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“Bollocks, I’ve snapped a hold..... I’ve snapped a hold Neil”. “You’ve snapped a hold, bollocks”. Synchronicity. The sign of well suited climbing partners!!!! Love it!!
to keep on climbing hard, pushing yourself, you know there's alot of things to do in life, there's lying on the beach, reading nice books, drinking coffee, hanging out but yeah more of this please ... what a dude
Great video Txs! Rare to see quality image and story telling which do justice to the challenge that venturing in a new Verdon route presents. In verdon you often loose your bearings and find yourself asking whether you are in the right route or whether the grade is right in the guidebook, even for the 6th and 7th degree. Feels good to see that amazing climbers such as Steve also have to fight ! Very inspiring. I want to go back soon now. Pls post more like this.
When they rapped into that "7b" pitch the had to have known something was up. Looks very cool! Steve grunts on 8b like I grunt on 7b (age 61 though...)
Awesome video ! I wonder, how do you see when a route is going to be more technical instead of powerfull? what are you guys looking for (in the route) before you start it ? (:
I second all of that. Side note: why do we see in climbing videos quickdraws with carabiners faceing in opposite drections? The most safe way is that 1.) the gates of both carabiners point in the same direction and 2.) you place the draw that way, that the rope runs over the spine of the carabiner, not the gate (gate facing away from the direction of climbing). Because if you do 1.) + 2.) the chance is close to 0,00 that the quickdraw or the rope comes undone (also if 3.) don't backclip). Way closer to absolute 0 than with any other "method".
Philipp Puchner I'm not sure I get that, I know your quickdraw gate should face away from the direction you traverse in, but going up, how would the rope unclip?
I'm talking about a quickdraw in the middle of the route, not 2 carabiners next to each other in sport climbing anchors. How did you get that idea? Watch the video and watch closely at all quickdraws: I wrote it before but somehow clicked away so my whole writing with the exact time + good or bad and why is gone. So I jus twrite this overview now. Sometimes the gates of the carabiners of the quickdraws in this video, don't face the same direction! But they should be! Also the gates should face away from the direction of climbing, so that the rope runs obove the spine of the carabiner when moving upwards. In this video, it is not everytime the case. If climbing straight up, it doesn't matter. Also, if you climb slightly to the left or to the right, it should be ok. It is not always possible to keep the directions perfectly, because you choose the direction of the gates when placing the quickdraw. And when you place it, you look up to where the next bolt is and where you approximately climb. But sometimes you climb to the left and to the right side before reachung the next bolt. Or you miscalculated and ended beeing to the other side you thought you'd be. Not extreme danger here. But there are certain places where the bolt is not at an ideal place and you don't want it to fail on any circumstances: Use 2 quickdraws, one to the left and one to the right, or a "safe lock" quickdraw, where both carabiners lock itself and are impossible to unlock itself. I have one of those, I use two Edelrid sliders for that (even the clipping of the rope is quite ok).
is there any evidence the direction of the bolt gate matters? stats on climbing accidents are hard to come by, so i might be mistaken here. but i've at least never come across or heard of bolt gates becoming undone. in terms of 'biggies', the one thing we do see in (almost) every climbing video and (almost) all of us are doing ourselves is climbing w/o a helmet...
Not an epic ascent , not a discovery ! It's only a fantastic training on the greatest VERDON . Way very well equiped , quickdraws in place , static rope in different place , camera , camera man, super sound ! Hihi seemed to be in a movie ! i didn't saw helico , drones and Sylverster Stallone and snow ! Wrong route ????? LOL Very good climbers ,super high quotations ! but too much lies or exaggerations ! Respect for the climbers (strong they are ), respect for the views (they are sublime) but 1/2 a fake for the story. A disappointment to see a training , not a real epic success ascent !
Heading off on your own Euro rock trip? Take BMC Travel Insurance with you.
GET A QUOTE: thebmc.co.uk/insurance
All profits from our travel insurance policies go straight back to the BMC to continue our great work on behalf of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers
“Bollocks, I’ve snapped a hold..... I’ve snapped a hold Neil”.
“You’ve snapped a hold, bollocks”.
Synchronicity. The sign of well suited climbing partners!!!!
Love it!!
to keep on climbing hard, pushing yourself, you know there's alot of things to do in life, there's lying on the beach, reading nice books, drinking coffee, hanging out but yeah more of this please ... what a dude
This is going straight into my list of favourite climbing videos
* Neil grabs the quickdraw *
Steve : "Yeah, that's a good hold.."
Really respect Steve McClure's mentality about climbing. Steve and Neil are two climbing machines! :D
Great video Txs! Rare to see quality image and story telling which do justice to the challenge that venturing in a new Verdon route presents. In verdon you often loose your bearings and find yourself asking whether you are in the right route or whether the grade is right in the guidebook, even for the 6th and 7th degree. Feels good to see that amazing climbers such as Steve also have to fight !
Very inspiring. I want to go back soon now. Pls post more like this.
Great video. The climbing footage, especially in the 8b, is exquisite.
what a great film, thanks! super inspiring guy. awesome footage. longer than 3 mins!! am psyched!
Great ,great, great, great ...and very good images ! Thank you .It is really the " magic Verdon " ! Beautiful ( and SO hard ..)
So Epic. Such an inspiration for grit and determination being the great driving forces in improving
One of the best videos since a long time. Really inspiring.
,,,, no equipment left , oh hang on ,,,, "I'm safe Neil "
then talks about pizza 😂
Love it 🤘
Nice video good to see some climbers like you Having a hard Time like me in a 6b 😉😉
Love this guy.
Just straight up beautiful. Thanks!
"I've earned my tea tonight". Gotta love Steve
best stevie banter ==> 0:35 , 0:50 , 1:33 , 3:58 , 4:24 , 7:34 , 10:15 , 11:38 , 14:23 , 16:58 , 17:20 , 17:52 , 19:04 , 19:50 , 20:56 , 21:23 till end. YOUR WELCOME
Good effort!
Mullac Odw ll
Love me some quality Steve Mac banter!
What an epic adventure!!
At which grade will Steve start to tie his shoes? Fantastic
Neil's face when finishing up that pitch thinking it was a heinous sandbag... lol
Very impressive 👏
Would love to give that route a go one day will be one for the list 😁
Nathan
stellar video! thanks :)
It looks like the image has been rotated, like they are walking on a rock desert with some tree. What a beautiful place!
just gotta love steve mcclure and british sense of humor :D
Missing the days in La palud sur Verdon.. :)
Respect! Great Climb!
Flippin heck, Steve.
21:12 In my heart theyy did it!
Back step central! But awesome video!
how can you make a film on a wrong route?
Thomas Ditsas see above video.
great movie!
20:25 "Is that allowed? Two pizzas in a row...?"
I reckon that when you climb 9B at 46 you eat what the fuck you like...:)
I reckon when he proving to anyone 40+ they can still climb hard or indeed still enjoying climbing at all he's doing a public service
Why « ange et décomposition » was not film ? The route seem amazing
When they rapped into that "7b" pitch the had to have known something was up. Looks very cool! Steve grunts on 8b like I grunt on 7b (age 61 though...)
"Not hope" he says. Someone has been reading the rock warriors way :)
Awesome video ! I wonder, how do you see when a route is going to be more technical instead of powerfull? what are you guys looking for (in the route) before you start it ? (:
Very nice :)
@20:00 could start 50 pages of comments on Mountain Project.
And another 50 on @justbombergear's instagram. Metal on metal is a great start...
Why are the quickdraws already on the wall?
They must’ve placed then when rappelling down the cliff
Nice! I enjoyed.
Steve never ties his schoes or what ? 12:15 for exemple..
Yep Steve never does his laces up.
OK STEVE SAFE!
sick
8b ... with shoes untied. well done sir.
If the route is clipped, how they dont know what it is
Is he climbing this whole thing with his shoes untied?
2cofitb he thought it was 7B.... should have been a walk in the park for him... lol
The heal rand on the anasazi blanco's is so strong that you don't really need laces. :)
Go ed stevie Lad 🤘
same route in 2028 ?
if there's any holds left ! 😜
I second all of that. Side note: why do we see in climbing videos quickdraws with carabiners faceing in opposite drections? The most safe way is that 1.) the gates of both carabiners point in the same direction and 2.) you place the draw that way, that the rope runs over the spine of the carabiner, not the gate (gate facing away from the direction of climbing).
Because if you do 1.) + 2.) the chance is close to 0,00 that the quickdraw or the rope comes undone (also if 3.) don't backclip). Way closer to absolute 0 than with any other "method".
Philipp Puchner I'm not sure I get that, I know your quickdraw gate should face away from the direction you traverse in, but going up, how would the rope unclip?
Philipp Puchner , on an anchor point your gates should face opposite directions, it's in every climbing book I've ever read on anchors.
I'm talking about a quickdraw in the middle of the route, not 2 carabiners next to each other in sport climbing anchors. How did you get that idea?
Watch the video and watch closely at all quickdraws: I wrote it before but somehow clicked away so my whole writing with the exact time + good or bad and why is gone. So I jus twrite this overview now.
Sometimes the gates of the carabiners of the quickdraws in this video, don't face the same direction! But they should be!
Also the gates should face away from the direction of climbing, so that the rope runs obove the spine of the carabiner when moving upwards. In this video, it is not everytime the case.
If climbing straight up, it doesn't matter.
Also, if you climb slightly to the left or to the right, it should be ok.
It is not always possible to keep the directions perfectly, because you choose the direction of the gates when placing the quickdraw. And when you place it, you look up to where the next bolt is and where you approximately climb. But sometimes you climb to the left and to the right side before reachung the next bolt. Or you miscalculated and ended beeing to the other side you thought you'd be. Not extreme danger here.
But there are certain places where the bolt is not at an ideal place and you don't want it to fail on any circumstances: Use 2 quickdraws, one to the left and one to the right, or a "safe lock" quickdraw, where both carabiners lock itself and are impossible to unlock itself. I have one of those, I use two Edelrid sliders for that (even the clipping of the rope is quite ok).
You're right, I didn't catch that the first time, how about those back steps though!
is there any evidence the direction of the bolt gate matters? stats on climbing accidents are hard to come by, so i might be mistaken here. but i've at least never come across or heard of bolt gates becoming undone. in terms of 'biggies', the one thing we do see in (almost) every climbing video and (almost) all of us are doing ourselves is climbing w/o a helmet...
Hah...heel-hooking with tied shoes way over Tokyo....not a recommended situation.
epic groans
We can see your shoes untied in the end of the 8b....
Awesome. Absolute ear rape when you guys shout to one another, but still awesome.
dude. use a compressor on ur audio please. or limiter actually.
Rutones!
:D small mistakes make it.
You're not my dad
nope..
bollocks
Not an epic ascent , not a discovery ! It's only a fantastic training on the greatest VERDON .
Way very well equiped , quickdraws in place , static rope in different place , camera , camera man, super sound ! Hihi seemed to be in a movie ! i didn't saw helico , drones and Sylverster Stallone and snow ! Wrong route ????? LOL
Very good climbers ,super high quotations ! but too much lies or exaggerations !
Respect for the climbers (strong they are ), respect for the views (they are sublime) but 1/2 a fake for the story.
A disappointment to see a training , not a real epic success ascent !
sick