Cooling Fan Current Draw Testing Pico 4425A
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
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Thanks for watching :)
Steve
* Disclaimer: Neither Simply Diagnostics nor Steve Scott accept any liability for any loss, injury or damage to any person, property or vehicle as a result of techniques, tools or methods shown on this channel. Always follow the manufacturers instructions and abide by all local and national laws regarding safe working and environmental hazards*
Brilliant channel and a new find for me. A PO495 code on my Peugeot 508 RXH brought me to the first live video in this series, so I had to watch the second and final part to find out what happened. It's heartening to know that there's real diagnostics work being done out there. The cha-ching part replacement bingo too many garages play is hard on the wallet and a waste of everyone's time.
Great stuff - keep it up.
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍👍
Hi , great videos and enjoy to watch. When i was watching your video on battery drain on your van in is much quicker to uas a AMP HOUND to find to current through the fuse on test. The amp hound has built in software to calculate mV drop over fuse size and type to instantly display current. One you have used a amp hound you would not go back to the power probe fuse chart again. David
Great knowledge Steve keep it coming sir
Good day... Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Hello great video mate i have the same problem but mine i cant put that fuse it cut instantly and i disconnect the fan and the fan resister and the same happen any advice please?
Well mate but too late couldn’t watch live got too much on
Go a little solution when you’re cold it works in all weather conditions
You’ll have to warm yourself from inside
Have to consume plenty of white liquid stuff with at least 40 proof 😂
Thanks for the video mate great approach
What kind of tablet is that?
how do i contact you im having issues with my vxr.
You better go in and warm up before hypothermia sets in. 😂. Good explanation. Stay safe.
Your balls will disappear.
If you can take apart the module, you might see wet inside.
What's the spec for current with that fan running and the engine running? May be time for fan replacement.
It's on a 60amp fuse so I would expect around 20 amps, I checked with engine running and it was the same as the actuator test we ran.
Life's too short to be pulling modules apart and see what went wrong. I'll leave that to Ivan 👍
Your right if it's difficult to take it apart. Sometimes with intermittents it's worth the time to be sure.
How about tapping or banging on the module with the engine running and the fan on.....simulating vibration. Or heating it with a heat gun. We used to have a spray that would chill or freeze an object. Heat , vibration, and or cold can help find a problem.
@@SimplyDiagnostics Ivan was fixing Boat Electrics in the last Vid - he has enough water around him :) By this time he should be im FL already :)
I didn't really understand how you conclude that module is bad from those patterns. Was it to much values or something else
I don't show all the test steps I've done, this is deliberate to get people to ask great questions like yours 👍
We tested the integrity of the loom, the ability of the fan to run and the control circuits. The only part of the system that was an unknown was the control modules internals. If inputs are good, actuator is good, any failure can be reasonably put down to the bit in the middle or the fan controller. Given its location, the signs of water and the high failure rate of the part, it is reasonable to pin it as most probable cause.
I got it to fail off camera, tests confirmed it was the controller, it had a new module and has been fine since then 👍
@@SimplyDiagnostics Thak you for explanation, know you said it is cear
Temperature here in Indiana has been up and down 40° one day and 60° the next
afternoon
لسا ماخلصت هي طولت شكلا😄😄😄😤😤😤😥
I'm sorry but I can't translate this comment, I hope you enjoyed the video. Stay safe 👍
@@SimplyDiagnostics عندك وتس اب
Ha ha