Measured total current in part 3 - it only draws 0.4amps now!!! With a 5000mAh battery that would last 10 hours!!! The original unmodded Nomad has a rating of 9V 3.5W = 0.39 amps. So it's very close to the original amount of current drawn by the original screen. I guess the other plus is it shouldnt fail from an overheated TR201 moving forward. You should check out his excellent channel here:- ruclips.net/channel/UCEHkvZV6pB6uw-NSmGsM-kw His recent awesome Sega 32x repair:- ruclips.net/video/voECR9LqCzA/видео.html Dennis van den Broek on Twitter:- twitter.com/PointerFunction
21:57 Lots of material here for another "rude remix" vid. lol Good vid, though. ;) Using the DC-DC on the LCD board is a good idea. I'd be a bit worried at drawing close to 2 Amps from it, but the ~1 Amp for the screen + Nomad shouldn't be a problem. I've used those same boards where they're designed to run from 12V, removed the unneeded cap and switching reg, and just power them from 5V. The only thing I did find then is that the screen had a tiny bit of noise on it, so it's best to keep the input inductor and cap if it has one (or add an inductor to the 5V input). It's a real shame they don't generally break out the RGB pins on these small boards, as I think the AMT630 can handle RGB, Component, and even VGA refresh rates. Or maybe that was the slightly larger chip. Can't remember now. I have some source code for some of the Mstar and Realtek chips, which was originally an effort to write some custom FW for doing Game Gear / Nomad / Lynx screen mods, and remove the mildly annoying "AV" text when you power it up. But then I did that LCD board with HDMI etc. One day I might actually finish it. lol
Yes, it would be nice to replace the driver board - just to get rid of that AV1 lol. But it could be driven properly then too - ie. from the RGB rather than middleman of composite to the SPI or whatever interface it uses to drive the display there. I tested using 5v bypass and using the DC 2 DC and I think the diagonal lines still appeared either way. No sure if it's noise from the Nomad or just due to the poor composite signal.
Thanks for making these videos! Used them as a guide for the one I've just acquired. Great help on the wiring for the buck converter, also removed TR201. I've found that it draws 480-530mA @ 9V (4.5 watts!) from the battery pack terminals with a cartridge installed. De-soldered the original LCD's driver IC, dropped ~20-30mA, but still not as low as yours. Now that I think about it though, I've installed a NOR gate to add reset functionality with the Start/Mode buttons (worth looking into), so that accounts for some additional draw. I'll probably swap it for a single input surface mount variant at some point. Anyway, thanks again!
Dumb question since I'm not the most fluent in electronics would you be able to put a 5000 mah battery into the original battery pack if you didn't want to do an internal mod?
Thoroughly enjoyed every minute of that video, Gadget. Excellent stuff! It's great to see your enthusiasm for the Nomad - it's infectious. I especially like the bit around the 43-minute mark, where you're so happy to get the screen protector in place you make sure it's good and stuck down hard ... Anyway, I'm glad it worked out in the end.
Very clever to use the DC TO DC on the LCD module to power the Nomad. I wish I would have thought of that years ago when I replaced my regulator and screen. Nicely done.
You are absolutely the bloodiest smartest person that is on RUclips. I have looked at 100+ video's to fix my Nomad and you where that only one that addressed the same issue that I was having. Everyone else kept telling me that it was the voltage regulator, or the caps where bad and so on. But when you had the same problem that I had with the power port. You crushed it. My battery pack would not work also until I took apart the the Jack and fixed it. Then resoldered it back on the PCB and I worked. Thank you so much for help all of us with your great videos. I am very glad Dennis sent you a Nomad.
Great video ! , i love the techniques of fault diagnosis very crafty! Your screen replacement reminds me of what i have been working on and uploaded lately and thats screen replacements for PSP also PSPGO its difficult to see past scratches or damage on the visual so i can totally relate to ordering new glass. Looking forward to part 3 ! THUMBS UP !
I've never heard of the Nomad before, but this is a great couple of videos.Including the rushing popping the screen but we all do these daft things, at least you didn't damage the plastic case. Good job on turning that basket case back into a working system, and the guy that sent you that stuff is a very decent person so thank you to them too.
Great content Gadget, I haven`t done much with handhelds myself but did wonder what implications pulling psu power from a display board would have. I suppose its not just any old display board, its a modern board obviously capable of providing both. I wasn`t worried about current at all, more interference. Great utilisation of a modern component to the max. I never get tired of your endeavours, pure GOLD!
Thanks =D Yes, I did worry about the DC 2 DC (or any other - eg. Recom) interfering with the Nomad, but it doesn't! The LCD screen has some noise that I spotted when testing with 5v only (eg. bypassing the DC 2 DC), and that noise does not appear on the AV output. Sound is perfect either way. I think the DC 2 DC affects these screens in general, it needs a cap and inductor of the correct size to filer it out. I talk about that in part 3 briefly towards the end.
i look forward to part 3, i've wanted one of these systems for years so it's fascinating seeing what mods can be done and problems to look out for in them :D
Cheers =D They are lovely systems, wish I had bought one sooner now! I think there's a misconception that these could be hard to repair - I think they are pretty simple, especially when you can get spares from Model 2 boards, and replacement composite screen & glass etc.
what an amazing project! Next time it might be easier to wash all the plastics in the sink before assembly! i think you were pretty keen to get it working!
Yes, the problem there is with the existing "in series" diode it drops the input by 0.7v, and I guess they didn't want that drain on the battery. What you could do is a simple mod to fit an internal fuse, and reverse mount a diode between the 9v and grounds. That way the fuse would blow if ever reversed polarity is fed in either way.
Great bit of work you've done there mate. Ending the video with Road Rash has brought on a wee bought of nostaliga (happens quite often watching your vids, lol). In the early ninties, on a weekend duty in the Guardroom, the Sega would be on for the whole 24 hours and Road Rash was all we had to play...stagging on, quaffing tea nato and endless road rage. Happier days they were indeed. Having a solidarity chuckle with you too....when it comes to humongous 'brain farts' it seems like I'm in good company - and you managed to pull it off without swearing too! Better man than I am :) Cheers man...until the next one!
I was worried it might generate noise on the sound or video, but it seems OK. There is still a bit of noise on the LCD though as I talk about in part 3. I think the DC 2 DC does create some noise on the LCD - but via the AV port its perfect. It's also the same with or without the Nomad PCBs connected, so it's not a case of the DC 2 DC being affected by the Nomad. They are cheap screens used for reverse parking on cars I think.
So the big pad where the old regulator on the nomad would sit on would basically just be a ground? I just acquired a nomad and like yours it is missing the regulator and the pad that was supposed to be there, seems like somebody just yanked it out. The three pins on the board are still intact though, can I just take a new regulator and solder three pins to the three pins on the board or since it's missing the pad underneath do I have to solder the tab of the new regulator to a ground somewhere on the board?
Yes, the tab is grounded I think. Best to find an area of the ground plane nearby, scratch that off - solder the tab there, route the other 3 connections via wires to where they normally go on the regulator. If you don't mount the tab to a large piece of the ground it will overheat in no time!
Thank you so much for this great video. I have the same LCD model with the XL1509-5.0e1 dc-dc converter. I would like to modify my Sega Nomad with the USB 5v mod but I am not sure if that is possible with your mod of the LCD, I mean: providing 9v-14v in the LCD and feed back to the PCB console with the 5v output. Thanks in advance.
Gadgetuk makes me so happy and sad at the same time. 🤯 Happy because he is saving this Sega Nomad. 😍 But sad because he just reminded me that i got 2 broken ones i need to repair. 😨
brilliant job it looks amazing... dont beat yourself up we all have off days ( you should see some of my epic fails ) the main thing is you got it working and in one piece. :)
@@GadgetUK164 loved it Gadge. Cheap (free caravan and travel there and back), just food and taxi back from Brid. Boss takes us there and back, and we dropped on him being able to drop us off at the coast for the day. £10.30 taxi back to the van. Also, found a great retro console / collectorama shop not far from Bridlington center, great prices for the coast (crystal gb color for 30 notes, CIB 2600 games for a tenner etc.). When I've realised I'm back home am gonna give them a shout out on Twitter. No website, just phone and a shop lol.
IIRC there is a switchless region mod you can do, and what might be a fun project is tracking down a battery pack for it and replacing the NiMH batteries with lithium and a proper charger for it :)
Why was this system not more known in the UK? I remember the Game gear but not this! Surely this would of sold well here!..or was it and i somehow missed it. You had me in stitches with the screen protector fail, I'd of felt the exact same.
The Sega Nomad is looking great Chris. Surprised the system only draws 260mA (without original screen), I thought it was going to draw more even without the screen. The original TS115 voltage regulator is rated at around 500mA, It must have been a catastrophic fault to have burnt up the TS115 voltage regulator.
Cheers =D I was surprised it only drew 260mA too! I've seen a few threads and videos where those regulators burned up - I suspect it's just because its a super small component, and as you will see in part 3 the Genesis / Megadrive 2 PSUs output up to 14V. That's a lot of extra heat dumped into that board by that tiny regulator, it's no wonder they fail imo. Using batteries is safer due to the voltage being 9V or less (but no reverse polarity protection there).
Hey does anyone know where I can buy the flex ribbon cable that connects both sides together? I tried to get one from china twice and I guess they were different because it did not work. :(
Hi! I just bought the same screen and when I installed it the screen is blinking black. The only thing I didn't do was remove the original screen in case the mod doesn't work. My question is: Is it necessary to remove the original screen for the new lcd screen to work? I'll appreciate your answer. Thank you
I cannot be 100% sure, but I suspect the old screen is drawing too much power whilst the new screen is powered too. I recently found if the voltage level drops too low on a battery pack I have here, it behaves exactly as you are experiencing there - screen flashes on and off, but you can see its booting etc. That leads me to think the LCD screen isn't happy when the voltage drops due to insufficent power.
@@GadgetUK164 Thank you very much. my fear is to remove the original screen (it has a damp stain) and it won't work. That is why I would like to be sure. If I connect the new lcd screen externally (video / voltage cables) it works without problems.
I thought i was well versed in retro gaming as i grew up with this stuff being a 70s child.I never knew about the nomad and i was sega over Nintendo,funny old world.This would be great with a sd card somehow fitted in.Was this sold in the U.K?
How come every video I watch of someone doing the LCD modification, yours included, the screen has a strip missing from the video? its narrow vertically and your video doesnt look full screen because of this.
These "parking screens" are marginally larger than the original screen. I agree it's not a 1:1 replacement and that could put lots of people off. In this case, there was no functioning screen with it, it made sense to fit what I could. I use it regularly and most games fit OK in the space available, just a few where overscan etc isn't as visible as it should be.
Regarding the PAL/US carts, PAL carts go in US machines, US carts don't go in PAL machines. Japanese carts don't fit either machine, and vice versa. Some games are universal ROMs, others are region locked, Hence why you need to expand the cartridge slot when you Switchmod a Megadrive/Genesis.
Damn now I want to do the screen mod on one of mine. I have been putting it off just to keep all original, but I have one that's getting poor. Guess that's the candidate.
Yes, I talk about USB in part 3. You could go that way, but I wanted to keep the 9V DC input from the battery pack and the DC jack. If you want to feed 5v from any USB cable / power bank, just feed it into the 5v pin on the AV socket! That way no mod is required at all, just a custom cable.
Great video as always. I’ve got an issue with my Nomad it gets as far as just after the TMSS message then resets and carries on over and over (happened before I did the lcd mod as well). It’s definitely the top board as the bottom one works fine on another working to board. video link here ruclips.net/video/OeNMARmd19M/видео.html
As per my comment on the video - I would start by recapping it. It could be noise on a supply rail due to the caps, or the reset circuit repeat firing due to cap and leakage.
@@GadgetUK164 turned out to be a fried 315-5684. Once the 315 was removed the system works fine, but with no sound. I managed to get sound with a spare standard triple bypass board, but after running the MDFourier test it seems way off normal (although it sounds ok to my limited ears), MobiusStrip helped me out with that bit. Anyway, I've ordered a proper Nomad Bypass from Mobius which should fix everything in one go, which I plan on making a video on.
eso es un display de coche llamado gps y eso se alimenta con 12 vol el nomad se alimenta con 9 vol si no modificas ese display de gps muere el nomad por que no aguantara el nomad 12 vol
ruclips.net/video/sSuXRXXp2o4/видео.html&feature=share&fbclid=IwAR2qEjIioPOMEiivAswGHN4W8SL-BNHqKE7g_y78Jy_XiaRv2SJ5i0trQS0 nomad sega revives with sega dreamcast PART1
I might do at some point, the reason I haven't is I just use the Everdrive most of the time and games from any region "just work", and its already set to 60hz so I didn't see a need.
Measured total current in part 3 - it only draws 0.4amps now!!! With a 5000mAh battery that would last 10 hours!!! The original unmodded Nomad has a rating of 9V 3.5W = 0.39 amps. So it's very close to the original amount of current drawn by the original screen. I guess the other plus is it shouldnt fail from an overheated TR201 moving forward.
You should check out his excellent channel here:- ruclips.net/channel/UCEHkvZV6pB6uw-NSmGsM-kw
His recent awesome Sega 32x repair:- ruclips.net/video/voECR9LqCzA/видео.html
Dennis van den Broek on Twitter:- twitter.com/PointerFunction
21:57
Lots of material here for another "rude remix" vid. lol
Good vid, though. ;)
Using the DC-DC on the LCD board is a good idea. I'd be a bit worried at drawing close to 2 Amps from it, but the ~1 Amp for the screen + Nomad shouldn't be a problem.
I've used those same boards where they're designed to run from 12V, removed the unneeded cap and switching reg, and just power them from 5V. The only thing I did find then is that the screen had a tiny bit of noise on it, so it's best to keep the input inductor and cap if it has one (or add an inductor to the 5V input).
It's a real shame they don't generally break out the RGB pins on these small boards, as I think the AMT630 can handle RGB, Component, and even VGA refresh rates. Or maybe that was the slightly larger chip. Can't remember now.
I have some source code for some of the Mstar and Realtek chips, which was originally an effort to write some custom FW for doing Game Gear / Nomad / Lynx screen mods, and remove the mildly annoying "AV" text when you power it up.
But then I did that LCD board with HDMI etc. One day I might actually finish it. lol
Yes, it would be nice to replace the driver board - just to get rid of that AV1 lol. But it could be driven properly then too - ie. from the RGB rather than middleman of composite to the SPI or whatever interface it uses to drive the display there. I tested using 5v bypass and using the DC 2 DC and I think the diagonal lines still appeared either way. No sure if it's noise from the Nomad or just due to the poor composite signal.
Thanks for making these videos! Used them as a guide for the one I've just acquired. Great help on the wiring for the buck converter, also removed TR201.
I've found that it draws 480-530mA @ 9V (4.5 watts!) from the battery pack terminals with a cartridge installed. De-soldered the original LCD's driver IC, dropped ~20-30mA, but still not as low as yours. Now that I think about it though, I've installed a NOR gate to add reset functionality with the Start/Mode buttons (worth looking into), so that accounts for some additional draw. I'll probably swap it for a single input surface mount variant at some point.
Anyway, thanks again!
Dumb question since I'm not the most fluent in electronics would you be able to put a 5000 mah battery into the original battery pack if you didn't want to do an internal mod?
Thoroughly enjoyed every minute of that video, Gadget. Excellent stuff! It's great to see your enthusiasm for the Nomad - it's infectious. I especially like the bit around the 43-minute mark, where you're so happy to get the screen protector in place you make sure it's good and stuck down hard ... Anyway, I'm glad it worked out in the end.
Cheers =D LOL! Yep, I made treble sure it was well stuck down, then..... doh!!!!
Very clever to use the DC TO DC on the LCD module to power the Nomad. I wish I would have thought of that years ago when I replaced my regulator and screen. Nicely done.
Thanks =D
You know I'd never heard of a sega nomad until part 1 😳
Same here, now I want one!
You are absolutely the bloodiest smartest person that is on RUclips. I have looked at 100+ video's to fix my Nomad and you where that only one that addressed the same issue that I was having. Everyone else kept telling me that it was the voltage regulator, or the caps where bad and so on. But when you had the same problem that I had with the power port. You crushed it. My battery pack would not work also until I took apart the the Jack and fixed it. Then resoldered it back on the PCB and I worked. Thank you so much for help all of us with your great videos. I am very glad Dennis sent you a Nomad.
Thanks!! Very kind of you to say that =D Really glad you fixed your Nomad!!!!
Great video ! , i love the techniques of fault diagnosis very crafty! Your screen replacement reminds me of what i have been working on and uploaded lately and thats screen replacements for PSP also PSPGO its difficult to see past scratches or damage on the visual so i can totally relate to ordering new glass. Looking forward to part 3 ! THUMBS UP !
Thanks mate =D Look forward to seeing more about those PSP screens!
I'll add my +1 for the PSP screen!
I've never heard of the Nomad before, but this is a great couple of videos.Including the rushing popping the screen but we all do these daft things, at least you didn't damage the plastic case. Good job on turning that basket case back into a working system, and the guy that sent you that stuff is a very decent person so thank you to them too.
Great repair and restore! Also, interesting to see mistakes and your troubleshooting process, thanks for posting
Thanks =D
Great content Gadget, I haven`t done much with handhelds myself but did wonder what implications pulling psu power from a display board would have. I suppose its not just any old display board, its a modern board obviously capable of providing both. I wasn`t worried about current at all, more interference. Great utilisation of a modern component to the max. I never get tired of your endeavours, pure GOLD!
Thanks =D Yes, I did worry about the DC 2 DC (or any other - eg. Recom) interfering with the Nomad, but it doesn't! The LCD screen has some noise that I spotted when testing with 5v only (eg. bypassing the DC 2 DC), and that noise does not appear on the AV output. Sound is perfect either way. I think the DC 2 DC affects these screens in general, it needs a cap and inductor of the correct size to filer it out. I talk about that in part 3 briefly towards the end.
Looking forward to part 3 Chris it's fascinating watching you fix these issues and get them working again
Thanks =D
i look forward to part 3, i've wanted one of these systems for years so it's fascinating seeing what mods can be done and problems to look out for in them :D
Cheers =D They are lovely systems, wish I had bought one sooner now! I think there's a misconception that these could be hard to repair - I think they are pretty simple, especially when you can get spares from Model 2 boards, and replacement composite screen & glass etc.
what an amazing project! Next time it might be easier to wash all the plastics in the sink before assembly! i think you were pretty keen to get it working!
Thanks =D Yes, absolutely the easiest way to clean these is all at once in the sink.
Thank you, GadgetUK164, much appreciated repair, & mod of the Sega Nomad. Nice recapping work.
The one missing a pad using a wire for nice fix. I understand how you felt when you powered it up last video and it worked. What a relief.
I wished the battery terminal had a reverse polarity protection diode.
Yes, the problem there is with the existing "in series" diode it drops the input by 0.7v, and I guess they didn't want that drain on the battery. What you could do is a simple mod to fit an internal fuse, and reverse mount a diode between the 9v and grounds. That way the fuse would blow if ever reversed polarity is fed in either way.
Great bit of work you've done there mate. Ending the video with Road Rash has brought on a wee bought of nostaliga (happens quite often watching your vids, lol). In the early ninties, on a weekend duty in the Guardroom, the Sega would be on for the whole 24 hours and Road Rash was all we had to play...stagging on, quaffing tea nato and endless road rage. Happier days they were indeed.
Having a solidarity chuckle with you too....when it comes to humongous 'brain farts' it seems like I'm in good company - and you managed to pull it off without swearing too! Better man than I am :)
Cheers man...until the next one!
=D
love watching these videos from you, always learn something interesting I can apply in the future
Thanks =D
Just recently discovered your channel mate. Brilliant stuff.
Cheers =D
Great video, Gadget! Looking forward to part 3!
Cheers =D
Brilliant fix making use of the LCD DC-DC converter!
I was worried it might generate noise on the sound or video, but it seems OK. There is still a bit of noise on the LCD though as I talk about in part 3. I think the DC 2 DC does create some noise on the LCD - but via the AV port its perfect. It's also the same with or without the Nomad PCBs connected, so it's not a case of the DC 2 DC being affected by the Nomad. They are cheap screens used for reverse parking on cars I think.
really enjoying this series, thanks!
So the big pad where the old regulator on the nomad would sit on would basically just be a ground? I just acquired a nomad and like yours it is missing the regulator and the pad that was supposed to be there, seems like somebody just yanked it out. The three pins on the board are still intact though, can I just take a new regulator and solder three pins to the three pins on the board or since it's missing the pad underneath do I have to solder the tab of the new regulator to a ground somewhere on the board?
Yes, the tab is grounded I think. Best to find an area of the ground plane nearby, scratch that off - solder the tab there, route the other 3 connections via wires to where they normally go on the regulator. If you don't mount the tab to a large piece of the ground it will overheat in no time!
Got it, thanks for the reply you saved me from messing up another regulator👍
Cheers gadget been waiting for this
=D
Thank you so much for this great video. I have the same LCD model with the XL1509-5.0e1 dc-dc converter. I would like to modify my Sega Nomad with the USB 5v mod but I am not sure if that is possible with your mod of the LCD, I mean: providing 9v-14v in the LCD and feed back to the PCB console with the 5v output. Thanks in advance.
Great stuff, looking forward to Part 3 :-)
Cheers!
Aaah part 2 at last, got my coffee and bickies feet up lets go
Gadgetuk makes me so happy and sad at the same time. 🤯 Happy because he is saving this Sega Nomad. 😍 But sad because he just reminded me that i got 2 broken ones i need to repair. 😨
Now is the time!!! =D
brilliant job it looks amazing... dont beat yourself up we all have off days ( you should see some of my epic fails ) the main thing is you got it working and in one piece. :)
Thanks =D Screen cover is re-replaced in part 3 lol (twice) =D
Where did you get that little hand drill tool @21:37 can someone post a link please or just note the name thanks
Search eBay for PCB Hand Drill!
Screen looks great
At least having something good to watch will soften the blow of being back home later!
I hope you had a good time! There's always next time to look forward too!
@@GadgetUK164 loved it Gadge. Cheap (free caravan and travel there and back), just food and taxi back from Brid. Boss takes us there and back, and we dropped on him being able to drop us off at the coast for the day. £10.30 taxi back to the van.
Also, found a great retro console / collectorama shop not far from Bridlington center, great prices for the coast (crystal gb color for 30 notes, CIB 2600 games for a tenner etc.).
When I've realised I'm back home am gonna give them a shout out on Twitter. No website, just phone and a shop lol.
IIRC there is a switchless region mod you can do, and what might be a fun project is tracking down a battery pack for it and replacing the NiMH batteries with lithium and a proper charger for it :)
I was going to adapt my PIC based mod to do the same thing!
@@GadgetUK164 looking forward to seeing what you come up with :)
Why was this system not more known in the UK? I remember the Game gear but not this! Surely this would of sold well here!..or was it and i somehow missed it. You had me in stitches with the screen protector fail, I'd of felt the exact same.
Haha, yep - that screen protector was really annoying lol! Got there in the end!
how do I bypass sleep mode on flat tv on power board tv used as a shop light but turns off after some time
No idea =/
The Sega Nomad is looking great Chris. Surprised the system only draws 260mA (without original screen), I thought it was going to draw more even without the screen. The original TS115 voltage regulator is rated at around 500mA, It must have been a catastrophic fault to have burnt up the TS115 voltage regulator.
Cheers =D I was surprised it only drew 260mA too! I've seen a few threads and videos where those regulators burned up - I suspect it's just because its a super small component, and as you will see in part 3 the Genesis / Megadrive 2 PSUs output up to 14V. That's a lot of extra heat dumped into that board by that tiny regulator, it's no wonder they fail imo. Using batteries is safer due to the voltage being 9V or less (but no reverse polarity protection there).
Great video very useful! Do you know where we can buy the 3D printed screen frame?
Dennis might be able to sell you one - see his Twitter and RUclips links in the description.
Hey does anyone know where I can buy the flex ribbon cable that connects both sides together? I tried to get one from china twice and I guess they were different because it did not work. :(
Hi! I just bought the same screen and when I installed it the screen is blinking black. The only thing I didn't do was remove the original screen in case the mod doesn't work. My question is: Is it necessary to remove the original screen for the new lcd screen to work? I'll appreciate your answer. Thank you
I cannot be 100% sure, but I suspect the old screen is drawing too much power whilst the new screen is powered too. I recently found if the voltage level drops too low on a battery pack I have here, it behaves exactly as you are experiencing there - screen flashes on and off, but you can see its booting etc. That leads me to think the LCD screen isn't happy when the voltage drops due to insufficent power.
@@GadgetUK164 Thank you very much. my fear is to remove the original screen (it has a damp stain) and it won't work. That is why I would like to be sure. If I connect the new lcd screen externally (video / voltage cables) it works without problems.
UNGHHHHH .... THIS IS NIGHTMARE!!!!!one!one!!!
LOL! So embarrasing lol! I well and trully messed it up! Wait until you see how the replacement glass goes in part 2!
i can watch your channel for hours. i do .... actually...
Thanks lol, very much appreciated =D
I thought i was well versed in retro gaming as i grew up with this stuff being a 70s child.I never knew about the nomad and i was sega over Nintendo,funny old world.This would be great with a sd card somehow fitted in.Was this sold in the U.K?
North America only! Shame it was sold in europe, could have done really well I think!
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods Definitely,i would love now,never mind then.
How come every video I watch of someone doing the LCD modification, yours included, the screen has a strip missing from the video? its narrow vertically and your video doesnt look full screen because of this.
These "parking screens" are marginally larger than the original screen. I agree it's not a 1:1 replacement and that could put lots of people off. In this case, there was no functioning screen with it, it made sense to fit what I could. I use it regularly and most games fit OK in the space available, just a few where overscan etc isn't as visible as it should be.
Regarding the PAL/US carts, PAL carts go in US machines, US carts don't go in PAL machines. Japanese carts don't fit either machine, and vice versa.
Some games are universal ROMs, others are region locked, Hence why you need to expand the cartridge slot when you Switchmod a Megadrive/Genesis.
Thanks for the info!
A M A Z I N G
Cheers mate =D
Damn now I want to do the screen mod on one of mine. I have been putting it off just to keep all original, but I have one that's getting poor. Guess that's the candidate.
Controversial thought - power from USB power bank/transformer which will give you 5V easily but also many will source 1.5A comfortably.
Yes, I talk about USB in part 3. You could go that way, but I wanted to keep the 9V DC input from the battery pack and the DC jack. If you want to feed 5v from any USB cable / power bank, just feed it into the 5v pin on the AV socket! That way no mod is required at all, just a custom cable.
❤️
Great video as always. I’ve got an issue with my Nomad it gets as far as just after the TMSS message then resets and carries on over and over (happened before I did the lcd mod as well). It’s definitely the top board as the bottom one works fine on another working to board. video link here ruclips.net/video/OeNMARmd19M/видео.html
Thanks =D It could be a dirty cart slot, but also a damaged trace from capacitor leakage? Beyond that you may have a faulty IC somewhere.
As per my comment on the video - I would start by recapping it. It could be noise on a supply rail due to the caps, or the reset circuit repeat firing due to cap and leakage.
@@GadgetUK164 turned out to be a fried 315-5684. Once the 315 was removed the system works fine, but with no sound. I managed to get sound with a spare standard triple bypass board, but after running the MDFourier test it seems way off normal (although it sounds ok to my limited ears), MobiusStrip helped me out with that bit. Anyway, I've ordered a proper Nomad Bypass from Mobius which should fix everything in one go, which I plan on making a video on.
eso es un display de coche llamado gps y eso se alimenta con 12 vol el nomad se alimenta con 9 vol si no modificas ese display de gps muere el nomad por que no aguantara el nomad 12 vol
No, the display can be powered up to 12v, but works perfectly at 9v. It uses a DC2DC convertor.
ruclips.net/video/sSuXRXXp2o4/видео.html&feature=share&fbclid=IwAR2qEjIioPOMEiivAswGHN4W8SL-BNHqKE7g_y78Jy_XiaRv2SJ5i0trQS0 nomad sega revives with sega dreamcast PART1
Have you every wanted to do a mod for your Nomad to make it Region free? I would love it if you did.
I might do at some point, the reason I haven't is I just use the Everdrive most of the time and games from any region "just work", and its already set to 60hz so I didn't see a need.