little different, too. I won't get into calibration or tuning the normal layer times, but that's something to look into as well. Calibration is super important if you start getting failures.
I'll definitely try this, thanks for the practical tips on that! The two prints I tried before heading off on vacation were crazy stuck even after heatgun'ing em
Very cool!
As an engineer who has used both resin and FDM printing for a while, it is interesting to see someone coming from a lot of FDM printing experience try resin, they really are such different tools. You definitely can get more ductile and less brittle prints though, by managing temperature, UV exposure time and strength, and by mixing specialty resins. Since the resin is liquid, you can mix different varieties to tune your properties, though it is a lot of trial and error.
Definitely look up some resources on resin safety and post-processing. You can actually change the toughness/ductility to hardness ratio by the way you postprocess, (Changing the amount and intensity of uv exposure after cleaning, and also by heating it while postcuring. CNC Kitchen has a video on this which I'll link if I can: ruclips.net/video/886X2geCRrA/видео.htmlsi=QJJLMDBboB3ntzgl
Also, it pains me so much to see you get uncured resin all over the inside of your printer, definitely make sure that all gets cleaned up before it gets exposed to UV, ands especially dont let resin get between the screen and the vat!
I've made more lattice structures for ballistic tests, when I get back from vacation, and I'm looking into some curing stations for those! Thanks for the extra info too
A couple of things:
Resin is toxic and VOCs produced during printing are no good for health, please use propper ppe, that being gloves and a raspirator or fume extraction system. Secondly after you print i highly recommend you wash your prints with IPA or methylated spirits, and then cure the print under UV light so there's no liquid resin left on the print. Lastly please calibrate your exposure time so that supports are easy to peel off
Perfect! Yes, I've now got gloves & respirator next to the machine and am looking to get a curing station for em. I'll check out the methylated spirits!
Congrats on the new printer. Remove supports before curing and theyll come off a lot easier. You may be able to lower your bottom layer exposure to make it a bit easier to remove from the plate. Also you need to run exposure tests. Go look up cones of calibration from tableflip foundry
I hate to sound like that guy but Dude.
No gloves? With enough exposure you WILL develop an allergy preventing you from resin printing without practically wearing a hazmat suit.
Grinding that shit is really nasty without a respirator let alone breathing that stuff in. You will regret it if you live long enough and you can't breath.
That's a great tip with reducing exposure for the base supports, thanks! And totally will do, thankfully I just did these two little prints and nothing else before heading off on a trip so just the once, I'll be certain to use full PPE for all my other tests. Thanks for the write-up man!
Your personal protective equipment practices in this video make me cry.
Not my best start up, but I was too locked in to get these prints & video out before my vacation 😂
Hi, I am a big Batman fan as well and love the Videos. Where do you get your Infomation from? Like how did you construct this structures and how did you came up with the Battery Pack (it is amazing btw.)? Where do you start with your research?
Second what everyone is saying… PPE!!! Resin is some bad shit
Have you considered filling those cavities with a non newtonian fluid like ooblek
It's going to be included with my research analysis to show you in a video this Fall! I'm primarily designing multi-shot systems and one thing about NN fluids is they still leak out once a hole is created but I plan to do many different cubes to test em all for a good set of results to analyze!
Please please get a proper wash+cure machine and get proper gloves and PPE. Printer resin is so deceptive because it starts off seemingly harmless but it wont take much exposure to develop a serious allergy. I've had some pretty bad resin burns from just a couple months using one irresponsibly and I at least had gloves.
Safety aside, I'd like to see what kind of stab resistance you can get with diy materials like this. I live somewhere with rising knife crime but very strict weapon laws, so I'm thinking subtle under your clothing armour might be something thats worth wearing out and about.
I've definitely scaled up my PPE for this, oh and check my most recent video on more tests that I've done with these tubulanes via ballistics as well
I kinda doubt it would make any noticeable difference with the brightness of the screen, but there is a plastic film still on it that it looks like you didn't remove (at least not by 6:50 in the video)
I actually took it off lol, the screen is just smudge as its one of those dual capacitor film screens
W vid
Nice
Good video. engagement.... engagement.... lol.
My brother in Christ you just lift the whole item out of the cardboard box, then pop off the polystyrene in the top and bottom vertically…
Oh god, pouring resin on the machine, on the table, in your hands. What's going on there? Sure you can get started in 5 minutes from getting the box. But man, maybe spend half an hour setting up a workplace?
@@timonix2 yea I totally should go tidier but I was determined to get that video out the evening after work 😂 my eyes are red at the end of this vid cause it was like 1am
Were you sponsored by lowes or something? Those cabinets seem pretty pricey. Then again im the kind of guy to just use junk shop cabinets.
I do have sponsors where I get some equipment given like this printer! I'm pretty picky though and only accept deals for stuff that I actually have on my docket to buy or add to the workshop. No "Super Shadow Legends" and other corny game ads for my channel 😅
Watching you handle raw resin without PPE and without propperly washing & curing the part afterwards is horrifying. Please look into how toxic resin is and how to propperly protect yourself. Even the fumes are awful let alone it getting on your skin. Also id reccomend looking into ceramic resins, you can print with them and then cook them to make ceramic parts may be useful for ceramic plates with a textile backing for amour.
Thanks! Yea I was rushing here and everything since this video I've had full gloves on and got an air filter as well :) I'd love ceramic resin, the stuff I was seeing was hundreds of dollars for a little bit haha; I'm thinking 3D metal printing might be a cheaper initial option
*Your videos are extremely interesting & educational.
*Look up a fellow inventor like yourself. A thrifty Canadian who thought of, designed and built entire suits from materials he incorporated to be both bulletproof and fireproof, suits that could protect you in battle and against a grizzly bear.
Troy Hurtubise was his name.
@@k.c.3567 cool! I’ll give him a look up