he was right to criticize them on the QR but there were many little issues with the review in general, some of it is kind of mis-information... for example he pointed out that the DD2 seems to be weaker than the competition but he clearly had linearity switched on in the settings... this shows he is using settings on the base without really understanding what they do. linearity reduces power and the peak forces. he also didn't use the quick release correctly, the manual specifically states you must tighten the gold locking ring up enough to nip the rubber before putting on the wheel, putting the wheel on while the gold ring is loose is incorrect. also even though he was happy with the settings and how they felt to drive its pretty clear he does not use the base as a main base and some settings did not make sense for ACC, the interpolation filter for example smoothes the FFB curve to help with games using lower resolution FFB such as iracing, so having interpolation set to 5 works great in iracing but it dampens the detail in a game like ACC which has higher res feedback, setting it to 2-3 would result in far more detail coming through the base. he is also using 100 percent gain in ACC... this introduces clipping to the signal which can be seen in the bottom right (covered by his head), the reason he is using 100 percent gain is because he likes it strong and its not coming through strong because he has the linearity switched on. the detail and power will be far better if he lowers the interpolation and he turns linearity off, he will also eliminate all clipping if he reduces in game gain down to 60 percent and then adjusts the power on his base to his liking... which almost certainly wont be 100 percent anymore lol its a review of a wheelbase by somebody who clearly does not use it as his main base and it shows, settings are subjective ofcourse and if he likes it set up that way then that is absolutely fine however its wrong to suggest the base has less power when he is using settings designed to reduce the power and he does not even know it. the notchiness when turning the wheel is absolutely correct... the poor quick release is absolutely correct. the rest of the review was a little poor and does not represent the wheelbase correctly. i dont say all this as a fanboy or to discredit the guy... i own a DD1 and its my main base, i have a thousand hours or so in ACC and im good enough (i can do a 1.47.7 on monza for example in a honda). im just pointing out where the review stumbles for me, it was a positive review in general but much of it was puzzling.
@@TheMatziking not at all mate, the only reason i have not sold my fanatec stuff is because they have a new QR on the way and im also interested in the upcoming bmw GT4 wheel. i take a lot of issue with my fanatec stuff, i hate the quick release even though its working fine for me now and they have software issues that have been around for over a year like fanatec recommends NOT using the ITM display on the wheelbase because it causes random jolts in the feedback... that has been an issue for over a year and they know about it. so not a fanboy, not a shareholder... nothing of the kind but i feel something has to be said when a review points out issues that are not quite correct.
@@jinx20001 i have jest had a DD2 about 3 days ago And have no issue with the quick release I’m using the recommended settings from fanalab at the moment I cannot seem to find anything else to set them up correctly would you mind helping me you sound like you know what your talking about
Just want to add something about the DD2 QR system... 90% of the people are using it wrong and thats where the most flex comes from and thats what they complain the most about, the "flex" in the QR. With the wheel off, you are supposed to tighten the gold lock nut until the gold slip ring on the QR is touching the rubber gasket (but not compressing it). Then you put the wheel on and tighten the lock ring the rest of the way. Yes, it is even in the quick start manual. So when people have the lock ring fully loosened and attach the wheel, it slides that rubber gasket back and when they tighten the lock ring after, the ring can not fully expand inside wheel side QR like its supposed to. With that being said, there is still some flex but not nearly as much as the when doing it the other way.
I owed the DD2 for almost 2 years. I’ve had the SC2 Pro for almost two months. I’ll take the SC2 Pro over the DD2 any day. From the performance, the mature look, freedom to choose my QR system and lack of gimmicks like an OLED screen. The SC2 is a by far a superior product in my experience. Bless Fanatec for evolving the hardware side of sim racing though. If it wasn’t for the V2 version of the CSW I don’t think the TM T500 would have been enough to really pull me into the hobby. The downside is they aren’t focusing on their high end product line enough. They need real Podium class wheels. Something that competes with the likes of Cube Controls and SRB. Looks, materials and price point. They also should have changed that QR system the moment flex gate started.
Exactly, until today there is no proper GT3 wheel for the DD2. The formula rims are too small in diameter, the McLaren is Plastik and BMW..... Soon but branded. I own a DD2 because I had two wheels, I wouldn't buy it again because of the lack on their portfolio, lots of old rims
Objective non sponsored reviews are the best reviews. Cant wait to see your review on the Mige powered VRS. In industrial Chineese conveyor belt servo motors we trust.
Nice Review Dan... i own a DD2 and i am not a fanboy... but let may say some points from my experience: 1. the play in the wheel depent on the wheel you use. The Formular V3 has Zero play! The Mc Laren with the release adapter has a little play, but not in the Quick release and the BMW Gt2 Wheel has a higher play. 2. most wheels have a vibration motor - this is a nice feature and it plays nice together with the FFB 3. everything is plug & play ;-) 4. Fanatec offers 5 years warrenty - that was the reason why i buy the wheel.
Great review! I especially liked the little spoiler at the end, as I've been saying the VRS is the best deal in 20+Nm Direct Drive motors when you factor power, performance and cost. Most say it feels better than the DD2 and very close to the SC2 Pro, but costs at least $400 less. Unless you have a serious aversion to wired wheels, it's an amazing product!
awesome video, looking forward to the VRS and Simucube ones! A suggestion for the upcoming videos would be timestamps, gives a little bit more structure in my opinion :)
I always put the yellow nut against the rubber before I put the wheel on, after I can rotate max 90° to tighten the rubber. I saw some review of the correct way to mount fanatec QR a few years ago when they just came out. Anyway, I switch my wheels alot and never had troubles or wobbles doing it this way. I could just have alot of luck with all my QR's but guess it won't hurt trying it this way.
Some comments pointed out that I should disable LIN and run FOR on 100. Did that and it definitely gives a little stronger FFB (still not on the level the VRS or SC gives me, but closer) - but I get crazy oscillations on the wheel if I don't hold it unless I turn up the damping a lot :-/
Hmh, quick release "not that great". Let's be honest - it is garbage. I had pretty much everything from Fanatec over the years, CSL Elite, CSW 2/2.5, DD2 and tons of wheels. The QR is not only far too flexible it is also extremely annoying for switching the rims. I probably would have stayed using Fanatec gear, but not with that QR (and not with that shaky software/firmware).
This flex is weird. Got a DD1 myself and yes, if i want to, i get some flex, but not like this. My question is, where the flex happens? Seems to me, like it is at the point, where your steering wheel is connected to the podium adapter and not at the point where the podium adapter fits to the base/shaft. And i also never recognized the "steps" in steering as you mentioned. But i tried it and yes, if turned off, it feels like steps. if i am steering while driving, and i tried to drive slow and tried to feel any steps in steering, i can't feel anything like this.
Very honest and down to earth review. Looking forward to the next 3 videos. On the play issues even if you can't feel it ( yea right how couldn't you) why spend that much money on something so poorly designed when there are other comparable choices for close to the same money.
Driving at speed it's only noticeable if you are specifically trying to notice it. If you're focused on racing, you don't really notice it. At less than 4 Nm of torque, the difference in smoothness is huge, even the CSW is smoother at low torque. But at higher torque it's more like a 5% different. Still there but not as huge. And what makes it poorly designed? Smoothness isn't the only reason to buy a DD wheel.
@@BottomSplitPodium All manufacturers make a component that excepts tolerances some less than others. The tighter that tolerances the higher qulitiy the product is. This makes it more costly.It's obvious that the DD1 lacks this qulitiy either due to poor design or qulitiy control or both. It's a top end base it's not there CSW V2.5 that I owned that has much less play. I as a consumer make the choice when purchasing if that's acceptable or not. For me it's not with that much play. It will never be less and has the potential to only be worse.This is why people like Dan review items so based on what they show people can make there choice on what they prefer. Dan not sponsored by them makes it less biased. If I didn't know that before I bought it I might live with it but, knowing it I wouldn't buy it. If your happy with it I'm happy for you.
I've seen quite a few reviews of these drives and this is the first time I've heard about them getting hot. I wasn't aware of this and I'm glad you pointed it out. I don't like these little surprises when I'm shelling out big bucks. Thank you.
I have the VRS and live in the tropics with no A/C...it doesn't really get hot but I only run mine at 50%...which, for that wheelbase, I find makes it the most responsive (acceleration-wise) without going overboard with power. 100% motor strength for these wheels is just unnecessary and borderline dangerous IMO.
I'm actually glad Fanatec DD wheels are hit or miss quality. If it weren't for the fact that my GT DD Pro stopped working on the first day I had it, I would never have returned it and ended up with my beloved Simucube 2 Pro. I owe Fanatec a debt of gratitude for their design flaws!
I put a Sparco 383r on my endurance module and really like it. I have not too much issue with the play of the quick release it seems, but I do not have a Simi cube or other to compare. You can mount any type of wheel as long as the hole pattern matches. I found I really needed the emergency button when I switched wheel bases and my car was not set up properly, the wheel was going NUTs! I just needed to configure my car settings to the proper ffb.
Honest review also fanatec has really poor warranty support in countries that don’t have a repair Center like Canada. You have to pay any duties and insurance for shipping they only cover the cheapest ground shipping no insurance. . Poor really for such a big company.
The Fanatec support is full of detrust to the customer! Got a new DD2 and it was instant broken after the first FW Update. It is a battle with the support and honestly, i wouldnt buy fanatec again! I ordered it a week ago and i know that the replacemant didnt arrive this week cause of UPS... Dont missunderstand me! The Fanatec products are very cool (except the QR) but as a customer you feel like a enemy for Fanatec...
You can use other QRs for connecting 3rd party wheels. My favourites are those from SRM (There is also code online that when combined with a teensy board, can emulate the software). Also, that EMI will be a whole lot worse once you have the SFX running!
Thanks for a very interesting review. I like your approach which is less geek and more real life use related. I already have a DD1 but always keen to learn what experts think about a decision I already made. I’m really happy with my DD1 because I’m in the Fanatec ecosystem.
To be fair my DD1 and Formula V2 have almost no play in the QR even when not totally hard nutted Great review neither bashing nor praising. Well done mein Kerl!
Just wanted to note (maybe it has been said already in other comments) but the wheel base feels a little weaker because you had Liniar Mode "ON" this mode lowers the top end power of the base to try to normalize it. Its function is to basically eliminates the 3 second power step-down built into the Fanatic bases so the DD2 with linear mode on is actually running most of the time at 18Nm Max Power) . Personally I find that the wheel feels much better without it on. With it on it feels more like a DD1 without it on (which makes sense given the 20Nm top capability of the DD1)
@@HDRGamingHub The comment above was for linear mode within the Fanatec DD1/2. Outside of a wheelbase in most games you want to use NON-Linear mode to maximize what you feel from a Weaker wheelbase.
Linearity mode lowers the max torque of the DD2 to 20Nm, which is the holding torque. Without linearity mode, the DD2 can reach it's peak torque of 25Nm, which is equal to the holding torque of the Simucube 2 Pro.
@@PedroHenrique-bs8hj Maybe a "spoiler". But the DD2 will indeed be the worst in this review aswell. Dan already openly talked about what he thinks of the 3 DDs. When you get better DDs for less money its kinda sad.
Some things I've noticed with my DD1 (PS4 compatible for context). (also mentioned by jinx20001 in a comment thread) With LINear mode turned on, FFB is definitely weaker than it is with LIN off. Based on your clips you had Linear mode enabled for the entire review, which may have something to do with it feeling weaker than the SC2 and VRS bases (though I haven't used either of these so I can't comment myself). In regards to the QR play, the podium formula v2 rim that came with my ps4 dd1 has none of the play that your QR does. It's rock solid in both axis. I don't know why it doesn't have any flex/play compared to your QR, but that is the case. The notchiness is defnitely there for me when standing still, but once actually racing I don't really notice it like you said. You can feel the notchiness with the motor turned off, so I think it has something to do with the outrunner motor they use, and its coil and magnet configuration.
Great Video as always. It's really strange, I have 0 play in my Fanatec DD2 base and connection but I know that many people do, so it seems to be a lucky dip. Hopefully the new QR will fix that for everyone.
@@DanSuzuki your settings for the base are all wrong mate... the QR issues are indeed a problem but the setting on the wheel base are all very strange, you were saying the power of the base is weaker but you have linearity switched on... this needs to be off because it reduces the peak power of the wheelbase, switching it off will make the wheelbase come alive properly and you wont be using 100 percent on the base and in game anymore i can guarantee it. 100 percent in ACC settings is also a recipe for clipping as can be seen in the bottom right corner, reduce the GAIN in game down to 60 and some settings on the base need adjustment too. the interpolation setting should be at around 2-3 in ACC, it is a smoothing filter designed to smooth the effects of lower resolution FFB like what you get in iracing so interpolation at 5-6 works really nice in iracing but ACC FFB is much higher resolution so lowering the interpolation increases detail. your damping settings are a bit strange aswell. im happy to share my settings with you if you wish to give it another go and see if your opinion changes on the base but they are pretty subjective so if you like the way yours is set then thats up to you.... that linearity needs switching off though if you feel the base could be stronger that is why.
@@jinx20001 Sure! Always open to test different settings :-) I like how the FFB feels with the settings I'm using - with LIN off and FOR on 100 I really get bad oscillations though - but if you have some nice settings for ACC - feel free to post them :-)
@@DanSuzuki yeh ill share my settings, i am however using a DD1 so you will just adjust the overall power to your liking: FFB strength: 63 linearity: off natural damper: 16 friction: 0 inertia: 0 interpolation: 1 for ACC (iracing would be 6) Force effect int: 80 game force effect: 100 spring: 100 game damper effect: 80 give them a go mate, that is with ACC in game settings 60 gain and everything else stock. you may need to reduce FFB strength to totally eliminate oscillations but if you like it strong then what else can you do mate, its kind of part of the territory right :) hope that helps. my experience in the game is about 800 hours or so pc and 300 or so on console. steam user jinx20001. again no offence of any kind was meant and appreciate the review.
I know it's a bit late, but you used the linear mode of the DD2, which limits the base to 20Nm and significantly smoothes out heavy signal peaks, making the device feel much weaker. Only in Peak mode do you achieve full power and this is very noticeable, Peak mode is also much livelier in terms of the overall dynamics
Hey @Dan Suzuki to get rid off the wobble on the Fanatec gear try tightening the small Allen bolts inside the QR on the wheel and the base side as well.. Even if they feel tight try tensioning them some more, hope this helps
The Fanatec QR really isnt perfect but it seems the QR2 will take care of everything.. It can be seen that it is mounted as all other QRs from the outside and the shape of the male and female parts and the fact it will be used on the BMW M4 GT3 should offer zero-play experience... curious!!
Regarding the cooling. This is definitely a big pro. I am comparing it to PC Power Units and from my experience it is generally better to have a PU that cools constantly and just on lower RPM rather than going off and on. Low RPM is pretty much unhearable anyway. As decent fans aren't exactly expensive I don't see any reason not to have active cooling in a Wheelbase that can become hot to be honest.
It has to be something with the build tolerances of their quick release. Accuforce uses a ball style quick release and there is zero play in it. It goes on nice and easy with no play and basically pops right off when removing without having to pull on the wheel.
Great review, in depth, but not 1hr long :) I thought, i would not need the forces a dd can provide until i got myself an accuforce v2 system. It's 13nm sustained 15,6nm peak and i run it at 90%, i would go even higher, but i don't want any clipping. I could make use of 20nm as well. It certainly helped my driving, because the ffb is way more consistent and transparent. The dynamic range really sets it apart from belt driven wheels. It was a larger benefit for me than load cell pedals, i have more fun than ever in sim racing. The fanatec "quick release" would really bother me, the accuforce one is way more sturdy and has almost zero play and is way cheaper. I would say that fanatec has a good out of the box experience, especially for a dd system, but simxperience comes close with their cloud setup feature in their simcommancer 4 software, it is also plug and play. The eco system can be an advantage, but as you said they also force you to stay in that eco system, i prefer a more open integraten. Btw: a accuforce v2 system is 1050$ including base, wheel and button box, lower torque but also more powerful than the simagic m10 system, so mayb be a good "mid level" dd recommendation. I have yet to try a high end dd wheel like a simucube.
"Brief review"... 24 minutes 🤣. Just kidding.... Amazing video! Just nice to see a non sponsored review from someone focussed on the driving! Looking forward to the other ones.
I have the DD2 (2 years) and about the "nodgy" feel that is even there when base is turned off. I think it has nothing to do with the FFB. It's either bearings or the motor design. It has never ever been a thing that I noticed untill people start talking about it . And again only when you are not driving :)
From Fanatec manual: "Position the locking ring until it touches the rubber gasket, but do not tighten. This keeps the rubber gasket in place during wheel rim attachment... Do not over-loosen the locking ring to the end of the steering axle before attaching a steering wheel! The rubber ring will not sit in position to hold the Steering Wheel properly."
Yeah I think I really just got a bad sample since other people don't seem to have this crazy play in the QR. Oh well - shit happens :-) Like I said in the review - with the screw in the "Slow Release" it's actually ok!
@@DanSuzuki I think you did get a bad sample. My QR on my DD1 is solid as a rock, literally no play or flex at all. You aren't the only one to get this "play" so either I have been lucky, or you unlucky.
FF it's all about preferences at the end, but imo Lin should be disable , friction an inercia also or very low values, Fei never over 70%. Since the latest driver updates the settings in the forum feel wrong. Also if you buy a KR1 or top QR's like the HRS how much do you spend? Also think it's wrong showing the McLaren wheel with that qr if you have the other, it's like putting a cheap ebay qr on a SC2 or the VRS with printed diy wheel. The McLaren it's a nice wheel, but it's principal problem to me it's the plastic squeaks, at least you should use a Formula wheel, it's more on par to a dd wheel. The wobble it's been in some wheels, i don't have that problem, also the extension on the GSI wheel will increment if you already have that problem. And for the end m8, modern racing cars have power steering, i understand that you want to workout ans instead of going to a Gym your doing at your home, but careful one day you could hurt your self. Don't get me wrong, but this my opinion from yours. ;)
Funnily enough, I have the same issue with FEI on my CSW 2.5. On all QRs, I get this really rattling feel / sound, therefore I lowered it. Not sure if this can be fixed, but it sure is weird. I have mounted it onto my GT1 with the provided plate. It feels like it just shakes the steering rack, instead of really passing the detail onto the wheel.
what i don t like about this review is that the most important part for dd wheel is the reaction time of the wheel. i have leo bodnar and tested fanatec and i could not catch one slide in iracing allways to late. With bodnar its ultra fast.
Stay away from Fanatec at all cost. I have had problems with everything I bought from them: DD2, Formula V2 wheel, Porsche 911 GT3 wheel and inverted V3 pedals. Their products are half-baked and their support is useless. I have since then converted to a Simucube + Ascher + Heusinkveld setup and it just works.
You should screw up the nut so there is no / gap in between the rubber and the ring, then put wheel on then tighten. Don't screw the nut right back so the ring is lose before putting the wheel on (like you did). Take way any slack first........ not that it makes too much difference.
Not sure if Dan handles the screw right when attaching the wheel. As described in Fanatec manuals you need to turn the screw right to the point when it starts squeezing the rubber -> then put on the wheel and tighten the screw. I never had that much flex with the CSW 2.5 and the DD2 (still a crappy QR sytem IMO :-) )
I got a DD2 at first, now a VRS PRO. The vrs is so much better and cheaper. I got issues with every fanatec product... Hardware for 2500€. Now i am very happy, fanatec are toys for me. In 1 1/2 years fanatec i send 50 emails to the support. Never again fanatec.
You didn't put the wheel correctly according to the manual that's why the flex is there. I have zero flex on my shaft. You need to turn counter clockwise the gold collar to touch the rubber but not squished, then you need to put the wheel strongly to the end through the rubber, and then squish the gold collar again counter clockwise. Then you would get zero flex. In the video, you didn't made gold collar to touch the rubber, that's why the flex is there because rubber is didn't attach properly to the quick release and it makes the flex.
5:34 looks not correct. I need two hands to pull back the black ring on the wheelside QR. If it is not pulled back complete the springs and ball get damaged and you get a lot of play. The amount of play you have is definetly not normal
"Position the locking ring until it touches the rubber gasket, but do not tighten. This keeps the rubber gasket in place during wheel rim attachment" yours maybe was to loose
ya common mistake he and many make. you must snug it before putting the wheel on. BUT there is still play no matter what and it does make for some unsmooth driving and noises at high tq
Ich würde eher das DD1 nehmen wenn es Fanatec sein soll, der Unterschied ist klein. Unabhängig davon ist das VRS DD günstiger und besser meiner Meinung nach!
i see a lot of issues with this video. im going to sound like a fanboy but these things need pointing out. the first glaring issue when talking about the power being weaker... you have linearity on... turn it off, it reduces the power of the base. the QR is indeed bollocks, i use a DD1 and the quick release is the worst thing about it, they know its bad because a new one is coming as we all know. i did get rid of the play in it and how was really quite simple. i tightened the gold locking ring extremely tight by hand, when you think its tight it can probably go more, and then more again, to the point it cant be moved, this compresses the rubber enough it closes that tolerance gap and makes it super tight, then add the securing bolt and all will be perfect... this is a shit solution to a shit problem but works. you seemed to do all of that as expected however... your demonstration of how to tighten the QR according to fanatec is wrong and not as described by fanatec in the manual, you are suppose to nip the ring up so it touches the rubber and has a little tension on it before putting the wheel on and then when the wheel is on you tighten it further to ensure its on properly, it may not sound like it should make a difference but it actually does and fanatec state in the manual putting the wheel on with the gold ring loose will be incorrect. i have absolutely no idea why you are using 100 percent gain in ACC... anything over 60 causes clipping which can be seen in the bottom right corner where your head is, clipping we all know is bad and the clipping comes firstly from the source which is the game, you can run the base at 100 percent without any clipping as long as in game its 60 or below. then there is your settings for the base, settings are always subjective and you usually use what feels best but there are some very obvious and clear settings that are going to hamper your experience with the base, for instance using interpolation filter at 5 is just going to kill all the detail in ACC... detail is much better set to 2-3, your FEI setting is correct and fine, your damping settings are all over the place, you have linearity on which kills peak power so its no wonder you are running the base at 100 percent and game aswell... it just does not make any sense to me the settings being used. maybe you just like it this way and if that is the case then awesome but its very strange, it certainly comes across as not your main base which is cool. you are absolutely right about the QR though, when you know it has issues it plays on your mind forever even if you manage to remove the issue.
Check the pinned comment :-) I tried it again with Linear Mode off and FOR on 100 ... while the base is stronger it's still not close to the VRS/SC2 ... but again - this is probably not an issue for 99% of the users. To be honest, I don't understand why they call that Filter "linear mode". I mean if anything - you want a Direct Drive to have a linear FFB output - so IMO if it's just a "strength" filter for the peaks it is a very misleading name.
@@DanSuzuki thanks for the reply i appreciate it and its good to see you are reading the comments and listening to feedback. the linear mode is designed to just reduce the peaks of the power output, i guess some people just prefer to have the wheelbase go crazy when they hit a bump and really feel it kick, linear mode is designed to reduce those impacts so the feedback does not spike suddenly. i think ite better to have that option rather than have no option at all right? i have not driven the SC2 so i cant compare them like you can but it sounds like the SC2 gives a much more raw feedback, it probably feels more active in the hands and it probably comes down to what settings you use on that device for example did you know the simucube ''force reconstruction filter'' in the settings does to same job as the fanatec ''interpolation filter''. something like this setting being very different on both bases can drastically effect how they feel different. anyway... appreciate the reply, as fanatec owners ofcourse we just want to help you feel what we feel so you dont have a bad impression that we dont see, hope that makes sense.
@@jinx20001 Thanks for the explanation! I definitely appreciate all the feedback :) I will try everything again with your settings and take that into account in Part 4 of the series. The FFB itself on the Fanatec and Simucube 2 is not really that different to be honest. I find the SC2 less prone to oscillations but that's about the biggest difference. The VRS is the one that is the "odd one out" - the FFB is much "rawer" than SC2 and DD2 - but that's probably because you basically have no filters there at all at the moment 😅 It's not a bad thing - it's just very different, some will like it, some won't. Again, I hope this review doesn't feel like "yo, this base is shit" - I really liked the FFB it gives me, and now I also know there is some headroom in FFB strength!
@@DanSuzuki thankyou mate, ill be watching. just one last tip... if you reduce the interpolation filter to 0 on fanatec that is suppose to give you the ''raw'' feedback from the game, it can be pretty noisy and grainy feeling because it is ofcourse raw feedback but maybe you can compare that to the VRS and see if that is what you are feeling with that base. happy racing buddy.
@@jinx20001 Linear mode kills the force feedback due to g force loading while cornering. It is not because some want an active wheel, but your wheel should become harder to hold with increasing cornering forces. Don't speak as of all Podium users agree that everything is ok, but only the QR is terrible.
You're quick release has more play then most mine almost has none keep in mind there are variances you should order another one and check because you may get one without as much movement lol seems like you didn't even turn on torque mode lol you need to flip the switch lol doesn't seem as violent as I'm used to with the dd1 and dd2 I'm not joking your dd2 should be putting out way more power then what it is lol my dd2 goes more crazy then your dd2 talk to fanstex tell them because you have a very weak looking dd2 me my dd1 at 100 percent is so jerky and just tons of detail you should really check with fanatec as one thing when comapring to the sport the fanatec felt just about as strong as that one so yeah and the dd2 is very strong people compare these all of the time and yeah the dd2 should be kerning you around a bit more what you were feeling or what it looked like was like my dd1 at 10nm nit 20 nm dd2 I saw 1 other youtubrr have a power issue he knew it should of been stronger so he contacted fanstec they sent him a new one and rven serviced his old one and he said the one they sent is way better much stronger as it should be but for real brotha when something doesn't add up or doesn't feel right that's when you reach out and ask them about it lol 20nm is 20nm it should feel like 20nm regardless and if it doesn't then there is an issue and illl tell you right now the max you were getting was like 10nm I'm wondering if you even flipped it into torque mode or not but if you did then def contact them and get a new base sent out to you man you will be very surprised
I had dd1 and sc2 pro. And I had the impression that it was dd1 that felt stronger (20 vs 25 nm). DD1 is much faster when it comes to acceleration it is on the sc2 ultimate level
Can you hang off with the next review till I have saved for the vrs dd. Dont want to have cash but the vrs has sold out. Only mention this cause of the spoiler dropped at the end of this vid. Just give me 5 months. 🤑
100% FFB feels weaker than the other comparable bases is because you enabled Linear Mode which Cuts the Peak Output of the Motor to it's Holding Force, which is 20Nm for the DD2. So you lose 5Nm when you enable that setting and therefore it feels weaker. Also with LIN OFF imo it feels way better...
@@HordyH Yeah that's another reason why it feels weaker, FOR has to be 100 ALWAYS! FEI at 80 is fine, that Filter does not reduce FFB strength but only softens the Signals (same for INT btw)
@@DanSuzuki I am not sure to what the DD2 or DD1 are limited to, but my DD1 when lineair mode is on, basically has zero forces during corners. In my opinion it is ridiculous that the default setting is on, they only did that because the base oscillates like crazy if you don't hold the wheel firmly. Fanatec never actually adressed the issue, just put a bandaid over it.
100% in driver and Game??? No way... Going corner with one hand... i tested ist with the DD 1 Do you have the torque key in? And with 100% ffb ingame u have clipping EDIT: deaktivate LIN Mode it cuts the FFB and then you dont have the forcefeedback Strength (FOR) and the FFb intensity (FEI) at 100!!!! turn this parameters and u wont drive that easy!
Of course :) yeah it’s not ideal because of the clipping - but it’s a good workout 😅 Keep in mind the wheel I use is very big (310mm diameter) - with a small rim like the Fanatec formula rim it would definitely much tougher. Been driving 100% for a few weeks now so I got used to it quite a bit :)
@@HordyH Interesting, with LIN off the base didnt really feel good to me and with FEI on 100 that thing is close to unusable because of the oscillations/noise (see the twitch clip close to the end). But that's jusut my opinion, only because I don't like it that much doesnt mean that you can't like your DD1 :-)
@@DanSuzuki ich will nicht Fanatec verteidigen oder so, mir geht es darum das es nunmal keine 100% ffb sind. Also sollte man das nicht behaupten. Außerdem bekommt man das oszillieren mit der Dämpfung weg. Also wenn du sagst das du 100% eingestellt hast solltest du das auch machen. Probiere es mal und du wirst nicht mehr so locker fahren. WIE GESAGT ICH WILL NICHT HATEN
Tight first (a bit) the gold nut - insert the wheel all the way in tight the rest of the way the gold nut = 0 flex or 0.5 if you want to flex your muscle:) c'mon is 2021 that flex problem was so sept 2019
You can not really avoid flex when you compress a rubber to tighten something. Rubber remains rubber - let's just face it, that Quick Release is garbage, then don't work on a new one because the current one is so great ;-)
@@DanSuzuki I got 3 wheels and none flex like yours in the vid and i'm sure i grip it with more force then you. Event if i put my mind to do it and really want to make it flex is like 10% of your flex. Try mount it like i say it in the comment. Or better just look at this guy ruclips.net/video/u2slxjJBcZA/видео.html
Like I said in the video - I tried the Z-Ring without big success. It's just bad compared to a proper QR like the SC one or the Xero Play. It's interesting that you know how hard I grip my wheels :)
honestly i feel like you're one of very few reviewers who aren't reluctant to criticise fanatec when it's warranted (edit: aren't!)
They are not sponsoring him, so he has no fear of repercussions.
he was right to criticize them on the QR but there were many little issues with the review in general, some of it is kind of mis-information... for example he pointed out that the DD2 seems to be weaker than the competition but he clearly had linearity switched on in the settings... this shows he is using settings on the base without really understanding what they do. linearity reduces power and the peak forces. he also didn't use the quick release correctly, the manual specifically states you must tighten the gold locking ring up enough to nip the rubber before putting on the wheel, putting the wheel on while the gold ring is loose is incorrect.
also even though he was happy with the settings and how they felt to drive its pretty clear he does not use the base as a main base and some settings did not make sense for ACC, the interpolation filter for example smoothes the FFB curve to help with games using lower resolution FFB such as iracing, so having interpolation set to 5 works great in iracing but it dampens the detail in a game like ACC which has higher res feedback, setting it to 2-3 would result in far more detail coming through the base.
he is also using 100 percent gain in ACC... this introduces clipping to the signal which can be seen in the bottom right (covered by his head), the reason he is using 100 percent gain is because he likes it strong and its not coming through strong because he has the linearity switched on. the detail and power will be far better if he lowers the interpolation and he turns linearity off, he will also eliminate all clipping if he reduces in game gain down to 60 percent and then adjusts the power on his base to his liking... which almost certainly wont be 100 percent anymore lol
its a review of a wheelbase by somebody who clearly does not use it as his main base and it shows, settings are subjective ofcourse and if he likes it set up that way then that is absolutely fine however its wrong to suggest the base has less power when he is using settings designed to reduce the power and he does not even know it.
the notchiness when turning the wheel is absolutely correct... the poor quick release is absolutely correct. the rest of the review was a little poor and does not represent the wheelbase correctly.
i dont say all this as a fanboy or to discredit the guy... i own a DD1 and its my main base, i have a thousand hours or so in ACC and im good enough (i can do a 1.47.7 on monza for example in a honda). im just pointing out where the review stumbles for me, it was a positive review in general but much of it was puzzling.
@@jinx20001 lol, fanatec shareholder?
@@TheMatziking not at all mate, the only reason i have not sold my fanatec stuff is because they have a new QR on the way and im also interested in the upcoming bmw GT4 wheel.
i take a lot of issue with my fanatec stuff, i hate the quick release even though its working fine for me now and they have software issues that have been around for over a year like fanatec recommends NOT using the ITM display on the wheelbase because it causes random jolts in the feedback... that has been an issue for over a year and they know about it. so not a fanboy, not a shareholder... nothing of the kind but i feel something has to be said when a review points out issues that are not quite correct.
@@jinx20001 i have jest had a DD2 about 3 days ago And have no issue with the quick release I’m using the recommended settings from fanalab at the moment I cannot seem to find anything else to set them up correctly would you mind helping me you sound like you know what your talking about
Just want to add something about the DD2 QR system... 90% of the people are using it wrong and thats where the most flex comes from and thats what they complain the most about, the "flex" in the QR. With the wheel off, you are supposed to tighten the gold lock nut until the gold slip ring on the QR is touching the rubber gasket (but not compressing it). Then you put the wheel on and tighten the lock ring the rest of the way. Yes, it is even in the quick start manual. So when people have the lock ring fully loosened and attach the wheel, it slides that rubber gasket back and when they tighten the lock ring after, the ring can not fully expand inside wheel side QR like its supposed to. With that being said, there is still some flex but not nearly as much as the when doing it the other way.
Is a shit qr dont look for manuals
Nice shirt Dan! ;) Good and fair review. I'm looking forward to the QR 2.0. Cheers
I owed the DD2 for almost 2 years. I’ve had the SC2 Pro for almost two months. I’ll take the SC2 Pro over the DD2 any day.
From the performance, the mature look, freedom to choose my QR system and lack of gimmicks like an OLED screen. The SC2 is a by far a superior product in my experience.
Bless Fanatec for evolving the hardware side of sim racing though. If it wasn’t for the V2 version of the CSW I don’t think the TM T500 would have been enough to really pull me into the hobby.
The downside is they aren’t focusing on their high end product line enough. They need real Podium class wheels. Something that competes with the likes of Cube Controls and SRB. Looks, materials and price point.
They also should have changed that QR system the moment flex gate started.
Exactly, until today there is no proper GT3 wheel for the DD2. The formula rims are too small in diameter, the McLaren is Plastik and BMW..... Soon but branded. I own a DD2 because I had two wheels, I wouldn't buy it again because of the lack on their portfolio, lots of old rims
Objective non sponsored reviews are the best reviews. Cant wait to see your review on the Mige powered VRS. In industrial Chineese conveyor belt servo motors we trust.
Nice Review Dan... i own a DD2 and i am not a fanboy... but let may say some points from my experience:
1. the play in the wheel depent on the wheel you use. The Formular V3 has Zero play! The Mc Laren with the release adapter has a little play, but not in the Quick release and the BMW Gt2 Wheel has a higher play.
2. most wheels have a vibration motor - this is a nice feature and it plays nice together with the FFB
3. everything is plug & play ;-)
4. Fanatec offers 5 years warrenty - that was the reason why i buy the wheel.
Can't wait to see the reviews of the CSL DD.
Great review! I especially liked the little spoiler at the end, as I've been saying the VRS is the best deal in 20+Nm Direct Drive motors when you factor power, performance and cost. Most say it feels better than the DD2 and very close to the SC2 Pro, but costs at least $400 less. Unless you have a serious aversion to wired wheels, it's an amazing product!
awesome video, looking forward to the VRS and Simucube ones! A suggestion for the upcoming videos would be timestamps, gives a little bit more structure in my opinion :)
Ok Star-RUclipsr Kappa
I always put the yellow nut against the rubber before I put the wheel on, after I can rotate max 90° to tighten the rubber. I saw some review of the correct way to mount fanatec QR a few years ago when they just came out. Anyway, I switch my wheels alot and never had troubles or wobbles doing it this way. I could just have alot of luck with all my QR's but guess it won't hurt trying it this way.
Some comments pointed out that I should disable LIN and run FOR on 100. Did that and it definitely gives a little stronger FFB (still not on the level the VRS or SC gives me, but closer) - but I get crazy oscillations on the wheel if I don't hold it unless I turn up the damping a lot :-/
Hhmm ok but now you Must reduce FFB ingame
this genuinely makes me wonder if there isn't something wrong with your base.
@@gulfcoaster210 with my base?
@@HordyH lol no, with dan’s
@@gulfcoaster210 lol ok
Nice video Dan. The DD2 looks so familiar.
Hmh, quick release "not that great". Let's be honest - it is garbage. I had pretty much everything from Fanatec over the years, CSL Elite, CSW 2/2.5, DD2 and tons of wheels. The QR is not only far too flexible it is also extremely annoying for switching the rims. I probably would have stayed using Fanatec gear, but not with that QR (and not with that shaky software/firmware).
Liked because I generally like the way you all support each other so much within the sim racing/content creation community.
Thx Dan for the honest review. Very informative and nice to watch, like all of your content.
The most funny thing in the vid is your DC Shirt 🤣🤣
This flex is weird. Got a DD1 myself and yes, if i want to, i get some flex, but not like this. My question is, where the flex happens? Seems to me, like it is at the point, where your steering wheel is connected to the podium adapter and not at the point where the podium adapter fits to the base/shaft. And i also never recognized the "steps" in steering as you mentioned. But i tried it and yes, if turned off, it feels like steps. if i am steering while driving, and i tried to drive slow and tried to feel any steps in steering, i can't feel anything like this.
Very honest and down to earth review. Looking forward to the next 3 videos. On the play issues even if you can't feel it ( yea right how couldn't you) why spend that much money on something so poorly designed when there are other comparable choices for close to the same money.
Driving at speed it's only noticeable if you are specifically trying to notice it. If you're focused on racing, you don't really notice it. At less than 4 Nm of torque, the difference in smoothness is huge, even the CSW is smoother at low torque. But at higher torque it's more like a 5% different. Still there but not as huge. And what makes it poorly designed? Smoothness isn't the only reason to buy a DD wheel.
@@BottomSplitPodium All manufacturers make a component that excepts tolerances some less than others. The tighter that tolerances the higher qulitiy the product is. This makes it more costly.It's obvious that the DD1 lacks this qulitiy either due to poor design or qulitiy control or both. It's a top end base it's not there CSW V2.5 that I owned that has much less play. I as a consumer make the choice when purchasing if that's acceptable or not. For me it's not with that much play. It will never be less and has the potential to only be worse.This is why people like Dan review items so based on what they show people can make there choice on what they prefer. Dan not sponsored by them makes it less biased. If I didn't know that before I bought it I might live with it but, knowing it I wouldn't buy it. If your happy with it I'm happy for you.
I've seen quite a few reviews of these drives and this is the first time I've heard about them getting hot. I wasn't aware of this and I'm glad you pointed it out. I don't like these little surprises when I'm shelling out big bucks. Thank you.
I have the VRS and live in the tropics with no A/C...it doesn't really get hot but I only run mine at 50%...which, for that wheelbase, I find makes it the most responsive (acceleration-wise) without going overboard with power. 100% motor strength for these wheels is just unnecessary and borderline dangerous IMO.
I'm actually glad Fanatec DD wheels are hit or miss quality. If it weren't for the fact that my GT DD Pro stopped working on the first day I had it, I would never have returned it and ended up with my beloved Simucube 2 Pro. I owe Fanatec a debt of gratitude for their design flaws!
I put a Sparco 383r on my endurance module and really like it. I have not too much issue with the play of the quick release it seems, but I do not have a Simi cube or other to compare. You can mount any type of wheel as long as the hole pattern matches. I found I really needed the emergency button when I switched wheel bases and my car was not set up properly, the wheel was going NUTs! I just needed to configure my car settings to the proper ffb.
Honest review also fanatec has really poor warranty support in countries that don’t have a repair Center like Canada. You have to pay any duties and insurance for shipping they only cover the cheapest ground shipping no insurance. . Poor really for such a big company.
The Fanatec support is full of detrust to the customer! Got a new DD2 and it was instant broken after the first FW Update. It is a battle with the support and honestly, i wouldnt buy fanatec again! I ordered it a week ago and i know that the replacemant didnt arrive this week cause of UPS... Dont missunderstand me! The Fanatec products are very cool (except the QR) but as a customer you feel like a enemy for Fanatec...
You can use other QRs for connecting 3rd party wheels. My favourites are those from SRM (There is also code online that when combined with a teensy board, can emulate the software).
Also, that EMI will be a whole lot worse once you have the SFX running!
Thanks for a very interesting review. I like your approach which is less geek and more real life use related. I already have a DD1 but always keen to learn what experts think about a decision I already made. I’m really happy with my DD1 because I’m in the Fanatec ecosystem.
The Z-Ring works great for me on my DD1. But, yeah, the QR needs a lot of improvement.
To be fair my DD1 and Formula V2 have almost no play in the QR even when not totally hard nutted
Great review neither bashing nor praising. Well done mein Kerl!
Hi Dan, Great video. You mentioned you had to ground your rig? Could you perhaps show how you did that? Thanks!
Just wanted to note (maybe it has been said already in other comments) but the wheel base feels a little weaker because you had Liniar Mode "ON" this mode lowers the top end power of the base to try to normalize it. Its function is to basically eliminates the 3 second power step-down built into the Fanatic bases so the DD2 with linear mode on is actually running most of the time at 18Nm Max Power) . Personally I find that the wheel feels much better without it on. With it on it feels more like a DD1 without it on (which makes sense given the 20Nm top capability of the DD1)
@@HDRGamingHub The comment above was for linear mode within the Fanatec DD1/2. Outside of a wheelbase in most games you want to use NON-Linear mode to maximize what you feel from a Weaker wheelbase.
Linearity mode lowers the max torque of the DD2 to 20Nm, which is the holding torque. Without linearity mode, the DD2 can reach it's peak torque of 25Nm, which is equal to the holding torque of the Simucube 2 Pro.
Cant wait for the fanatec DD!!!
Axly If u could in my opnion is better take another one...to me this is the worse of the 3 DDs;
@@PedroHenrique-bs8hj Maybe a "spoiler". But the DD2 will indeed be the worst in this review aswell. Dan already openly talked about what he thinks of the 3 DDs. When you get better DDs for less money its kinda sad.
Great job Dan, Appreciate the unbiased review. I expect the Fanatec Fanboys will be out in full force
Comments like this say to me.... "I am only hear to start drama and arguments".
Some things I've noticed with my DD1 (PS4 compatible for context). (also mentioned by jinx20001 in a comment thread) With LINear mode turned on, FFB is definitely weaker than it is with LIN off. Based on your clips you had Linear mode enabled for the entire review, which may have something to do with it feeling weaker than the SC2 and VRS bases (though I haven't used either of these so I can't comment myself).
In regards to the QR play, the podium formula v2 rim that came with my ps4 dd1 has none of the play that your QR does. It's rock solid in both axis. I don't know why it doesn't have any flex/play compared to your QR, but that is the case.
The notchiness is defnitely there for me when standing still, but once actually racing I don't really notice it like you said. You can feel the notchiness with the motor turned off, so I think it has something to do with the outrunner motor they use, and its coil and magnet configuration.
Great Video as always. It's really strange, I have 0 play in my Fanatec DD2 base and connection but I know that many people do, so it seems to be a lucky dip. Hopefully the new QR will fix that for everyone.
Yeah, I can't wait to try it out :-)
@@DanSuzuki your settings for the base are all wrong mate... the QR issues are indeed a problem but the setting on the wheel base are all very strange, you were saying the power of the base is weaker but you have linearity switched on... this needs to be off because it reduces the peak power of the wheelbase, switching it off will make the wheelbase come alive properly and you wont be using 100 percent on the base and in game anymore i can guarantee it. 100 percent in ACC settings is also a recipe for clipping as can be seen in the bottom right corner, reduce the GAIN in game down to 60 and some settings on the base need adjustment too. the interpolation setting should be at around 2-3 in ACC, it is a smoothing filter designed to smooth the effects of lower resolution FFB like what you get in iracing so interpolation at 5-6 works really nice in iracing but ACC FFB is much higher resolution so lowering the interpolation increases detail.
your damping settings are a bit strange aswell. im happy to share my settings with you if you wish to give it another go and see if your opinion changes on the base but they are pretty subjective so if you like the way yours is set then thats up to you.... that linearity needs switching off though if you feel the base could be stronger that is why.
@@jinx20001 Sure! Always open to test different settings :-) I like how the FFB feels with the settings I'm using - with LIN off and FOR on 100 I really get bad oscillations though - but if you have some nice settings for ACC - feel free to post them :-)
@@DanSuzuki yeh ill share my settings, i am however using a DD1 so you will just adjust the overall power to your liking:
FFB strength: 63
linearity: off
natural damper: 16
friction: 0
inertia: 0
interpolation: 1 for ACC (iracing would be 6)
Force effect int: 80
game force effect: 100
spring: 100
game damper effect: 80
give them a go mate, that is with ACC in game settings 60 gain and everything else stock. you may need to reduce FFB strength to totally eliminate oscillations but if you like it strong then what else can you do mate, its kind of part of the territory right :) hope that helps. my experience in the game is about 800 hours or so pc and 300 or so on console. steam user jinx20001.
again no offence of any kind was meant and appreciate the review.
@@jinx20001 thank you very much, I’ll give them a try :)
What’s the screw your using at 6:23 ??? As In what’s the length and width and can it also be used for DD1?
I know it's a bit late, but you used the linear mode of the DD2, which limits the base to 20Nm and significantly smoothes out heavy signal peaks, making the device feel much weaker. Only in Peak mode do you achieve full power and this is very noticeable, Peak mode is also much livelier in terms of the overall dynamics
Hey @Dan Suzuki to get rid off the wobble on the Fanatec gear try tightening the small Allen bolts inside the QR on the wheel and the base side as well.. Even if they feel tight try tensioning them some more, hope this helps
Plenty of reviews showing it's inherent to the QR design and not fixable. Sounds like are working on a new one.
@@jonboy602 well I fixed mine 🤷🏼♂️
Try tightening the nut so that it just touches the rubber before putting the rim on. Then fully tighten and there should be less play
The Fanatec QR really isnt perfect but it seems the QR2 will take care of everything.. It can be seen that it is mounted as all other QRs from the outside and the shape of the male and female parts and the fact it will be used on the BMW M4 GT3 should offer zero-play experience... curious!!
Regarding the cooling. This is definitely a big pro. I am comparing it to PC Power Units and from my experience it is generally better to have a PU that cools constantly and just on lower RPM rather than going off and on. Low RPM is pretty much unhearable anyway. As decent fans aren't exactly expensive I don't see any reason not to have active cooling in a Wheelbase that can become hot to be honest.
Think F1 at Kayalami would be awesome. Track has lots of overtaking spots while also being fairly technical.
Nice video btw.
It has to be something with the build tolerances of their quick release. Accuforce uses a ball style quick release and there is zero play in it. It goes on nice and easy with no play and basically pops right off when removing without having to pull on the wheel.
Tks for the amanzing content as always Dan.
Great review, in depth, but not 1hr long :) I thought, i would not need the forces a dd can provide until i got myself an accuforce v2 system. It's 13nm sustained 15,6nm peak and i run it at 90%, i would go even higher, but i don't want any clipping. I could make use of 20nm as well. It certainly helped my driving, because the ffb is way more consistent and transparent. The dynamic range really sets it apart from belt driven wheels. It was a larger benefit for me than load cell pedals, i have more fun than ever in sim racing. The fanatec "quick release" would really bother me, the accuforce one is way more sturdy and has almost zero play and is way cheaper. I would say that fanatec has a good out of the box experience, especially for a dd system, but simxperience comes close with their cloud setup feature in their simcommancer 4 software, it is also plug and play. The eco system can be an advantage, but as you said they also force you to stay in that eco system, i prefer a more open integraten. Btw: a accuforce v2 system is 1050$ including base, wheel and button box, lower torque but also more powerful than the simagic m10 system, so mayb be a good "mid level" dd recommendation. I have yet to try a high end dd wheel like a simucube.
Wish I could even afford a basic wheel but can’t but I’ll get there one day
Great video Dan! Thanks for sharing. W
I have a csw 2.5 and its the same with the cogging when your sat there in the pits!
The SC2 is the one I want, but it's by far the most expensive.
Does switching to 222hz (in ACC) change the Fanatec DD feel at all?
Did you try resetting your modem before using fanatec base? Sometimes to get max ffb you need to do that.
Amazing Content as Always
Great video as always
"Brief review"... 24 minutes 🤣. Just kidding.... Amazing video! Just nice to see a non sponsored review from someone focussed on the driving! Looking forward to the other ones.
I have the DD2 (2 years) and about the "nodgy" feel that is even there when base is turned off. I think it has nothing to do with the FFB. It's either bearings or the motor design. It has never ever been a thing that I noticed untill people start talking about it . And again only when you are not driving :)
From Fanatec manual:
"Position the locking ring until it touches the rubber gasket, but do not tighten. This keeps the rubber gasket in place during wheel rim attachment... Do not over-loosen the locking ring to the end of the steering axle before attaching a steering wheel! The rubber ring will not sit in position to hold the Steering Wheel properly."
It doesn't make any difference. I tried it all. Even 3D printed the Z-Ring and a tool to tighter the nut. The QR is just shit 😅
@@DanSuzuki Damn! Oh well.
Yeah I think I really just got a bad sample since other people don't seem to have this crazy play in the QR. Oh well - shit happens :-) Like I said in the review - with the screw in the "Slow Release" it's actually ok!
@@DanSuzuki I think you did get a bad sample. My QR on my DD1 is solid as a rock, literally no play or flex at all. You aren't the only one to get this "play" so either I have been lucky, or you unlucky.
Or both :D
FF it's all about preferences at the end, but imo Lin should be disable , friction an inercia also or very low values, Fei never over 70%. Since the latest driver updates the settings in the forum feel wrong.
Also if you buy a KR1 or top QR's like the HRS how much do you spend?
Also think it's wrong showing the McLaren wheel with that qr if you have the other, it's like putting a cheap ebay qr on a SC2 or the VRS with printed diy wheel. The McLaren it's a nice wheel, but it's principal problem to me it's the plastic squeaks, at least you should use a Formula wheel, it's more on par to a dd wheel.
The wobble it's been in some wheels, i don't have that problem, also the extension on the GSI wheel will increment if you already have that problem.
And for the end m8, modern racing cars have power steering, i understand that you want to workout ans instead of going to a Gym your doing at your home, but careful one day you could hurt your self.
Don't get me wrong, but this my opinion from yours. ;)
Funnily enough, I have the same issue with FEI on my CSW 2.5. On all QRs, I get this really rattling feel / sound, therefore I lowered it. Not sure if this can be fixed, but it sure is weird. I have mounted it onto my GT1 with the provided plate. It feels like it just shakes the steering rack, instead of really passing the detail onto the wheel.
what i don t like about this review is that the most important part for dd wheel is the reaction time of the wheel. i have leo bodnar and tested fanatec and i could not catch one slide in iracing allways to late. With bodnar its ultra fast.
are you for real use it at 100% ff?? i can’t handle more than 25%
The DD2-base is a bit out of my price range, but if I save money for a while I might be able to afford the emergency button. Yeah!
I like the shirt!
nice Dave Cam tshirt :)
Stay away from Fanatec at all cost. I have had problems with everything I bought from them: DD2, Formula V2 wheel, Porsche 911 GT3 wheel and inverted V3 pedals. Their products are half-baked and their support is useless. I have since then converted to a Simucube + Ascher + Heusinkveld setup and it just works.
How do you get ACC to look so clean? Mine always looks hazy...
Following
Didn’t do anything fancy here to be honest - epic preset with shadows turned down and contact shadows enabled.
I honestly never have any play in any of my 6 wheels on my DD1
Love the shirt Dan...
Just ordered Podium dd1/pc/ps4 formula 1 bundle , I hope it was a good purchase
You should screw up the nut so there is no / gap in between the rubber and the ring, then put wheel on then tighten. Don't screw the nut right back so the ring is lose before putting the wheel on (like you did). Take way any slack first........ not that it makes too much difference.
holy crap your qr has waaaaayyyyyy more flex than my dd1. I can't believe how much variance there is from unit to unit.
Yeah I guess I really got a bad unit :( can’t wait for the QR2 - I think that helps the base unfold its potential much better
@@DanSuzuki I saw the same flex in numerous videos, so if people have less play, they probably just got lucky.
Not sure if Dan handles the screw right when attaching the wheel. As described in Fanatec manuals you need to turn the screw right to the point when it starts squeezing the rubber -> then put on the wheel and tighten the screw. I never had that much flex with the CSW 2.5 and the DD2 (still a crappy QR sytem IMO :-) )
I got a DD2 at first, now a VRS PRO.
The vrs is so much better and cheaper.
I got issues with every fanatec product... Hardware for 2500€.
Now i am very happy, fanatec are toys for me. In 1 1/2 years fanatec i send 50 emails to the support. Never again fanatec.
Dan is the best!
Nice shirt!
Fanalab looks like the original Assetto Corsa menus
thx dan , nice shirt lol
You didn't put the wheel correctly according to the manual that's why the flex is there. I have zero flex on my shaft. You need to turn counter clockwise the gold collar to touch the rubber but not squished, then you need to put the wheel strongly to the end through the rubber, and then squish the gold collar again counter clockwise. Then you would get zero flex. In the video, you didn't made gold collar to touch the rubber, that's why the flex is there because rubber is didn't attach properly to the quick release and it makes the flex.
5:34 looks not correct. I need two hands to pull back the black ring on the wheelside QR. If it is not pulled back complete the springs and ball get damaged and you get a lot of play. The amount of play you have is definetly not normal
fanatec=is regret.
"Position the locking ring until it touches the rubber gasket, but do not tighten. This keeps the rubber gasket in
place during wheel rim attachment" yours maybe was to loose
ya common mistake he and many make. you must snug it before putting the wheel on. BUT there is still play no matter what and it does make for some unsmooth driving and noises at high tq
Ich möchte auch auf dd gehen weiß aber nicht welche ob dd2 oder dd1 ist der unterschied sehr groß
Ich würde eher das DD1 nehmen wenn es Fanatec sein soll, der Unterschied ist klein. Unabhängig davon ist das VRS DD günstiger und besser meiner Meinung nach!
Great shirt Dan. Did you lose a bet? lol
No, but Dave uses this base so I thought it's appropriate :D
@@DanSuzuki there's you showing your class again. Nice.
Started your shorts channel yet lol
I have dd1 and on 100%ffb in iRacing I could not turn the wheel it was so strong. And I am a bodybuilder. I do not drive acc so can't compare it
Are all the wheels by fanatec that LOSE??????
i see a lot of issues with this video. im going to sound like a fanboy but these things need pointing out. the first glaring issue when talking about the power being weaker... you have linearity on... turn it off, it reduces the power of the base.
the QR is indeed bollocks, i use a DD1 and the quick release is the worst thing about it, they know its bad because a new one is coming as we all know. i did get rid of the play in it and how was really quite simple. i tightened the gold locking ring extremely tight by hand, when you think its tight it can probably go more, and then more again, to the point it cant be moved, this compresses the rubber enough it closes that tolerance gap and makes it super tight, then add the securing bolt and all will be perfect... this is a shit solution to a shit problem but works. you seemed to do all of that as expected however...
your demonstration of how to tighten the QR according to fanatec is wrong and not as described by fanatec in the manual, you are suppose to nip the ring up so it touches the rubber and has a little tension on it before putting the wheel on and then when the wheel is on you tighten it further to ensure its on properly, it may not sound like it should make a difference but it actually does and fanatec state in the manual putting the wheel on with the gold ring loose will be incorrect.
i have absolutely no idea why you are using 100 percent gain in ACC... anything over 60 causes clipping which can be seen in the bottom right corner where your head is, clipping we all know is bad and the clipping comes firstly from the source which is the game, you can run the base at 100 percent without any clipping as long as in game its 60 or below.
then there is your settings for the base, settings are always subjective and you usually use what feels best but there are some very obvious and clear settings that are going to hamper your experience with the base, for instance using interpolation filter at 5 is just going to kill all the detail in ACC... detail is much better set to 2-3, your FEI setting is correct and fine, your damping settings are all over the place, you have linearity on which kills peak power so its no wonder you are running the base at 100 percent and game aswell... it just does not make any sense to me the settings being used. maybe you just like it this way and if that is the case then awesome but its very strange, it certainly comes across as not your main base which is cool.
you are absolutely right about the QR though, when you know it has issues it plays on your mind forever even if you manage to remove the issue.
Check the pinned comment :-) I tried it again with Linear Mode off and FOR on 100 ... while the base is stronger it's still not close to the VRS/SC2 ... but again - this is probably not an issue for 99% of the users.
To be honest, I don't understand why they call that Filter "linear mode". I mean if anything - you want a Direct Drive to have a linear FFB output - so IMO if it's just a "strength" filter for the peaks it is a very misleading name.
@@DanSuzuki thanks for the reply i appreciate it and its good to see you are reading the comments and listening to feedback.
the linear mode is designed to just reduce the peaks of the power output, i guess some people just prefer to have the wheelbase go crazy when they hit a bump and really feel it kick, linear mode is designed to reduce those impacts so the feedback does not spike suddenly. i think ite better to have that option rather than have no option at all right?
i have not driven the SC2 so i cant compare them like you can but it sounds like the SC2 gives a much more raw feedback, it probably feels more active in the hands and it probably comes down to what settings you use on that device for example did you know the simucube ''force reconstruction filter'' in the settings does to same job as the fanatec ''interpolation filter''.
something like this setting being very different on both bases can drastically effect how they feel different.
anyway... appreciate the reply, as fanatec owners ofcourse we just want to help you feel what we feel so you dont have a bad impression that we dont see, hope that makes sense.
@@jinx20001 Thanks for the explanation! I definitely appreciate all the feedback :) I will try everything again with your settings and take that into account in Part 4 of the series. The FFB itself on the Fanatec and Simucube 2 is not really that different to be honest. I find the SC2 less prone to oscillations but that's about the biggest difference. The VRS is the one that is the "odd one out" - the FFB is much "rawer" than SC2 and DD2 - but that's probably because you basically have no filters there at all at the moment 😅 It's not a bad thing - it's just very different, some will like it, some won't. Again, I hope this review doesn't feel like "yo, this base is shit" - I really liked the FFB it gives me, and now I also know there is some headroom in FFB strength!
@@DanSuzuki thankyou mate, ill be watching. just one last tip... if you reduce the interpolation filter to 0 on fanatec that is suppose to give you the ''raw'' feedback from the game, it can be pretty noisy and grainy feeling because it is ofcourse raw feedback but maybe you can compare that to the VRS and see if that is what you are feeling with that base.
happy racing buddy.
@@jinx20001 Linear mode kills the force feedback due to g force loading while cornering. It is not because some want an active wheel, but your wheel should become harder to hold with increasing cornering forces. Don't speak as of all Podium users agree that everything is ok, but only the QR is terrible.
You're quick release has more play then most mine almost has none keep in mind there are variances you should order another one and check because you may get one without as much movement lol seems like you didn't even turn on torque mode lol you need to flip the switch lol doesn't seem as violent as I'm used to with the dd1 and dd2 I'm not joking your dd2 should be putting out way more power then what it is lol my dd2 goes more crazy then your dd2 talk to fanstex tell them because you have a very weak looking dd2 me my dd1 at 100 percent is so jerky and just tons of detail you should really check with fanatec as one thing when comapring to the sport the fanatec felt just about as strong as that one so yeah and the dd2 is very strong people compare these all of the time and yeah the dd2 should be kerning you around a bit more what you were feeling or what it looked like was like my dd1 at 10nm nit 20 nm dd2 I saw 1 other youtubrr have a power issue he knew it should of been stronger so he contacted fanstec they sent him a new one and rven serviced his old one and he said the one they sent is way better much stronger as it should be but for real brotha when something doesn't add up or doesn't feel right that's when you reach out and ask them about it lol 20nm is 20nm it should feel like 20nm regardless and if it doesn't then there is an issue and illl tell you right now the max you were getting was like 10nm I'm wondering if you even flipped it into torque mode or not but if you did then def contact them and get a new base sent out to you man you will be very surprised
I had dd1 and sc2 pro. And I had the impression that it was dd1 that felt stronger (20 vs 25 nm). DD1 is much faster when it comes to acceleration it is on the sc2 ultimate level
You need to turn linearity off that is why it feels weak...
Can you hang off with the next review till I have saved for the vrs dd. Dont want to have cash but the vrs has sold out. Only mention this cause of the spoiler dropped at the end of this vid. Just give me 5 months. 🤑
100% FFB feels weaker than the other comparable bases is because you enabled Linear Mode which Cuts the Peak Output of the Motor to it's Holding Force, which is 20Nm for the DD2. So you lose 5Nm when you enable that setting and therefore it feels weaker. Also with LIN OFF imo it feels way better...
But 20Nm is what the VRS does as well, and the VRS feels much stronger.
He also set the force FEI and FOR to 80% and Not 100%
@@HordyH Yeah that's another reason why it feels weaker, FOR has to be 100 ALWAYS! FEI at 80 is fine, that Filter does not reduce FFB strength but only softens the Signals (same for INT btw)
@@DanSuzuki I am not sure to what the DD2 or DD1 are limited to, but my DD1 when lineair mode is on, basically has zero forces during corners. In my opinion it is ridiculous that the default setting is on, they only did that because the base oscillates like crazy if you don't hold the wheel firmly. Fanatec never actually adressed the issue, just put a bandaid over it.
My csw 2.5 has less flex than the dd1 Base
100% in driver and Game??? No way... Going corner with one hand... i tested ist with the DD 1
Do you have the torque key in?
And with 100% ffb ingame u have clipping
EDIT: deaktivate LIN Mode it cuts the FFB
and then you dont have the forcefeedback Strength (FOR) and the FFb intensity (FEI) at 100!!!!
turn this parameters and u wont drive that easy!
Of course :) yeah it’s not ideal because of the clipping - but it’s a good workout 😅 Keep in mind the wheel I use is very big (310mm diameter) - with a small rim like the Fanatec formula rim it would definitely much tougher. Been driving 100% for a few weeks now so I got used to it quite a bit :)
@@DanSuzuki read My edited comment again
Ich habe ja bei deinem iracing Video schon gesagt das es keine 100% sein können. Jetzt wissen wa warum ;-)
@@HordyH Interesting, with LIN off the base didnt really feel good to me and with FEI on 100 that thing is close to unusable because of the oscillations/noise (see the twitch clip close to the end). But that's jusut my opinion, only because I don't like it that much doesnt mean that you can't like your DD1 :-)
@@DanSuzuki ich will nicht Fanatec verteidigen oder so, mir geht es darum das es nunmal keine 100% ffb sind. Also sollte man das nicht behaupten. Außerdem bekommt man das oszillieren mit der Dämpfung weg.
Also wenn du sagst das du 100% eingestellt hast solltest du das auch machen. Probiere es mal und du wirst nicht mehr so locker fahren.
WIE GESAGT ICH WILL NICHT HATEN
Tight first (a bit) the gold nut - insert the wheel all the way in tight the rest of the way the gold nut = 0 flex or 0.5 if you want to flex your muscle:) c'mon is 2021 that flex problem was so sept 2019
You can not really avoid flex when you compress a rubber to tighten something. Rubber remains rubber - let's just face it, that Quick Release is garbage, then don't work on a new one because the current one is so great ;-)
@@DanSuzuki I got 3 wheels and none flex like yours in the vid and i'm sure i grip it with more force then you. Event if i put my mind to do it and really want to make it flex is like 10% of your flex. Try mount it like i say it in the comment. Or better just look at this guy ruclips.net/video/u2slxjJBcZA/видео.html
Like I said in the video - I tried the Z-Ring without big success. It's just bad compared to a proper QR like the SC one or the Xero Play. It's interesting that you know how hard I grip my wheels :)
@@DanSuzuki Judging from your hands muscle and stature :) anyway sorry to hear your have flex but is not a big problems since you have 2 more dd's
@@silentp401 yeah like I said in the video it’s not really an issue you notice while driving - I just think a 1500€ wheelbase should have a better QR