The Ridge: This Tool Didn’t Work As Planned. [#8]
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- A 7,000SF footprint tucked in the hills of California goes from slab to beautifully framed. Watch and follow along as we turn this pile of concrete into a masterpiece! Hand cut roof, redwood decks and insane details, you won’t want to miss it.
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#construction #homebuilding #building
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![The Ridge: Deck Framing, Using Jigs for Tails, Shear Panel Tips [#9]](/img/tr.png)
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It is a great little router for the right application, which is not hogging out OSB.
Where are your work,and tôi need worker
He's missing the plunging base, which the corded saw had
It's a finish router, never made for that kind if abuse. Same thing as buying a Honda civic then calling it a piece of crap because it's not fit to tow a trailer
Anything with a 1/4" shank is not up to the task you are expecting of it. This is a small trim router that is more of a lightweight finesse tool. It is awesome for it's intended purpose. Eventually they will come out with a 36v version with a 1/2" shank ability that will do what you need it to. This one is made for finish carpentry.
As well as dry wall. Lol
well... he's trying to run through 1/2" OSB with a cordless finish router. Would be faster with a dull hacksaw blade and no handle.
I love that router! The DeWalt one more. BUT --- for finish and exterior trim work.......!
I'm sure someone else already pointed it out, but ALL cordless routers are for trim work. While you can use them to hog out material; you have to work slower cause the batteries can't sustain the high energy requirement.
You guys are awesome! Fast workers with quality work!
THANKS FOR THE INFORNATION VIDEO. I AM BUILDING A CABIN, AND THESE VIDEOS REALLY HELP.
CECE FROM TEXAS.
I love my little makita routers but they are not for hogging out material like that! Great video as ever Matt!
Yup. Matt expected way too much from a trim router in this instance.
Well, the Dewalt can do it supposedly. I did expect too much, well see with the Dewalt!
@@MattBangsWood the dewalt may do it, but that doesnt mean its intended for it, or will last long with that kind of working load. Dont blame ya for trying, but you're trying to log a forest with a pruning saw here
I use it very often and it’s the best on the market for but definitely not for that kind of use.
What happened to the cheap Ryobi ?
Oh no!!! It has nothing to with with the router!!! Don't think that!
You want a Spiral Flush Trim Bit Up Cut 1/4"
Or
Spiral Flush Trim Bit Down Cut 1/4"
another great video. Thanks!
My guy breaking 100K subs. Thanks for the content man.
Great advice on rentals. Especially if you own the equipment. Always keep it in the bid
Some people are not meant to have good stuff orr the ability to read and understand instructions. Its a trim router and your using it on osb with an inch deep pass. Very smart!
Tell that to the guys online claiming it’ll do it. I’m just debunking claims. 🤷♂️
Hey Matt, I love your videos there extremely informative and realistic!!! But Please do me a favor though and make sure you guys keep the forks for your lift on the ground when it’s parked!! Keep the videos coming!!👍🏾👍🏾
Lol I used to get yelled at all the time by my supervisor about floating forks
Anything that makes the job easier and faster is well worth it. Doesn't matter how much it costs. Gotta spend money to make money.
I saw your mistake as soon as you put that sheet up lol I was like wait that’s too small of a sheet. I’ve done that mistake as well lol daydreaming goes a long way 😂😂
I've used porta cable routers no problem... not cordless....but action for tasks like that.
I use the corded version for my projects. Makita as well
As always, a great video.
I love watching your videos I been watching off and on for 3 yrs now and I been trynna get into the trade but I get turned down every time I try because I don't have a vehicle witch sucks. If I could just get to work I could get one. I have all my tools and have some knowledge in the trade but that one thing stops me. Anyways I still love watching your videos because I learn more and more every time
The way you handle a router, the type of cuts you make, you need a porter cable. Try the 893PK with 1/2" shank carbide bit. Hold on tight... no more one handed reaching off the fourth step on a six foot ladder.
Get this 1/2" shank flush trim up cut bit for the PC 893PK from Whiteside: stays sharp: RFT5125
Porter cable 3-1/4 hp plunge, you can almost run with it. Mine is 20 years old, can’t kill it
thanks for your knowledge you get me thinking in a better way!! Keep up the great work !!
I think Fox is the best at nailing, too! 😁 (I couldn't resist)
That dude is slower than molasses in January
Hell yeah brother! Love your content bro
I used that to cut all my windows out and trim all my plywood. Used a Whiteside spiral bit. Whiteside bits rule!
having that lift on site is the way to go.
Like the progress & so very true about equipment....
That router is great.........for MDF
Osb on that beautiful house!!! Plywood is the way to go
He's not the designer. He probably didn't make that decision.
You’re using the wrong router bit for cutting out windows. You want to use this bit. I have it and it works like a charm. Buy a couple and you’ll be gold. Whiteside Router Bit RFT2100
Nice Work and Videos 👌 greetings from Germany
Love the video!
We use a Scheer router for our windows and doors and it makes light work of it!
Pricey but it pays itself off after several projects. ✌️
smart man. only makita tools. kick ass. more stabila please. and more makita for life.
17:52 nice cut he was about to jump to get the last nail at the top of the sheet lol
The milwaukee router is pretty awesome it ate though osb like nothin.
so far only used it on ply with a up twist bit was so slick just loved it
Hay Matt you and your mate are doing a great job you look like me after cutting wood all dusted keep up the good work from mad max 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙😎😎😎😎😎👌👌👌👌sweet
We use the router for windows try the electric makita it has a trigger not just a on/off switch which is a lot safer for framing
Bro I have to agree with the wrong tool for the job crowd. My Dewalt trim router with a flex volt 20 amp battery will not handle that cut, but my Porter Cable 1.75 hp router will work without a hiccup until the bit dulls. Be sure to lube the collet because the heat will try to weld it to the bit.
Could you talk about getting an apprenticeship in one of talks at the end? What do you need to get one? How do you find one? Etc.
Will do soon! :)
Fox appears tone the ultimate employee; he knows what he is doing, is quick in what he does and doesn't hang back to help. You don't show much of the other guys doing their bit so maybe you could include a piece showing them working the deck etc and either they or you can explain their procedure.
Porter Cable doesn't have a bad router. We do build are walls laying down plywood and tyvek all on the floor. Route and all then stand.
SUBBED, I've been curious about the Makita laminate router, kinda figured it was lighter duty. Thanks so much
I would use a 3/8 plunge single flute spiral on the biggest router you can get. That trim router kept going into thermal overload protection.
I use that same router to do the same works fine down cut spiral flush cut bit
Sounds like next equipment purchase is a flatbed goose neck trailer and a pickup big enuf to tow it.
Had to have had a thousand of these by now but. That is for trim. you'll find the dewalt one will yield the same results.
I'll tell ya this for free - none of the cordless routers from the top 3 are going to last long term to that work load.
Theyre compact trim routers meant for rounding over something like countertop edge or doing door hinges. "finishing work". Not for smashing through material.
Awesome tips
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Very good jobs congratulations
I use my dewalt cordless router for cutting windows out all day long. You just need a smaller bit. They make 1/4 bits that work great
You need a different bit you need a spiral up cut bit
Should cut the bottom first. If not, the weight of the cut out will press against the router bit giving it too much load!
I have that Makita router, corded version, and yes, I have to tighten it VERY snug or the bit moves.
We use that kind of router to cut out windows that are covered with drywall. It works pretty good
The makita router you were using is designed for laminate work
I use a sawzall to cut out the windows. Get a framing blade on one and it will cut those windows out fast. :)
Did this with the Milwaukee, and the plunger attachment, it did decent
I've never had makita tools, I've got dewalt tools. I'm not saying get dewalt because every tradespeople have there own preferences.
Great content as always mat 👌 keep up the good work and stay safe
Hey Matt, great video. We use sill gasket to prevent concrete moisture from penetrating the btm plate but what prevents it from penetrating the OSB sheet ends?
I used 3hp’s all my life, and actually just went cordless about 6 months ago. I went with the Milwaukee though, and it’s always paired with a HD 9.0 battery, and i use a whiteline flush bit. Couple of houses on it now. A big reason I bought the cordless is because I saw my self having to router big openings in higher 2nd floors
Does that milwaukee keep up with the 3 hp ? I already run milwaukee so that’s not an issue for me but all I do is frame and if the Milwaukee can’t run like a Corded then I don’t wAnna waste money lol
@@SpaceOfWaste I’ll let you know in a few days Lol i just got one kind of scared now that I watched him go at it with makita
any difference to hanging sheets vertically as opposed to horizontally? Structural integrity and the like?
More or less called out that way, haven't seen horizontally used in person before. Curious the difference myself, as i'm all for different ways of building!
@@MattBangsWood horizontal requires blocking along the seams, your "way" eliminates that, reduces waste and installation time. I'm not a construction guy just a handyman and love to learn from professionals like yourself for my own education. Walls would be different to floors and roofs where you do want it horizontal due to lots of engineering calculations for sheer and loads.
In New England, exterior wall sheathing, regardless of type, I.e. plywood or OSB, is attached with the long side horizontal and joints staggered like a running bond. This is supposed to provide greater lateral resistance to movement. I noticed you guys apply yours with the long side vertical. Must be different codes/practices from one area of the country to another. Nonetheless, I enjoy your videos a bunch. Keep em coming.
We call it a Lull on the east coast. They are 5k a month to rent here, but worth every penny.
Sick vid🔥🌪
Palm routers are designed for finish carpentry work
Anyone have a router suggestion? I’m NOT a hater of Makita, not trying to trash talk tools.. I’m a realist, and people on social media have been bragging about this router being able to route windows.. For the longest time, the only tools I wanted corded were the beam saw and router.. Some people will talk up tools just due to sponsorships, this debunked the router.
Happy Sunday!
BANG ON! 🤘
Milwaukee is where it's at!
Broooo, whasap !!!!! Milwaukee is the best, makita is lighter but is a piece of shit on performance , i dont carry any blue makita or specially yellow tools on my van nor my jobsites i hate dewalt bateries and the yellow itself its forbidden on my workvan,......red milwaukee for all , corded or with batteries , maybe a 2 oranges for the table and mitter saws.
I worked in home depot a while ago and dewalt has lots of marketing lies specially on those 20v tools , their batteries charge to 20v but once you pull the trigger you go to less than 18 v on the actual tool is a scam , i saw it on the corporate testing even makita is better , but the boos is milwaukee ... more expensive but those are though tools.
@@caseymelzo8707 that exactly i just said
The corded one you're using. You're expecting way too much from a trim router. Unfortunately corded is king in this application.
I use my dewalt one all day for that application but the spiral flush cut bit is where it's at
Hey Matt ....thx 4 vid. No offence but saw trim router for trimming openings LOL. That said you gave it a try stood there held it up and said this doesn't work! Honest is good😊 saw your tac and go wall no openings (no openings) who picks up your nailing schedule to code after? Framing looks really tight.... how about drone view at end of each vid to give us all a perspective? Looking forward to you guys cutting the roof system! Thx4 vid and all stay safe man!
Matt there’s just some tools that have to be corded and some cordless in this scenario you need a dewalt happy Routing👍
Seriously dude! That's a laminate trimmer. Trying to rout osb pmsl 🤣🤣🤣
Try a spiral bit, that bit is more for laminate and such. Had the same issue with my cordless Milwaukee then switched to a spiral upcut bit and now she's a beast
The Milwaukee cordless router is the bees knees
Why don`t you use nailers with battery? Positive and negative sides of it? Thanks
I am guessing when they advertised the router as made for trim windows, they had a very different "trimming" in mind. I own one.
Just a thought have you ever place a large electric air compressor in your trailer and run a large air line to a manifold to connect your air tools. Great job in building this house.
lol, it's a cordless trim router, what did you expect. keep using the 1/2 inch corded stuff for what you do.
you can probably try the 40v router, but those compact routers are not meant for this kind of job
Hey Matt what happened to the cordless wormdrive skillsaw
How many hours per build do you think you use that lift?
Why not use like a rotozip to cut your holes or like tool
My local inspector will not allow any osb furring behind any hdu hold downs.
Doesn't the 1/8" gap throw your sheets off center of your studs once you get 4 or 5 sheets in? Love the channel brother. Thx.
OSB is undersized to account for the recommended gap.
No because each sheet is an 1/8 inch small so that leaves a 1/16 on each side. Once you but two together that's where you get the 1/8th
500 to move lift I pay 145 give or take if over 20 miles it’s 1 dollar a mile extra to get mine moved of if possible I drive it
Looks like fox has a new Diamondback poutch.
The dewalt with a 60 volt battery is awesome.
It must be very cold over there
If you have 12' walls are you stacking horizontal?
Buen trabajo compa
That’s a laminate router or 1/8” radius/ round over. That tool does not suck your idea to use it as a plunge router for framing is ludicrous. But I still love your videos
I want to be clear that my use of this router came from those on social media saying “it’ll router windows!”. I wanted to test that theory, it does not cut windows.. lol
@@MattBangsWood it cuts windows your video proves that
Use a corded and larger router
Hey not in framing or construction at all but possibly switching to it soon as I want to leave cars and mechanical work as a hobby of mine and been watching your videos to see if it is truly something I’d be interested in but my biggest question/confusion is quite often I see you not wearing steel toe boots/shoes (at least doesn’t look like it) and this is the first video I’ve seen where you guys were wearing hard hats. Is it just personal preference or under certain rules? I only ask because the mechanics side of things where I’ve been steel toe boots with a CSA rating (as I’m from Canada) is a MUST no questions about it and would assume this would be a similar situation. Definitely not trying to throw out hate or shade or whatever just kinda caught my eye and am curious
For routers, I don't know but I would recommend a spiral bit rather than a straight bit, I believe Johnathan Katz-Moses (woodworking) has a coupon for BIts%Bits.
Hola buenas tardes desde Los Alcazares ( Murcia ) ESPAÑA, gracias por el video ya me gustaria a mi tener una Router como la que tu tienes de Makita, gracias...............
I use my milwaukee 18v with a 12 ah battery works great.
I've been watching all your videos and you do very good jobs I would like to work with you for a few weeks to learn how to make wooden structures I only work metal structures in New York and I would like to learn in wood
How come you guys use a compresor nail gun and not a battery
One last question. Why not use a coil nailer for your sheathing and decking?
A thinner bit in the router would cut down on drag and would prevent that little router from bogging down
Guess I need to try my M18 router and see how it does
Doing the same.
To late I have already bought one used it once. Porter Cable is always a go to router for me the only downside is your dragon extension cord around
A Dragon cord? I thought they were a myth.
Id say stick with the corded router seems too do the job just fine. That place is coming together very nicely. Can we get a stair stringer layout in a up coming video? Keep up the great work and always Bang on Brother 🤘🇺🇸
Zip board would seem like an easy solution to sheets swelling in rain. In my opinion if you think you're going to run into any crappy weather zip board should be used, especially snow
Which explains why you never see them in Southern (or maybe even Central) California. Even the large suppliers don't carry them.
ZIP has expansion and contraction gaps in the sheathing the same way we do it here. Everything wood will expand.